Well my son and I have had fun with his project car but he's tired of
it now and ready to part with it. The body is pretty rough, peeling
paint, a few small dents and some rust on the sunroof, etc. The engine
has approx 20k miles, is ported and polished with high performance
apex seals. Mods include a Racing Beat road race header and
presilencer with dual exhaust, Corksport steel braided oil cooler
lines, KYB struts and a Mazdatrix driveshaft with replaceable
u-joints. The car is located in the Beaumont Texas area. Asking price
$2500 obo. Pics at
<<<http://kphenix.smugmug.com/gallery/6710287_yEuTr#428428357_4LnnX>>>

I looking for a good new o rebuild engine for my Mazda rx7-85 GSL manual
transmision 12A engine, if anyone know any , please let me know thank you.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My son's 88 GTU just popped an oil cooler line. I plan to replace them
both but I've had no luck finding them locally. I see Mazdatrix has a
nice steel braided set for $200 + shipping. Yikes! Any suggestions?
Ken

--- In mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com, "John W." <rotaryrevn@...> wrote:
>
> I forgot to ask, what city and state are you in?&nbsp;
>
> thanks
> John
>
> --- On Sat, 6/14/08, tim4me_2001 no_reply@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> From: tim4me_2001 no_reply@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Mazda Rx 7 Club] Re: 1985 RX-7 for sale
> To: mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, June 14, 2008, 6:25 AM
> JOHN:: I am in New York state,Endwell N.Y.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>             --- In mazdarx7club@ yahoogroups. com, "RotaryRevn"
&lt;rotaryrevn@ ...&gt;
>
> wrote:
>
> &gt;
>
> &gt; --- In mazdarx7club@ yahoogroups. com, tim4me_2001
&lt;no_reply@&gt; wrote:
>
> &gt; &gt;
>
> &gt; &gt; very nice RED GSL-SE for sale.Price reduced sionce it
needs clutch
>
> and
>
> &gt; &gt; tires..very nice clean car car
>
> &gt; &gt;
>
> &gt;
>
> &gt;
>
> &gt; How much?  How many miles?  Any accidents?
>
> &gt;was asking$4600, Now will cut $500 for clutch,$300 for tires
Net
>
> $3800,102800 miles,have owned it 21 years..No accidents in those
>
> years,always garaged when not in use..Really great looking "ride"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I forgot to ask, what city and state are you in? 

thanks
John

--- On Sat, 6/14/08, tim4me_2001 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
From: tim4me_2001 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Mazda Rx 7 Club] Re: 1985 RX-7 for sale
To: mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, June 14, 2008, 6:25 AM











             --- In mazdarx7club@ yahoogroups. com, "RotaryRevn" <rotaryrevn@
...>

wrote:

>

> --- In mazdarx7club@ yahoogroups. com, tim4me_2001 <no_reply@> wrote:

> >

> > very nice RED GSL-SE for sale.Price reduced sionce it needs clutch

and

> > tires..very nice clean car car

> >

>

>

> How much?  How many miles?  Any accidents?

>was asking$4600, Now will cut $500 for clutch,$300 for tires Net

$3800,102800 miles,have owned it 21 years..No accidents in those

years,always garaged when not in use..Really great looking "ride"





























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com, "RotaryRevn" <rotaryrevn@...>
wrote:
>
> --- In mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com, tim4me_2001 <no_reply@> wrote:
> >
> > very nice RED GSL-SE for sale.Price reduced sionce it needs clutch
and
> > tires..very nice clean car car
> >
>
>
> How much?  How many miles?  Any accidents?
>was asking$4600,Now will cut $500 for clutch,$300 for tires Net
$3800,102800 miles,have owned it 21 years..No accidents in those
years,always garaged when not in use..Really great looking "ride"

--- In mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com, tim4me_2001 <no_reply@...> wrote:
>
> very nice RED GSL-SE for sale.Price reduced sionce it needs clutch and
> tires..very nice clean car car
>


How much?  How many miles?  Any accidents?

very nice RED GSL-SE for sale.Price reduced sionce it needs clutch and
tires..very nice clean car car

The item that I thought was a diode is a .45 microfarad capasitor
used for radio noise suppression.

Bolted to the top of my 91 vert's engine block is a small black
device (diode?) with one wire going to it. It's size is approx. 3/4 x
5/8 x 1/2 inch thick.
   Does anyone know what it is?
   What does it do?
   Does anyone have a good one for sale?
   Thanks, Ted Duncan

This is a 1987 S4 Turbo 2. It was a Florida car and I bought it with
the intent to turn it into a track car. The engine & transmission
were rebuilt at 106563 in 2000. Transmission had the synco replaced
and centerforce clutch with FD fly wheel. Instead of replacing it
with a factory rebuild, the S4 motor was built to "cheat" SCCA
inspection. The engine has FD rotor, the shaft was custom balanced.
For durability, I chose to keep the OEM apex seal size and no
porting. Turbo was the OEM Hitachi with a major twist. I keep the
turbine wheel but CNC the compressor housing for a bigger wheel.
Objective was to give a linear curve for HP and Torque. These were
the handy work of Rally Motorsport of NJ. I believed my car was 2nd
to last they built before changing name to Bullish Racing and racing
Toyota for ¼ mile. My engine builders were Bert Gaertner & Kevin
MacVaugh. They chassis dyno the car at 227.8 HP @ 6500 rpm, 199 lb-ft
Torque @ 5500 rpm, boost was kept at factory level, 5 psi. All these
were done with the OEM 2 inch exhaust, cat, mufflers, intake, TMIC
with OEM airbox, and OEM ECU.

The car received these additional upgrades after motor work. I had
new (not rebuild) front/rear calipers with master cylinder with SS
brake lines, and clutch master & slave cylinders with SS clutch line
from Mazda installed. Suspension setup is coil-over with Koni &
Eibach springs, with Racing Beats sway bars & end links. I couldn't
recall the spring set but I followed Mazda Motorsport recommendation
based on the T2 IMSA suspension. I was extremely fortunate to locate
a pair of HKS front camber plates for the car. The rear toe bushings
were replaced as well as wheel bearings. The job was done by RX7.com
in Texas. The car has Fluidyne radiator with OEM water pump fan. Rear
diff were recently rebuilt, pulsation damper replaced, eccentric
shaft was plugged. All service works were done by KD Rotary in PA.

Exhaust is nothing special and it was replaced only two years ago. It
is a single muffler SS pipe, instead of dual muffler. I simply want
less weight on the car. The OEM rubber TIC finally cracked and I
replaced with Banzai aluminum TIC with K&N cone filter. FD fuel pump
installed, as well as ECU upgrade. It how has Rtek v1.5, s/n 1235.
These last set of upgrades push the boost to a bit over 7 psi. You
can figure out the new HP figures.

With all these works, the car still pass NY/NJ emission test. Most
recent record of NY (NJ 2006) emission test were

             2004     2005     2006
HC        0.73      0.78      102
CO       10.7        9.7      0.33
NOx      1.1        0.76     283
CO2                              14.2
O2                                 0.4

The car did not have perfect interior to begin with and I wanted to
upgrade this piece last. It has the OEM interior but didn't have
glove box or rear storage bins. The car has a Autopower roll bar. I
added VDO boost gauge and Autometer fuel mixture meter on the A-
piller. The logicon has a behavior problem, so does driver side
window switches. Both units can be rebuilt.

The sunroof panel begins to bubble and I have spare part for that.
Cosmetic upgrades were hood-scoop and left front pop-up light cover.
The A/C compressor was new and cold. However when I installed the
unit, I was ¼ lbs short on R-12 freon. The 7 is year round kept in
garage and covered and it was my summer "fun" car. It was used 3
times per year at auto-x simply to meet Mazda Motorsport team support
requirement.

Problem(s) – aside from the interior I had disclosed above. Recently
the car developed strange idle problem. The low idle is fluctuating
between 1k to 1.5k. It was like someone pumping the accelerator.

Vehicle current mileage - 135009
Current location – Central NJ (in the garage of cause)

Reason selling – like others on the forum I am no exception. Life
changed -> got married having kids. These days I am spending more
time at Home Depot, Babe R US instead of the garage under the hood.

The car is AWSOME project car if you choose to continue my work or
strip it down for the high-end parts, its all upto you. Your purchase
comes with, JDM TMIC, some spare parts, A032 tires and all kinds of
manuals. I have folder full of paper trail on this vehicle. As in
price, how about everything you see here for $5000? I am baseing the
price on what will cost someone to get all these performance parts on
the net, piece by piece. You can make me an offer as well....

Please email me at samnt650@... for details. Photos of the car is
located at Flickr and I will continue update these photos over time.
If you want to see something specific, please contact me. THANK YOU

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9978359@N07/

I forgot to mention, the car had new rotors put in around Oct/Nov
last year, with Hawk HP10 Front, Blue Rear. So anyone want to try
his/her luck on the track, its ready to go

Details?

Dale
"Just little ol' me, Underdog"

----- Original Message -----
From: "tim4me_2001" <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
To: <mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 12:54 PM
Subject: [Mazda Rx 7 Club] RX-7 GSL-SE For Sale


> May be the nicest 1985 GSL-SE never driven in snow seldom driven in
> rain garaged when not in use,,,,
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

May be the nicest 1985 GSL-SE never driven in snow seldom driven in
rain garaged when not in use,,,,

Check out www.coastfab.com/ultralights.html

might be a bit pricey but the racers seem to like 'em.



--- In mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Weinstock" <weinstro@...> wrote:
>
> >I'm still looking for mufflers for my son's '88 GTU. I've installed a
> >rebuilt & ported motor, Racing Beat header and presilencer with cheap
> >turbo mufflers. (((((TOO LOUD!!))))) The Racing Beat mufflers are out
> >of reach at $225 each. Any ideas? Has anyone tried Flowmaster
> >HushPower? Anybody have any suggestions?
>
> Well, Racing Beat is pretty much the best there is for these engines. You
> might have luck with Borla. Other makes will either be short lived, or weigh
> A LOT. My GTUs has a set of Sebring mufflers. These drone quite a bit and
> the two mufflers with Y-pipe weighs about 50 lbs.
>
> You might want to check out the Mazdatrix website. They have a very nice FAQ
> on this and many other topics.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rob
>

>I'm still looking for mufflers for my son's '88 GTU. I've installed a
>rebuilt & ported motor, Racing Beat header and presilencer with cheap
>turbo mufflers. (((((TOO LOUD!!))))) The Racing Beat mufflers are out
>of reach at $225 each. Any ideas? Has anyone tried Flowmaster
>HushPower? Anybody have any suggestions?

Well, Racing Beat is pretty much the best there is for these engines. You
might have luck with Borla. Other makes will either be short lived, or weigh
A LOT. My GTUs has a set of Sebring mufflers. These drone quite a bit and
the two mufflers with Y-pipe weighs about 50 lbs.

You might want to check out the Mazdatrix website. They have a very nice FAQ
on this and many other topics.

Regards,

Rob

I'm still looking for mufflers for my son's '88 GTU. I've installed a
rebuilt & ported motor, Racing Beat header and presilencer with cheap
turbo mufflers. (((((TOO LOUD!!))))) The Racing Beat mufflers are out
of reach at $225 each. Any ideas? Has anyone tried Flowmaster
HushPower? Anybody have any suggestions?
Ken

The new year is upon us. New Year's Eve is a time to celebrate the end
of 2006 and the start of 2007. Balloon drops, champagne, music, and
kissing that special someone...

...then the sun comes up, and many of us have thoughts like "how much
did I drink?" or "who are you?!?" (LOL)

Naturally, that means it's time for the HANGOVER RUN! January 1, 2007
marks the TENTH year of this annual event. It was supposed to end in
2006 with Ortega Highway falling prey to CalTrans. But, happily,
Ortega is OPEN and CLEAR for 2007. So, like all great divas who have a
"Farewell Tour" and then come back one more time (Cher, Celine,
Whitney, Barbra) -- so to does the Hangover Run.

Making it's truly final performance, come and drive HANGOVER RUN X!
This is the first and original New Year's Mazda Drive, always free
from rain and ALWAYS a joint SOCALM-SDMC event along with SoCal7s, San
Diego RX Club, MOCC, and any other Mazda enthusiasts who want to join
in the fun. In years past we've had all kinds of Mazdas, from new
RX-8s, Mazda3s, and Mazda6s, to a classic Cosmo, RX-3, and a rotary
powered Mazda truck! Plus a smattering of others, like the S2000 Club,
the Probe Owner's Club, a couple of Ferraris, and this year I'm
inviting my Scion friends. The drive hit a high water mark in 2001
with 133 cars, a Southern California record.

The drive starts, as usual, in San Juan Capistrano @ noon (one year I
started it much earlier and wow -- that year I truly DID have a
hangover!). We then take Ortega Highway over to a bathroom break at
the Lake Elsinore Marina ($1/car facility use fee + a great photo op).
Then we head into the hills for some incredible scenic roads,
including a 27 percent downgrade (which most of us first experienced
on this run)! The drive ends in Temecula at approximately 4pm with
food. **Note** Some of the roads are kind of rough, so lowered cars
beware! I'm leading with Kenzo (my '94 Miata), which is one of the
lowest cars in both SOCALM and SDMC, so if *I* can do it -- you can
too! Just watch the instructions for warnings and you'll be fine.

This is truly, really, finally it: the LAST Hangover Run. Don't miss
it. Please pass this email on to any other forums/email lists where it
may be of interest.

January 1, 2007
Noon
Orange County Health Services
27512 Calle Arroyo, San Juan Capistrano, 92675

Host: Zack, 714-686-5398, racerzack@...
Note: $1 per car facility use fee at rest stop
No RSVP required. Just show up and have FUN!!!

Directions:
Exit Interstate 5 at Ortega Highway (74) and head inland (from the 5
South, turn left). Go 0.2 miles and turn right at the light onto
Rancho Viejo. At the dead end/light, turn left onto Calle Arroyo. Go
another 0.2 miles and turn right into Orange County Health Services.
If you get to a stop sign, you went too far. The parking lot may
appear small at first, but bear to the right and you'll see it extends
a long way behind some small office buildings.

>My son is 300 miles away at college and he just replaced a stuck
>caliper on the right rear of his '88 GTU. Now he's having trouble
>getting the pedal to firm up. Each caliper has 2 bleed fittings, is
>there a trick to bleeding the brakes on this car?

Not really. Bleed the top one first.

Regards,

Rob

My son is 300 miles away at college and he just replaced a stuck
caliper on the right rear of his '88 GTU. Now he's having trouble
getting the pedal to firm up. Each caliper has 2 bleed fittings, is
there a trick to bleeding the brakes on this car?
Thanks,
Ken

Hangover Run X

Date: January 1, 2007 (Monday)
Time: Noon, rain OR shine!
Place: Orange County Health Services
27512 Calle Arroyo, San Juan Capistrano
Host: K. Zack Broadbent, 714-686-5398, racerzack@...
Cost: $1 facility use fee in Lake Elsinore

Details:
It's been 9 years. In 2006, it looked like it would come to an end. 9
years of car enthusiasts welcoming the new year with a fun, scenic
drive through the hills of Orange, San Diego, and Riverside counties.
Primarily Mazdas, but also a smattering of Hondas, Nissans, Fords,
Chevrolets, and yes -- even a Ferrari -- have come together for this
legendary drive. 2000 marked the high point, with the Millennium
Hangover and 133 cars.

But then, with Ortega Highway scheduled to be closed for refurbishing,
the drive went into retirement. It made a final bow on January 1,
2006; it's ninth performance, never to return.

We forgot one thing: the government never operates on time.

According to CalTrans, Ortega Highway's project will resume starting
late January and go into February. When the sun dawns on 2007, Ortega
will be open and ready. So, why not bring the total number of
Hangovers to an even 10? Nine just felt, well... incomplete.

So, like Cher, Barbra, Whitney, Celine, and Tina, this Diva of Drives
is coming out of "retirement" for one more fabulous performance! Rain
OR Shine! (but it's NEVER rained us out. NEVER!) We'll trace our path
along Ortega Highway and once again pause in Lake Elsinore for an
awesome photo op. Then, we'll continue onward to the 27% downgrade
which made this run famous. Dipping and curving through scenic avocado
and orange groves, we'll finish in Temecula around 4:30pm for an early
dinner. (We'll end near a bunch of restaurants, letting everyone go on
their own to whichever place they prefer.)

And yes, this time it really WILL be the FINAL performance, making it
a DECADE of casual new year's driving fun. You won't want to miss it!
Can we top the run's record of 133 cars? Wouldn't THAT be a great
finish?! ;-)

Feel free to spread the word to other Mazda forums!

Directions:
Exit Interstate 5 at Ortega Highway (74) and head inland (from the 5
South, turn left). Go 0.2 miles and turn right at the light onto
Rancho Viejo. At the dead end/light, turn left onto Calle Arroyo. Go
another 0.2 miles and turn right into Orange County Health Services.
If you get to a stop sign, you went too far. The parking lot may
appear small at first, but bear to the right and you'll see it extends
a long way behind some small office buildings.

Wondering if anyone can recommend set of spring for S4 T2 with Koni and Ground
Control?  My car also has Racing Beats Swaybar and Adj end links.  THANKS
________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL.  Most comprehensive set of free safety and security
tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free
AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> > OK, I'm not trying to start a fight. I'm asking because I really
>don't
> > know alot about these cars. What is the best model of RX-7 to buy
> > (cheap)? What are the prices that i can exspect to pay for a
>drivable
> > car that isn't rusted out? I live in St. Paul MN and rust is a major
> > problem after 3-5 years...

Well, the first gen cars are now at least 21 years old, and the third gen
cars are at least 11 years old.

Kelly's Blue Book will probably be as accurate a guide as any. You can check
traderonline to get a sense of what sellers are asking. Condition rules --
expect to pay a premium for a cream puff.

1st Gen:
- small, light weight car
- ~110hp
- usually carbureted
- GSL-SE has larger, fuel injected motor (135hp)
- all had solid axle rear suspension

2nd Gen:
- designed influenced by Porsche 944
- Larger "13B" motor (146hp; 160hp for 89-91)
- Semi-trailing arm independent rear suspension
- Much heavier than 1st Gen
- Wide number of options (convertible, turbo-charged, base, sport, luxury,
2+2, etc.)
- "sport" suspension is more desirable
- Turbo II is/was a reasonably fast car (182 hp; 200 hp for 89-91)

3rd Gen:
- Sexy design
- Tighter interior than 2nd Gen
- Blistering performance (handlling and ~255hp)
- Tarnished reputation of reliability
- Fully independent suspension, with lots of factory supplied suspension
tweaks

If you want a turbocharged RX-7, try to find one that is "stock". Be sure to
verify that all electrical switches operate correctly, as these tend to
break and are expensive to replace.

Regards,

Rob

--- In mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com, "whitehorze" <Darylg1532@...>
wrote:
>
> OK, I'm not trying to start a fight. I'm asking because I really
don't
> know alot about these cars. What is the best model of RX-7 to buy
> (cheap)? What are the prices that i can exspect to pay for a
drivable
> car that isn't rusted out? I live in St. Paul MN and rust is a major
> problem after 3-5 years...
>
>  Thanks...DG
>I Think the first generation RX-7 is a beautiful car fun to drive and
reliable..try and find aa car with 13b engine an 85 GSL-SE is a great
example of the first gen car and is a real classic..Good luck finding
a nice one...TRH

I own 4 of these magnificent beasts. 2 1990 turbo II's, 1 1991
convertible and a 1993 twin turbo. I would stick with the older 2nd
generation cars. Don't get me wrong, my 93 3rd gen is FAST, but they
did a real cheap job on the interior. The plastic and rubber used for
interior parts SUCKS!!!! It's already falling apart, while my 3 2nd
gens still look brand new. Honestly the only good thing I can say about
the 93 and newer cars is the haul ass and look sweet, but once again,
just about EVERYTHING on this car was done as cheap as possible. If you
like to go topless, go for an 89 or newer convertible (better engine on
the newer years) plus it is the quietest convertible you'll ever drive,
hardly any wind noise when the top is down. The only down side to the
vert is it is not nearly as fast as the turbo II. If you look around my
state (california) you could pick up a convertible for $2500 - $6000.
Good luck finding a turbo II as I have only seen a very small # of them
around, but if you do find one, you could prob get it for about $4000.
Unless you find one at auction. Got my 1991 for $1000 cuz it wouldn't
start, turned out to be the main fuse. Changed it out and it started
right up. Also got one of my 90 turbo II's at auction for $1650, some
other minor problem. Anyway, my vote is 2nd generation, just becuase
they were built way better! And as far as rust goes, all I can say is
keep it in the garage!!!




--- In mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com, "whitehorze" <Darylg1532@...>
wrote:
>
> OK, I'm not trying to start a fight. I'm asking because I really
don't
> know alot about these cars. What is the best model of RX-7 to buy
> (cheap)? What are the prices that i can exspect to pay for a drivable
> car that isn't rusted out? I live in St. Paul MN and rust is a major
> problem after 3-5 years...
>
>  Thanks...DG
>

OK, I'm not trying to start a fight. I'm asking because I really don't
know alot about these cars. What is the best model of RX-7 to buy
(cheap)? What are the prices that i can exspect to pay for a drivable
car that isn't rusted out? I live in St. Paul MN and rust is a major
problem after 3-5 years...

  Thanks...DG

I have a 91 vert with a slipping auto and I have a wrecked 88
straight shift car. Has anyone done an auto to straight swap and if so
what pitfalls will I encounter, I.E. computor etc.
    Thanks, Ted

Hoping someone can help me out.. On a S4 T2 Air Control Valve, there
are two sensor looking objects. One is mounted facing forward of motor
and other mounted on the side of the valve. Can anyone tell me what
they do and how do they affect the vehicle power delivery.

THANK YOU
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM.
All on demand. Always Free.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for the reply guys. I found a replacement. Press out the old one and
install a new one with retainer clips on the inside and a grease fitting. It is
made by Rockford stock number 430-10A, should be obtainable from any real parts
house. Thanks again, Ted

d_t37 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:          --- In
mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com, Ted Duncan <awpptdt2@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Rob Weinstock <weinstro@...> wrote: > The front universal
joint in my 91 vert went bad and I am told it
> >can not be replaced. The solution is that I have to buy a new drive
> >shaft from Mazda at $450 plus. There has to be a better way, please
> >tell me about it. Thanks, Ted
>
> Any shop that does driveshaft work should be able to do this for
about $350.
> You could try Mazdatrix website. Otherwise, you're looking at an
unproven
> junkyard part.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rob

Ahhhhh Rob,

You're forgetting about people like "Drivetrain Industries" in
socal. They make an aluminium driveshaft for all models of the RX-7.
They used my '87 T-II for the prototype. The thing has massive
U-joints, is made of aluminum and the shipping weight was only 13 LBS.
I asked the guy if he wanted me to try and break it and he just
laughed at me! If I remember right, the price was around $350. .And
yes light rotating mass includes the driveshaft. Ten minutes after
installing mine, it got away from me and I ended up stalled across two
lanes of freeway looking out the passenger window at a poopload of
cars coming at me. Oh, and the huge Spicer U-joints are easily replacable.

Dale Thomas
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
  Everyone is raving about the  all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In mazdarx7club@yahoogroups.com, Ted Duncan <awpptdt2@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Rob Weinstock <weinstro@...> wrote:          > The front universal
joint in my 91 vert went bad and I am told it
> >can not be replaced. The solution is that I have to buy a new drive
> >shaft from Mazda at $450 plus. There has to be a better way, please
> >tell me about it. Thanks, Ted
>
> Any shop that does driveshaft work should be able to do this for
about $350.
> You could try Mazdatrix website. Otherwise, you're looking at an
unproven
> junkyard part.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rob

    Ahhhhh Rob,

      You're forgetting about people like "Drivetrain Industries" in
socal. They make an aluminium driveshaft for all models of the RX-7.
They used my '87 T-II for the prototype. The thing has massive
U-joints, is made of aluminum and the shipping weight was only 13 LBS.
  I asked the guy if he wanted me to try and break it and he just
laughed at me! If I remember right, the price was around $350. .And
yes light rotating mass includes the driveshaft. Ten minutes after
installing mine, it got away from me and I ended up stalled across two
lanes of freeway looking out the passenger window at a poopload of
cars coming at me. Oh, and the huge Spicer U-joints are easily replacable.

                Dale Thomas
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