I found a nice one on Ebay at a good price.  Fabricated a bracket from aluminum
and used a momentary switch.  Works and looks great.  Also had the factory
wiring harness.

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "jan" <sjmorgan@...> wrote:
>
>
> Skip the switch. Skip the wiring for the switch. You don't need a brake handle
with a bracket. The parts are so old now that it really doesn't matter how old
it is, only where it was stored. I may be able to find one here in rust free
California.
>
>
> --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "z28barnett" <z28barnett@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Jan,
> >
> > I have a handle that is rusted solid, figures if I was going to have to buy
one, later units could be in better shape.
> >
> > I have the factory wiring harness, and they provide a push switch for the
parking brake.  Wiring harness is setup for for a parking brake light.  But
westfiel does not provide any mount brakets for the switch.
> >
> > So late model handle with switch should solve my problems.
> >
> > Alan
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "jan" <sjmorgan@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Why do you need the switch? It was not a part of any car of the original
era, and there is NO WAY that you will forget to drop the brake in the XI before
driving off.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "z28barnett" <z28barnett@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi,
> > > >
> > > > 1975 + Parking brake handle with switch - Anybody have one for sale?
> > > >
> > > > I am looking for one that has decent chrome and is not rusted solid.
> > > >
> > > > 1975 + also have a parking brake switch aready mounted.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > > Alan
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

Skip the switch. Skip the wiring for the switch. You don't need a brake handle
with a bracket. The parts are so old now that it really doesn't matter how old
it is, only where it was stored. I may be able to find one here in rust free
California.


--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "z28barnett" <z28barnett@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Jan,
>
> I have a handle that is rusted solid, figures if I was going to have to buy
one, later units could be in better shape.
>
> I have the factory wiring harness, and they provide a push switch for the
parking brake.  Wiring harness is setup for for a parking brake light.  But
westfiel does not provide any mount brakets for the switch.
>
> So late model handle with switch should solve my problems.
>
> Alan
>
>
>
> --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "jan" <sjmorgan@> wrote:
> >
> > Why do you need the switch? It was not a part of any car of the original
era, and there is NO WAY that you will forget to drop the brake in the XI before
driving off.
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "z28barnett" <z28barnett@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > 1975 + Parking brake handle with switch - Anybody have one for sale?
> > >
> > > I am looking for one that has decent chrome and is not rusted solid.
> > >
> > > 1975 + also have a parking brake switch aready mounted.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Alan
> > >
> >
>

Hi Jan,

I have a handle that is rusted solid, figures if I was going to have to buy one,
later units could be in better shape.

I have the factory wiring harness, and they provide a push switch for the
parking brake.  Wiring harness is setup for for a parking brake light.  But
westfiel does not provide any mount brakets for the switch.

So late model handle with switch should solve my problems.

Alan



--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "jan" <sjmorgan@...> wrote:
>
> Why do you need the switch? It was not a part of any car of the original era,
and there is NO WAY that you will forget to drop the brake in the XI before
driving off.
>
>
>
> --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "z28barnett" <z28barnett@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > 1975 + Parking brake handle with switch - Anybody have one for sale?
> >
> > I am looking for one that has decent chrome and is not rusted solid.
> >
> > 1975 + also have a parking brake switch aready mounted.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Alan
> >
>

Why do you need the switch? It was not a part of any car of the original era,
and there is NO WAY that you will forget to drop the brake in the XI before
driving off.



--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "z28barnett" <z28barnett@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> 1975 + Parking brake handle with switch - Anybody have one for sale?
>
> I am looking for one that has decent chrome and is not rusted solid.
>
> 1975 + also have a parking brake switch aready mounted.
>
> Thanks
>
> Alan
>

Hi,

1975 + Parking brake handle with switch - Anybody have one for sale?

I am looking for one that has decent chrome and is not rusted solid.

1975 + also have a parking brake switch aready mounted.

Thanks

Alan

I will give it a try, I can also lower the rear to get a bit more rise at the
front.

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "jan" <sjmorgan@...> wrote:
>
> You have enough adjustment in the front suspension, and in the front
adjustment of the clam shell to make the difference. Two inches in the front
dampers should be available, which should  give you enough. It doesn't take much
to raise the headlights that much. They are far enough ahead of the front axle
to give an inch more rise than the suspension.
>
> My car is set up an inch higher than yours. 6.5" driver's side, 6" passenger
side front.There  is plenty of suspension travel.  This will put you within
three inches right there, and there is plenty left. You can get an inch more
front end lift than that if necessary, and a slight lift to bonnet mounts and
you are there. Your car has much taller tires and wheels than mine. This should
be no problem in gaining at least 4" at the headlights. There is plenty of
adjustment available.
>
> With my car, if I put on the 15" wheels, I have nearly legal headlight height.
No reason that your car can't make the same height.
>
> Remember that the rise is more than a 1:1 relationship to the spring preload
adjustment and ride height.
>
> --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "westfield11builder" <mdevenis@>
wrote:
> >
> >   My front is 5 inches too low, I don't think that can be made up with ride
height......  Let's see what a change of inspection stations will do for me
first, it will be possible to make a temporary mount for the lights that raises
them the needed 5 inches if that is necessary. I think I can get another inch by
adjusting the fit of the front clamshell too.
> >
> > --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "jan" <sjmorgan@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Headlight height on my car is 19", and I have 13" wheels. My body is
mounted a little higher than yours, and I have more ground clearance.
> > >
> > > The front wheels on your car are about half in inch or so taller than
mine. You can get to the height easily enough by just screwing the collars
tighter. About an inch and  a half should do it.
> >
> >     I will be sending my carbs back to APT to have them look into the leaky
throttle shaft bushing that seems to be affecting the drivability.
> >
> >    Does anyone know where to get a neoprene valve cover gasket? My cork one
is just leaking too darn much!!
> > >
> > > You can easily lift the front end using the ride height adjustment. Just
take careful measurements so that you get the spring collars back to the right
spot, and not ruin that perfect corner weighting job.
> > >
> > > For my car, another two inches would be easy.
> > >
> > > The PCV valve is an easy fix.
> > >
> > > Though I am a proponent of SB100 registration, if you are building a car
in CA, and have the title from the original Spridget, use that to register the
car. It saves a lot of time, and can be done at the local Auto Club office.
> > >
> > > My car is running on the '65 Spridget chassis number. It is legal as a
special body Sprite, and the insurance company has an agreed value policy for
it.
> > >
> > > --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "westfield11builder" <mdevenis@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > >   I have been taking my Westfield around for it's required inspections
the last week or so and in the process have learned some things that may be of
interest.
> > > >
> > > >   According the the Bureau of Auto Repair Referee, who issues the smog
exemption, all SB100 cars have to have a functioning PCV system. This means that
a catch tank is no longer legal if not sealed and vented to the carbs in some
fashion. There was a regulation change "about 5 months ago".
> > > >
> > > >   According to the headlight inspector all cars registered since 1940
must have headlights that are 22 to 40 inches above the road. My car is
currently at 17 inches....
> > > >
> > > >   Finally according to the brake inspector (same guy as the headlight
inspector), I need to install the handbrake.
> > > >
> > > >   The handbrake is no problem, I have it in Tucson and will install it.
Same with the PCV valve and vent system, it should be an easy matter to hook up
a hose to the back of a K&N filter.
> > > >
> > > >   The headlight issue is a bit harder, I will try another inspection
station when I return to CA in late Dec., if that is unsuccessful I can just
make a set of light extenders to raise the bulbs 6 inches. I figure a plywood
plate that picks up the holes in the body that now mount the lights and then
holds the light assembly 6 inches higher,it would look like a figure eight
shaped plate. This would be just for inspection purposes, like the SVA  pods
used in the UK. I won't ned to drive more than a mile or two with them, get
inspected, drive home and put the lamps back into the fenders and toss the
plates. It can be done, but I would rather avoid the work.
> > > >
> > > >   The car is a lot of fun to drive, more so as I work out the bugs and 
get things working correctly. I have an air leak in the forward carb throttle
shaft that may be causing running and tuning problems, so I will have that fixed
first. The Megajolt was a problem to get set-up and running correctly, but now
is working fine. I think that my junkyard Ford coil is old and weak so I have a
new Accel EDIS coil on order along with new spark plug wires so that I can build
custom ones the correct length.
> > > >
> > > >   The combination of 15" wheels and Dunlop race tires works perfectly in
my car: no fit or rubbing issues at all. With the Datsun 5-speed I cruise at
3200 showing 70 on the speedo and 80 is still under 4000. This is an electronic
unit that I calibrated over a measured 2 mile course. I have only 126 miles so
far since I have been driving under 1 day permits to allow driving to the
various inspections.
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

You have enough adjustment in the front suspension, and in the front adjustment
of the clam shell to make the difference. Two inches in the front dampers should
be available, which should  give you enough. It doesn't take much to raise the
headlights that much. They are far enough ahead of the front axle to give an
inch more rise than the suspension.

My car is set up an inch higher than yours. 6.5" driver's side, 6" passenger
side front.There  is plenty of suspension travel.  This will put you within
three inches right there, and there is plenty left. You can get an inch more
front end lift than that if necessary, and a slight lift to bonnet mounts and
you are there. Your car has much taller tires and wheels than mine. This should
be no problem in gaining at least 4" at the headlights. There is plenty of
adjustment available.

With my car, if I put on the 15" wheels, I have nearly legal headlight height.
No reason that your car can't make the same height.

Remember that the rise is more than a 1:1 relationship to the spring preload
adjustment and ride height.

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "westfield11builder" <mdevenis@...>
wrote:
>
>   My front is 5 inches too low, I don't think that can be made up with ride
height......  Let's see what a change of inspection stations will do for me
first, it will be possible to make a temporary mount for the lights that raises
them the needed 5 inches if that is necessary. I think I can get another inch by
adjusting the fit of the front clamshell too.
>
> --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "jan" <sjmorgan@> wrote:
> >
> > Headlight height on my car is 19", and I have 13" wheels. My body is mounted
a little higher than yours, and I have more ground clearance.
> >
> > The front wheels on your car are about half in inch or so taller than mine.
You can get to the height easily enough by just screwing the collars tighter.
About an inch and  a half should do it.
>
>     I will be sending my carbs back to APT to have them look into the leaky
throttle shaft bushing that seems to be affecting the drivability.
>
>    Does anyone know where to get a neoprene valve cover gasket? My cork one is
just leaking too darn much!!
> >
> > You can easily lift the front end using the ride height adjustment. Just
take careful measurements so that you get the spring collars back to the right
spot, and not ruin that perfect corner weighting job.
> >
> > For my car, another two inches would be easy.
> >
> > The PCV valve is an easy fix.
> >
> > Though I am a proponent of SB100 registration, if you are building a car in
CA, and have the title from the original Spridget, use that to register the car.
It saves a lot of time, and can be done at the local Auto Club office.
> >
> > My car is running on the '65 Spridget chassis number. It is legal as a
special body Sprite, and the insurance company has an agreed value policy for
it.
> >
> > --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "westfield11builder" <mdevenis@>
wrote:
> > >
> > >   I have been taking my Westfield around for it's required inspections the
last week or so and in the process have learned some things that may be of
interest.
> > >
> > >   According the the Bureau of Auto Repair Referee, who issues the smog
exemption, all SB100 cars have to have a functioning PCV system. This means that
a catch tank is no longer legal if not sealed and vented to the carbs in some
fashion. There was a regulation change "about 5 months ago".
> > >
> > >   According to the headlight inspector all cars registered since 1940 must
have headlights that are 22 to 40 inches above the road. My car is currently at
17 inches....
> > >
> > >   Finally according to the brake inspector (same guy as the headlight
inspector), I need to install the handbrake.
> > >
> > >   The handbrake is no problem, I have it in Tucson and will install it.
Same with the PCV valve and vent system, it should be an easy matter to hook up
a hose to the back of a K&N filter.
> > >
> > >   The headlight issue is a bit harder, I will try another inspection
station when I return to CA in late Dec., if that is unsuccessful I can just
make a set of light extenders to raise the bulbs 6 inches. I figure a plywood
plate that picks up the holes in the body that now mount the lights and then
holds the light assembly 6 inches higher,it would look like a figure eight
shaped plate. This would be just for inspection purposes, like the SVA  pods
used in the UK. I won't ned to drive more than a mile or two with them, get
inspected, drive home and put the lamps back into the fenders and toss the
plates. It can be done, but I would rather avoid the work.
> > >
> > >   The car is a lot of fun to drive, more so as I work out the bugs and 
get things working correctly. I have an air leak in the forward carb throttle
shaft that may be causing running and tuning problems, so I will have that fixed
first. The Megajolt was a problem to get set-up and running correctly, but now
is working fine. I think that my junkyard Ford coil is old and weak so I have a
new Accel EDIS coil on order along with new spark plug wires so that I can build
custom ones the correct length.
> > >
> > >   The combination of 15" wheels and Dunlop race tires works perfectly in
my car: no fit or rubbing issues at all. With the Datsun 5-speed I cruise at
3200 showing 70 on the speedo and 80 is still under 4000. This is an electronic
unit that I calibrated over a measured 2 mile course. I have only 126 miles so
far since I have been driving under 1 day permits to allow driving to the
various inspections.
> > >
> >
>

My front is 5 inches too low, I don't think that can be made up with ride
height......  Let's see what a change of inspection stations will do for me
first, it will be possible to make a temporary mount for the lights that raises
them the needed 5 inches if that is necessary. I think I can get another inch by
adjusting the fit of the front clamshell too.

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "jan" <sjmorgan@...> wrote:
>
> Headlight height on my car is 19", and I have 13" wheels. My body is mounted a
little higher than yours, and I have more ground clearance.
>
> The front wheels on your car are about half in inch or so taller than mine.
You can get to the height easily enough by just screwing the collars tighter.
About an inch and  a half should do it.

     I will be sending my carbs back to APT to have them look into the leaky
throttle shaft bushing that seems to be affecting the drivability.

    Does anyone know where to get a neoprene valve cover gasket? My cork one is
just leaking too darn much!!
>
> You can easily lift the front end using the ride height adjustment. Just take
careful measurements so that you get the spring collars back to the right spot,
and not ruin that perfect corner weighting job.
>
> For my car, another two inches would be easy.
>
> The PCV valve is an easy fix.
>
> Though I am a proponent of SB100 registration, if you are building a car in
CA, and have the title from the original Spridget, use that to register the car.
It saves a lot of time, and can be done at the local Auto Club office.
>
> My car is running on the '65 Spridget chassis number. It is legal as a special
body Sprite, and the insurance company has an agreed value policy for it.
>
> --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "westfield11builder" <mdevenis@>
wrote:
> >
> >   I have been taking my Westfield around for it's required inspections the
last week or so and in the process have learned some things that may be of
interest.
> >
> >   According the the Bureau of Auto Repair Referee, who issues the smog
exemption, all SB100 cars have to have a functioning PCV system. This means that
a catch tank is no longer legal if not sealed and vented to the carbs in some
fashion. There was a regulation change "about 5 months ago".
> >
> >   According to the headlight inspector all cars registered since 1940 must
have headlights that are 22 to 40 inches above the road. My car is currently at
17 inches....
> >
> >   Finally according to the brake inspector (same guy as the headlight
inspector), I need to install the handbrake.
> >
> >   The handbrake is no problem, I have it in Tucson and will install it. Same
with the PCV valve and vent system, it should be an easy matter to hook up a
hose to the back of a K&N filter.
> >
> >   The headlight issue is a bit harder, I will try another inspection station
when I return to CA in late Dec., if that is unsuccessful I can just make a set
of light extenders to raise the bulbs 6 inches. I figure a plywood plate that
picks up the holes in the body that now mount the lights and then holds the
light assembly 6 inches higher,it would look like a figure eight shaped plate.
This would be just for inspection purposes, like the SVA  pods used in the UK. I
won't ned to drive more than a mile or two with them, get inspected, drive home
and put the lamps back into the fenders and toss the plates. It can be done, but
I would rather avoid the work.
> >
> >   The car is a lot of fun to drive, more so as I work out the bugs and  get
things working correctly. I have an air leak in the forward carb throttle shaft
that may be causing running and tuning problems, so I will have that fixed
first. The Megajolt was a problem to get set-up and running correctly, but now
is working fine. I think that my junkyard Ford coil is old and weak so I have a
new Accel EDIS coil on order along with new spark plug wires so that I can build
custom ones the correct length.
> >
> >   The combination of 15" wheels and Dunlop race tires works perfectly in my
car: no fit or rubbing issues at all. With the Datsun 5-speed I cruise at 3200
showing 70 on the speedo and 80 is still under 4000. This is an electronic unit
that I calibrated over a measured 2 mile course. I have only 126 miles so far
since I have been driving under 1 day permits to allow driving to the various
inspections.
> >
>

It is amazing to me how the rules vary from state to state.  Here in Oklahoma
the only concern, and I mean ONLY, was that I pay the tax on the kit.  I did so
and the vehicle was promptly registered and licensed.  No one looked at the
car!!!!

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "jan" <sjmorgan@...> wrote:
>
> Headlight height on my car is 19", and I have 13" wheels. My body is mounted a
little higher than yours, and I have more ground clearance.
>
> The front wheels on your car are about half in inch or so taller than mine.
You can get to the height easily enough by just screwing the collars tighter.
About an inch and  a half should do it.
>
> You can easily lift the front end using the ride height adjustment. Just take
careful measurements so that you get the spring collars back to the right spot,
and not ruin that perfect corner weighting job.
>
> For my car, another two inches would be easy.
>
> The PCV valve is an easy fix.
>
> Though I am a proponent of SB100 registration, if you are building a car in
CA, and have the title from the original Spridget, use that to register the car.
It saves a lot of time, and can be done at the local Auto Club office.
>
> My car is running on the '65 Spridget chassis number. It is legal as a special
body Sprite, and the insurance company has an agreed value policy for it.
>
> --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "westfield11builder" <mdevenis@>
wrote:
> >
> >   I have been taking my Westfield around for it's required inspections the
last week or so and in the process have learned some things that may be of
interest.
> >
> >   According the the Bureau of Auto Repair Referee, who issues the smog
exemption, all SB100 cars have to have a functioning PCV system. This means that
a catch tank is no longer legal if not sealed and vented to the carbs in some
fashion. There was a regulation change "about 5 months ago".
> >
> >   According to the headlight inspector all cars registered since 1940 must
have headlights that are 22 to 40 inches above the road. My car is currently at
17 inches....
> >
> >   Finally according to the brake inspector (same guy as the headlight
inspector), I need to install the handbrake.
> >
> >   The handbrake is no problem, I have it in Tucson and will install it. Same
with the PCV valve and vent system, it should be an easy matter to hook up a
hose to the back of a K&N filter.
> >
> >   The headlight issue is a bit harder, I will try another inspection station
when I return to CA in late Dec., if that is unsuccessful I can just make a set
of light extenders to raise the bulbs 6 inches. I figure a plywood plate that
picks up the holes in the body that now mount the lights and then holds the
light assembly 6 inches higher,it would look like a figure eight shaped plate.
This would be just for inspection purposes, like the SVA  pods used in the UK. I
won't ned to drive more than a mile or two with them, get inspected, drive home
and put the lamps back into the fenders and toss the plates. It can be done, but
I would rather avoid the work.
> >
> >   The car is a lot of fun to drive, more so as I work out the bugs and  get
things working correctly. I have an air leak in the forward carb throttle shaft
that may be causing running and tuning problems, so I will have that fixed
first. The Megajolt was a problem to get set-up and running correctly, but now
is working fine. I think that my junkyard Ford coil is old and weak so I have a
new Accel EDIS coil on order along with new spark plug wires so that I can build
custom ones the correct length.
> >
> >   The combination of 15" wheels and Dunlop race tires works perfectly in my
car: no fit or rubbing issues at all. With the Datsun 5-speed I cruise at 3200
showing 70 on the speedo and 80 is still under 4000. This is an electronic unit
that I calibrated over a measured 2 mile course. I have only 126 miles so far
since I have been driving under 1 day permits to allow driving to the various
inspections.
> >
>

Headlight height on my car is 19", and I have 13" wheels. My body is mounted a
little higher than yours, and I have more ground clearance.

The front wheels on your car are about half in inch or so taller than mine. You
can get to the height easily enough by just screwing the collars tighter. About
an inch and  a half should do it.

You can easily lift the front end using the ride height adjustment. Just take
careful measurements so that you get the spring collars back to the right spot,
and not ruin that perfect corner weighting job.

For my car, another two inches would be easy.

The PCV valve is an easy fix.

Though I am a proponent of SB100 registration, if you are building a car in CA,
and have the title from the original Spridget, use that to register the car. It
saves a lot of time, and can be done at the local Auto Club office.

My car is running on the '65 Spridget chassis number. It is legal as a special
body Sprite, and the insurance company has an agreed value policy for it.

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "westfield11builder" <mdevenis@...>
wrote:
>
>   I have been taking my Westfield around for it's required inspections the
last week or so and in the process have learned some things that may be of
interest.
>
>   According the the Bureau of Auto Repair Referee, who issues the smog
exemption, all SB100 cars have to have a functioning PCV system. This means that
a catch tank is no longer legal if not sealed and vented to the carbs in some
fashion. There was a regulation change "about 5 months ago".
>
>   According to the headlight inspector all cars registered since 1940 must
have headlights that are 22 to 40 inches above the road. My car is currently at
17 inches....
>
>   Finally according to the brake inspector (same guy as the headlight
inspector), I need to install the handbrake.
>
>   The handbrake is no problem, I have it in Tucson and will install it. Same
with the PCV valve and vent system, it should be an easy matter to hook up a
hose to the back of a K&N filter.
>
>   The headlight issue is a bit harder, I will try another inspection station
when I return to CA in late Dec., if that is unsuccessful I can just make a set
of light extenders to raise the bulbs 6 inches. I figure a plywood plate that
picks up the holes in the body that now mount the lights and then holds the
light assembly 6 inches higher,it would look like a figure eight shaped plate.
This would be just for inspection purposes, like the SVA  pods used in the UK. I
won't ned to drive more than a mile or two with them, get inspected, drive home
and put the lamps back into the fenders and toss the plates. It can be done, but
I would rather avoid the work.
>
>   The car is a lot of fun to drive, more so as I work out the bugs and  get
things working correctly. I have an air leak in the forward carb throttle shaft
that may be causing running and tuning problems, so I will have that fixed
first. The Megajolt was a problem to get set-up and running correctly, but now
is working fine. I think that my junkyard Ford coil is old and weak so I have a
new Accel EDIS coil on order along with new spark plug wires so that I can build
custom ones the correct length.
>
>   The combination of 15" wheels and Dunlop race tires works perfectly in my
car: no fit or rubbing issues at all. With the Datsun 5-speed I cruise at 3200
showing 70 on the speedo and 80 is still under 4000. This is an electronic unit
that I calibrated over a measured 2 mile course. I have only 126 miles so far
since I have been driving under 1 day permits to allow driving to the various
inspections.
>

I have been taking my Westfield around for it's required inspections the last
week or so and in the process have learned some things that may be of interest.

   According the the Bureau of Auto Repair Referee, who issues the smog
exemption, all SB100 cars have to have a functioning PCV system. This means that
a catch tank is no longer legal if not sealed and vented to the carbs in some
fashion. There was a regulation change "about 5 months ago".

   According to the headlight inspector all cars registered since 1940 must have
headlights that are 22 to 40 inches above the road. My car is currently at 17
inches....

   Finally according to the brake inspector (same guy as the headlight
inspector), I need to install the handbrake.

   The handbrake is no problem, I have it in Tucson and will install it. Same
with the PCV valve and vent system, it should be an easy matter to hook up a
hose to the back of a K&N filter.

   The headlight issue is a bit harder, I will try another inspection station
when I return to CA in late Dec., if that is unsuccessful I can just make a set
of light extenders to raise the bulbs 6 inches. I figure a plywood plate that
picks up the holes in the body that now mount the lights and then holds the
light assembly 6 inches higher,it would look like a figure eight shaped plate.
This would be just for inspection purposes, like the SVA  pods used in the UK. I
won't ned to drive more than a mile or two with them, get inspected, drive home
and put the lamps back into the fenders and toss the plates. It can be done, but
I would rather avoid the work.

   The car is a lot of fun to drive, more so as I work out the bugs and  get
things working correctly. I have an air leak in the forward carb throttle shaft
that may be causing running and tuning problems, so I will have that fixed
first. The Megajolt was a problem to get set-up and running correctly, but now
is working fine. I think that my junkyard Ford coil is old and weak so I have a
new Accel EDIS coil on order along with new spark plug wires so that I can build
custom ones the correct length.

   The combination of 15" wheels and Dunlop race tires works perfectly in my car:
no fit or rubbing issues at all. With the Datsun 5-speed I cruise at 3200
showing 70 on the speedo and 80 is still under 4000. This is an electronic unit
that I calibrated over a measured 2 mile course. I have only 126 miles so far
since I have been driving under 1 day permits to allow driving to the various
inspections.

I saw the first articles on the Westfield XI, thought that the original 11 was
pretty cool. I wondered how much fun an XI would be with an Alfa 1300 in it, but
the engine was a little tall, even when laid over on its side. Also thought
about a narrowed Alfa rear end as well, and the Alfa trans.

I always loved the Salyer or Costin bodywork of the mid 50s as well.

I was immersed in Aviation at the time, flying a highly Modified Mooney 231,
then a Siai Marchetti. I drove a 911 for a while, then sold after a year it for
my current Renault R5Turbo.

All the while, that XI never left my mind.

A few years ago, I decided to buy something new to play with. I sold my very
special Notch body Saleen racer, and my MotoGuzzi 850LM (wish now that I had not
let the bike go, even though it fetched a huge amount of cash). With cash
burning a hole in my pocket, of course, I went looking for a Morgan 4/4.
Specifically, one that had been raced, maybe modified with rack and pinion
steering, plastic fenders. Used and abused, but complete and ready for this SVT
Ztec that I had laying around, with a type 9 CR trans. Under 1,700 lbs, 200 HP.
Should yank the pants off of a +8, maybe even a Corvette.

Well, Morgan prices had gone nutz in the few months before I planned my
purchase, and my local Morgan dealer (yes, we have an authorized Morgan dealer,
selling NEW Morgans) could not find me the 4/4 of my dreams. So I asked Dennis,
the Morgan Dealer, jokingly,  "Well, do you have a line on a Westfield XI???"

"Funny you should ask", said Dennis. "One came in yesterday".   So, an hour
later, I stopped by to take a look.

It was a horrible ratty thing, held together with bailing wire and covered with
stress cracks. The thing was undrivable, with a broken throttle cable, and an
ill tuned Weber. The oil cooler was hanging on a coat hanger, literally, in the
engine compartment.

I made an offer, but Dennis could not accept it at that time. "The car has been
here for two days, and the guy is a personal friend" he said. Come back in a
couple of weeks, and I will sell it to you for that price". He was pretty
confident that there would be no better offer.  I bought the car.

I asked that it be in running condition, with the throttle cable fixed. I
brought a foam pad so that I could reach the pedals. When I arrived at the
dealer to pick it up, the mechanic asked "where is your trailer?"

I said "It has plates, I paid registration, I plan to drive it home, I did pay
all of that money for a running car, right?".

"Really?" said the mechanic.  And I did. The thing was awful, uncomfortable,
with dodgy steering, horrible brakes and  a screwed up clutch. The engine barely
ran. But it looked cool. Very Very cool. I always wanted a 50s sports racer, and
now, I had one.

When I got it home, I started to remove many of the "improvements". Splash
panels, rear fender wells, a lot of bailing wire, a pair of speakers. Stripped
down to its bare components, it began to look like something that I might enjoy.
It was becoming true to its architecture.

I set the alignment, and the toe, which was out by over an inch, and found that
the anti vibe mount for the weber had extruded one of the O rings. At that time,
I also discovered the Longman big valve head, attached to a junk header that had
been rewelded maybe 9 times. The rear bushings were gone, so I started my quest
for parts.

I made new rear arms about a week later, using rod ends. A temporary fix until
bushings became available.

One thing that I did when I set the alignment was to check the caster in the
front end. Though not adjustable, when the chassis was leveled with my weight in
the seat, the caster was identical left to right. The chassis was dead straight.
I had a good car.

I straightened out the engine as best I could. It finally ripped the tip ring
land off of #1 after a couple of years, shortly after it snapped one of the
pressed metal rockers.

I had rewired it, replaced the dampers as all were blown within the first 500
miles of use. I pulled the engine and replaced the clutch, all the while,
driving the thing nearly daily. I found a piece of hard tempurFoam for the seat,
which helped hugely. It is still there today, along with that foam pad.
Eventually, I will get to the interior.

I built the 1388 for it, added the Rivergate Datsun transmission conversion at
the same time. It has been solid and reliable, and has done thousands of miles
every year. It has yet to get me stuck anywhere. It has taken me far from home,
circulated a race track for a weekend, then returned me safely home, without
drama, numerous times.

It still has the original diff and axles, rear bearings too. This will probably
have to be extensively rebuilt as there is an LSD coming, specially set up for
my car. Then the 15" wheels and the Dunlop vintage tires. Finally, I will paint,
carpet and reupholster the interior. I already have the foam for the seats.

It has been massive fun, and continues to be a source of enjoyment for me with
every drive. I use the car often and have no problems driving it 50 miles to my
folks, then returning home in the dark.

it is good handling, responsive, and it doesn't beat me to death.

And, women like to ride in it.

I wish that I could say that I wanted an 11 since I was a kid, but what I really
wanted was a 23. I met Jim Clark at Riverside when he drove the 23 at the Times
Grand Prix. I was also partial to the Cooper Monaco and the Lotus 19 as well.
Especially when they had Chevy or Ford V8s.

I bought the rat dog of an XI for what it was, for I knew what it could be. I
nearly have the 50s sports racer of my dreams. I think that I will keep it when
I find that 23 that I have always wanted.



--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, spitzerej@... wrote:
>
> For the few that may have missed them. Two haveta reads
>
> _http://members.toast.net/joerger/crate.html_
> (http://members.toast.net/joerger/crate.html)
>
> _http://members.toast.net/joerger/north.html_
> (http://members.toast.net/joerger/north.html)
>
> both per joerger
>
>
> In a message dated 11/17/2009 9:05:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> Lalford@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> I saw my first Eleven at Sebring in 1957 when, as  a young lad of 16 I
> stood in the Lotus garage the morning of the race (  race watching was much
more
> casual in those days) and watched them do a  final tuneup on one of the
> cars.  I stood beside Colin Chapman, wished  him luck, shook his hand (in
> hindsight I should have had it bronzed  afterwards) and watched them do very
well
> over the following 12 hours.  I  remember thinking that it was even more
> beautiful than the Testa Rossa  Ferraris and determined that I would own one
> someday.  It only took  me 46 years to do so.
>
> Les
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: _steve8003_ (mailto:stephenschroeder@...)
> To: _westfield_eleven@westfield_elwes_
> (mailto:westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com)
> Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 6:37  AM
> Subject: [westfield_eleven] Re: Babe  Magnet
>
>
>
>
>
> I have "lusted" after an Eleven since I first saw a picture of  one in a
> sports car magazine. That was in 1958 and I was 12. I read Peter  Egan's
> "Northeast by Westfield" (Road and Track June 1984) over and over. I  still
read
> it from time to time. I have again read "The Red Car" by Don  Stanford (the
> book that got me started on sports cars rather than hot rods).  I still lust
> after a Lotus Seven (I've had a Europa). I have a 1982 Ferrari  308 GTSi
> which is great fun. Everyone is correct that the Eleven is a real  attention
> getter - almost too much so. But I have the car for ME not because  I seek
> attention. I have the greatest respect for all the sports car  "marques" from
> the English to the Italian. The Westfield really does make ME  smile!!!!
>
> --- In _westfield_eleven@westfield_elwes_
> (mailto:westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com) ,  spitzerej@,
> >
> > My wife dubbed my 11 (incidentally  neither an original nor a Westfield)
> the
> > "smiley car". She was  amazed at that universal response - and the
> > universal - "What is  it?". In two years, other than perhaps at a sports
> car
> > gathering, I  have only had one person venture with utter certainty -
> that is a
> >  Lotus 11. Few under 60 years of age even have a clue as to the country
> of
> > origin....
> > (My wife is the same "babe" that married me when  my only mode of
> > transportation was a tricked-out 350 Yamaha! Her  parents I think
> suffered a lot at
> > the  beginning...
> >
>

----- Original Message -----

From: steve8003

To: westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 6:37 AM

Subject: [westfield_eleven] Re: Babe Magnet

 

I have "lusted" after an Eleven since I first saw a picture of one in a sports car magazine. That was in 1958 and I was 12. I read Peter Egan's "Northeast by Westfield" (Road and Track June 1984) over and over. I still read it from time to time. I have again read "The Red Car" by Don Stanford (the book that got me started on sports cars rather than hot rods). I still lust after a Lotus Seven (I've had a Europa). I have a 1982 Ferrari 308 GTSi which is great fun. Everyone is correct that the Eleven is a real attention getter - almost too much so. But I have the car for ME not because I seek attention. I have the greatest respect for all the sports car "marques" from the English to the Italian. The Westfield really does make ME smile!!!!

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, spitzerej@... wrote:
>
> My wife dubbed my 11 (incidentally neither an original nor a Westfield) the
> "smiley car". She was amazed at that universal response - and the
> universal - "What is it?". In two years, other than perhaps at a sports car
> gathering, I have only had one person venture with utter certainty - that is a
> Lotus 11. Few under 60 years of age even have a clue as to the country of
> origin....
> (My wife is the same "babe" that married me when my only mode of
> transportation was a tricked-out 350 Yamaha! Her parents I think suffered a lot at
> the beginning...)
>

I have "lusted" after an Eleven since I first saw a picture of one in a sports
car magazine.  That was in 1958 and I was 12.  I read Peter Egan's "Northeast by
Westfield"  (Road and Track June 1984) over and over.  I still read it from time
to time.  I have again read "The Red Car" by Don Stanford (the book that got me
started on sports cars rather than hot rods).  I still lust after a Lotus Seven
(I've had a Europa).  I have a 1982 Ferrari 308 GTSi which is great fun. 
Everyone is correct that the Eleven is a real attention getter - almost too much
so.  But I have the car for ME not because I seek attention.  I have the
greatest respect for all the sports car "marques" from the English to the
Italian.  The Westfield really does make ME smile!!!!

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, spitzerej@... wrote:
>
> My wife dubbed my 11 (incidentally neither an original nor a Westfield) the
>  "smiley car". She was amazed at that universal response - and the
> universal  - "What is it?". In two years, other than perhaps at a sports car
> gathering, I have only had one person venture with  utter certainty - that is
a
> Lotus 11. Few under 60 years of age even have a  clue as to the country of
> origin....
> (My wife is the same "babe" that married me when my only mode of
> transportation was a tricked-out 350 Yamaha! Her parents I think suffered a
lot  at
> the beginning...)
>

Hi,

I got my wire wheels yesterday, I had a Digtal fish scale so I weighed one.

Dayton 15" x 5" Tubeless Wire wheel with Sprdget hubs weighs 18 lbs 11 oz.

I have not fitted suspension to the car yet, so I can't confirm that the fit is
good.  I am running the same 5" rims all around with the narrow front tires 450L
and 500L rear tires.

Looks like they wipe a urethane / rubber like compound down the cemter of the
wheel and hit the outer edge with individual dots of sealing compound wiped
flush with the rim.

The seal appear to be very sound, but if you need to true the wheel the compound
would need to be removed.  Otherwise I don't think you could turn the nipples. 
The sealant seems to be a pretty good glue.  Dayton wheels are supposed to not
require retruing.  I guess time will tell.

Alan

I am doing some research into a new double adjustable damper for the XIs, as all
of the early cars will need them as the SPAX are all probably blown out by now.

My car is u sing AVO dampers currently. Better than SPAX, have lasted far
longer, but not really that great. Adjustment is limited, and rebound damping
just about non existent. An OK solution, but not a great one.

I an looking for something far better, with compression and rebound settings.

If you have a new model, and would like to upgrade the dampers, this would be an
alternative.

I will be doing the development myself, so there would be good information for
adjustment.

Cost on these would be less than half the cost of a Koni or a Penske and would
accept the standard springs or I might have a new spring solution as well.
Installation would be bolt in, no modifications.

Having better dampers improves ride and handling to a degree that most drivers
cannot imagine.

How many on this board would be interested in better dampers? How much would you
pay for replacement of the old SPAX?  Current pricing for a set of Konis double
adjustable race dampers is around $2400 a set. Would anyone here pay $1000 for a
proper set of perfectly adjustable REBUILDABLE dampers that would improve the
ride comfort and the handling?

----- Original Message -----

From: brianwalton23

To: westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 7:26 PM

Subject: [westfield_eleven] Re: Babe Magnet

 

No No No. You put yourself down and attribute too much to your vehicle. I happen to know them there two women you mention. They were simply staggered at seeing two guys with tightened bolts!

B

> A friend dropped over for a little bolt tightening on the XI, then we went for late lunch. Even on the short drive for fast food, we found two women who dropped their groceries, staring at the car as we drove by.
>

No. See it was two guys that tighten bolts, on the XI.

In any case, I have a drive date tomorrow. At some point, I will have to choose.
This one drives a Z06.

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "brianwalton23" <brianwalton23@...>
wrote:
>
> No No No.  You put yourself down and attribute too much to your vehicle.  I
happen to know them there two women you mention.  They were simply staggered at
seeing two guys with tightened bolts!
>
> B
>
>
> > A friend dropped over for a little bolt tightening on the XI, then we went
for late lunch. Even on the short drive for fast food, we found two women who
dropped their groceries, staring at the car as we drove by.
> >
>

No No No.  You put yourself down and attribute too much to your vehicle.  I
happen to know them there two women you mention.  They were simply staggered at
seeing two guys with tightened bolts!

B


> A friend dropped over for a little bolt tightening on the XI, then we went for
late lunch. Even on the short drive for fast food, we found two women who
dropped their groceries, staring at the car as we drove by.
>

A friend dropped over for a little bolt tightening on the XI, then we went for
late lunch. Even on the short drive for fast food, we found two women who
dropped their groceries, staring at the car as we drove by.

We don't have to cruise for babes. They just find us.

The trick is to make sure that they enjoy the ride.

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "brianwalton23" <brianwalton23@...>
wrote:
>
> Oh I can see the headline now:
>
> UNCOMFORTABLE WESTFIELD ELEVENS BAD BOYS CRUISE THE HIGHWAYS FOR BABES.
>
> yeh baby!
>
> B
>

Oh I can see the headline now:

UNCOMFORTABLE WESTFIELD ELEVENS BAD BOYS CRUISE THE HIGHWAYS FOR BABES.

yeh baby!

B

What, you think that your car was comfortable??? Get a sense of humor.  I didn't
make the comment, YOU DID.

By the way, I agree. The things are uncomfortable, but they can be easily made
COMFORTABLE. Not just tolerable, but actually comfortable to drive long
distances in.

Three inch temperfoam is not three inches thick when you sit on it, and it
doesn't lose the cushion effect when crushed. Two layer has a remarkable
increase in comfort. The effect on driver and passenger comfort is incredible
(as owners have attested to, after installing the product), even with only a 1"
pad of the stiffest foam available.

Sure, it costs about $150 to put this remarkable foam into the seats, but it is
worth every penny.

Most of the XIs are not very comfortable, including my own when I drove it the
first time. It was HORRIBLE, and I wondered why I spent all of that hard earned
money on that torture rack.  Funny how easy this was to fix. The trick is in the
temper foam. It even fixes the bucket seats, which have only a single inch of
cheap foam padding in the squab. Yes, a three layer temper foam cushion can fit
into the old seat bottom. Two layer, hard and medium, will also make an
excellent cushion.

I have not finished my interior, but I do have a single layer of the hard
temperfoam, and a 5"thick back pad as I am not 6' tall as the former owner of my
car was. I have new seat bottoms cut, and will have a lower seat height when I
finish with the upholstery work. I want to be a little deeper into the cockpit
my self, and that also puts the ladies of 5'6" behind the windshield for a
little less breeze. Oh, and the handling will be better with the weight 3" lower
as well.

Some owners accept such things as friction addled steering that doesn't return,
punishing ride due to  the chassis riding on the bump stops, and basic
instability. We have not yet begun to talk about engine tune, or chronic
overheating (which is easily cured). They have no choice, because they don't
know how to get to a fully developed car. This is one of the main reasons that
most XIs have so few miles. Most builders don't have a clue as to how to set up
suspension on a car that weighs less than 1,200 lbs, and that knowledge is
important to sorting out ride comfort and handling. I have yet to see a an XI
that was even close to being properly set up with regard to ride height or
alignment, let alone corner weights. For instance, ALL of the cars that I have
set up had the toe setting off by AN INCH. Most have the dampers screwed down to
full stiff. No wonder the cars don't get driven.

From the feel in the steering, stability on the highway, to the comfort of the
seats, all that is required is the right set of adjustments, or the right
materials. Sometimes, it needs the right parts installed, or, in the case of one
car, simply following the directions in the manual when it came to installing
the cooling system hoses.

You could drive my car, and you would fit perfectly (unless you have big feet.
My pedals are very close together).
  You would find that it rides relatively softly, tracks dead straight and
friction free steering turns in equally well right or left. The brakes work OK.
I have, after years of study, decided that this whole problem starts with the
geometry at the pedal box, and no change in master cylinder or braking
components will fix anything until I have a better designed pedal box.  So, I
stick with the stock brakes for the moment.

On it's now aged 13" tires, it transitions to over steer a bit too abruptly for
my taste, but this is fixed by installing the 15" tires and wire wheels. I can
still slide it around with confidence, but the chassis works so much better on
the vintage race tires.

It has WAY too much wheel spin off of corners, but a TranX LSD will cure that as
well. The engine has excellent throttle response, and good torque from 2200 RPM
up to the artificially low redline of only 6,500 RPM. It can rev to 7500, but I
want this one to last. Even with the loss of 15 HP at the top end, it still will
get to 60 in 6.7 seconds. Pretty fast by '57 standards. It idles in 110º heat,
doesn't overheat in the canyons, and carburetes cleanly enough. It pulls easily
to 120 mph, and beyond. Yes, it is stable at that speed.

I do this sort of development and road test prep work for niche manufacturers
(including the US demo XI that went to all of the magazines for testing and was
very well received) as well as for owners of component or kit vehicles. I do it
because I love to do it, and derive much pleasure seeing the owners out on the
weekends driving their cars, and enjoying them. And, if they follow my
instructions for a proper suspension setup and a more comfortable seat, have
many repeat female riders.

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "markjoerger" <joerger@...> wrote:
>
>
> --- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "jan" <sjmorgan@> wrote:
>
> > I have driven Mark J's old car, and half a dozen others. I can
> > understand why nobody wanted a second ride.
>
> You have me at a disadvantage, Jan. You've driven my old car but I have no
podium to speak from regarding your car. Regardless, I don't believe that it is
the spirit of this group to talk trash about other members' cars. Your opinions
on what is 'right' to do with the W-11 are well known to the group.
>
> > The thing was excruciatingly uncomfortable to sit in. My car, quite
> > a bit better. Yours? Put 3" of temper foam three layer in the seat
> > bottom, Set the ride height an inch higher, and you too can have a
> > babe magnet.
>
> Not all of us have the advantage of being 'Chapman-sized'. I'm over six feet
tall and did not have the option of 3" of foam in the seat. I was dangerously
close to looking like a Shriner in a micro-car to start with.
>

--- In westfield_eleven@yahoogroups.com, "jan" <sjmorgan@...> wrote:

> I have driven Mark J's old car, and half a dozen others. I can
> understand why nobody wanted a second ride.

You have me at a disadvantage, Jan. You've driven my old car but I have no
podium to speak from regarding your car. Regardless, I don't believe that it is
the spirit of this group to talk trash about other members' cars. Your opinions
on what is 'right' to do with the W-11 are well known to the group.

> The thing was excruciatingly uncomfortable to sit in. My car, quite
> a bit better. Yours? Put 3" of temper foam three layer in the seat
> bottom, Set the ride height an inch higher, and you too can have a
> babe magnet.

Not all of us have the advantage of being 'Chapman-sized'. I'm over six feet
tall and did not have the option of 3" of foam in the seat. I was dangerously
close to looking like a Shriner in a micro-car to start with.

To whom it may concern,

I have purchased an early Mark 1. I would like to post some photos for others to
enjoy.

Best Regards,
Joe