Try using RC model airplane fuel. I've used it on carbs and it works
great at getting off the varnish.


In a message dated 7/2/2009 10:05:43 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
suziryder1000@... writes:





Another way to "help" the chemicals do their job is to apply heat. A heat
gun works wonders. Helps to soften the sludge and deposits. Perhaps you have
a local auto parts store that has Beerryman's in the gallon pail. It's a
carburetor dip solution. My only concern with anything that strong would be
crank seal damage. Honestly at this point in time, The crank seals are
probably toast anyway. If you slpit the cases, you can service the crank and
inspect all the components. Along with replacing the seals. Cheap insurance
given the pistons fot them are becoming rather hard to come by.

Glad to hear yet another classic will be among the living.

Stephen

________________________________
From: hal kolding <_bethalk@..._ (mailto:bethalk@...) >
To: _rokon@..._ (mailto:rokon@yahoogroups.com)
Sent: Thursday, July 2, 2009 5:34:44 PM
Subject: [rokon] Another CT rokon

Hello, I am in CT, and am a long time Trailbreaker rider. I finally bought
a nice low miles RT340. Unfortunately, it sat with fuel in the tank, which
dripped down into the engine. The cylinder is in excellent shape, piston
too, but there is dried brown goo on the flywheels, and the crank does not
move. Dried out fuel residue binding it up? I have the sump filled with WD40
now. I am thinking something stronger. I know that I should take the crank
out to truly clean it the right way..... About all I need besides that is
a rear fender, mine got shortened some time in its life. Hal in CT

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