Richard

I took you up on your suggestion and I dug out my old rotor to
experiment with. I set my digital voltage meter to the OHM category
and set it to the lowest available which was 20 ohms. I checked with
the two test leads the continuity on both slip rings. This reading
was 3.5. I then tested from each slip ring to the outer housing and
that did not move from reading 1.

Is 3.5 OHMS a decent reading for the old rotor? According to some
sites out there on the net with testing rotors and the continuity
between the slip rings, the normal reading is 3ohms-4ohms. I thought
I read that the Chang rotor should be 6.5 ohms for a good rotor?

Thanks for your help!

Rob

--- In thechangjiangexperience@yahoogroups.com, Richard Cook
<cookiecookr@...> wrote:
>
> Usually an alternator or generator has brass sections that the
brushes ride on. I believe these are usually called slip rings. In
the test Gary recommended you would have to insulate the brushes from
the slip rings by using something like a wire tie.
> You have a spare rotor don't you? Practice the test for continuity
on that one and then try it on the one on the bike.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard
>
> --- On Thu, 1/1/09, widowactor <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> From: widowactor <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [the Chang Jiang Experience] 1968 M1M 24P Flathead-
New charging issue
> To: thechangjiangexperience@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, January 1, 2009, 4:35 PM
>
>
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> Richard
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>
>
> I have checked the connections for the charging light and all looks
>
> normal. I have compared my wiring harness on the new diode board
and
>
> the old one. The colors are of course different and I have to take
>
> the main wire with the main fuse out of the old harness and slide
>
> that connection into the new harness. Other than that all I have to
>
> do is match the wires to the old harness and the diode board can no
>
> longer be a cause of the charging issue.
>
>
>
> The next tests I want to do is with the rotor but I am a little
>
> confused on that test Gary said to do. I am not familar with some
of
>
> the terminology such as the "slip rings".
>
>
>
> Thnaks for your help.
>
>
>
> Rob
>
>
>
> --- In thechangjiangexperi ence@yahoogroups .com, Richard Cook
>
> <cookiecookr@ ...> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Rob,
>
> >
>
> > Basically we are going to have to go back for some of those old
>
> posts that list how to test things. Start out by checking
connections
>
> and testing for charging.
>
> > I think the next thing I'd do is compare the diode boards to each
>
> other ans switch them if it is easy.
>
> > Be sure all the connections to the regulator are good.
>
> >
>
> > Regards,
>
> >
>
> > Richard
>
> >
>
> > --- On Wed, 12/31/08, widowactor <no_reply@yahoogroup s.com>
wrote:
>
> > From: widowactor <no_reply@yahoogroup s.com>
>
> > Subject: Re: [the Chang Jiang Experience] 1968 M1M 24P Flathead-
>
> New charging issue
>
> > To: thechangjiangexperi ence@yahoogroups .com
>
> > Date: Wednesday, December 31, 2008, 7:54 PM
>
> >
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> >
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> > Richard
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> > As far as testing the alternator, the only test I know how to
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> perform
>
> >
>
> > would be to connect my voltage meter to the battery and rev the
>
> >
>
> > throttle to see what output I am receiving. I did find some tests
>
> >
>
> > listed on the group archive like the "rotor quick test". Is there
>
> some
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> >
>
> > other tests I should do?
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> >
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> >
>
> >
>
> > I do have a new diode board ready to go. I wonder though if the
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> color
>
> >
>
> > coded wires or pin outs are the same on my new diode board verses
>
> the
>
> >
>
> > old? If they are not the same how can I identify the right wires
to
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> >
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> > match from old to new?
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> >
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> >
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> >
>
> > Thanks again for helping me with my ongoing bike battle. Haha
>
> >
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> >
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> >
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> > Rob
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