Rick,
As a new rider, I don’t have any
experience to talk about regarding tires. When I was getting ready to replace
my rear tire I sent an email to one of my friends in
I asked if he had any recommendations for
tires and I also asked if there were any safety issues using a different brand
between front and back.
Here is an excerpt from the email that he
replied to me:
Mike,
I've tried virtually all the
sport touring tires on the Concours, and I think the Avon Azzaro ST45 and ST46
are the best. Best cornering, and by far the best wear. They should wear even
better on a 750 than on the Concours, because of the lower weight. You would
have to check to make sure
I liked Dunlop 205's better
than the Concour's stock Dunlops. The 205's later became 220s. They have a
reputation for long mileage, but not the two sets I had. The front was hard to
lay over in a corner, and the rears wore out in only 4K miles. The Michelins
handled well, but didn't wear well either. Bridgestones are pretty good tires,
with a good grip. I haven't heard anything bad about them, and I haven't used
them on the Concours, but the Battlax won't last as long as the
The ideal situation is to
use the same brand and model tires front and rear.
They are generally designed
for this with complementary and supplementary tread patterns. Typically, the
front outlasts the rear about 2 to 1, so the best time to change brands is
every second tire change. But be careful, because it isn't exact timing.
In reality, there isn't that
much difference, and it certainly is not dangerous to mix brands. Just don't
mix radials and non-radials. You could certainly put an Avon ST-46 on the rear
now, and replace the front with an ST-45 later. Or put on another Battlax for
now, and when it wears out, put on two Avons. Or bite the bullet, trash the
front Battlax, and put on two Avons NOW!
It's generally not a good
idea to change tire sizes - that's somewhat experimental. You might find some
combination that works better than the stock sizes, but probably not. Bigger
tires can increase traction and reduce wear, but the tires on the 7S are
already pretty wide. After a point, bigger width tires slow down steering and
can cause interference problems with the swingarm or chain. And they cost fuel
mileage. You can generally go UP only about one width with existing rims;
after that you need wider rims.
Different profile (height)
tires can raise or lower the front vs. the rear, which can have significant
effect on cornering and stability. Some people do that on purpose - often a
taller back tire, or shorter front tire speeds up steering - weighting the
front wheel and decreasing trail. The opposite makes a bike more
"stable" and slower steering. But it's probably best to stay with
the 160/60ZR-17. That's a 160mm width, sidewall height 60% of width (profile),
150+mph rating, and radial, for a 17' wheel.
If you haven't been through
the motorcycle tire changing thing yet, you will find you have to consider the
price of the tire PLUS the price of installation. Many dealers will charge $25
or more, per wheel, to install! Some will charge $50 if you don't buy the tire
there! So you have to find the best total price package, tire plus
installation. My local Kaw dealer has good tire prices, but charges a fortune
to install. If you buy 'em online cheap, the dealers will try to punish you on
install. So, I use a little guy who does only tires - sells all brands for a
decent price, but installs them for only $10, if you bring in the wheel. Best
overall price.
It's definitely worth
investigating. By the way, it's virtually impossible to change and mount a
large rear radial yourself - without automated tools. Possible but VERY
difficult!! Plus you will screw up the rim. You can readily change dirt bike
tires with hand tools, but not street bike tires. Particularly the rear.
I have generally found ideal
tire mileage and handling to occur at about 2 or 3 pounds ABOVE manufacturer's
spec for air pressure - particularly for the front tire. Too low and the front
will cup. Over the long term, you can tell by wear patterns - if the tires
tend to wear out too soon in the middle of the tread, it is too hard. If it
tends to cup, it is probably too soft. My bikes corner MUCH better with 2 or 3
extra pounds in the front tire. Even quality tires can leak down 3 or 4 pounds
a week, and need to be checked and inflated EXACTLY every time you ride - well,
every DAY that you ride.
From:
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 5:58
PM
To:
Subject: [ncSport-Touring] Tire
Suggestions
Well it looks like the rear tire has about 1000
miles left on it. That won't last long!
I've been getting about 7k miles on rear tires and was wondering if anyone any
suggestions for a longer lasting tire. Since I do ALOT of touring
the Micheline Powers Roads and the Metzler Z6's I ran before lasted to 7K which
isn't bad. But I'm wearing them out right down the
middle. I did notice my chicken strip was smaller on the
Micheline's and that made sense to me cuz I felt more confident in the turns
with them than I did with the z6's. Just never could get used to the flat
shape of the z6's.
Mike (Allen) what did you run on your
VFR? I know you did ALOT of touring on it. What kind of
milage did you get on your tires? Any suggestions?
I have thought of moving to a more touring oriented
tire, but an a little hesitant to do that cuz I do still like to wick it up
through the turns sometimes and am concerned with loosing too much
grip.
Live to Ride!
96 Honda VFR 750
NC Sport-Touring Group
Southern Cruisers
Greater
Member ID #70024
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