Usually an alternator or generator has brass sections that the brushes ride on.
I believe these are usually called slip rings. In the test Gary recommended you
would have to insulate the brushes from the slip rings by using something like a
wire tie.
You have a spare rotor don't you? Practice the test for continuity on that one
and then try it on the one on the bike.

Regards,

Richard

--- On Thu, 1/1/09, widowactor <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
From: widowactor <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [the Chang Jiang Experience] 1968 M1M 24P Flathead- New charging
issue
To: thechangjiangexperience@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, January 1, 2009, 4:35 PM











Richard



I have checked the connections for the charging light and all looks

normal. I have compared my wiring harness on the new diode board and

the old one. The colors are of course different and I have to take

the main wire with the main fuse out of the old harness and slide

that connection into the new harness. Other than that all I have to

do is match the wires to the old harness and the diode board can no

longer be a cause of the charging issue.



The next tests I want to do is with the rotor but I am a little

confused on that test Gary said to do. I am not familar with some of

the terminology such as the "slip rings".



Thnaks for your help.



Rob



--- In thechangjiangexperi ence@yahoogroups .com, Richard Cook

<cookiecookr@ ...> wrote:

>

> Rob,

>

> Basically we are going to have to go back for some of those old

posts that list how to test things. Start out by checking connections

and testing for charging.

> I think the next thing I'd do is compare the diode boards to each

other ans switch them if it is easy.

> Be sure all the connections to the regulator are good.

>

> Regards,

>

> Richard

>

> --- On Wed, 12/31/08, widowactor <no_reply@yahoogroup s.com> wrote:

> From: widowactor <no_reply@yahoogroup s.com>

> Subject: Re: [the Chang Jiang Experience] 1968 M1M 24P Flathead-

New charging issue

> To: thechangjiangexperi ence@yahoogroups .com

> Date: Wednesday, December 31, 2008, 7:54 PM

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

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>

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> Richard

>

>

>

> As far as testing the alternator, the only test I know how to

perform

>

> would be to connect my voltage meter to the battery and rev the

>

> throttle to see what output I am receiving. I did find some tests

>

> listed on the group archive like the "rotor quick test". Is there

some

>

> other tests I should do?

>

>

>

> I do have a new diode board ready to go. I wonder though if the

color

>

> coded wires or pin outs are the same on my new diode board verses

the

>

> old? If they are not the same how can I identify the right wires to

>

> match from old to new?

>

>

>

> Thanks again for helping me with my ongoing bike battle. Haha

>

>

>

> Rob

>

>

>

>

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>

>

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>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>





























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