where can i get new oil lines? i mean the black one that goes from the oil tank
to the oil pump and the clear one that goes from the oil tank to the crankcase
fitting on the back of the engine? can you buy them in lengths? if so what are
the diameters of each line?
isnt there a breather line that goes from the 2 stroke tank to the breather on
the back of the engine? i was told that line came off the engine and attached
nowhere. that the rd is the only one that has that line attached to the oil
tank. i am talking about the clear line.
Yes,there are no left handed threaded anything on an R5 to my knowledge and I've
oned one for 24 years now.
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, "rebelbugler" <rebelbugler@...> wrote:
>
> Just for the sake of clarity, are both the bolt and the nut a normal right
hand thread.....i.e. do both the bolt and nut get turned to the left to loosen?
Thanks
>
> --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, "Ed" <valiantwagonguy@> wrote:
> >
> > It's a normal right hand thread. I'd heat it with a propane torch and then
try to loosen it.Heat usually does the trick for me.
> >
> > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, "rebelbugler" <rebelbugler@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I am currently restoring my 72 R5C and have run into a snag with a frozen
bolt and nut in the push lever assembly. Currently, I'm soaking the parts in a
penetrating oil, in the hopes that it will help loosen things up. I don't want
to use undue force as the push lever assembly is tough to come by.
> > >
> > > Is the "special nut" a lock nut and designed to be loosened by turning in
a clock wise versus counter clockwise direction? The manual is silent on the
matter. Thanks
> > >
> >
>
Just for the sake of clarity, are both the bolt and the nut a normal right hand
thread.....i.e. do both the bolt and nut get turned to the left to loosen?
Thanks
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, "Ed" <valiantwagonguy@...> wrote:
>
> It's a normal right hand thread. I'd heat it with a propane torch and then try
to loosen it.Heat usually does the trick for me.
>
> --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, "rebelbugler" <rebelbugler@> wrote:
> >
> > I am currently restoring my 72 R5C and have run into a snag with a frozen
bolt and nut in the push lever assembly. Currently, I'm soaking the parts in a
penetrating oil, in the hopes that it will help loosen things up. I don't want
to use undue force as the push lever assembly is tough to come by.
> >
> > Is the "special nut" a lock nut and designed to be loosened by turning in a
clock wise versus counter clockwise direction? The manual is silent on the
matter. Thanks
> >
>
It's a normal right hand thread. I'd heat it with a propane torch and then try
to loosen it.Heat usually does the trick for me.
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, "rebelbugler" <rebelbugler@...> wrote:
>
> I am currently restoring my 72 R5C and have run into a snag with a frozen bolt
and nut in the push lever assembly. Currently, I'm soaking the parts in a
penetrating oil, in the hopes that it will help loosen things up. I don't want
to use undue force as the push lever assembly is tough to come by.
>
> Is the "special nut" a lock nut and designed to be loosened by turning in a
clock wise versus counter clockwise direction? The manual is silent on the
matter. Thanks
>
I am currently restoring my 72 R5C and have run into a snag with a frozen bolt
and nut in the push lever assembly. Currently, I'm soaking the parts in a
penetrating oil, in the hopes that it will help loosen things up. I don't want
to use undue force as the push lever assembly is tough to come by.
Is the "special nut" a lock nut and designed to be loosened by turning in a
clock wise versus counter clockwise direction? The manual is silent on the
matter. Thanks
Sounds great Ed! I'll have to stick with old pics of my R5 as it is
stripped down right now for a small renovation.
BTW, I liked the kitchen remodel pics in your album. I don't dare let my
wife see them though, I'll never get anything done!
Dave
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, "Ed" <valiantwagonguy@...>
wrote:
>
> I'd like to hold an online bike show for the group.The plan is to set
up a photobucket account just for this and when I have all the photos
entered I will post a link to a slide show.It will be a show only ,no
judging and will feature ALL our bikes from projects to finished restos
and everything in between.I will accept ONE (1) photo from each member
with a brief description(under 200 characters) that I can cut & paste
into the description box. At this point I'd like your opinions on
this.Please post your comments this week so I can start on this after
Thanksgiving (for those of you overseas,Thanksgiving is on this coming
Thursday 11/26 ) This is a sample slide show of a bike show in NY I went
to.
>
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/valiantwagonguy/NY%20VinMoto%20Sh\
ow%2008/?albumview=slideshow
> Thanks, Ed
>
I'd like to hold an online bike show for the group.The plan is to set up a
photobucket account just for this and when I have all the photos entered I will
post a link to a slide show.It will be a show only ,no judging and will feature
ALL our bikes from projects to finished restos and everything in between.I will
accept ONE (1) photo from each member with a brief description(under 200
characters) that I can cut & paste into the description box. At this point I'd
like your opinions on this.Please post your comments this week so I can start on
this after Thanksgiving (for those of you overseas,Thanksgiving is on this
coming Thursday 11/26 ) This is a sample slide show of a bike show in NY I went
to.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/valiantwagonguy/NY%20VinMoto%20Show%2008/\
?albumview=slideshow
Thanks, Ed
That's great Dan, I'm glad you didn't have to pay a small fortune for
them! That's always a bonus!!
Dave
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, d bauer <tiz_me22004@...> wrote:
>
> Dave, well ironic because i bought a set of rings "for next to
nothing" a few weeks back! thanks for getting back to me, i still
appreciate the help, Dan
>
Dave, well ironic because i bought a set of rings "for next to nothing" a few weeks back! thanks for getting back to me, i still appreciate the help, Dan
Dan,
My buddy just got back with me about the rings. Talk about a day late,
dollar short! He sold a bunch of his spare parts over the summer to help
finance his move, and (wouldn't you know it) he had a set of first over
rings and pistons that "went for next to nothing", as he put it.
Sorry, I know it doesn't help. He did suggest Speed and Sport, but
admitted that they are going to cost dearly from them. The originl
Yama-robbers!
Dave
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, d bauer <tiz_me22004@...> wrote:
>
> Worth checkign into for sure! Let me know when you know, danWI
>
> --- On Sun, 10/11/09, David S manfromtriumph@... wrote:
>
>
> From: David S manfromtriumph@...
> Subject: [yamaha-r5-group] Re: wanted: a pair of DS7 250cc rings 1st
over 54.25mm
> To: yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, October 11, 2009, 12:03 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have a friend in PA that has a very low mileage DS7, and a stash of
> parts. I'll check with him, once he gets moved into his new house, and
> see if he has any piston rings hoarded. He is a notorious parts whore
> (worse than me) and he always finds deals. Perry from the YDS group
> knows who I am talking about! LOL!
>
> Dave
> --- In yamaha-r5-group@ yahoogroups. com, "Ed" <valiantwagonguy@ ...>
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > NO! They are unique to that model and DS7's were only made 1 year
and
> not all that popular .Stick an R5 top end on it Dan.
> > --- In yamaha-r5-group@ yahoogroups. com, d bauer tiz_me22004@
wrote:
> > >
> > > Ed, just out of curiousity, are there other 54mm pistons in the
> yamaha line? DT1? also, will DS6 pistons work in the DS7 cylinder?
> thanks for the advice, danWI
> > >
> > > --- On Sun, 10/11/09, Ed valiantwagonguy@ wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Oversize DS7 pistons and rings are the hardest parts to get.There
> just aren't many out there and they will be expensive no matter where
> you get them. If you really need them you had better suck it up and
but
> the 80 dollar ones Dan. Ed
> > > .
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > > http://mail. yahoo.com
> > >
> >
>
I seem to remeber this conversation from last year. Did you check the
battery to see if the cold weather was killing it? That's all I can
think of that would keep it from starting when it gets cold.
If I suggested that last year and you checked it, I apologize for
repeating myself.
Dave
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Ludwig <xbattlesx@...>
wrote:
>
> so around this time last year when temps dropped below 55 degrees, my
> bike stopped working. I didn't think much of it (thought it was
> another problem), but now it's doing the same thing. Does anyone else
> have trouble starting in the cold?
>
> --
> Ludzeppelin Studios
> Kevin Ludwig
> cell: 484-995-7983
>
> This message is private and confidential. If you have received this
> message in error, please notify us and remove it from your system.
>
Your bike shouls start fine right down to temps as low at 10 above zero F mine
does.
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Ludwig <xbattlesx@...> wrote:
>
> so around this time last year when temps dropped below 55 degrees, my
> bike stopped working. I didn't think much of it (thought it was
> another problem), but now it's doing the same thing. Does anyone else
> have trouble starting in the cold?
>
> --
> Ludzeppelin Studios
> Kevin Ludwig
> cell: 484-995-7983
>
> This message is private and confidential. If you have received this
> message in error, please notify us and remove it from your system.
>
so around this time last year when temps dropped below 55 degrees, my
bike stopped working. I didn't think much of it (thought it was
another problem), but now it's doing the same thing. Does anyone else
have trouble starting in the cold?
--
Ludzeppelin Studios
Kevin Ludwig
cell: 484-995-7983
This message is private and confidential. If you have received this
message in error, please notify us and remove it from your system.
an ebayer is selling R5 rings for $14usd... i consider that a damn good price considering many folk think 50usd is "fair". i don't know this seller so take own risk. check here if interested:
Worth checkign into for sure! Let me know when you know, danWI
--- On Sun, 10/11/09, David S <manfromtriumph@...> wrote:
From: David S <manfromtriumph@...> Subject: [yamaha-r5-group] Re: wanted: a pair of DS7 250cc rings 1st over 54.25mm To: yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, October 11, 2009, 12:03 PM
I have a friend in PA that has a very low mileage DS7, and a stash of parts. I'll check with him, once he gets moved into his new house, and see if he has any piston rings hoarded. He is a notorious parts whore (worse than me) and he always finds deals. Perry from the YDS group knows who I am talking about! LOL!
Dave --- In yamaha-r5-group@ yahoogroups. com, "Ed" <valiantwagonguy@ ...> wrote: > > > NO! They are unique to that model and DS7's were only made 1 year and not all that popular .Stick an R5 top end on it Dan. > --- In yamaha-r5-group@ yahoogroups.
com, d bauer tiz_me22004@ wrote: > > > > Ed, just out of curiousity, are there other 54mm pistons in the yamaha line? DT1? also, will DS6 pistons work in the DS7 cylinder? thanks for the advice, danWI > > > > --- On Sun, 10/11/09, Ed valiantwagonguy@ wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Oversize DS7 pistons and rings are the hardest parts to get.There just aren't many out there and they will be expensive no matter where you get them. If you really need them you had better suck it up and but the 80 dollar ones Dan. Ed > > . > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Tired of
spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > > http://mail. yahoo.com > > >
I have a friend in PA that has a very low mileage DS7, and a stash of
parts. I'll check with him, once he gets moved into his new house, and
see if he has any piston rings hoarded. He is a notorious parts whore
(worse than me) and he always finds deals. Perry from the YDS group
knows who I am talking about! LOL!
Dave
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, "Ed" <valiantwagonguy@...>
wrote:
>
>
> NO! They are unique to that model and DS7's were only made 1 year and
not all that popular .Stick an R5 top end on it Dan.
> --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, d bauer tiz_me22004@ wrote:
> >
> > Ed, just out of curiousity, are there other 54mm pistons in the
yamaha line? DT1? also, will DS6 pistons work in the DS7 cylinder?
thanks for the advice, danWI
> >
> > --- On Sun, 10/11/09, Ed valiantwagonguy@ wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Oversize DS7 pistons and rings are the hardest parts to get.There
just aren't many out there and they will be expensive no matter where
you get them. If you really need them you had better suck it up and but
the 80 dollar ones Dan. Ed
> > .
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
NO! They are unique to that model and DS7's were only made 1 year and not all
that popular .Stick an R5 top end on it Dan.
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, d bauer <tiz_me22004@...> wrote:
>
> Ed, just out of curiousity, are there other 54mm pistons in the yamaha line?
DT1? also, will DS6 pistons work in the DS7 cylinder? thanks for the advice,
danWI
>
> --- On Sun, 10/11/09, Ed <valiantwagonguy@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Oversize DS7 pistons and rings are the hardest parts to get.There just aren't
many out there and they will be expensive no matter where you get them. If you
really need them you had better suck it up and but the 80 dollar ones Dan. Ed
> .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Ed, just out of curiousity, are there other 54mm pistons in the yamaha line? DT1? also, will DS6 pistons work in the DS7 cylinder? thanks for the advice, danWI
--- On Sun, 10/11/09, Ed <valiantwagonguy@...> wrote:
Oversize DS7 pistons and rings are the hardest parts to get.There just aren't many out there and they will be expensive no matter where you get them. If you really need them you had better suck it up and but the 80 dollar ones Dan. Ed
.
__________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Oversize DS7 pistons and rings are the hardest parts to get.There just aren't
many out there and they will be expensive no matter where you get them. If you
really need them you had better suck it up and but the 80 dollar ones Dan. Ed
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, d bauer <tiz_me22004@...> wrote:
>
> anyone have a set of yama DS7 54.25 rings to sell? not really willing to spend
the 39.99 per set on ebay... contact me if you have the rings or some leads!
danWI
>
anyone have a set of yama DS7 54.25 rings to sell? not really willing to spend the 39.99 per set on ebay... contact me if you have the rings or some leads! danWI
i'm putting together a DS7 engine and am wondering why someone would relieve the material at the bottom of the opening thru the case where the rod passes through.... rough file marks that made me originally think the crank and rod hit, BUT they do not show any wear. any ideas?
and heres a little background if you're wondering: awhile back, i bought what appeared to be a DS7 from a guy with little to none moto background. he claimed he couldn't keep the bike idling but it reved well. Okay, i'll figure it out, says i. after plenty of research, questions and thought, i discover the engine is a comglomerate DS7 lower end, R5 cylinders-heads, DS7 carbs, and DS7 exhaust. so i mount the correct R5 stuffs, Ed helps me tune the bike, and she starts 4 kicks! then POP and a cylinder stud breaks flush with the top of the engine case. the bike is put aside for the next project.
Fast foreward to 2 days ago. after not selling the bike with spare engine at Mid-Ohio, i decide its time to make this bike right. i pull the engine. i had already done an upper rebuild so that was all clean and good to go. when i split the cases, i discover there is NO not ANY sealer between the cases, bearings are burnt, bearing holders are missing, seals loose, shifter forks blue, clutch rod scored (and just how does THAT happen?), AND that there is rough file marks on the bottom side of the upper case where the rod passes through.
so yesterday, i went thru the lower end cleaning everything, polishing the rough file marks, inserting known good tranny, crank, seals, etal. i'm putting the engine together today and then we'll see if things are good here. and i'm still wondering about them file marks...
and so, thanks for listening and i hope someone here can help me with my mystery!
funny thing is that my bike had to be tipped over once before - the bracket that connected the turn casing to the triple tree was snapped, then rebolted on with a piece of angle iron. glad I got to toss those. Though I see how it falling now would create some terrible issues ...
Also, pics on the way once the weather clears up here and I get everything back together!
Well, that proves it was a bad ground. Glad we could help!
Personally, I think the signals look better down on the headlight. Just
be careful, if your bike tips over it will bend the headlight mounting
ears and headlight shell. Ask me how I know this..........
> awesome! I didn't know that, just did it and everything is working
great.
> Just gotta charge my battery and I'm good to go. No more mods until
this
> winter when i redo the seat, air filter and possibly exhaust. you guys
are a
> life saver.
>
> -kevin
>
> >
> > Like Cobia said, mount them to the headlight. Above is a closeup of
my
> > bike, you can see where they go. This is actually where Yamaha
intended them
> > to go, but for some reason the US bikes had them mounted on top of
the
> > forks.
> >
> > Dave
> > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Ludwig xbattlesx@
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > as of right now all stock signals and bulbs.
> > >
> > > the two rears lights come on without the front two, just don't
blink.
> > >
> > > When I replace the one front side, both lights come on (front and
rear),
> > > but don't blink.
> > >
> > > I have yet to replace both front signals and try it yet.
> > >
> > > I can hear the flasher click when turn it on, but it never clicks
off.
> > >
> > > The problem I am having is that the bars that I put on my bike
won't let
> > me
> > > have the signals mounted at the top of the triple tree. I would
like to
> > > mount them lower on the fork, but I feel that the ground wont
carry that
> > > far. I could eliminate them, but then I run into the problem of
how to
> > get
> > > the rears blinking. My guess would be resistors. Even a step
further
> > would
> > > be to eliminate both sets of signals until this winter when I do
some
> > > serious body work to the bike and rewire new signals. I'm kinda up
in the
> > > air about what to do, but I want to figure out what my options
are.
> > >
> > > On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 10:10 PM, David S manfromtriumph@ wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > A few questions first:
> > > >
> > > > Do they not light at all, or just don't flash?
> > > >
> > > > Are all the bulbs lit?
> > > >
> > > > Are you running stock signals and bulbs?
> > > >
> > > > I have had problems with aftermarket signals with smaller bulbs
causing
> > > > flashers to flash too quick. This due to their lower resistance
of the
> > > > smaller bulbs, and you need a seperate resistor to correct it.
Also,
> > > > make sure you have a good ground on all the signals, it's a
chassis
> > > > ground through the signal housing.
> > > >
> > > > Dave
> > > > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com <yamaha-r5-group%
> > 40yahoogroups.com>,
> >
> > > > Kevin Ludwig xbattlesx@
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > So I got my cables fixed thanks for the help.
> > > > >
> > > > > Next question! I had to take off the front turn signals, I'm
trying
> > to
> > > > put
> > > > > them back on but they won't blink. Any ideas? I hear that the
flasher
> > > > needs
> > > > > to have a certain resistance in order to blink. Any truth to
this?
> > > > >
> > > > > Kevin LudwigStomping ground booking/ ludzeppelin studios -
mobile
> > > > support
> > > > > 4849957983
> > > > >
> > > > > On Sep 26, 2009, at 10:13 PM, "David S" manfromtriumph@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I know of what you speak. I put a drag bar on my R5 about 5
years
> > ago,
> > > > > and went through the same thing.
> > > > >
> > > > > The clutch cable is no problem, if you don't mind a black
cable
> > > > instead
> > > > > of silver-gray. You can get a Barnett cable shorter than stock
for a
> > > > RD
> > > > > 250/350 from 73 to 74. The front brake cable is another
problem, no
> > > > one
> > > > > (that I have found) makes a shorther cable for the drum brake
models.
> > > > I
> > > > > ended up buying a NOS cable, lubed the hell out of it, and did
a
> > > > little
> > > > > rerouting. It aint perfect, but it works. BTW, I didn't the
Barnett
> > > > > clutch cable. I did basically the same thing with the clutch
that I
> > > > did
> > > > > with the brake. It's a little stiff, but it works.
> > > > >
> > > > > Dave
> > > > > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com<yamaha-r5-group%
> > 40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > <yamaha-r5-group%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > > xbattlesx@ wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > hey guys,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I put new bars on my bike and I noticed that the clutch and
front
> > > > > brake
> > > > > > cable are sticking. I thinking it's due to tension on the
cable.
> > > > there
> > > > > is a
> > > > > > lot of excess, they are old (probably the original!) and I
was
> > > > > thinking
> > > > > > about recabling.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > My question is how much of a pain is it to recable? Any
tips,
> > > > > pointers?
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ludzeppelin Studios/The Stomping Grounds Booking
> > >
> > > Kevin Ludwig
> > > cell: 484-995-7983
> > >
> > > This message is private and confidential. If you have received
this
> > message
> > > in error, please notify us and remove it from your system.
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Ludzeppelin Studios
> Kevin Ludwig
> cell: 484-995-7983
>
> This message is private and confidential. If you have received this
message
> in error, please notify us and remove it from your system.
>
-- Ludzeppelin Studios Kevin Ludwig cell: 484-995-7983
This message is private and confidential. If you have received this message in error, please notify us and remove it from your system.
Well, that proves it was a bad ground. Glad we could help!
Personally, I think the signals look better down on the headlight. Just
be careful, if your bike tips over it will bend the headlight mounting
ears and headlight shell. Ask me how I know this..........
Dave
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Ludwig <xbattlesx@...>
wrote:
>
> awesome! I didn't know that, just did it and everything is working
great.
> Just gotta charge my battery and I'm good to go. No more mods until
this
> winter when i redo the seat, air filter and possibly exhaust. you guys
are a
> life saver.
>
> -kevin
>
> On Tue, Sep 29, 2009 at 6:50 PM, David S manfromtriumph@... wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/yamaha-r5-group/photos/album/1560117881/pi\
c/787629904/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
> >
> > Like Cobia said, mount them to the headlight. Above is a closeup of
my
> > bike, you can see where they go. This is actually where Yamaha
intended them
> > to go, but for some reason the US bikes had them mounted on top of
the
> > forks.
> >
> > Dave
> > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Ludwig xbattlesx@
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > as of right now all stock signals and bulbs.
> > >
> > > the two rears lights come on without the front two, just don't
blink.
> > >
> > > When I replace the one front side, both lights come on (front and
rear),
> > > but don't blink.
> > >
> > > I have yet to replace both front signals and try it yet.
> > >
> > > I can hear the flasher click when turn it on, but it never clicks
off.
> > >
> > > The problem I am having is that the bars that I put on my bike
won't let
> > me
> > > have the signals mounted at the top of the triple tree. I would
like to
> > > mount them lower on the fork, but I feel that the ground wont
carry that
> > > far. I could eliminate them, but then I run into the problem of
how to
> > get
> > > the rears blinking. My guess would be resistors. Even a step
further
> > would
> > > be to eliminate both sets of signals until this winter when I do
some
> > > serious body work to the bike and rewire new signals. I'm kinda up
in the
> > > air about what to do, but I want to figure out what my options
are.
> > >
> > > On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 10:10 PM, David S manfromtriumph@ wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > A few questions first:
> > > >
> > > > Do they not light at all, or just don't flash?
> > > >
> > > > Are all the bulbs lit?
> > > >
> > > > Are you running stock signals and bulbs?
> > > >
> > > > I have had problems with aftermarket signals with smaller bulbs
causing
> > > > flashers to flash too quick. This due to their lower resistance
of the
> > > > smaller bulbs, and you need a seperate resistor to correct it.
Also,
> > > > make sure you have a good ground on all the signals, it's a
chassis
> > > > ground through the signal housing.
> > > >
> > > > Dave
> > > > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com <yamaha-r5-group%
> > 40yahoogroups.com>,
> >
> > > > Kevin Ludwig xbattlesx@
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > So I got my cables fixed thanks for the help.
> > > > >
> > > > > Next question! I had to take off the front turn signals, I'm
trying
> > to
> > > > put
> > > > > them back on but they won't blink. Any ideas? I hear that the
flasher
> > > > needs
> > > > > to have a certain resistance in order to blink. Any truth to
this?
> > > > >
> > > > > Kevin LudwigStomping ground booking/ ludzeppelin studios -
mobile
> > > > support
> > > > > 4849957983
> > > > >
> > > > > On Sep 26, 2009, at 10:13 PM, "David S" manfromtriumph@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I know of what you speak. I put a drag bar on my R5 about 5
years
> > ago,
> > > > > and went through the same thing.
> > > > >
> > > > > The clutch cable is no problem, if you don't mind a black
cable
> > > > instead
> > > > > of silver-gray. You can get a Barnett cable shorter than stock
for a
> > > > RD
> > > > > 250/350 from 73 to 74. The front brake cable is another
problem, no
> > > > one
> > > > > (that I have found) makes a shorther cable for the drum brake
models.
> > > > I
> > > > > ended up buying a NOS cable, lubed the hell out of it, and did
a
> > > > little
> > > > > rerouting. It aint perfect, but it works. BTW, I didn't the
Barnett
> > > > > clutch cable. I did basically the same thing with the clutch
that I
> > > > did
> > > > > with the brake. It's a little stiff, but it works.
> > > > >
> > > > > Dave
> > > > > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com<yamaha-r5-group%
> > 40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > <yamaha-r5-group%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > > xbattlesx@ wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > hey guys,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I put new bars on my bike and I noticed that the clutch and
front
> > > > > brake
> > > > > > cable are sticking. I thinking it's due to tension on the
cable.
> > > > there
> > > > > is a
> > > > > > lot of excess, they are old (probably the original!) and I
was
> > > > > thinking
> > > > > > about recabling.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > My question is how much of a pain is it to recable? Any
tips,
> > > > > pointers?
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Ludzeppelin Studios/The Stomping Grounds Booking
> > >
> > > Kevin Ludwig
> > > cell: 484-995-7983
> > >
> > > This message is private and confidential. If you have received
this
> > message
> > > in error, please notify us and remove it from your system.
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Ludzeppelin Studios
> Kevin Ludwig
> cell: 484-995-7983
>
> This message is private and confidential. If you have received this
message
> in error, please notify us and remove it from your system.
>
awesome! I didn't know that, just did it and everything is working great. Just gotta charge my battery and I'm good to go. No more mods until this winter when i redo the seat, air filter and possibly exhaust. you guys are a life saver.
Like Cobia said, mount them to the headlight. Above is a closeup of my bike, you can see where they go. This is actually where Yamaha intended them to go, but for some reason the US bikes had them mounted on top of the forks.
> as of right now all stock signals and bulbs.
> > the two rears lights come on without the front two, just don't blink. > > When I replace the one front side, both lights come on (front and rear), > but don't blink. > > I have yet to replace both front signals and try it yet.
> > I can hear the flasher click when turn it on, but it never clicks off. > > The problem I am having is that the bars that I put on my bike won't let me > have the signals mounted at the top of the triple tree. I would like to
> mount them lower on the fork, but I feel that the ground wont carry that > far. I could eliminate them, but then I run into the problem of how to get > the rears blinking. My guess would be resistors. Even a step further would
> be to eliminate both sets of signals until this winter when I do some > serious body work to the bike and rewire new signals. I'm kinda up in the > air about what to do, but I want to figure out what my options are.
>
> On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 10:10 PM, David S manfromtriumph@... wrote: > > > > > > > > > A few questions first: > > > > Do they not light at all, or just don't flash?
> > > > Are all the bulbs lit? > > > > Are you running stock signals and bulbs? > > > > I have had problems with aftermarket signals with smaller bulbs causing > > flashers to flash too quick. This due to their lower resistance of the
> > smaller bulbs, and you need a seperate resistor to correct it. Also, > > make sure you have a good ground on all the signals, it's a chassis > > ground through the signal housing. > >
> > Dave
> > Kevin Ludwig xbattlesx@ > > wrote: > > > > > > > > So I got my cables fixed thanks for the help. > > > > > > Next question! I had to take off the front turn signals, I'm trying to
> > put > > > them back on but they won't blink. Any ideas? I hear that the flasher > > needs > > > to have a certain resistance in order to blink. Any truth to this? > > >
> > > Kevin LudwigStomping ground booking/ ludzeppelin studios - mobile > > support > > > 4849957983 > > > > > > On Sep 26, 2009, at 10:13 PM, "David S" manfromtriumph@ wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I know of what you speak. I put a drag bar on my R5 about 5 years ago, > > > and went through the same thing. > > >
> > > The clutch cable is no problem, if you don't mind a black cable > > instead > > > of silver-gray. You can get a Barnett cable shorter than stock for a > > RD > > > 250/350 from 73 to 74. The front brake cable is another problem, no
> > one > > > (that I have found) makes a shorther cable for the drum brake models. > > I > > > ended up buying a NOS cable, lubed the hell out of it, and did a > > little
> > > rerouting. It aint perfect, but it works. BTW, I didn't the Barnett > > > clutch cable. I did basically the same thing with the clutch that I > > did > > > with the brake. It's a little stiff, but it works.
> > > > > > Dave > > > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com<yamaha-r5-group%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <yamaha-r5-group%40yahoogroups.com>, > > > xbattlesx@ wrote: > > > > > > > > hey guys, > > > >
> > > > I put new bars on my bike and I noticed that the clutch and front > > > brake > > > > cable are sticking. I thinking it's due to tension on the cable. > > there
> > > is a > > > > lot of excess, they are old (probably the original!) and I was > > > thinking > > > > about recabling. > > > > > > > > My question is how much of a pain is it to recable? Any tips,
> > > pointers? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> -- > Ludzeppelin Studios/The Stomping Grounds Booking
> > Kevin Ludwig > cell: 484-995-7983 > > This message is private and confidential. If you have received this message > in error, please notify us and remove it from your system. >
-- Ludzeppelin Studios Kevin Ludwig cell: 484-995-7983
This message is private and confidential. If you have received this message in error, please notify us and remove it from your system.
Like Cobia said, mount them to the headlight. Above is a closeup of my bike, you can see where they go. This is actually where Yamaha intended them to go, but for some reason the US bikes had them mounted on top of the forks.
Dave --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Ludwig <xbattlesx@...> wrote: > > as of right now all stock signals and bulbs. > > the two rears lights come on without the front two, just don't blink. > > When I replace the one front side, both lights come on (front and rear), > but don't blink. > > I have yet to replace both front signals and try it yet. > > I can hear the flasher click when turn it on, but it never clicks off. > > The problem I am having is that the bars that I put on my bike won't let me > have the signals mounted at the top of the triple tree. I would like to > mount them lower on the fork, but I feel that the ground wont carry that > far. I could eliminate them, but then I run into the problem of how to get > the rears blinking. My guess would be resistors. Even a step further would > be to eliminate both sets of signals until this winter when I do some > serious body work to the bike and rewire new signals. I'm kinda up in the > air about what to do, but I want to figure out what my options are. > > On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 10:10 PM, David S manfromtriumph@... wrote: > > > > > > > > > A few questions first: > > > > Do they not light at all, or just don't flash? > > > > Are all the bulbs lit? > > > > Are you running stock signals and bulbs? > > > > I have had problems with aftermarket signals with smaller bulbs causing > > flashers to flash too quick. This due to their lower resistance of the > > smaller bulbs, and you need a seperate resistor to correct it. Also, > > make sure you have a good ground on all the signals, it's a chassis > > ground through the signal housing. > > > > Dave > > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com <yamaha-r5-group%40yahoogroups.com>, > > Kevin Ludwig xbattlesx@ > > wrote: > > > > > > > > So I got my cables fixed thanks for the help. > > > > > > Next question! I had to take off the front turn signals, I'm trying to > > put > > > them back on but they won't blink. Any ideas? I hear that the flasher > > needs > > > to have a certain resistance in order to blink. Any truth to this? > > > > > > Kevin LudwigStomping ground booking/ ludzeppelin studios - mobile > > support > > > 4849957983 > > > > > > On Sep 26, 2009, at 10:13 PM, "David S" manfromtriumph@ wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I know of what you speak. I put a drag bar on my R5 about 5 years ago, > > > and went through the same thing. > > > > > > The clutch cable is no problem, if you don't mind a black cable > > instead > > > of silver-gray. You can get a Barnett cable shorter than stock for a > > RD > > > 250/350 from 73 to 74. The front brake cable is another problem, no > > one > > > (that I have found) makes a shorther cable for the drum brake models. > > I > > > ended up buying a NOS cable, lubed the hell out of it, and did a > > little > > > rerouting. It aint perfect, but it works. BTW, I didn't the Barnett > > > clutch cable. I did basically the same thing with the clutch that I > > did > > > with the brake. It's a little stiff, but it works. > > > > > > Dave > > > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com<yamaha-r5-group%40yahoogroups.com> > > <yamaha-r5-group%40yahoogroups.com>, > > > xbattlesx@ wrote: > > > > > > > > hey guys, > > > > > > > > I put new bars on my bike and I noticed that the clutch and front > > > brake > > > > cable are sticking. I thinking it's due to tension on the cable. > > there > > > is a > > > > lot of excess, they are old (probably the original!) and I was > > > thinking > > > > about recabling. > > > > > > > > My question is how much of a pain is it to recable? Any tips, > > > pointers? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > Ludzeppelin Studios/The Stomping Grounds Booking > > Kevin Ludwig > cell: 484-995-7983 > > This message is private and confidential. If you have received this message > in error, please notify us and remove it from your system. >
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Ludwig <xbattlesx@...> wrote:
>
> as of right now all stock signals and bulbs.
>
> the two rears lights come on without the front two, just don't blink.
>
> When I replace the one front side, both lights come on (front and rear),
> but don't blink.
>
> I have yet to replace both front signals and try it yet.
>
> I can hear the flasher click when turn it on, but it never clicks off.
>
> The problem I am having is that the bars that I put on my bike won't let me
> have the signals mounted at the top of the triple tree. I would like to
> mount them lower on the fork, but I feel that the ground wont carry that
> far. I could eliminate them, but then I run into the problem of how to get
> the rears blinking. My guess would be resistors. Even a step further would
> be to eliminate both sets of signals until this winter when I do some
> serious body work to the bike and rewire new signals. I'm kinda up in the
> air about what to do, but I want to figure out what my options are.
>
> On Sun, Sep 27, 2009 at 10:10 PM, David S <manfromtriumph@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > A few questions first:
> >
> > Do they not light at all, or just don't flash?
> >
> > Are all the bulbs lit?
> >
> > Are you running stock signals and bulbs?
> >
> > I have had problems with aftermarket signals with smaller bulbs causing
> > flashers to flash too quick. This due to their lower resistance of the
> > smaller bulbs, and you need a seperate resistor to correct it. Also,
> > make sure you have a good ground on all the signals, it's a chassis
> > ground through the signal housing.
> >
> > Dave
> > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com <yamaha-r5-group%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > Kevin Ludwig <xbattlesx@>
> > wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > So I got my cables fixed thanks for the help.
> > >
> > > Next question! I had to take off the front turn signals, I'm trying to
> > put
> > > them back on but they won't blink. Any ideas? I hear that the flasher
> > needs
> > > to have a certain resistance in order to blink. Any truth to this?
> > >
> > > Kevin LudwigStomping ground booking/ ludzeppelin studios - mobile
> > support
> > > 4849957983
> > >
> > > On Sep 26, 2009, at 10:13 PM, "David S" manfromtriumph@ wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I know of what you speak. I put a drag bar on my R5 about 5 years ago,
> > > and went through the same thing.
> > >
> > > The clutch cable is no problem, if you don't mind a black cable
> > instead
> > > of silver-gray. You can get a Barnett cable shorter than stock for a
> > RD
> > > 250/350 from 73 to 74. The front brake cable is another problem, no
> > one
> > > (that I have found) makes a shorther cable for the drum brake models.
> > I
> > > ended up buying a NOS cable, lubed the hell out of it, and did a
> > little
> > > rerouting. It aint perfect, but it works. BTW, I didn't the Barnett
> > > clutch cable. I did basically the same thing with the clutch that I
> > did
> > > with the brake. It's a little stiff, but it works.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > > --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com<yamaha-r5-group%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <yamaha-r5-group%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > xbattlesx@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > > hey guys,
> > > >
> > > > I put new bars on my bike and I noticed that the clutch and front
> > > brake
> > > > cable are sticking. I thinking it's due to tension on the cable.
> > there
> > > is a
> > > > lot of excess, they are old (probably the original!) and I was
> > > thinking
> > > > about recabling.
> > > >
> > > > My question is how much of a pain is it to recable? Any tips,
> > > pointers?
> > > >
> > >
> >
> > you can mount them to the headlight bucket.it sounds to me like a bad
ground.also check the flasher relay.take the flasher units apart and check for
any rust and clean.
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Ludzeppelin Studios/The Stomping Grounds Booking
>
> Kevin Ludwig
> cell: 484-995-7983
>
> This message is private and confidential. If you have received this message
> in error, please notify us and remove it from your system.
>
the two rears lights come on without the front two, just don't blink.
When I replace the one front side, both lights come on (front and rear), but don't blink.
I have yet to replace both front signals and try it yet.
I can hear the flasher click when turn it on, but it never clicks off.
The problem I am having is that the bars that I put on my bike won't let me have the signals mounted at the top of the triple tree. I would like to mount them lower on the fork, but I feel that the ground wont carry that far. I could eliminate them, but then I run into the problem of how to get the rears blinking. My guess would be resistors. Even a step further would be to eliminate both sets of signals until this winter when I do some serious body work to the bike and rewire new signals. I'm kinda up in the air about what to do, but I want to figure out what my options are.
I have had problems with aftermarket signals with smaller bulbs causing
flashers to flash too quick. This due to their lower resistance of the
smaller bulbs, and you need a seperate resistor to correct it. Also,
make sure you have a good ground on all the signals, it's a chassis
ground through the signal housing.
>
> So I got my cables fixed thanks for the help.
>
> Next question! I had to take off the front turn signals, I'm trying to
put
> them back on but they won't blink. Any ideas? I hear that the flasher
needs
> to have a certain resistance in order to blink. Any truth to this?
>
> Kevin LudwigStomping ground booking/ ludzeppelin studios - mobile
support
> 4849957983
>
> On Sep 26, 2009, at 10:13 PM, "David S" manfromtriumph@... wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I know of what you speak. I put a drag bar on my R5 about 5 years ago,
> and went through the same thing.
>
> The clutch cable is no problem, if you don't mind a black cable
instead
> of silver-gray. You can get a Barnett cable shorter than stock for a
RD
> 250/350 from 73 to 74. The front brake cable is another problem, no
one
> (that I have found) makes a shorther cable for the drum brake models.
I
> ended up buying a NOS cable, lubed the hell out of it, and did a
little
> rerouting. It aint perfect, but it works. BTW, I didn't the Barnett
> clutch cable. I did basically the same thing with the clutch that I
did
> with the brake. It's a little stiff, but it works.
>
> Dave
> --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com
> xbattlesx@ wrote:
> >
> > hey guys,
> >
> > I put new bars on my bike and I noticed that the clutch and front
> brake
> > cable are sticking. I thinking it's due to tension on the cable.
there
> is a
> > lot of excess, they are old (probably the original!) and I was
> thinking
> > about recabling.
> >
> > My question is how much of a pain is it to recable? Any tips,
> pointers?
> >
>
A few questions first:
Do they not light at all, or just don't flash?
Are all the bulbs lit?
Are you running stock signals and bulbs?
I have had problems with aftermarket signals with smaller bulbs causing
flashers to flash too quick. This due to their lower resistance of the
smaller bulbs, and you need a seperate resistor to correct it. Also,
make sure you have a good ground on all the signals, it's a chassis
ground through the signal housing.
Dave
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Ludwig <xbattlesx@...>
wrote:
>
> So I got my cables fixed thanks for the help.
>
> Next question! I had to take off the front turn signals, I'm trying to
put
> them back on but they won't blink. Any ideas? I hear that the flasher
needs
> to have a certain resistance in order to blink. Any truth to this?
>
> Kevin LudwigStomping ground booking/ ludzeppelin studios - mobile
support
> 4849957983
>
> On Sep 26, 2009, at 10:13 PM, "David S" manfromtriumph@... wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I know of what you speak. I put a drag bar on my R5 about 5 years ago,
> and went through the same thing.
>
> The clutch cable is no problem, if you don't mind a black cable
instead
> of silver-gray. You can get a Barnett cable shorter than stock for a
RD
> 250/350 from 73 to 74. The front brake cable is another problem, no
one
> (that I have found) makes a shorther cable for the drum brake models.
I
> ended up buying a NOS cable, lubed the hell out of it, and did a
little
> rerouting. It aint perfect, but it works. BTW, I didn't the Barnett
> clutch cable. I did basically the same thing with the clutch that I
did
> with the brake. It's a little stiff, but it works.
>
> Dave
> --- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com
<yamaha-r5-group%40yahoogroups.com>,
> xbattlesx@ wrote:
> >
> > hey guys,
> >
> > I put new bars on my bike and I noticed that the clutch and front
> brake
> > cable are sticking. I thinking it's due to tension on the cable.
there
> is a
> > lot of excess, they are old (probably the original!) and I was
> thinking
> > about recabling.
> >
> > My question is how much of a pain is it to recable? Any tips,
> pointers?
> >
>
Next question! I had to take off the front turn signals, I'm trying to put them back on but they won't blink. Any ideas? I hear that the flasher needs to have a certain resistance in order to blink. Any truth to this?
Kevin Ludwig
Stomping ground booking/ ludzeppelin studios - mobile support
I know of what you speak. I put a drag bar on my R5 about 5 years ago,
and went through the same thing.
The clutch cable is no problem, if you don't mind a black cable instead
of silver-gray. You can get a Barnett cable shorter than stock for a RD
250/350 from 73 to 74. The front brake cable is another problem, no one
(that I have found) makes a shorther cable for the drum brake models. I
ended up buying a NOS cable, lubed the hell out of it, and did a little
rerouting. It aint perfect, but it works. BTW, I didn't the Barnett
clutch cable. I did basically the same thing with the clutch that I did
with the brake. It's a little stiff, but it works.
Dave
--- In yamaha-r5-group@yahoogroups.com, xbattlesx@... wrote:
>
> hey guys,
>
> I put new bars on my bike and I noticed that the clutch and front
brake
> cable are sticking. I thinking it's due to tension on the cable. there
is a
> lot of excess, they are old (probably the original!) and I was
thinking
> about recabling.
>
> My question is how much of a pain is it to recable? Any tips,
pointers?
>