for ke70 brakes into ke20..
there are a few different brake variations in the ke70's and will
make a big difference to them fitting or not. brake sizes are
either 200x12, 218x12? or 225x10. aussie spec may vary? earlier
ke70's run a steering arm with 87mm bolt spacing to the front
struts. these have a similar hub design to ke20 with the exception
of the inner bearing is bigger and 4x114.3 stud pattern instead of
4x110. i think you can use a ke30 inner bearing in these hubs?
infact, ke30 218mm brakes are an easier swap i believe. but measure
up before buying anything! the ke70 backing plates have a different
bolt pattern but i have heard of people that have slotted/redrilled
the holes so the ke70 backing plate/caliper mount fits the ke2
strut. then run ke70 disk and caliper. this gives a small but
noticeable improvement over standard.
the later type of ke70 strut is similar to ae85, ae86, te71 or most
70's rwd ta2# celica, carina etc. there are variations to these
struts but the later '80's ones seem to be same. these are
identifiable by an 85mm bolt spacing on the steering arm and the
rotor bolts to the hub from the inside rather than the outside like
earlier corolla.
the hubs will not swap across to the ke20 strut unfortunately, but a
complete strut swap is the usual way of upgrading.. in my opinion
this is the preferred setup as you are able to easily upgrade the
disk due to the mounting threads into the hub rather than the disk.
these type of hub have a longer stub axle too so will gain a little
bit extra track width. the best version being the 9" vented disk
strut from 4age powered ae86. the shortest steering arms for the
ae86 type strut are the power steering version ae85/ae86 at 115mm
eye to eye. The late ke70 wagon have a 130mm length steering arm as
do ta22. the ke20 will have a 110mm length arm so you see there is
a gain in steering arm length, therefor slower steering and less
lock. also all have a larger ball joint hole than the ke2#.
there is one steering arm available that is a perfect match for
these struts into ke2# and thats the jdm or US spec te21, te27 or
te28. but sourcing some is the tricky part. these are 85mm bolt
spacing with 110mm length arm, exactly same length as ke20 with the
smaller ke2# size ball joint. one other geometry that needs
adjusting is camber.. which becomes 1.5' positive once installed.
(this is what i measured on my ke26 running ae85 struts). a pair of
camber plates is required to put back in alignment. oh and a shorter
spring and short stroke shock upgrade for nice ride height.
i've written a guide here for this particular conversion
http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/ke2strutupgrade.htm
hope that helps
as to the rear drums.. ive never tried swapping a 9" drum onto ke2
so would be interested in finding out :)
-mark



--- In oldcorollas@yahoogroups.com, jordan@... wrote:
>
> hey all,
>
> our rally project is coming along, but we've run into a few
> tough spots. one thing we've found is the really cool
> vintage TRD manifold (with built-in overhead linkage) hits
> the distributor cap. if it was in a place where we could
> shave some off of the manifold, we would, but unfortunately
> it's right on the barrel ... not where you want to have thin
> spots. so, I'm searching for a decent manifold or a way to
> modify the ignition system that would move the distributor
> or remove it altogether. if anyone has experienced this, and
> found a proper solution, I'd love to hear what you did.
>
> we are also thinking of swapping-in the brakes from our 1982
> corolla parts car. our chassis is a '72 KE20, and I'm
> wondering if any of you know if '82 corolla brakes , front
> and rear, will bolt on to our '72 corolla chassis?
>
> one last question; we've got our motor almost mounted in the
> car, but we had to remove the factory sway bar because the
> 3tc sump sits lower than the stock 3kc motor. does anyone
> have a suggestion for how to mount the motor so we can use
> the stock sway bar, or maybe where to find an aftermarket
> sway bar that would work?
>
> cheers,
>
> Jordan
>