Hi all, First time post here.

I just acquired a 1911 AB that has been in climate control storage for about 10
years.  Did the usual to get it going…full fuel system service, complete flush
of the jugs and radiator (all clean to begin with) and loaded it up with some
oil.   The car kicked right off and runs perfect and is quiet.   Only problem is
it runs hot.   The two upper hoses of course get hot first, but the lower ones
are still cold, even though uppers are still very hot.  The top of radiator is
also very hot, but those bottom hoses are just not getting hot.  Something is
causing the coolant not to flow.   All coolant hoses are new and I flushed the
heads and radiator backwards and forwards several times with water and
compressed air.

I don't feel the engine is running hotter than it should, just its no thermo
siphoning.

Thoughts?

Tom
401.651.2295

a question to ask, is what are you pulling with? truck, car? hauling a light
weight car, i would a recommend a trailer that is rated at 7000 gtw dual axle
with breaks. im located in canfield ohio, just outside youngstown. the trailer i
pull with was bought from a dealer locally.

------Original Message------
From: JanA <modelt1916@...>
To: <maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Sun, Nov 15, 2009 02:41 PM
Subject: [maxwellbriscoeowners] Re: recomendations on a trailer for the 1908
Maxwell

Bill:
This trailer is for Laurella Lederer's Maxwell.  I wouldn't get rid of my wells
fargo.  It currently has my 1923 Moon sitting in it.  I also have a light weight
aluminum trailer for my Model T but she needs one to take her Maxwell to events
and tours.  You are absolutely correct about a closed trailer being more secure.

I hope to see your Maxwell some day since you are just down the road from me.  I
live in Ft. Thomas ky across the river from Cincinnati.
Thanks for the advice.
Jan

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "whjco1" <whjco@...> wrote:
>
> I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to dump your enclosed trailer.  While the
Maxwell is a pretty light car, it's still a major piece of mind to have a
portable garage in which to park the car while you're on the road.  It doesn't
take long for a no count thief to take a thousand dollars worth of brass off of
a car that's sitting on an open trailer.
>
> Bill J., Lexington, KY
>
> --- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "JanA" <modelt1916@> wrote:
> >
> > We are looking for recommendations for a trailer for a 1908 Maxwell.  I have
a Well Fargo trailer which is to big for this car.  What do most members use to
move a small car.  I am not looking for a enclosed trailer as the distances will
be short.  Does anyone have one for sale in the Kentucky, Ohio area.
> > Thanks Jan
> >
>

Bill:
The smoke is coming from the tail pipe and under the car.  The car has a hole in
the muffler and the cut out is stuck partially open.  I hope to close up the
muffler and get the cutout freed up.  If I have another cut out I am going to
replace it for her.  As you suspected some of the oil was also coming from a run
down from the front of the engine bolts not being tight.

It is buring way to much oil but I think part of that problem may be that the
petcock has carbon in it not allowing it to drain.

Thanks for the advice.
Jan

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "whjco1" <whjco@...> wrote:
>
> Jan,
>
> From your pictures, it's hard to tell if the smoke is coming from out of the
exhaust pipe or from under the car.  If it starts smoking like this almost
immediately after starting the car and the smoke is coming out of the tailpipe,
then there's some serious amounts of oil that are getting into the combustion
chamber and I'd want to get to the bottom of the problem.
>
> If it's oil running out the overflow on the back of the transmission and onto
the muffler, then your oil delivery rate may be way too high and the oil feed
rate has already been addressed in other posts.
>
> The only time our '09 LD has ever made this much smoke was when I was driving
it up a really steep grade which caused the oil to run out of the transmission
and onto the muffler.  I have since made a sheet metal shield that clamps to the
exhaust pipe that keeps oil from falling directly onto the muffler.
>
> When operating normally, we don't have any smoke with our Maxwell.  However,
when we park it we don't let it stay in one place for over 5 minutes at a time
so that the EPA can't catch up with the Maxwell Valdez that's causing so many
land-based oil slicks. (-:
>
> Bill J., Lexington, KY
>
> --- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "JanA" <modelt1916@> wrote:
> >
> > Please take a look at my photos (Laurela car)and you can see what our
problem is.  How far back can we cut the oilers back.  I drained each cyc.
before starting and nothing came out.  I cleaned the petcocks to make sure they
were clear.  Any advice is appreciated.
> > Have a fantastic day.
> >
>

Bill:
This trailer is for Laurella Lederer's Maxwell.  I wouldn't get rid of my wells
fargo.  It currently has my 1923 Moon sitting in it.  I also have a light weight
aluminum trailer for my Model T but she needs one to take her Maxwell to events
and tours.  You are absolutely correct about a closed trailer being more secure.

I hope to see your Maxwell some day since you are just down the road from me.  I
live in Ft. Thomas ky across the river from Cincinnati.
Thanks for the advice.
Jan

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "whjco1" <whjco@...> wrote:
>
> I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to dump your enclosed trailer.  While the
Maxwell is a pretty light car, it's still a major piece of mind to have a
portable garage in which to park the car while you're on the road.  It doesn't
take long for a no count thief to take a thousand dollars worth of brass off of
a car that's sitting on an open trailer.
>
> Bill J., Lexington, KY
>
> --- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "JanA" <modelt1916@> wrote:
> >
> > We are looking for recommendations for a trailer for a 1908 Maxwell.  I have
a Well Fargo trailer which is to big for this car.  What do most members use to
move a small car.  I am not looking for a enclosed trailer as the distances will
be short.  Does anyone have one for sale in the Kentucky, Ohio area.
> > Thanks Jan
> >
>

I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to dump your enclosed trailer.  While the
Maxwell is a pretty light car, it's still a major piece of mind to have a
portable garage in which to park the car while you're on the road.  It doesn't
take long for a no count thief to take a thousand dollars worth of brass off of
a car that's sitting on an open trailer.

Bill J., Lexington, KY

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "JanA" <modelt1916@...> wrote:
>
> We are looking for recommendations for a trailer for a 1908 Maxwell.  I have a
Well Fargo trailer which is to big for this car.  What do most members use to
move a small car.  I am not looking for a enclosed trailer as the distances will
be short.  Does anyone have one for sale in the Kentucky, Ohio area.
> Thanks Jan
>

Jan,

From your pictures, it's hard to tell if the smoke is coming from out of the
exhaust pipe or from under the car.  If it starts smoking like this almost
immediately after starting the car and the smoke is coming out of the tailpipe,
then there's some serious amounts of oil that are getting into the combustion
chamber and I'd want to get to the bottom of the problem.

If it's oil running out the overflow on the back of the transmission and onto
the muffler, then your oil delivery rate may be way too high and the oil feed
rate has already been addressed in other posts.

The only time our '09 LD has ever made this much smoke was when I was driving it
up a really steep grade which caused the oil to run out of the transmission and
onto the muffler.  I have since made a sheet metal shield that clamps to the
exhaust pipe that keeps oil from falling directly onto the muffler.

When operating normally, we don't have any smoke with our Maxwell.  However,
when we park it we don't let it stay in one place for over 5 minutes at a time
so that the EPA can't catch up with the Maxwell Valdez that's causing so many
land-based oil slicks. (-:

Bill J., Lexington, KY

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "JanA" <modelt1916@...> wrote:
>
> Please take a look at my photos (Laurela car)and you can see what our problem
is.  How far back can we cut the oilers back.  I drained each cyc. before
starting and nothing came out.  I cleaned the petcocks to make sure they were
clear.  Any advice is appreciated.
> Have a fantastic day.
>

We are looking for recommendations for a trailer for a 1908 Maxwell.  I have a
Well Fargo trailer which is to big for this car.  What do most members use to
move a small car.  I am not looking for a enclosed trailer as the distances will
be short.  Does anyone have one for sale in the Kentucky, Ohio area.
Thanks Jan

Tim:
We have progressed past killing mosquitoes and have moved on to small children. 
I appreciate all the time you have taken on this question.  I drained the oil
but did not purge it after the engine started running.  Have a great weekend.  I
will let you know how it turns out.
Jan

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, tim simonsma <tsimonsma@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Jan
> Judging from your photos it looks like you have a very aggressive mosquito
abatement program in your neighborhood. 
>               The rate of oil from each of your 3 oilers should
be 1 drip every 6 to 10 seconds out of each oiler.  When the oilers are
dripping at a faster rate than this it simply forces more oil out the front main
bearing, tail shaft, and shift linkage area.  The oil you are experiencing in
your photos is oil that has leaked around your piston rings and has been blown
into your muffler where it will reside until the engine gets up to temperature
 and burns it out. 
>               To prevent oil from getting into your muffler it is
imperative that before you start your engine you open up both compression
petcocks on each cylinder (I use 2 wire handled buckets that hang on the
petcocks to catch the oil, if you use a plastic handle they will simply melt in
two) rotate the engine over and blow all of the oil out of each cylinder, you
may have to run a small wire up the petcocks from time to time to remove the
carbon.  Then close the petcocks start the engine and open each petcock
slightly to allow the remaining oil to be blown out of the cylinders.  Once the
cylinders are clean the only oil you will have in the exhaust system is what you
have put in there and it will just take a good warm drive to evacuate your
system. Don’t  forget to remove the buckets before driving.
>               Happy motoring from the Simonsma Families from
Sacramento, California - Tim
>

Laurella Lederer's 1909 folder name.
--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "JanA" <modelt1916@...> wrote:
>
> Please take a look at my photos (Laurela car)and you can see what our problem
is.  How far back can we cut the oilers back.  I drained each cyc. before
starting and nothing came out.  I cleaned the petcocks to make sure they were
clear.  Any advice is appreciated.
> Have a fantastic day.
>

Please take a look at my photos (Laurela car)and you can see what our problem
is.  How far back can we cut the oilers back.  I drained each cyc. before
starting and nothing came out.  I cleaned the petcocks to make sure they were
clear.  Any advice is appreciated.
Have a fantastic day.

Vern, thanks for the advice. How do we persuade you to make a tool tray or two?

Howard Hodson
Cambridge UK

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "Vern Campbell" <dvcampbell@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello:
>     The tool box on the AB should be the same blue as the body.  If you
> lightly sand some of that paint that appears to be black, you may find it is
> a dark blue.  I just finished making a new tool tray for my AB.  I do have a
> very rusty and badly pitted original that I used for a pattern.  I could be
> talked into making some more of them if there is interest.  I have learned
> how to do it.  Since the tray has rounded corners it is a bit of a
> challenge.
>     Vern Campbell
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of howard_hodson
>   Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 9:11 AM
>   To: maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com
>   Subject: [maxwellbriscoeowners] Model AB Trunk questions
>
>
>
>   Hi. Please can someone tell me whether the tool box on the AB should be
> body coulour (blue) or black. Mine appears to have always been black but
> nearly every one that I have seen in photos is blue.
>
>   And please does someone have a photo of the tool tray that they could send
> me as I need to make one? Thanks.
>
>   Howard Hodson
>   Cambridge UK
>

For anyone who is not already aware the following may be of interest if its not
too late:

New 2cyl. Maxwell Blocks
Maxwell, 1907-1912, 2 cyl., 4 1/2" bore, block casting and machining project in
progress. $1000 ea. plus shipping from Ohio. Final orders before Oct. 12
Contact: E Mueller, Ohio, 330-343-3781

David McCredie  Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of howard_hodson
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 9:11 AM
To: maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [maxwellbriscoeowners] Model AB Trunk questions

 

Hi. Please can someone tell me whether the tool box on the AB should be body coulour (blue) or black. Mine appears to have always been black but nearly every one that I have seen in photos is blue.

And please does someone have a photo of the tool tray that they could send me as I need to make one? Thanks.

Howard Hodson
Cambridge UK

Hi. Please can someone tell me whether the tool box on the AB should be body
coulour (blue) or black. Mine appears to have always been black but nearly every
one that I have seen in photos is blue.

And please does someone have a photo of the tool tray that they could send me as
I need to make one? Thanks.

Howard Hodson
Cambridge UK

Bill

Thanks for the reply. My "problem" is that the screws are countersunk and there
isn't a countersunk recess in the cowl for them to sit in, and because the cowl
slopes a little where the wood sits, nothing pulls up very tight. I wonder if I
should use flat head screws or that there should be some cups to sit under the
countersunk heads.

Howard Hodson
Cambridge UK

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "whjco1" <whjco@...> wrote:
>
> Howard,
>
> I don't know that there is a truly "correct" mounting method.  Many of these
cars came sans windshield and many shipped without lights so the cars were
equipped with accessories that a dealer or the owner or mechanic would install. 
The mounting of the windshield adapter wood for my windshield on our '09 LD is
similar to yours.
>
> Bill Johnson
> Lexington, KY
>
> --- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "howard_hodson" <hph1000@> wrote:
> >
> > David, Jan. all -  my AB also has a pressed steel firewall. The wooden board
below the screen is fixed to the cowl by 4 countersunk steel wood screws through
the cowl. Does anyone know if this is correct?
> >
> > Howard Hodson
> > Cambridge UK
> >
>

Howard,

I don't know that there is a truly "correct" mounting method.  Many of these
cars came sans windshield and many shipped without lights so the cars were
equipped with accessories that a dealer or the owner or mechanic would install. 
The mounting of the windshield adapter wood for my windshield on our '09 LD is
similar to yours.

Bill Johnson
Lexington, KY

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "howard_hodson" <hph1000@...>
wrote:
>
> David, Jan. all -  my AB also has a pressed steel firewall. The wooden board
below the screen is fixed to the cowl by 4 countersunk steel wood screws through
the cowl. Does anyone know if this is correct?
>
> Howard Hodson
> Cambridge UK
>

David, Jan. all -  my AB also has a pressed steel firewall. The wooden board
below the screen is fixed to the cowl by 4 countersunk steel wood screws through
the cowl. Does anyone know if this is correct?

Howard Hodson
Cambridge UK

Jan,
The cowl on my car being wood makes it fairly easy to extend to take the
windshield however I just looked at the photos of your car and it has the
pressed metal cowl so I will leave it to others with similar models to advise on
the best way to attach the windshield.
I have posted some photos of my car.  These show the outline of the top however
I will put some sketches and photos together showing the top and irons.
David McCredie  Australia

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "JanA" <modelt1916@...> wrote:
>
> David:
> Thank you very much for the information.  How do you mount the wood to the top
of the cowl.  Do you have pictures of your setup.  I would also appreciate
pictures or sketchs of your top and irons.
> Thanks
> Jan
>

Tom and B.J.:
As I said before one of the things I like and appreciate about the antique car
business is that people are willing to share their wisdom and experience.  I
have a couple of Model t's and the only thing that is not original is the kevlar
bands.  I still run cast iron pistons and they run great.  I have a 23 Moon and
I did change pistons only because cast iron pistons were not avalaiable but Ford
Alumnium pistons were.  I did change out transmission bearings on the Moon.  In
100% of my restorations I try very hard to keep everything original.  I have
replaced felt wheel seals with modern seals but that is it.  I even painted my
high wheeler with a brush and it looked great.  I believe that we are keepers of
the past and should try where possible to leave it for our grandkids as we found
it.
Have a fantastic day.
Jan

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, RLtandem@... wrote:
>
>
> Tom & Owners
> I --and the survival of so many examples of the mark-- agree that the original
Maxwell was a well engineered auto. When well maintained the systems and
solutions JD engineered and championed worked --as you have demonstrated with
your own experience Tom. I for one have owned and operated my Maxwell for over
35 years. I am a tooling and product finishing engineer by training and vocation
with many years in product design as well as patents in industrial manufacturing
methods.
>
> A point I would make to all owners out there is: thease autos are century old
today and your modern frame of reference is very far from the one that existed
in their time. Do not place inapproiate expectations upon their operation,
performance, reliability and maintainance needs. Do not apply modern design and
engineering solutions to only a portion of the car. Don't make them into "hot
rods," preserve them. My suggestions are always in defense of the original old
iron. But when circomestances arise, such as the loss of any source for
replacement cast iron pistons, one needs to fully understand the whole of the
engine's systems and how a the modern materials substitution can best be made to
work well.
>
> The F.A.A. once instructed me to disable and destroy a perfectly good 1956
Cessna airplane because it's original $6 starter solenoid was worn beyond use
and a new old stock replacement one no longer was available. While I fully
understand and support their position that only originally certified parts and
systems can be used in maintaining an aircraft type certification. I do not
support the capricious reengineering and destruction of historic vehicles.
>
> Perfectly simple simply perfect.
> BJ Coombes
> 1909 LD
> Eagle Point, Oregon
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: THOMAS REESE <twrcars@...>
> To: maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Fri, Nov 6, 2009 8:28 am
> Subject: [maxwellbriscoeowners] Consider Originality
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Owners,
> I have followed all the various mechanical improvement ideas with interest.  I
would make the following comment:  Jonathan was a superb designer who had a feel
for what made cars run long and well.  As a hobby, I have restored 7 Maxwells; 5
twos and 2 fours.  I have not made a single revision to any of their moving
parts, keeping them or taking them back to originality.  I have owned my 2
cylinder LC for 27 years and my  4 cylinder GA for 20 years, putting lots of
miles on them.   I have yet to have a single serious mechanical failure.  I keep
them well lubricated, which means a lot of oil and grease goes through the
systems.  They cool themselves, mostly w/o pumps or fans, exceedingly well.  An
original carburetor, well rebuilt, with no choke nor running mixture adjustment,
operates the car well, even with the modern gasolines, often starting , cold, on
the first or second pull of the crank.  I have tried and seen all kinds of
"improvements" not work as well.  I would suggest, that you first do it
originally.  For qualification:  I am a Mechanical Engineer by education and
experience, retired, and have hobby restored 21 antique autos.
>
>
> Tom Reese
>
>
> On Nov 3, 2009, at 1:04 PM, RLtandem@... wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Jan
> The front center plug is the one that services the engine crankcase. The outer
ones --on each cylinder-- serve as compression releases to ease cranking force
required and would drain any accumulated oil from the combustion chambers. The
rearmost center drain is for the transmission.
>
> Oil gets into the transmission by splash over the center main bearing web and
over run from the center-main oil inlet well located in the upper half of the
center main bearing and fed by the center oil drip glass from the oil reservoir.
Oil exits out the rear main bearing and the gear shifting cam rod.
>
> The central bearings of the transmission only receive oil thru small holes in
the output sleve from this standing reservoir in the transmission case and as
result usually run dry and wear very quickly. Since the entire transmission
rides on the crankshaft extension and these bearings this is not a good
situation. My fix for this is to seal the expansion slots in the output shaft
inside the forward drive u-joint yoke with silicone. Then drill and tap a hole
thru the side of the yoke --thru both the yoke and output sleeve-- and
installing a grease fitting I then pump the sleeve full of lithium general
purpose grease, remove the zirk and use a small plug to fill the hole. Once a
seasion seems to be enough lube.
>
> Hope this helps
> BJ Coombes
> Eagle Point, Oregon
>

David:
Thank you very much for the information.  How do you mount the wood to the top
of the cowl.  Do you have pictures of your setup.  I would also appreciate
pictures or sketchs of your top and irons.
Thanks
Jan

--- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "mccrediedavid" <mccrediedavid@...>
wrote:
>
> Jan,
>
> If your car is the same as my 1912 AC then I can help you with sketches of the
top irons and bows which I believe are all correct.  I made my windshield using
hinges and other fittings obtained from US.  I had the frames mandrel bent from
7/8" dia. brass tube the I carefully slit it with an angle grinder to create the
channel for the glass.  I had it polished and clear coated.  The 2 frames are
38" x 12" each and the timber piece on mine is 2" high at the centre curved to
follow the shape of the existing timber.  Yours may be different in this area. 
If I can help it is probably better if I mail some sketches to you.
>
> David McCredie Australia
>
> --- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "JanA" <modelt1916@> wrote:
> >
> > I noticed that the windshield is a three piece with one piece wood and two
pieces are the upper and lower windshield.  Does anyone have the dimensions.  I
also need top irons and bows and dimensions.  Thanks for your help.
> >
>