Just for interest, I too have a clear float bowl and on WOT, if I turn off the
fuel and watch the fuel level drop in the bowl, it only starts to splutter when
there is next to nothing left, not before.

This seems to indicate once again that I have a very rich mixture.

The air bleed hole is 0.8 mm on the OKO. The original Honda carb (a 1980 one)
although quite different on construction, has much the same emulsion tube
drilling pattern and it has a 1.8 mm air hole.

I'm talking myself into drilling a bigger air hole aren't I.  I think a bigger
main jet will compensate for a oversize air jet.

Cheers Wallace

On Sunday 11 March 2012 08:24:15 marshengnz wrote:
> Just for interest, I too have a clear float bowl and on WOT, if I turn off
> the fuel and watch the fuel level drop in the bowl, it only starts to
> splutter when there is next to nothing left, not before.
>
> This seems to indicate once again that I have a very rich mixture.
>
> The air bleed hole is 0.8 mm on the OKO. The original Honda carb (a 1980
> one) although quite different on construction, has much the same emulsion
> tube drilling pattern and it has a 1.8 mm air hole.
>
> I'm talking myself into drilling a bigger air hole aren't I.  I think a
> bigger main jet will compensate for a oversize air jet.
>
> Cheers Wallace
wallace,
  yes 0.8mm does appear to be a bit small the trick with 30mm & 28mm Mikuni's
was to go to 2mm air jet on a 200cc barrel,  I do not recall ever changing
air jet size on the 250Cc twins (ie 125 cc barrels ) and i do not remember
what stock for the 28 or 30mm carbs were.(certainly smaller than 2.0)

--
TTFN
    Caparo.

original message
--- In mc-engine@yahoogroups.com, "marshengnz" <marshland@...> wrote:
>
snippety........  I get a nice thick mist at the carb mouth above 9500 through
to 13000
>
> It has an emulsion  tube and from what I have read, above 2/3 throttle, the
holes in the tube lean the mixture off to ensure the correct balance. My guess
is there is so much fuel being drawn out that it is not really vapourising well
and floating all over the place...... =======================

The nominal airflow in a carb near open throttle and high rpm is probably 100
mph or more. After sticking my head out the window at 60 mph my senses tell me
there is not much drifting or floating going on in the upstream directiobn in a
100 mph gale, without some powerful wave action going on in the
intake/engine/exhaust system.

Partially closed throttles are good at reflecting/blocking waves.

D as in kiddie size, but oh my they are as cute and clever as they are
expensive.

http://dpowerracingengines.com/engines.html

Sorry its just a car, one even Speed Racer would give both nuts for.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNuiDEoRgqs&feature=player_embedded

>D as in kiddie size, but oh my they are as cute and clever as they are
>expensive.


Looking at the prices, it's obviously an area that the Chinese haven't
got into yet !!   $4k for a simple 2 str with no g.box and you don't
even get the carb for that price ??


Cheers          IAN


See www.drysdalev8.com for :
- Drysdale 750-V8 Sports & 1000-V8 Cruiser
- DRYVTECH 2x2x2 Experimental
- Carberry Enfield 1000cc V-Twin
- Drysdale Hillclimb Open Wheeler

On Tuesday 13 March 2012 05:22:14 Ian wrote:
> >D as in kiddie size, but oh my they are as cute and clever as they are
> >expensive.
>
> Looking at the prices, it's obviously an area that the Chinese haven't
> got into yet !!   $4k for a simple 2 str with no g.box and you don't
> even get the carb for that price ??
>
>
> Cheers          IAN


Ian,
  you took the words right out of my mouth, sheesh they think they have enough
suckers around to pay those prices Hmm......
--
TTFN
    Caparo.

On Tuesday 13 March 2012 07:34:26 mike lowe wrote:
> I think this would go better in a bike.
>
> http://www.brceng.com/250fe.html
>
Hi,
  Looks like two Rotax engines cobbled together with a distinct lack of pricing

--
TTFN
    Caparo.

On Tuesday 13 March 2012 13:40:55 Marc Brewster wrote:
> A bunch of builders went to Bonneville one year and used that engine
>
> http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/6990/Motorcycle-Photo-Gallery-Photo/Roger-Gol
>dammer.aspx
>
> Marc
Marc,
  someone had some EXTREMELY deep pockets if you look at the detail of the
various top brand bits. I should have shaved my head and gots some 'tats as
all these expensive bikes seem to belong to guys with shiny heads and ink


--
TTFN
    Caparo.

Looking down it inhaling fuel spray

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DCaFMSj5mI

This is a fun fast action lots of neat animation and blown melted parts sale
pitch that sure gets me. They don't cover water's catalytic clusters or IR
photon absorption though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkPFZWd8wj4&feature=related

Time to time on various motors I spray water in them via a pump
up house planter sprayer though finger pumpers work it you feel
athletic.  Spray and spray and spray and rev and rev till exhaust
isn't so nasty greyish sooty.   If you over do it it just stalls, so
restart and use a bit less or rev more which is better.

Cleaning coked piston, try industrial paint stripper or a gunsmith
method.

On 3/14/2012 12:04 AM, hobot wrote:
> This is a fun fast action lots of neat animation and blown melted
> parts sale
> pitch that sure gets me. They don't cover water's catalytic clusters
> or IR
> photon absorption though.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkPFZWd8wj4&feature=related
>
> Time to time on various motors I spray water in them via a pump
> up house planter sprayer though finger pumpers work it you feel
> athletic.  Spray and spray and spray and rev and rev till exhaust
> isn't so nasty greyish sooty.   If you over do it it just stalls, so
> restart and use a bit less or rev more which is better.
>
> Cleaning coked piston, try industrial paint stripper or a gunsmith
> method.
>
Boil the piston and gas plug then dunk them in icy water. Cycle the
parts between the boiling water and iced water. After 4 or 5 cycles you
can use just any solvent and the carbon will just run out. Carbon and
steel being dissimilar metals will expand and contract at a different
rate, thus the carbon will break away from the steel. I've used this
cleaning the bolt carrier in the black gun

Ok here's a different hybrid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVB3fvaMbrI&feature=fvwp&NR=1

> This is a fun fast action lots of neat animation and blown melted
  > parts sale
  > pitch that sure gets me. They don't cover water's catalytic

I was thinking along these exact lines last week !!!

What happens if you add water to the combustion process?

Ok power is made buy heating the air/fuel (AF) which expands and creates the
driving pressure. PV = nRT.

Now we know that changing water from liquid to solid takes a lot of energy.
(Latent heat)
So here goes the possible faults with the video theory -

If there are any water molecules in the combustion chamber, it will take a
considerable amount of energy to convert this to gas. This energy used up, is
now taken away from the heating ability of the AF mixture which then effectively
reduces it's final pressure rise.

Ok So the best power gain you may have, is what you would expect on a cold damp
morning compared to what you get on a hot 35deg (C) dry day.

So what we need is enough water to evaporate and cool the mixture on the way
into the engine only but no more. Any more will retract from the net power
created.

 

Various systems have been proposed for years,

biggest problem (AFAIK) is that super-heated steam is an excellent scrubber and will rapidly clean the oil barrier off the cylinder walls.

Next cycle, seizure?

The Crower six cycle is another:

http://theautoprophet.blogspot.com.au/2008/06/six-cycle-engine-gas-steam.html

But having reached a mental dead-end on that front, I thought of a similar thing to BMW...

http://www.gizmag.com/go/4936/picture/17891/

But rather than all the plumbing and extra engine bits, just use a lightly modified turbo to run a high speed alternator and charge battery,

run AC, playstation, DVD, internet, microwave etc...

 

Roger

 

> This is a fun fast action lots of neat animation and blown melted
> parts sale
> pitch that sure gets me. They don't cover water's catalytic

I was thinking along these exact lines last week !!!

What happens if you add water to the combustion process?

Ok power is made buy heating the air/fuel (AF) which expands and creates the driving pressure. PV = nRT.

Now we know that changing water from liquid to solid takes a lot of energy. (Latent heat)
So here goes the possible faults with the video theory -

If there are any water molecules in the combustion chamber, it will take a considerable amount of energy to convert this to gas. This energy used up, is now taken away from the heating ability of the AF mixture which then effectively reduces it's final pressure rise.

Ok So the best power gain you may have, is what you would expect on a cold damp morning compared to what you get on a hot 35deg (C) dry day.

So what we need is enough water to evaporate and cool the mixture on the way into the engine only but no more. Any more will retract from the net power created.
~-|**|PrettyHtmlEnd|**|-~ end group email -->

http://www.reuters.com/article/2012/02/13/us-ducati-sale-idUSTRE81C0VV20120213

 Any news for that from other resources?

http://tinyurl.com/78srtcd

Cheers
Carsten

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--
Stephane

On the Dyno, I can get a good long run in 6th gear and it's easy to watch the
carb doing its thing.

Above half throttle, I could see fountains of fuel being sucked up the needle
jet and wetting the carb all over. Funny the bike still ran without spluttering.

Ok so I looked in my box of needles and found a much fatter one. The original
was 1 mm at the bottom and the new one a hefty 1.3 mm

I put it all together and the vapour trail was significantly improved and the
motor ran smoothly to 12500. I didn't have much time to experiment as we had
visitors on their way.

Now the interesting part and the bit that needs explaining.

With the original needle, it idled well but didn't pick up well to 1/4 throttle.
The original needle at idle position is 2,40 mm in diameter in the needle jet.

The new needle was 2.5 mm in diameter. The motor idled well but as soon as I
reved it, it hung around at 4000 and wouldn't come back down to idle. I have had
this problem before and it necessitated a much bigger idle jet.

Ok so what must have happened with the original needle was, that some of the
idle mixture must have been supplied via the needle and needle jet as well as
the idle jet.

Has anyone had experience with this combination before ?  The relationship
between idle jet and, needle and needle jet. It not mentioned in the books.

I'm sure I can get it to work but was hoping for more info.

Cheers Wallace

--- In mc-engine@yahoogroups.com, "marshengnz" <marshland@...> wrote:
>
> On the Dyno, I can get a good long run in 6th gear and it's easy to watch the
carb doing its thing.
>
> Above half throttle, I could see fountains of fuel being sucked up the needle
jet and wetting the carb all over. Funny the bike still ran without spluttering.
>
....................
> Ok so what must have happened with the original needle was, that some of the
idle mixture must have been supplied via the needle and needle jet as well as
the idle jet.
>
> Has anyone had experience with this combination before ?  The relationship
between idle jet and, needle and needle jet. It not mentioned in the books.
>
> I'm sure I can get it to work but was hoping for more info.
>
> Cheers Wallace
>
Does the top of the needle jet have a protruding shield resembling a cylinder
with one side cut away. like this one?
http://www.dansmc.com/needle_jet1.jpg

> The advance curve is more of a step and the engines have a tendancy to
> 'hang' on the advance. Previously the advice has been to retard the
> ignition

I've been there. Reduced the centrifugal advance weights, tightened the springs
but the problem was the 'fall back' rpm was still way above the advance curve
start point.

The problem was fixed with a bigger idle jet. I went from a 38 to 55.

> Does the top of the needle jet have a protruding shield resembling a cylinder
with one side cut away. like this one?
> http://www.dansmc.com/needle_jet1.jpg
>

It's the other type, an emulsion tube with a short 1.5 mm protrusion into the
venturi and holes drilled into it toward the bottom.