I got the cover but having trouble,book is 58 pages,will try later.
Paul

I'll have to get my wifes help for that. Paul
--- Jim Dix <jdix6@...> wrote:
> Any way to scan them & put them on the "files"
> section?
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Jacobson" <re5s@...>
> To: <maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:35 AM
> Subject: [maxwellbriscoeowners] Parts Book
>
>
> I have a Jan. 1,1909 No. 3 parts book with
> pictures for 2 cylinder
> cars.I can copy pages for you if that would
> help you to make a
> part.Paul
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
> to:
>
maxwellbriscoeowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>


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Any way to scan them & put them on the "files" section?
Jim

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Jacobson" <re5s@...>
To: <maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:35 AM
Subject: [maxwellbriscoeowners] Parts Book


I have a Jan. 1,1909 No. 3 parts book with pictures for 2 cylinder
cars.I can copy pages for you if that would help you to make a
part.Paul



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
maxwellbriscoeowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

I have a Jan. 1,1909 No. 3 parts book with pictures for 2 cylinder
cars.I can copy pages for you if that would help you to make a
part.Paul

There's one on e-bay item number 2201647281. This is the one without
the timing info, at least I couldn't find it.

Hi Bob,I guess I'll have to wait for mine to
carbon up. Thanks Paul Jacobson
--- Bob Benz <rtbenz@...> wrote:
> Paul:
>
> The valve chamber plugs are supposed to be
> brass.  There is a special
> wrench that is used to tighten them.
> Reproductions of this wrench are
> available.  If you don't have one you can make
> it out of 1-1/2" bar
> stock.  Mill flats to form a square that fits
> in the plug, then use a
> pipe wrench on the bar.  The original tool has
> a 12" long handle.
>
> I do not think the original cars had gaskets on
> these plugs, but unless
> the surfaces are in perfect condition, you'll
> probably need gaskets
> now.  I use one of those exhaust ring gaskets
> that crush when
> installed.  They are metal with a asbestos like
> filler.  They MUST have
> an ID that just fits over the threads.  If they
> are larger, the flange
> on the plugs will bend or crack.  If they are
> already bent or cracked
> the plugs will have to be replaced.
>
> Anyhow, just tighten them well, and then
> retighten them several times
> during your first run as the engine heats up.
> In time they will carbon
> up on the inside and will stay tight.
>
> Happy Maxwelling
> Bob Benz
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Paul Jacobson wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone have a way to keep the valve
> chamber plugs tight? Mine
> > are brass, is that the problem. Paul
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
> to:
> >
>
maxwellbriscoeowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>


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Paul:

The valve chamber plugs are supposed to be brass.  There is a special
wrench that is used to tighten them.  Reproductions of this wrench are
available.  If you don't have one you can make it out of 1-1/2" bar
stock.  Mill flats to form a square that fits in the plug, then use a
pipe wrench on the bar.  The original tool has a 12" long handle.

I do not think the original cars had gaskets on these plugs, but unless
the surfaces are in perfect condition, you'll probably need gaskets
now.  I use one of those exhaust ring gaskets that crush when
installed.  They are metal with a asbestos like filler.  They MUST have
an ID that just fits over the threads.  If they are larger, the flange
on the plugs will bend or crack.  If they are already bent or cracked
the plugs will have to be replaced.

Anyhow, just tighten them well, and then retighten them several times
during your first run as the engine heats up.  In time they will carbon
up on the inside and will stay tight.

Happy Maxwelling
Bob Benz






Paul Jacobson wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a way to keep the valve chamber plugs tight? Mine
> are brass, is that the problem. Paul
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> maxwellbriscoeowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Does anyone have a way to keep the valve chamber plugs tight? Mine
are brass, is that the problem. Paul

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Richardson"
<chuckier@e...> wrote:
> Thanks for the information.

Partly to stur up some conversation.......

Paul's method is pretty much what's in the owner's manual.
There are two reprints, the best was a "1909" done by Clymer, I think
it's out of print, but they show up on e-bay every so often.
There is a second one with a light blue cover that also shows up on e-
bay. There was one a few weeks ago. Not as complete. Looks like it's
an earlier version of the manual for two cylinder cars only. Problem
is I can't find the timing procedure that's in the Clymer one!

Thanks for the information.

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Richardson"
<chuckier@e...> wrote:
> I have a battery also which I can run from.    First: with bat. off
pull up on crank to compression,looking for TC mark on top of
flywheel,mark it with something white,next take plugs out, leave them
on wires and grounded,next turn on bat.,put spark lever forward,with
crank turn engine 2 revolutions, listen for coil to buss when white
mark is passed top  about 1 or 2 in. This is about 15 deg.retarded
for starting.Repeat with spark lever back, coil should buss when
white mark is 1 1/2 in, before top of flywheel. This is about 15 deg.
advance for running engine 1000RPM. Maybe 20 MPH. To change timming
you must change linkage to the lever.THis has been difficult for me
to put on paper,I hope I have not left out something, but with plugs
out it is safe. Paul

I have a battery also which I can run from.

Hi, I'm trying to think of a way you could time
your car without a light,but have not come up
with one yet. Paul  P.S. cars with batterys are
much easyer. --- Chuck Richardson
<chuckier@...> wrote:
> It's a '11 AB with Splitdorf coil and Model H
> magneto.
>
>


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It's a '11 AB with Splitdorf coil and Model H magneto.

Hi Chuck, If you have a 2 cylinder Maxwell I can
help, let me know. Paul
--- Chuck Richardson <chuckier@...>
wrote:
> --- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com,
> "Paul Jacobson"
> <re5s@y...> wrote:
> > How about a new thead? I have set my mag. so
> when it comes off the
> > impluse I have about 15 deg. advance, is that
> too much? Paul
>
> Being new to Maxwell's, I'd appreciate any tips
> on how the timing is
> set in the first place.
>
>


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--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Jacobson"
<re5s@y...> wrote:
> How about a new thead? I have set my mag. so when it comes off the
> impluse I have about 15 deg. advance, is that too much? Paul

Being new to Maxwell's, I'd appreciate any tips on how the timing is
set in the first place.

How about a new thead? I have set my mag. so when it comes off the
impluse I have about 15 deg. advance, is that too much? Paul

Hello Maxwell owners,
It's great to see a site where Maxwell is spoken!  Hopefully someday
we will have a designated time and date for a chat sessions.
Total loss oil system
While it is the inherit right that all Maxwells leave their mark
here are some suggestions that may help control the loss of oil from
your two cylinder car. To avoid unnecessary oiling after the engine
has been shut off we find it very useful to drill a very small hole
(.030 + or -) in the top of the oil plug on your oil tank.  It is
very important to make this a very small hole so the running  engine
can maintain a positive air pressure in the tank.  Once the engine
is shut off this hole relieves the positive pressure and the oil
shuts off sooner.  This relieves the need to unscrew the oil tank
cap when the engine is shutdown. We have installed oil seals on the
front and rear main bearings of the engine which seems to help a
lot.  We also machined a 1/8 inch groove in the case around the
shift bar at the rear of the engine.  We then installed a quad seal
which greatly reduced the amount of oil coming from that point.  We
then removed the small drain plug from the bottom rear portion of
the crankcase and installed a petcock with approximately two inches
of copper tubing soldiered to the inside.  This allowed us to drain
off all the excessive oil collected in the transmission while
maintaining the normal oil level that is needed for safe operation.
These modifications will not stop all of the oil from leaving your
Maxwell but it will greatly reduce the amount of oil left on the
road or your shop floor and will give you an opportunity to drain it
when and where you want it. The question has been asked what type of
oil and how often should the drippers drip? Obviously oil is
reasonably cheap and to much is better then not enough!  Here in
California where the temperature is mild we prefer to use a good
grade 30 wt. oil however 50 wt. will also work just fine.  When we
are running and under way I like see a rate of one drip every five
seconds. When first starting the engine or climbing long hot hills I
will increase my oilers one drip every two seconds.  I'm sure if you
ask 50 Maxwell owners you'll probably get 51 different answers.
Some will even say that the only purpose of the oilers is to give
the passenger a purpose and the driver something to talk about.
Tim Simonsma (Three Tons of Brass) ' 11AB

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Richardson"
<chuckier@e...> wrote:
> I'm rebuilding the rear end of my AB.  I'm looking for as much
> information, especially the technical specifications for the pinion
> gear, ring gear, ring gear plate, differential gears and can, axles
> and the various
> bearings.  I have suggestions for replacement modern bearings, but
> would appreciate the old bearing requirements and tolerances if
anyone
> knows them.  Thanks.    You can get answer to your question by
talking to machinist after telling him how much you will be
driving.If you are a perfectionist tell him that too.Remember that
you will be driving slow and things do not have to be as perfect as
the modern cars.Paul

I just got home from a long slow parade with my HC. I had to oil the
clutch at 1 drop per sec. to make it operate smoothly. Does anyone
know how the prevent syphoning the oil tank dry.

I'm rebuilding the rear end of my AB.  I'm looking for as much
information, especially the technical specifications for the pinion
gear, ring gear, ring gear plate, differential gears and can, axles
and the various
bearings.  I have suggestions for replacement modern bearings, but
would appreciate the old bearing requirements and tolerances if anyone
knows them.  Thanks.

The "14" Pan I have does not have any paint on it. By the way I have
all four fenders and the hood for the car. Does antone need them?

I'm fortunate to have an original engine pan for my AA, in fact I've
been welding stress cracks in it today.
I'm concerned that it is a place for oil and gas to collect. Several
people have advised against using it for the fire hazard.
Thanks for the help.
Jim


--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, Paul Jacobson
<re5s@y...> wrote:
> Hi, Maxwell used an engine belly pan in 1914, you
> might try that for your dripping problem. Paul

Hi, Maxwell used an engine belly pan in 1914, you
might try that for your dripping problem. Paul
--- JIm Dix <jdix6@...> wrote:
> Good to "hear" someone posting!
> Let us know your secret about lubing a car with
> a total loss system.
> I stopped running around the neighborhood last
> summer because there
> was a trail leading to my driveway.
> One of the frustrations I've had is that when
> the engine and oil is
> cold the oil naturally flows slower. If you
> adjust the oilers when
> the engine & oil is cold the oil flows more
> when it warms up. The oil
> thins out from the rising underhood
> temperature.
> I'm using 30 weight oil in a '10 AA. What are
> other folks using? Do
> you adjust the oilers cold or warm, I'm afraid
> if it's done warm it
> will be starved for oil when you start it and
> it needs it most.
>
>
> --- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com,
> Paul Jacobson
> <re5s@y...> wrote:
> > Hi Maxwell owners,I have just fininshed
> restoring
> > a 1908 HC. I did all of the work myself,and
> > willing to help others.I ran the New London
> run
> > and have a interesting tip on oiling the
> engine
> > if you have any problems. I am looking
> forward to
> > talkig to other Maxwell owners. Paul Jacobson
> > 2186305517 Im in Mn.
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web
> site design software
> > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>


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Nice artical in the Sept-Oct Antique Automobile about Maxwell Juniors
by Tom Reese.
He mentions "Maxwell Junior #389" adding more still to my confusion
of Maxwell serial numbers.
Talked at length last week with Dave Ridenour at the WPC Museum. I
had asked him if they had any documentation of Maxwell numbers. His
answer was they have little on Maxwell and what they have is not
organized. He did go thru 3 boxes of information and didn't find
anything that helps.
I have Vern Campbell's registry and the serial numbers don't make
sense. They seem to be assigned as the cars went out the door without
regard to model. Can anyone help?
By the way, your AAca dues notice was in the plastic. :^)

Hi, I dont have a fix for your hot, cold problem
but I put a white background behind the sight
glass and a mirror  so I can see it by looking
though the steering wheel. Good to here from
someone. Paul
--- JIm Dix <jdix6@...> wrote:
> Good to "hear" someone posting!
> Let us know your secret about lubing a car with
> a total loss system.
> I stopped running around the neighborhood last
> summer because there
> was a trail leading to my driveway.
> One of the frustrations I've had is that when
> the engine and oil is
> cold the oil naturally flows slower. If you
> adjust the oilers when
> the engine & oil is cold the oil flows more
> when it warms up. The oil
> thins out from the rising underhood
> temperature.
> I'm using 30 weight oil in a '10 AA. What are
> other folks using? Do
> you adjust the oilers cold or warm, I'm afraid
> if it's done warm it
> will be starved for oil when you start it and
> it needs it most.
>
>
> --- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com,
> Paul Jacobson
> <re5s@y...> wrote:
> > Hi Maxwell owners,I have just fininshed
> restoring
> > a 1908 HC. I did all of the work myself,and
> > willing to help others.I ran the New London
> run
> > and have a interesting tip on oiling the
> engine
> > if you have any problems. I am looking
> forward to
> > talkig to other Maxwell owners. Paul Jacobson
> > 2186305517 Im in Mn.
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web
> site design software
> > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>


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Good to "hear" someone posting!
Let us know your secret about lubing a car with a total loss system.
I stopped running around the neighborhood last summer because there
was a trail leading to my driveway.
One of the frustrations I've had is that when the engine and oil is
cold the oil naturally flows slower. If you adjust the oilers when
the engine & oil is cold the oil flows more when it warms up. The oil
thins out from the rising underhood temperature.
I'm using 30 weight oil in a '10 AA. What are other folks using? Do
you adjust the oilers cold or warm, I'm afraid if it's done warm it
will be starved for oil when you start it and it needs it most.


--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, Paul Jacobson
<re5s@y...> wrote:
> Hi Maxwell owners,I have just fininshed restoring
> a 1908 HC. I did all of the work myself,and
> willing to help others.I ran the New London run
> and have a interesting tip on oiling the engine
> if you have any problems. I am looking forward to
> talkig to other Maxwell owners. Paul Jacobson
> 2186305517 Im in Mn.
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com

Hi Maxwell owners,I have just fininshed restoring
a 1908 HC. I did all of the work myself,and
willing to help others.I ran the New London run
and have a interesting tip on oiling the engine
if you have any problems. I am looking forward to
talkig to other Maxwell owners. Paul Jacobson
2186305517 Im in Mn.

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