Azure Dynamics (Solectria) did fix my charger - yay.  It took 25 days
and cost $450 but they diagnosed a blown capacitor, replaced it, and
tested the charger.  They charge by the hour. Since Scott is new to this
since Kevin left Solectria, it's possible fewer hours would be needed in
the future for an equivalent repair.
    Again, Scott Parisi at Azure is at 781-932-9009, x285
    The other guy, Bruce Gowan at electronic-orphanage.com in New
Hampshire, is 603-627-9885. He says he may be able to fix dead Brusas
but I haven't tried him.
Joshua Goldstein

>   Let us know how things turn out on getting your brusa repaired. I think
there are alot of dead brusa chargers sitting around collecting dust. Mike young
>



>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Joshua Goldstein
>   To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 6:24 PM
>   Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Battery charger
>
>
>   Eric,
>   I recently had a fuse on the circuit board of my single (Brusa 412b)
>   charger blow repeatedly. It may be a different charger than yours. I
>   brought it to Scott Parisi, Kevin's replacement at Azure Dynamics
>   (Solectria), 781-932-9009, and he diagnosed that a capacitor had blown
>   up. (He thinks he can fix it but hasn't yet after several weeks.) If
>   they can't fix it, I will probably try a guy in New Hampshire
>   (Bruce@...) who says he may be able to fix these
>   chargers -- he's worked on Solectria Forces before. I'm not sure the
>   propriety of posting their contact info to the group so I apologize if
>   that was an error but these are the two places I know of that might be
>   able to fix the circuit boards on these chargers, so many of us might
>   need it someday. Hopefully there are other resources out there as well
>   which I'd like to know about.
>   Joshua
>
>   ehsif727 wrote:
>   > I have a 1996 Force with two 1000u chargers the one on the drivers
>   > side of the car works fine but the other one doesn't work. I took the
>   > unit out and took the cover off of it and found a fuse on a circuit
>   > board that was blown so I replaced it and reinstalled but that fuse
>   > blew to. If any one might have had this problem let me know also if
>   > any body has any of these old charges for sale let me know.
>   >
>   > Eric Fisher
>   >
>   >
>

I stumbled up this recently and in light of recent dicussions, thought
it might help some to see the picture:

http://www.evsource.com/tls_clearance.php


--
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak's
1997 Solectria Force
1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
http://www.eeevee.com

Jim,
Nice picture.

As everyone should know there are also pictures of all the Force
connectors with their "strange" names in the service manual Appendix
B. Unfortunately not in color. The wiring diagrams use the same names
and together with the rest of the manaul they aren't all that bad for
trouble shooting outside of the component guts.

Members can get the entire service manual in the files section. Not
the world's greatest service manual but the best one we seem to have.

Mike

--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Jim Coate <jbc@...> wrote:
>
> I stumbled up this recently and in light of recent dicussions, thought
> it might help some to see the picture:
>
> http://www.evsource.com/tls_clearance.php
>
>
> --
> Jim Coate
> 1970's Elec-Trak's
> 1997 Solectria Force
> 1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
> 1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
> http://www.eeevee.com
>

When I plug in the numbers for service on my Prius over 30000 miles, and the
Prius service costs are actually quite cheap,  I get a cost of around 3.4c
per mile not 1 c per mile.  That puts me up to 11.4 c per mile for the ICE
and service costs usually go up as mileage increases.

Noel


>From: "Gerard (Gary) Carlson " <gjc0@...>
>Reply-To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
>To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] $/Mile
>Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 14:06:08 -0400
>
>Folks:
>
>I have done similar measurements on my EV.
>My numbers are as follows, from outlet to asphalt:
>
>4 miles / KWH
>6 cents / KWH
>=>? 1.5 cents / mile
>
>Unfortunately, the batteries (MK 80 Amp-hour gels)
>wear out.? When you add this cost in, you get:
>
>30,000 miles per pack (estimate)
>$1,500 per pack (optimistic estimate)
>=> 5.0 cents per mile
>
>The total comes to 6.5 cents per mile.
>
>If you have an electricity cost of 16 cents per KWH and
>a battery cost of $2,000 per 25,000 miles the cost
>becomes:
>
>4 cents per mile (electricity)
>8 cents per mile (battery)
>=> 12 cents per mile total.
>
>A Geo Metro (my donor vehicle) gets:
>$3.20 per gallon / 40 miles/gallon
>=> 8 cents per mile.
>
>It appears that depending upon battery life and electric costs,
>our EVS are better or worse than the cost of an ICE machine.
>Even if you add another 1 cent per mile for ICE oil and filters,
>the cost is iffy.? Note that battery wear-out is the biggest cost.
>
>
>Your thoughts welcome,
>
>Gary Carlson
>1992 Solectria Force
>ID License:? AMPEATR
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Swann <dbswann4@...>
>To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 8:08 pm
>Subject: [solectria_ev] $/Mile
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>I installed a watt-hour meter to measure the kW-h going into a Zivan
>charger. Preliminary results indicate $0.033 / mile based on a $0.15 /
>kWatt-Hour cost to the light company and my driving habbits. It beats
>the heck out of $0.20 /mile, in fact .2 / .033 = 6 times bettah.
>Dont you love it!
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free
>from AOL at AOL.com.
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

_________________________________________________________________
More photos, more messages, more storage—get 2GB with Windows Live Hotmail.
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM\
_mini_2G_0507

Service costs on some vehicles can be almost considered criminal. $500
  isn't at all unusual for a friendly visit for almost no work. I think
the item getting "serviced" is mostly the car owner.

For those wanting to really skew the numbers in favor of a ICE metro
check out.......http://metrompg.com/
A light foot can make a difference.

Actually if you practice some of the techniques the hypermilers use
you can get lower KW per mile numbers. Which equate to more range if
you like.

I have thought about enclosing the underside of the Force but feel
like the aero stuff doesn't get to be a real big player until above 40.

Anyone done anything to the front intake or bottom?

Mike

  --- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "Noel Adams" <evfinder@...> wrote:
>
> When I plug in the numbers for service on my Prius over 30000 miles,
and the
> Prius service costs are actually quite cheap,  I get a cost of
around 3.4c
> per mile not 1 c per mile.  That puts me up to 11.4 c per mile for
the ICE
> and service costs usually go up as mileage increases.
>
> Noel
>
>
> >From: "Gerard (Gary) Carlson " <gjc0@...>
> >Reply-To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
> >To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] $/Mile
> >Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 14:06:08 -0400
> >
> >Folks:
> >
> >I have done similar measurements on my EV.
> >My numbers are as follows, from outlet to asphalt:
> >
> >4 miles / KWH
> >6 cents / KWH
> >=>? 1.5 cents / mile
> >
> >Unfortunately, the batteries (MK 80 Amp-hour gels)
> >wear out.? When you add this cost in, you get:
> >
> >30,000 miles per pack (estimate)
> >$1,500 per pack (optimistic estimate)
> >=> 5.0 cents per mile
> >
> >The total comes to 6.5 cents per mile.
> >
> >If you have an electricity cost of 16 cents per KWH and
> >a battery cost of $2,000 per 25,000 miles the cost
> >becomes:
> >
> >4 cents per mile (electricity)
> >8 cents per mile (battery)
> >=> 12 cents per mile total.
> >
> >A Geo Metro (my donor vehicle) gets:
> >$3.20 per gallon / 40 miles/gallon
> >=> 8 cents per mile.
> >
> >It appears that depending upon battery life and electric costs,
> >our EVS are better or worse than the cost of an ICE machine.
> >Even if you add another 1 cent per mile for ICE oil and filters,
> >the cost is iffy.? Note that battery wear-out is the biggest cost.
> >
> >
> >Your thoughts welcome,
> >
> >Gary Carlson
> >1992 Solectria Force
> >ID License:? AMPEATR
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Bill Swann <dbswann4@...>
> >To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
> >Sent: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 8:08 pm
> >Subject: [solectria_ev] $/Mile
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >I installed a watt-hour meter to measure the kW-h going into a Zivan
> >charger. Preliminary results indicate $0.033 / mile based on a $0.15 /
> >kWatt-Hour cost to the light company and my driving habbits. It beats
> >the heck out of $0.20 /mile, in fact .2 / .033 = 6 times bettah.
> >Dont you love it!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>________________________________________________________________________
> >AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's
free
> >from AOL at AOL.com.
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> More photos, more messages, more storage—get 2GB with Windows Live
Hotmail.
>
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM\
_mini_2G_0507
>

Hello,

I am a new member.  I recently baught a Solectria E-10.  I am having
problems.  I am not sure what information you will need to help me but
from reading other posts, I can kind of guess.

I am not sure about what kind of controllers I have.  The are black
boxes that say Solectria on them.  The documentation I got from the
previous owner is for both the Brusa 225/325 and 220/320.  So I do not
know which I have.  The truck is, judging from the volt meter, a 156
Volt system.  I seem to be able to pull a maximum of 150 Amps at full
acceleration.

I have two controllers and two motors.  Nothing is visibly wrong with
the controllers, wires or motors: burnt, disconnected, rusted or
broken.  I have not checked the batteries yet.   I was assured by the
previous owner that they have only 1200 miles on them.

The problems:

1. The truck is very weak.  I cannot go faster than 45 mph, and will
lose speed going up an overpass.  Acceleration is very slow and starts
with a jerk.  When I was test driving the truck this was a not the
case, but on the way home with it, I started to lose power at about 20 Ah.

2.  When I start out from a stop, at full charge, the truck will
sometimes completely lose power after just a few seconds.  Something
"clicks" in what seems to be the dashboard but is probably under the
hood, and I can do nothing but coast.  If I stop, turn off and restart
the truck, it will work fine.  Until the last time it happened when I
had to wait for several minutes.  At that time, when I turned the key,
nothing happened, no pumps or fans or anything See 3.  After a few
minutes it started working again.  When I got it home I noticed that
only one of the motors was warm.  The other one was cold.

3.  And this may be stupidity on my part or a complete red herring.
When I pulled the fuse cap off the one of the "accessory" fuses in the
front of the truck, it started arcing like crazy.  I am not sure  if I
was supposed to do that.  I do not know why I wanted to check that
fuse except that was where the "click" seemed to come from.

Any clues as to where and how I can start trouble shooting?  Like how
can I tell if my controller is bad?

Thanks in advance.

Welcome and sorry to hear you are having problems.

If you haven't looked in the E-10 files in the files section you
should do that. You can read the service manual etc.

As a memeber you can access them after signing in. I have a Force so I
  haven't looked at E-10 stuff but they should have the basics if they
are like the Force manual and will help in understanding what is
"normal".

Your controllers and motors should have spec decals on the sides.
Solectria is pretty good about labels. They made a few variations of
the E-10 so specifics will be helpful for those might be of more help
to you.

Until you mentioned the part about only having one warm motor and the
fuse issue it sounded to me like you're having an issue with a battery
in the pack. Or with a connection at a battery.

You might clarify what fuse was arching and was that with the power on
or off? You can anticipate an arch in connectiong a number of
componenets if they are taking a "charge" off of the battery. But
usually not as you described.

Mike
97 Force


--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, "SteveDill" <stevedill@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I am a new member.  I recently baught a Solectria E-10.  I am having
> problems.  I am not sure what information you will need to help me but
> from reading other posts, I can kind of guess.
>
> I am not sure about what kind of controllers I have.  The are black
> boxes that say Solectria on them.  The documentation I got from the
> previous owner is for both the Brusa 225/325 and 220/320.  So I do not
> know which I have.  The truck is, judging from the volt meter, a 156
> Volt system.  I seem to be able to pull a maximum of 150 Amps at full
> acceleration.
>
> I have two controllers and two motors.  Nothing is visibly wrong with
> the controllers, wires or motors: burnt, disconnected, rusted or
> broken.  I have not checked the batteries yet.   I was assured by the
> previous owner that they have only 1200 miles on them.
>
> The problems:
>
> 1. The truck is very weak.  I cannot go faster than 45 mph, and will
> lose speed going up an overpass.  Acceleration is very slow and starts
> with a jerk.  When I was test driving the truck this was a not the
> case, but on the way home with it, I started to lose power at about
20 Ah.
>
> 2.  When I start out from a stop, at full charge, the truck will
> sometimes completely lose power after just a few seconds.  Something
> "clicks" in what seems to be the dashboard but is probably under the
> hood, and I can do nothing but coast.  If I stop, turn off and restart
> the truck, it will work fine.  Until the last time it happened when I
> had to wait for several minutes.  At that time, when I turned the key,
> nothing happened, no pumps or fans or anything See 3.  After a few
> minutes it started working again.  When I got it home I noticed that
> only one of the motors was warm.  The other one was cold.
>
> 3.  And this may be stupidity on my part or a complete red herring.
> When I pulled the fuse cap off the one of the "accessory" fuses in the
> front of the truck, it started arcing like crazy.  I am not sure  if I
> was supposed to do that.  I do not know why I wanted to check that
> fuse except that was where the "click" seemed to come from.
>
> Any clues as to where and how I can start trouble shooting?  Like how
> can I tell if my controller is bad?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>

I believe that the ckicking is a relay that signals the controller to provide
power to the motors, or send the motors into regen mode. I say this because I
hear the click depending on the accelerator position. I do not hear the click
when I switch the switch labled "dry/slippery". There is a throttle position at
which the click occurs. I would investigate in this area. Is there a
"dry/slippery" switch?
Bill S


----- Original Message ----
From: SteveDill <stevedill@...>
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 4, 2007 12:57:14 PM
Subject: [solectria_ev] E-10 loses power

Hello,

I am a new member. I recently baught a Solectria E-10. I am having
problems. I am not sure what information you will need to help me but
from reading other posts, I can kind of guess.

I am not sure about what kind of controllers I have. The are black
boxes that say Solectria on them. The documentation I got from the
previous owner is for both the Brusa 225/325 and 220/320. So I do not
know which I have. The truck is, judging from the volt meter, a 156
Volt system. I seem to be able to pull a maximum of 150 Amps at full
acceleration.

I have two controllers and two motors. Nothing is visibly wrong with
the controllers, wires or motors: burnt, disconnected, rusted or
broken. I have not checked the batteries yet. I was assured by the
previous owner that they have only 1200 miles on them.

The problems:

1. The truck is very weak. I cannot go faster than 45 mph, and will
lose speed going up an overpass. Acceleration is very slow and starts
with a jerk. When I was test driving the truck this was a not the
case, but on the way home with it, I started to lose power at about 20 Ah.

2. When I start out from a stop, at full charge, the truck will
sometimes completely lose power after just a few seconds. Something
"clicks" in what seems to be the dashboard but is probably under the
hood, and I can do nothing but coast. If I stop, turn off and restart
the truck, it will work fine. Until the last time it happened when I
had to wait for several minutes. At that time, when I turned the key,
nothing happened, no pumps or fans or anything See 3. After a few
minutes it started working again. When I got it home I noticed that
only one of the motors was warm. The other one was cold.

3. And this may be stupidity on my part or a complete red herring.
When I pulled the fuse cap off the one of the "accessory" fuses in the
front of the truck, it started arcing like crazy. I am not sure if I
was supposed to do that. I do not know why I wanted to check that
fuse except that was where the "click" seemed to come from.

Any clues as to where and how I can start trouble shooting? Like how
can I tell if my controller is bad?

Thanks in advance.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Steve:

You need to pare down your symptoms first.
  Responses are in red bold  interspersed between questions in your message.
.


  ----- Original Message -----
   From: SteveDill
   To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 12:57 PM
   Subject: [solectria_ev] E-10 loses power


   Hello,

   I am a new member. I recently baught a Solectria E-10. I am having
   problems. I am not sure what information you will need to help me but
   from reading other posts, I can kind of guess.

   I am not sure about what kind of controllers I have. The are black
   boxes that say Solectria on them. The documentation I got from the
   previous owner is for both the Brusa 225/325 and 220/320. So I do not
   know which I have. The truck is, judging from the volt meter, a 156
   Volt system. I seem to be able to pull a maximum of 150 Amps at full
   acceleration.

   Your controllers will probably act the same regardless of model if they start
out good initially I don't think they are your problem.

   Depending on the type of batteries if the no load voltage on the pack voltage
meter reads 156VDC you probably have a nominal 144VDC system. What type of
batteries do you have and how many? Unlike the Force there can be a wide variety
of battery configurations in the E-10. Three strings of 12 paralleled, two
strings of 12 paralleled, twenty four batteries buddy paired (two single
batteries paralleled and then in series). How are yours wired?

   I have two controllers and two motors. Nothing is visibly wrong with
   the controllers, wires or motors: burnt, disconnected, rusted or
   broken. I have not checked the batteries yet. I was assured by the
   previous owner that they have only 1200 miles on them.

   The problems:

   1. The truck is very weak. I cannot go faster than 45 mph, and will
   lose speed going up an overpass. Acceleration is very slow and starts
   with a jerk. When I was test driving the truck this was a not the
   case, but on the way home with it, I started to lose power at about 20 Ah.

   This could be a battery problem if one string of batteries has a weak battery
by 20Ah it could drag down the system. What was the pack voltmeter reading at
the time you lost power? When you lose enough battery charge the voltage drops
then the controllers go into 'Limp Home Mode' which gives you about half power
to the motors this would be a normal programmed response to a weakened pack.

   2. When I start out from a stop, at full charge, the truck will
   sometimes completely lose power after just a few seconds. Something
   "clicks" in what seems to be the dashboard but is probably under the
   hood, and I can do nothing but coast. If I stop, turn off and restart
   the truck, it will work fine. Until the last time it happened when I
   had to wait for several minutes. At that time, when I turned the key,
   nothing happened, no pumps or fans or anything See 3. After a few
   minutes it started working again. When I got it home I noticed that
   only one of the motors was warm. The other one was cold.

   If you are in this condition lift up the bed and disconnect the controller to
the motor that was warm by disconnecting the smallest data cable leading to it.
After securing bed see if truck will drive; if not, the cool motor was/is not
working.

    Swap controllers  keeping the controller for the warm motor disconnected and
see if the truck runs. If it does the motors are good and the problem lies with
the controller. If it doesn't run this means the controller is not getting
proper signal or ignition voltage from the ignition module. Try connecting the
larger data cable going to the  controller on the side that works to the one
that doesn't if only one ignition module signal is absent it would run that
motor.

   This sounds like a problem with an ignition module not getting power this is
harder to check. I had this problem , first observe the voltmeter in the dash
for low accessory voltage. If it sags low, ignition signal could drop out. The
other check is to open up the box with the controls and meters and measure with
a meter the voltage to each ignition module. There is a diagram of this in the
Manual with the "pin outs".





   3. And this may be stupidity on my part or a complete red herring.
   When I pulled the fuse cap off the one of the "accessory" fuses in the
   front of the truck, it started arcing like crazy. I am not sure if I
   was supposed to do that. I do not know why I wanted to check that
   fuse except that was where the "click" seemed to come from.

   Don't disconnect fuse with the accessories under load, instead turn off
ignition first disconnect the 2 pin large anderson connector from the DC/DC
Convertor which is the source of all accessory power. Fuses or connectors will
arc on you underload as the currents here are much higher than with house
current due to the lower voltage. The small Molex or rectangular nylon
connectors have pins that can be damaged if you dissconnect/connect them under
load. If you must work under power disconnect/connect using the Anderson
connectors as they are designed to take the current you will hear them pop when
they connect it is OK.

    The click is I beleive assiociated with the ignition module.

   Any clues as to where and how I can start trouble shooting? Like how
   can I tell if my controller is bad?

   Thanks in advance.

   Good luck
   Art




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Steve:

   I would also suggest providing a location of your truck (and you).  You may be
suprised how close an answer could be.

   Jim
   Westwood, KS

arthur marquardt <inominate@...> wrote:
           Steve:

You need to pare down your symptoms first.
Responses are in red bold interspersed between questions in your message.
.

----- Original Message -----
From: SteveDill
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 12:57 PM
Subject: [solectria_ev] E-10 loses power

Hello,

I am a new member. I recently baught a Solectria E-10. I am having
problems. I am not sure what information you will need to help me but
from reading other posts, I can kind of guess.

I am not sure about what kind of controllers I have. The are black
boxes that say Solectria on them. The documentation I got from the
previous owner is for both the Brusa 225/325 and 220/320. So I do not
know which I have. The truck is, judging from the volt meter, a 156
Volt system. I seem to be able to pull a maximum of 150 Amps at full
acceleration.

Your controllers will probably act the same regardless of model if they start
out good initially I don't think they are your problem.

Depending on the type of batteries if the no load voltage on the pack voltage
meter reads 156VDC you probably have a nominal 144VDC system. What type of
batteries do you have and how many? Unlike the Force there can be a wide variety
of battery configurations in the E-10. Three strings of 12 paralleled, two
strings of 12 paralleled, twenty four batteries buddy paired (two single
batteries paralleled and then in series). How are yours wired?

I have two controllers and two motors. Nothing is visibly wrong with
the controllers, wires or motors: burnt, disconnected, rusted or
broken. I have not checked the batteries yet. I was assured by the
previous owner that they have only 1200 miles on them.

The problems:

1. The truck is very weak. I cannot go faster than 45 mph, and will
lose speed going up an overpass. Acceleration is very slow and starts
with a jerk. When I was test driving the truck this was a not the
case, but on the way home with it, I started to lose power at about 20 Ah.

This could be a battery problem if one string of batteries has a weak battery by
20Ah it could drag down the system. What was the pack voltmeter reading at the
time you lost power? When you lose enough battery charge the voltage drops then
the controllers go into 'Limp Home Mode' which gives you about half power to the
motors this would be a normal programmed response to a weakened pack.

2. When I start out from a stop, at full charge, the truck will
sometimes completely lose power after just a few seconds. Something
"clicks" in what seems to be the dashboard but is probably under the
hood, and I can do nothing but coast. If I stop, turn off and restart
the truck, it will work fine. Until the last time it happened when I
had to wait for several minutes. At that time, when I turned the key,
nothing happened, no pumps or fans or anything See 3. After a few
minutes it started working again. When I got it home I noticed that
only one of the motors was warm. The other one was cold.

If you are in this condition lift up the bed and disconnect the controller to
the motor that was warm by disconnecting the smallest data cable leading to it.
After securing bed see if truck will drive; if not, the cool motor was/is not
working.

Swap controllers keeping the controller for the warm motor disconnected and see
if the truck runs. If it does the motors are good and the problem lies with the
controller. If it doesn't run this means the controller is not getting proper
signal or ignition voltage from the ignition module. Try connecting the larger
data cable going to the controller on the side that works to the one that
doesn't if only one ignition module signal is absent it would run that motor.

This sounds like a problem with an ignition module not getting power this is
harder to check. I had this problem , first observe the voltmeter in the dash
for low accessory voltage. If it sags low, ignition signal could drop out. The
other check is to open up the box with the controls and meters and measure with
a meter the voltage to each ignition module. There is a diagram of this in the
Manual with the "pin outs".

3. And this may be stupidity on my part or a complete red herring.
When I pulled the fuse cap off the one of the "accessory" fuses in the
front of the truck, it started arcing like crazy. I am not sure if I
was supposed to do that. I do not know why I wanted to check that
fuse except that was where the "click" seemed to come from.

Don't disconnect fuse with the accessories under load, instead turn off ignition
first disconnect the 2 pin large anderson connector from the DC/DC Convertor
which is the source of all accessory power. Fuses or connectors will arc on you
underload as the currents here are much higher than with house current due to
the lower voltage. The small Molex or rectangular nylon connectors have pins
that can be damaged if you dissconnect/connect them under load. If you must work
under power disconnect/connect using the Anderson connectors as they are
designed to take the current you will hear them pop when they connect it is OK.

The click is I beleive assiociated with the ignition module.

Any clues as to where and how I can start trouble shooting? Like how
can I tell if my controller is bad?

Thanks in advance.

Good luck
Art

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

What it is the right float voltage for Deka Dominator 8G27 batteries?
I now have the NLG412B that Solectria fixed for my cousin Joshua
Goldstein, and it seems to have higher current in the float phase than
my previous one.  On a quite hot day, I measured float voltage of
177.1V (13.62 volts per battery, 2.271 volts per cell).  It
accumulates nearly 2AH per day on the amp hour meter, which is about
80mA.  (I suspect the latter reading is not to be trusted.  A meter
which can measure 200A is unlikely to be able to measure 80mA with any
degree of accuracy.)

Does this seem reasonable, or is it too high?

                                         Ken

Charge Voltage Cycle 2.30 to 2.35;
@ 68ºF (20ºC) Float 2.25 to 2.30 v.p.c.

Above numbers copied out of east penn/MK data sheet for the gel.

My recollection of what was set in my charger before was a number on
the lower side of the range (175+). But I didn't have a voltmeter
installed and didn't check it often. I calculate a range of
175.5-179.4 allowing for a tolerance difference in voltmeters and all
that stuff 177 would appear to be in range. You could adjust it.

Mike

..http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0919.pdf




--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Ken Olum <kdo@...> wrote:
>
> What it is the right float voltage for Deka Dominator 8G27 batteries?
> I now have the NLG412B that Solectria fixed for my cousin Joshua
> Goldstein, and it seems to have higher current in the float phase than
> my previous one.  On a quite hot day, I measured float voltage of
> 177.1V (13.62 volts per battery, 2.271 volts per cell).  It
> accumulates nearly 2AH per day on the amp hour meter, which is about
> 80mA.  (I suspect the latter reading is not to be trusted.  A meter
> which can measure 200A is unlikely to be able to measure 80mA with any
> degree of accuracy.)
>
> Does this seem reasonable, or is it too high?
>
>                                         Ken
>

I'm almost positive the programmed float voltage is 176.5 volts in the NLG4s. 
What it does with that number based on the temperature probes is unknown to me.

   Stephen Taylor

ldr214 <replytome@...> wrote:
           Charge Voltage Cycle 2.30 to 2.35;
@ 68ºF (20ºC) Float 2.25 to 2.30 v.p.c.

Above numbers copied out of east penn/MK data sheet for the gel.

My recollection of what was set in my charger before was a number on
the lower side of the range (175+). But I didn't have a voltmeter
installed and didn't check it often. I calculate a range of
175.5-179.4 allowing for a tolerance difference in voltmeters and all
that stuff 177 would appear to be in range. You could adjust it.

Mike

..http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0919.pdf

--- In solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com, Ken Olum <kdo@...> wrote:
>
> What it is the right float voltage for Deka Dominator 8G27 batteries?
> I now have the NLG412B that Solectria fixed for my cousin Joshua
> Goldstein, and it seems to have higher current in the float phase than
> my previous one. On a quite hot day, I measured float voltage of
> 177.1V (13.62 volts per battery, 2.271 volts per cell). It
> accumulates nearly 2AH per day on the amp hour meter, which is about
> 80mA. (I suspect the latter reading is not to be trusted. A meter
> which can measure 200A is unlikely to be able to measure 80mA with any
> degree of accuracy.)
>
> Does this seem reasonable, or is it too high?
>
> Ken
>






---------------------------------
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for the posts.  I will start check some of the stuff proposed
and let you know the outcome, and probably ask more questions.


--- SteveDill <stevedill@...> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I am a new member.  I recently baught a Solectria E-10.  I am having
> problems.  I am not sure what information you will need to help me
> but
> from reading other posts, I can kind of guess.
>

<snip>




________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows.
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I and the truck are in San Jose, CA.

Steve

--- jim donovan <donovan66205@...> wrote:

> Steve:
>
>   I would also suggest providing a location of your truck (and you).
> You may be suprised how close an answer could be.
>
>   Jim
>   Westwood, KS
>
> arthur marquardt <inominate@...> wrote:
>           Steve:
>
> You need to pare down your symptoms first.
> Responses are in red bold interspersed between questions in your
> message.
> .
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: SteveDill
> To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 12:57 PM
> Subject: [solectria_ev] E-10 loses power
>
> Hello,
>
> I am a new member. I recently baught a Solectria E-10. I am having
> problems. I am not sure what information you will need to help me but
> from reading other posts, I can kind of guess.
>
> I am not sure about what kind of controllers I have. The are black
> boxes that say Solectria on them. The documentation I got from the
> previous owner is for both the Brusa 225/325 and 220/320. So I do not
> know which I have. The truck is, judging from the volt meter, a 156
> Volt system. I seem to be able to pull a maximum of 150 Amps at full
> acceleration.
>
> Your controllers will probably act the same regardless of model if
> they start out good initially I don't think they are your problem.
>
> Depending on the type of batteries if the no load voltage on the pack
> voltage meter reads 156VDC you probably have a nominal 144VDC system.
> What type of batteries do you have and how many? Unlike the Force
> there can be a wide variety of battery configurations in the E-10.
> Three strings of 12 paralleled, two strings of 12 paralleled, twenty
> four batteries buddy paired (two single batteries paralleled and then
> in series). How are yours wired?
>
> I have two controllers and two motors. Nothing is visibly wrong with
> the controllers, wires or motors: burnt, disconnected, rusted or
> broken. I have not checked the batteries yet. I was assured by the
> previous owner that they have only 1200 miles on them.
>
> The problems:
>
> 1. The truck is very weak. I cannot go faster than 45 mph, and will
> lose speed going up an overpass. Acceleration is very slow and starts
> with a jerk. When I was test driving the truck this was a not the
> case, but on the way home with it, I started to lose power at about
> 20 Ah.
>
> This could be a battery problem if one string of batteries has a weak
> battery by 20Ah it could drag down the system. What was the pack
> voltmeter reading at the time you lost power? When you lose enough
> battery charge the voltage drops then the controllers go into 'Limp
> Home Mode' which gives you about half power to the motors this would
> be a normal programmed response to a weakened pack.
>
> 2. When I start out from a stop, at full charge, the truck will
> sometimes completely lose power after just a few seconds. Something
> "clicks" in what seems to be the dashboard but is probably under the
> hood, and I can do nothing but coast. If I stop, turn off and restart
> the truck, it will work fine. Until the last time it happened when I
> had to wait for several minutes. At that time, when I turned the key,
> nothing happened, no pumps or fans or anything See 3. After a few
> minutes it started working again. When I got it home I noticed that
> only one of the motors was warm. The other one was cold.
>
> If you are in this condition lift up the bed and disconnect the
> controller to the motor that was warm by disconnecting the smallest
> data cable leading to it. After securing bed see if truck will drive;
> if not, the cool motor was/is not working.
>
> Swap controllers keeping the controller for the warm motor
> disconnected and see if the truck runs. If it does the motors are
> good and the problem lies with the controller. If it doesn't run this
> means the controller is not getting proper signal or ignition voltage
> from the ignition module. Try connecting the larger data cable going
> to the controller on the side that works to the one that doesn't if
> only one ignition module signal is absent it would run that motor.
>
> This sounds like a problem with an ignition module not getting power
> this is harder to check. I had this problem , first observe the
> voltmeter in the dash for low accessory voltage. If it sags low,
> ignition signal could drop out. The other check is to open up the box
> with the controls and meters and measure with a meter the voltage to
> each ignition module. There is a diagram of this in the Manual with
> the "pin outs".
>
> 3. And this may be stupidity on my part or a complete red herring.
> When I pulled the fuse cap off the one of the "accessory" fuses in
> the
> front of the truck, it started arcing like crazy. I am not sure if I
> was supposed to do that. I do not know why I wanted to check that
> fuse except that was where the "click" seemed to come from.
>
> Don't disconnect fuse with the accessories under load, instead turn
> off ignition first disconnect the 2 pin large anderson connector from
> the DC/DC Convertor which is the source of all accessory power. Fuses
> or connectors will arc on you underload as the currents here are much
> higher than with house current due to the lower voltage. The small
> Molex or rectangular nylon connectors have pins that can be damaged
> if you dissconnect/connect them under load. If you must work under
> power disconnect/connect using the Anderson connectors as they are
> designed to take the current you will hear them pop when they connect
> it is OK.
>
> The click is I beleive assiociated with the ignition module.
>
> Any clues as to where and how I can start trouble shooting? Like how
> can I tell if my controller is bad?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Good luck
> Art
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
> Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at
> Yahoo! Games.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>




________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469

I am very interested in finding another Solectria Force.
Anyone know of one for sale or soon to be? It doesn't have to be running
just prefer one that is complete and repairable. Condition of batteries
not important.

Don Buckshot
Roeland Park,Ks 66205
913-789-0889

Don,

There is a chance I will sell mine in the next few months. Keep in
touch if you are not able to find one. It's a 2001 and one of the
last five built.
Ken Martin

On Aug 6, 2007, at 2:24 PM, Don Buckshot wrote:

> I am very interested in finding another Solectria Force.
> Anyone know of one for sale or soon to be? It doesn't have to be
> running
> just prefer one that is complete and repairable. Condition of
> batteries
> not important.
>
> Don Buckshot
> Roeland Park,Ks 66205
> 913-789-0889
>
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I will be selling mine in the near future. It's a 97,
Im the second owner, all original doc, heater, new
tires, it has 55k miles, it's in great condition. I'm
not sure if I should go to the dark side and put it on
EBay...it's just easier to do that I guess...

Curt

--- Don Buckshot <buckshot@...> wrote:

> I am very interested in finding another Solectria
> Force.
> Anyone know of one for sale or soon to be? It
> doesn't have to be running
> just prefer one that is complete and repairable.
> Condition of batteries
> not important.
>
> Don Buckshot
> Roeland Park,Ks 66205
> 913-789-0889
>




________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433

The Electric Utility I work for is auctioning (1) 1997 Solectria
Force.  The details can be found on our website.
http://www.snew.org

I would like to see the group at least post on the group first and give our
friends and family (that we have been indoctrinating for years) at chance at
getting one. If no takers, or no one meets your price, then use Craig's list
or the EVweb site's For Sale list. (That's where I got mine.)

Sioux in Santa Clara


On 8/7/07, Curtis Peredina <cjperedina@...> wrote:
>
> I will be selling mine in the near future. It's a 97,
> Im the second owner, all original doc, heater, new
> tires, it has 55k miles, it's in great condition. I'm
> not sure if I should go to the dark side and put it on
> EBay...it's just easier to do that I guess...
>
> Curt
>
> --- Don Buckshot <buckshot@...> wrote:
>
> > I am very interested in finding another Solectria
> > Force.
> > Anyone know of one for sale or soon to be? It
> > doesn't have to be running
> > just prefer one that is complete and repairable.
> > Condition of batteries
> > not important.
> >
> > Don Buckshot
> > Roeland Park,Ks 66205
> > 913-789-0889
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________\
____
> Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who
> knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sioux - that's fair. I will post it on this list before I do anything with EBay.

Curt


----- Original Message ----
From: sioux ammerman <siouxtrees@...>
To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2007 1:04:43 PM
Subject: Re: [solectria_ev] Want to find a Solectria Force

I would like to see the group at least post on the group first and give our
friends and family (that we have been indoctrinating for years) at chance at
getting one. If no takers, or no one meets your price, then use Craig's list
or the EVweb site's For Sale list. (That's where I got mine.)

Sioux in Santa Clara

On 8/7/07, Curtis Peredina <cjperedina@yahoo. com> wrote:
>
> I will be selling mine in the near future. It's a 97,
> Im the second owner, all original doc, heater, new
> tires, it has 55k miles, it's in great condition. I'm
> not sure if I should go to the dark side and put it on
> EBay...it's just easier to do that I guess...
>
> Curt
>
> --- Don Buckshot <buckshot@planetkc. com> wrote:
>
> > I am very interested in finding another Solectria
> > Force.
> > Anyone know of one for sale or soon to be? It
> > doesn't have to be running
> > just prefer one that is complete and repairable.
> > Condition of batteries
> > not important.
> >
> > Don Buckshot
> > Roeland Park,Ks 66205
> > 913-789-0889
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who
> knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> http://answers. yahoo.com/ dir/?link= list&sid= 396545433
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play
Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
http://sims.yahoo.com/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Results of testing.

I disconnect the controller (right) to the motor that was warm, and the
truck did not go.

I reconnected the right controller and disconnected the left controller
(sanity check that one disconnected controller was not a stopper) and
the truck went.

I swapped the small data cables and the truck went.

Your instructions get a bit confusing here.  "Swap controllers  keeping
the controller for the warm motor disconnected and see if the truck
runs. If it does the motors are good and the problem lies with the
controller" I am interpreting that to mean moving the three big wires
going to the motors from the controller.   If the known good controller
(right) works with the unknown (left) motor, then I have a bad right
controller, as I have just tested the both motors and controllers.

Oh and I found a sticker on the suspected bad controller that say
AMC325. The other controller has no markings.


Thanks.
Steve

--- arthur marquardt <inominate@...> wrote:

> Steve:
>
> You need to pare down your symptoms first.
>  Responses are in red bold  interspersed between questions in your
> message.
> .
>
>
>  ----- Original Message -----
>   From: SteveDill
>   To: solectria_ev@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 12:57 PM
>   Subject: [solectria_ev] E-10 loses power
>
>
>   Hello,
>
>   I am a new member. I recently baught a Solectria E-10. I am having
>   problems. I am not sure what information you will need to help me
> but
>   from reading other posts, I can kind of guess.
>
>   I am not sure about what kind of controllers I have. The are black
>   boxes that say Solectria on them. The documentation I got from the
>   previous owner is for both the Brusa 225/325 and 220/320. So I do
> not
>   know which I have. The truck is, judging from the volt meter, a 156
>   Volt system. I seem to be able to pull a maximum of 150 Amps at
> full
>   acceleration.
>
>   Your controllers will probably act the same regardless of model if
> they start out good initially I don't think they are your problem.
>
>   Depending on the type of batteries if the no load voltage on the
> pack voltage meter reads 156VDC you probably have a nominal 144VDC
> system. What type of batteries do you have and how many? Unlike the
> Force there can be a wide variety of battery configurations in the
> E-10. Three strings of 12 paralleled, two strings of 12 paralleled,
> twenty four batteries buddy paired (two single batteries paralleled
> and then in series). How are yours wired?
>
>   I have two controllers and two motors. Nothing is visibly wrong
> with
>   the controllers, wires or motors: burnt, disconnected, rusted or
>   broken. I have not checked the batteries yet. I was assured by the
>   previous owner that they have only 1200 miles on them.
>
>   The problems:
>
>   1. The truck is very weak. I cannot go faster than 45 mph, and will
>   lose speed going up an overpass. Acceleration is very slow and
> starts
>   with a jerk. When I was test driving the truck this was a not the
>   case, but on the way home with it, I started to lose power at about
> 20 Ah.
>
>   This could be a battery problem if one string of batteries has a
> weak battery by 20Ah it could drag down the system. What was the pack
> voltmeter reading at the time you lost power? When you lose enough
> battery charge the voltage drops then the controllers go into 'Limp
> Home Mode' which gives you about half power to the motors this would
> be a normal programmed response to a weakened pack.
>
>   2. When I start out from a stop, at full charge, the truck will
>   sometimes completely lose power after just a few seconds. Something
>   "clicks" in what seems to be the dashboard but is probably under
> the
>   hood, and I can do nothing but coast. If I stop, turn off and
> restart
>   the truck, it will work fine. Until the last time it happened when
> I
>   had to wait for several minutes. At that time, when I turned the
> key,
>   nothing happened, no pumps or fans or anything See 3. After a few
>   minutes it started working again. When I got it home I noticed that
>   only one of the motors was warm. The other one was cold.
>
>   If you are in this condition lift up the bed and disconnect the
> controller to the motor that was warm by disconnecting the smallest
> data cable leading to it. After securing bed see if truck will drive;
> if not, the cool motor was/is not working.
>
>    Swap controllers  keeping the controller for the warm motor
> disconnected and see if the truck runs. If it does the motors are
> good and the problem lies with the controller. If it doesn't run this
> means the controller is not getting proper signal or ignition voltage
> from the ignition module. Try connecting the larger data cable going
> to the  controller on the side that works to the one that doesn't if
> only one ignition module signal is absent it would run that motor.
>
>   This sounds like a problem with an ignition module not getting
> power this is harder to check. I had this problem , first observe the
> voltmeter in the dash for low accessory voltage. If it sags low,
> ignition signal could drop out. The other check is to open up the box
> with the controls and meters and measure with a meter the voltage to
> each ignition module. There is a diagram of this in the Manual with
> the "pin outs".
>
>
>
>
>
>   3. And this may be stupidity on my part or a complete red herring.
>   When I pulled the fuse cap off the one of the "accessory" fuses in
> the
>   front of the truck, it started arcing like crazy. I am not sure if
> I
>   was supposed to do that. I do not know why I wanted to check that
>   fuse except that was where the "click" seemed to come from.
>
>   Don't disconnect fuse with the accessories under load, instead turn
> off ignition first disconnect the 2 pin large anderson connector from
> the DC/DC Convertor which is the source of all accessory power. Fuses
> or connectors will arc on you underload as the currents here are much
> higher than with house current due to the lower voltage. The small
> Molex or rectangular nylon connectors have pins that can be damaged
> if you dissconnect/connect them under load. If you must work under
> power disconnect/connect using the Anderson connectors as they are
> designed to take the current you will hear them pop when they connect
> it is OK.
>
>    The click is I beleive assiociated with the ignition module.
>
>   Any clues as to where and how I can start trouble shooting? Like
> how
>   can I tell if my controller is bad?
>
>   Thanks in advance.
>
>   Good luck
>   Art
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>




________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Need a vacation? Get great deals
to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.
http://travel.yahoo.com/

Results of testing.

   I disconnect the controller (right) to the motor that was warm, and the
   truck did not go.

   I reconnected the right controller and disconnected the left controller
   (sanity check that one disconnected controller was not a stopper) and
   the truck went.

   I swapped the small data cables and the truck went.

   Your instructions get a bit confusing here. "Swap controllers keeping
   the controller for the warm motor disconnected and see if the truck
   runs. If it does the motors are good and the problem lies with the
   controller" I am interpreting that to mean moving the three big wires
   going to the motors from the controller. If the known good controller
   (right) works with the unknown (left) motor, then I have a bad right
   controller, as I have just tested the both motors and controllers.
   Oh and I found a sticker on the suspected bad controller that say
   AMC325. The other controller has no markings.

   Thanks.
   Steve

   Steve:

   Congratulations you just cut your symptoms in half. You have a working side
and a non-working side of your traction drive. Label the controller that is on
the working side as good. Now physically remove both controllers and put the
good one on the non working side. Hook this one up and don't hook up the other.
This way only the controller is different.

   Does it run?

   If yes, then it is probably the controller that was on that side that is bad.

    If not, then take the questionable controller and hook it up to the working
side and disconnect the controller marked good which you just put on the
non-working side. You are now checking the questionable  controller on the side
where everything else was working.

   Does it run?

   If Yes, the questionable controller is good. Both controllers should be good.

   If not, The controller is probably bad. Look for simple things like data cable
pins that are loose or bent on the controller. other than that you may need a
new one. Be carefull with the battery power connectors it is lethal voltage and
current.

   Write back when you have done this you will either know the problem or further
troubleshooting will be required.

   Art

   More good luck


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi, I have a 1995 Solectria Force. I am the second owner. Last summer,
the charger blew a fuse. I got someone to look at the charger and he
took it and wouldn't return it until almost half a year later. He said
I didn't have to worry about not charging the batteries.

Well, of course, the batteries are not dead.

He said that he has repaired the charger.

I've tried to find other people in the Los Angeles area to help me
repair the car, but haven't been very successful.

So I am thinking of selling the car. I still owe money on it from the
loan, but, of course, even if I get new batteries, I don't see how I
can maintain it. I am also now on partial disability.

I am in the San Gabriel Valley (Pasadena).

If anyone is interested, send me an email.

I am interested.  Can we discuss details - condition of car, its operating
condition, price, etc.

   Jim
   913.236.9466


sunnybanklad <sunnybanklad@...> wrote:
           Hi, I have a 1995 Solectria Force. I am the second owner. Last summer,
the charger blew a fuse. I got someone to look at the charger and he
took it and wouldn't return it until almost half a year later. He said
I didn't have to worry about not charging the batteries.

Well, of course, the batteries are not dead.

He said that he has repaired the charger.

I've tried to find other people in the Los Angeles area to help me
repair the car, but haven't been very successful.

So I am thinking of selling the car. I still owe money on it from the
loan, but, of course, even if I get new batteries, I don't see how I
can maintain it. I am also now on partial disability.

I am in the San Gabriel Valley (Pasadena).

If anyone is interested, send me an email.






---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder
tool.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The car is in good condition. It was originally from
Vermont so there is some rust, but nothing major.

The batteries are too weak to be charged and so need
to be replaced.

Because it has a commuter lane sticker, I'm asking 11K
or best offer.

Someone told me a running Force would be worth 15K.

I'm very sad to let this go, but I can't find anyone
to help me fix it and the person who took the charger
and wouldn't even return it when I asked, wanted to do
some experimental charging of the batteries, but feels
no financial responsibility for the car or the now
dead batteries even though he knows the batteries were
fine when he took the charger.


Jana
--- jim donovan <donovan66205@...> wrote:

> I am interested.  Can we discuss details - condition
> of car, its operating condition, price, etc.
>
>   Jim
>   913.236.9466
>
>
> sunnybanklad <sunnybanklad@...> wrote:
>           Hi, I have a 1995 Solectria Force. I am
> the second owner. Last summer,
> the charger blew a fuse. I got someone to look at
> the charger and he
> took it and wouldn't return it until almost half a
> year later. He said
> I didn't have to worry about not charging the
> batteries.
>
> Well, of course, the batteries are not dead.
>
> He said that he has repaired the charger.
>
> I've tried to find other people in the Los Angeles
> area to help me
> repair the car, but haven't been very successful.
>
> So I am thinking of selling the car. I still owe
> money on it from the
> loan, but, of course, even if I get new batteries, I
> don't see how I
> can maintain it. I am also now on partial
> disability.
>
> I am in the San Gabriel Valley (Pasadena).
>
> If anyone is interested, send me an email.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Choose the right car based on your needs.  Check out
> Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




________________________________________________________________________________\
____
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I just stumbled across a guy in TN who has a s10 for sale.  He is not an EV
person and doesn't know anything about the vehicle.  He purchased if from GA
power a year or two ago, and it is sitting in his yard and wants to sell it.
He says he has a title for it.  I have seen pictures and it is a solectria
s10.  I believe he told me it had 3k miles on it.  If anyone is interested
his name is Terry.  His email is terrychambers@....  I hope this helps
someone looking for one.  steve

The commuter lane sticker is nice, but of no use to me.  My biggest hangup is
accessories.  Does it have airconditioning?  Does it have pre-heat?  Does it
have battery warming pads (look inside the trunk where the AC line goes from the
charging port to the charger and see if there is a black box with three fuses on
it, one for preheat, one for the front battery box warmer, one for the back
battery box warmer)?  What condition are the tires?  How bad is the rust?  Are
pictures available?

   I am very interested and will use the time between now and your response to
check with the wife.

   Jim
   913.236.9466

S B <sunnybanklad@...> wrote:
           The car is in good condition. It was originally from
Vermont so there is some rust, but nothing major.

The batteries are too weak to be charged and so need
to be replaced.

Because it has a commuter lane sticker, I'm asking 11K
or best offer.

Someone told me a running Force would be worth 15K.

I'm very sad to let this go, but I can't find anyone
to help me fix it and the person who took the charger
and wouldn't even return it when I asked, wanted to do
some experimental charging of the batteries, but feels
no financial responsibility for the car or the now
dead batteries even though he knows the batteries were
fine when he took the charger.

Jana
--- jim donovan <donovan66205@...> wrote:

> I am interested. Can we discuss details - condition
> of car, its operating condition, price, etc.
>
> Jim
> 913.236.9466
>
>
> sunnybanklad <sunnybanklad@...> wrote:
> Hi, I have a 1995 Solectria Force. I am
> the second owner. Last summer,
> the charger blew a fuse. I got someone to look at
> the charger and he
> took it and wouldn't return it until almost half a
> year later. He said
> I didn't have to worry about not charging the
> batteries.
>
> Well, of course, the batteries are not dead.
>
> He said that he has repaired the charger.
>
> I've tried to find other people in the Los Angeles
> area to help me
> repair the car, but haven't been very successful.
>
> So I am thinking of selling the car. I still owe
> money on it from the
> loan, but, of course, even if I get new batteries, I
> don't see how I
> can maintain it. I am also now on partial
> disability.
>
> I am in the San Gabriel Valley (Pasadena).
>
> If anyone is interested, send me an email.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out
> Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

__________________________________________________________
Need a vacation? Get great deals
to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.
http://travel.yahoo.com/





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Continued testing.  I swapped the controllers around.  The suspected
bad one does not work on either motor and the probably good one does.

I have a bad controller.

The good controller, now labelled 'A' has no identification on it,
except "Solectria".   The suspected bad one, identifiable by the white
corrosion all it, says AMC325.

Any recommendations on how I should procede?
Fix or replace?
If replace, what brand and model?

Gods!! do that actually cost $6000.  Can you even buy them any more?

I found another possibility that perhaps the female 9-pin connector is
corroded.  I will try cleaning that up.
Thanks
Stephen



________________________________________________________________________________\
____
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Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.
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Steve:

So sorry about your controller! The pin idea sounds good if you have and
ohmmeter try disassembling the housing and ohming from the rear of the sub D
connector to the rear of the mating sub D connector. This is a little involved
but will tell you for sure if corrosion is a problem or not. I do not know of a
source for AMC 325s everybody wants one as they work in both the E-10 and the
Force. Azure formerly Solectria doesn't service them anymore according to my
understanding.

Even more good luck,

Art
   -----
   Continued testing. I swapped the controllers around. The suspected
   bad one does not work on either motor and the probably good one does.

   I have a bad controller.

   The good controller, now labelled 'A' has no identification on it,
   except "Solectria". The suspected bad one, identifiable by the white
   corrosion all it, says AMC325.

   Any recommendations on how I should procede?
   Fix or replace?
   If replace, what brand and model?

   Gods!! do that actually cost $6000. Can you even buy them any more?

   I found another possibility that perhaps the female 9-pin connector is
   corroded. I will try cleaning that up.
   Thanks
   Stephen

   __________________________________________________________
   Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's
   Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.
   http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/222




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]