You're much better off just getting a rebuilt Delco alternator and adapting it.
It will be less than the cost of the Marelli regulator which is replaceable on
the alternator. Later 89-90 Bitrubos in the USA came with Delco alternators as
did all Biturbos in Europe after that. Take visit over to the Biturbozentrum
Yahoo group and there are numerous discussions and diagrams about this
conversion over there. It's a much higher output alternator which the car needs.


Bob S.
--- In maserati@yahoogroups.com, Joe <alfamaser@...> wrote:
>
> MIE sells the voltage regulator. I think it is about $120 but check with them
for the price.
> Once you take the alternator out, it takes only a couple of minutes to replace
that.
>
> --- On Tue, 11/24/09, Brian Shorey <bshorey@...> wrote:
>
> From: Brian Shorey <bshorey@...>
> Subject: Re: [maserati] Voltage regulator in biturbo
> To: "João Sequeira" <jseq@...>, maserati@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, November 24, 2009, 8:30 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       I don't own a Biturbo, but I'll hazard a guess that if you can't find a
separate regulator, it might be integral to the alternator.
>
>
>
> HTH,
>
>
>
> bs
>
>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ __
>
> From: João Sequeira <jseq@... utl.pt>
>
> To: maserati@yahoogroup s.com
>
> Sent: Tue, November 24, 2009 5:47:43 AM
>
> Subject: [maserati] Voltage regulator in biturbo
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> Recently, i noticed that the voltmeter in my biturbo often shows values
>
> well above the 12/13 volts (some spikes reached the top end).
>
> I tried checking if there's any problem with the voltage regulator but
>
> couldn't find it !
>
>
>
> Can you give me an hint on this ?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> --
>
> ---
>
> João Silva Sequeira
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Group,

I was just curious if anyone from the group happened to be at Keith McCormick's
Exotic Car Auction over the past weekend out in Palm Springs?  I saw an '84
White Maserati Quattroporte that looked to be in very good condition.  I'm even
more curious to hear if anyone in the group knows anything about the history of
this car, or even better, if the previous owner of this car might be in the
group still?  Wish I had some spare change, I would have tried to bid on it.  Oh
well, maybe next year.

Happy Thanksgiving,
Nathan Guillory
'85 Biturbo

MIE sells the voltage regulator. I think it is about $120 but check with them
for the price.
Once you take the alternator out, it takes only a couple of minutes to replace
that.

--- On Tue, 11/24/09, Brian Shorey <bshorey@...> wrote:

From: Brian Shorey <bshorey@...>
Subject: Re: [maserati] Voltage regulator in biturbo
To: "João Sequeira" <jseq@...>, maserati@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 24, 2009, 8:30 AM
















 









       I don't own a Biturbo, but I'll hazard a guess that if you can't find a
separate regulator, it might be integral to the alternator.



HTH,



bs



____________ _________ _________ __

From: João Sequeira <jseq@.... utl.pt>

To: maserati@yahoogroup s.com

Sent: Tue, November 24, 2009 5:47:43 AM

Subject: [maserati] Voltage regulator in biturbo



Hi all,



Recently, i noticed that the voltmeter in my biturbo often shows values

well above the 12/13 volts (some spikes reached the top end).

I tried checking if there's any problem with the voltage regulator but

couldn't find it !



Can you give me an hint on this ?



Thanks



--

---

João Silva Sequeira



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I don't own a Biturbo, but I'll hazard a guess that if you can't find a separate
regulator, it might be integral to the alternator.

HTH,

bs




________________________________
From: João Sequeira <jseq@...>
To: maserati@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, November 24, 2009 5:47:43 AM
Subject: [maserati] Voltage regulator in biturbo


Hi all,

Recently, i noticed that the voltmeter in my biturbo often shows values
well above the 12/13 volts (some spikes reached the top end).
I tried checking if there's any problem with the voltage regulator but
couldn't find it !

Can you give me an hint on this ?

Thanks

--
---
João Silva Sequeira







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi all,

Recently, i noticed that the voltmeter in my biturbo often shows values
well above the 12/13 volts (some spikes reached the top end).
I tried checking if there's any problem with the voltage regulator but
couldn't find it !

Can you give me an hint on this ?

Thanks

--
---
João Silva Sequeira

Hi Tom,

I haven't tried the red pads but I used the green pads on another car that like
you I used for occaisional track duty. These were fine and are still on the car
but are just being used for the street these days. I have a dedicated track car
now with a full racing setup.

I'm not familiar with the characteristics of their red pad but there are two
things I'd be watching for. Do these pads require a heat-up time to become
effective which is typical for really good racing pads but horrific for road
use. The other thing is how tough are they on your rotors which aren't a trivial
expense on that car. When you get into higher performance pads they can require
a special bedding preparation and may not be compatible with deposits left on
the rotors from the previous pads. The manufacturer can tell you more about
that. So sometimes you can't easily and effectively just swap pads for the track
day.

  The Bora rolls a lot in the turns but it's still fun. I used to have 235/60-15F
and 255/60-15R R1 Comp TAs on mine (NLA). Those were very specially constructed
tires (flimsy sidewall on one side) that worked rather well for that old beast.
I was able to drift through turns and it was a hoot. It's not an uber light
weight track day car but you can still have some fun as long as you don't try to
keep up with the modern or specially prepped cars.

Have fun.

Bob S.

--- In maserati@yahoogroups.com, tig <tig@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Bob,
>
> I've found sources for all the stoplight colors of EBC pads, and should
> have no problem sourcing the Girling rebuild kit for the calipers as
> well.  I've settled on the "red stuff" as being a little better suited
> to an occasional track day while still being low dust pads.  EBC warns
> that the "yellow stuff" is "definitely not low dust."  (Their words, not
> mine.)  I keep telling myself that part of the fun of these cars is
> getting to work on them - a lot... it's self delusion that I'm
> cultivating to prevent trading them in on a Yugo.
>
> Tom
> AM101.1624
> AM117.49.586
>
> staatsof wrote:
> >
> >
> > I haven't looked but just about everything is available for Panteras.
> > Check out EBC pads. Probably the green series as they're OK for the road.
> >
> > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > "George" <gcmerak@> wrote:
> > >
> > > If the Bora rears are the same as the Merak SS rears, then that pad
> > would be the same as a 1979 Jaguar XJS. Bob, do the Pantera front pads
> > come in a ceramic formulation?
> > >
> > > Caio,
> > > George
> > >
> > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > "staatsof" <staats@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The fronts pads are the same as a Pantera and the rears are a very
> > common pattern but I don't remember what they are (BMW?). I'm certain
> > it's all described in one of the many interchange lists that have been
> > floating around for the last 25 years. If you drive it really hard at
> > the track you can certainly burn up a set of pads. I've seen that
> > happen. I always used the stock pads (Textar) on mine. Since they're a
> > Pantera pattern those guys must have a ton of things to suggest.
> > > >
> > > > Bob S.
> > > >
> > > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>, tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Bob,
> > > > >
> > > > > Western Hemispheres put the sphere and O ring on the regulator,
> > and they
> > > > > seem to have it right. The big leak and the source of the
> > problem seems
> > > > > to have been the supply side hoseclamp at the top of the regulator.
> > > > > When I finally got a chance to run the car in my driveway the
> > major leak
> > > > > became evident in minutes. There may still be some minor leaks... I
> > > > > replaced the pump and have been chasing "weakest point" leaks for a
> > > > > couple of months. All the brake lines have been recently
> > replaced with
> > > > > stainless braid covered lines. The steel LHM lines were OK when
> > I put
> > > > > everything back together last year... the ones on the subframe were
> > > > > replaced.
> > > > >
> > > > > One leak is in the left front caliper (again), so after
> > rebuilding it I
> > > > > plan to replace the pads (probably front only, the rears seem to be
> > > > > fine). Do you... or does anyone... have suggestions as to the most
> > > > > desireable brake pad composition, given that I don't often get
> > to drive
> > > > > very hard and would prefer not to have to warm up the brakes for
> > road
> > > > > use. Also keeping in mind that I hope to get some track time
> > with the
> > > > > car.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks to all who sent suggestions. Without this community
> > sharing its
> > > > > experience many of us wouldn't even attempt to work on - or even
> > own -
> > > > > these cars.
> > > > >
> > > > > Tom
> > > > > AM101.1624
> > > > > AM117.49.586
> > > > >
> > > > > staatsof wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Tom,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > In my case I got the O-ring on cockeyed one time and so it did
> > not
> > > > > > seal properly. Made quite the mess as well as causing a small
> > but very
> > > > > > sooty fire with no damage.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I don't know the state of you Bora so you may have already
> > replaced
> > > > > > those brake lines I mentioned but if you haven't please do
> > check them
> > > > > > at the securing tabs. I know of several Boras that all had this
> > > > > > problem at the same exact spots.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Cheers.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bob S.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > > > tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks Bob,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I got a chance to do some checking today and found a severe
> > leak near
> > > > > > > the top of the regulator (main accumulator). Now I have a
> > location, but
> > > > > > > haven't determined the source yet... likely the very O ring
> > you're
> > > > > > > talking about. There are remnants of a couple of other
> > rubbers washers
> > > > > > > there, too.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > BTW, the "smoke" was contained inside the reservoir but
> > carrying a
> > > > > > halon
> > > > > > > extinguisher is always a good idea and I carry one at all times.
> > > > > > > Anyway, it seems that a leak developed suddenly, causing the
> > LHM in the
> > > > > > > tank to deplete to the point that the pickup could no longer
> > suck oil.
> > > > > > > This caused the pump to make radical noises and caused heat
> > to build in
> > > > > > > the system, which then returned very hot LHM to the tank. I
> > haven't
> > > > > > > been able to duplicate the problem, but then I'm not anxious
> > to run the
> > > > > > > pump with insufficient oil.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I'll keep everyone posted in the hopes that what I find
> > might be of
> > > > > > help
> > > > > > > to someone else.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Tom
> > > > > > > AM101.1624
> > > > > > > AM117.49.586
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > staatsof wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I've driven my Bora in 100F conditions for long periods of
> > time and
> > > > > > > > the LHM tank doesn't boil the fluid due to proximity of
> > the headers
> > > > > > > > but I did add a heat shield over the headers for good
> > measure after
> > > > > > > > owning the car for a year. I suspect that you have a
> > simple leak
> > > > > > > > somewhere and when that get's on the headers it will start
> > a very
> > > > > > > > smoky fire so do be careful. Been there! I always carry a
> > 15lb Halon
> > > > > > > > extinghuisher. It saved my car once already.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > You might want to check your main accumulator (the
> > grapefruit sized
> > > > > > > > one and make certain that the sealing O-ring is good and
> > that its
> > > > > > > > tight. There are plenty of others spots to check as well.
> > At these
> > > > > > > > pressures a small leak will cause a big mess in a hurry.
> > You should
> > > > > > > > have a lot more than 1.5" of fluid in your reservoir. It's
> > more like
> > > > > > > > 3" from the top. My tank has a translucent side pipe to
> > monitor the
> > > > > > > > fluid level.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > There is is a well know fault with the brake lines in
> > these cars
> > > > > > which
> > > > > > > > should be looked at by ALL OWNERS if you haven't done it yet.
> > > > > > > > On the rear subframe the brake line runs along the the top
> > of the
> > > > > > > > longitudinal frame members on both sides. It's directly
> > below the
> > > > > > > > headers where it's quite toasty. These steel brake lines
> > are held in
> > > > > > > > place with folded metal tabs wrapped around a vinyl sleeve
> > that
> > > > > > covers
> > > > > > > > the brake line. The vinyl deteriorates and possibly this
> > causes
> > > > > > > > accelerated corrosion? When I re-did my engine compartment
> > my brake
> > > > > > > > line fell into two pieces at that spot and at that time my
> > car was 10
> > > > > > > > years old with very low miles on it.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > You might have a leak from one of these spots.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Bob S.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > > <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > > > > > tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Thank you for the suggestions, Jacob. I will look into
> > each of them
> > > > > > > > > and let everyone know when I finally isolate the problem.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Tom
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > jacobremijnse wrote:
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Hi Guys,
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > I have been reading about the problems with the LHM
> > fluid. I have
> > > > > > > > been
> > > > > > > > > > driving my Bora for quite some time now and I have had
> > no problems
> > > > > > > > > > with the exceptions of minor leaks. In my case the
> > whole hydraulic
> > > > > > > > > > system was also completely overhauled.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > When rebuilding the hydraulic system we came to some
> > remarks. The
> > > > > > > > > > container for the LHM fluid is quite large when taking
> > into
> > > > > > account
> > > > > > > > > > the maximum marker for the fluid. My level of LHM is
> > always
> > > > > > above the
> > > > > > > > > > maximum and I also carry a spare supply of 2 cans in
> > the side
> > > > > > panels.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Another conclusion is that the piping of the hydraulic
> > system is
> > > > > > > > light
> > > > > > > > > > and thin. The piping is kept as far away from the
> > engine as
> > > > > > possible,
> > > > > > > > > > but the engine heat that is produced is formidable,
> > even more
> > > > > > so on
> > > > > > > > > > long runs. I do not know the boiling point of LHM, but
> > so far
> > > > > > I have
> > > > > > > > > > forgotten to check this out.It must certainly increase
> > the
> > > > > > risk of
> > > > > > > > leaks.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > The last remark is a bit in line with the previous
> > one. The
> > > > > > container
> > > > > > > > > > for the LHM fluid is close to the exhaust manifold. I
> > have
> > > > > > draped the
> > > > > > > > > > (good looking stainless steel) manifold with heat
> > reducing
> > > > > > tape`, but
> > > > > > > > > > I am sure otherwise the manifold will become red hot
> > when driving
> > > > > > > > long
> > > > > > > > > > distances. So the cooling of the LHM fluid in the
> > container
> > > > > > may also
> > > > > > > > > > be a problem. If the basic level of the fluid is lower
> > in the
> > > > > > > > > > container, the risk of leaks etc increases.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > I am not a great technician, but I am sure one of our
> > fellow
> > > > > > members
> > > > > > > > > > will be able to comment on my findings
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Best regards,
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Jacob
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Thanks Bob,

I've found sources for all the stoplight colors of EBC pads, and should
have no problem sourcing the Girling rebuild kit for the calipers as
well.  I've settled on the "red stuff" as being a little better suited
to an occasional track day while still being low dust pads.  EBC warns
that the "yellow stuff" is "definitely not low dust."  (Their words, not
mine.)  I keep telling myself that part of the fun of these cars is
getting to work on them - a lot... it's self delusion that I'm
cultivating to prevent trading them in on a Yugo.

Tom
AM101.1624
AM117.49.586

staatsof wrote:
>
>
> I haven't looked but just about everything is available for Panteras.
> Check out EBC pads. Probably the green series as they're OK for the road.
>
> --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "George" <gcmerak@...> wrote:
> >
> > If the Bora rears are the same as the Merak SS rears, then that pad
> would be the same as a 1979 Jaguar XJS. Bob, do the Pantera front pads
> come in a ceramic formulation?
> >
> > Caio,
> > George
> >
> > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "staatsof" <staats@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The fronts pads are the same as a Pantera and the rears are a very
> common pattern but I don't remember what they are (BMW?). I'm certain
> it's all described in one of the many interchange lists that have been
> floating around for the last 25 years. If you drive it really hard at
> the track you can certainly burn up a set of pads. I've seen that
> happen. I always used the stock pads (Textar) on mine. Since they're a
> Pantera pattern those guys must have a ton of things to suggest.
> > >
> > > Bob S.
> > >
> > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>, tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Bob,
> > > >
> > > > Western Hemispheres put the sphere and O ring on the regulator,
> and they
> > > > seem to have it right. The big leak and the source of the
> problem seems
> > > > to have been the supply side hoseclamp at the top of the regulator.
> > > > When I finally got a chance to run the car in my driveway the
> major leak
> > > > became evident in minutes. There may still be some minor leaks... I
> > > > replaced the pump and have been chasing "weakest point" leaks for a
> > > > couple of months. All the brake lines have been recently
> replaced with
> > > > stainless braid covered lines. The steel LHM lines were OK when
> I put
> > > > everything back together last year... the ones on the subframe were
> > > > replaced.
> > > >
> > > > One leak is in the left front caliper (again), so after
> rebuilding it I
> > > > plan to replace the pads (probably front only, the rears seem to be
> > > > fine). Do you... or does anyone... have suggestions as to the most
> > > > desireable brake pad composition, given that I don't often get
> to drive
> > > > very hard and would prefer not to have to warm up the brakes for
> road
> > > > use. Also keeping in mind that I hope to get some track time
> with the
> > > > car.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks to all who sent suggestions. Without this community
> sharing its
> > > > experience many of us wouldn't even attempt to work on - or even
> own -
> > > > these cars.
> > > >
> > > > Tom
> > > > AM101.1624
> > > > AM117.49.586
> > > >
> > > > staatsof wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Tom,
> > > > >
> > > > > In my case I got the O-ring on cockeyed one time and so it did
> not
> > > > > seal properly. Made quite the mess as well as causing a small
> but very
> > > > > sooty fire with no damage.
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't know the state of you Bora so you may have already
> replaced
> > > > > those brake lines I mentioned but if you haven't please do
> check them
> > > > > at the securing tabs. I know of several Boras that all had this
> > > > > problem at the same exact spots.
> > > > >
> > > > > Cheers.
> > > > >
> > > > > Bob S.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > > tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks Bob,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I got a chance to do some checking today and found a severe
> leak near
> > > > > > the top of the regulator (main accumulator). Now I have a
> location, but
> > > > > > haven't determined the source yet... likely the very O ring
> you're
> > > > > > talking about. There are remnants of a couple of other
> rubbers washers
> > > > > > there, too.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > BTW, the "smoke" was contained inside the reservoir but
> carrying a
> > > > > halon
> > > > > > extinguisher is always a good idea and I carry one at all times.
> > > > > > Anyway, it seems that a leak developed suddenly, causing the
> LHM in the
> > > > > > tank to deplete to the point that the pickup could no longer
> suck oil.
> > > > > > This caused the pump to make radical noises and caused heat
> to build in
> > > > > > the system, which then returned very hot LHM to the tank. I
> haven't
> > > > > > been able to duplicate the problem, but then I'm not anxious
> to run the
> > > > > > pump with insufficient oil.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I'll keep everyone posted in the hopes that what I find
> might be of
> > > > > help
> > > > > > to someone else.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Tom
> > > > > > AM101.1624
> > > > > > AM117.49.586
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > staatsof wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I've driven my Bora in 100F conditions for long periods of
> time and
> > > > > > > the LHM tank doesn't boil the fluid due to proximity of
> the headers
> > > > > > > but I did add a heat shield over the headers for good
> measure after
> > > > > > > owning the car for a year. I suspect that you have a
> simple leak
> > > > > > > somewhere and when that get's on the headers it will start
> a very
> > > > > > > smoky fire so do be careful. Been there! I always carry a
> 15lb Halon
> > > > > > > extinghuisher. It saved my car once already.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > You might want to check your main accumulator (the
> grapefruit sized
> > > > > > > one and make certain that the sealing O-ring is good and
> that its
> > > > > > > tight. There are plenty of others spots to check as well.
> At these
> > > > > > > pressures a small leak will cause a big mess in a hurry.
> You should
> > > > > > > have a lot more than 1.5" of fluid in your reservoir. It's
> more like
> > > > > > > 3" from the top. My tank has a translucent side pipe to
> monitor the
> > > > > > > fluid level.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > There is is a well know fault with the brake lines in
> these cars
> > > > > which
> > > > > > > should be looked at by ALL OWNERS if you haven't done it yet.
> > > > > > > On the rear subframe the brake line runs along the the top
> of the
> > > > > > > longitudinal frame members on both sides. It's directly
> below the
> > > > > > > headers where it's quite toasty. These steel brake lines
> are held in
> > > > > > > place with folded metal tabs wrapped around a vinyl sleeve
> that
> > > > > covers
> > > > > > > the brake line. The vinyl deteriorates and possibly this
> causes
> > > > > > > accelerated corrosion? When I re-did my engine compartment
> my brake
> > > > > > > line fell into two pieces at that spot and at that time my
> car was 10
> > > > > > > years old with very low miles on it.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > You might have a leak from one of these spots.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Bob S.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > > > > tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Thank you for the suggestions, Jacob. I will look into
> each of them
> > > > > > > > and let everyone know when I finally isolate the problem.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Tom
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > jacobremijnse wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Hi Guys,
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I have been reading about the problems with the LHM
> fluid. I have
> > > > > > > been
> > > > > > > > > driving my Bora for quite some time now and I have had
> no problems
> > > > > > > > > with the exceptions of minor leaks. In my case the
> whole hydraulic
> > > > > > > > > system was also completely overhauled.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > When rebuilding the hydraulic system we came to some
> remarks. The
> > > > > > > > > container for the LHM fluid is quite large when taking
> into
> > > > > account
> > > > > > > > > the maximum marker for the fluid. My level of LHM is
> always
> > > > > above the
> > > > > > > > > maximum and I also carry a spare supply of 2 cans in
> the side
> > > > > panels.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Another conclusion is that the piping of the hydraulic
> system is
> > > > > > > light
> > > > > > > > > and thin. The piping is kept as far away from the
> engine as
> > > > > possible,
> > > > > > > > > but the engine heat that is produced is formidable,
> even more
> > > > > so on
> > > > > > > > > long runs. I do not know the boiling point of LHM, but
> so far
> > > > > I have
> > > > > > > > > forgotten to check this out.It must certainly increase
> the
> > > > > risk of
> > > > > > > leaks.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > The last remark is a bit in line with the previous
> one. The
> > > > > container
> > > > > > > > > for the LHM fluid is close to the exhaust manifold. I
> have
> > > > > draped the
> > > > > > > > > (good looking stainless steel) manifold with heat
> reducing
> > > > > tape`, but
> > > > > > > > > I am sure otherwise the manifold will become red hot
> when driving
> > > > > > > long
> > > > > > > > > distances. So the cooling of the LHM fluid in the
> container
> > > > > may also
> > > > > > > > > be a problem. If the basic level of the fluid is lower
> in the
> > > > > > > > > container, the risk of leaks etc increases.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I am not a great technician, but I am sure one of our
> fellow
> > > > > members
> > > > > > > > > will be able to comment on my findings
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Best regards,
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Jacob
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I haven't looked but just about everything is available for Panteras.
Check out EBC pads. Probably the green series as they're OK for the road.

--- In maserati@yahoogroups.com, "George" <gcmerak@...> wrote:
>
> If the Bora rears are the same as the Merak SS rears, then that pad would be
the same as a 1979 Jaguar XJS.  Bob, do the Pantera front pads come in a ceramic
formulation?
>
> Caio,
> George
>
> --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com, "staatsof" <staats@> wrote:
> >
> > The fronts pads are the same as a Pantera and the rears are a very common
pattern but I don't remember what they are (BMW?). I'm certain it's all
described in one of the many interchange lists that have been floating around
for the last 25 years.  If you drive it really hard at the track you can
certainly burn up a set of pads. I've seen that happen. I always used the stock
pads (Textar) on mine. Since they're a Pantera pattern those guys must have a
ton of things to suggest.
> >
> > Bob S.
> >
> > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com, tig <tig@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Bob,
> > >
> > > Western Hemispheres put the sphere and O ring on the regulator, and they
> > > seem to have it right.  The big leak and the source of the problem seems
> > > to have been the supply side hoseclamp at the top of the regulator.
> > > When I finally got a chance to run the car in my driveway the major leak
> > > became evident in minutes.  There may still be some minor leaks... I
> > > replaced the pump and have been chasing "weakest point" leaks for a
> > > couple of months.  All the brake lines have been recently replaced with
> > > stainless braid covered lines.  The steel LHM lines were OK when I put
> > > everything back together last year... the ones on the subframe were
> > > replaced.
> > >
> > > One leak is in the left front caliper (again), so after rebuilding it I
> > > plan to replace the pads (probably front only, the rears seem to be
> > > fine).  Do you... or does anyone... have suggestions as to the most
> > > desireable brake pad composition, given that I don't often get to drive
> > > very hard and would prefer not to have to warm up the brakes for road
> > > use.  Also keeping in mind that I hope to get some track time with the
> > > car.
> > >
> > > Thanks to all who sent suggestions. Without this community sharing its
> > > experience many of us wouldn't even attempt to work on  - or even own -
> > > these cars.
> > >
> > > Tom
> > > AM101.1624
> > > AM117.49.586
> > >
> > > staatsof wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi Tom,
> > > >
> > > > In my case I got the O-ring on cockeyed one time and so it did not
> > > > seal properly. Made quite the mess as well as causing a small but very
> > > > sooty fire with no damage.
> > > >
> > > > I don't know the state of you Bora so you may have already replaced
> > > > those brake lines I mentioned but if you haven't please do check them
> > > > at the securing tabs. I know of several Boras that all had this
> > > > problem at the same exact spots.
> > > >
> > > > Cheers.
> > > >
> > > > Bob S.
> > > >
> > > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks Bob,
> > > > >
> > > > > I got a chance to do some checking today and found a severe leak near
> > > > > the top of the regulator (main accumulator). Now I have a location,
but
> > > > > haven't determined the source yet... likely the very O ring you're
> > > > > talking about. There are remnants of a couple of other rubbers washers
> > > > > there, too.
> > > > >
> > > > > BTW, the "smoke" was contained inside the reservoir but carrying a
> > > > halon
> > > > > extinguisher is always a good idea and I carry one at all times.
> > > > > Anyway, it seems that a leak developed suddenly, causing the LHM in
the
> > > > > tank to deplete to the point that the pickup could no longer suck oil.
> > > > > This caused the pump to make radical noises and caused heat to build
in
> > > > > the system, which then returned very hot LHM to the tank. I haven't
> > > > > been able to duplicate the problem, but then I'm not anxious to run
the
> > > > > pump with insufficient oil.
> > > > >
> > > > > I'll keep everyone posted in the hopes that what I find might be of
> > > > help
> > > > > to someone else.
> > > > >
> > > > > Tom
> > > > > AM101.1624
> > > > > AM117.49.586
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > staatsof wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I've driven my Bora in 100F conditions for long periods of time and
> > > > > > the LHM tank doesn't boil the fluid due to proximity of the headers
> > > > > > but I did add a heat shield over the headers for good measure after
> > > > > > owning the car for a year. I suspect that you have a simple leak
> > > > > > somewhere and when that get's on the headers it will start a very
> > > > > > smoky fire so do be careful. Been there! I always carry a 15lb Halon
> > > > > > extinghuisher. It saved my car once already.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You might want to check your main accumulator (the grapefruit sized
> > > > > > one and make certain that the sealing O-ring is good and that its
> > > > > > tight. There are plenty of others spots to check as well. At these
> > > > > > pressures a small leak will cause a big mess in a hurry. You should
> > > > > > have a lot more than 1.5" of fluid in your reservoir. It's more like
> > > > > > 3" from the top. My tank has a translucent side pipe to monitor the
> > > > > > fluid level.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > There is is a well know fault with the brake lines in these cars
> > > > which
> > > > > > should be looked at by ALL OWNERS if you haven't done it yet.
> > > > > > On the rear subframe the brake line runs along the the top of the
> > > > > > longitudinal frame members on both sides. It's directly below the
> > > > > > headers where it's quite toasty. These steel brake lines are held in
> > > > > > place with folded metal tabs wrapped around a vinyl sleeve that
> > > > covers
> > > > > > the brake line. The vinyl deteriorates and possibly this causes
> > > > > > accelerated corrosion? When I re-did my engine compartment my brake
> > > > > > line fell into two pieces at that spot and at that time my car was
10
> > > > > > years old with very low miles on it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You might have a leak from one of these spots.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Bob S.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > > > tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thank you for the suggestions, Jacob. I will look into each of
them
> > > > > > > and let everyone know when I finally isolate the problem.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Tom
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > jacobremijnse wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Hi Guys,
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I have been reading about the problems with the LHM fluid. I
have
> > > > > > been
> > > > > > > > driving my Bora for quite some time now and I have had no
problems
> > > > > > > > with the exceptions of minor leaks. In my case the whole
hydraulic
> > > > > > > > system was also completely overhauled.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > When rebuilding the hydraulic system we came to some remarks.
The
> > > > > > > > container for the LHM fluid is quite large when taking into
> > > > account
> > > > > > > > the maximum marker for the fluid. My level of LHM is always
> > > > above the
> > > > > > > > maximum and I also carry a spare supply of 2 cans in the side
> > > > panels.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Another conclusion is that the piping of the hydraulic system is
> > > > > > light
> > > > > > > > and thin. The piping is kept as far away from the engine as
> > > > possible,
> > > > > > > > but the engine heat that is produced is formidable, even more
> > > > so on
> > > > > > > > long runs. I do not know the boiling point of LHM, but so far
> > > > I have
> > > > > > > > forgotten to check this out.It must certainly increase the
> > > > risk of
> > > > > > leaks.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The last remark is a bit in line with the previous one. The
> > > > container
> > > > > > > > for the LHM fluid is close to the exhaust manifold. I have
> > > > draped the
> > > > > > > > (good looking stainless steel) manifold with heat reducing
> > > > tape`, but
> > > > > > > > I am sure otherwise the manifold will become red hot when
driving
> > > > > > long
> > > > > > > > distances. So the cooling of the LHM fluid in the container
> > > > may also
> > > > > > > > be a problem. If the basic level of the fluid is lower in the
> > > > > > > > container, the risk of leaks etc increases.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I am not a great technician, but I am sure one of our fellow
> > > > members
> > > > > > > > will be able to comment on my findings
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Best regards,
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Jacob
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>

Hello Guys,
Another Maserati enthusiast that I have been in contact with is selling his 1989
Maserati Spyder. It will be listed on Ebay soon. See the website below. If you
are interested, see contact Nektarios via the website link below.

Jerome

---------------------------------------------------------
Hi Jerome,

I have created a page with photos here:
http://89spyder.com

I can say that there are no mechanical issues that I am aware of. The car was
given a clean bill of health from Bobileff Motor Sports. The electrical is fine.
As a matter of fact, I have been pleasantly surprised that it has shown no
electrical issues since 2004, when I first bought it. Some minor exceptions: The
clock quit working after I had the dash re-dyed. I suspect faulty wire
connection to the clock. Second, the speedo sometimes drops to zero. This is not
due to a faulty connector to the transmission, because a light tap on the
instrument panel brings it back. I suspect a loose connection in the instrument
panel.

The major issue with the car is that my mother-in-law ran into it while backing
out of the driveway. The front left corner of her bumper ran the length of the
passenger side, resulting to a slight indentation and scratched paint on the
front quarter panel, the door, and the rear quarter panel. See photos. Having
seen your level of workmanship on the photos you sent me, I have a feeling that
you won't have any problems repairing that.

Here are some of the upgrades I can recall:
1. The seats were redone in Italian leather, the highest quality available here
in the States. You can totally feel the difference. The console and dash were
dyed to match the leather. I recall something like a $6,000 bill for this alone.
Although I have all the records for work done on this car, I will have to dig
them up. (Have been living at my mother-in-law's for a couple of months and a
lot of our belongings are packed away).
2. CD with McIntosh amp and 4 speaker drivers (two full-range in kick panels,
two tweeters in the doors); Bazooka sub, amped separately.
3. MIE stabilization bar in engine compartment.
4. Copper radiator.
5. Kumo tires, correct sizes front and back.
6. Wooden steering wheel and parking brake handle.
7. Oil pan guard.

Extras:
1. Original leather steering wheel.
2. Set of HRE 3-piece wheels with tires installed. One of the wheels is missing
its hub, but I called HRE a couple of years ago and they quoted me $150 for
replacement. The whole set is worth quite a lot of money.

In light of the body repair and some other cosmetic repairs that may be needed
(see pics). I'd appreciate it if you could pass this information along to anyone
interested. I will be listing it on ebay as soon as I have a chance, but the
reserve will be higher.

Nektarios

If the Bora rears are the same as the Merak SS rears, then that pad would be the
same as a 1979 Jaguar XJS.  Bob, do the Pantera front pads come in a ceramic
formulation?

Caio,
George

--- In maserati@yahoogroups.com, "staatsof" <staats@...> wrote:
>
> The fronts pads are the same as a Pantera and the rears are a very common
pattern but I don't remember what they are (BMW?). I'm certain it's all
described in one of the many interchange lists that have been floating around
for the last 25 years.  If you drive it really hard at the track you can
certainly burn up a set of pads. I've seen that happen. I always used the stock
pads (Textar) on mine. Since they're a Pantera pattern those guys must have a
ton of things to suggest.
>
> Bob S.
>
> --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com, tig <tig@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Bob,
> >
> > Western Hemispheres put the sphere and O ring on the regulator, and they
> > seem to have it right.  The big leak and the source of the problem seems
> > to have been the supply side hoseclamp at the top of the regulator.
> > When I finally got a chance to run the car in my driveway the major leak
> > became evident in minutes.  There may still be some minor leaks... I
> > replaced the pump and have been chasing "weakest point" leaks for a
> > couple of months.  All the brake lines have been recently replaced with
> > stainless braid covered lines.  The steel LHM lines were OK when I put
> > everything back together last year... the ones on the subframe were
> > replaced.
> >
> > One leak is in the left front caliper (again), so after rebuilding it I
> > plan to replace the pads (probably front only, the rears seem to be
> > fine).  Do you... or does anyone... have suggestions as to the most
> > desireable brake pad composition, given that I don't often get to drive
> > very hard and would prefer not to have to warm up the brakes for road
> > use.  Also keeping in mind that I hope to get some track time with the
> > car.
> >
> > Thanks to all who sent suggestions. Without this community sharing its
> > experience many of us wouldn't even attempt to work on  - or even own -
> > these cars.
> >
> > Tom
> > AM101.1624
> > AM117.49.586
> >
> > staatsof wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Tom,
> > >
> > > In my case I got the O-ring on cockeyed one time and so it did not
> > > seal properly. Made quite the mess as well as causing a small but very
> > > sooty fire with no damage.
> > >
> > > I don't know the state of you Bora so you may have already replaced
> > > those brake lines I mentioned but if you haven't please do check them
> > > at the securing tabs. I know of several Boras that all had this
> > > problem at the same exact spots.
> > >
> > > Cheers.
> > >
> > > Bob S.
> > >
> > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks Bob,
> > > >
> > > > I got a chance to do some checking today and found a severe leak near
> > > > the top of the regulator (main accumulator). Now I have a location, but
> > > > haven't determined the source yet... likely the very O ring you're
> > > > talking about. There are remnants of a couple of other rubbers washers
> > > > there, too.
> > > >
> > > > BTW, the "smoke" was contained inside the reservoir but carrying a
> > > halon
> > > > extinguisher is always a good idea and I carry one at all times.
> > > > Anyway, it seems that a leak developed suddenly, causing the LHM in the
> > > > tank to deplete to the point that the pickup could no longer suck oil.
> > > > This caused the pump to make radical noises and caused heat to build in
> > > > the system, which then returned very hot LHM to the tank. I haven't
> > > > been able to duplicate the problem, but then I'm not anxious to run the
> > > > pump with insufficient oil.
> > > >
> > > > I'll keep everyone posted in the hopes that what I find might be of
> > > help
> > > > to someone else.
> > > >
> > > > Tom
> > > > AM101.1624
> > > > AM117.49.586
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > staatsof wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I've driven my Bora in 100F conditions for long periods of time and
> > > > > the LHM tank doesn't boil the fluid due to proximity of the headers
> > > > > but I did add a heat shield over the headers for good measure after
> > > > > owning the car for a year. I suspect that you have a simple leak
> > > > > somewhere and when that get's on the headers it will start a very
> > > > > smoky fire so do be careful. Been there! I always carry a 15lb Halon
> > > > > extinghuisher. It saved my car once already.
> > > > >
> > > > > You might want to check your main accumulator (the grapefruit sized
> > > > > one and make certain that the sealing O-ring is good and that its
> > > > > tight. There are plenty of others spots to check as well. At these
> > > > > pressures a small leak will cause a big mess in a hurry. You should
> > > > > have a lot more than 1.5" of fluid in your reservoir. It's more like
> > > > > 3" from the top. My tank has a translucent side pipe to monitor the
> > > > > fluid level.
> > > > >
> > > > > There is is a well know fault with the brake lines in these cars
> > > which
> > > > > should be looked at by ALL OWNERS if you haven't done it yet.
> > > > > On the rear subframe the brake line runs along the the top of the
> > > > > longitudinal frame members on both sides. It's directly below the
> > > > > headers where it's quite toasty. These steel brake lines are held in
> > > > > place with folded metal tabs wrapped around a vinyl sleeve that
> > > covers
> > > > > the brake line. The vinyl deteriorates and possibly this causes
> > > > > accelerated corrosion? When I re-did my engine compartment my brake
> > > > > line fell into two pieces at that spot and at that time my car was 10
> > > > > years old with very low miles on it.
> > > > >
> > > > > You might have a leak from one of these spots.
> > > > >
> > > > > Bob S.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > > tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thank you for the suggestions, Jacob. I will look into each of them
> > > > > > and let everyone know when I finally isolate the problem.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Tom
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jacobremijnse wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hi Guys,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I have been reading about the problems with the LHM fluid. I have
> > > > > been
> > > > > > > driving my Bora for quite some time now and I have had no problems
> > > > > > > with the exceptions of minor leaks. In my case the whole hydraulic
> > > > > > > system was also completely overhauled.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > When rebuilding the hydraulic system we came to some remarks. The
> > > > > > > container for the LHM fluid is quite large when taking into
> > > account
> > > > > > > the maximum marker for the fluid. My level of LHM is always
> > > above the
> > > > > > > maximum and I also carry a spare supply of 2 cans in the side
> > > panels.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Another conclusion is that the piping of the hydraulic system is
> > > > > light
> > > > > > > and thin. The piping is kept as far away from the engine as
> > > possible,
> > > > > > > but the engine heat that is produced is formidable, even more
> > > so on
> > > > > > > long runs. I do not know the boiling point of LHM, but so far
> > > I have
> > > > > > > forgotten to check this out.It must certainly increase the
> > > risk of
> > > > > leaks.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The last remark is a bit in line with the previous one. The
> > > container
> > > > > > > for the LHM fluid is close to the exhaust manifold. I have
> > > draped the
> > > > > > > (good looking stainless steel) manifold with heat reducing
> > > tape`, but
> > > > > > > I am sure otherwise the manifold will become red hot when driving
> > > > > long
> > > > > > > distances. So the cooling of the LHM fluid in the container
> > > may also
> > > > > > > be a problem. If the basic level of the fluid is lower in the
> > > > > > > container, the risk of leaks etc increases.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I am not a great technician, but I am sure one of our fellow
> > > members
> > > > > > > will be able to comment on my findings
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Best regards,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Jacob
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

The fronts pads are the same as a Pantera and the rears are a very common
pattern but I don't remember what they are (BMW?). I'm certain it's all
described in one of the many interchange lists that have been floating around
for the last 25 years.  If you drive it really hard at the track you can
certainly burn up a set of pads. I've seen that happen. I always used the stock
pads (Textar) on mine. Since they're a Pantera pattern those guys must have a
ton of things to suggest.

Bob S.

--- In maserati@yahoogroups.com, tig <tig@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> Western Hemispheres put the sphere and O ring on the regulator, and they
> seem to have it right.  The big leak and the source of the problem seems
> to have been the supply side hoseclamp at the top of the regulator.
> When I finally got a chance to run the car in my driveway the major leak
> became evident in minutes.  There may still be some minor leaks... I
> replaced the pump and have been chasing "weakest point" leaks for a
> couple of months.  All the brake lines have been recently replaced with
> stainless braid covered lines.  The steel LHM lines were OK when I put
> everything back together last year... the ones on the subframe were
> replaced.
>
> One leak is in the left front caliper (again), so after rebuilding it I
> plan to replace the pads (probably front only, the rears seem to be
> fine).  Do you... or does anyone... have suggestions as to the most
> desireable brake pad composition, given that I don't often get to drive
> very hard and would prefer not to have to warm up the brakes for road
> use.  Also keeping in mind that I hope to get some track time with the
> car.
>
> Thanks to all who sent suggestions. Without this community sharing its
> experience many of us wouldn't even attempt to work on  - or even own -
> these cars.
>
> Tom
> AM101.1624
> AM117.49.586
>
> staatsof wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi Tom,
> >
> > In my case I got the O-ring on cockeyed one time and so it did not
> > seal properly. Made quite the mess as well as causing a small but very
> > sooty fire with no damage.
> >
> > I don't know the state of you Bora so you may have already replaced
> > those brake lines I mentioned but if you haven't please do check them
> > at the securing tabs. I know of several Boras that all had this
> > problem at the same exact spots.
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> > Bob S.
> >
> > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > tig <tig@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Bob,
> > >
> > > I got a chance to do some checking today and found a severe leak near
> > > the top of the regulator (main accumulator). Now I have a location, but
> > > haven't determined the source yet... likely the very O ring you're
> > > talking about. There are remnants of a couple of other rubbers washers
> > > there, too.
> > >
> > > BTW, the "smoke" was contained inside the reservoir but carrying a
> > halon
> > > extinguisher is always a good idea and I carry one at all times.
> > > Anyway, it seems that a leak developed suddenly, causing the LHM in the
> > > tank to deplete to the point that the pickup could no longer suck oil.
> > > This caused the pump to make radical noises and caused heat to build in
> > > the system, which then returned very hot LHM to the tank. I haven't
> > > been able to duplicate the problem, but then I'm not anxious to run the
> > > pump with insufficient oil.
> > >
> > > I'll keep everyone posted in the hopes that what I find might be of
> > help
> > > to someone else.
> > >
> > > Tom
> > > AM101.1624
> > > AM117.49.586
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > staatsof wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I've driven my Bora in 100F conditions for long periods of time and
> > > > the LHM tank doesn't boil the fluid due to proximity of the headers
> > > > but I did add a heat shield over the headers for good measure after
> > > > owning the car for a year. I suspect that you have a simple leak
> > > > somewhere and when that get's on the headers it will start a very
> > > > smoky fire so do be careful. Been there! I always carry a 15lb Halon
> > > > extinghuisher. It saved my car once already.
> > > >
> > > > You might want to check your main accumulator (the grapefruit sized
> > > > one and make certain that the sealing O-ring is good and that its
> > > > tight. There are plenty of others spots to check as well. At these
> > > > pressures a small leak will cause a big mess in a hurry. You should
> > > > have a lot more than 1.5" of fluid in your reservoir. It's more like
> > > > 3" from the top. My tank has a translucent side pipe to monitor the
> > > > fluid level.
> > > >
> > > > There is is a well know fault with the brake lines in these cars
> > which
> > > > should be looked at by ALL OWNERS if you haven't done it yet.
> > > > On the rear subframe the brake line runs along the the top of the
> > > > longitudinal frame members on both sides. It's directly below the
> > > > headers where it's quite toasty. These steel brake lines are held in
> > > > place with folded metal tabs wrapped around a vinyl sleeve that
> > covers
> > > > the brake line. The vinyl deteriorates and possibly this causes
> > > > accelerated corrosion? When I re-did my engine compartment my brake
> > > > line fell into two pieces at that spot and at that time my car was 10
> > > > years old with very low miles on it.
> > > >
> > > > You might have a leak from one of these spots.
> > > >
> > > > Bob S.
> > > >
> > > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > > tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Thank you for the suggestions, Jacob. I will look into each of them
> > > > > and let everyone know when I finally isolate the problem.
> > > > >
> > > > > Tom
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > jacobremijnse wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Guys,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I have been reading about the problems with the LHM fluid. I have
> > > > been
> > > > > > driving my Bora for quite some time now and I have had no problems
> > > > > > with the exceptions of minor leaks. In my case the whole hydraulic
> > > > > > system was also completely overhauled.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > When rebuilding the hydraulic system we came to some remarks. The
> > > > > > container for the LHM fluid is quite large when taking into
> > account
> > > > > > the maximum marker for the fluid. My level of LHM is always
> > above the
> > > > > > maximum and I also carry a spare supply of 2 cans in the side
> > panels.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Another conclusion is that the piping of the hydraulic system is
> > > > light
> > > > > > and thin. The piping is kept as far away from the engine as
> > possible,
> > > > > > but the engine heat that is produced is formidable, even more
> > so on
> > > > > > long runs. I do not know the boiling point of LHM, but so far
> > I have
> > > > > > forgotten to check this out.It must certainly increase the
> > risk of
> > > > leaks.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The last remark is a bit in line with the previous one. The
> > container
> > > > > > for the LHM fluid is close to the exhaust manifold. I have
> > draped the
> > > > > > (good looking stainless steel) manifold with heat reducing
> > tape`, but
> > > > > > I am sure otherwise the manifold will become red hot when driving
> > > > long
> > > > > > distances. So the cooling of the LHM fluid in the container
> > may also
> > > > > > be a problem. If the basic level of the fluid is lower in the
> > > > > > container, the risk of leaks etc increases.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I am not a great technician, but I am sure one of our fellow
> > members
> > > > > > will be able to comment on my findings
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Best regards,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jacob
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hi Bob,

Western Hemispheres put the sphere and O ring on the regulator, and they
seem to have it right.  The big leak and the source of the problem seems
to have been the supply side hoseclamp at the top of the regulator.
When I finally got a chance to run the car in my driveway the major leak
became evident in minutes.  There may still be some minor leaks... I
replaced the pump and have been chasing "weakest point" leaks for a
couple of months.  All the brake lines have been recently replaced with
stainless braid covered lines.  The steel LHM lines were OK when I put
everything back together last year... the ones on the subframe were
replaced.

One leak is in the left front caliper (again), so after rebuilding it I
plan to replace the pads (probably front only, the rears seem to be
fine).  Do you... or does anyone... have suggestions as to the most
desireable brake pad composition, given that I don't often get to drive
very hard and would prefer not to have to warm up the brakes for road
use.  Also keeping in mind that I hope to get some track time with the
car.

Thanks to all who sent suggestions. Without this community sharing its
experience many of us wouldn't even attempt to work on  - or even own -
these cars.

Tom
AM101.1624
AM117.49.586

staatsof wrote:
>
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> In my case I got the O-ring on cockeyed one time and so it did not
> seal properly. Made quite the mess as well as causing a small but very
> sooty fire with no damage.
>
> I don't know the state of you Bora so you may have already replaced
> those brake lines I mentioned but if you haven't please do check them
> at the securing tabs. I know of several Boras that all had this
> problem at the same exact spots.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Bob S.
>
> --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> tig <tig@...> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Bob,
> >
> > I got a chance to do some checking today and found a severe leak near
> > the top of the regulator (main accumulator). Now I have a location, but
> > haven't determined the source yet... likely the very O ring you're
> > talking about. There are remnants of a couple of other rubbers washers
> > there, too.
> >
> > BTW, the "smoke" was contained inside the reservoir but carrying a
> halon
> > extinguisher is always a good idea and I carry one at all times.
> > Anyway, it seems that a leak developed suddenly, causing the LHM in the
> > tank to deplete to the point that the pickup could no longer suck oil.
> > This caused the pump to make radical noises and caused heat to build in
> > the system, which then returned very hot LHM to the tank. I haven't
> > been able to duplicate the problem, but then I'm not anxious to run the
> > pump with insufficient oil.
> >
> > I'll keep everyone posted in the hopes that what I find might be of
> help
> > to someone else.
> >
> > Tom
> > AM101.1624
> > AM117.49.586
> >
> >
> >
> > staatsof wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I've driven my Bora in 100F conditions for long periods of time and
> > > the LHM tank doesn't boil the fluid due to proximity of the headers
> > > but I did add a heat shield over the headers for good measure after
> > > owning the car for a year. I suspect that you have a simple leak
> > > somewhere and when that get's on the headers it will start a very
> > > smoky fire so do be careful. Been there! I always carry a 15lb Halon
> > > extinghuisher. It saved my car once already.
> > >
> > > You might want to check your main accumulator (the grapefruit sized
> > > one and make certain that the sealing O-ring is good and that its
> > > tight. There are plenty of others spots to check as well. At these
> > > pressures a small leak will cause a big mess in a hurry. You should
> > > have a lot more than 1.5" of fluid in your reservoir. It's more like
> > > 3" from the top. My tank has a translucent side pipe to monitor the
> > > fluid level.
> > >
> > > There is is a well know fault with the brake lines in these cars
> which
> > > should be looked at by ALL OWNERS if you haven't done it yet.
> > > On the rear subframe the brake line runs along the the top of the
> > > longitudinal frame members on both sides. It's directly below the
> > > headers where it's quite toasty. These steel brake lines are held in
> > > place with folded metal tabs wrapped around a vinyl sleeve that
> covers
> > > the brake line. The vinyl deteriorates and possibly this causes
> > > accelerated corrosion? When I re-did my engine compartment my brake
> > > line fell into two pieces at that spot and at that time my car was 10
> > > years old with very low miles on it.
> > >
> > > You might have a leak from one of these spots.
> > >
> > > Bob S.
> > >
> > > --- In maserati@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:maserati%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > > tig <tig@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thank you for the suggestions, Jacob. I will look into each of them
> > > > and let everyone know when I finally isolate the problem.
> > > >
> > > > Tom
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > jacobremijnse wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi Guys,
> > > > >
> > > > > I have been reading about the problems with the LHM fluid. I have
> > > been
> > > > > driving my Bora for quite some time now and I have had no problems
> > > > > with the exceptions of minor leaks. In my case the whole hydraulic
> > > > > system was also completely overhauled.
> > > > >
> > > > > When rebuilding the hydraulic system we came to some remarks. The
> > > > > container for the LHM fluid is quite large when taking into
> account
> > > > > the maximum marker for the fluid. My level of LHM is always
> above the
> > > > > maximum and I also carry a spare supply of 2 cans in the side
> panels.
> > > > >
> > > > > Another conclusion is that the piping of the hydraulic system is
> > > light
> > > > > and thin. The piping is kept as far away from the engine as
> possible,
> > > > > but the engine heat that is produced is formidable, even more
> so on
> > > > > long runs. I do not know the boiling point of LHM, but so far
> I have
> > > > > forgotten to check this out.It must certainly increase the
> risk of
> > > leaks.
> > > > >
> > > > > The last remark is a bit in line with the previous one. The
> container
> > > > > for the LHM fluid is close to the exhaust manifold. I have
> draped the
> > > > > (good looking stainless steel) manifold with heat reducing
> tape`, but
> > > > > I am sure otherwise the manifold will become red hot when driving
> > > long
> > > > > distances. So the cooling of the LHM fluid in the container
> may also
> > > > > be a problem. If the basic level of the fluid is lower in the
> > > > > container, the risk of leaks etc increases.
> > > > >
> > > > > I am not a great technician, but I am sure one of our fellow
> members
> > > > > will be able to comment on my findings
> > > > >
> > > > > Best regards,
> > > > >
> > > > > Jacob
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]