Does anyone know the max operating temp for the 325?

The brusa manual says the fans kick on at 40C (104F) and the current cuts back
at 45C (113F.)

With the air con running (and blowing hot air on the controller, which I think
could be a bad design here heh) and after getting home from a one hour drive, my
controller was 50C (122F at the fins and the motor was 74C (165F) and the air
con dc motor was also 74C (165.)

Im not too worried about the motors since the motor overheat trip is 150C (302F)
i was only 1/2 way there.

I am worried however about the controller. If they kick on the fans at 40 and
start limiting at 45 it was running at 50 pretty much the whole way home (its
about 35C (95F) ambient now outside) it can get to 40C just ambient around here
at times.

Am i worried about nothing do they have a max operating temp much higher than
45C?

I didnt notice any lack of power. I do however drive around in normal not the
power setting.

thanks
dex

Thanks Reed,

Not having done this before, could you tell me where to connect a serial cable
from? I assume you mean to then plug it in to a laptop? Do you know where I can
find any documentation on the controller and the RUK signal in particular?

Thanks,
Michael

--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Reed Bement <reedb@...> wrote:
>
> If you suspect the controller, the next step is to connect a serial cable and
run AMCMON.EXE (in  files > Amc Controller Monitoring).  The signal you are
interested in is RUK (see  ReadMe_AMC_MonLog.pdf, same section).
>
> -Reed
>
> On 2011-05-30, at 5:38 PM, evforever39 wrote:
>
> > A while back I asked the group for advice about a problem where my 92 Force
would not engage in reverse. I got one suggestion that maybe it was the key
lock. I put in another key lock, but that didn't fix it. Then I cleaned up most
of the wire connectors and it did seem to help some. I could get it into
reverse, but only very occasionally -- not something I could count on. Because
of the irreproducibly intermittent nature of the problem I thought that maybe it
could be related to an an electronic component and decided to have a look at the
controller. I pulled it out today and took it apart, hoping that I might spot
something obvious like corrosion or a loose wire. Unfortunately (or maybe
fortunately), the inside of the controller is a clean and new looking as can be,
with nothing obviously hanging.
> >
> > So I am writing again in hopes that someone might have a better idea. Also,
I wondering if there's any maintenance I might do on the controller while I have
it apart. It says BRUSA AMCIII, model AC320 on it. Does anyone know someone who
can test these controllers? Any and all thoughts are welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Michael
> >
> >
>

This thread has some discussion of the serial debug cable:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/message/6999

Further down thread you'll find references to the pinouts and an adapter
circuit, if you want to build it yourself.

-Reed


On 2011-06-08, at 10:09 AM, evforever39 wrote:

> Thanks Reed,
>
> Not having done this before, could you tell me where to connect a serial cable
from? I assume you mean to then plug it in to a laptop? Do you know where I can
find any documentation on the controller and the RUK signal in particular?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
>
> --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Reed Bement <reedb@...> wrote:
> >
> > If you suspect the controller, the next step is to connect a serial cable
and run AMCMON.EXE (in files > Amc Controller Monitoring). The signal you are
interested in is RUK (see ReadMe_AMC_MonLog.pdf, same section).
> >
> > -Reed
> >
> > On 2011-05-30, at 5:38 PM, evforever39 wrote:
> >
> > > A while back I asked the group for advice about a problem where my 92
Force would not engage in reverse. I got one suggestion that maybe it was the
key lock. I put in another key lock, but that didn't fix it. Then I cleaned up
most of the wire connectors and it did seem to help some. I could get it into
reverse, but only very occasionally -- not something I could count on. Because
of the irreproducibly intermittent nature of the problem I thought that maybe it
could be related to an an electronic component and decided to have a look at the
controller. I pulled it out today and took it apart, hoping that I might spot
something obvious like corrosion or a loose wire. Unfortunately (or maybe
fortunately), the inside of the controller is a clean and new looking as can be,
with nothing obviously hanging.
> > >
> > > So I am writing again in hopes that someone might have a better idea.
Also, I wondering if there's any maintenance I might do on the controller while
I have it apart. It says BRUSA AMCIII, model AC320 on it. Does anyone know
someone who can test these controllers? Any and all thoughts are welcome.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Michael
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The controller doc's are in the files section:

http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/kKrvTRBZWWIx17pqwPHCBps9BdOp5eXRIN799EpgbWq6SdvVHh8\
NtF9Id3xkCB6IrSuoU5WGFrG7tN9FvBORacd-QOjTXEji2g/E-10%20Solectria%20Controllers%2\
0AMCxxx.pdf

On page 24 there is a schematic of a typical controller installation. The RUK
(abbreviation of backwards in german) signal is the internal software name for
the signal derived from pins 3 & 16 on the controller 25 pin connector. Pin 23
is ground.

		 neutral forward reverse error
pin 3 hi lo hi lo
pin 16 hi hi lo lo

-Reed

On 2011-06-08, at 10:09 AM, evforever39 wrote:

> Thanks Reed,
>
> Not having done this before, could you tell me where to connect a serial cable
from? I assume you mean to then plug it in to a laptop? Do you know where I can
find any documentation on the controller and the RUK signal in particular?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
>
> --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Reed Bement <reedb@...> wrote:
> >
> > If you suspect the controller, the next step is to connect a serial cable
and run AMCMON.EXE (in files > Amc Controller Monitoring). The signal you are
interested in is RUK (see ReadMe_AMC_MonLog.pdf, same section).
> >
> > -Reed
> >
> > On 2011-05-30, at 5:38 PM, evforever39 wrote:
> >
> > > A while back I asked the group for advice about a problem where my 92
Force would not engage in reverse. I got one suggestion that maybe it was the
key lock. I put in another key lock, but that didn't fix it. Then I cleaned up
most of the wire connectors and it did seem to help some. I could get it into
reverse, but only very occasionally -- not something I could count on. Because
of the irreproducibly intermittent nature of the problem I thought that maybe it
could be related to an an electronic component and decided to have a look at the
controller. I pulled it out today and took it apart, hoping that I might spot
something obvious like corrosion or a loose wire. Unfortunately (or maybe
fortunately), the inside of the controller is a clean and new looking as can be,
with nothing obviously hanging.
> > >
> > > So I am writing again in hopes that someone might have a better idea.
Also, I wondering if there's any maintenance I might do on the controller while
I have it apart. It says BRUSA AMCIII, model AC320 on it. Does anyone know
someone who can test these controllers? Any and all thoughts are welcome.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Michael
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dex,
Can't answer your question on controller but wanted to say I sure think you are
correct in that the condensor and controller configuration in certain year
groups could be "better".

It doesn't get much hotter than the 100+ numbers we get around here sometimes
and I have often looked for a way to duct air to the 325 that didn't go through
the condensor first.  But I worry more about battery use in the same conditions
more than I do the controller. The pack gets heat soaked and it doesn't really
have any cooling air.

Hot batteries have a lot of extra "zoom zoom" but at a cost in longevity.  Use
of econ or normal is definitely in the best interest of all components.

FWIW I rewired my motor fan so it is "hot" all the time.  The temp sensor can
turn it on and off at will.  I never liked shutting the car down and taking away
the cooling fan.  I believe Solectria might have this arrangement on some years.

Mike R
97 Force

--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "dexion111" <dexion111@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know the max operating temp for the 325?
>
> The brusa manual says the fans kick on at 40C (104F) and the current cuts back
at 45C (113F.)
>
> With the air con running (and blowing hot air on the controller, which I think
could be a bad design here heh) and after getting home from a one hour drive, my
controller was 50C (122F at the fins and the motor was 74C (165F) and the air
con dc motor was also 74C (165.)
>
> Im not too worried about the motors since the motor overheat trip is 150C
(302F) i was only 1/2 way there.
>
> I am worried however about the controller. If they kick on the fans at 40 and
start limiting at 45 it was running at 50 pretty much the whole way home (its
about 35C (95F) ambient now outside) it can get to 40C just ambient around here
at times.
>
> Am i worried about nothing do they have a max operating temp much higher than
45C?
>
> I didnt notice any lack of power. I do however drive around in normal not the
power setting.
>
> thanks
> dex
>

That's a good idea I let it sit in the garage until the fans turn off. I'll
rewire them. I don't have any batts in the front it's 52 100 ah lifepo4s all in
the trunk. I was going to route the heat away from the controller rather than
fresh air to the controller that gives me 2 options now to think about. I have a
55 mile round trip and in the summer the ac is on for two hours heating the
controller. If I come up with something I'll share if it works out.
Thanks for the reply.

Sent from my iPhone
0d
On Jun 11, 2011, at 3:33 PM, "ldr214" <replytome@...> wrote:

> Dex,
> Can't answer your question on controller but wanted to say I sure think you
are correct in that the condensor and controller configuration in certain year
groups could be "better".
>
> It doesn't get much hotter than the 100+ numbers we get around here sometimes
and I have often looked for a way to duct air to the 325 that didn't go through
the condensor first. But I worry more about battery use in the same conditions
more than I do the controller. The pack gets heat soaked and it doesn't really
have any cooling air.
>
> Hot batteries have a lot of extra "zoom zoom" but at a cost in longevity. Use
of econ or normal is definitely in the best interest of all components.
>
> FWIW I rewired my motor fan so it is "hot" all the time. The temp sensor can
turn it on and off at will. I never liked shutting the car down and taking away
the cooling fan. I believe Solectria might have this arrangement on some years.
>
> Mike R
> 97 Force
>
> --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "dexion111" <dexion111@...> wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone know the max operating temp for the 325?
> >
> > The brusa manual says the fans kick on at 40C (104F) and the current cuts
back at 45C (113F.)
> >
> > With the air con running (and blowing hot air on the controller, which I
think could be a bad design here heh) and after getting home from a one hour
drive, my controller was 50C (122F at the fins and the motor was 74C (165F) and
the air con dc motor was also 74C (165.)
> >
> > Im not too worried about the motors since the motor overheat trip is 150C
(302F) i was only 1/2 way there.
> >
> > I am worried however about the controller. If they kick on the fans at 40
and start limiting at 45 it was running at 50 pretty much the whole way home
(its about 35C (95F) ambient now outside) it can get to 40C just ambient around
here at times.
> >
> > Am i worried about nothing do they have a max operating temp much higher
than 45C?
> >
> > I didnt notice any lack of power. I do however drive around in normal not
the power setting.
> >
> > thanks
> > dex
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The saga continues:

When we got our 1999 Solectria Force a few weeks ago, we thought it only needed
new batteries and a charger.  We replaced both, and on the maiden voyage around
the block it began making terrible noises and lost virtually all power.  On
jackstands the wheels go around, but at very low speed.  We thought we tracked
it down to the speed sensor, so we pulled it out and tried to track down the
problem.  We measured values all over, and replaced the optosensors, the
transistors, and the op amp, but not the comparator.

We put it back together, and it seemed to run better on the stands, but when we
put it down it wouldn't move an inch.  We put it back up on stands, and as we
tired it a few more times we found that sometimes the wheels start turning
backwards, and doesn't stop when you take your foot off the accelerator but
keeps speeding up.  You have to put your foot on the brake to stop the motor.

I took some oscilloscope recordings of the A-, A+, B- and B+ signals out of the
speed sensor, and posted them in the Photos section of this site.  I see that
the A- and A+ signals don't seem consistent.  There are gaps and sections when
the two are not oscillating correctly.  The B- and B+ signals seem very good.

The PTC temperature sensor for the motor is there, but the value is somewhat
low.  It is around 140 Ohms, when it is supposed to be 240 or so, as I recall.

Any ideas of what I should check next?

Channel A seems to have a problem all right. I would work back from the
comparator outputs comparing the two channels until you find the problem. One
trick that might help is to drive the board with an optical source on the bench
while you are debugging. An IR remote control will work for this purpose, or you
can drive an IR LED with a signal generator at a more realistic rate.

Also while you have the car up on jacks you may want to test the rest of
controller and transmission. You can tie the A-, A+, B- and B+ lines to a valid
state with pull up resistors and grounding, then connect a 240 ohm resistor in
place of the PTC. With this setup you should be able to spin the motor in
forward and reverse without speed feedback. It should run smoothly with very
little noise.

-Reed


On 2011-06-13, at 6:36 PM, ECE Prof wrote:

> The saga continues:
>
> When we got our 1999 Solectria Force a few weeks ago, we thought it only
needed new batteries and a charger. We replaced both, and on the maiden voyage
around the block it began making terrible noises and lost virtually all power.
On jackstands the wheels go around, but at very low speed. We thought we tracked
it down to the speed sensor, so we pulled it out and tried to track down the
problem. We measured values all over, and replaced the optosensors, the
transistors, and the op amp, but not the comparator.
>
> We put it back together, and it seemed to run better on the stands, but when
we put it down it wouldn't move an inch. We put it back up on stands, and as we
tired it a few more times we found that sometimes the wheels start turning
backwards, and doesn't stop when you take your foot off the accelerator but
keeps speeding up. You have to put your foot on the brake to stop the motor.
>
> I took some oscilloscope recordings of the A-, A+, B- and B+ signals out of
the speed sensor, and posted them in the Photos section of this site. I see that
the A- and A+ signals don't seem consistent. There are gaps and sections when
the two are not oscillating correctly. The B- and B+ signals seem very good.
>
> The PTC temperature sensor for the motor is there, but the value is somewhat
low. It is around 140 Ohms, when it is supposed to be 240 or so, as I recall.
>
> Any ideas of what I should check next?
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Is there someone who does this?
Another subject: I drilled some side holes in the pack Anderson connector, to
allow voltage measurement. Beats trying to stick the probes in, to hit the
crimped connectors.

Do you have a sense of what is wrong with it?  If it is more than the fuse /
burned trace issue, keep in mind that the ICs are obsolete.  The part in the
dash is a counter.  It is being sent pulses to count up or down.  I have
been told it might be easier to make a new counter / sender than to try to
rebuild the box.



For a lot less money and a lot more capability:
http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml



From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of William S
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 4:36 PM
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [solectria_ev] Repair of amp-hour meters.





Is there someone who does this?
Another subject: I drilled some side holes in the pack Anderson connector,
to allow voltage measurement. Beats trying to stick the probes in, to hit
the crimped connectors.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am looking to buy an old Avcon EVI brand DS-50 charger or two.  If anyone
knows of where one is please contact me.  Thanks, Steve  e-mail =
steveh@...



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Great! This seems really useful. At least now I have the manual for the
controller and see that BRUSA is now owned by Kruspan
(http://www.kruspan.ch/Products/AMC_TechnicalData.htm), where I downloaded some
software for monitoring the controller. I'll get the serial cable put together
as you suggested. The diagram on p. 25 showing the pin layout and the
forward-reverse connection looks like what I need (I hope). More to come!
Michael

--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Reed Bement <reedb@...> wrote:
>
> This thread has some discussion of the serial debug cable:
>
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/message/6999
>
> Further down thread you'll find references to the pinouts and an adapter
circuit, if you want to build it yourself.
>
> -Reed
>
>
> On 2011-06-08, at 10:09 AM, evforever39 wrote:
>
> > Thanks Reed,
> >
> > Not having done this before, could you tell me where to connect a serial
cable from? I assume you mean to then plug it in to a laptop? Do you know where
I can find any documentation on the controller and the RUK signal in particular?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Michael
> >
> > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Reed Bement <reedb@> wrote:
> > >
> > > If you suspect the controller, the next step is to connect a serial cable
and run AMCMON.EXE (in files > Amc Controller Monitoring). The signal you are
interested in is RUK (see ReadMe_AMC_MonLog.pdf, same section).
> > >
> > > -Reed
> > >
> > > On 2011-05-30, at 5:38 PM, evforever39 wrote:
> > >
> > > > A while back I asked the group for advice about a problem where my 92
Force would not engage in reverse. I got one suggestion that maybe it was the
key lock. I put in another key lock, but that didn't fix it. Then I cleaned up
most of the wire connectors and it did seem to help some. I could get it into
reverse, but only very occasionally -- not something I could count on. Because
of the irreproducibly intermittent nature of the problem I thought that maybe it
could be related to an an electronic component and decided to have a look at the
controller. I pulled it out today and took it apart, hoping that I might spot
something obvious like corrosion or a loose wire. Unfortunately (or maybe
fortunately), the inside of the controller is a clean and new looking as can be,
with nothing obviously hanging.
> > > >
> > > > So I am writing again in hopes that someone might have a better idea.
Also, I wondering if there's any maintenance I might do on the controller while
I have it apart. It says BRUSA AMCIII, model AC320 on it. Does anyone know
someone who can test these controllers? Any and all thoughts are welcome.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Michael
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

What is it doing? No power? There is a common fuse/burned board issue not too
hard to fix if you have a lot of time and some soldering skills. However a good
replacement
http://minibms.mybigcommerce.com/template/files/EV%20Display%20V2%20User%20Guide\
.pdf which is also fairly easy to install (there is an open board square unit
that I eyeballed up to fit where our amp counter goes.)
dex
--- On Thu, 6/16/11, Charles Bliss <cbliss@...> wrote:


From: Charles Bliss <cbliss@...>
Subject: RE: [solectria_ev] Repair of amp-hour meters.
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, June 16, 2011, 10:26 PM


 



Do you have a sense of what is wrong with it? If it is more than the fuse /
burned trace issue, keep in mind that the ICs are obsolete. The part in the
dash is a counter. It is being sent pulses to count up or down. I have
been told it might be easier to make a new counter / sender than to try to
rebuild the box.

For a lot less money and a lot more capability:
http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml

From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of William S
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 4:36 PM
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [solectria_ev] Repair of amp-hour meters.

Is there someone who does this?
Another subject: I drilled some side holes in the pack Anderson connector,
to allow voltage measurement. Beats trying to stick the probes in, to hit
the crimped connectors.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

That minibms battery monitor is slick. I note that the opening in the
current sensor is probably too small for the battery pack cabling. Would
probably have to incorporate a copper bar thru the current shunt.
    With regard to the original Solectria a-hr meter: It stopped working
after a battery swap. There are no numbers showing and no blinking of the
red/green LED. The back lighting comes on when I turn on the headlights. If
I press on the bezel of the display, I can make out some numbers - minus
115.84, and it does not change after a drive. This is on an E-10, so the
entire unit is in the console. Just to be thorough, I also know my DC/DC
converter is sagging, and it's output is just a little above 12v.

On Sat, Jun 18, 2011 at 6:25 PM, kevin lubot <dexion111@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> What is it doing? No power? There is a common fuse/burned board issue not
> too hard to fix if you have a lot of time and some soldering skills. However
> a good replacement
>
>
http://minibms.mybigcommerce.com/template/files/EV%20Display%20V2%20User%20Guide\
.pdf which
> is also fairly easy to install (there is an open board square unit that I
> eyeballed up to fit where our amp counter goes.)
> dex
> --- On Thu, 6/16/11, Charles Bliss <cbliss@...> wrote:
>
> From: Charles Bliss <cbliss@...>
> Subject: RE: [solectria_ev] Repair of amp-hour meters.
> To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, June 16, 2011, 10:26 PM
>
>
>
> Do you have a sense of what is wrong with it? If it is more than the fuse /
> burned trace issue, keep in mind that the ICs are obsolete. The part in the
> dash is a counter. It is being sent pulses to count up or down. I have
> been told it might be easier to make a new counter / sender than to try to
> rebuild the box.
>
> For a lot less money and a lot more capability:
> http://www.ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml
>
> From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com]
> On
> Behalf Of William S
> Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 4:36 PM
> To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [solectria_ev] Repair of amp-hour meters.
>
> Is there someone who does this?
> Another subject: I drilled some side holes in the pack Anderson connector,
> to allow voltage measurement. Beats trying to stick the probes in, to hit
> the crimped connectors.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>



--
Thanks, Bill S
Ph 832-338-3080
www.watt-tracker.com
www.promotingevs.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I put the BRUSA AC320 back together and back into the car, but . . . nothing. At
this point I'm thinking the controller has failed and am considering trying to
find a replacement.

Does anybody know where I might get one, or what other models might work? It's a
144v system.

Thanks,
Michael
--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "evforever39" <mjennings@...> wrote:
>
> Great! This seems really useful. At least now I have the manual for the
controller and see that BRUSA is now owned by Kruspan
(http://www.kruspan.ch/Products/AMC_TechnicalData.htm), where I downloaded some
software for monitoring the controller. I'll get the serial cable put together
as you suggested. The diagram on p. 25 showing the pin layout and the
forward-reverse connection looks like what I need (I hope). More to come!
> Michael
>
> --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Reed Bement <reedb@> wrote:
> >
> > This thread has some discussion of the serial debug cable:
> >
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/message/6999
> >
> > Further down thread you'll find references to the pinouts and an adapter
circuit, if you want to build it yourself.
> >
> > -Reed
> >
> >
> > On 2011-06-08, at 10:09 AM, evforever39 wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks Reed,
> > >
> > > Not having done this before, could you tell me where to connect a serial
cable from? I assume you mean to then plug it in to a laptop? Do you know where
I can find any documentation on the controller and the RUK signal in particular?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Michael
> > >
> > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Reed Bement <reedb@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > If you suspect the controller, the next step is to connect a serial
cable and run AMCMON.EXE (in files > Amc Controller Monitoring). The signal you
are interested in is RUK (see ReadMe_AMC_MonLog.pdf, same section).
> > > >
> > > > -Reed
> > > >
> > > > On 2011-05-30, at 5:38 PM, evforever39 wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > A while back I asked the group for advice about a problem where my 92
Force would not engage in reverse. I got one suggestion that maybe it was the
key lock. I put in another key lock, but that didn't fix it. Then I cleaned up
most of the wire connectors and it did seem to help some. I could get it into
reverse, but only very occasionally -- not something I could count on. Because
of the irreproducibly intermittent nature of the problem I thought that maybe it
could be related to an an electronic component and decided to have a look at the
controller. I pulled it out today and took it apart, hoping that I might spot
something obvious like corrosion or a loose wire. Unfortunately (or maybe
fortunately), the inside of the controller is a clean and new looking as can be,
with nothing obviously hanging.
> > > > >
> > > > > So I am writing again in hopes that someone might have a better idea.
Also, I wondering if there's any maintenance I might do on the controller while
I have it apart. It says BRUSA AMCIII, model AC320 on it. Does anyone know
someone who can test these controllers? Any and all thoughts are welcome.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > Michael
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

Kelly is working on a 144V controller but not ready yet.  You might contact
them. http://www.kellycontroller.com



From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of evforever39
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2011 3:04 PM
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Problems with reverse





I put the BRUSA AC320 back together and back into the car, but . . .
nothing. At this point I'm thinking the controller has failed and am
considering trying to find a replacement.

Does anybody know where I might get one, or what other models might work?
It's a 144v system.

Thanks,
Michael
--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com>
, "evforever39" <mjennings@...> wrote:
>
> Great! This seems really useful. At least now I have the manual for the
controller and see that BRUSA is now owned by Kruspan
(http://www.kruspan.ch/Products/AMC_TechnicalData.htm), where I downloaded
some software for monitoring the controller. I'll get the serial cable put
together as you suggested. The diagram on p. 25 showing the pin layout and
the forward-reverse connection looks like what I need (I hope). More to
come!
> Michael
>
> --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com> , Reed Bement <reedb@> wrote:
> >
> > This thread has some discussion of the serial debug cable:
> >
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/message/6999
> >
> > Further down thread you'll find references to the pinouts and an adapter
circuit, if you want to build it yourself.
> >
> > -Reed
> >
> >
> > On 2011-06-08, at 10:09 AM, evforever39 wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks Reed,
> > >
> > > Not having done this before, could you tell me where to connect a
serial cable from? I assume you mean to then plug it in to a laptop? Do you
know where I can find any documentation on the controller and the RUK signal
in particular?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Michael
> > >
> > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:solectria_ev%40yahoogroups.com> , Reed Bement <reedb@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > If you suspect the controller, the next step is to connect a serial
cable and run AMCMON.EXE (in files > Amc Controller Monitoring). The signal
you are interested in is RUK (see ReadMe_AMC_MonLog.pdf, same section).
> > > >
> > > > -Reed
> > > >
> > > > On 2011-05-30, at 5:38 PM, evforever39 wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > A while back I asked the group for advice about a problem where my
92 Force would not engage in reverse. I got one suggestion that maybe it was
the key lock. I put in another key lock, but that didn't fix it. Then I
cleaned up most of the wire connectors and it did seem to help some. I could
get it into reverse, but only very occasionally -- not something I could
count on. Because of the irreproducibly intermittent nature of the problem I
thought that maybe it could be related to an an electronic component and
decided to have a look at the controller. I pulled it out today and took it
apart, hoping that I might spot something obvious like corrosion or a loose
wire. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately), the inside of the controller is
a clean and new looking as can be, with nothing obviously hanging.
> > > > >
> > > > > So I am writing again in hopes that someone might have a better
idea. Also, I wondering if there's any maintenance I might do on the
controller while I have it apart. It says BRUSA AMCIII, model AC320 on it.
Does anyone know someone who can test these controllers? Any and all
thoughts are welcome.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > Michael
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

There was a guy selling one on eBay a couple of days ago, not sure if the
auction is still active.

Noel

--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Hawkins" <steveh@...> wrote:
>
> I am looking to buy an old Avcon EVI brand DS-50 charger or two.  If anyone
> knows of where one is please contact me.  Thanks, Steve  e-mail =
> steveh@...
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I could take a look at it... See if it can be repaired. :)

Wolf
*wags his tail*
www.wolftronix.com

On Sun, Jun 19, 2011 at 5:03 PM, evforever39 <mjennings@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> I put the BRUSA AC320 back together and back into the car, but . . .
> nothing. At this point I'm thinking the controller has failed and am
> considering trying to find a replacement.
>
> Does anybody know where I might get one, or what other models might work?
> It's a 144v system.
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
>
> --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "evforever39" <mjennings@...> wrote:
> >
> > Great! This seems really useful. At least now I have the manual for the
> controller and see that BRUSA is now owned by Kruspan (
> http://www.kruspan.ch/Products/AMC_TechnicalData.htm), where I downloaded
> some software for monitoring the controller. I'll get the serial cable put
> together as you suggested. The diagram on p. 25 showing the pin layout and
> the forward-reverse connection looks like what I need (I hope). More to
> come!
> > Michael
> >
> > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Reed Bement <reedb@> wrote:
> > >
> > > This thread has some discussion of the serial debug cable:
> > >
> > > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/message/6999
> > >
> > > Further down thread you'll find references to the pinouts and an
> adapter circuit, if you want to build it yourself.
> > >
> > > -Reed
> > >
> > >
> > > On 2011-06-08, at 10:09 AM, evforever39 wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thanks Reed,
> > > >
> > > > Not having done this before, could you tell me where to connect a
> serial cable from? I assume you mean to then plug it in to a laptop? Do you
> know where I can find any documentation on the controller and the RUK signal
> in particular?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Michael
> > > >
> > > > --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Reed Bement <reedb@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > If you suspect the controller, the next step is to connect a serial
> cable and run AMCMON.EXE (in files > Amc Controller Monitoring). The signal
> you are interested in is RUK (see ReadMe_AMC_MonLog.pdf, same section).
> > > > >
> > > > > -Reed
> > > > >
> > > > > On 2011-05-30, at 5:38 PM, evforever39 wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > A while back I asked the group for advice about a problem where
> my 92 Force would not engage in reverse. I got one suggestion that maybe it
> was the key lock. I put in another key lock, but that didn't fix it. Then I
> cleaned up most of the wire connectors and it did seem to help some. I could
> get it into reverse, but only very occasionally -- not something I could
> count on. Because of the irreproducibly intermittent nature of the problem I
> thought that maybe it could be related to an an electronic component and
> decided to have a look at the controller. I pulled it out today and took it
> apart, hoping that I might spot something obvious like corrosion or a loose
> wire. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately), the inside of the controller is
> a clean and new looking as can be, with nothing obviously hanging.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > So I am writing again in hopes that someone might have a better
> idea. Also, I wondering if there's any maintenance I might do on the
> controller while I have it apart. It says BRUSA AMCIII, model AC320 on it.
> Does anyone know someone who can test these controllers? Any and all
> thoughts are welcome.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > Michael
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi everyone,

Several weeks ago I wrote to report a strange power loss on my E-10 pickup after
it was
out in the rain.

When that happened, I never did work out what was going on -- none of the
control signal
wiring connectors were wet, and after I managed to get it into the garage and it
sat for a
couple of days, it returned to normal operation.  I suspected something got wet
and was
fouling up the signals to the motor controllers, but had no idea what.

Well, Sunday we had a little rain shower and the truck was outside.  Very little
rain, but
when i went to move the truck, sure enough it was barely moving, with odd
growling noises
coming from it in forward mode.

This was a great chance to troubleshoot the thing with limited variables -- I
popped the
hood to see if anything under there was wet, like the potbox -- it was dry as a
bone.

I then raised the bed to see what was wet under there, and the only place where
rain got
in there was the small gap between the bed and cab -- the gray Anderson
connectors to the
motor controllers are there as is the brake signal wire from one of the
controllers.  I
pulled those apart and nothing was amiss, the connectors were not corroded or
anything and
they weren't that wet.

Then I looked at the top of the battery box, where the motor controllers are
mounted on
rubber shock mounts, about 1/2" above the top of the battery box.  There was
some debris
(mostly bits of mulch -- we use the truck to haul lots of that stuff every year)
that was
sopping wet and pretty much filling the gap between the battery box and the
bottoms of the
controllers.

I unbolted the controllers, lifted them (their bottom sides were wet) and
cleaned out the
wet mulch debris with a wet-dry vac, then re-mounted everything.  Tried driving
again and
it was still barely moving -- I barely got it into the dry garage.  But I have a
theory --
Based on the limited amount of wet area, I'm betting that one of the seals on
one of the
controllers' seams is imperfect and water was wicking in from the debris,
causing some
sort of problem in the controller, preventing it from working properly.  I
figured I'd
leave it for a day or two and the controller would dry out.

I took the truck out today and it worked perfectly.  If I had time, I'd open the
controllers and see if they have evidence of water getting in -- if this happens
again
I'll probably do just that, because I can see nothing else that could really
cause the
kind of trouble I'm seeing.  I'll bet, though, that things are OK because that
debris
isn't there any more.  We'll see...

-Tom

--
Thomas Hudson
http://portev.org -- Electric Vehicles, Solar Power&  More
http://klanky.com -- Animation Projects

This has happened before, last summer only on really hot days.  Today, I had
only been driving a few minutes, not over 35.  I was sitting at a stop
light, the light changed, I stepped on the accelerator and nothing.  I
turned off the ignition switch then back on and it ran perfectly all the way
home.

Since this has happened several times and only when it was hot out, it has
to be thermal related, but to what?  It was about 90 degrees this afternoon.

1994 Solectria Belt Drive car for Sale

Hello,

  I have to sell one of my cars.
It's very similar to my daily driver.
I'm in Massachusetts.

It's set up with a 156v controller.
It's complete parts wise.
Air conditioning as well.
No batteries or cables.
I've tested it with a "lame" set of batteries.
Runs fine.

I will provide more specs on the battery boxes and pictures.

Just shoot me an email with questions and offers.

Thanks,

MArk

packratdaddy@...

1994 Solectria Force

hello-
we have just changed the batteries in a 97' Force, now has Werker AGM, size 31,
seemed a good choice and to work, had to put one front battery above the plate
to right of controller, and one in rear above/outside the battery cover, on
right by wheel well area.   actually we had already had one set of size 31 batts
before, same cofiguration, and no problem.   but this time, dashboard amp gauge
reads 100.00 AH used, upon plugging in the anderson ctr to the controller !  and
when you go to drive it, it turns on, moves a little, then cuts out.

does anyone know about this problem?  how to get AH gauge to zero, do you think
this is why the controller is cutting out, is there anything else that pops into
mind?

many thanks, hoping for a reply-
Rick Ehrlich
Houston

Nothing else depends on the amp-hr gauge, so whenever your problem
there is, it's not causing your controller to fail.  I would guess
either your batteries are not connected correctly, or the connections
are not tight, or in the process of battery replacement something else
(e.g., one of the other controller cables) has become loose.

                                         Ken

There is a set of terminals that can be connected to reset the display.
Normally, when you charge, it  should count down to below zero then when you
disconnect the charger and pull a load, it will clear the negative value and
automatically reset to zero.

What is happening after you recharge?



From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Richard
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 1:10 PM
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [solectria_ev] controller bug, or at least amp hr gauge- anybody
know answer?





hello-
we have just changed the batteries in a 97' Force, now has Werker AGM, size
31, seemed a good choice and to work, had to put one front battery above the
plate to right of controller, and one in rear above/outside the battery
cover, on right by wheel well area. actually we had already had one set of
size 31 batts before, same cofiguration, and no problem. but this time,
dashboard amp gauge reads 100.00 AH used, upon plugging in the anderson ctr
to the controller ! and when you go to drive it, it turns on, moves a
little, then cuts out.

does anyone know about this problem? how to get AH gauge to zero, do you
think this is why the controller is cutting out, is there anything else that
pops into mind?

many thanks, hoping for a reply-
Rick Ehrlich
Houston





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

What does a dvm read at the big anderson?

On Jun 29, 2011, at 8:58 PM, "Charles Bliss" <cbliss@...> wrote:

> There is a set of terminals that can be connected to reset the display.
> Normally, when you charge, it should count down to below zero then when you
> disconnect the charger and pull a load, it will clear the negative value and
> automatically reset to zero.
>
> What is happening after you recharge?
>
> From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Richard
> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 1:10 PM
> To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [solectria_ev] controller bug, or at least amp hr gauge- anybody
> know answer?
>
> hello-
> we have just changed the batteries in a 97' Force, now has Werker AGM, size
> 31, seemed a good choice and to work, had to put one front battery above the
> plate to right of controller, and one in rear above/outside the battery
> cover, on right by wheel well area. actually we had already had one set of
> size 31 batts before, same cofiguration, and no problem. but this time,
> dashboard amp gauge reads 100.00 AH used, upon plugging in the anderson ctr
> to the controller ! and when you go to drive it, it turns on, moves a
> little, then cuts out.
>
> does anyone know about this problem? how to get AH gauge to zero, do you
> think this is why the controller is cutting out, is there anything else that
> pops into mind?
>
> many thanks, hoping for a reply-
> Rick Ehrlich
> Houston
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

2a. controller bug, or at least amp hr gauge- anybody know answer?
     From: Richard
     Date: Wed Jun 29, 2011 1:09 pm ((PDT))

>but this time, dashboard amp gauge reads 100.00 AH used, upon plugging in
the anderson ctr to the controller !  and when you go to drive it, it turns
on, moves a little, then cuts out.

how to get AH gauge to zero, do you think this is why the controller is
cutting out, is there anything else that pops into mind?

many thanks, hoping for a reply-
Rick Ehrlich
Houston

Rick,

They are not related.

On the AH meter.. The E-10 uses a single RED Anderson connecter that when
re-connected will power up the accessories and the AH counter. IF the AH
counter doesn't reset to 0.00 but instead comes up with 100.0, simply
remove the power to it again and wait 5-10 seconds and re-connect it. It
sometimes takes 2 or 3 trys to get mine to come up with 00.0. I'm sure
your's has a similar connection.

HTH,

Jim - Glendale, AZ
www.evalbum.com/1703

--------------------------------------------------------------------
myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft® Windows® and Linux web and application
hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting

I am re-assembling the E-10 controllers. I note a switch in the section of the
controller, where the battery voltage and 3 phase outputs connect. It is shown
on page 25 of 27 of the document entitled "AMCxxx_17.pdf", in the files section.
It is labeled "sense of rotation". And the switch appears to have an a and b
position. I assume it determines the rotation direction of the 2 motors. Does
anyone know the switch positions for the 2 controllers? I could check rotation
with one motor powered, then the other, and verify that the directions are the
same and forward when the forward motion selector is selected. Thanks in
advance.

I have a 96 Solectria Force sedan and I'm wondering what (if anything?) needs to
be done relative to the "transmission".  It has couple hoses that appear to be
coming out of it but my manual just talks about a "drive belt inspection" (no
idea how to get to it), and "half shaft lubrication".  I've put about 8k miles
on it since I got it.  Anyone know of any pictures or steps posted online for
this?  Are replacement belts available anywhere?  All I can find from previous
posts deal with the pickup....

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I referenced my belt through Gates.

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=7468&location_id=11347

You can find a local distributor through their site.

I paid $35 for mine.

Make sure you give the right part # off one of your old belt.

Also read message # 6337

Hello all,
I have a 99 Geo, with a 2006 model BC3300 charger.
I left my trunk open one day and it rained pretty hard. About a week later the
charger stopped charging. The little yellow light on the charger interface box
"sometimes" flashes, and I can hear a little "click" in the charger. Sometimes
it does not light up at all.
I have checked the 3 fuses in the interface box and also the main fuse just past
the anderson connector. They are all fine.
I took the charger out and took it carefully out of the case. It had about 1/16"
of water in the bottom, but I do not think any of the components where
"submerged". There was however noticeable "condensation" on some of the
components. I let it dry out for several days, re-assembled and re-installed.
Nothing! Still the same problem.

I have read through the "Sercive Manual" about checking fuses, and am stuck on
checking the resistance on teh temperature sensors. (Not exactly sure I know
which ones to check..) - plus have the gut feeling that is not the problem
anyway since it got rained on.

The other strange thing I did notice, was that there seems to be a small drain
on the system even when I am not driving the car. It would never do this before.
Also, the very day it would not take a charge, I also noticed that the normal
"14" mile trip I always took consumed 20+ Amphours when it normally uses 14-15
Amphours.
It almost seems like there is something "sucking" the power out at a higher
rate, and I suspected that the car may appear to be "on" to the charger, so it
will not let it charge. I know it is set up this way. (i.e. If you have the key
on and in drive, and try and plug it in, it will not charge.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Larry

828-698-7860