--- In viking27_is@yahoogroups.com, Damon Fever wrote:
>Thanxs for those tips Rick, will look into it for sure.
Cheers>
> On 9/4/07 7:05 PM, "lolalldaylong" wrote:
>
> > Your welcome Rick, I wonder if there is a particular set of bags
for
> > the '42 model? Any ideas?
>
> If your bike has the pannier racks with press snaps on the inner top
> corners, the only bags I know of are those offered by Walridge
Motors
> http://www.walridge.com/
> That's what I have now. I had to change the snaps, but otherwise
they are
> just right. I'm sure there are others, but I don't know about them.
>
> I've dealt with Walridge for years, I'm sure they would be willing
to ship
> to your location. If in doubt call them and ask to speak to Mike
Partridge,
> the proprietor. The girl on the phone will try to talk you out of
it, but
> insist. He will call you back.
>
> I made up some internal formers for my bags from corrugated
polyethylene;
> they are essentially plastic boxes that fit inside the bags to
enable them
> to retain some shape when empty. You could probably fashion
something
> similar if you wanted to.
>
> Cheers
> Rick F
>





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--- In viking27_is@yahoogroups.com, Damon Fever <twotyred@...> wrote:
>Thanxs for those tips Rick, will look into it for sure.
Cheers>
> On 9/4/07 7:05 PM, "lolalldaylong" <lolalldaylong@...> wrote:
>
> > Your welcome Rick, I wonder if there is a particular set of bags
for
> > the '42 model? Any ideas?
>
> If your bike has the pannier racks with press snaps on the inner top
> corners, the only bags I know of are those offered by Walridge
Motors
> http://www.walridge.com/
> That's what I have now. I had to change the snaps, but otherwise
they are
> just right. I'm sure there are others, but I don't know about them.
>
> I've dealt with Walridge for years, I'm sure they would be willing
to ship
> to your location. If in doubt call them and ask to speak to Mike
Partridge,
> the proprietor. The girl on the phone will try to talk you out of
it, but
> insist. He will call you back.
>
> I made up some internal formers for my bags from corrugated
polyethylene;
> they are essentially plastic boxes that fit inside the bags to
enable them
> to retain some shape when empty. You could probably fashion
something
> similar if you wanted to.
>
> Cheers
> Rick F
>

On 9/4/07 7:05 PM, "lolalldaylong" <lolalldaylong@...> wrote:

> Your welcome Rick, I wonder if there is a particular set of bags for
> the '42 model? Any ideas?

If your bike has the pannier racks with press snaps on the inner top
corners, the only bags I know of are those offered by Walridge Motors
http://www.walridge.com/
That's what I have now. I had to change the snaps, but otherwise they are
just right. I'm sure there are others, but I don't know about them.

I've dealt with Walridge for years, I'm sure they would be willing to ship
to your location. If in doubt call them and ask to speak to Mike Partridge,
the proprietor. The girl on the phone will try to talk you out of it, but
insist. He will call you back.

I made up some internal formers for my bags from corrugated polyethylene;
they are essentially plastic boxes that fit inside the bags to enable them
to retain some shape when empty. You could probably fashion something
similar if you wanted to.

Cheers
Rick F

Your welcome Rick, I wonder if there is a particular set of bags for
the '42 model? Any ideas?
Cheers,
Hank

Hank, thanks for letting me know. You shouldn't have much trouble;
Google terms like "canvas knapsack", "canvas bread bags" or "canvas
panniers" and you should find plenty.

Cheers
Rick F


lolalldaylong wrote:
> --- In viking27_is@yahoogroups.com, Damon Fever <twotyred@...> wrote:
>
>>Hey Rick,thank you for the offer, I'm in the UK and I guess you
>
> should let Cal have them and I'll try to get some bags this side of
> the pond.
> Cheers,
> Hank
>
>>
>>
>>On 9/3/07 3:15 PM, "lolalldaylong" <lolalldaylong@...> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I'm looking for a set of canvas
>>>pannier bags, if anyone has a set that they want to sell or if
>
> know of
>
>>>someone that is selling a set of bags, I'd be delighted to buy
>
> them.
>
>>I have a surplus pair that came with my bike; they aren't original,
>
> but then
>
>>I think there were various original styles. I replaced them with a
>
> new pair
>
>>from Walridge Motors in Canada; these  have the leather corners,
>
> snaps and
>
>>clips to suit the army pannier racks, and were reasonably priced.
>>
>>If you want my old ones, I'll let them go for $30. They are in good
>
> shape.
>
>>Cheers
>>Rick F
>>Raleigh, NC USA
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

--- In viking27_is@yahoogroups.com, Damon Fever <twotyred@...> wrote:
>Hey Rick,thank you for the offer, I'm in the UK and I guess you
should let Cal have them and I'll try to get some bags this side of
the pond.
Cheers,
Hank
>
>
>
> On 9/3/07 3:15 PM, "lolalldaylong" <lolalldaylong@...> wrote:
>
> > I'm looking for a set of canvas
> > pannier bags, if anyone has a set that they want to sell or if
know of
> > someone that is selling a set of bags, I'd be delighted to buy
them.
>
> I have a surplus pair that came with my bike; they aren't original,
but then
> I think there were various original styles. I replaced them with a
new pair
> from Walridge Motors in Canada; these  have the leather corners,
snaps and
> clips to suit the army pannier racks, and were reasonably priced.
>
> If you want my old ones, I'll let them go for $30. They are in good
shape.
>
> Cheers
> Rick F
> Raleigh, NC USA
>

Cal wrote:
> If he doesn't want them I'd be interested.

Cal the bags are the ones shown in the attached picture. They don't have
the corner snaps and bottom clips, but can be made to work OK. If I
don't hear from anyone else after a few days, you can have 'em.

Cheers
Rick F

On 9/3/07 3:15 PM, "lolalldaylong" <lolalldaylong@...> wrote:

> I'm looking for a set of canvas
> pannier bags, if anyone has a set that they want to sell or if know of
> someone that is selling a set of bags, I'd be delighted to buy them.

I have a surplus pair that came with my bike; they aren't original, but then
I think there were various original styles. I replaced them with a new pair
from Walridge Motors in Canada; these  have the leather corners, snaps and
clips to suit the army pannier racks, and were reasonably priced.

If you want my old ones, I'll let them go for $30. They are in good shape.

Cheers
Rick F
Raleigh, NC USA

Hi everyone this a real good group and I've sure gained an insite into
the working and servicing of the M20 as well a load of tips. I've a '42
M20 almost complete except for a few bits and pieces that I mean to
pick up as and when they are available. I'm looking for a set of canvas
pannier bags, if anyone has a set that they want to sell or if know of
someone that is selling a set of bags, I'd be delighted to buy them.
Cheers!

Thanks.

That is what I have done.
Seems universal to use 2BA instead fo 3/16 BSF.
No one local carries 3/16" BSF so I had to order them from the UK.
Seems a lot of riders are using 5mm metric if they need somthing tighter than 2
BA but I
never liked substituting and in time it will knacker the rear primary & the
thought of
having to grind off the old nuts & weld new ones on is not my idea of fun.

Thanks for cleaning up the site too.

Regards
Trevor


> Did you try Russell motors? The used to have NOS chaincase screws.
>
> Regards
>
> Hinrik
> Group moderator
>

Trevor,

Did you try Russell motors? The used to have NOS chaincase screws.

Regards

Hinrik
Group moderator

Hello,

It will be hard and expensive for you to find a FG-42, but the MP-44´s
are available in England.

Regards

Hinrik
Group moderator

Just for a change to a motorcycle related post, I have finally got a decient
primary for my 43
WM20.
Previously I had been using 2BA set screws to hold the cover on as the chain was
running dry
( greased actually) as I could not remove the inspection plug, level or drain
bolts all these had
been "painted in" by a "professional restorer" who had done the cove in 2 pack.
OTOH it did look nice & shinny black.

Now the problem is when I put oil in I don't think that the 2 BA set screws that
I have been
using to date will be able to clamp the cover tight enough to make an almost oil
tight joint.

According to the parts book they should be 3/16"  CEI Set Srews which are a lot
closer to
3/16" BSF ( both being 32 tpi) than 2 BA which actually is 31.5 tpi.
What is every one else using ?
If not 2 BA then where are you getting your bolts from.
The only screws that I can find are 2 BA's.
Bike Beesa
Trevor

hello to all people here in the forum, I´m a collector from Spain, and
I´m looking a german militaria, and in special one desactivated FG42
or STG44.

king reegards

hello to all people here in the forum, I´m a collector from Spain, and
I´m looking a german militaria, and in special one desactivated FG42
or STG44.

king reegards

Here's a start:
http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/viking27_is/photos/view/b410?b=10

--- In viking27_is@yahoogroups.com, "jesperhougaard"
<jesperhougaard@...> wrote:
>
> I am restoring a 1938 BSA M-20 and have run into a bit of a problem
> with the front hub assembly. Someone has apparently assembled it
> wrongly in the past, the bearings are finished and now I have a
problem
> reassembling it.
>
> Does anyone have an exploded view or a picture of the axle with
correct
> location of nuts and spacers?
>
> Best regards,
> Jesper
>

Hi, Have you contacted Brian Pollitt of the BSAOC UK ? It may be that
you have a civilian model, that was commandeered literally from a BSA
Dealers showroom at the start of WW II. I know a DR who was driven in
the back of a truck to such a dealer. They then rode the gleaming,
shiny, highly chromed M20's back to camp, and then were given pots of
paint and a brush, and told to paint ALL the bike in the Army clour of
the day. You might have one that fits into that catagory !!! It is
worth checking. Go to    http://www.bsaoc.demon.co.uk/   scroll down
until you see their 'Numbering system' , you might be able to glean
some info from there. Good Luck ! Keep us posted !


--- In viking27_is@yahoogroups.com, "Chris" <c.coxon@...> wrote:
>
> I have Just collected my dream restoration project - a real sleeper
> WM20 from the wilds of Scotland, It has a very early frame number WM20
> 1435
> Which causes a problem because I cannot find its frame number in 'THE'
> book on the subject 'British Military Motorbikes 1932-45' By Chris
> Orchard and Steve Madden the nearest they have is a group of bikes
> starting with 1501 from a September 1939 contract, Im trying to
> establish what the number would have been that was painted on the tank
> and I believe it was related to the frame number?
>
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Chris. C.
>

Hi Andy,
I can just give some general sugestions:
- get a plan of your gearbox
- In the Hayes book (something like that, I do not remember the name) it
is written what to do
- Organise the service sheets for the gearbox, these help as well
- When you take the gearbox apart, make a lot of pictures with your dig
camera. The more the better, because you will need them for assembly.
- Write down step by step what you do.
- I allways put the stuff I just had take out of the gearbox into a little
bag and write a sticky paper what is is.

1) selector forks: you have to take out at least the selector shaft. And
this is in the deep of the gearbox.
2) -
3) I'm making my own gaskets. with the same thinkness as the original. but
I'm using some "gasket out of the tupe" in addition, but just a little.

Sorry for the general answers. Good luck

Sacha










"andyswearman" <andyswearman@...>
Sent by:
viking27_is@yahoogroups.com
13.03.07 21:45
Please respond to
viking27_is@yahoogroups.com


To
viking27_is@yahoogroups.com
cc

Subject
M20 Gearbox Help
Classification







Dear All,

I am having problems with my gearbox. It gets stuck in between gears
from time to time and wont come back out. Can anyone answer the
following:

1) I have ordered new selector forks, how you get the old ones off
and the new ones on.

2) When I put the gearbox back together does the bike need to be in
gear?

3) Last time the gearbox was stripped someone helped me. He found
that the whole gearbox locked up if a normal gasket was used. He
therefore made me an extra thick gasket. This sounds odd to me can
anyone suggest whats going wrong.

I dont normaly do gearboxes as they scare me but I guess the time has
come to learn!

Thanks

Andy





Yahoo! Groups Links

Dear All,

I am having problems with my gearbox. It gets stuck in between gears
from time to time and wont come back out. Can anyone answer the
following:

1) I have ordered new selector forks, how you get the old ones off
and the new ones on.

2) When I put the gearbox back together does the bike need to be in
gear?

3) Last time the gearbox was stripped someone helped me. He found
that the whole gearbox locked up if a normal gasket was used. He
therefore made me an extra thick gasket. This sounds odd to me can
anyone suggest whats going wrong.

I dont normaly do gearboxes as they scare me but I guess the time has
come to learn!

Thanks

Andy

I have Just collected my dream restoration project - a real sleeper
WM20 from the wilds of Scotland, It has a very early frame number WM20
1435
Which causes a problem because I cannot find its frame number in 'THE'
book on the subject 'British Military Motorbikes 1932-45' By Chris
Orchard and Steve Madden the nearest they have is a group of bikes
starting with 1501 from a September 1939 contract, Im trying to
establish what the number would have been that was painted on the tank
and I believe it was related to the frame number?

Any help appreciated.

Chris. C.

I am restoring a 1938 BSA M-20 and have run into a bit of a problem
with the front hub assembly. Someone has apparently assembled it
wrongly in the past, the bearings are finished and now I have a problem
reassembling it.

Does anyone have an exploded view or a picture of the axle with correct
location of nuts and spacers?

Best regards,
Jesper

hi! my name is douglas from victoria australia. i have amostly there
wm20 43' by the frame and engine no. i am willing to part with. it is
in mock up stage with the motor disassembled, it has the plunger
gearbox but i can get the original and it has a plunger oiltank and i
can get the original no toolbox but easily obtainable.i've put new
mains in it and the bigend is having new rollers fitted. i paid two
grand for it but ive bought various new bits for it, including new
headlight reflector, new clutch sleeve and bearings oilpump drive new
seat cover new front tyre etc.  i will accept 2000 grand. anyone
interested in victoria? ph no is 0357941541 douglas

Hi, Just to say hello, Im just starting out, looking to build a
mongrel WM20 from parts or Basket Cases, condition and completeness
not too much of an issue, preferably sourced in UK to save on shipping
costs - can collect anywhere Midlands/South of England area, Im not
made of money so Im looking for bargain prices - please e mail me at
c.coxon@... if you can help.

Cheers
Chris C

Hi All
      Has anyone got a rigid girder front frame part with the taper
fittings for a sidecar for sale or exchange for one without.
     Geoff

start by raising your needle position to the bottom notch and see if
that makes a difference, sounds like you're much too lean from idle
up....then check if there is any leak between your carby flange and
manifold. these things will give you these symptons.  douglas

Hi to all,I have visited this site anumber of times since I got my M20
(3 weeks ago)the bike has not run for 31 years,but a very good friend
of mine and fellow bike enthusiast decided to reduce his collection
and gave me first choice of his 2 m20's partly restored.(he is
concentrating on his collection of Panthers)any how,he assured me
bike was running when he purchased it and he is very trustworthy.I
took barrel and head off .replaced rings busted glaze on bore and
replaced head and barrel.stripped carb and cleaned all airways(
although it wasnot bad)
Oh by the way he had already fitted new exhaust valve and loosely
assembled top end.cleaned oil tank out .epoxied petrol tank ( some
evidence of light rust but generally good condition)checked for oil
return to tank,Ok retimed and quite a few other bits and bobs
sorted.mag checked out Ok (I got a spark when turning engine over.
buttoned it all up,petrol in ,4th kick she fired up.
now the diifficult bit, not having much experience with manual
advance/returned ,when starting close air lever fully,fully retard
ignition get stoke just over compression and then a long kick,she
does not start first time every time but i eventually get it
going,but can't get to tickover,soon as it fires i fully advance the
ignition but a bike warms up as i try to open air lever engine will
falter and die.I have just had it running the best yet by only half
advancing timing and half opening air lever and she ids puttering
away nicely.I have not ridden the bike yet there is more work to be
done before then but I would like to know I have engine reliable
before I move on.the benefit of your combined knowledge and
experience would be greatly appreciated regards to all from your
latest member Gary

__________________________________________________
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Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y antispam ¡gratis!
¡Abrí tu cuenta ya! - http://correo.yahoo.com.ar

Hi to all,I have visited this site anumber of times since I got my M20
(3 weeks ago)the bike has not run for 31 years,but a very good friend
of mine and fellow bike enthusiast decided to reduce his collection
and gave me first choice of his 2 m20's partly restored.(he is
concentrating on his collection of Panthers)any how,he assured me
bike was running when he purchased it and he is very trustworthy.I
took barrel and head off .replaced rings busted glaze on bore and
replaced head and barrel.stripped carb and cleaned all airways(
although it wasnot bad)
Oh by the way he had already fitted new exhaust valve and loosely
assembled top end.cleaned oil tank out .epoxied petrol tank ( some
evidence of light rust but generally good condition)checked for oil
return to tank,Ok retimed and quite a few other bits and bobs
sorted.mag checked out Ok (I got a spark when turning engine over.
buttoned it all up,petrol in ,4th kick she fired up.
now the diifficult bit, not having much experience with manual
advance/returned ,when starting close air lever fully,fully retard
ignition get stoke just over compression and then a long kick,she
does not start first time every time but i eventually get it
going,but can't get to tickover,soon as it fires i fully advance the
ignition but a bike warms up as i try to open air lever engine will
falter and die.I have just had it running the best yet by only half
advancing timing and half opening air lever and she ids puttering
away nicely.I have not ridden the bike yet there is more work to be
done before then but I would like to know I have engine reliable
before I move on.the benefit of your combined knowledge and
experience would be greatly appreciated regards to all from your
latest member Gary