Adam

   Stick with the stock Champions and quality wires no less that 7mm.

   I have a 95 SOHC MTX with the "hot" cam that was stock that year.  I've got a
K&N filter under the battery tray, ATX throttle body, and a DOHC dual-outlet
muffler.  I swapped in a Mopar Performance PCM and had to start burning 92+
octane fuel due to the timing advance of the new PCM.  Immediately, I started
running hot with either Bosch Platinums or NGK coppers.  I swapped in a 160
degree thermostat with little change - just took a little more time to get too
hot.  I hacked the front license plate holder for more air flow (seriously). 
Then I went back to stock Champions.
   Overheating problem back in control!  Heat is the enemy.  All the slick
marketing gimmicks just add problems.

   With the way I drive, I get 6 - 10K miles out of the Champions, but they're
cheap and it only takes 20 minutes to swap 'em.

Adam Ziniewicz <aziniewicz@...> wrote:
   Can anyone recommend plugs/wires for a 98 sohc automatic from personal
experience?

I was using bosch platinum with basic $30 part store replacement wires for
the last 2 years.

Its basically stock but does have a 55mm tb and dynomax muffler.

Thanks

Adam




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Yahoo! Groups Links













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Throw those platinum jobbies in the garbage. Neon engines are very happy
with stock Champion plugs. They're also super cheap :) I just get the
plain jane wires from the parts store, too, and I've been happy. But
yea, get rid of that platinum junk :)

Chanda

**2005 Mazda 6i Sport Sedan**
"Sushi" / 23,000 miles
~*1996 Plymouth ACR Sedan*~
"Wahoo" / 120,000 miles / #4 in STS-L
~2003 Buell Lightning XB9S Low~
"Tweety" / 5,600 miles

Adam Ziniewicz wrote:
> Can anyone recommend plugs/wires for a 98 sohc automatic from personal
> experience?
>
> I was using bosch platinum with basic $30 part store replacement wires for
> the last 2 years.
>
> Its basically stock but does have a 55mm tb and dynomax muffler.
>
> Thanks
>
> Adam
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

I have the orange '95 sohc neon (pics in folders). first, stay away from bosch
spark plugs... period. Any mechanic will tell you that. secondly, what I use are
either champion or autolite. pretty crappy choice as far as the 'streamline
perfomance' and what everyone else gets, but they last A LOT longer and you're
not going to get even 5 hp out of plugs anyways... even with NGK, it's going to
be the same, and ngk are known to go out quicker than some even though they
state that they last longer than any (as any of them do). As far as plug wires
go, I like to use Crane 8.5mm wires.         Part No.
2554100             Crane Cams 4 CYL./8.5MM/25


   If you need anything else just email me...
   ~Sean


Adam Ziniewicz <aziniewicz@...> wrote:
           Can anyone recommend plugs/wires for a 98 sohc automatic from personal
experience?

I was using bosch platinum with basic $30 part store replacement wires for
the last 2 years.

Its basically stock but does have a 55mm tb and dynomax muffler.

Thanks

Adam



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
  Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Can anyone recommend plugs/wires for a 98 sohc automatic from personal
experience?

I was using bosch platinum with basic $30 part store replacement wires for
the last 2 years.

Its basically stock but does have a 55mm tb and dynomax muffler.

Thanks

Adam




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com, Scott
<stilldreaming_original@...> wrote:
>
> --- enigma <enigma73hot@...> wrote:
>
> > --- In neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com, Scott
> > <stilldreaming_original@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey all,
> > > For the past few months, I've been losing coolant /very/
slowly,
> > and don't know where it's been
> > > going.  I can find no external leaks, a garage put 12# of
pressure
> > on the system for an hour
> > > with no loss.  Someone mentioned to me about the 2.0 having a
> > propensity for micro-cracks in
> > > the head, and that may explain the loss.
> > >
> > > If I'm losing coolant through the head, that may also explain
why
> > my mileage has jumped 5 mpg
> > > in the last 7 months; I thought it was the fuel treatment I
was
> > using, but maybe the head is
> > > getting steam-cleaned.  :P
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any suggestions?
>
> > >Have you tried using engine block sealant?Ive heard that some
> > engine blocks crack.
>
> One thing about losing coolant through the block, wouldn't I have
coolant in my oil?  I suppose
> the block could crack through the water jacket around the
cylinder, but I'd still think coolant
> would end up in the oil.  Maybe not...
>
> ~S~
>You would have coolant in the oil.If your car has an automatic
transmision check to see if there is any water in the oil.
> Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and
for the same reason.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>

--- enigma <enigma73hot@...> wrote:

> --- In neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com, Scott
> <stilldreaming_original@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hey all,
> > For the past few months, I've been losing coolant /very/ slowly,
> and don't know where it's been
> > going.  I can find no external leaks, a garage put 12# of pressure
> on the system for an hour
> > with no loss.  Someone mentioned to me about the 2.0 having a
> propensity for micro-cracks in
> > the head, and that may explain the loss.
> >
> > If I'm losing coolant through the head, that may also explain why
> my mileage has jumped 5 mpg
> > in the last 7 months; I thought it was the fuel treatment I was
> using, but maybe the head is
> > getting steam-cleaned.  :P
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions?

> >Have you tried using engine block sealant?Ive heard that some
> engine blocks crack.

One thing about losing coolant through the block, wouldn't I have coolant in my
oil?  I suppose
the block could crack through the water jacket around the cylinder, but I'd
still think coolant
would end up in the oil.  Maybe not...

~S~

Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and for the same
reason.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

--- In neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com, "GD Jacks" <jacksfamily2004@...>
wrote:
>
> I have white smoke out my tale pipe any ideas?
>
Your burning antifreeze your head gasket might not seal properly.

--- In neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com, Scott
<stilldreaming_original@...> wrote:
>
> Hey all,
> For the past few months, I've been losing coolant /very/ slowly,
and don't know where it's been
> going.  I can find no external leaks, a garage put 12# of pressure
on the system for an hour
> with no loss.  Someone mentioned to me about the 2.0 having a
propensity for micro-cracks in
> the head, and that may explain the loss.
>
> If I'm losing coolant through the head, that may also explain why
my mileage has jumped 5 mpg
> in the last 7 months; I thought it was the fuel treatment I was
using, but maybe the head is
> getting steam-cleaned.  :P
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions?
>
> ~S~
>
> Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and
for the same reason.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>Have you tried using engine block sealant?Ive heard that some
engine blocks crack.

Hey all,
For the past few months, I've been losing coolant /very/ slowly, and don't know
where it's been
going.  I can find no external leaks, a garage put 12# of pressure on the system
for an hour
with no loss.  Someone mentioned to me about the 2.0 having a propensity for
micro-cracks in
the head, and that may explain the loss.

If I'm losing coolant through the head, that may also explain why my mileage has
jumped 5 mpg
in the last 7 months; I thought it was the fuel treatment I was using, but maybe
the head is
getting steam-cleaned.  :P

Does anyone have any suggestions?

~S~

Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and for the same
reason.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Cam bolts, eh?  Anyone wanna trade two brand-new sets of crash bolts for cam
bolts and dogbone
washers?  hehe

FWIW, he's going to do the alignment on Wednesday, so it should be interesting
to see how my
turn-in and tire wear (the main reason for the negative camber) improve. I've
never had that
done on a stock suspension...

Thanks, Tom!

~S~

--- Tom VandenOever <tavandy1@...> wrote:

> I would agree with that.
>
> Slippage is a bitch.
> Yeah you can paint 'em, Lock-tite 'em, all kinds of happy happy.
>
> Cam type camber bolts rule.
>
> Tom V.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott
> > Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2006 10:35 PM
> > To: neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Neon SOHC Power] Update on the camber adjustment
> >
> > Heh, it turns out my alignment guy doesn't want to use the
> > crash bolts, and is going to slot my struts himself.  In his
> > words, "I want as much bolt as possible."  Who am I to argue
> > - he's an alignment master who's second-generation, and been
> > doing it for something like 43 years.  Like I said, who am I
> > to argue?  :)

__________________________________________________
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I would agree with that.

Slippage is a bitch.
Yeah you can paint 'em, Lock-tite 'em, all kinds of happy happy.

Cam type camber bolts rule.

Tom V.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott
> Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2006 10:35 PM
> To: neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Neon SOHC Power] Update on the camber adjustment
>
> Heh, it turns out my alignment guy doesn't want to use the
> crash bolts, and is going to slot my struts himself.  In his
> words, "I want as much bolt as possible."  Who am I to argue
> - he's an alignment master who's second-generation, and been
> doing it for something like 43 years.  Like I said, who am I
> to argue?  :)
>
> ~S~
>
> Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often,
> and for the same reason.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection
> around http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> --------------------~-->
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> http://us.click.yahoo.com/2pRQfA/bOaOAA/yQLSAA/qRtqlB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> ------~->
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Heh, it turns out my alignment guy doesn't want to use the crash bolts, and is
going to slot my
struts himself.  In his words, "I want as much bolt as possible."  Who am I to
argue - he's an
alignment master who's second-generation, and been doing it for something like
43 years.  Like
I said, who am I to argue?  :)

~S~

Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and for the same
reason.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

--- Tom VandenOever <tavandy1@...> wrote:

> Shoot, didn't answer second question...
>
> > This may sound like a stupid question, but I thought only the
> > bottom bolt needed to be replaced.  I bought two sets because
> > I could swear they said one set would do one wheel.
> >
> Depending on who they^ were, two crash bolt's may be necessary to get what
> your after, camber-wise.

"They" were Speed & Power Development.

  Then you would then two sets of two bolts. Depends
> on what your really trying to do.

All I'm really trying to do is get around -1.5deg camber, because that has
served me well on my
G1 Neon; tire wear is perfect and flat across the face of the tire.  The G2's
tires are wearing
pretty badly on the outside, and it doesn't look like toe -- it's the fact that
they are soft
BFG KDWs, and I love my corners...

~S~

Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and for the same
reason.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

--- Tom VandenOever <tavandy1@...> wrote:

> Mopar Part #4014444, dogboner washer, there were 1K or so showing in the
> system last time I checked.
>
> For those running Yellow or slotted Koni's I have found RockAuto has AK37
> front alignment kit w/ cam bolt, Alignment bolt (no knurling), 2 Nuts and a
> dogbone washer. Monroe part number AK37
> http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Monroe/Detail.html?AK37.jpg
>
> At $5.62, well hell, buy two and save the spare parts.

Strange thing is, that P/N isn't under camber/alignment.  They have it listed as
a "shock"
mount kit.

Tell me something, is the cam bolt /really/ needed?  I've been driving on
standard bolts and
slotted Konis for years, and I corner hard every chance I get.  Yet, my camber
adjustment has
never slipped. I have a hard time believing it's just dumb luck...

> Stay away from the magna kits. I've broken that and scared the bejezus outta
> myself.

Duly noted.  :)

> For the rear, stick with Moog K8358, I wouldn't use the smaller bolts for
> anything suspension-wise but at $14 a side for two crash bolts and shims,
> it's a steal compared to the Mopar parts costs.

Jeez, no kidding!

> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C544EG/102-0029289-7597750?v=glance&n=1
> 5684181 (Rock Auto didn't have a pic).
>
> They may not show up in the Parts catalogue for each and every Neon model
> (don't ask me why, I didn't write the software) so use the part search mode
> to add to your cart.

Also duly noted.  I just wish they sold speed parts....

> Tom VandenOever
>
> Need to get back to garage so I can race tomorrow.

I hope you did well.

> P.S.
>
> Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer!
>
> To show our appreciation, we would like to give you and your friends a
> special discount on auto parts.
>
> Here's how it works:
>
> - You give the following discount code to friends, neighbors, relatives, the
> guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks:
>
>   424017205182
>
> - When someone (including yourself) places an order at www.rockauto.com and
> enters your discount code, he or she will receive an immediate 5% discount
> on that order.
>   * If you are using our Java Catalog, enter your discount code in the "How
> did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart
>   * If you are using our non-Java Catalog, enter your the discount code in
> the "Discount Code" field of the Shopping Cart and click "Calculate
> Discount"
> - The discount code expires on July 11, 2006; so don't wait!

Thanks again!

~S~

Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and for the same
reason.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Shoot, didn't answer second question...


>
> This may sound like a stupid question, but I thought only the
> bottom bolt needed to be replaced.  I bought two sets because
> I could swear they said one set would do one wheel.
>
Depending on who they^ were, two crash bolt's may be necessary to get what
your after, camber-wise. Then you would then two sets of two bolts. Depends
on what your really trying to do.

Tom VandenOever

Mopar Part #4014444, dogboner washer, there were 1K or so showing in the
system last time I checked.

For those running Yellow or slotted Koni's I have found RockAuto has AK37
front alignment kit w/ cam bolt, Alignment bolt (no knurling), 2 Nuts and a
dogbone washer. Monroe part number AK37
http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Monroe/Detail.html?AK37.jpg

At $5.62, well hell, buy two and save the spare parts.

Stay away from the magna kits. I've broken that and scared the bejezus outta
myself.

For the rear, stick with Moog K8358, I wouldn't use the smaller bolts for
anything suspension-wise but at $14 a side for two crash bolts and shims,
it's a steal compared to the Mopar parts costs.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C544EG/102-0029289-7597750?v=glance&n=1
5684181 (Rock Auto didn't have a pic).

They may not show up in the Parts catalogue for each and every Neon model
(don't ask me why, I didn't write the software) so use the part search mode
to add to your cart.


Tom VandenOever

Need to get back to garage so I can race tomorrow.

P.S.

Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer!

To show our appreciation, we would like to give you and your friends a
special discount on auto parts.

Here's how it works:

- You give the following discount code to friends, neighbors, relatives, the
guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks:

   424017205182

- When someone (including yourself) places an order at www.rockauto.com and
enters your discount code, he or she will receive an immediate 5% discount
on that order.
   * If you are using our Java Catalog, enter your discount code in the "How
did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart
   * If you are using our non-Java Catalog, enter your the discount code in
the "Discount Code" field of the Shopping Cart and click "Calculate
Discount"
- The discount code expires on July 11, 2006; so don't wait!








> -----Original Message-----
> From: neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 11:59 PM
> To: neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Neon SOHC Power] Considering Parting Out the Highline
>
> --- Tom VandenOever <tavandy1@...> wrote:
>
> > > Anyone know the torque specs on the Mopar crash bolts?  Speed &
> > > Power Development didn't give me that info...
> >
> > 150 ft/lbs is what I've always used for the fronts.
> > 100 ft/lbs is what I use for the rear.
>
> Thanks, Tom!  We can always count on you.  :)
>
> > Use dogbone washers on the fronts and you have less slippage issues.
>
> That makes sense.  Do you have a source for said parts?
>
> This may sound like a stupid question, but I thought only the
> bottom bolt needed to be replaced.  I bought two sets because
> I could swear they said one set would do one wheel.
>
> Thanks!
>
> ~S~
>
> Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often,
> and for the same reason.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection
> around http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> --------------------~-->
> Great things are happening at Yahoo! Groups.  See the new
> email design.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/TISQkA/hOaOAA/yQLSAA/qRtqlB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> ------~->
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

--- Tom VandenOever <tavandy1@...> wrote:

> > Anyone know the torque specs on the Mopar crash bolts?  Speed
> > & Power Development didn't give me that info...
>
> 150 ft/lbs is what I've always used for the fronts.
> 100 ft/lbs is what I use for the rear.

Thanks, Tom!  We can always count on you.  :)

> Use dogbone washers on the fronts and you have less slippage issues.

That makes sense.  Do you have a source for said parts?

This may sound like a stupid question, but I thought only the bottom bolt needed
to be
replaced.  I bought two sets because I could swear they said one set would do
one wheel.

Thanks!

~S~

Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and for the same
reason.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

> Anyone know the torque specs on the Mopar crash bolts?  Speed
> & Power Development didn't give me that info...

150 ft/lbs is what I've always used for the fronts.
100 ft/lbs is what I use for the rear.

Use dogbone washers on the fronts and you have less slippage issues.


Tom VandenOever DSP 7
TexasRegion SCCA

> -----Original Message-----
> From: neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 10:47 AM
> To: neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Neon SOHC Power] Considering Parting Out the Highline
>
> --- dj4monie <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> >  Actually like the last 2 '95's it has been impounded. This
> time for
> > unknown reasons. The fees are paid, the car hasn't been
> transfered yet
> > , it has to be smogged. Why DMV gave LAPD the okay to tow
> it when it
> > wasn't abandoned (I just drove the week before) is just puzzling.
> >
> >  I'm getting tired of it.
> >
> >  That's several hundred lost in the last 3 years because of various
> > issues with where I park the car.
>
> WTF!  Sounds to me like they are running a racket and hiding
> behind the law.
>
> >  I'll get it back, but its stupid they don't know how to
> leave my cars
> > alone.
> >
> >  As for parting it -
> >
> >  I'll only part certain parts I think.
> >
> >  I need a DOHC motor to be competitive in Street Stock, the
> SOHC just
> > won't cut it.
>
> Not even a Magnum, or is that not legal because of the age
> difference between the car and the engine?
>
>  Since the AC needs a recharge I might pull that. My main
> > problem is lack of space. As Jon Quirt and Harry
> (Hondakilla) knows,
> > there's alot of cars here and no place to work on them really.
>
> I understand.  Remember, I grew up in So Cal.
>
> >  I really need to find someplace to work on park my car(s).
>
> What you need is a neighborhood speed shop, and a friend on
> the inside.  :P
>
> >  I got Stage 1, Motor Mount inserrts and Mopar BOV for the SRT-4.
> > Waiting on drag radials now.
>
> I've got to keep it small right now, due to budgetary concerns.
>
> Anyone know the torque specs on the Mopar crash bolts?  Speed
> & Power Development didn't give me that info...
>
> ~S~
>
> Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often,
> and for the same reason.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection
> around http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> --------------------~-->
> Something is new at Yahoo! Groups.  Check out the enhanced
> email design.
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/SISQkA/gOaOAA/yQLSAA/qRtqlB/TM
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> ------~->
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

--- dj4monie <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

>  Actually like the last 2 '95's it has been impounded. This time for
> unknown reasons. The fees are paid, the car hasn't been transfered yet
> , it has to be smogged. Why DMV gave LAPD the okay to tow it when it
> wasn't abandoned (I just drove the week before) is just puzzling.
>
>  I'm getting tired of it.
>
>  That's several hundred lost in the last 3 years because of various
> issues with where I park the car.

WTF!  Sounds to me like they are running a racket and hiding behind the law.

>  I'll get it back, but its stupid they don't know how to leave my cars
> alone.
>
>  As for parting it -
>
>  I'll only part certain parts I think.
>
>  I need a DOHC motor to be competitive in Street Stock, the SOHC just
> won't cut it.

Not even a Magnum, or is that not legal because of the age difference between
the car and the
engine?

  Since the AC needs a recharge I might pull that. My main
> problem is lack of space. As Jon Quirt and Harry (Hondakilla) knows,
> there's alot of cars here and no place to work on them really.

I understand.  Remember, I grew up in So Cal.

>  I really need to find someplace to work on park my car(s).

What you need is a neighborhood speed shop, and a friend on the inside.  :P

>  I got Stage 1, Motor Mount inserrts and Mopar BOV for the SRT-4.
> Waiting on drag radials now.

I've got to keep it small right now, due to budgetary concerns.

Anyone know the torque specs on the Mopar crash bolts?  Speed & Power
Development didn't give
me that info...

~S~

Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and for the same
reason.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Actually like the last 2 '95's it has been impounded. This time for
unknown reasons. The fees are paid, the car hasn't been transfered yet
, it has to be smogged. Why DMV gave LAPD the okay to tow it when it
wasn't abandoned (I just drove the week before) is just puzzling.

  I'm getting tired of it.

  That's several hundred lost in the last 3 years because of various
issues with where I park the car.

  I'll get it back, but its stupid they don't know how to leave my cars
alone.

  As for parting it -

  I'll only part certain parts I think.

  I need a DOHC motor to be competitive in Street Stock, the SOHC just
won't cut it. Since the AC needs a recharge I might pull that. My main
problem is lack of space. As Jon Quirt and Harry (Hondakilla) knows,
there's alot of cars here and no place to work on them really.

  I really need to find someplace to work on park my car(s).

  I got Stage 1, Motor Mount inserrts and Mopar BOV for the SRT-4.
Waiting on drag radials now.





--- In neonsohcpower@yahoogroups.com, Scott
<stilldreaming_original@...> wrote:
>
> Man, you always post when I'm too busy to reply, and then they get
lost in my mailbox for
> weeks.  :P
>
> --- dj4monie <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
> >  I will have time when I come back from my trip to fix it and I would
> > really like to drive it back and forth to work instead of the SRT-4
> > because it will get about 4-5mpg better than the SRT-4 does.
>
> That was my experience, too.  Not only that, but the SOHC drinks
cheaper gas.  Stranger yet for
> me is that my SOHC is getting significantly better mileage than it
has EVER gotten.  For years
> it got on average 30 MPG on the dot.  Lately, it's been a tick over
35 MPG.  I have no idea
> why, but I don't want to mess with it!
>
> >  But I might consider parting it out in exchange for your stock parts
> > in return so I can let the car be taken to the yard and ripped up.
>
> That would be a shame.  ...What parts do you have?  lol  Did you
keep the car?
>
> ~S~
>
> Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and for
the same reason.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>

Man, you always post when I'm too busy to reply, and then they get lost in my
mailbox for
weeks.  :P

--- dj4monie <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

>  I will have time when I come back from my trip to fix it and I would
> really like to drive it back and forth to work instead of the SRT-4
> because it will get about 4-5mpg better than the SRT-4 does.

That was my experience, too.  Not only that, but the SOHC drinks cheaper gas. 
Stranger yet for
me is that my SOHC is getting significantly better mileage than it has EVER
gotten.  For years
it got on average 30 MPG on the dot.  Lately, it's been a tick over 35 MPG.  I
have no idea
why, but I don't want to mess with it!

>  But I might consider parting it out in exchange for your stock parts
> in return so I can let the car be taken to the yard and ripped up.

That would be a shame.  ...What parts do you have?  lol  Did you keep the car?

~S~

Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and for the same
reason.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

I have white smoke out my tale pipe any ideas?

Adam,
Maybe there is another way to go about this, if you desire to keep your
Neon... About 10 years back, I had a deer take a good deal of my front
end off, just west of Bucklin, KS... I had Comp coverage on the car,
which covered this event. Car was a 87 Beretta... State Farm was going
to pay me $2400 to take/junk the car... If I wanted it to keep the car,
I would have to pay them $1500 to buy it back, then pay to fix it with
the remaining $900.. Hood, right fender, radiator, ac condensor all
needing replacing. What I decided to do, was fix it myself, using
"aftermarket" parts...and then let State Farm inspect it to return it
back to original insurance coverages. We settled for $2150 and I fixed
it all myself for $1100, the most expensive part was having the hood and
fender repainted... I bought a new aftermarket hood in El Paso for $85,
and new fender for $42, and etc..so in the end, I earned $1050 for doing
it all myself. I still have that car today.... Just another way around
this situation of yours... Good Luck,, Duane Koss / Fort Sumner, NM
PS.. Don't base the value on eBay listing... try www.kbb.com for the
blue book price for dealers and self.


Sean Elliott wrote:
> pending on how much more than 1500... if only 1800 for total.. .u only gain  
300 for a car u can't keep anymore (or that you have to buy back). if u don't  
have exterior mods... now's the perfect time for them; u get 1500 to do it and  
you get to keep a car. I'd keep it if less than $500 difference of  
totalling...
>     ~Sean
>
>
> Adam Ziniewicz <aziniewicz@...> wrote:        Anyone have any
insurance experience? I'm asking because I got an estimate
>   for my 98 Dodge Neon for $1500 after I was hit by a dump truck yesterday abd
>   a friend asked if they were going to total out the car. That never crossed
>   my mind.
>
>   But it got me thinking - the value of the car isn't much more that $1500 I
>   think based on E-bay listings. It has about 110K miles
>
>   How do they decide that? Fix or total?
>
>   Thanks
>
>   Adam
>
>
>
>
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
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>
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>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min
with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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> Yahoo! Groups Links
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>

pending on how much more than 1500... if only 1800 for total.. .u only gain  
300 for a car u can't keep anymore (or that you have to buy back). if u don't  
have exterior mods... now's the perfect time for them; u get 1500 to do it and  
you get to keep a car. I'd keep it if less than $500 difference of  
totalling...
     ~Sean


Adam Ziniewicz <aziniewicz@...> wrote:        Anyone have any insurance
experience? I'm asking because I got an estimate
   for my 98 Dodge Neon for $1500 after I was hit by a dump truck yesterday abd
   a friend asked if they were going to total out the car. That never crossed
   my mind.

   But it got me thinking - the value of the car isn't much more that $1500 I
   think based on E-bay listings. It has about 110K miles

   How do they decide that? Fix or total?

   Thanks

   Adam




   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone  calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min
with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Anyone have any insurance experience? I'm asking because I got an estimate
for my 98 Dodge Neon for $1500 after I was hit by a dump truck yesterday abd
a friend asked if they were going to total out the car. That never crossed
my mind.

But it got me thinking - the value of the car isn't much more that $1500 I
think based on E-bay listings. It has about 110K miles

How do they decide that? Fix or total?

Thanks

Adam




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- Adam Ziniewicz <aziniewicz@...> wrote:

> Anyone have one - In central Florida?
>
> I've seen some on E-bay for about $35.00 - they say new - anyone ever bought
> a fender from E-bay?

Seriously, I wouldn't trust a re-pop for anything.  Even if the steel is decent,
chances are
fitment is going to SUCK.  You get what you pay for here.

> I also thought about a junk yeard.

That's what I'd do.

> Are they easy to change?

Have you /seen/ some of the knuckleheads that swap stock fenders for the
Z3-style fenders?  ;)
You can do it, trust me.  The worst part is the alignment.

Good luck.

~S~

Politicians are like diapers: they need to be changed often, and for the same
reason.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Anyone have one - In central Florida?

I've seen some on E-bay for about $35.00 - they say new - anyone ever bought
a fender from E-bay?

I also thought about a junk yeard.

Are they easy to change?

Thanks

Adam
98 Neon vs Dump truck survivor




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I will have time when I come back from my trip to fix it and I would
really like to drive it back and forth to work instead of the SRT-4
because it will get about 4-5mpg better than the SRT-4 does.

  But I might consider parting it out in exchange for your stock parts
in return so I can let the car be taken to the yard and ripped up.

  There's nothing really that special about this car and it really only
needs a rebuilt or low-mileage engine. However saving for my trip to
Europe is put me in a money crunch for the next 60 days and I need to
smog it to finish the transfer from the sale last year.

  I don't know, maybe I'll just drop another stock engine into it and
just drive it for now.

  If your interested in any part of it let me know.

hi adam,
   it could be anything electrical or fuel related... ie - fuel 
filter/pump/rail/injectors, O2 sensor, cat converter, etc. However, I  would
check the TPS (throttle position sensor). If voltage is  fluctuating (tested
with circuit tester) change TPS *located engine  side on throttle body next to
exhaust manifold*. If not, go to your  nearest Dodge/Chrysler Dealership and
have them scan it. Lemme know.

Adam Ziniewicz <aziniewicz@...> wrote:        Hi everyone

   I started having a strange thing happen with my 98 Neon atx the last few
   weeks.

   Sometimes it just can't accelerate for a stop until it hit almost 30mph. It
   sounds like its vapor locked or starved for gas or something. It doesn't
   matter it its part of full throttle.

   Having the A/C on does seem to make it worse.

   I don't think it's the cat or the exhaust because it seems to kick in once I
   hit 30 mph. I had a cat blocked on my old Z24 and it would not go past
   45mph.

   Do I need to run some injector cleaner? I usually use 87 octane Mobil gas.

   My O2 sensor is about 6 months old. The TB was removed and replaced with a
   55mm unit about a year ago.

   I hope to get an answer right away because I had hoped to race it at the
   strip on Friday. On that note - what can I do to improve my times? Should I
   run 93 octane at the track?? Should I use an octane booster?? My best time
   is 17.2 at 82mph with my auto slug box sohc.

   Thanks - please let me know what might be causing this choking under 30 mph.

   Adam







   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi everyone

I started having a strange thing happen with my 98 Neon atx the last few
weeks.

Sometimes it just can't accelerate for a stop until it hit almost 30mph. It
sounds like its vapor locked or starved for gas or something. It doesn't
matter it its part of full throttle.

Having the A/C on does seem to make it worse.

I don't think it's the cat or the exhaust because it seems to kick in once I
hit 30 mph. I had a cat blocked on my old Z24 and it would not go past
45mph.

Do I need to run some injector cleaner? I usually use 87 octane Mobil gas.

My O2 sensor is about 6 months old. The TB was removed and replaced with a
55mm unit about a year ago.

I hope to get an answer right away because I had hoped to race it at the
strip on Friday. On that note - what can I do to improve my times? Should I
run 93 octane at the track?? Should I use an octane booster?? My best time
is 17.2 at 82mph with my auto slug box sohc.

Thanks - please let me know what might be causing this choking under 30 mph.

Adam







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]