What I did was monitor the charger voltage during the last stage as well as
measuring the voltage on the actual batteries.   I then adjusted the final
stage voltage on the NLG4 until it hit the desired pack voltage.   I had to
change multiple parts of my profile as I switched to AGM batteries.



From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Mike Merbach
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 12:44 PM
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [solectria_ev] Charge profile NLG4





Thanks to whomever loaded the NLG$ charging profile for the gel cells.

My only question to the group in regards to the profile is "What criterion
does the charger use to finish?"

Section five is: Pass over to Stop.

But how does it know when, I can't seem to find a time variable to indicate
when passes.

Mike

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, jim donovan <donovan66205@...> wrote:
>
> UPDATE:

> My current problem now is how far do I put the new one in - far enough so that
the outside lines up with where the old one is OR far enough so that the inside
lines up with the old inside.  I can't have both. 
>  
> Let me know what you smarter people think.
>  
> Jim
>

Jim,

    First, let me say, I don't know.   However, that being said, I would try to
determine how the shaft contact point of the old seal references with the new
thinner seal. Doing this may help you derive the best position.  I am thinking
you would try to push the seal in far enough to have the contact point on the
axle be the same as the old seal.   My thinking here is that if that surface is
in good shape, it will be smooth and less wearing on the new seal.

Hello all,

I have a 1995 E-10 chassis with the rear end and motors that I want to sale. I
really do not have a set price on the lot. If someone could give me an idea of
what it might be worth to them we could go from there. I am open to all offers.
If it does not sell I will just keep it for a future project. But I would like
the space. So, what do you think?
I have put a photo in the photo area.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/photos/album/737707261/pic/list
If the link does not work it is called E-10 from NC.
I can be reached at 252-586-0698 or 252-320-0493.

Thanks,

Bob

I am interested in it, but I can't see the pics, since I don't have access to
the yahoo group. :/

Wolf
*wags his tail*
www.wolftronix.com


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: bsanders_bayou
   To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 5:56 PM
   Subject: [solectria_ev] 1995 E-10 Drive train and motors for sale



   Hello all,

   I have a 1995 E-10 chassis with the rear end and motors that I want to sale. I
really do not have a set price on the lot. If someone could give me an idea of
what it might be worth to them we could go from there. I am open to all offers.
If it does not sell I will just keep it for a future project. But I would like
the space. So, what do you think?
   I have put a photo in the photo area.
   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/photos/album/737707261/pic/list
   If the link does not work it is called E-10 from NC.
   I can be reached at 252-586-0698 or 252-320-0493.

   Thanks,

   Bob





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have attached a photo for Wolf, and others who might have trouble viewing it.

Paul Schafer
Dead 1996 NiMH Force

--- On Sat, 1/2/10, bsanders_bayou <sandersmills@...> wrote:

From: bsanders_bayou <sandersmills@...>
Subject: [solectria_ev] 1995 E-10 Drive train and motors for sale
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, January 2, 2010, 3:56 PM







 









       Hello all,



I have a 1995 E-10 chassis with the rear end and motors that I want to sale. I
really do not have a set price on the lot. If someone could give me an idea of
what it might be worth to them we could go from there. I am open to all offers.
If it does not sell I will just keep it for a future project. But I would like
the space. So, what do you think?

I have put a photo in the photo area.

http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/solectria_ ev/photos/ album/737707261/ pic/list

If the link does not work it is called E-10 from NC.

I can be reached at 252-586-0698 or 252-320-0493.



Thanks,



Bob

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks to all, The item has been sold.

--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "bsanders_bayou" <sandersmills@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have a 1995 E-10 chassis with the rear end and motors that I want to sale. I
really do not have a set price on the lot. If someone could give me an idea of
what it might be worth to them we could go from there. I am open to all offers.
If it does not sell I will just keep it for a future project. But I would like
the space. So, what do you think?
> I have put a photo in the photo area.
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/photos/album/737707261/pic/list
> If the link does not work it is called E-10 from NC.
> I can be reached at 252-586-0698 or 252-320-0493.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>

I am interested. When you decide on an amount please advise.
Lynn

--- On Sat, 1/2/10, Paul Schafer <schaferdds@...> wrote:


From: Paul Schafer <schaferdds@...>
Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] 1995 E-10 Drive train photo
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Cc: "Wolf Solectria" <wolf@...>
Date: Saturday, January 2, 2010, 10:50 PM


 



I have attached a photo for Wolf, and others who might have trouble viewing it.

Paul Schafer
Dead 1996 NiMH Force

--- On Sat, 1/2/10, bsanders_bayou <sandersmills@ gmail.com> wrote:

From: bsanders_bayou <sandersmills@ gmail.com>
Subject: [solectria_ev] 1995 E-10 Drive train and motors for sale
To: solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, January 2, 2010, 3:56 PM

 

Hello all,

I have a 1995 E-10 chassis with the rear end and motors that I want to sale. I
really do not have a set price on the lot. If someone could give me an idea of
what it might be worth to them we could go from there. I am open to all offers.
If it does not sell I will just keep it for a future project. But I would like
the space. So, what do you think?

I have put a photo in the photo area.

http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/solectria_ ev/photos/ album/737707261/ pic/list

If the link does not work it is called E-10 from NC.

I can be reached at 252-586-0698 or 252-320-0493.

Thanks,

Bob

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mike,Sorry I was  slow to respond,I unplugged from everything for the last 10
days.

Thanks, the NLG4 requires some concentration.

I was being SO careful, I thought, & when I plugged NLG4 back in for 1st time,
NOTHING happened.

With a sinking feeling in my gut I took it back out & rechecked NLG4 against my
notes.

Turns out I REVERSED a 4 pin plugin on the smallest circuit board. It plugs in
easily either way.

I consider myself fortunate that no damage was done, Icant afford to replace it
outright.


On Wed Dec 30th, 2009 3:38 PM EST Mike Merbach wrote:

>Very Good for you.
>
>I had the pleasure of swapping parts in a NLG4 and compliments to you.
>
>Mike
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: W Hand <flippedgator@...>
>To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Thu, December 24, 2009 8:30:00 PM
>Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] BC3300 NLG4 Battery Charger
>
> 
>Hi,
>
>I don't know much, but I just fixed my BC3300/NLG4 by replacing capacitors.
>
>Here is what I found out.
>
>WIMA is mfg of those poly snubber capacitors.
>
>Mouser Electronics is North American rep for them.
>
>Mouser is online, you can order from them direct.
>
>The red are MKP.
>
>The blue are FKP . .
>
>The values on the capacitor itself, capacitance, voltage, tolerance can be used
to find the replacement part.
>
>The good news, they are $5.00.parts.
>
>The bad,,it is a bit of a bear to get to that board.
>
>It took me a couple of 2 hour sessions .
>& masking tape markers & pictures & notes to tear it down & then put it back
together after the parts came in from Mouser.
>
>My charger was erroring out on code 129..it was exceeding 70 amp hour limit.
>
>It was reading 240v charger rate on MONLOG.exe but it was really running @
120v, so it was erroring out on 70Ah limit evrytime I ran 35Ah or more on the
dash gauge.
>.
>
>Once I replaced two capacitors , it is running like a CHAMP.!!!!
>
>I have pics & notes if you want them.
>
>LUCK,
>Walt
>
>PS: hey, WOLF, I owed you an answer,,,, the blue FKP caps are part#
FKP1.15/1250/ 10
>.15uF 1250V 10%
>
>On Sat Dec 19th, 2009 11:03 AM EST StevenG wrote:
>
>>Hello to all. My BC 3300 has given up and I am attempting to repair it, It
began its failure by turning off before the batteries were topped off. Cycling
the power and it would finish the cycle. Upon opening the charger and checking
the normal fuses etc. I noted a stinky bulging, cracked red relay/square box
looking thing, WIMA MKP 4.. There are actually several of them, different sizes,
that seem to be bulging and cracked. Are these obtainable through Azure or other
sources?
>>
>>Thanks for any help that can be offered. I have had good success with the
original charger and would like to keep it all original if possible.
>>
>>Steven
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

looking for help with the error code "LED Overvolt" on my UMOC 440 controller.

I have a 320vdc nominal system

HELP!!!!!!


--
Brian Nakonechny
R/C TOYS Inc.
WWW.TANICPACKS.com
800-728-6976
913-648-0696

Hello all I am new to this group but not new to converting ev's. I have done 4
conversions this last year. I am done ,, well sort of on my 4th one. I am having
issues with an error on my UMOC. I am getting the LED error, then "overvolt"
according to the manual this can be a serious or no so serious fault. I have 100
LifePo4 cells in series. I have the setting in the parameter screen set to
365vdc max and 250 vdc min. The car has no power not even enough to move it. If
the rear heels are in the air it will move the wheels very fast actually, but on
the ground nothing?????????

I heard there are some experts on this site and I hope one of you help me out!!

Thanks

Brian

PS here is my build link if you care to look at the car
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/brians-next-ac-lifepo4-ev-35\
419p40.html

you need to join real quick to see the pictures ( I suggest you do there are
some good ones)

Hello all I am new to this group but not new to converting ev's. I have done 4
conversions this last year. I am done ,, well sort of on my 4th one. I am having
issues with an error on my UMOC. I am getting the LED error, then "overvolt"
according to the manual this can be a serious or no so serious fault. I have 100
LifePo4 cells in series. I have the setting in the parameter screen set to
365vdc max and 250 vdc min. The car has no power not even enough to move it. If
the rear heels are in the air it will move the wheels very fast actually, but on
the ground nothing?????????

I heard there are some experts on this site and I hope one of you help me out!!

Thanks

Brian

PS here is my build link if you care to look at the car
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/brians-next-ac-lifepo4-ev-35\
419p40.html

you need to join real quick to see the pictures ( I suggest you do there are
some good ones)

I guess when I saw  (the potential) to draw 9 amps in section three, it seemed
odd to me that I would want to continue to Make heat and use (consume) current.

What set me off: "Section Four of the NLG4 profile that is saved in the files
section had no criterion. Yet Section five has a pass over to stop text in the
upper right hand corner...." I was unsure why that text is there and what was
triggering the pass-over to stop.
I understand the forever float, I just did not want to waste current at a rate
of 9 amps. I too have unplugged the charger from the car leaving the tray
heaters on.
I have resigned to make a summer and winter profile.

thanks for the input. Mike R and Charles.

Mike M

 



________________________________
From: ldr214 <replytome@...>
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, December 30, 2009 3:51:54 PM
Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Charge profile NLG4

 

Mike I'm not exactly sure about your question. I agree with Ken that it just
floats forever in section 3 of the factory gel profile. The green light
indicating charge complete is turned on by the criteria section at the bottom of
the profile page. That light doesn't in of itself mean anything except that it
is turned on by the charger when the charger is in that section. You can set any
combination of lights.

The charger goes to sect 3 "finished" section when it has completed sect 2. In
the factory profile section 2 is normally complete when the charger has put out
10% of the amount of charge (in energy/not time) it used in section 1.
Example 10 AHs in section 1, would be 1 AH in section 2 and as soon as that
happens it goes to section 3. The numbers the charger is using will not always
be the same as on the dash AH meter.

Many chargers do in fact shutdown or "finish" when they complete the profile.
The factory profile for the Solectria Force gel maintains the charger at a
"ready state" to supply up to 9 amps of charging current at 175.5V to maintain a
full pack.

Section 4 and 5 are not used in the factory profile as there is no profile
reason for the charger to leave section 3.

FWIW I personally unplug my charger on hot summer days as even in the float
section I can see the internal temp slowly climb and with the pack temp also
climbing there is pretty much no reason for me to have it plugged in when using
it daily. I also changed my section 3 so it times out after 12 hours and goes to
section 4 with a slightly lower float voltage as recommended by Greensaver. Some
other users have inserted a modified section 1 which starts the charge at a very
reduced amperage prior to continuing with the factory profile. so they also have
4 or more sections active. This eliminates the initial plug-in power surge.

Other than the NLG5 this is probably the most versatile easily modified user
freindly charger available. Just not super robust

Mike R
97 Force

--- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, Mike Merbach <merbach1@.. .> wrote:
>
> Thanks to whomever loaded the NLG$ charging profile for the gel cells.
>
> My only question to the group in regards to the profile is "What criterion
does the charger use to finish?"
>
> Section five is: Pass over to Stop.
>
> But how does it know when, I can't seem to find a time variable to indicate
when passes.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Brian,

What are your amp limits set to (and what have you calculated as the limit to
draw from that LifePo4 string)?

Don't spin too fast with the wheels up.

Amps determine torque (or torque requirements determine how many amps you need).

Regards.
Jim Davis
Metabus.org


--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Brian <rctoys@...> wrote:

From: Brian <rctoys@...>
Subject: [solectria_ev] Help with Solectria UMOC ans AC 55 motor
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 4:13 PM







 









       Hello all I am new to this group but not new to converting ev's. I have
done 4 conversions this last year. I am done ,, well sort of on my 4th one. I am
having issues with an error on my UMOC. I am getting the LED error, then
"overvolt" according to the manual this can be a serious or no so serious fault.
I have 100 LifePo4 cells in series. I have the setting in the parameter screen
set to 365vdc max and 250 vdc min. The car has no power not even enough to move
it. If the rear heels are in the air it will move the wheels very fast actually,
but on the ground nothing????? ????



I heard there are some experts on this site and I hope one of you help me out!!



Thanks



Brian



PS here is my build link if you care to look at the car

http://www.diyelect riccar.com/ forums/showthrea d.php/brians- next-ac-lifepo4-
ev-35419p40. html



you need to join real quick to see the pictures ( I suggest you do there are
some good ones)

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

amps set to 350 max

max I really want to use ever is 250 amps

I have set the max rpm for testing at 1000 rpm ( when the car was on the ground
I tried setting it to 5000 rpm) still no difference

Thanks for the reply!!!!!

Brian Nakonechny
R/C Toys Inc.
4609 West 75th Street
Prairie Village, KS 66208
913-648-0696 Bus
SKYPE :  rctoysinc
800-728-6976 Toll free
913-515-3711 Cell
913-515-3919 Cell
913-901-8540 Fax
WWW.Tanicpacks.com

   -----Original Message-----
   From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Jim Davis
   Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 7:51 AM
   To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Help with Solectria UMOC ans AC 55 motor



   Brian,

   What are your amp limits set to (and what have you calculated as the limit to
draw from that LifePo4 string)?

   Don't spin too fast with the wheels up.

   Amps determine torque (or torque requirements determine how many amps you
need).

   Regards.
   Jim Davis
   Metabus.org

   --- On Mon, 1/4/10, Brian <rctoys@...> wrote:

   From: Brian <rctoys@...>
   Subject: [solectria_ev] Help with Solectria UMOC ans AC 55 motor
   To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
   Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 4:13 PM



   Hello all I am new to this group but not new to converting ev's. I have done 4
conversions this last year. I am done ,, well sort of on my 4th one. I am having
issues with an error on my UMOC. I am getting the LED error, then "overvolt"
according to the manual this can be a serious or no so serious fault. I have 100
LifePo4 cells in series. I have the setting in the parameter screen set to
365vdc max and 250 vdc min. The car has no power not even enough to move it. If
the rear heels are in the air it will move the wheels very fast actually, but on
the ground nothing????? ????

   I heard there are some experts on this site and I hope one of you help me
out!!

   Thanks

   Brian

   PS here is my build link if you care to look at the car

   http://www.diyelect riccar.com/ forums/showthrea d.php/brians-
next-ac-lifepo4- ev-35419p40. html

   you need to join real quick to see the pictures ( I suggest you do there are
some good ones)

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The charger profile will not put out 9amps in section 3 unless I put a load on
the system like the heater or a/c or turn on a lot of something electric.

The factory profile works equally well summer or winter and the 9 amps is there
but never used unless you need to do so.

The charger is voltage regulated and will only put out the amps required to
maintain the float voltage which is very little.  If you get in the car with the
charger in section 3 and turn something on the charger will maintain the float
voltage by using up to 9 amps if needed.  This is the best scenario for the
batteries.

Most of the time in section 3 the charger is just doing a pulse of less than 1/2
an amp according to the monolog software. If your charger starts to put out a
higher amperage in section 3 and nothing is powered the batteries are not
holding a charge. But that will still not be a very high amp number.  I look at
section 3 totals with the mono software and to see the amount of current used.

The original Deka gel pack seems to thrive on the original profile. And  
Solectria recommends the charger be plugged in 24/7.

My personal choice is to have the batteries on a float all the time* and the
pack heaters turned off.  Where I live isn't all that cold but the heaters come
on and frequently get totally out of sync with each other. (*except as noted in
the summer when the OAT is in the 100's)

The battery heaters and the charger are totally unrelated to each other. Except
that the charger monitors the heat in each compartment and regulates charge
voltage based upon the highest temperature.  I simply removed the fuse for the
heaters and leave the charger connected.

FWIW my relatively new Greensaver pack will sit for many hours coming out of
section 2 before the charger does anything in section 3. the same would be true
of any relatively strong pack.

Happy Charging,

Mike R
97 Force

--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Mike Merbach <merbach1@...> wrote:
>
> I guess when I saw  (the potential) to draw 9 amps in section three, it
seemed odd to me that I would want to continue to Make heat and use (consume)Â
current.
>
> What set me off: "Section Four of the NLG4 profile that is saved in the files
section had no criterion. Yet Section five has a pass over to stop text in the
upper right hand corner...." I was unsure why that text is there and what was
triggering the pass-over to stop.
> I understand the forever float, I just did not want to waste current at a rate
of 9 amps. I too have unplugged the charger from the car leaving the tray
heaters on.
> I have resigned to make a summer and winter profile.
>
> thanks for the input. Mike R and Charles.
>
> Mike M
>
> Â
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: ldr214 <replytome@...>
> To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wed, December 30, 2009 3:51:54 PM
> Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Charge profile NLG4
>
> Â
>
> Mike I'm not exactly sure about your question. I agree with Ken that it just
floats forever in section 3 of the factory gel profile. The green light
indicating charge complete is turned on by the criteria section at the bottom of
the profile page. That light doesn't in of itself mean anything except that it
is turned on by the charger when the charger is in that section. You can set any
combination of lights.
>
> The charger goes to sect 3 "finished" section when it has completed sect 2. In
the factory profile section 2 is normally complete when the charger has put out
10% of the amount of charge (in energy/not time) it used in section 1.
> Example 10 AHs in section 1, would be 1 AH in section 2 and as soon as that
happens it goes to section 3. The numbers the charger is using will not always
be the same as on the dash AH meter.
>
> Many chargers do in fact shutdown or "finish" when they complete the profile.
The factory profile for the Solectria Force gel maintains the charger at a
"ready state" to supply up to 9 amps of charging current at 175.5V to maintain a
full pack.
>
> Section 4 and 5 are not used in the factory profile as there is no profile
reason for the charger to leave section 3.
>
> FWIW I personally unplug my charger on hot summer days as even in the float
section I can see the internal temp slowly climb and with the pack temp also
climbing there is pretty much no reason for me to have it plugged in when using
it daily. I also changed my section 3 so it times out after 12 hours and goes to
section 4 with a slightly lower float voltage as recommended by Greensaver. Some
other users have inserted a modified section 1 which starts the charge at a very
reduced amperage prior to continuing with the factory profile. so they also have
4 or more sections active. This eliminates the initial plug-in power surge.
>
> Other than the NLG5 this is probably the most versatile easily modified user
freindly charger available. Just not super robust
>
> Mike R
> 97 Force
>
> --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, Mike Merbach <merbach1@ .> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks to whomever loaded the NLG$ charging profile for the gel cells.
> >
> > My only question to the group in regards to the profile is "What criterion
does the charger use to finish?"
> >
> > Section five is: Pass over to Stop.
> >
> > But how does it know when, I can't seem to find a time variable to indicate
when passes.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Thanks Mike R

This is very helpful, I started to see the AH meter go negative and figured I
would boil the pack over night leaving them un-supervised at 9 Amps.

I guess my ignorance is showing. I am man enough for that. Again thank you.

Today I begin the bracket to hold the new charger in the old mount.

Mike




________________________________
From: ldr214 <replytome@...>
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, January 5, 2010 10:04:53 PM
Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Charge profile NLG4

 

The charger profile will not put out 9amps in section 3 unless I put a load on
the system like the heater or a/c or turn on a lot of something electric.

The factory profile works equally well summer or winter and the 9 amps is there
but never used unless you need to do so.

The charger is voltage regulated and will only put out the amps required to
maintain the float voltage which is very little. If you get in the car with the
charger in section 3 and turn something on the charger will maintain the float
voltage by using up to 9 amps if needed. This is the best scenario for the
batteries.

Most of the time in section 3 the charger is just doing a pulse of less than 1/2
an amp according to the monolog software. If your charger starts to put out a
higher amperage in section 3 and nothing is powered the batteries are not
holding a charge. But that will still not be a very high amp number. I look at
section 3 totals with the mono software and to see the amount of current used.

The original Deka gel pack seems to thrive on the original profile. And
Solectria recommends the charger be plugged in 24/7.

My personal choice is to have the batteries on a float all the time* and the
pack heaters turned off.. Where I live isn't all that cold but the heaters come
on and frequently get totally out of sync with each other. (*except as noted in
the summer when the OAT is in the 100's)

The battery heaters and the charger are totally unrelated to each other. Except
that the charger monitors the heat in each compartment and regulates charge
voltage based upon the highest temperature. I simply removed the fuse for the
heaters and leave the charger connected.

FWIW my relatively new Greensaver pack will sit for many hours coming out of
section 2 before the charger does anything in section 3. the same would be true
of any relatively strong pack.

Happy Charging,

Mike R
97 Force

--- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, Mike Merbach <merbach1@.. .> wrote:
>
> I guess when I saw (the potential) to draw 9 amps in section three, it
seemed odd to me that I would want to continue to Make heat and use (consume)Â
current.
>
> What set me off: "Section Four of the NLG4 profile that is saved in the files
section had no criterion. Yet Section five has a pass over to stop text in the
upper right hand corner...." I was unsure why that text is there and what was
triggering the pass-over to stop.
> I understand the forever float, I just did not want to waste current at a rate
of 9 amps. I too have unplugged the charger from the car leaving the tray
heaters on.
> I have resigned to make a summer and winter profile.
>
> thanks for the input. Mike R and Charles.
>
> Mike M
>
> Â
>
>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
> From: ldr214 <replytome@. ..>
> To: solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Wed, December 30, 2009 3:51:54 PM
> Subject: [solectria_ev] Re: Charge profile NLG4
>
> Â
>
> Mike I'm not exactly sure about your question. I agree with Ken that it just
floats forever in section 3 of the factory gel profile. The green light
indicating charge complete is turned on by the criteria section at the bottom of
the profile page. That light doesn't in of itself mean anything except that it
is turned on by the charger when the charger is in that section. You can set any
combination of lights.
>
> The charger goes to sect 3 "finished" section when it has completed sect 2. In
the factory profile section 2 is normally complete when the charger has put out
10% of the amount of charge (in energy/not time) it used in section 1.
> Example 10 AHs in section 1, would be 1 AH in section 2 and as soon as that
happens it goes to section 3. The numbers the charger is using will not always
be the same as on the dash AH meter.
>
> Many chargers do in fact shutdown or "finish" when they complete the profile.
The factory profile for the Solectria Force gel maintains the charger at a
"ready state" to supply up to 9 amps of charging current at 175.5V to maintain a
full pack.
>
> Section 4 and 5 are not used in the factory profile as there is no profile
reason for the charger to leave section 3.
>
> FWIW I personally unplug my charger on hot summer days as even in the float
section I can see the internal temp slowly climb and with the pack temp also
climbing there is pretty much no reason for me to have it plugged in when using
it daily. I also changed my section 3 so it times out after 12 hours and goes to
section 4 with a slightly lower float voltage as recommended by Greensaver. Some
other users have inserted a modified section 1 which starts the charge at a very
reduced amperage prior to continuing with the factory profile. so they also have
4 or more sections active. This eliminates the initial plug-in power surge.
>
> Other than the NLG5 this is probably the most versatile easily modified user
freindly charger available. Just not super robust
>
> Mike R
> 97 Force
>
> --- In solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com, Mike Merbach <merbach1@ .> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks to whomever loaded the NLG$ charging profile for the gel cells.
> >
> > My only question to the group in regards to the profile is "What criterion
does the charger use to finish?"
> >
> > Section five is: Pass over to Stop.
> >
> > But how does it know when, I can't seem to find a time variable to indicate
when passes.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Folks,

I have a 1996 Solectria E-10. One of my motors is making a bad noise and not
providing torque.  I dont know what kind of motor it is.  It is not labeled.  I
think it is the motor that Solectria put in it originally.

History
-------
I drove 16 of the 17 mile to work at 65 and he last mile at 20 mph (floored)
with the back end grinding and screeching.

I detached the motor controllers one at a time and determined the passenger side
motor was making the noise with either controller and not really pulling.  I
think than eliminates the a controller problem or a belt problem, and isolated
the problem to the motor.  There is nothing obviously wrong: no worn or broken
wires, burned up places, or shrapnel.

Query
-----
Has Anyone seen/heard this before?  What does a bad motor sound like?  How do I
test it?  If the motor is bad where do I get a new one?  What else might be
wrong?

Thanks in advance
Stephen

I would first look for a mechanical / bearing problem in the motor. Disconnect
the electrical motor connection, and the belt to that motor. Spin the motor by
hand. A bad bearing would be obvious. Also, verify that the output shaft does
not have any side play.

  Thanks,Bill S
Ph 832-338-3080
www.promotingevs.com




________________________________
From: SteveDill <stevedill@...>
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, January 9, 2010 3:02:48 PM
Subject: [solectria_ev] Sol E-10 Grindy motor


Hi Folks,

I have a 1996 Solectria E-10. One of my motors is making a bad noise and not
providing torque.  I dont know what kind of motor it is.  It is not labeled.  I
think it is the motor that Solectria put in it originally.

History
-------
I drove 16 of the 17 mile to work at 65 and he last mile at 20 mph (floored)
with the back end grinding and screeching.

I detached the motor controllers one at a time and determined the passenger side
motor was making the noise with either controller and not really pulling.  I
think than eliminates the a controller problem or a belt problem, and isolated
the problem to the motor.  There is nothing obviously wrong: no worn or broken
wires, burned up places, or shrapnel.

Query
-----
Has Anyone seen/heard this before?  What does a bad motor sound like?  How do I
test it?  If the motor is bad where do I get a new one?  What else might be
wrong?

Thanks in advance
Stephen




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Folks,

I have a solectria e-10 and the passenger side motor makes a screechy grinding
noise and does not provide any thrust.

It does it with either controller and the drive-side motor seems OK.  I cannot
see anything obviously wrong.

Anyone know what it means when the motor makes bad noises?

Thanks in advance
Stephen

1. e-10 motor grinding
     Posted by: "SteveDill"
     Date: Sun Jan 10, 2010 3:41 pm ((PST))

I have a solectria e-10 and the passenger side motor makes a screechy
grinding noise and does not provide any thrust.

It does it with either controller and the drive-side motor seems OK.  I
cannot see anything obviously wrong.

Anyone know what it means when the motor makes bad noises?

When it's making bad noises it's certainly not good.
Without getting into it further I would venture to say it is one of two
problems and more than likely both.

1.) Bad Bearing
2.) Encoder disk

The Screechy part of the noise is probably something scraping that isn't
supposed to be and the grinding is most likely a bad bearing.

The fact that the motor is not providing any thrust would indicate a bad
encoder because if it was merely a bad bearing and the encoder was still
correctly located it would still provide power.

My guess would be a bad bearing AND a bad encoder.

Jim - Glendale, AZ
www.evalbum.com/1703


--------------------------------------------------------------------
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Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the solectria_ev
group.

   File        : /connecticut-nicads.pdf
   Uploaded by : yankscool <yankscool@...>
   Description : Connecticut's experiment with a NiCad Force

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/solectria_ev/files/connecticut-nicads.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/forms/general.htmlfiles

Regards,

yankscool <yankscool@...>

Thank you for this report on NiCd batteries.  I have a "99" Force with NiCd
batteries.  They performed well up to about 24,000 miles but the range has been
reduced to less than 20 miles.  I will be trying to recover battery
performance.  Maybe only a couple of batteries have gone bad? If that is not
successful I will consider Li ion.  If anyone cares to share their experiences
with NiCd or Li ion I would like to hear from you.
Thx
Dick

--- On Wed, 1/13/10, solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:

From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com <solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [solectria_ev] New file uploaded to solectria_ev
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, January 13, 2010, 12:28 AM







 











Hello,



This email message is a notification to let you know that

a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the solectria_ev

group.



File        : /connecticut- nicads.pdf

   Uploaded by : yankscool <yankscool@yahoo. com>

   Description : Connecticut' s experiment with a NiCad Force



You can access this file at the URL:

http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/solectria_ ev/files/ connecticut- nicads.pdf



To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:

http://help. yahoo.com/ l/us/yahoo/ groups/original/ members/forms/
general.htmlfile s



Regards,



yankscool <yankscool@yahoo. com>



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Are the springs in the rear end stock or something custom?

I have a 1997 Force 4-door sedan. It has been off the road for a year
after moving. I'm replacing a bad battery and putting on new
tires/wheels to get it ready to use again.

However... the right rear wheel doesn't want to come off. I've been
through multiple rounds of soaking (Kroil penetrating oil) and heating
the wheel. Still no luck... getting a big puller is next, then
demolition methods.

Whilst working on the wheel, the bottom 6" of the rear coil came loose,
as in about a 1/2 turn of the spring. Apparently the vibrations from my
pounding on the wheel cracked a weak spot. The rest of the coil remains
in place but would likely pop out if used as-is.

I've also stayed away from coil replacements as being too tricky for a
driveway repair. So I figure I have to find a good suspension shop (ug)
and get the car towed (bigger ugh). But if it is a custom coil and not a
stock Geo part then it is a real headache. ???.



= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
NOTE: Mail sent to the "NO_REPLY" address will *not* reach me.
To send me a private message, please follow the directions here:
http://www.coate.org/contact_jim/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

My 99 NiCD Force lost several batteries at around 15,000 miles.  These
batteries actually burst open and in one case I could see the fumes coming out
during charging.
 
My understanding was prior to 1999 or 2000 (not sure which) there was a defect
in the battery design that could cause the problem I had.  I also don't
remember the details, but I think the seperator wasn't stout enough or something
along that lines. http://www.evdl.org/docs/saft-failures.pdf  I ended up
replacing the entire pack at my expense.  From everything I've heard the
problem doesn't exist with batteries made after 2000 or so.
 
Stephen Taylor

--- On Thu, 1/14/10, Dick Coin <dickcoin@...> wrote:


From: Dick Coin <dickcoin@...>
Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] New file uploaded to solectria_ev
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, January 14, 2010, 12:26 AM


 



Thank you for this report on NiCd batteries.  I have a "99" Force with NiCd
batteries.  They performed well up to about 24,000 miles but the range has been
reduced to less than 20 miles.  I will be trying to recover battery
performance.  Maybe only a couple of batteries have gone bad? If that is not
successful I will consider Li ion.  If anyone cares to share their experiences
with NiCd or Li ion I would like to hear from you.
Thx
Dick

--- On Wed, 1/13/10, solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com <solectria_ev@ yahoogroups.
com> wrote:

From: solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com <solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com>
Subject: [solectria_ev] New file uploaded to solectria_ev
To: solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Wednesday, January 13, 2010, 12:28 AM

 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that

a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the solectria_ev

group.

File : /connecticut- nicads.pdf

Uploaded by : yankscool <yankscool@yahoo. com>

Description : Connecticut' s experiment with a NiCad Force

You can access this file at the URL:

http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/solectria_ ev/files/ connecticut- nicads.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:

http://help. yahoo.com/ l/us/yahoo/ groups/original/ members/forms/
general..htmlfile s

Regards,

yankscool <yankscool@yahoo. com>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

So sorry to hear of your spring problem.  Can't help you there.

Concerning the stuck wheel, a lot of cars have this problem.  I had
the same trouble but my car was much newer at the time.  Blaster and
CRC 5-56 did no good.  I drove it to a dealer who removed the wheel by
using a rubber hammer pounding inward.  This caused the opposite side
to pop out.  I smeared anti-seize compound on the areas where rust was
causing the problem and also on the threads for the wheel nuts.  No
more trouble with stuck wheels.  I'm now a great believer in anti-
seize compound.

--Gordon Stallings--
1999 Force

On Jan 14, 2010, at 4:37 AM, Jim Coate wrote:

> Are the springs in the rear end stock or something custom?
>
> I have a 1997 Force 4-door sedan. It has been off the road for a year
> after moving. I'm replacing a bad battery and putting on new
> tires/wheels to get it ready to use again.
>
> However... the right rear wheel doesn't want to come off. I've been
> through multiple rounds of soaking (Kroil penetrating oil) and heating
> the wheel. Still no luck... getting a big puller is next, then
> demolition methods.
>
> Whilst working on the wheel, the bottom 6" of the rear coil came
> loose,
> as in about a 1/2 turn of the spring. Apparently the vibrations from
> my
> pounding on the wheel cracked a weak spot. The rest of the coil
> remains
> in place but would likely pop out if used as-is.
>
> I've also stayed away from coil replacements as being too tricky for a
> driveway repair. So I figure I have to find a good suspension shop
> (ug)
> and get the car towed (bigger ugh). But if it is a custom coil and
> not a
> stock Geo part then it is a real headache. ???.
>
>

It is my understanding that the rear springs were custom made for Solectria
because of the added weight of the batteries. I am also fighting the stuck wheel
problem on my 1997 Solectria Force.
Jim Barton
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Jim Coate
   To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 5:37 AM
   Subject: [solectria_ev] rear spring replacement



   Are the springs in the rear end stock or something custom?

   I have a 1997 Force 4-door sedan. It has been off the road for a year
   after moving. I'm replacing a bad battery and putting on new
   tires/wheels to get it ready to use again.

   However... the right rear wheel doesn't want to come off. I've been
   through multiple rounds of soaking (Kroil penetrating oil) and heating
   the wheel. Still no luck... getting a big puller is next, then
   demolition methods.

   Whilst working on the wheel, the bottom 6" of the rear coil came loose,
   as in about a 1/2 turn of the spring. Apparently the vibrations from my
   pounding on the wheel cracked a weak spot. The rest of the coil remains
   in place but would likely pop out if used as-is.

   I've also stayed away from coil replacements as being too tricky for a
   driveway repair. So I figure I have to find a good suspension shop (ug)
   and get the car towed (bigger ugh). But if it is a custom coil and not a
   stock Geo part then it is a real headache. ???.

   = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
   NOTE: Mail sent to the "NO_REPLY" address will *not* reach me.
   To send me a private message, please follow the directions here:
   http://www.coate.org/contact_jim/
   = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Try a bigger hammer.

  Thanks,Bill S
Ph 832-338-3080
www.promotingevs.com




________________________________
From: James Barton <james.barton@...>
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, January 14, 2010 10:07:16 AM
Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] rear spring replacement


It is my understanding that the rear springs were custom made for Solectria
because of the added weight of the batteries. I am also fighting the stuck wheel
problem on my 1997 Solectria Force.
Jim Barton
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Coate
To: solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 5:37 AM
Subject: [solectria_ev] rear spring replacement

Are the springs in the rear end stock or something custom?

I have a 1997 Force 4-door sedan. It has been off the road for a year
after moving. I'm replacing a bad battery and putting on new
tires/wheels to get it ready to use again.

However... the right rear wheel doesn't want to come off. I've been
through multiple rounds of soaking (Kroil penetrating oil) and heating
the wheel. Still no luck... getting a big puller is next, then
demolition methods.

Whilst working on the wheel, the bottom 6" of the rear coil came loose,
as in about a 1/2 turn of the spring. Apparently the vibrations from my
pounding on the wheel cracked a weak spot. The rest of the coil remains
in place but would likely pop out if used as-is.

I've also stayed away from coil replacements as being too tricky for a
driveway repair. So I figure I have to find a good suspension shop (ug)
and get the car towed (bigger ugh). But if it is a custom coil and not a
stock Geo part then it is a real headache. ???.

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
NOTE: Mail sent to the "NO_REPLY" address will *not* reach me.
To send me a private message, please follow the directions here:
http://www.coate. org/contact_ jim/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Loosen the lug nuts a little, drive around a little.  That should work the
wheels loose.

Disclaimer:  be really careful.



Somewhere I reacall someone saying that a Mustang spring worked but you had
to cut a little of it off.



From: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com [mailto:solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Coate
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 2:38 AM
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [solectria_ev] rear spring replacement





...
However... the right rear wheel doesn't want to come off. I've been
through multiple rounds of soaking (Kroil penetrating oil) and heating
the wheel. Still no luck... getting a big puller is next, then
demolition methods.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>
> Thank you for this report on NiCd batteries.  I have a
> "99" Force with NiCd batteries.  They performed well up
> to about 24,000 miles but the range has been reduced to
> less than 20 miles.  I will be trying to recover battery
> performance.  Maybe only a couple of batteries have gone
> bad? If that is not successful I will consider Li ion. 
> If anyone cares to share their experiences with NiCd or
> Li ion I would like to hear from you.
> Thx
> Dick

We have a 99 Force with NiCds and are passed 40,000 miles.
A few months ago I replaced 3 modules with used ones
and we're back on the road again. Not sure what our current
range is but it's beyond 20 miles. I have the feeling that
we should be able to revive the three old modules that
I removed from the car - partly because our NLG4 is only
a 1kW charger right now, so might have been to blame.
Nick

I need a new speed sensor board for my 97' Solectria Force sedan.  Anyone have
one for sale or know where I could find one?

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Bill or Dorothy Swann
   To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 8:23 AM
   Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] rear spring replacement



   Try a bigger hammer.

   Thanks,Bill S
   Ph 832-338-3080
   www.promotingevs.com

   ________________________________
   From: James Barton <james.barton@...>
   To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thu, January 14, 2010 10:07:16 AM
   Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] rear spring replacement

   It is my understanding that the rear springs were custom made for Solectria
because of the added weight of the batteries. I am also fighting the stuck wheel
problem on my 1997 Solectria Force.
   Jim Barton
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Jim Coate
   To: solectria_ev@ yahoogroups. com
   Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 5:37 AM
   Subject: [solectria_ev] rear spring replacement

   Are the springs in the rear end stock or something custom?

   I have a 1997 Force 4-door sedan. It has been off the road for a year
   after moving. I'm replacing a bad battery and putting on new
   tires/wheels to get it ready to use again.

   However... the right rear wheel doesn't want to come off. I've been
   through multiple rounds of soaking (Kroil penetrating oil) and heating
   the wheel. Still no luck... getting a big puller is next, then
   demolition methods.

   Whilst working on the wheel, the bottom 6" of the rear coil came loose,
   as in about a 1/2 turn of the spring. Apparently the vibrations from my
   pounding on the wheel cracked a weak spot. The rest of the coil remains
   in place but would likely pop out if used as-is.

   I've also stayed away from coil replacements as being too tricky for a
   driveway repair. So I figure I have to find a good suspension shop (ug)
   and get the car towed (bigger ugh). But if it is a custom coil and not a
   stock Geo part then it is a real headache. ???.

   = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
   NOTE: Mail sent to the "NO_REPLY" address will *not* reach me.
   To send me a private message, please follow the directions here:
   http://www.coate. org/contact_ jim/
   = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]