Hi all. If you frequent Mazspeed.com or other rx-7 websites, you've
most likely seen my screen name before.
I am looking to restore the Michigan Rx-7 Club and celebrate the
return of the rotary engine to our shores. The SevenSport website
seems to have disappeared. I have several ideas for events in the
Southeast Michigan area for 2004, including a "Rotary Revival" get
together at Waterford Hills Road Racing Inc. sometime next summer.
I am a VERY active Rx-7 owner with an 84 GS. I have been a Crew
Chief on an IT7 team for several years and have run my car
competitively in SCCA Solo II in past years.
If you are interested in making MI Rotary Power a true interative
club, please drop me a note (bobrx7@...). Someone with web
page experience would be welcomed with open arms. I think we can get
it going for very little money and minimal time investment.
Let's keep the rotary heritage alive in Michigan. We love `em. . .
We brag on `em and we scoff at the idea of cams and valves!!!
Thanks
Bob (NOPSTONSRACING)
Welcome Hugo!
This groups very quiet as of late, but I do keep an eye on it. Feel
free to post, and to share this site with anyone else who may be
interested.
Damn. Yeah that's a line alright. They're the ones who told me I
needed a new engine, check my web page for more details. They're
absolute morons. This was before I did some research and found out
not to go near them, it was the dead of winter and didn't have a
place to check on the engine myself, it was a month after I bought
the car. Anyway... check mazda's web site, the dealer listings,
you'll see 8 or 9 certs for both the Bill Cook Imports, and Ferndale
Mazda. I highly reccomend going to Ferndale. They really know
their stuff, and are great at getting parts. I had ordered
transmission seals and they were next day aired from California, at
no charge to me.
Really? That's pretty poor. I thought they were one of the highest volume Mazda
dealers in the state (well, that's the BS line they gave me).
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There is 1 message in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Ugh
From: frzndaqiri
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 16:51:09 -0000
From: frzndaqiri
Subject: Ugh
Stay away from Livonia Mazda on Plymouth Rd, they don't have a
single certification, all the techs are morons who have never worked
on a rotary in their life, and several mazda reps themselves have
told me they want to shut the place down.
________________________________________________________________________
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Patrick Ramsey
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Stay away from Livonia Mazda on Plymouth Rd, they don't have a
single certification, all the techs are morons who have never worked
on a rotary in their life, and several mazda reps themselves have
told me they want to shut the place down.
I've seen a few on the road and when I went to Livonia mazda in July they had 4
in stock being prepared for sale.
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There is 1 message in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RX8
From: cozmicharlie
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 06:36:06 -0000
From: cozmicharlie
Subject: RX8
Have any of you seen this car yet?
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Patrick Ramsey
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In mirotarypower@y..., jimmyv13 wrote:
> Street - Ported by Hayes Rotary (47K), car has
> 148K<br>RB full racing twin presilencer exhaust<br>Optima
> battery<br>K&N Air Filter<br>Accel super coils<br>Alpine CD with
> Boston Acoustics speakers<br>new tires<br>slight front
> end damage(5MPH)<br>B/O<br><br>email me if interested
don't know if you've still got it available, but I have a friend who's
looking for a new car, his got totalled and he only had PLPD
insurance, and even though it was completely the other guys fault,
he's screwed anyhow.. so, if you still have it, eMail me
demi1749@...
Street - Ported by Hayes Rotary (47K), car has
148K<br>RB full racing twin presilencer exhaust<br>Optima
battery<br>K&N Air Filter<br>Accel super coils<br>Alpine CD with
Boston Acoustics speakers<br>new tires<br>slight front
end damage(5MPH)<br>B/O<br><br>email me if interested
The pieces you should be able to pick up on
www.thepartstrader.com from someone. As for the vacuum lines you can get
those from www.mazdatrix.com for a decent price, or if
you're lucky the local car parts store. Not sure how
much, plus it differs for each car. So best bet is to
measure what you've got. Same with sizes. Hmmm. Trying to
answer off the top of my head. But hope I helped
some.<br>Good luck<br>Melanie
if anyone in the area is interested, I can even
POSSIBLY arrange for delivery, I've got an '85 GS for
sale, it's slated for a parts car right now just cause
it doesn't run, but I haven't needed the pieces, and
this thing is basically a rustfree car.. if any of you
want to race at Waterford Hills this season, I can
definitely help you with that, and this car would be great
for that, or for a winter project for a street car..
I just need to pay some bills, I'm asking $800 or
best offer for it, it's in really good shape in terms
of little rust, and I have lots of extra parts to
help you out with.<br><br>Other than that, come out to
Waterford Hills this season to watch me race my '80 :)
Anyone have any extra interior plastic pieces or
a boost sensor, I also need a power antenna mast.
Also wondering what sizes and how much hose I would
need to replace the vaccum lines and where to buy
them.
Thanks Melanie I did find two at a boneyard 2 miles from home. I got one for 50
bucks and it worked. What pain to install unless you splice wires!<br><br>Bear
Does anybody know if there is a problem with the
Logic Heater Control units in the 87 RX7's.<br>I've got
no heat. The engine is running at the proper temp
range, the thermostat is good, the blower works and the
air comes out of the correct ducts and vents, but it
is cold air. Any help on this would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks everyone for your help with "fuel
problems" it turned out to be the pump.<br>The car runs
great after a 2 1/2 year layoff but it needs rubber and
brakes. Paint job is scheduled for this winter.
Yes the seals will have issues if not taken care
of, esp for such a long amount of time. But with his
fuel problems, we need to get the car started and see
where were at first. If they are already damaged, then
he can do no worse to them. Need to see how the car
runs, then he can determine if the engine needs
servicing too.<br><br>Do all my own engine work, so I am
here to consult.<br><br>Daqiri
Hey guy's...sorry to butt-in to your
conversation, but I have had a few problems similiar to
Bearman. I bought my '85 RX in '95 with 48K. It, too, sat
for an extended period of time, over two years. I got
the car running after a few weeks of learing about
the rotary and messin' with it. A mechanic told me
the rear seals will blow if the car sits without
running for over 6 months. Mine took a while, but they
went out at 101K. I just drove it til they blew. I was
hust cruisin' at 60 in fifth gear, and boom...the car
slowed and would not go over 30. My mechanic tried to
inject tranny fluid into the chambers to expand the
seals(I guess it works sometimes), but to no avail. I had
it sent away to street-port it and I found out that
the seals blew in the back rotor because they rotted
out. The seals HAVE to get wet with oil
every-so-often. This is a common problem with RX's that sit. Just
something to think about before you run yours.
I have to part with my baby....I need money for
school. I am selling an '85 RX7 GSL with a documented
mild street-port with 40K, racing beat twin
pre-silencer exhaust, K&N, Accel super coils, Optima Red Top
Battery, Alpine CD w/ remote, fresh brakes, newer tires,
slight front end damage...radiator is good..but left
headlight needs motor and header panel is dented, car needs
paint( as do most 80's RX7's), some rust just beginning
around fender weels and bottom of doors. Reply if
interested...we'll see if we can work something out.
Thanks, I'll check out that used pump for now, and get a new one in the spring.
At least I'll be able to drive the car sooner !=) <br><br>Thanks
again<br>Bearman
Cool is that a new or used pump. If it's used,
then you could find a better deal from
"thepartstrader.com" about 30 w/ shipping. Or you could take the
opportunity to get a performance pump! =)<br><br>Livonia
here<br><br>have fun!<br>Daqiri
Ok I found the connecter and there is juice so I
pulled the pump and tested it. It is dead. i found a new
pump for 100 bucks but I have to wait for payday to
get it. Thanks for your help!!!<br><br>I am in
Chesterfield MI. Where are you?
AHH well should have noted in my last reply, the
connector is located on the rear driver's side shock tower.
Oh and might be a good idea to find a Haynes manual,
it is specific to that car, and has better diagrams
and schematics, whereas Chilton's kind of generalizes
several "similar" cars into one book.<br><br>The pump
should come on with key in the run position, shouldn't
have to crank it on this car.<br><br>Try that out, and
get back to me.<br>Good luck.<br>BTW Where are you
located?<br><br>Daqiri
Thanks for your reply. I have checked the plugs
which are new and dry.I have also checked the fuel tank
and the gas appears to be ok it does look and smell
fresh. The fuel filter does have some skanky gas in it
and I will replace it. The connceter for the fuel
pump is weird. it has 4 wires. one of them is a ground
and is located on the outside of the fuel pump cover.
The other 3 wires have what seems to be a sealent
coating on them and I don't belive that they can be
removed from outside. Inside the cover the wires are
attached with a nut on a stud. I have 2 question/concerns
about testing them for resistance A) is the fuel pump
supposed to come on with the key in the run position or
does it start when you begin to crank. B) I am
concerned about checking for resistence with the cover
open, If it sparks this could be a big problem.<br><br>
I am pretty sure the problem is with the fuel pump.
The system had no pressure in it when I checked the
filter. Also the fuel in the tank smells and looks ok the
screen on the pump is clean. I worked in small engine
repair for a long time and bad fuel was a problem I am
very familier with. As I said the plugs are clean and
dry which also indicates to me that no fuel is
getting to the injectors. <br><br>As I said before my big
concern is the discrepancy in the wiring at the fuel
pump. Both you and the manuel (Chiltons) say that there
is a connecter that can be unplugged at the pump
cover. The wiring on the car does not look like any
connecter that can be unplugged. Any help or advice will be
greatly appreciated. I currently am driving a pick-up
that gets 6-10 MPG.
Well I'm not sure what you've checked on already,
so I'm going to run down a list of first things to
do.... Also how did you determine it was the
pump?<br><br>Here goes<br><br>you prob know there is a connector
for the fuel pump under the carpet in the rear hatch
area on the drivers side strut cover, I would unplug
it and test to see if any resistance is going
through when you try to start the car, if there is then
the pump is bad<br><br>Another thing to consider is
the gas sitting in there all that time can go bad,
will actually kinda turn to jelly. Open up the fuel
tank where the pump goes in and look inside to see if
its gotten that bad. Even if it hasn't, I would
suggest draining the tank and filling it with fresh
gasoline. You should also replace the fuel filter.
<br><br>Since you've been attempting to start it, you may have
fouled the plugs, and should keep an eye on them. They
get fouled very easily. Don't want to solve one
problem only to find another!<br><br>Let me know if this
helps and detail what you've been trying.<br><br>Good
luck
I recently aquired a 1987 RX7 non turbo with
47,000 miles on it from the original owner. The car has
been sitting for about 1 1/2 years since it was last
started. The problem is, it won't. I have traced the
problem to lack of fuel specificaly the fuel pump is not
getting power. Does anybody know of a relay or solinoid
that may need to be reset or replaced after prolonged
storage. or if this is a comman problem.