"I'm absolutely gob-smacked to hear that a 250 Piaggio weighs 450 pounds."

That does seem very heavy. My Honda CN-250 Helix only weighed 350 pounds, and it
was a BIG, long-wheelbase bike.

Andy Baird
http://www.andybaird.com/travels/

Off topic a bit, Bob, but what you bought is almost exactly what we're looking
for, maybe up to two years older.

If you'd be willing to share (by private message if you prefer) I have three
questions:

1. How much did you pay for it and what % of the asking price was the final
deal?
2. How long did you have to look before you found it?
3. How far afield did you have to go to find it?

We're keen to get a late 90s RB or RK 26.5 and they seem to be scarcer than
hen's teeth. I'm reluctant to travel several hundred miles to see one where the
owner is so out of reach on asking price as to be ridiculous, and many of them
seem to be.

I'd prefer to get a Triton-engined rig as I had very bad experiences with a 460
in a previous Class C. Admittedly it was a carburator-equipped 1985 rig and
wasn't an LD.

Having worked in the UK motorcycle industry for a while, I'm absolutely
gob-smacked to hear that a 250 Piaggio weighs 450 pounds. My 1958 Vespa 150
didn't exceed 180 pounds wringing wet. The Norton Commando 750 motorcycle I was
involved in developing only weighed 380 lb. On one occasion, I rode the
prototype on to a weighbridge and with my skinny 160 lb included, it weighed in
at less than 530 lb (it was low on gas, though).

--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel" <danzoll93003@...> wrote:
>
> Just completed a month trip to East Coast and the last day or so, I could not
start the generator from the inside control panel. However could start it by the
switch on the generator. The control panel switch would shut it down tho.
> Need advice on how to trouble shoot the problem.
> Dan Zoll
>

Found the Problem.
The trouble shoot effort went like this: Reviewed the Onan document and noted
that there should be 12 vdc on the START line to the control switch in the
control panel. There was no voltage there. Went to the connector in the
generator compartment and there was no voltage on the appropriate pin from the
Onan generator. Hence the problem is not a broken wire between the generator and
control panel and must be internal to the generator.  Since I don't feel
qualified to dig into the inside of the generator, had to take it to Onan repair
shop.

Their verdict: "Found Bad Connection in Start Wire, Replaced All Butt
Connectors"

Can now start the generator from the inside.
Dan Zoll

--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, "Timothy" <macgrg@...> wrote:
>
> We have a 2007 RB and tow a Jeep Liberty. I plan to buy a Piaggio 250 MP3
which weighs 450lbs. I am going to have the hitch support improved by a welding
shop. Anyone see any serious problems?
>

W have a 23.5 TK, so not quite the same overhang.  We use a Versa Haul carrier,
which is very heavy duty.  It carries a Piaggio 250 Sport City just fine.  The
only problem we ever have is exiting our steep driveway.  We have to drive very
carefully to not scrape. Otherwise, I wouldn't even notice that the scooter was
there.

Martha

When I think of first aid for a bunch of aging people I now think portable
defibrillators. Now you can get one for about $1200.  :)

--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, Don Malpas <dmalpas@...> wrote:
>
> We don't engage in risky activities, but accidents can happen.
> We tend to go to remote places where medical care is distant.
>
> We carry a large bag of medical supplies. Fortunately we have never
> had need to use them. Neither of us have ever been trained in basic
> first aid. So I am positive that we either don't have all that is
> needed in the kit or if we do have it, we probably don't know how to
> properly use it.
>
> There are hundreds of medical kits available for purchase. But, I
> wonder if any of them are better suited for us than what we have
> accumulated.
>
> Any professionals out there that can point us in the right direction
> for 1) acquiring basic first aid knowledge 2) what to have for
> emergencies that might happen while say hiking or jeeping in the
> outback.
>
>
>
> Cheers, Don
> ¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø,¸¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø
>

I think that the risk to rv'ers of attack necessitating the use of a gun is
extremely low.  My bet the risk of making a horrible mistake or having a
horrible accident are much higher. Imagine living with that.  I remember once
many years ago when I was about 16 I went camping with my cousin.  Somehow I got
some kind of horrible intestinal illness and struggled out of the tent to find a
washroom.  Instead, in my daze and pain I ended up pounding on the side of
someone's motorhome in the middle of the night.  Fortunately, they did not over
react but instead helped me when I was very ill. Thank goodness they weren't
twitchy with either a firearm or pepper spray.

Martha (after a several year absence from this fine forum).

--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, "iamcraw" <iamcraw@...> wrote:
>
>
> Better to be Judged by 12 than carried by 6. When I bought my used LD I was
doing some cleaning and found out what the previous owners carried, I found a
beautiful hollow point 45 caliber round. If that dont stop them nothing will. I
carry a Smith and Wesson model 640 in 357 caliber that is loaded with 38 rounds
it has a internal hammer so it wont snag when its tucked in my pocket. The
recoil is mild and the ammo is cheap, stopping power is adequate. In a perfect
world we could all get along but reality is that there are predators and there
is prey, I prefer me and my family not be prey.
>
> Craig
>

> <<Were you connected to city water at the time?>>
>
> Yes I was Steve... Why?
>

Leakage at that point could be caused by a failing inlet, or other issues. If
NOT connected to city water, then high pressure from the water heater warming up
can cause problems at the built-in check valve. If you ARE connected, then you
can add the possibility of excessive pressure on the supply line causing leakage
also.

Steve

Everyone said it is a "pain" so he said pay someone to do it!
When I read the book on how to do it, I made the same decision.
Then I found out how much it would cost.

I'm a retired school teacher. Time is always available, money may not be.

If it takes me a couple of days, so be it,  just so it gets done.
Thanks to all
     GP

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, "Ellen" <ed.cottonwood@...> wrote:
>
> "Would anyone know how hard it is to replace the city water inlet?
> I have the old grey water tubing. Thanks in advance:)
> I really appreciate all the knowledge this group so generously
> offers each and every day."
>
>
>
> Ellen
>
Ellen, go to message 102396 for a complete description of city water inlet
replacement.

Chris

"Am I missing something?"

Rich

I have had enough run-ins with tree branches to know how damaging they can be.
Mounting the solar panels low to the roof, while still providing a small air
gap, keeps the panels out of harm's way.
Tree branches can quickly destroy a panel if a branch gets stuck under a panel
wile underway.
Mounting the panel on the luggage rack would place it higher, increasing its
exposure to tree branches.

I would rather remove the luggage rack, if necessary to prevent shadowing, than
to mount it on the rack.
As far as I am concerned, the rack has no utility (other than a good place to
mount a Wilson Trucker antenna).
The Factory seems to agree; they no longer install them on new LDs.

Larry

Indeed, Mountain Lions attack from the rear. They are an ambush animal. I have
been tracked many times by a cougar but never attacked. I've seen one ambush a
deer, leaping on it's back, biting the head to bring it down so that it could
come around and rip out the throat then eviscerate it with hind claws.

This is the fate that awaits the unwary hiker, especially if you bend over to
tie your bootlace, or re-attach the chain on your mountain bike. Or if you limp
(nothing looks tastier to a cougar than a lame animal!)

Seldom happens that a cougar attacks from the front, but it did happen once to
my friend Vladimir Dinets, who continued to shoot his camera during the attack!
You can see it here and read about it at the bottom of the page:

http://dinets.travel.ru/wildcats.htm

Best nature website on the net!

Another friend, K, lives in cougar country and regularly sees them just walking
to his mailbox. Being a scholar, he has collected every accounting of cougar
attacks on humans. They always attack from the rear, lock their jaws on the
head, then come around to tear out the throat. Guns are useless. Surprisingly,
knives are ineffective, as are clubs and rocks. What seems to work is getting
thumbs or fingers in the animals eyes (even little 11 yr. old girls have stopped
a cougar attack this way). I propose to use the pepper spray at that time, just
to survive.

As for human intruders, when I was young I was averse to shooting people because
of my hunting training, but now, at 72, I'd have no reluctance to blast away,
knowing that some young toughs target old guys just like they target women. I've
developed some intolerance and more of a don't-give-a-damn attitude.

Would anyone know how hard it is to replace the city water inlet?
I have the old grey water tubing. Thanks in advance:)
I really appreciate all the knowledge this group so generously
offers each and every day.

We where really excited to meet Michelle and her hubby in there
beautiful blue 2005 30' Island Bed LD this weekend. Have a happy and safe
Journey!


Ellen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009, bumperm wrote:

> For determining what size panel vs. how many, a major consideration is
   roof layout and room for future panel additions. Doesn't make much sense
   to put panels up there so as to waste space.
>
> The panels should be laid out so they will be easy to clean.
>
> bumper

I wonder if anyone has mounted panels on the luggage rack.  It seems to me
to be a good place for easy cleaning (from the ladder), away from anything
that would create a shadow, and would allow for good air flow to keep them
cool.  Only down side I can come up with is maybe a little longer cable
run to the controler (depending on the LD model) and not having the rack
available for luggage (which I doubt if many of us use for that purpose).
Am I missing something?

Rich Gort - 2000 MB - Birch Bay, WA

I too am having to have the heater coil replaced on my 92 FL.  600-800 is the
quote.  We have already by passed the coil to be able to drive it in without it
leaking all over the carpet....all the suggestions are appreciated.  This was
one job my husband who can fix everything did not want to tackle.  Everyone said
it is a "pain"  so he said pay someone to do it!

Darlene
AlaDar Beagles
www.aladarbeagles.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

"I thought the replacement of choice for the old rv-30s my '98 IB has
was the HPV-22B. Now I see Andy's suggestion for the Progressive
Industries 45 amp charger."

Gina

Go with the HPV-22B controller for your new panels.

The Progressive Industries 45 amp charger is one choice for replacement but
there are even more powerful replacements that will fit.
Two years ago, I changed ours to a Progressive Dynamics PS9270C 70-amp
converter. It quickly recharges the battery, nice if you need to use the
generator for charging.
<http://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157603671199053/>
<http://www.bestconverter.com/70-Amp-RV-ConverterCharger_p_172.html>

Larry

"Now I have to replace the heater core. The directions start with "First remove
the dash..." Removing the dash is a major event to me, so I have been looking
for any other tasks that should be done while I have it off."

George

I changed the heater core in my 1983 LD and it was a big project.
All of the suggestions are right on...speakers and dash lights.
Lube or replace the speedometer cable while you are in there.
Lube the levers and cables controlling the heater and A/C.

I would suggest finding a factory service manual (FSM), if possible. It shows
where and what fasteners must be removed and in the proper order. It makes
things just a little be easier and a lot less likely that you will break
something thinking it should come out when there are still hidden fasteners that
need to be removed.
Another tip is to take digital photos before of anything that may be difficult
to reassemble.
You want to remove the front seats for better access.
Allow a full day for this and get a box of Band-Aids and a tube of Neosporin for
all the little cuts and scrapes.
DIY repairs can be a blood sport <g>.

Have fun!
Larry

For determining what size panel vs. how many, a major consideration is roof
layout and room for future panel additions. Doesn't make much sense to put
panels up there so as to waste space.

What I did is get the panel measurements, then head up there with a tape measure
and see how they would fit. You'll need to keep in mind that you want the panels
mounted so they won't be in the shade of the air conditioner or other items.
You'll also want to maintain a pathway from front to back. The panels should be
laid out so they will be easy to clean.

bumper

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Gini Free
   To: lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:41 AM
   Subject: [LD] replacement advice




   I thought the replacement of choice for the old rv-30s my '98 IB has
   was the HPV-22B. Now I see Andy's suggestion for the Progressive
   Industries 45 amp charger.
   Knowing I plan on upgrading to two 100w AM Solar panels, which
   charger do you think would be the best for my sit up? And, any
   preference for the battery monitor? Link 10 or Xantrex or ?
   I see where I could get bigger panels, or, go to three, but I thought
   that with the original 2 /6 volts, that it would be a waste to have
   more panels without swapping out my batteries--something I'm not
   ready to do at this time--not good at fabrication, etc, to make room
   for the AGMs

   I plan on going up soon, so suggestions greatly appreciated.

   ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
   Gini Free and Junah, canine xtrodinaire
   "Kooch" our little red home on wheels
   "Growing old is mandatory. Growing wise is optional."

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> Removing the dash is a major event to me, so I have been looking for any other
tasks that should be done while I have it off.
>

If considering upgrading the dash speakers, this is the time...

Steve

> I thought the replacement of choice for the old rv-30s my '98 IB has
> was the HPV-22B. Now I see Andy's suggestion for the Progressive
> Industries 45 amp charger.

*************************

These are two different things.

the HPV-22B is a solar controller; the Progressive is a converter/charger.

Linda Hylton
http://map.datastormusers.com/user1.cfm?user=1167
http://earl-linda.blogspot.com/

..... Tom? ? ? ?  Tom Clancy ? ? ? ? ? Is that you?
Why are you using the name of Terry?

And why on earth are you traveling around in a 2003 26.6' MB and not the New
Zodiak??? With the money you make from those great novels you write, the Zodiak
is more to your style...

And why pick Gardnerville, NV? ? ?

Oh, I get it!!! This was actually a preview of your New novel you are currently
writing... Nice, very nice!!!

Keep up the good work!!

Ed Klaus (Oops, Sgt Major Sikes here!)




--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, tlburnes <no_reply@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Here is what I do. I select my parking spot for good line of site to all
> other encampments and other places where people might hole up. If
> there is any vegetation in the way I hack it off with my machete.
>
> Then I remove my shoulder fired missile from the under couch locker
> where I carry it, hoist it up to my shoulder and parade around camp
> two or three times, until everyone nearby has seen me clearly.
>
> Then, when I return to the LD I mount the machine gun that I carry
> (I live in Nevada, so like Bumper said, it's OK) in the turret that I have
> installed on the roof just to the rear of the escape hatch over our
> bed. Clever, eh?

Chuck

I thought the replacement of choice for the old rv-30s my '98 IB has
was the HPV-22B. Now I see Andy's suggestion for the Progressive
Industries 45 amp charger.
Knowing I plan on upgrading to two 100w AM Solar panels, which
charger do you think would be the best for my sit up? And, any
preference for the battery monitor? Link 10 or Xantrex or ?
I see where I could get bigger panels, or, go to three, but I thought
that with the original 2 /6 volts, that it would be a waste to have
more panels without swapping out my batteries--something I'm not
ready to do at this time--not good at fabrication, etc, to make room
for the AGMs

I plan on going up soon, so suggestions greatly appreciated.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Gini Free and Junah, canine xtrodinaire
   "Kooch" our little red home on wheels
"Growing old is mandatory. Growing wise is optional."

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Nice job on the pocket Guide Andy.

There is an addition that needs to be made in the specification section (also in
files). During the early '70s LD offered a Ford chassis as well as the Dodge. I
don't know the specific years but in '72 when we bought our first LD the Ford
chassis was available. I'm sure the factory could clear this up.

Ron in Ohio
2000 MB diesel

--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, "Andy" <andybaird@...> wrote:
>
> Speaking of applications for the iPhone/iPod touch, I've just posted one on my
website: the "Lazy Daze Pocket Guide."
>
> I wanted to pull together the answers to some of the most commonly asked
questions, such as what the various floorplans look like, when changes were
made, how to decipher tire date codes, and so on. Most of this information is
already available, either here on Yahoo or on the Lazy Daze company website, but
I've put the essentials in one place, for use as a quick reference.
>
> My Lazy Daze Pocket Guide is a "web app," which means it's really just a
website formatted for the iPhone/iPod touch screen. Actually, though, anybody
can view it with any web browser--it'll just look skinny on your big screen. :-)
>
> <http://www.andybaird.com/travels/LD-guide-web/>
>
> I hope you find it useful.
>
> Andy Baird
> http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
>

Assuming you are on Chevy G30 chassis, I had my heater core replaced by a Chevy
dealer for $700 probably 5 years or more ago.  They said when GM built the van,
they started with the heater core, and built the rest of the van around it.  I
thought they started with the exhaust manifold!

I installed dash 4 x 6 speakers, it was a tough but doable job,  assuming you
don't mind giving some blood and skin.  You can just squeeze a small diameter
screwdriver through the dash opening to tighten the speaker screws up.  I took a
dremmel tool and a big hammer, and cut out the radio shaft area, so I could
install a DIN type radio, this was an easier job than the speakers.  A radio
with a remote and an aux input is nice. You can then plug the TV into the radio
for better sound.

I'd replace all the dashboard lights at the same time, speedo, gauges, turn
signal indicators, etc. Get a package of a dozen bulbs, and do them all while
access is easy.  They are all probably pretty blackened and dim by now.

Ed

--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, George Peters <ibgp3@...> wrote:
>
> The heater core on our '84 RD blew out on a recent trip. Bypassing a heater
core is probably the easiest emergency road repair, so the trip went on with a
half hour delay.
> Now I have to replace the heater core. The directions start with "First remove
the dash..."
> Removing the dash is a major event to me, so I have been looking for any other
tasks that should be done while I have it off.
>
> Recommendations and other input would be appreciated.
> Thanks
>    GP
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I don't know of all these folks, but thanks anywho
Compiled by Eudoro Lemos, Jr.,

*************************

There's a name from the past!  Anyone heard from Eudoro lately?

Linda Hylton
http://map.datastormusers.com/user1.cfm?user=1167
http://earl-linda.blogspot.com/

Hi Bob,

Andy & Steve answered most of your questions.  The hum you hear near
the refrigerator most likely is coming from the convertor.  This is
located at the bottom of the power distribution panel at the floor
just forward of the refrig.  Mine did the same thing until I replaced
it with a whole house inverter and charger (Prosine 2000).

I have a 2000 rear bath.  If you have other questions feel free to
ask.  You can contact me direct at dgnabq at earthlink dot net.

Safe travels,

Dave N
2000 RB

On Nov 8, 2009, at 4:34 PM, bobewell175 wrote:

> We just got a used 2001 LD rear bath and I could sure use some help
> with electrics.
> 1) What does the battery charge tell on the panel-house or engine
> battery status(note I have two engine batteries as diesel)
>
> 2) How are the house batteries charged? I plugged into shore and the
> charge status on the panel was fair after two days being plugged in.
> When I ran the generator I saw little change, but when I started the
> engine it went to fully charged in less that 20 minutes. I am
> confused.
>
> 3) Why when I am on generator or shore power are the lights brighter-
> is this just the way it is or are my batteries not fully charged.
>
> 4) I have a hum in area of coach near fridge(everything of in coach)
> when on shore power-is this just the inverter or do I need to check
> this out?
>
> 5) What is the cheapest, quickest way to charge house batteries and
> how long does this take?
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
> Bob
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Andy,

Thank you for your help.

Bob

--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, "Andy" <andybaird@...> wrote:
>
> "What does the battery charge tell on the panel--house or engine battery
status?"
>
> House battery status... but the LED bargraph readout isn't especially accurate
or useful. You need a Link-10 or similar  battery monitor to really know what's
going on with your batteries. (Why didn't the factory include one? Because it
costs about $200 plus installation labor. Well worth it, though, in the opinions
of those of us who have them.)
>
> "How are the house batteries charged?"
>
> While driving, they're charged by the engine's alternator, which does a pretty
good job at road speeds but a poor job when idling. (Hence, running the engine
while parked isn't a very effective way to charge the batteries.)
>
> When you're plugged into "shore power" or running the generator, the house
batteries are charged by the converter/charger. But your 2001 coach has the old,
inefficient Magnetek 6345 converter, which only puts 6 amps into the
batteries... so as you observed, you'd have to run the generator forever to
fully charge them. Solution: replace the converter with a Progressive Industries
45 amp charger (see our website's archives for detailed info in previous posts).
>
> Of course, the house batteries can also be charged by solar panels, if you
have those.
>
> "Why when I am on generator or shore power are the lights brighter--is this
just the way it is or are my batteries not fully charged?"
>
> Could be the batteries aren't fully charged. How old are they? If they're the
original batteries, they're probably nearing the end of their lifespan. Have you
checked their fluid levels? Lack of water will reduce their ability to hold a
charge.
>
> "I have a hum in area of coach near fridge (everything off in coach) when on
shore power-is this just the inverter or do I need to check this out?"
>
> It could be the inverter--I'm not sure where it's located in your rear bath,
but on some models (e.g., midbath), it's under the fridge. There should be an
inverter switch near the TV set; try turning it off and see whether the hum goes
away. The hum could also be due to your 6345 converter/charger--those old ones
consisted mainly of a big transformer, so they did tend to hum.
>
> "What is the cheapest, quickest way to charge house batteries and how long
does this take?"
>
> In your case, the quickest way to charge them is to drive. (As noted earlier,
just idling the engine while parked doesn't do a good job.) If you plan to
boondock a lot, solar panels are a great enhancement, though not cheap. On the
other hand, if you spend a lot of time plugged in, a new converter/charger will
tremendously increase the rate of charging.
>
> Andy Baird
> http://www.andybaird.com/travels/
>

<<The heater core on our '84 RD blew out on a recent trip.>>

This happened to us recently in our 1986 FL LD and we took the opportunity
to replace
the speakers.

Ellen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The heater core on our '84 RD blew out on a recent trip. Bypassing a heater core
is probably the easiest emergency road repair, so the trip went on with a half
hour delay.
Now I have to replace the heater core. The directions start with "First remove
the dash..."
Removing the dash is a major event to me, so I have been looking for any other
tasks that should be done while I have it off.

Recommendations and other input would be appreciated.
Thanks
    GP

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In lifewithalazydazerv@yahoogroups.com, "jctaylor1941" <jctaylor1941@...>
wrote:
<
<I just put an excerpt from a seminar that I've presented on "Safety Tips"; it's
titled "Safe Traveling Excerpt" and is located in the "RVing Resources" folder
in the "Files" section of the board.

Joan, thanks for posting this good, common sense information.

Sharon N.
Crossville, TN