Get a second opinion. Or, go get the pads from
Chevy and do it yourself. <br>Rear pads on a C4 are
cake. <br>Just do one side at a time. <br>Yes it is
worth $170 considering the pads are around $70 from the
dealer. If you choose to have it done, reitterate the
sound and tell them they better be sure that the pads
are "rubbing". How can pads rub if they are designed
to spread apart when driving? If the pads are
rubbing, you would be looking at a caliper rebuild. Man oh
man. Keep me posted. If they can "show" you the
problem in the shop and let you listen to it and it is
really the problem, then it is your call.

Took the vette to a Chevy dealer... for $33 they
told me I needed a $170 rear brake job... that the
pads were after market... and were rubbing.... mmm...
anyway.... to turn the rotors and replace the pads with
CHEVY stuff.... is that really $170 worth of work? ....
can that be done for less anywhere else or is there
something here that is not evident to me? and needs the
attention of a CHEVY guy... er,ah Mr Goodwrench I mean!!!
lol... perhaps its worth it... my guess is NOT!!! but
hey... this sound is annoying and sounds like hell... as
no car should go squeak squeak much less a
vette...... or can I do something to make that go away?......
like remove the pads and ????? any how.... comments
please?.... thanks t.

Hey guys, I uploaded a few more photos and put them in the "C3 Shots" album.
Have fun, save the wave, watch your wallet, loud pipes save lives, hug a tree,
whatever...

Okay.... I will have it up on jack stands this
weekend... putting on a Corsa cat back... so while I am
there..... I will look and perform the test you suggest...
thank you.. this is an anoying issue right now, but I
am afraid to let it go any further. t.

It also could be a wheel bearing. Those are
really easy to change too. Isolate which side and start
changing parts. Start diagnosing by getting it on a hoist
and use a stethascope to check which U-joint or
bearing it is.

Half-shaft U-joint. And make sure they install
the coated ones without zerk fittings. If they
install non-coated u-joints in the aluminum half-shafts,
they will chemically bond. Have fun. You can do it
yourself with basic tools and save some $$$.

the clicking will cease when I press the brake pedal about 30% down......

Yeah I know... its a 96 LT1 automatic....... sorry..... dahhhhhh head I am at
times I guess.. like I think everyone knows.... geez...... ol'timers!!!!! lol

Okay.. so here goes an attempt to locate a
problem.. first by sound and then by trying to isolate the
location by best guess. I first heard a "squeeking" from
the right rear..... then it was intermittent..... now
I here a clicking all the time at street speeds and
above and a squeeking at residential speeds...
especially when I drive beside a wall..... when I put it
into gear (forward or reverse (automatic) it
clanks/clinks/clunks .... when I back up 20 feet (down drive way) it
growls for a brief moment....... then its ok...... and
sometimes when its shifts from low gear to second (I think)
I hear a muted clink/clunk or clank........ so now
that everyone is havin fun with this.... btw... it was
put in the shop and the squeek went away.... until
the lube they threw in oozed out...... lasted about a
week..... think someone is hiding a rear end bearing
something probelm? ... this is a dealership that does not
sell corvettes.. its a toyota dealer.....HELP!!!
Please?

OK Sir, I've started a C3 pics folder. More to come. I'll also post some pics
from the 2000 North County (San Diego) Corvette Club show at Seaport Village.
Save the wave, and watch your wallet...

SOMEBODY POST SOMETHING OR ANYTHING!!! C'MON!

I will take it out again as soon as the weather
clears and pay closer attention when I push in the
clutch. I'll be getting back to you. I'm up in
Bakersfield and we had one nasty dust storm. Its raining now,
so as soon as it clears I'll check it out.
Thanks!!!!!!

Lets get some pictures of some cars for us to see. Make a folder with your year
or add to folder that is your year. C'mon guys, we all have pictures of our cars
in places our families should be.

Is your transmission noisy too? In your best
words, describe the vibration exactly. And if it is
still present when you push in the clutch, even if it
diminishes a little, then it isn't the engine. If it is,
like I said before, it would be RPM related and not
vehicle speed related. It may be the bearings in your
tranny. We will keep looking till we find it!!! Just keep
informing me....<br>Demian

The yoke going into the differential is okay. I
took the car out yesterday. When I pushed in the
clutch, the vibration at the shifter seemed to diminish.
Any thoughts of where I should look? Its kind of hard
to explain, but I noticed while letting out the
clutch in 1st gear that I get an unusual vibration that
I can feel in the clutch pedal. Could this all be
associated with the vibration felt above 45mph? Again, any
ideas? Thanks.....!

Thanks! I will take it out today (SAT) before the
rain hits and check to see if its the engine. Its
noticeable in second gear and up once you reach about 45.
However, it doesn't always do it. One day its very smooth
and the next day it reappears. FRUSTRATING!! I forgot
to mention that when I had the drive shaft
rebalanced, the transmission yoke was worn, so I replace it
along with a new tranny tail bushing and seal. I really
thought that would have solved it, but as you know, no
go. After checking to eliminate the engine I guess I
will move on to the rearend. This is my first Vette,
so I don't know much about it. I'm learning though.
I've been told I have to drop the rearend to change
the differential fluid. Is this true? If so, what
does this entail? Sounds like a bear. Thanks for your
help. pace78

Well, to eliminate the source, drive at the speed
where it occurs the worst, then push in the clutch. If
it is the engine, then the vibration will go away.
And if it were in the engine it would happen at
specific RPM in each gear. <br>What gear does it occur?
<br>If it happens at 45 MPH in 2nd, 3rd or 4th, then you
can start looking from the output shaft rearward. It
may be a pinion bearing. <br>The easiest way to check
this out is to pull the driveshaft. Check the surface
of the trasmission yoke and if it is worn, put the
yoke in the tranny and move it around. <br>Also move
the yoke on the diff around. If either has a
noticable excessive amount of play, service will be
necessary. Or if you feel grinding when you turn the yokes,
there is something not operating properly. <br>Also
check the fluid in the diff. If it has silver residue
or is dark, then it may be the bearing on the
pinion. <br><br>Good luck.

I have a 78 L82, 4-speed that has a vibration
which appears to be in the driveline that comes and
goes. You can really feel it in the shifter. I replaced
the u-joints, and had the driveline rebalanced, but
that didn't help. When it does occurr its around 45mph
and up. I've been told it may be the pinion bearing?
That sounds expensive because I don't have the
expertise to tear into the rearend. Could it be coming from
the front of the engine? Any ideas? I don't want to
continue chasing the problem by spending unnecessary
money. Thanks......

That is why I was saying a bad ground (high
resistance) might be the poor performance problem. If only
some of the grid elements get hot, then there is a
break in the grid somewhere. Here is how to diagnose
it.<br><br>Turn defogger on. Using a test light connected to
ground, probe EACH grid line at each end and at several
spots in between. <br><br>Test light brightness should
change get brighter or dimmer as moved across grid line.
<br><br>If test light is bright all the way across, there is
a bad ground.<br><br>If test light goes out while
testing grid line, there is a break in that grid
line.<br><br>Hey, you don't need a defogger anyways.... I am
getting rid of my choke to run an aluminum L-82 manifold!
So there....

Yes all is fine with the locks.... a million
thanks....... at least the system works 97% (the gears gnashing
with one command only..) The defogger trouble shooting
help has me to this point....... the mirror defogger
get hot..... and the rear hatch defogger gets hot...
at least at the bottom of the strips and at the
connectors on both sides.. there are 4 of those and they are
hot.... this morning (it was raining) after about 7-10
minutes the defogger in the rear hatch started to be
effective...... seems to be a long time to get up to useful
temp..... which maybe why the word tired was used when
describing its operation... it this typical ???? ... since
living in California doesn't present alot of reason to
use it - or worry about it - then it maybe a useless
excercise to better the performance... terry.

Glad I could help you. If I can be of any
additional service in the future, let me know... and tell a
Corvette friend. <br><br>This is my first Vette, but in my
years at Chevrolet, I have probibly driven each year
and model 2 or 3 times until I left in 1998. I do
miss it.

Okay .... thank you .. this discussion has help
me find what the lock issue maybe. There is a noise
that sounds as if gears are not meshing properly when
trying to lock the drivers door with the power lock on
the passenger side. Otherwise the security sustem
seems to be operating ok... passive remote - leaving
and returning, active remote and by locking the car
using the power lock system on the drivers
side.<br>Though this may not be the last message we share I got
alot checked out by your lead. Now this sound........
?????<br>I will take the instructions you left today on the
defogger and check it out tonight. When I picked up this
car several weeks ago I had a Corvette tech check it
out - seems that may he was not real familiar with
the PKE considering that he could not conclude what
was wrong. And since this is my first Vette I thought
it would be wise to have someone look at it! Geez I
hope he knows more about Vettes than what this note
seems to say. Finally a Corvette!!!!!! Yippeeeee
(sorry- I will contain myself- foolish old man!! lol) I
have had the pleasure of owning quite a number of
sports cars and muscle cars - 2 Porsches, 2 Nissan Z
cars, 2 MGBs, a Austin Healey, 2 Olds-442s, a Sunbeam
Tiger, a Mitsubishi 3000 and a 55 -283 Chevy among the
list of vehicles. A good friend (when I lived in VA)
was a car dealer- he took me to auctions. My whole
purpose there was to drive back the FUN machines (yes he
loaded the "regular" cars on a truck)..... so my
familiarity with Corvettes goes back quite a long way. I had
been roadracing motorcycles up until 98 when my
daughter began college - I recently paid her last tuition
fees.... With no child at home and divorced I figured it
was time to get back in the FUN saddle again. You and
your club have been a tremendous help locating these
annoying problems. Thanks, Terry.

Here we go. This is just basic stuff for checking
the defogger for now.<br><br>Start the engine and
idle. Press the defogger switch and make sure the
indicator comes on. Rear window and mirrors should get
warm. Defogger should turn off in 15 minutes. Turn
defogger on again. Defogger should turn off in about 5
minutes. Turn defogger on a 3rd time. Defogger should stay
on until switch is pressed again.<br><br>For the
defogger, check the defogger relay connections located on
the right side of the steering column. <br><br>Behind
the drivers door in the "B" pillar (between the rear
wheelwell and door jamb behind the trim panel), is the
ground for the rear window defogger. Check that this
ground is tight. Rear defogger relay is powered by the
A/C clutch fuse on the dash fuse block and the RR
defog fuse in the underhood fuse block. Check the
connections at the hatch struts for poor terminal contact.
<br><br><br>Heated mirrors have a fuse located in the fuse block on
the dash. Also, behind the kick panel on the driver's
side (by your feet) check the ground connection bolted
to the body. This is the ground for the mirrors.

Thanks for the direction... I will check the
points you spoke of this evening when I get
home.<br><br>Does your passive (shake the transmitter to open
doors) function still work except on left door? no I do
not think so..... I will check this closely tonight
also.<br><br>Does the driver's door lock when the alarm turns on?
Ya know I am not sure ....... since I lock it as I
exit the car. I will check that too.<br><br>Let me
know.<br><br>As far as the rear defogger, do you have auto A/C
and heated mirrors or not? Yes, Auto A/c and heated
mirrors... and I am not sure the mirrors are functioning
either since I park it in the garage........ mmmm. Hi oh
Hi oh its off to check I go. I will tell you in the
morning........ geez there maybe a a couple of "modules" out huh?
darn....... once again many thanks for this help........... I
will follow your lead.... Terry.

Okay, I would have to say the RKE module is bad.
All power door lock functions go through the RKE
module. <br><br>There are no seperate wires for left door
lock/unlock features for RKE functions as opposed to regular
power door locks. <br><br>There is a Tan wire on the
RKE module 8-terminal connector that connects to the
left power door lock motor and the central control
module. This is the LOCK output function to actually
unlock the door. The central control module is only
recieving the input and does not control any functions. Try
giving the RKE module a slap test (Smak it) while trying
to unlock the doors. My guess is that the internal
switch to unlock the left door is stuck or burned
out.<br><br>The RKE module is located under the chime/alarm
module behind the driver's information center in the
center of the instrument panel. The top dash pad will
need to be removed to access this. <br><br>Does your
passive (shake the transmitter to open doors) function
still work except on left door?<br><br>Does the
driver's door lock when the alarm turns on?<br><br>Let me
know.<br><br>As far as the rear defogger, do you have auto A/C
and heated mirrors or not?

Your question is kind of hard to
understand.<br><br>Thanks for the response. Sorry about the
explaination.... let me see if I can help you help me..... once
again thanks.<br> <br>1. Which door does not
work?<br><br>Drivers side with remote does not work. With remote the
passenger side works as does the hatchback.<br><br>2. Which
functions work?<br>Sitting in the car all lock/unlock
functions on both doors and hatch work either manually or
with the electrical push to lock switch- this is to
say by sliding the lock by hand or sliding with the
electrical push to lock (for the doors) or pushing the
button for the hatch the manual operation of the system
seems to be fully functional.<br><br>3. When does the
door not work?<br>When I use the remote for the doors
the passenger side door unlocks - period -the drivers
side does not unlock. When I use the remote to open
the hatch it works.<br>Now this is the part that
maybe confusing but maybe where the "key" to the
problem may lie. When sitting in the car and not using
the remote..... I can lock/unlock both doors with the
push to lock/unlock switch from either side of the
car- passenger or drivers and it operates correctly.
But as I said when the remote is used only the
passenger side unlocks. (The manual slides do work to
lock/unlock either door) <br>What is puzzling is I can
manually push the push to lock/unlock switch on the
passengers side in the car and the drivers side
locks/unlocks. Seems odd to me in light of the remote failure.
Maybe not... it might well just be me!!! lol<br><br>
<br>Tell me more and I can diagnose it for you and help
you fix it. I will check the board tomorrow morning
for your problems..<br><br>Thanks once again..... as
this and a "tired" -slow to work?- rear defrosted is
the only problems I have at the momment. Which is
pretty good I think..... Terry<br>p.s. Clear as mud now?
...lol

Your question is kind of hard tio understand.
<br>1. Which door does not work?<br>2. Which functions
work?<br>3. When does the door not work?<br>Tell me more and
I can diagnose it for you and help you fix it. I
will check the board tomorrow morning for your
problems.. <br><br>FYI...I am a Chevrolet Tech that
specializes in Corvettes.<br><br>To me it sounds like the
power door lock motor is bad. We will see...

Hi..... my 96 LT1 Coupe keyless remote is not
working properly.... from the outside with the remote I
can open the hatch and the passenger door only.....
but inside, electrically, the passenger side lock
slide operates both doors as does the driver side,
electrical lock slide and operates from lock to unlock and
back - I am not refering to the one that manually
locks but he ones that electrically close each/both
door lock... the manual slide to lock does work on
both doors. HELP!!!!!!!! thank you, terry

Please feel free to ask any questions or post any
concerns or information about your corvettes. As one
member has done, you may create and add pictures to a
photo gallery on this site. Please use it as I would
love to se everyones car or parts (Michael).

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