You can try bypassing the control valve and just run the hoses straight to the
heater core.  That will tell you if it's plugged or stuck closed.  If that
doesn't change anything, then chances are your heater core is plugged up.  Keep
us posted.
 
-Adam

--- On Sun, 12/7/08, Tim King <TDKing@...> wrote:

From: Tim King <TDKing@...>
Subject: RE: [team-g-force] no heat
To: baddis_1@..., daytonaperformance@yahoogroups.com,
team-g-force@yahoogroups.com, thechryslerlebaronclub@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, December 7, 2008, 9:30 AM






Are these things vacuum-operated? Did you check all the vacuum lines? I
had a similar problem in my '03 RAM van. The line had come off the vacuum
can under the hood.

TD
Upstate NY
86 Daytona 2.2L TBI 5spd
66 Barracuda 273 Auto
03 RAM 1500 Cargo Van 5.2L
94 Concorde 3.5L
95 H-D FXDL


-----Original Message-----
From: team-g-force@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:team-g-force@ yahoogroups. com] On
Behalf Of brian addis
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 6:15 PM
To: daytonaperformance@ yahoogroups. com; team-g-force@ yahoogroups. com;
thechryslerlebaronc lub@yahoogroups. com
Subject: [team-g-force] no heat

i had to get my 89 daytona out due to a trans issue with my truck. i got the
daytona out and running and turned the heat on and it didn't work. i checked
the radiator and it was full. i replaced the thermostat and still no heat.
checked the heater control valve and have no heat in either posistion. the
lines at the fire wall are ice cold as well. is it possable the heater
control is bad or something more?

00 mustang
88 ford ranger stx 4x4 highrider
89 t top daytona 2.5 t2
88 lebaron convertable 2.5 t2

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Are these things vacuum-operated?  Did you check all the vacuum lines?  I
had a similar problem in my '03 RAM van.  The line had come off the vacuum
can under the hood.

TD
Upstate NY
86 Daytona 2.2L TBI 5spd
66 Barracuda 273 Auto
03 RAM 1500 Cargo Van 5.2L
94 Concorde 3.5L
95 H-D FXDL


-----Original Message-----
From: team-g-force@yahoogroups.com [mailto:team-g-force@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of brian addis
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 6:15 PM
To: daytonaperformance@yahoogroups.com; team-g-force@yahoogroups.com;
thechryslerlebaronclub@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [team-g-force] no heat



i had to get my 89 daytona out due to a trans issue with my truck. i got the
daytona out and running and turned the heat on and it didn't work. i checked
the radiator and it was full. i replaced the thermostat and still no heat.
checked the heater control valve and have no heat in either posistion. the
lines at the fire wall are ice cold as well. is it possable the heater
control is bad or something more?

00 mustang
88 ford ranger stx 4x4 highrider
89 t top daytona 2.5 t2
88 lebaron convertable 2.5 t2

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

i had to get my 89 daytona out due to a trans issue with my truck. i got the
daytona out and running and turned the heat on and it didn't work. i checked the
radiator and it was full. i replaced the thermostat and still no heat. checked
the heater control valve and have no heat in either posistion. the lines at the
fire wall are ice cold as well. is it possable the heater control is bad or
something more?

00 mustang
88 ford ranger stx 4x4 highrider
89 t top daytona 2.5 t2
88 lebaron convertable 2.5 t2




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Folks...

I'm in need of a FSM for an '86 non-turbo Daytona.  More specifically, I
need wiring diagrams covering the TPS and associated harness.  I looked over
my Haynes book, but it doesn't seem to have what I'm after.  Can anyone
assist?

TIA,
Tim
Upstate NY
86 Daytona 2.2L 5spd
66 Barracuda 273 auto
94 Concorde 3.5LHO
03 RAM 1500 Cargo Van
95 H-D FXDL


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

today on my way to work i was pulling up to a stop sign and heard a pop like a
fuse. the gauges went funny then quit working. as i stopped the engine quit.
when i tried to restart it i had nothing at the key. the headlights,windows, and
4 way flashers still work. is there a fuse that is not in the fuse block? the
car is an 89 daytona es with a 2.5 t1.


98 grand prix gt
88 ford ranger stx 4x4 highrider
89 t top daytona 2.5 t2
88 lebaron convertable 2.5 t2


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am looking for an 84-86 Daytona rolling chasis/project car with a
solid floor, quarters and rockers.  I currently have an '86 Daytona
that I have owned for many years and put alot of time and money into
to build the '88 TII drivetrain, but recently, much to my dismay,
found a fair amount of cancer on the driver's side rocker panel and
inside the quarter panel.  I would like to find another chassis to
transplant my drivetrain/suspension/interior(if needed) into.  I live
in the southwestern PA (about 30 miles east of Pittsburgh) area, but
would be willing to cover a pretty decent range for the right car.  I
would also entertain the thought of a third gen (92-93) rolling
chassis or car should one be available.

                              Thank you in advance,
                              Jason Havash

OK, list...  I've replaced the throttle position sensor and I'm still
getting a code 24 from the computer.  What are the components of the trottle
position circuit that I should be looking at?

Thanks,
Tim


-----Original Message-----
From: Tim King [mailto:tdking@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 11:35 AM
To: 'team-g-force@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: Not so ready for the season


Ah...  Fortunately (or not) I have drum rears.  Well, I finally had an
afternoon free to play around with this thing.  So, discovering that I
needed to know whether I had two bolts or one bolt and a slider, I decided
to find out first hand and try to clean up the assembly, if possible.  I
discovered I have two slider bolts.  I hadn't taken a look at these calipers
yet, so I found it interesting.  The older calipers that I remember had a
large metal-to-metal slide area.  These, with the spring clip outboard and
the two slider bolts  really minimize the sliding contact area.  I found the
bolts to be quite gummed up.  I don't know if that would have been enough to
make them stick, but I cleaned them anyway.  I was unable to really road
test, however.  Expired inspection sticker and Power Limited had me
concerned.  The code of significance in the list returned by the 5x on
procedure would be the code 24, Throttle position circuit.  Where do I begin
to track that down?!  I did note that while I had it idling in the driveway,
it did kind of bump up spontaneously to about 2K RPM, then again to 2500 RPM
after that.  I suspected a problem and decided to try to reset the computer
by disconnecting the battery.  I left it disconnected for a good 30-60
minutes while I went on to do something else.  I recalled that I got "The
Light" the last time I was out with it, too, so this is a carryover from
that time out.  Apparently, it's not going to cure itself!  <LOL>  Another
observation is that it wants to cut out coming off idle.  Real bad
hesitation when I bump the throttle.  First step, get it to the shop to get
it inspected, I guess.  I don't have any desire to help subsidize our local
legal system's finances.

Tim
Upstate NY
86 Daytona 2.2L Non-turbo 5spd
66 Barracuda 273 CID Auto
94 Concorde 3.5L HO Auto
03 RAM Cargo Van 5.2L Auto
95 H-D FXDL 1340cc 5spd


-----Original Message-----
From: team-g-force@yahoogroups.com [mailto:team-g-force@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Adam Steffen
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 10:58 PM
To: team-g-force@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [team-g-force] Getting ready for the season



Yeah, front calipers are pretty cheap. It's the rears
that will kill ya.

-supercrackerbox

--- colwell82@aol. <mailto:colwell82%40aol.com> com wrote:

>
>
> personally, I'd just put a newer rebuilt
>
>
> ?caliper on. They were pretty cheap at the parts
> store when I put new ones on 3 years ago. I'm used
> to spending big bucks for my GM parts, so when they
> told me the calipers were only like $25 (I can't
> remember exactly how much, it was 3 years ago!) I
> was pretty happy to buy rebuilt units!
>
>
>
> Matt
>
>
> Colwell
>
>
>
> 86 T-Top Turbo~
> Z
>
>
>
>
> 86 Turbo~
> Z "Project: Daytona"
>
>
>
>
> 02 S~10
> 4X4
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim King <TDKing@prodigy. <mailto:TDKing%40prodigy.net> net>
> To: 'G-Force-Daytona' <team-g-force@
<mailto:team-g-force%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 7:28 pm
> Subject: RE: [team-g-force] Getting ready for the
> season
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Well, list, guess what! It wasn't the starter, nor
> was it the relay! It
> was the $%^&*&^% battery. My jumpstarter must have
> been too low to boost
> it. How did I discover this? Why, by jumpstarting it
> with a running
> vehicle, of course. The battery wouldn't hold a
> charge though. So, I went
> out a bought a new one and it's been great so far.
> Now for problem number
> two. (You knew there had to be a number two, right?)
> Once I got it
> started, I took 'er out for a ride. Drove around for
> about an hour.
> Finally, all that drivin' got me hungry so I pulled
> in for some fast food.
> Picked it up, got in the ride and started home with
> my bag of fat and
> calories. I thought it odd that it was slowing down
> so quickly without
> braking when I pushed the clutch in until I very
> quickly thought to
> myself... "I'll bet I've got a brake hanging up."
> Sure enough, the right
> front caliper is stickin'. So, List, what say you
> all? Tear down the right
> front corner and clean it up or just go for a new
> caliper? Inquiring minds
> are, well, inquiring...
>
> Tim
> 86 Daytona 2.2L TBI 5spd
> 66 Barracuda 273 2V auto
> 94 Concorde 3.5L
> 03 RAM B1500 Cargo Van 5.2L EFI
> 95 H-D FXDL
>
>
>
>
> Visit Your Group
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
>
>
>
> Dodge car
>
> Dodge vehicle
>
> Dodge body part
>
> Dodge dakota sport
>
> G-body
>
>
>
>
>
> Health Zone
>
> Look your best!
>
> Groups to help you
>
> look & feel great.
>
>
>
> Share Photos
>
> Put your favorite
>
> photos and
>
> more online.
>
>
>
>
> Official
>
>
> Samsung
>
> Yahoo! Group for
>
> supporting your
>
>
>
>
>
> HDTVs and devices.
>
>
>
>
> .
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out
> more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

__________________________________________________________Ready for the edge
of your seat?
Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo. <http://tv.yahoo.com/> com/






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Good information!  Thanks.  I didn't know the MAP sensor played into limp-in
mode, but then, I never had a reason to care before.  :-)  I suspect I will
be making more use of your site.  Nice job.

(Now if I could just figure out how to post to this list without having to
go through Yahoo's web site!  It didn't used to be this way.  When did all
that change?!)

Tim


-----Original Message-----
From: Rodney Enis [mailto:shelby_mutt@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 9:18 AM
To: daytona_tim57
Subject: Re: [team-g-force] Re: Code 24 woes


http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/

daytona_tim57 <TDKing@...> wrote:

Anybody home? Is this list dead? Still haven't cleared this code...

--- In team-g-force@ <mailto:team-g-force%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "daytona_tim57" <TDKing@...>
wrote:
>
> OK, list... I've replaced the throttle position sensor and I'm
still
> getting a code 24 from the computer. What are the components of the
> trottle position circuit that I should be looking at?
>
> BTW, would anyone know why messages sent from my regular mailer
aren't
> getting through to the list? I've sent a couple out and they
haven't
> come back through the list. I'm posting this from the groups web
site.
>
> Thanks,
> Tim
>







The Rebirth of MUTT



   _____

Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims  <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48224/*http://sims.yahoo.com/>
Stories at Yahoo! Games.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

See in context below...

-----Original Message-----
From: Crzymilkman@... [mailto:Crzymilkman@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 3:26 PM
To: TDKing@...
Subject: Re: [team-g-force] Re: Code 24 woes



Tim,

The list isn't completely dead, just doesn't see the traffic that it used
to.
tdk:  You're telling me!  It used to be crazy busy!  Hellabusy!

As for the 24, if you've replaced the TPS and are still seeing the code,
then I would start tracking those wires back into the main harness looking
for a break or doublecheck that the wires are in the proper spots in the
connector (ask me how I know this one).
tdk:  I will confess that I didn't change out the sensor myself.  A trusted
shop did the work.  They claim that once the sensor was replaced, they could
track the throttle on the computer from closed to WOT and back.  The fact
that they could track the throttle position suggests the wires are
reconnected in the proper configuration, but I suppose it's possible that
they aren't.  Given your parenthetical comment, I assume you've mixed 'em up
yourself.  I would expect that this would be a keyed connection if it really
matters, but Ma Mopar may have missed the boat on that.  You wouldn't happen
to recall which wire goes where, would you?  I don't have a FSM for this
vehicle.  (I've since learned my lesson.  I now own one for the '03 B1500
Cargo Van and the '95 FXDL.)  I suppose the other possibility is that the
new sensor has also become dysfunctional, which would be unfortunate.

How does the car run since you replaced the TPS?  Any change at all?
tdk:  No.  Seems to stumble real bad between just off cold and fully warmed
up (in fact, it's almost undrivable), then it seems to smooth out, pretty
much rather suddenly.  Idle speed seems to fluctuate slightly while it's
sittin' in the driveway warming up.  At one point before I brought it in to
the shop, the idle speed jumped up to near 1500 RPM, sat there for a while,
then bounced up a couple more hundred RPM.  It never dropped off.  I had to
shut it down.  I know this thing was prone to doing that while free rolling,
like when coming to a stop or coasting in heavy traffic with the clutch in,
but that's more of a momentary thing, like an RPM bump.  I understand that
was a quirk of the programming in '86, or at least, that's what I was told
by one dealership, anyway.  Something about the emissions controls. They
claimed they actually simulated it by spinning the speedo cable with the car
running on a lift.

If it runs better, but still has the code then I must ask if you've cleared
the code from the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a
few minutes.
tdk:  The claim is that this has been done.  Several times, in fact.  Easy
enough to redo, however, and certainly worth the effort.  I'll try it.

Just trying to cover most of the bases since I'm sure that some of us have
all missed some of the simplest things when troubleshooting a problem and
then realized what we missed some time later.  Let us know how you make out.

tdk:  Thanks.  Will do.  Between this post and the post before it, I gather,
then, that the only components in this circuit, other than the brain, is the
TPS and the MAP sensor, since the MAP sensor is used if the TPS is hosed.

tdk:  Stayed tuned.  I'll post my findings and/or results.  Glad to hear the
list isn't dead!  Thanks much!

Tim Reid
Rustburg, Va.

83.5 Shelby Charger
84 Horizon
85 Shelby Charger
86 Turismo
89 LeBaron convertible
89 LeBaron coupe
90 Daytona ES
04 Grand Caravan




   _____

Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL.com
<http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour/?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000982> .



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Anybody home?  Is this list dead?  Still haven't cleared this code...

--- In team-g-force@yahoogroups.com, "daytona_tim57" <TDKing@...>
wrote:
>
> OK, list...  I've replaced the throttle position sensor and I'm
still
> getting a code 24 from the computer.  What are the components of the
> trottle position circuit that I should be looking at?
>
> BTW, would anyone know why messages sent from my regular mailer
aren't
> getting through to the list?  I've sent a couple out and they
haven't
> come back through the list.  I'm posting this from the groups web
site.
>
> Thanks,
> Tim
>

Is there anyone interested in a strut bar for the Dodge Omni GLHS, Dodge Shelby
Charger and GLHS, Daytona Shelby or Shelby Lancer or Shelby CSX? ect...? I have
strut tower braces being made in the factory with a custom design for our cars.
If interested. contact me here...I will offer a group discount rate to our other
members next month when they are ready. I am not taking orders at this time but
I just wanted to let you guys know if your still looking for this part...

MikeCombs66
Ebay

President
Worldwide Importing Network, Inc.
Miami, FL. 33130

American Airlines
Avionics Systems Technician
Miami, Fl. 33130


      
________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Shape Yahoo! in your own image.  Join our Network Research Panel today!  
http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

OK, list...  I've replaced the throttle position sensor and I'm still
getting a code 24 from the computer.  What are the components of the
trottle position circuit that I should be looking at?

BTW, would anyone know why messages sent from my regular mailer aren't
getting through to the list?  I've sent a couple out and they haven't
come back through the list.  I'm posting this from the groups web site.

Thanks,
Tim

Ah...  Fortunately (or not) I have drum rears.  Well, I finally had an
afternoon free to play around with this thing.  So, discovering that I
needed to know whether I had two bolts or one bolt and a slider, I decided
to find out first hand and try to clean up the assembly, if possible.  I
discovered I have two slider bolts.  I hadn't taken a look at these calipers
yet, so I found it interesting.  The older calipers that I remember had a
large metal-to-metal slide area.  These, with the spring clip outboard and
the two slider bolts  really minimize the sliding contact area.  I found the
bolts to be quite gummed up.  I don't know if that would have been enough to
make them stick, but I cleaned them anyway.  I was unable to really road
test, however.  Expired inspection sticker and Power Limited had me
concerned.  The code of significance in the list returned by the 5x on
procedure would be the code 24, Throttle position circuit.  Where do I begin
to track that down?!  I did note that while I had it idling in the driveway,
it did kind of bump up spontaneously to about 2K RPM, then again to 2500 RPM
after that.  I suspected a problem and decided to try to reset the computer
by disconnecting the battery.  I left it disconnected for a good 30-60
minutes while I went on to do something else.  I recalled that I got "The
Light" the last time I was out with it, too, so this is a carryover from
that time out.  Apparently, it's not going to cure itself!  <LOL>  Another
observation is that it wants to cut out coming off idle.  Real bad
hesitation when I bump the throttle.  First step, get it to the shop to get
it inspected, I guess.  I don't have any desire to help subsidize our local
legal system's finances.

Tim
Upstate NY
86 Daytona 2.2L Non-turbo 5spd
66 Barracuda 273 CID Auto
94 Concorde 3.5L HO Auto
03 RAM Cargo Van 5.2L Auto
95 H-D FXDL 1340cc 5spd


-----Original Message-----
From: team-g-force@yahoogroups.com [mailto:team-g-force@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Adam Steffen
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 10:58 PM
To: team-g-force@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [team-g-force] Getting ready for the season



Yeah, front calipers are pretty cheap. It's the rears
that will kill ya.

-supercrackerbox

--- colwell82@aol. <mailto:colwell82%40aol.com> com wrote:

>
>
> personally, I'd just put a newer rebuilt
>
>
> ?caliper on. They were pretty cheap at the parts
> store when I put new ones on 3 years ago. I'm used
> to spending big bucks for my GM parts, so when they
> told me the calipers were only like $25 (I can't
> remember exactly how much, it was 3 years ago!) I
> was pretty happy to buy rebuilt units!
>
>
>
> Matt
>
>
> Colwell
>
>
>
> 86 T-Top Turbo~
> Z
>
>
>
>
> 86 Turbo~
> Z "Project: Daytona"
>
>
>
>
> 02 S~10
> 4X4
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim King <TDKing@prodigy. <mailto:TDKing%40prodigy.net> net>
> To: 'G-Force-Daytona' <team-g-force@
<mailto:team-g-force%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 7:28 pm
> Subject: RE: [team-g-force] Getting ready for the
> season
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Well, list, guess what! It wasn't the starter, nor
> was it the relay! It
> was the $%^&*&^% battery. My jumpstarter must have
> been too low to boost
> it. How did I discover this? Why, by jumpstarting it
> with a running
> vehicle, of course. The battery wouldn't hold a
> charge though. So, I went
> out a bought a new one and it's been great so far.
> Now for problem number
> two. (You knew there had to be a number two, right?)
> Once I got it
> started, I took 'er out for a ride. Drove around for
> about an hour.
> Finally, all that drivin' got me hungry so I pulled
> in for some fast food.
> Picked it up, got in the ride and started home with
> my bag of fat and
> calories. I thought it odd that it was slowing down
> so quickly without
> braking when I pushed the clutch in until I very
> quickly thought to
> myself... "I'll bet I've got a brake hanging up."
> Sure enough, the right
> front caliper is stickin'. So, List, what say you
> all? Tear down the right
> front corner and clean it up or just go for a new
> caliper? Inquiring minds
> are, well, inquiring...
>
> Tim
> 86 Daytona 2.2L TBI 5spd
> 66 Barracuda 273 2V auto
> 94 Concorde 3.5L
> 03 RAM B1500 Cargo Van 5.2L EFI
> 95 H-D FXDL
>
>
>
>
> Visit Your Group
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
>
>
>
> Dodge car
>
> Dodge vehicle
>
> Dodge body part
>
> Dodge dakota sport
>
> G-body
>
>
>
>
>
> Health Zone
>
> Look your best!
>
> Groups to help you
>
> look & feel great.
>
>
>
> Share Photos
>
> Put your favorite
>
> photos and
>
> more online.
>
>
>
>
> Official
>
>
> Samsung
>
> Yahoo! Group for
>
> supporting your
>
>
>
>
>
> HDTVs and devices.
>
>
>
>
> .
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out
> more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

__________________________________________________________Ready for the edge
of your seat?
Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo. <http://tv.yahoo.com/> com/






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yeah, front calipers are pretty cheap.  It's the rears
that will kill ya.

-supercrackerbox

--- colwell82@... wrote:

>
>
> personally, I'd just put a newer rebuilt
>
>
> ?caliper on. They were pretty cheap at the parts
> store when I put new ones on 3 years ago. I'm used
> to spending big bucks for my GM parts, so when they
> told me the calipers were only like $25 (I can't
> remember exactly how much, it was 3 years ago!) I
> was pretty happy to buy rebuilt units!
>
>
>
> Matt
>
>
> Colwell
>
>
>
> 86 T-Top Turbo~
> Z
>
>
>
>
> 86 Turbo~
> Z "Project: Daytona"
>
>
>
>
> 02 S~10
> 4X4
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim King <TDKing@...>
> To: 'G-Force-Daytona' <team-g-force@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 7:28 pm
> Subject: RE: [team-g-force] Getting ready for the
> season
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Well, list, guess what! It wasn't the starter, nor
> was it the relay! It
> was the $%^&*&^% battery. My jumpstarter must have
> been too low to boost
> it. How did I discover this? Why, by jumpstarting it
> with a running
> vehicle, of course. The battery wouldn't hold a
> charge though. So, I went
> out a bought a new one and it's been great so far.
> Now for problem number
> two. (You knew there had to be a number two, right?)
> Once I got it
> started, I took 'er out for a ride. Drove around for
> about an hour.
> Finally, all that drivin' got me hungry so I pulled
> in for some fast food.
> Picked it up, got in the ride and started home with
> my bag of fat and
> calories. I thought it odd that it was slowing down
> so quickly without
> braking when I pushed the clutch in until I very
> quickly thought to
> myself... "I'll bet I've got a brake hanging up."
> Sure enough, the right
> front caliper is stickin'. So, List, what say you
> all? Tear down the right
> front corner and clean it up or just go for a new
> caliper? Inquiring minds
> are, well, inquiring...
>
> Tim
> 86 Daytona 2.2L TBI 5spd
> 66 Barracuda 273 2V auto
> 94 Concorde 3.5L
> 03 RAM B1500 Cargo Van 5.2L EFI
> 95 H-D FXDL
>
>
>
>
> Visit Your Group
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
>
>
>
> Dodge car
>
> Dodge vehicle
>
> Dodge body part
>
> Dodge dakota sport
>
> G-body
>
>
>
>
>
> Health Zone
>
> Look your best!
>
> Groups to help you
>
> look & feel great.
>
>
>
> Share Photos
>
> Put your favorite
>
> photos and
>
> more online.
>
>
>
>
> Official
>
>
> Samsung
>
> Yahoo! Group for
>
> supporting your
>
>
>
>
>
> HDTVs and devices.
>
>
>
>
> .
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out
> more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




________________________________________________________________________________\
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Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
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personally, I'd just put a newer rebuilt


?caliper on. They were pretty cheap at the parts store when I put new ones on 3
years ago. I'm used to spending big bucks for my GM parts, so when they told me
the calipers were only like $25 (I can't remember exactly how much, it was 3
years ago!) I was pretty happy to buy rebuilt units!



Matt


Colwell



86 T-Top Turbo~
Z




86 Turbo~
Z "Project: Daytona"




02 S~10
4X4


-----Original Message-----
From: Tim King <TDKing@...>
To: 'G-Force-Daytona' <team-g-force@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, 2 Jul 2007 7:28 pm
Subject: RE: [team-g-force] Getting ready for the season








Well, list, guess what! It wasn't the starter, nor was it the relay! It
was the $%^&*&^% battery. My jumpstarter must have been too low to boost
it. How did I discover this? Why, by jumpstarting it with a running
vehicle, of course. The battery wouldn't hold a charge though. So, I went
out a bought a new one and it's been great so far. Now for problem number
two. (You knew there had to be a number two, right?) Once I got it
started, I took 'er out for a ride. Drove around for about an hour.
Finally, all that drivin' got me hungry so I pulled in for some fast food.
Picked it up, got in the ride and started home with my bag of fat and
calories. I thought it odd that it was slowing down so quickly without
braking when I pushed the clutch in until I very quickly thought to
myself... "I'll bet I've got a brake hanging up." Sure enough, the right
front caliper is stickin'. So, List, what say you all? Tear down the right
front corner and clean it up or just go for a new caliper? Inquiring minds
are, well, inquiring...

Tim
86 Daytona 2.2L TBI 5spd
66 Barracuda 273 2V auto
94 Concorde 3.5L
03 RAM B1500 Cargo Van 5.2L EFI
95 H-D FXDL




Visit Your Group

SPONSORED LINKS



Dodge car

Dodge vehicle

Dodge body part

Dodge dakota sport

G-body





Health Zone

Look your best!

Groups to help you

look & feel great.



Share Photos

Put your favorite

photos and

more online.




Official


Samsung

Yahoo! Group for

supporting your





HDTVs and devices.




.




________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL
at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Well, list, guess what!  It wasn't the starter, nor was it the relay!  It
was the $%^&*&^% battery.  My jumpstarter must have been too low to boost
it.  How did I discover this?  Why, by jumpstarting it with a running
vehicle, of course.  The battery wouldn't hold a charge though.  So, I went
out a bought a new one and it's been great so far.  Now for problem number
two.  (You knew there had to be a number two, right?)  Once I got it
started, I took 'er out for a ride.  Drove around for about an hour.
Finally, all that drivin' got me hungry so I pulled in for some fast food.
Picked it up, got in the ride and started home with my bag of fat and
calories.  I thought it odd that it was slowing down so quickly without
braking when I pushed the clutch in until I very quickly thought to
myself...  "I'll bet I've got a brake hanging up."  Sure enough, the right
front caliper is stickin'.  So, List, what say you all?  Tear down the right
front corner and clean it up or just go for a new caliper?  Inquiring minds
are, well, inquiring...

Tim
86 Daytona 2.2L TBI 5spd
66 Barracuda 273 2V auto
94 Concorde 3.5L
03 RAM B1500 Cargo Van 5.2L EFI
95 H-D FXDL


-----Original Message-----
From: team-g-force@yahoogroups.com [mailto:team-g-force@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Tim King
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 10:41 AM
To: G-Force-Daytona
Subject: RE: [team-g-force] Getting ready for the season



I'm guessing the most expedient solution, then, would be to have another
starter assembly ready to go up in place of the faulty one. It figures it
would be the solenoid. The relay would be too easy! Still, at $10 for the
relay, I should probably verify that first.

Thanks for the feedback. Nice to see the list is still alive.

Tim

| -----Original Message-----
| From: theleonard@netzero. <mailto:theleonard%40netzero.net> net
[mailto:theleonard@netzero. <mailto:theleonard%40netzero.net> net]
| Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2007 11:04 PM
| To: TDKing@prodigy. <mailto:TDKing%40prodigy.net> net
| Subject: Re: [team-g-force] Getting ready for the season
|
|
| Tim,
|
| I just had a similar issue with an 86 Laser XT t1 and it
| turned out to be the solenoid on the started was bad. I did
| not notice a single click though. I could tell I was
| dropping voltage when the ignition switch made so I presumed
| the relay was good (I actually swapped it out with an extra I
| had just to verify.
| Although I had to wait a day for the autoparts store to get
| the $35 part, the worst part was removing the solenoid from
| the starter had to use heat on the screw heads unfortunately.
|
| Good Luck,
|
| Shawn
|







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm guessing the most expedient solution, then, would be to have another
starter assembly ready to go up in place of the faulty one.  It figures it
would be the solenoid.  The relay would be too easy!  Still, at $10 for the
relay, I should probably verify that first.

Thanks for the feedback.  Nice to see the list is still alive.

Tim

| -----Original Message-----
| From: theleonard@... [mailto:theleonard@...]
| Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2007 11:04 PM
| To: TDKing@...
| Subject: Re: [team-g-force] Getting ready for the season
|
|
| Tim,
|
| I just had a similar issue with an 86 Laser XT t1 and it
| turned out to be the solenoid on the started was bad. I did
| not notice a single click though.  I could tell I was
| dropping voltage when the ignition switch made so I presumed
| the relay was good (I actually swapped it out with an extra I
| had just to verify.
| Although I had to wait a day for the autoparts store to get
| the $35 part, the worst part was removing the solenoid from
| the starter had to use heat  on the screw heads unfortunately.
|
| Good Luck,
|
| Shawn
|

Group...

Went to start my '86 non-turbo Daytona this season.  Battery's been on a
tender all winter and is showing charged.  All I get is a single click and
the battery draws down a bit.  Am I looking at the starter or the relay?

Thanks,
Tim
Upstate NY
86 Daytona
66 Barracuda
94 Concorde
03 B1500 Cargo Van
95 H-D FXDL


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

i have an 89 daytona es turbo that will not start. i checked the codes and it
come up 42 and 44 dealing with the asd relay. now can anyone tell me where the
green wire with the black stripe goes when it leaves the asd? it appears to go
into the car but it was getting dark. so am i correct in assuming that it goes
to the ignition switch?


98 grand prix gt
91 dodge ram 3500 cummins diesel
89 bronco II 2.9 5speed 4x4
88 bronco II 2.9 auto 4x4
88 ranger 2.3 5speed 4x2
89 t top daytona 2.5 t2
88 lebaron convertable 2.5 t2

---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
  Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

well went and got my t top daytona out today. had to install a different
steering column due to the tilt being to far gone. loaded it up on a rollback
and took it in for an alignment and have them check out the tires on it.now i
just have to focus on the turbo baron convertable for the wife. plans are a new
engine and clutch, rear window section and maybe paint.


98 grand prix gt
91 dodge ram 3500 cummins diesel
89 bronco II 2.9 5speed 4x4
88 bronco II 2.9 auto 4x4
88 ranger 2.3 5speed 4x2
89 t top daytona 2.5 t2
88 lebaron convertable 2.5 t2

---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
  Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Well the time has come and I have held on as long as I possibly could
to her. I have a 86 Daytona TurboZ Trannie is shot Wiring needs redone
Front winshield is also busted up . Rusting thro in the Spare Tire
compartment other then that Bodies not in bad shape Engine hasnt been
started in a year due to the wiring but was still running well before
hand . leather seats are also pretty shoddy . 5 Tires/Rims " Tires
were 6 Month old when the Trannie went on me , 5 spd , 2.2 T-Tops
still intact as well as all winsdows " Eception is the Front Window as
stated " Electric Motors for the electric windows Wipers ect all still
in good shape . 6 Months before the trannie went I had just went thro
the engine all new seals 4 New Cooper Cobra Tires 205/60/15 tho the
rims are mismatched " Just in Color" Silver/Gold" Tan as Dodge called
it" New drive axels. Originally the Trannie was the only issue while
sitting in the side of the yard for 3 months  someone vadilized it "
winshield /Wiring ect " It has been garaged since. If interested
contact me at Tiber742002@... / 785-9696-6335 with offers .
Great rebuilder or even excellent Parts car. Can provide Pics on
request.

i just got a 90 base daytona that will be parted out.2.5 auto . engine is gone
and trans is bad. car is located in abingdon il. anyone need anything?


98 grand prix gt
91 dodge ram 3500 cummins diesel
89 bronco II 2.9 5speed 4x4
88 bronco II 2.9 auto 4x4
88 ranger 2.3 5speed 4x2
89 t top daytona 2.5 t2
88 lebaron convertable 2.5 t2
  __________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I live in Jacksonville FL and am selling my 1988 Shelby Z. Red, t-
tops, power seat, leather interior. About 130K on the mileage. Clear
coat is flaking but body is great. Never been wrecked, no dents. Car
is as is. Driver seat needs some work but its a great car and needs
some TLC. Car runs and was an every day driver. If you need a picture
just ask. wilwielgosz@... Best offer.

i have an 89 daytona es 2.5 turbo 5 speed. the lift ring on the shifter has come
unatached. any ideas on how to fix this?

94 grand am gt
89 t top daytona 2.5 t1
88 ranger 4wd with cutout flares
88 lebaron convertable 2.5 t1

---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
  Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am going to be selling my 88 Shelby Z and don't have a clue what I
should ask for it. It has 131K and is an everyday driver. Its loaded,
T-Tops, leather, power seat, Infinity with CD. Never been wrecked so
all body panels are in great condition. Clear coat on exposed surfaces
to sun is flaking. Driver leather seat needs some work but everything
is original. I had engine torn down a few years ago while in storage
by a mechanic friend and he went through engine, ported and polished
the head. Any ideas?

I've used both brands and never had a problem with either of them holding up to
high boost levels. All of my twin cam cars have the Venolias.

Mark

ooluda <ooluda@...> wrote:                                  Hey guys I am
to the point now where I am getting pistons for my
  motor. But I have a choice of buying JE forged pistons or The venolias
  forged piston. Which one is the better design and can take the most
  beating lol.......Thanks for your guys time
                                     Lorenzo






"MF Wiring Solutions"  (http://www.mfwiringsolutions.com/)
1987 GLH-S Charger #952 (Super 60) Maserati 16 valve conversion in progress!
1988/89 Daytona T-Top Shelby Z 16V Turbo III
1989 CSX-VNT #405 16V Prototype Turbo III
1992 Daytona IROC R/T (With TII Turbo!)
1995 Dakota Sport 2.5 turbo/intercooled (spring project!)
1998 Dakota 5.9 R/T

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey guys I am to the point now where I am getting pistons for my
motor. But I have a choice of buying JE forged pistons or The venolias
forged piston. Which one is the better design and can take the most
beating lol.......Thanks for your guys time
                                    Lorenzo

http://boostedmopar.com/forums/showthread.php?p=36210#post36210

85 Turbo Z
86 GLHS 497
86 GLHS 243
87 CSX
88 CSX-T
94 Caravan
03 SRT4
05 Hemi Quad Cab
http://www.DodgeZ.com
http://www.BoostedMopar.com  <-- Where the crazy people are :)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

well i parked it about a year ago because it was running bad and did a
compression check and #1 cyl had 0 compression. so i figured it needed an
engine. well friday night or saturday morning someone stole my pick up. you know
that your day is going to be bad when you wake up to a call from the sheriffs
dept. they asked if we owned a truck and said it was in the ditch on its side.
so we drive out to where they found it and it was totaled it had been rolled. so
i had to get the tona running. i pulled the head and all 4 cylinders were
cracked and the head gasket was blowen in 2 spots. but luck would have it i had
a few spares around. got it going today and it runs beter than it did in the
other tona ever or the spirit it come out of .

94 grand am gt
89 t top daytona 2.5 t1
88 ranger 4wd with cutout flares
88 lebaron convertable 2.5 t1

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Red w/white top & gray vinyl interior, located in Dover, PA 17315  It's in
good shape & a pretty solid car.  NO RUST.  Definitely not a parts car, and
I can't imagine there's many other 88's out there in better physical shape
with 127,000 miles on them.

Here's the GOOD:
It was garage kept & only a fair weather car when I bought it in 11/02 with
76,000.  So the undercarriage is clean, clean floors.
It was never hit before I bought it, that I know of, nor while I owned it
(since 11/02).
A/C is COLD.
The top is good, but too tight.  I was hoping to replace it either this year
or next.
All windows in working order.
The top motor works fine, it was taken out of a newer vert that was totaled.
The interior is flawless too, with the exception of the right side of the
driver's seat starting to get fold cracks, right under where your right
thigh rests.
Both axles are new within the past year.
New 14" Dunlops in either 8/04 or 6/05, I can't remember, but can check.

Here's the BAD:
The headlights stopped closing some time ago.
The temp gauge stopped working & I never got as far to figure out why.
A lift & slip was done about 2 years ago on the head gasket & it started to
leak again this year, but never more than a quart between 3,000 mile oil
changes.
I put a new rad in about a year & a half ago & it started leaking again, so
I had to keep up on the fluid level.  Was planning to replace the rad about
the time she left me sit.
Bernie said there's no compression at #1 & #2.  He said the head should be
gone over at least, just to be safe, but thought it might be less work to
just exchange motors if I could get one that's pretty much ready.

I did all my own oil changes, unless I had it at Bernie's for some work.  He
did all the work on the car that I couldn't/wouldn't, so he probably knows
it better than I do.  That's where the car is now, in Dover.  I sure do miss
driving her, there's just something about those Jbody Lebarons that's cool!
But I just don't have the need for another vert.  I'm sure I'll have enough
headaches once the Shelby is back on the road, and I definitely need a car
that's less work & is under a warranty.  THAT part is nice about my new car.
Would you believe I haven't bought a NEW car since 1987!?!  That was the 1st
time too....LOL!  All used Mopars ever since.....9 of them!  I don't know if
that's good or bad....LOL!  Email for pics if interested, I have a ton!
Asking $1000, may be negotiable.
Thanx for your interest.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Holly from Harrisburg, PA
SDAC Member - www.sdac.org
DVSDAC Member - www.dv-sdac.org
GLSDAC Member - gl.sdac.org
'05 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, White w/Black top, 2.4/auto
'89 Daytona Shelby, Red w/Ts w/2.2 TII & A555
'88 Chrysler Lebaron Convertible, Red w/White top, 2.5/auto - FOR SALE!
Ms. DC says, "Dodge Girls have more fun!"



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]