hey, just wondering what oil to use and where to get it to rebuild a pair of
"wet" struts out of the ke30 (to go on the ke55, replacing bent units with
cartridge inserts).

I've been told straight 30w engine oil, or possibly atf (I think thats a
straight 10w?) but I'm not quite sold on either of those ideas yet, as they
decrease viscosity relatively quickly when they warm up, and I was under the
impression that I want something that remains a constant viscosity for as long
as possible.

the car in question does a lot of khanacross and motorkhana work on gravel,
hence how the strut came to be bent... understeer with a lot of steering angle,
I'm fairly sure it was wet at the time, and she hit an unexpected rather nasty
rut.... now I have positive 1 degree camber and about 20 minutes castor on that
side :( neg camber on the other side with about two minutes castor, much more
appropriate!

I really want to get the suspension sorted in the next two weeks in any case, as
I've got a set of slicks lined up ready for the hillclimb and supersprint coming
up, and correct suspension angles would be brilliant!

Robert.

From memory I put some pics up (and a write up) of the 4KE setup and a 7KE
setup on the Rollaclub FAQ

Argh, took some searching but I managed to find it...

http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/EFI

Still have a scanned copy of the 7KE manual somewhere.

I would love to stick a Supercharged 7KE into a KE70 one day, just for shits
& giggles.

Cheers

Nick


On 11/21/09, oldcorollas <oldcorollas@...> wrote:
>
> interesting :)
> they looked good from a runner shape side of things, but the long tapered
> ones like Malcolm had seem like a better idea for tuning.
>
> I was thiking to try and catalogue all the different manifolds i have
> seen.. but haven't gotten around to it yet :)
>
> >
> > But I have some of those Sanyo manifolds make linkages so much easier
> > and the casting I feel is much better but getting it to bolt to the
> > cyclinder head is a bit hard as they angle up so so so much. I bought my
> > twins from Japan were a set of Side draft solex off a 4K all tunned :)
> >
> > Cameron
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

interesting :)
they looked good from a runner shape side of things, but the long tapered ones
like Malcolm had seem like a better idea for tuning.

I was thiking to try and catalogue all the different manifolds i have seen.. but
haven't gotten around to it yet :)

>
> But I have some of those Sanyo manifolds make linkages so much easier
> and the casting I feel is much better but getting it to bolt to the
> cyclinder head is a bit hard as they angle up so so so much. I bought my
> twins from Japan were a set of Side draft solex off a 4K all tunned :)
>
> Cameron
>

upright gear from TRD would be nice. But the twisted bell housing also
gold. As there are part numbers for a gear box mount that is twisted and
they used the close ratio gear set in a K motor so not many would of
been made twisted.

But I have some of those Sanyo manifolds make linkages so much easier
and the casting I feel is much better but getting it to bolt to the
cyclinder head is a bit hard as they angle up so so so much. I bought my
twins from Japan were a set of Side draft solex off a 4K all tunned :)

Cameron

Hi,
    Yeah I have been watching Justins build etc and talking to him about
it will be a mad 5K.

I had 7K EFI setup once sold it due to getting twin side drafts
also..LOL There much better on a classic motor.

Cameron

nice :)
have seen some uprighting gear on yahoo, but the mounts are not hard to make.
the twisted BH would be worth gold tho.

anyone know what gearbox code the 7KE townace runs? looks vaguely W like, and
has normal shifter...
I already have a K to W BH tho..

oh, there are often nice twin carb manifolds on yahoo.. the Sanyo ones look
fairly good!

--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, Nick Bajic <grimwolge@...> wrote:
>
> I gave the setup to my brother. He will use it eventually...
>
> He also has managed to source a K motor upright kit.
>
> From memory he is going to use my old 5K block, and is uprighting it :)
>
> With a pair of Dellorto DHLA40's
>
> :)
>
> Should be quite the head turner!
>
>
> On 11/21/09, Cameron <cameron@...> wrote:
> >
> > I use import  monster a bit. Yes costly to get in but I have scored some
> > TRD K motor parts and more so so so cheap so jsut have to know your
> > limit values etc.
> >
> > But trade me I do watch a bit few surprises on there show up.
> >
> > Also Nick B wanna sell the EFI gear now u own a  subi??LOL
> >
> > Cheers
> > Cameron
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I gave the setup to my brother. He will use it eventually...

He also has managed to source a K motor upright kit.

From memory he is going to use my old 5K block, and is uprighting it :)

With a pair of Dellorto DHLA40's

:)

Should be quite the head turner!


On 11/21/09, Cameron <cameron@...> wrote:
>
> I use import  monster a bit. Yes costly to get in but I have scored some
> TRD K motor parts and more so so so cheap so jsut have to know your
> limit values etc.
>
> But trade me I do watch a bit few surprises on there show up.
>
> Also Nick B wanna sell the EFI gear now u own a  subi??LOL
>
> Cheers
> Cameron
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I use import  monster a bit. Yes costly to get in but I have scored some
TRD K motor parts and more so so so cheap so jsut have to know your
limit values etc.

But trade me I do watch a bit few surprises on there show up.

Also Nick B wanna sell the EFI gear now u own a  subi??LOL

Cheers
Cameron

I've got a 4KE setup that I found on Trademe about 7 years ago

Cost about $200 landed. Worthwhile keeping an eye on the NZ auctions.

-Nick


On 11/21/09, oldcorollas <oldcorollas@...> wrote:
>
> Thats only delivered locally in Japan ;)
> To send to Aus will prolly double or triple the cost :( depending on the
> weight.... oh well...
>
> The last 4KE gear I had, I hand carried from the US....
>
> --- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, Cameron <cameron@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >    Yes wiring and all was the one I saw :) Listed for $122 first no
> > takers then sold to you for $60. Nice to get it all delivered for $100
> > Not bad really.
> >
> > Cameron
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thats only delivered locally in Japan ;)
To send to Aus will prolly double or triple the cost :( depending on the
weight.... oh well...

The last 4KE gear I had, I hand carried from the US....

--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, Cameron <cameron@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>    Yes wiring and all was the one I saw :) Listed for $122 first no
> takers then sold to you for $60. Nice to get it all delivered for $100
> Not bad really.
>
> Cameron
>

Hi,
    Yes wiring and all was the one I saw :) Listed for $122 first no
takers then sold to you for $60. Nice to get it all delivered for $100
Not bad really.

Cameron

finally.. have been looking for this one for a while.. goes well with the
Nichimo ones..
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/oldcorollas/sprinter-model.jpg

--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, Nick Bajic <grimwolge@...> wrote:
> Monster inlet port eh?
> :)


the 4KE are a bit smaller than the 30mm bigports.. more round than oval. the 7KE
is perfect fit for the bigport head.


> Would be interesting for an EFI fuel economy tuning project I reckon.
> With a semi-decent ECU and some tuning, I reckon you could pull some
> fantastic fuel economy out of a 4KE.

with a Megasquirt and laptop.. yes you can ;) even with big cams...


>This wasn't the setup listed on Yahoo then no one bid and re listed at
>$60?? I was watching that one .......

with the wiring etc? it got relisted? I only saw it last week =)
$60? it was closer to $100 delivered :( oh well.

This wasn't the setup listed on Yahoo then no one bid and re listed at
$60?? I was watching that one .......

Monster inlet port eh?

:)

Would be interesting for an EFI fuel economy tuning project I reckon.

With a semi-decent ECU and some tuning, I reckon you could pull some
fantastic fuel economy out of a 4KE.

Nick


On 11/19/09, oldcorollas <oldcorollas@...> wrote:
>
> well, i couldn't help myself...
> picked up another 4KE setup, has ECU, AFM etc, but may be missing rocker
> cover..
> might make a good conversion for a stock motor :)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

well, i couldn't help myself...
picked up another 4KE setup, has ECU, AFM etc, but may be missing rocker cover..
might make a good conversion for a stock motor :)

Camshaft has FINALLY arrived, timing cover repair will be complete on sunday. I
have yet to wrap the extractors, open the flanges out on the extractors,
possibly smooth the ports slightly (not too much) and assemble the engine! If
the cam had have got here last week I could be taking the dyna to go pick up the
new ke30 corolla, but unfortunately it arrived too late for me to assemble the
engine in time.


Robert

--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, "rob83ke70" <rob83ke70@...> wrote:
>
> Progress so far:
>
> have ordered a set of 3mm shank carbide burrs to suit my pencil grinder for
cleaning ports up, thinking that I had no stones left... found some stones,
spent an hour or two playing with the ports and now the grinder has died!!
>
> I have opened the inlet ports out to a squeak below the size of the gasket,
and also opened the extractor flange out a bit as well... I've smoothed off the
radius/edge below the carburettor mounting flange on the inlet manifold as well.
>
> I have filed the extractors to make them fit (I knew I should have got the
pacemakers, *apparently* they fit perfectly) and got a flange welded on to the
outlet.
>
> Camshaft should be back this week, tighe cams are expensive and rather slow, I
hope that this grind is good!!! Next time I might ring a few more places and
work out something cheaper!!
>
> cylinder head is nearly right to go on, pistons, rings, and rod bearings are
installed. I have removed the front part of the exhaust pipe that fouls the
extractors, all set for the new pipe. The engine has been pressure washed, and
is now free from mud/oil grime totally!
>
> At this stage I'm going to put it together with the model L converter (which
I've bought from ebay nice and cheap) and the 125 carburettor, I'm getting to be
desperate to have it running which isn't good...
>
> Robert.
>

the repair has been and gone, the other workshop did it, I thought it was over
until it got brought up again on friday when I got an arse chewing...

I told the boss today that it was a free-running engine, he said that he's
pretty sure thats the case too, apparently this other workshop did the water
pump and heaps of other goodies too while it was apart at our expense... and
apparently they wouldn't just put a belt on and see if it was all ok, they
insisted the head had to come off and all that stuff....

I'm failing to see how all that money was my fault? and I'm failing to see how
or why it should be brought up again?

I'm wondering if they want me there anymore?

Robert.



--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, "rob83ke70" <rob83ke70@...> wrote:
>
> I've done bazillions of timing belts without any dramas without torquing idler
bolts exactly.... from now on, torque wrench only!
>
> I think the boss was in a mood to be getting up me anyway regardless on
friday, some of the things I was in trouble for I was never told to begin with,
but I now know. There were a few mistakes that I can think of that were my fault
as well, and I'm happy to accept that. This timing belt catastrophe is bothering
me a lot though.
>
> I'm still in the thinking stage. Both myself and the apprentice (the boss's
son) were told to "go home and think about whether you want to be here or not,
if you don't then thats ok, I've been self-employed before and can be
self-employed again" on friday afternoon.
>
> So, I've gone home and I'm having a think. A good hard think.
>
> for the record, I like working on cars (as opposed to 4wd's or trucks) and I
like the retail side of it (as opposed to working as a mechanic for the mines or
something). and I like doing the job properly too!! I also have a thing for
working on european cars.... not owning them, I'm a toyota man there, but
working on european cars is good! there is a few i'd own if I had the money
though come to think of it.... but I always like old toyotas...
>
> Robert.
>
>
>
> --- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, john slee <indigoid@> wrote:
> >
> > 2009/11/14 oldcorollas <oldcorollas@>
> > > yes, you should.
> > >
> > > if your boss is not smart enough to realise:
> >
> > Maybe it's a sign that you (Robert, that is) should go work for
> > Toyota instead of these third-rate dodgy shops :-)
> >
> > I've always been impressed with the ACT dealer service depts.
> > Especially with my GT4 they seemed very careful and also very
> > communicative.  When they did the timing belt change they had
> > no hesitation at all to phone me up and say they weren't going
> > to be able to finish the job in one day --- a sign, I think, that they
> > were doing the job properly and not rushing it.
> >
> > --
> > P-plate adventurer -- http://indigoid.org/
> >
>

I've done bazillions of timing belts without any dramas without torquing idler
bolts exactly.... from now on, torque wrench only!

I think the boss was in a mood to be getting up me anyway regardless on friday,
some of the things I was in trouble for I was never told to begin with, but I
now know. There were a few mistakes that I can think of that were my fault as
well, and I'm happy to accept that. This timing belt catastrophe is bothering me
a lot though.

I'm still in the thinking stage. Both myself and the apprentice (the boss's son)
were told to "go home and think about whether you want to be here or not, if you
don't then thats ok, I've been self-employed before and can be self-employed
again" on friday afternoon.

So, I've gone home and I'm having a think. A good hard think.

for the record, I like working on cars (as opposed to 4wd's or trucks) and I
like the retail side of it (as opposed to working as a mechanic for the mines or
something). and I like doing the job properly too!! I also have a thing for
working on european cars.... not owning them, I'm a toyota man there, but
working on european cars is good! there is a few i'd own if I had the money
though come to think of it.... but I always like old toyotas...

Robert.



--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, john slee <indigoid@...> wrote:
>
> 2009/11/14 oldcorollas <oldcorollas@...>
> > yes, you should.
> >
> > if your boss is not smart enough to realise:
>
> Maybe it's a sign that you (Robert, that is) should go work for
> Toyota instead of these third-rate dodgy shops :-)
>
> I've always been impressed with the ACT dealer service depts.
> Especially with my GT4 they seemed very careful and also very
> communicative.  When they did the timing belt change they had
> no hesitation at all to phone me up and say they weren't going
> to be able to finish the job in one day --- a sign, I think, that they
> were doing the job properly and not rushing it.
>
> --
> P-plate adventurer -- http://indigoid.org/
>

2009/11/14 oldcorollas <oldcorollas@...>
> yes, you should.
>
> if your boss is not smart enough to realise:

Maybe it's a sign that you (Robert, that is) should go work for
Toyota instead of these third-rate dodgy shops :-)

I've always been impressed with the ACT dealer service depts.
Especially with my GT4 they seemed very careful and also very
communicative.  When they did the timing belt change they had
no hesitation at all to phone me up and say they weren't going
to be able to finish the job in one day --- a sign, I think, that they
were doing the job properly and not rushing it.

--
P-plate adventurer -- http://indigoid.org/

yes, you should.

if your boss is not smart enough to realise:
>*APPARENTLY* this workshop did a compression test on the engine and found
valves bent/not sealing then dismantled the head and repaired everything<
couldn't happen (as you said), then maybe it is time to find a new boss? but
state it in plain terms, ie, this was supposed to have failed.. so then cams
wouldn't turn, so they couldn't do compression test etc... see what they say

In future, torque bolts up to spec at all times on customer cars?



--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, "rob83ke70" <rob83ke70@...> wrote:
>
> http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id=3002
>
> gates say that both the 5s-fe and the 3s-fe are NOT interferance engines....
>
> maybe time to check this with toyota, and then maybe I should ask the boss
what on earth is going on???
>
> Robert.
>

http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id=3002

gates say that both the 5s-fe and the 3s-fe are NOT interferance engines....

maybe time to check this with toyota, and then maybe I should ask the boss what
on earth is going on???

Robert.



--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, "rob83ke70" <rob83ke70@...> wrote:
>
> Boyce's Autodata and Repco Autotech both seem to think that it is an
interferance engine and that valve damage would result, however they seem to say
that for *everything* and I'm not quite sure if it is the truth or not.
*APPARENTLY* this workshop did a compression test on the engine and found valves
bent/not sealing then dismantled the head and repaired everything.... they can't
have done a compression test without fixing the timing belt first!!! and if they
did a leakdown test then the cams/piston may have been in the wrong spot and the
valves might not have been sealing for some other reason...
>
> why can't people send photos? as far as I know the boss doesn't have any
photos, he just paid the repair costs, and is now shitty with me!! I've done
bazillions of 5sfe and 3sfe belts now and never had a problem before!! and I'm
sure this one was the third belt it had had on it (including original fitment
factory belt) so thats probably been done up and undone quite a few times.....
old cars, you expect these things....
>
> this is really really bothering me!
>
> Robert.
>
>
>
> --- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, john slee <indigoid@> wrote:
> >
> > 2009/11/14 rob83ke70 <rob83ke70@>
> > > idler pulley or tensioner bolts breaking on the timing belt of a toyota s
series engine?
> >
> > I didn't know they were interference engines.  IIRC the 3S-G family aren't.
> >
> > And I'd be quite surprised if they were, TTTT.  There's a LOT of Camrys out
> > there and Toyota don't want their engines destroying themselves, even if it
> > is the owner's fault for not having the belt changed soon enough.
> >
> > John
> >
> > --
> > P-plate adventurer -- http://indigoid.org/
> >
>

Boyce's Autodata and Repco Autotech both seem to think that it is an
interferance engine and that valve damage would result, however they seem to say
that for *everything* and I'm not quite sure if it is the truth or not.
*APPARENTLY* this workshop did a compression test on the engine and found valves
bent/not sealing then dismantled the head and repaired everything.... they can't
have done a compression test without fixing the timing belt first!!! and if they
did a leakdown test then the cams/piston may have been in the wrong spot and the
valves might not have been sealing for some other reason...

why can't people send photos? as far as I know the boss doesn't have any photos,
he just paid the repair costs, and is now shitty with me!! I've done bazillions
of 5sfe and 3sfe belts now and never had a problem before!! and I'm sure this
one was the third belt it had had on it (including original fitment factory
belt) so thats probably been done up and undone quite a few times..... old cars,
you expect these things....

this is really really bothering me!

Robert.



--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, john slee <indigoid@...> wrote:
>
> 2009/11/14 rob83ke70 <rob83ke70@...>
> > idler pulley or tensioner bolts breaking on the timing belt of a toyota s
series engine?
>
> I didn't know they were interference engines.  IIRC the 3S-G family aren't.
>
> And I'd be quite surprised if they were, TTTT.  There's a LOT of Camrys out
> there and Toyota don't want their engines destroying themselves, even if it
> is the owner's fault for not having the belt changed soon enough.
>
> John
>
> --
> P-plate adventurer -- http://indigoid.org/
>

2009/11/14 rob83ke70 <rob83ke70@...>
> idler pulley or tensioner bolts breaking on the timing belt of a toyota s
series engine?

I didn't know they were interference engines.  IIRC the 3S-G family aren't.

And I'd be quite surprised if they were, TTTT.  There's a LOT of Camrys out
there and Toyota don't want their engines destroying themselves, even if it
is the owner's fault for not having the belt changed soon enough.

John

--
P-plate adventurer -- http://indigoid.org/

Just wondering if anybody has ever had any problems with idler pulley or
tensioner bolts breaking on the timing belt of a toyota s series engine? I
replaced a timing belt on either a 3s-fe or a 5s-fe, and the idler/tensioners
were noisy so I replaced those as well. less than 10,000km/6months later the
bolt for one of them has broken, apparently from over-tensioning. I'm sure I
didn't over-tension the bolts and I'm sure they felt quite ok when I did them
up. Somebody else has done the repairs, apparently there was considerable damage
to the valves when the whole lot came unstuck sad.gif

Just wondering if anybody has seem this before, I know there are a lot of people
on here with toyota experience.

I *think* it may have been the second time the belt had been replaced, I can't
quite even remember the exact car!! I've done plenty of camry timing belts with
that engine and this is a first for me!! It is bothering me a LOT because
obviously I don't want engines to blow up!!

Robert.

Ring Peter Robinson Automotive +61 (3) 9544 1162, he's not always that fast, not
always that cheap, and parts aren't always *perfect* but he'll probably be able
to fix you up with something.

Robert.

--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, "oldcorollas" <oldcorollas@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Philip,
> Rad shop can't make you one up? you just need the top and bottom tanks?
>
> strut tops, never heard of any available.. can adapt KE20 ones? convert to
pillowball?
> Door strikers, i am sure someone has some out there...
> good luck
>
> --- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, Philip Bryant <levinte27@> wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Guys
> > I am in need of some parts for my KE18.
> > Radiator any condition but good prefered.
> > Stut tops
> > Door strikers
>

Hi Philip,
Rad shop can't make you one up? you just need the top and bottom tanks?

strut tops, never heard of any available.. can adapt KE20 ones? convert to
pillowball?
Door strikers, i am sure someone has some out there...
good luck

--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, Philip Bryant <levinte27@...> wrote:

>
> Hi Guys
> I am in need of some parts for my KE18.
> Radiator any condition but good prefered.
> Stut tops
> Door strikers

Progress so far:

have ordered a set of 3mm shank carbide burrs to suit my pencil grinder for
cleaning ports up, thinking that I had no stones left... found some stones,
spent an hour or two playing with the ports and now the grinder has died!!

I have opened the inlet ports out to a squeak below the size of the gasket, and
also opened the extractor flange out a bit as well... I've smoothed off the
radius/edge below the carburettor mounting flange on the inlet manifold as well.

I have filed the extractors to make them fit (I knew I should have got the
pacemakers, *apparently* they fit perfectly) and got a flange welded on to the
outlet.

Camshaft should be back this week, tighe cams are expensive and rather slow, I
hope that this grind is good!!! Next time I might ring a few more places and
work out something cheaper!!

cylinder head is nearly right to go on, pistons, rings, and rod bearings are
installed. I have removed the front part of the exhaust pipe that fouls the
extractors, all set for the new pipe. The engine has been pressure washed, and
is now free from mud/oil grime totally!

At this stage I'm going to put it together with the model L converter (which
I've bought from ebay nice and cheap) and the 125 carburettor, I'm getting to be
desperate to have it running which isn't good...

Robert.

Hi Guys



I am in need of some parts for my KE18.



Radiator any condition but good prefered.

Stut tops

Door strikers



Any help in finding these parts appreciated.



Philip

_________________________________________________________________
Want to know what your boss is paid? Check out The Great Australian Pay Check
now
http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157639755/direct/01/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>
>
http://www.autoanything.com/GenericPages/ProductImage.aspx?GroupID=undefined&Ima\
geID=6795&ProductID=2517
>
> What do you think of one of those mufflers? or something very similar? I keep
finding interesting things on ebay in the USA and they don't ship to
australia.... I suppose there would be something similar over here somewhere...


That is the sort of muffler you were talking about earlier jmac? I'm thinking it
looks like what I'm after, just hopefully I can get the equivalent in aus
without paying too much money for it.

I'm planning on buying a pipe bender and making a 2.25" exhaust, I figure I 
will probably use it again to make other exhaust bits and this is the world's
easiest exhaust pipe to make, theres about 4 bends in it and all the room in the
world!

So far, I have pistons installed with minimal scuffing/dramas on bores. I'm not
100% happy with how it all went together, but its a million times better than it
was. If I end up building more engines I might need to buy a different style of
ring compressor, I have a conventional looking tube that tightens up with a
ratcheting mechanism, the last engine I built I used this kit (borrowed from a
former workmate) that had nearly complete circle tubes and pliers to squeeze
them to compress the rings... much much nicer!!

I carefully assembled the pistons/rings/bearings, I had to compress the rings
one at a time with multiple people using screwdrivers carefully and press the
pistons down into the bore. The cross hatching is a little coarser than I really
would have liked as well, but its acceptable. I had a drama with the ring
compressor on the first attempt and ended up with a bent oil ring and a series
of small marks down the bore, which I've honed out a little more but are still
there :( luckily they are horizontal scratches (very small) in a vertical line
if that makes sense, not vertical scores! I re-used a slightly second hand oil
ring (the thin scraper part) instead of the bent ring. I think I'm as happy as
I'm going to be.

In hindsight I should have pulled the engine out of the vehicle, and I should
have probably done the job at work.

I need to carefully match ports/manifolds tomorrow, the ports/manifolds don't
line up quite right on a few of them, and the plan is to make sure the inlet
ports are a squeak bigger than the manifold, and the exhaust extractors are a
squeak bigger than the exhaust ports. I've filed the flanges on the new
extractors and they fit reasonably, I need to get a flange welded on the end of
the extractors and then wrap them as well tomorrow.

As soon as I'm happy with the ports then the cylinder head can go on. This is
the wonderful thing about the timing cover, camshaft, and all that fun stuff
being totally separate from the head, I can install the cam and lifters and all
that stuff after the head is on. My timing cover is still sitting in bathurst, I
haven't had a chance to drill and tap the two holes in the part I repaired yet.

Any opinions on whether to use silicone or the cork sump gasket? It was
originally sealed with silicone only. Not a *huge* drama to remove and replace
should it leak, I've had bad experiences with oil leaks re-occuring with cork
gaskets (holden 202, morris 1100) which make me reluctant to go that way.

I can't believe how much dirt and grime I've washed off EVERYTHING, I reckon
that would have to make some sort of a difference to temperatures and how it
runs and all that stuff.

That reminds me, I still have to work out what I'm doing with the distributor
advance curve... I'd love to dismantle and play with it, not something I get to
do everyday.

Robert.