basically, yes.

KE20 had AKEBONO brakes, similar to the KE10.
both had 200x10mm discs.
both had AKEBONO calipers BUT, the KE10 pistons are SMALLER than the KE20
caliper pistons.

the KE20 caliper pistons are same size as the KE30/55 ones.

the KE30 had 218x10mm discs, but i believe KE55 and KE70 had 218x12.5mm discs.

both the 218mm discs give almost 10% more braking for same pedal, but the
thicker discs have 25% more thickness = more mass = slightly longer time before
brake fade from heat.

is it noticeable? on the street i think yes. on a track? both are inadequate :)

there are also PBR calipers for KE10 to KE70 on Aussie delivered models, as we
as something starting with G on the KE30/5 (and 70?) i forget what tho ;) they
had the more square pads.

the KE70 brakes i have on the 15 were a bolt on from a "south east asia"
delivered KE70, which means they had long thin pads (similar to KE10/20) and the
backing plate had the "square" rectangular pattern that bolts on.

KE10 rear drums are not self adjusting, and their adjustment makes a large
difference to how well the car stops.

are the KE20 self adjusting? (ie with the handbrake) or not?


--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, Jordan Hilsenbeck <jdhilsenbeck@...> wrote:
>
> I have to get in on this conversation too...
>
> So, if my KE20 already has factory 200mm front disks, and I want an easy
> upgrade, but want to keep the 4x110 pattern, I can just switch to KE30/55
> backing plates, rotors and calipers for a net rotor diameter increase of
> almost 2cm? That's actually great info, but does that really increase the
> overall stopping power that noticably? And are there other design benefits,
> like, is the KE30/55 caliper at the rear of the rotor, or is it still in the
> front like the KE20?
>
>
> Oddly enough, I've noticed that a contributing factor to overall brake fade
> is having old or worn rear brakes. Of course front stoppies do most of the
> work, but if the rear binders aren't biting enough, the fronts end-up doing
> more than their share of the work, which significantly increases heat
> build-up, which then causes the front rotors to not bite as much and thus
> you get that squishy pedal feel. So, whatever upgrades you do to the front,
> it's probably a good idea to service the rears too...fresh fliud, fresh
> pads, etc. And, it may also be a good idea to install some brake ducts for
> the front as this will help dissapate rotor heat faster.
>
> Jordan
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>