Hi I own a 2007 Prius and my friend noticed that when I buckle up the seat belt
clip is refersed on the drivers side. This causes the belt to have a twist when
it is put on. I will bring to the dealer this month. I hope they honor as i have
less than 36000 mi. Has anyone had the same problem?
Thanks
My wife's 2002 Prius (139k miles) is having intermittent problems with the A/C.
The light on the A/C button will start flashing and the A/C will stop working.
Turning it off for awhile and back on may get it to work for awhile, or the
button may start flashing again. Seems to stay on during cooler days. On
warmer days it still works well until the engine warms up.
I did the trick with turning the ignition key on, immediately hit the A/C button
3 times, then turn the fan switch from OFF to AUTO. The A/C button blinked a
"2,1" repeatedly.
I cannot find what this code means. I suspect the compressor speed is not
matching the engine speed so the computer turns the A/C off.
Could this be a worn belt, bad clutch, bad sensor, or bad amplifier module?
Toyota dealer wants to replace the compressor to the tune of $1350+.
I still say sell it privately. You GOTS to be able to gets more than $4,500 for
it!
--- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, Ted Wollnik <twollnik@...> wrote:
>
> Good point.. I brought that up with the wife,
> and as usual the obvious escaped me the other reason
> for the upscope in size was pre-planning for another kid.
> The prius already has two child seats in the back. no
> room for a 3rd car seat.
>
> Thanks for the suggestion though
>
> --
> Check out what we have been up to
> http://triforhope.blogspot.com/
>
>
> --- On Sat, 8/8/09, Stan Horwitz <stan.horwitz@...> wrote:
>
> > From: Stan Horwitz <stan.horwitz@...>
> > Subject: Re: [toyota-prius] Bye Bye Prius...
> > To: "Ted Wollnik" <twollnik@...>
> > Cc: toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Saturday, August 8, 2009, 6:36 AM
> >
> > On Aug 8, 2009, at 6:08 AM, Ted Wollnik wrote:
> >
> > > So the family just finished an long weekend camping
> > trip. We opt'd to take the old minivan rather than over
> > stuff the prius. Turned out the wife was deathly afraid that
> > we'd break down in the middle of the Keewenaw peninsula (no
> > cell coverage) of the UP again, just like in 2007.
> > >
> > > We get home and its been decided that the minivan will
> > be "cash-for-clunkered". I said "ok" but where is the rest
> > of the money for a new car coming. We'll trade the prius in
> > also (i've got a 2005 Salsa Red). What!! the prius?
> > >
> > > Since the wife isnt ready to trade in her mini cooper,
> > its the prius
> > > and the cash-for-clunker minivan. What a sad day. The
> > prius only has 58k on it. Its running, still, like new.
> > >
> > Why not just sell the minivan and keep the Prius? You
> > still end up with the same number of cars, plus you will
> > have a few extra dollars in your pocket.
> >
> >
>
One thing I do when sitting in stop-and-go, or stop-and-stop (worse ver of S&G)
I turn my headlights off, but not the marker lights. With us not really moving,
I can easily see the car in front of me in the orange glow, and from the sides
and rear, visability is unchanged.
Doing this will reduce the draw on the battery, and keep it from needing the ICE
as soon/often. Yeah, I know, its not much of a reduction.
My car will sit just fine with a purple battery indicator. The ICE turns on
quickly with movement, so I think it it is just not putting a charge in the
battery, just maintaining it.
--- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, Michelle Vadeboncoeur <mrv@...> wrote:
>
> I have a 2001 US Classic Prius (purchased Feb. 2001), around 55,000
> miles on it. It is only driven for a few hundred miles every so often
> (every couple of months) - in between uses I have the 12v battery
> hooked up to a BatteryMINDer. (And yes, it has had the SSC 40G
> battery resealing campaign performed.)
>
> Anyhow, last week we took it on vacation to Niagara Falls, ON. 6 hour
> drive to get there from our garage (no issues), and then we were stuck
> in non-moving traffic for 2 hours to get from the Senaca Casino in
> Niagara Falls, NY, over the Rainbow Bridge, through the tolls and
> Canadian customs...
>
> My husband and I were quite surprised to find that while sitting,
> essentially idling and not moving anywhere, that the engine kept
> coming on. Fan set to face, but we purposely turned off the AC
> (knowing that the AC would run the engine we opened up the windows).
> Headlights were on, and we were listening to podcasts on an iPhone
> (which was also being charged at the same time from the car's 12v)
> through a cassette adapter. Back in the day (when I used the Prius
> for daily commuting), I could sit non-moving in traffic for enough
> time for 15 minutes to elapse on the display and the engine would not
> come on. While sitting in this customs line, the engine kept coming
> on within each 5min MPG band. I don't remember my engine doing that
> since being stuck in commuting traffic on a cold windy winter day with
> the heater on...
>
> Since the engine kept coming on for no reason that we could fathom
> (and definitely would come on if we switched from D to P), we decided
> to roll up the windows and just use the AC, but...
>
> Is this engine coming on (what I feel was prematurely) a sign that my
> hybrid battery no longer keeps a charge quite as it used to? Is it
> just from age, or from non-use?
>
Call Toyota Customer Care; they may be willing to help you on the
replacement cost. You aren't that far out of warranty.
On Mon, Aug 3, 2009 at 7:31 PM, bigtweedg <bigtweedg@...> wrote:
> Hello all!
>
> Long time reader, first time question. I just got the horrible news that my
> HV battery is having a malfunction and will have to be replaced. After
> driving from Los Angeles to Portland, Or and back with no problems I arrived
> home and the car drove fine. Well yesterday I went to start it and the
> triangle and display screen were lit up with error messages. The dealer is
> quoting me $3000 for a new replacement for batteries not including labor.
> Does anyone know of a solid place I could pick up a battery, I have checked
> ebay but only one gentleman sells them on there. Also, I know there is a kit
> to convert a 04 prius to all electric plug in, has anyone heard of this for
> the first generation prius. Any help would be great!
>
best,
Larry
--
Larry Finch
N 40° 53' 47"
W 74° 03' 56"
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi, sorry about the news. I imagine that the most likely 3000/3009 under your
circumstances is electrolyte leakage, metal corrosion, electrical leakage.
The Toyota shop that did the fuel tank would not be my next stop, for sure. If
you seem to need more diagnosing, please find another.
Second, had this vehicle the free HV battery resealing, back in the day? If not,
we may have a toehold.
I suggest you deal with Toyota directly, 800-331-4331, not through (any) shop
intermediary. This has led to better outcomes in the past. However it seems to
me recently that there have been fewer successes with post-warranty claims. Try
anyway.
A new replacement HV battery is the most expensive and surest. Below that, a
used one harvested by salvage dismantlers. Preferably 2003 vintage because
supposedly they were making them better then.
For the highly technically and inexplicably brave, open the danger-box and
resolve the corrosion issue and balance the modules. Or with more modules from
salvage, build up a well-matched battery assembly.
Good luck.
DAS
--- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, "Dale Sherman" <dsherman2@...> wrote:
>
> My wife's 2002 Prius (139k miles) is having intermittent problems with the
A/C. The light on the A/C button will start flashing and the A/C will stop
working. Turning it off for awhile and back on may get it to work for awhile,
or the button may start flashing again. Seems to stay on during cooler days.
On warmer days it still works well until the engine warms up.
>
> I did the trick with turning the ignition key on, immediately hit the A/C
button 3 times, then turn the fan switch from OFF to AUTO. The A/C button
blinked a "2,1" repeatedly.
>
> I cannot find what this code means. I suspect the compressor speed is not
matching the engine speed so the computer turns the A/C off.
>
> Could this be a worn belt, bad clutch, bad sensor, or bad amplifier module?
Toyota dealer wants to replace the compressor to the tune of $1350+.
>
I bet they would like to do that.
If I am reading the manual right (p DI-879) you are seeing a code 21, which is a
fault in the solar sensor circuit. Possible trouble areas are the solar sensor,
the harness and connector between evaporator temp sensor and A/C aplifier, and
the A/C amplifier itself. The notes warn that code 21 is normal if the test is
done in a dark place.
Ref: page DI-881 of volume 1, Toyota 2002 Prius repair manual.
A "no DTC" indication is half second off, half second on, continuously,
following the indicator and actuator checks.
Mike
Hi Karl,
The 2G Prius traction battery with 28 modules weighs <100 lb. If you had a
lead-acid battery installed of similar capacity then you might be talking 800
lb...
Patrick Wong
--- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, "Karl" <joes_morgue@...> wrote:
>
> What about swapping out the origional for something lighter, but same
capabilities? Might be cheaper because of less packaging materials being used
too.
>
> If I remember right, the Traction battery weighs in at 800lbs, so if the
weight of the battery was halved, you would see a performance gain just by not
carrying that 400 lbs. (OK, only about 4 mpg, but hey, a gain is a gain)
Does the "MAX A/C" button have any effect at all on this ?
--- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, "Dale Sherman" <dsherman2@...> wrote:
>
> My wife's 2002 Prius (139k miles) is having intermittent problems with the
A/C. The light on the A/C button will start flashing and the A/C will stop
working. Turning it off for awhile and back on may get it to work for awhile,
or the button may start flashing again. Seems to stay on during cooler days.
On warmer days it still works well until the engine warms up.
>
> I did the trick with turning the ignition key on, immediately hit the A/C
button 3 times, then turn the fan switch from OFF to AUTO. The A/C button
blinked a "2,1" repeatedly.
>
> I cannot find what this code means. I suspect the compressor speed is not
matching the engine speed so the computer turns the A/C off.
>
> Could this be a worn belt, bad clutch, bad sensor, or bad amplifier module?
Toyota dealer wants to replace the compressor to the tune of $1350+.
>
I'm sure it's in the manual. Have a look.
--
Peace,
BobJ
--- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, "postoak4740" <postoak007@...> wrote:
>
> How can I get rid of the oil maintanance notice on my 2010. I have 6000 miles
on it. I change my own oil and filter. Is there any way to make the numbers
larger on the display screen. I have to stare at the disply to read the odomoter
and trip miles while driving.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com [mailto:toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of hankconey
> Sent: 10 August 2009 22:27
> To: toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [toyota-prius] Driver side seat belt clip reversed.
>
> Hi I own a 2007 Prius and my friend noticed that when I buckle up the seat
> belt clip is refersed on the drivers side. This causes the belt to have a
> twist when it is put on. I will bring to the dealer this month. I hope
> they honor as i have less than 36000 mi. Has anyone had the same problem?
This usually happens when you move the buckle past a fold or twist in the
belt when you're in a hurry. To undo it, do the same thing - put a fold in
the belt and push the buckle over it.
--
Mike Dimmick
--- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, "Dale Sherman" <dsherman2@...> wrote:
>
> My wife's 2002 Prius (139k miles) is having intermittent problems with the
A/C. The light on the A/C button will start flashing and the A/C will stop
working. Turning it off for awhile and back on may get it to work for awhile,
or the button may start flashing again. Seems to stay on during cooler days.
On warmer days it still works well until the engine warms up.
>
> I did the trick with turning the ignition key on, immediately hit the A/C
button 3 times, then turn the fan switch from OFF to AUTO. The A/C button
blinked a "2,1" repeatedly.
>
> I cannot find what this code means. I suspect the compressor speed is not
matching the engine speed so the computer turns the A/C off.
>
> Could this be a worn belt, bad clutch, bad sensor, or bad amplifier module?
Toyota dealer wants to replace the compressor to the tune of $1350+.
>
Sorry I didn't have more time this morning; here is the list of A/C DTCs:
11 room temp sensor circuit
note: if the room temp is approximate -18.6 Celsius or lower trouble code
11 may be output even though the system is normal
12 ambient temperature sensor circuit note: if the ambient temperature is
approximately -52.9 Celsius or lower a malfunction code may be output even
though the system is normal
13 evaporator temperature sensor circuit
14 engine coolant temperature sensor circuit
21 solar sensor circuit
note: if the check is being performed in a dark place, DTC 21... could be
displayed
22 all conditions below are detected for 3 seconds or more:
(a) engine speed: 500 RPM or more
(b) ratio between engine and compressor RPM deviates 20% or more in
comparison to normal operation
Note: to confirm DTC 22, perform the following steps.
(1) with the engine running enter the DTC check mode
(2) enter actuator check mode and set the operation to step number one
(3) check that DTC 22 is output
23 Open in pressure switch circuit; abnormal refrigerant pressure [below 196
kPa (28 PSI) over 3140 kPa (455 psi)]
31 air mix damper position sensor circuit
32 air inlet damper position sensor circuit
33 air outlet damper position sensor circuit
41 air mix control servomotor circuit
42 air inlet control servomotor circuit
43 air outlet control servomotor circuit
DTC 23 comes closest to saying a pressure problem is detected. If all DTCs are
clear when in a lighted place I would try a normal refrigeration service first.
It is the next logical step.
Mike
Congrats Larry!!Do you really have 123K on the vehicle, though? That's
10,000 miles a month!
I don't even know if taxi cabs get that much.
Tom
On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 3:29 PM, lvs35 <lvs35@...> wrote:
>
>
> Yes today is the one year anniversary for our 2008 red pkg.5.
> With no planning in advance it is coincidently our wedding anniversary.
> Ayear ago this date, gas was at $4 gal,and we had a 2 month wait on a
> list.We are a senior retired couple and as of today we have 123,000
> most enjoyable miles on I have had no maint problems thus far,(knock on
> wood)I am on a 5000 mile oil change and tire rotation schedule and that
> seems to work for me.So far we have made only one lengthy trip to branson,
> mo. from our home in Joliet ,il.The most miles are accumulated on a av. 500
> mi. a week.On a flying trip to san francisco we were fortunate to rent a
> prius and returned the car in las vegas for the trip home. The rental did
> not have the pkg. 5 options and I really missed them .Things like the hd
> headlights especially. We both really love the choice we made. I have only
> one problem , and that is probably my fault. I could use some tutorial for
> the navigation system. Does some one know of a "navigation explanation for
> dummies"?
> I enjoy reading the comments and questions from the owners.
> For our anniv. I purchased a Prius envy cap for me and a Prius envy T shirt
> for my wife.
>
> Larry
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
They can fail, but it's mostly impossible that all of them fail at the same
time. So yes, I would suspect of whatever is before the leds. And if the
right one is working, you have both ends of the faulty circuit.
Unfortunately, I can't help about where or how to look...
On Fri, Aug 7, 2009 at 14:10, Peter Blackford <PriusPete@...>wrote:
> LEDs can and do fail, despite the long expected life - they are electronic
> components, after all. Your Toyota parts guy can likely find the part, and
> once you see it you may have a better idea how it goes in. Parts may also
> be able to pop a print of the assembly screen which can often be more
> helpful than the service manual.
>
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Steve F <bigisl00@...>
> >Sent: Aug 7, 2009 8:02 AM
> >To: toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [toyota-prius] 2004 Prius Brake Light
> >
> >Left brake light is out on my Prius. There does not appear to be any
> instructions in manual on what to do. Since the LED are suppose to last
> "forever", I assume it is a broken wire or something. Anyone have any
> ideas?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------
> >
> >To access group's website features such as Files, Photos, Links, Database
> and Polls, go to
> >http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-prius
> >, Photos, Links, Database and Polls, go to
> >http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-prius
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To access group's website features such as Files, Photos, Links, Database
> and Polls, go to
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-prius
> , Photos, Links, Database and Polls, go to
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-prius
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
FOLD the seatbelt on a 45 (above the clip), and push the fold thru the
clip....Its kinda a pain in the buttocks, but it can be done!
I've done it myself, and I think it can happen without a person noticing it, as
it seems to just appear one day out of the blue.
--- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, "hankconey" <hankconey@...> wrote:
>
> Hi I own a 2007 Prius and my friend noticed that when I buckle up the seat
belt clip is refersed on the drivers side. This causes the belt to have a twist
when it is put on. I will bring to the dealer this month. I hope they honor as i
have less than 36000 mi. Has anyone had the same problem?
>
> Thanks
>
$200 a pop! Actually sounds like a GREAT price, even if a base Prius.
Batteries are one thing, but the fob itself should hold up to the beating of
daily use.
Call Toyota and ask if they are covered under 3-36, and if not, ask why!
Do you have your receipts? Get them from a Toyota dealer?
--- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, "hankconey" <hankconey@...> wrote:
>
> I have a 2007 Prius and have gone through 2 fob's. The problem is that the
little push buttons stop working. Has anyone else also had this problem? At $200
a pop from the dealer it is getting to be a nuisance.
>
> Thanks
>
Go to www.car-part.com I see hundreds of HV batteries for as low as $800.00
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Schaefer
To: toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 6:03 PM
Subject: [toyota-prius] Re: Clapped out traction battery - news from
dealership
Hi, sorry about the news. I imagine that the most likely 3000/3009 under
your circumstances is electrolyte leakage, metal corrosion, electrical leakage.
The Toyota shop that did the fuel tank would not be my next stop, for sure. If
you seem to need more diagnosing, please find another.
Second, had this vehicle the free HV battery resealing, back in the day? If
not, we may have a toehold.
I suggest you deal with Toyota directly, 800-331-4331, not through (any) shop
intermediary. This has led to better outcomes in the past. However it seems to
me recently that there have been fewer successes with post-warranty claims. Try
anyway.
A new replacement HV battery is the most expensive and surest. Below that, a
used one harvested by salvage dismantlers. Preferably 2003 vintage because
supposedly they were making them better then.
For the highly technically and inexplicably brave, open the danger-box and
resolve the corrosion issue and balance the modules. Or with more modules from
salvage, build up a well-matched battery assembly.
Good luck.
DAS
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm on my third set of MXV4 Primacy. Best tire for quality you can buy. I have
86k on my 2005. Integrity's lasted 20k. Each set of the Primacys last 30k. But
I'm a more aggresive driver than most. My other car is a 2007 G35 Coupe with 6
speed manual and rear wheel steering. I guess I can't adjust down from the G and
drive "Prius" like. The Michelins have so much better handling than the
Integritys. Keep in mind that the trade-off for the LRR tires is a flabby
sidewall. The Integritys sidewall is like an eggshell and I blew one out when I
took a curb a little early. I've done that with the Michelins and no problem.
Yes, the mileage is a little worse. I got 44.9 on the last fill-up. That's good
enough for a compromise. The MXV4 Primacy is THE Premium Michelin tire for the
Prius. The ride is like velvet and there's great traction.
Discount Tire wants nearly $600 for set including the best guarantee in the tire
industry. I've had two Primacys wrecked by road debris. Under the Discount
warranty, two new tires for free.
The Michelin Pilot Sport for the G35 are about $1800 a set. They last 20k. So
the Prius is a low cost per mile for tires. Ask the kid down the street what his
24" tires cost and how long they last. $600 a set is bargain territory.
Stan in San Diego
I'm leaving Friday for San Francisco. I'll tell you what my mileage is on
Wednesday.
----- Original Message -----
From: mbennette22
To: toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 3:27 PM
Subject: [toyota-prius] Any experience with new green tires targeted to the
Prius?
I'm up to replace the Goodyear (non-Integrity) tires on my 2007 Prius
that lasted just 36k miles. I've been doing some research, and it seems
that there are at least 3 tires specifically targeted for hybrid cars
such as the Prius and is advertised to maintain the high MPG and
possibly even improve it, without giving up performance. These tires are
all new for 2009, thus I have not been able to find many reviews or user
feedback on it. I wanted to see if anybody else has purchased tires like
this and what your feedback. I live in California where it's mostly dry,
with about 15" of rain in the winter.
1. Michelin Energy Saver A/S - no mileage warranty but touts up to 8%
improvement for some vehicles
2. Goodyear Assurance Fuel Max - 65k warranty
3. Bridgestone Ecopia EP100 - 50k warranty. Shop was stating some
reviews put this one at the top and may even be the OEM next year.
I have even considered the Michelin Primacy MXV4 which perform well, 60k
warranty, consistently rank first in reviews, and has a good track
record. However the sales guys warn a drop in MPG.
I'm thinking of the Bridgestones because it has the mileage warranty and
cost slightly less than the Goodyears. The Michelins are very tempting
but have no mileage warranty. However Bridgestones in general as a brand
rank lower among reviews.
Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
hi there. Have a 2006 prius and am thinking of driving it to burning man. I
know it'll be exposed to the dusty environment for the drive in and out and
wonder if you think that is too much for it. If I do drive it in, I'd like to
cover it. Do you know of a car cover that would work well? Im considering
http://www.autoanything.com/car-covers/73A4244A0A0.aspx
thanks
Dust? No more or less a problem than for any other car - you may want to change
your engine air filter and possibly the passenger compartment air filter (though
better to use 'recirc' mode more) a little sooner than usual, but that's it.
For the cover, good idea, but be careful how you fold it once it gets dirty so
you don't get dirt on the inside of the cover afterwards. Yes, you will wash
it, but that can be 'interesting' too... some are a little 'too good' at being
waterproof...
Pete.
-----Original Message-----
>From: "DLM ;-)" <magildl@...>
>Sent: Aug 15, 2009 11:13 PM
>To: toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [toyota-prius] car cover for burning man
>
>hi there. Have a 2006 prius and am thinking of driving it to burning man. I
know it'll be exposed to the dusty environment for the drive in and out and
wonder if you think that is too much for it. If I do drive it in, I'd like to
cover it. Do you know of a car cover that would work well? Im considering
http://www.autoanything.com/car-covers/73A4244A0A0.aspx
>
>thanks
>
>
I have had a recent experience with my 2001 Prius that leads me to wonder about
the use of car codes in diagnosing troubles. Briefly my "check engine" light and
triangle came on although the car still operated normally. The mechanic read the
codes, repaired what they indicated, charged me $760, and sent me on my way
thinking that my car was in great condition.
A week later, the triangle and "check engine" light are back on. There is one
other new symptom that developed. My multifunction display has not worked for at
least five years. Everything worked normally except that no data was displayed
on the unit, in particular when I turn on the radio or change stations the back
light comes on and turns off shortly afterward. I have always suspected that the
data line was cut by a rodent but no mechanic that looked for this cut has found
it. What has changed after all these years is that the back light now remains on
all the time.
The general question that I have is how reliable and extensive are codes in
determining malfunctions. Are there functions of the car that are not covered,
e.g. the air conditioning. Both instances of the triangle came about when I left
the air conditioner on with the engine running while shopping here in hot
Arizona with the temperature well above 100.
I'll say that in general the codes "help". But they are not there to
dictate car repairs. Unfortunately this is what a lot of mechanics do (and
it seems the dealerships are generally the worst offenders). I.e. they see
a code, and just do the first thing in the manual. Like the people who get
a "the engine didn't start" code, and the dealership says you need a new gas
tank. When most likely you just need your throttle body/plate cleaned...
No, there are not codes for everything. And the codes can be wrong. It's a
computer and it's only as smart as it's told to be. So if the guy writing
the code told the computer to show code 321 when x, y and z happen, that's
what it's going to do. But it's entirely possibly that there is a "W"
factor that may be causing x, y and z but requires more knowledge than the
computer possesses to figure out.
Levi
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 12:06 PM, sidneybrooks <sidneybrooks@...>wrote:
>
>
> I have had a recent experience with my 2001 Prius that leads me to wonder
> about the use of car codes in diagnosing troubles. Briefly my "check engine"
> light and triangle came on although the car still operated normally. The
> mechanic read the codes, repaired what they indicated, charged me $760, and
> sent me on my way thinking that my car was in great condition.
>
> A week later, the triangle and "check engine" light are back on. There is
> one other new symptom that developed. My multifunction display has not
> worked for at least five years. Everything worked normally except that no
> data was displayed on the unit, in particular when I turn on the radio or
> change stations the back light comes on and turns off shortly afterward. I
> have always suspected that the data line was cut by a rodent but no mechanic
> that looked for this cut has found it. What has changed after all these
> years is that the back light now remains on all the time.
>
> The general question that I have is how reliable and extensive are codes in
> determining malfunctions. Are there functions of the car that are not
> covered, e.g. the air conditioning. Both instances of the triangle came
> about when I left the air conditioner on with the engine running while
> shopping here in hot Arizona with the temperature well above 100.
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 12:06 PM, sidneybrooks <sidneybrooks@...>wrote:
> I have had a recent experience with my 2001 Prius that leads me to wonder
> about the use of car codes in diagnosing troubles. Briefly my "check engine"
> light and triangle came on although the car still operated normally. The
> mechanic read the codes, repaired what they indicated, charged me $760, and
> sent me on my way thinking that my car was in great condition.
>
> A week later, the triangle and "check engine" light are back on. There is
> one other new symptom that developed. My multifunction display has not
> worked for at least five years. Everything worked normally except that no
> data was displayed on the unit, in particular when I turn on the radio or
> change stations the back light comes on and turns off shortly afterward. I
> have always suspected that the data line was cut by a rodent but no mechanic
> that looked for this cut has found it. What has changed after all these
> years is that the back light now remains on all the time.
>
> The general question that I have is how reliable and extensive are codes in
> determining malfunctions. Are there functions of the car that are not
> covered, e.g. the air conditioning. Both instances of the triangle came
> about when I left the air conditioner on with the engine running while
> shopping here in hot Arizona with the temperature well above 100.
>
> The codes, along with a shop manual, are very effective in diagnosing the
problem. However, this requires a lengthy diagnostic process that is beyond
many mechanics. If the codes show that it could be A or B or C or D or E,
lazy mechanics will do all five, and charge your for all 5. Even though the
problem may only be C. For example, the TSB for one of the most common codes
("engine failed to start") has 5 pages of cookbook steps to further narrow
the diagnosis. But the possible causes can be a dirty throttle plate, use of
premium gas, oil in the throttle body (all easy to fix yourself), dirty
injectors (almost as easy), out of date engine control unit (normally
covered by warranty, but $1000 otherwise), fuel pump, leaking gas tank
bladder, gas in the charcoal canister, etc. Some shops will choose the most
expensive (replace the gas tank) or whatever part they have on hand.
You should insist on being told the codes, or go to an independent with a
scanner, or try to find a ecrostech miniscanner that you can use yourself.
They aren't made anymore, but the sometimes show up on eBay or Craig's List.
They were $150 new. I have one, and it is a real boon both to normal driving
and pre-diagnosis before letting the mechanic touch it. the manual lists all
codes and their meanings. Or post the general area you live or visit and see
if any woners in your area have one.
best regards,
Larry
--
Larry Finch
N 40° 53' 47"
W 74° 03' 56"
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Meant for the group I believe:
From on02151blueline:
Try this:
1) With the power on, switch to the odometer/trip-meter to display "ODO".
2) Power OFF (push the "Power" button).
3) Power ON, while holding the button for "ODO".
4) Wait for the reminder light to stop flashing, then release.
While the reset is taking place, you'll see the odometer value change to 5
dashes. Then
each will be disappear, one at a time from the left. When finished, 7 zeroes
will briefly
appear, indicating the process is complete before the previous odometer
mileage returns.
Works up to 2009, should still work on 2010
Also try these links at Priuschat.com:
http://john1701a.com/prius/prius-oilchange.htmhttp://john1701a.com/prius/prius-userguide_iconic.htm
A google search would lead you to a multitude of instructions on just about any
thing you want to do on your car. You could also RTFM.
--- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, "bobjbkln" <bobjbkln@...> wrote:
>
> I'm sure it's in the manual. Have a look.
> --
> Peace,
> BobJ
>
>
> --- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, "postoak4740" <postoak007@> wrote:
> >
> > How can I get rid of the oil maintanance notice on my 2010. I have 6000
miles on it. I change my own oil and filter. Is there any way to make the
numbers larger on the display screen. I have to stare at the disply to read the
odomoter and trip miles while driving.
> >
>
I received notification from Toyota on this issue last week. There are two
difficulties with it. It refers to
malfunction indicator lights with diagnostic codes
P3190 and P3101 with information code 204 or
P3191 and P3101 with information code 205. How in hell
is a Prius owner supposed to know what codes we got
when the codes are not displayed to us, which could
have easily been done in designing the error screen?
However, it includes this sentence, too: "In addition,
your vehicle's engine may exhibit abnormally low power
or may not start even if your 12 volt and Hybrid
batteries are fully charged." Now that has occurred
to me numerous times (abnormally low power associated
with a malfunction light), and I reported it to my
dealer who did nothing about it. That leads to the
second difficulty. The enhancement is offered for
10 years or 120,000 miles. My car is less than 9
years old, but it has just over 120,000 miles on it.
Given that Toyota is acknowledging responsibility
for this problem, it seems to me that the mileage
limit is inappropriate. I will appeal that to them.
Also, I wonder if this could be related to my
replacement of the ICE, which Toyota paid half of.
If so, I will try to collect the other half.
Steve Goldfield
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
This is of general interest, but I use it on my Prius. When I bought the car, I
noted that Toyota equipped it with one of those awful "Emergency Use Only"
doughnut tires. This is, in my opinion, a general practice and a ripoff on a
cheap undersized wheel. The auto companies accomplished several things when they
abandoned the full-sized spare tire and matching fifth wheel:
* They cut their costs in wheels but didn't (Are you kidding?) reduce the
price of new cars.
* They pocketed the difference between the cost of a full-sized tire and the
miniscule cost of the phony midget tire, also not returning their savings to us,
the gullible customers.
* They increased revenues to tire manufacturers (Can you spell "collusion".
through the increased tire wear occasioned by eliminating the five-tire rotation
that increases tire life through the wider broadening of tire wear distribution
over the full width of the tread and increases safety by retaining equal tire
wear in the event of a flat calling for use of the spare. (Add that to low
"recommended" pressures that reduce gas mileage and add to the risk of tire
separation from the wheel on tight turns.)
I bitched about the doughnut and cheesy wheel and then bought a grossly
overpriced matching wheel and fifth matching tire. Now, when I do the 5,000 mile
service, I also do five-tire rotation. Furthermore, I keep all five tires
inflated to the maximum rated pressure (44 PSI in my case), and supply my own
oil -- synthetic. I think this improves care life, safety, and mileage. I know
it improves tire life.
Chuck
P.S.: I found several articles on 5-tire rotation that give alternate rotation
patterns for different vehicle types and I'll be happy to pass the information
on. Write me at chuck.collins@.... Alternate, just Google "5 tire
rotation".
C.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com [mailto:toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of sidneybrooks
> Sent: 16 August 2009 17:06
> To: toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [toyota-prius] Question about car codes
>
> I have had a recent experience with my 2001 Prius that leads me to wonder
> about the use of car codes in diagnosing troubles. Briefly my "check
> engine" light and triangle came on although the car still operated
> normally. The mechanic read the codes, repaired what they indicated,
> charged me $760, and sent me on my way thinking that my car was in great
> condition.
>
> A week later, the triangle and "check engine" light are back on. There is
> one other new symptom that developed. My multifunction display has not
> worked for at least five years. Everything worked normally except that no
> data was displayed on the unit, in particular when I turn on the radio or
> change stations the back light comes on and turns off shortly afterward. I
> have always suspected that the data line was cut by a rodent but no
> mechanic that looked for this cut has found it. What has changed after all
> these years is that the back light now remains on all the time.
I find that the service manual is very well-written and has clear sequences
to test. Some of the tests to verify that a component is working are quite
dumbed-down, though, using only continuity/resistance tests for a sensor
rather than actually checking the output makes sense, which would require an
oscilloscope.
It's also weak in checking basic continuity between ground points - a
complete circuit is required between the sensor and the ECU that reads that
sensor, and most sensors are only directly connected with one dedicated
wire. The return path is then via the vehicle's chassis and/or body, and
even a slightly poor contact or corrosion can result in a difference in
potential between different ground points. This can result in sensor values
being misinterpreted by the ECU. No amount of replacing sensors or ECUs will
fix this issue.
The manual almost never simply says 'replace this part'. It has a list of
other codes to check and resolve first (sometimes it does get a bit Choose
Your Own Adventure, sending you back-and-forth between the same sections),
then to check that the sensors are working correctly, then the component
being sensed and finally the ECU.
Sometimes you need to read between the lines a bit and think of how the
problematic subsystem works, and think of other things that could be wrong.
For example, if the engine is surging, I would consider checking the
transmission input damper, which isn't listed in the diagnostic tree - but
only after checking a number of the things that are listed, because getting
at the damper involves dropping the engine and transaxle out of the car and
separating them, because the damper lives between the two. Dropping the
front subframe also means draining the inverter coolant, disconnecting the
inverter and the engine coolant as well. Not a quick job. There's a tension
between getting to the root cause of the problem and the amount of effort
required to completely verify all possibilities.
Service techs tend to be quite good at the mechanical side, but frankly that
era expired more than ten years ago with the advent of fuel injection and
on-board diagnostics. Now you often need to be an electronic engineer. It's
like a computer network on wheels.
The backlight of the MFD is an integral part of the MFD itself - if the
backlight has stopped working it's most likely a dry joint (at the time of
assembly) has broken and is only making intermittent contact. A dtry joint
is one where the solder didn't make a good alloy with one or both of the
leads or pads on the component and circuit board, leading it to be brittle.
Refurbishing the MFD is tricky since it requires delicate soldering, but it
may still be cheaper than a new unit, which would generally be the service
tech's solution. Most likely the vibration over time has now caused the
components or boards to find a new alignment where they're now making decent
contact again. Hobbit worked through a problem on a 2G MFD here:
http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/mfd/
--
Mike Dimmick
If you have a record of the prior complaints (before the 120,000 miles), you
should be covered.
--
Peace,
BobJ
--- In toyota-prius@yahoogroups.com, Steve Goldfield <stevesage@...> wrote:
>
> I received notification from Toyota on this issue last week. There are two
difficulties with it. It refers to
> malfunction indicator lights with diagnostic codes
> P3190 and P3101 with information code 204 or
> P3191 and P3101 with information code 205. How in hell
> is a Prius owner supposed to know what codes we got
> when the codes are not displayed to us, which could
> have easily been done in designing the error screen?
> However, it includes this sentence, too: "In addition,
> your vehicle's engine may exhibit abnormally low power
> or may not start even if your 12 volt and Hybrid
> batteries are fully charged." Now that has occurred
> to me numerous times (abnormally low power associated
> with a malfunction light), and I reported it to my
> dealer who did nothing about it. That leads to the
> second difficulty. The enhancement is offered for
> 10 years or 120,000 miles. My car is less than 9
> years old, but it has just over 120,000 miles on it.
> Given that Toyota is acknowledging responsibility
> for this problem, it seems to me that the mileage
> limit is inappropriate. I will appeal that to them.
> Also, I wonder if this could be related to my
> replacement of the ICE, which Toyota paid half of.
> If so, I will try to collect the other half.
>
> Steve Goldfield
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
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