Guys,

Have a mighty crack appearing between the cat and the tail pipe.
Essentially, I have to replace the Cat backwards.  Any recommendations
on what do do and where to get in the UK (preferrably in Scotland).  I
would hopefully like to get this done pretty quick (before the tail end
falls off).

Thanks guys,

Stan

Hunting at idle sounds very much like AFM or BOV. When I had my AFM problem, it
threw code 23's at me. If the BOV is not closing properly, there's an issue with
idle and also boost leaking out of course.
Good luck with this
Cheers
Steve


----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Julian <paul@...>
To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 12:26:28 AM
Subject: [B4] BG5 Probs....Still


Hi Guys, I am still having problems with my BG5 twin turbo.
Just wondering if I pop some info into here if anybody has any ideas.

Symptoms are:
- Surging up and down when running on primary turbo under medium throttle,
but any throttle really will do it.
- As soon as secondary kicks in everything runs smooth and more power, even
though boost is only 0.5 bar when primary is running, and 0.5 bar when both
turbos are running
- At idle the engine hunts up and down a bit, probably up to around 1500 rpm
sometimes
- Primary won't boost past .5-.6 bar, even with wastegate disconnected.
- Total boost won't exceed 0.6 bar even with both wastegates disconnected
and running hard all the way to redline
- Engine runs fine at idle except hunting intermittantly, smooth and quiet

What I have done:
- Replaced primary turbo with second hand unit (we think it's OK, but not
100% sure)
- Removed all pressure hoses and refitted, including new silicon hose from
secondary to intercooler
- Done ECU checks to ensure all valves operating correctly etc
- Replaced primary boost controller with bleed valve only
- Reset ECU many times

Initial thoughts are the primary is stuffed, but I have replaced it and the
symptoms are identical.
Second thoughts are compression is down, but this does not explain the
virtual switching on of the secondary. If I hold a medium throttle from say
2000 rpm right through to 6000 rpm I get the surging up and down of the
primary and 0.5 bar of boost until about 4000 rpm, then when the secondary
kicks in it's like somebody has turned a switch on, there is this instant
increase in power with no extra boost showing on the guage, and the whole
car changes and becomes smooth and powerful like it should be, so if there
was a compression problem I would not expect it to run perfectly when the
secondary kicks in either.

I know it's hard to diagnose a problem like this over the net, but I'm
hoping that somebody may have had a similar problem previously and can share
some thoughts.

My next step is to replace the solonoid box which I have a spare one of,
compression tests, and a new or rebuilt primary turbo. The turbo is going to
cost a bomb, and I don't have any cash right now, so the others will come
first, but it just feels like a mechanical problem rather than an electronic
one.

Thanks in advance

Regards
Paul






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Nope, haven't check A/F and no codes except the odd 66 which has always been
coming up.

Regards
Paul

   _____

From: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com [mailto:legacyb4@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of Matthew Grove
Sent: Saturday, 19 May 2007 10:24 AM
To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [B4] BG5 Probs....Still



Have you looked at the air/fuel ratios to see if the engine is running
rich/lean?

Any CELs?

Paul Julian wrote:

>
>
> Hi Guys, I am still having problems with my BG5 twin turbo.
> Just wondering if I pop some info into here if anybody has any ideas.
>
> Symptoms are:
> - Surging up and down when running on primary turbo under medium
> throttle,
> but any throttle really will do it.
> - As soon as secondary kicks in everything runs smooth and more power,
> even
> though boost is only 0.5 bar when primary is running, and 0.5 bar when
> both
> turbos are running
> - At idle the engine hunts up and down a bit, probably up to around
> 1500 rpm
> sometimes
> - Primary won't boost past .5-.6 bar, even with wastegate
> disconnected.
> - Total boost won't exceed 0.6 bar even with both wastegates
> disconnected
> and running hard all the way to redline
> - Engine runs fine at idle except hunting intermittantly, smooth and
> quiet
>
> What I have done:
> - Replaced primary turbo with second hand unit (we think it's OK, but
> not
> 100% sure)
> - Removed all pressure hoses and refitted, including new silicon hose
> from
> secondary to intercooler
> - Done ECU checks to ensure all valves operating correctly etc
> - Replaced primary boost controller with bleed valve only
> - Reset ECU many times
>
> Initial thoughts are the primary is stuffed, but I have replaced it
> and the
> symptoms are identical.
> Second thoughts are compression is down, but this does not explain the
>
> virtual switching on of the secondary. If I hold a medium throttle
> from say
> 2000 rpm right through to 6000 rpm I get the surging up and down of
> the
> primary and 0.5 bar of boost until about 4000 rpm, then when the
> secondary
> kicks in it's like somebody has turned a switch on, there is this
> instant
> increase in power with no extra boost showing on the guage, and the
> whole
> car changes and becomes smooth and powerful like it should be, so if
> there
> was a compression problem I would not expect it to run perfectly when
> the
> secondary kicks in either.
>
> I know it's hard to diagnose a problem like this over the net, but I'm
>
> hoping that somebody may have had a similar problem previously and can
> share
> some thoughts.
>
> My next step is to replace the solonoid box which I have a spare one
> of,
> compression tests, and a new or rebuilt primary turbo. The turbo is
> going to
> cost a bomb, and I don't have any cash right now, so the others will
> come
> first, but it just feels like a mechanical problem rather than an
> electronic
> one.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Regards
> Paul
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Have you looked at the air/fuel ratios to see if the engine is running
rich/lean?

Any CELs?

Paul Julian wrote:

>
>
> Hi Guys, I am still having problems with my BG5 twin turbo.
> Just wondering if I pop some info into here if anybody has any ideas.
>
> Symptoms are:
> - Surging up and down when running on primary turbo under medium
> throttle,
> but any throttle really will do it.
> - As soon as secondary kicks in everything runs smooth and more power,
> even
> though boost is only 0.5 bar when primary is running, and 0.5 bar when
> both
> turbos are running
> - At idle the engine hunts up and down a bit, probably up to around
> 1500 rpm
> sometimes
> - Primary won't boost past .5-.6 bar, even with wastegate
> disconnected.
> - Total boost won't exceed 0.6 bar even with both wastegates
> disconnected
> and running hard all the way to redline
> - Engine runs fine at idle except hunting intermittantly, smooth and
> quiet
>
> What I have done:
> - Replaced primary turbo with second hand unit (we think it's OK, but
> not
> 100% sure)
> - Removed all pressure hoses and refitted, including new silicon hose
> from
> secondary to intercooler
> - Done ECU checks to ensure all valves operating correctly etc
> - Replaced primary boost controller with bleed valve only
> - Reset ECU many times
>
> Initial thoughts are the primary is stuffed, but I have replaced it
> and the
> symptoms are identical.
> Second thoughts are compression is down, but this does not explain the
>
> virtual switching on of the secondary. If I hold a medium throttle
> from say
> 2000 rpm right through to 6000 rpm I get the surging up and down of
> the
> primary and 0.5 bar of boost until about 4000 rpm, then when the
> secondary
> kicks in it's like somebody has turned a switch on, there is this
> instant
> increase in power with no extra boost showing on the guage, and the
> whole
> car changes and becomes smooth and powerful like it should be, so if
> there
> was a compression problem I would not expect it to run perfectly when
> the
> secondary kicks in either.
>
> I know it's hard to diagnose a problem like this over the net, but I'm
>
> hoping that somebody may have had a similar problem previously and can
> share
> some thoughts.
>
> My next step is to replace the solonoid box which I have a spare one
> of,
> compression tests, and a new or rebuilt primary turbo. The turbo is
> going to
> cost a bomb, and I don't have any cash right now, so the others will
> come
> first, but it just feels like a mechanical problem rather than an
> electronic
> one.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Regards
> Paul
>

Hi Guys, I am still having problems with my BG5 twin turbo.
Just wondering if I pop some info into here if anybody has any ideas.

Symptoms are:
- Surging up and down when running on primary turbo under medium throttle,
but any throttle really will do it.
- As soon as secondary kicks in everything runs smooth and more power, even
though boost is only 0.5 bar when primary is running, and 0.5 bar when both
turbos are running
- At idle the engine hunts up and down a bit, probably up to around 1500 rpm
sometimes
- Primary won't boost past .5-.6 bar, even with wastegate disconnected.
- Total boost won't exceed 0.6 bar even with both wastegates disconnected
and running hard all the way to redline
- Engine runs fine at idle except hunting intermittantly, smooth and quiet

What I have done:
- Replaced primary turbo with second hand unit (we think it's OK, but not
100% sure)
- Removed all pressure hoses and refitted, including new silicon hose from
secondary to intercooler
- Done ECU checks to ensure all valves operating correctly etc
- Replaced primary boost controller with bleed valve only
- Reset ECU many times

Initial thoughts are the primary is stuffed, but I have replaced it and the
symptoms are identical.
Second thoughts are compression is down, but this does not explain the
virtual switching on of the secondary. If I hold a medium throttle from say
2000 rpm right through to 6000 rpm I get the surging up and down of the
primary and 0.5 bar of boost until about 4000 rpm, then when the secondary
kicks in it's like somebody has turned a switch on, there is this instant
increase in power with no extra boost showing on the guage, and the whole
car changes and becomes smooth and powerful like it should be, so if there
was a compression problem I would not expect it to run perfectly when the
secondary kicks in either.

I know it's hard to diagnose a problem like this over the net, but I'm
hoping that somebody may have had a similar problem previously and can share
some thoughts.

My next step is to replace the solonoid box which I have a spare one of,
compression tests, and a new or rebuilt primary turbo. The turbo is going to
cost a bomb, and I don't have any cash right now, so the others will come
first, but it just feels like a mechanical problem rather than an electronic
one.

Thanks in advance

Regards
Paul

Not sure about the 2000 model, but for the 2001-2003 B4, it uses a ce-net
connector (ie.  square plug).  I think it should be the same with the 2000
model.  Basically, if you see a Z in the model number of the Clarion stacker, it
should be ce-net supported.

grant9876uk <grant.revan@...> wrote:          There is a really useful
guide on how to install the CD changer in the
B4 but can anyone tell me if the Clarion 6 CD changer shown is a C -
Bus model with the round 13 pin connectors or the CE -BUS model which
I think has a Square connectors. Does anyone have a part number for
the clarion unit required.

Thanks

Grant






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

There is a really useful guide on how to install the CD changer in the
B4 but can anyone tell me if the Clarion 6 CD changer shown is a C -
Bus model with the round 13 pin connectors or the CE -BUS model which
I think has a Square connectors. Does anyone have a part number for
the clarion unit required.

Thanks

Grant

Thanks guys, I'll give these contacts a go and let you
know how I get on..

Appreciated.

Stan
--- Jeffrey Anderson <jeffreyanderson@...>
wrote:

> Stan,
>
> You can email this chap direct and ask him questions
> and get prices for
> parts etc.
>
> NAKAHARA [nakahara@...]
>
> He is a car parts supplier in Japan and can source
> all the relevant parts.
> He is competitive and delivery is quick. You will
> need to provide him with
> the chassis number of your car.
>
> I have used him on a couple of occasions and was
> very pleased with the
> service.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeffrey
>
>
>
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:legacyb4@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
> Of Stan
>   Sent: 21 February 2007 13:01
>   To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
>   Subject: [B4] B4 Blitzen Bumper Damage!!!
>
>
>   Hi all,
>
>   Need help!
>
>   Last week, driving to work early in the morning
> (before the gritters
>   arrived), I spun off the road and over the kerb
> and hit a brick wall,
>   which amazingly only tore off part of the left
> front bumper and no
>   other piece of the bofy work. No other cars
> involved too and it was
>   low speed collision. The car then spun around and
> to make matters
>   worse I backed into a post which damaged the ream
> bumper too!!
>
>   As many of you know, the bumpers are the parts
> which make the Blitzen
>   distinctive and now they are both shot. I think
> they are really
>   replacement jobs.
>
>   So, I did the honest things and contacted my
> dealer who then
>   contacted his agent guy in Japan. I am looking at
> pretty much a £
>   1000 for each bumper and £ 300 for shipping......
>
>   I have actually sourced a supplier of mouldings in
> New Zealand that
>   will do this for around £ 1000 all in, but
> delivery is long (1 month
>   atleast).
>
>   Anyway, my question is does anyone know of any
> bumper specialist here
>   in the UK that supply these items (I know I'll be
> looking at imported
>   items, but looking at getting these a bit
> cheaper). Also, if there
>   are any other moulding specialists or even
> contacts in Japan that i
>   could deal with direct for other quotes.
>
>   (I'll post the photos, but don't know how)...
>
>   Any help welcome (still haven't done my Edutek
> remap yet, but that
>   will come eventually).
>
>   Thanks,
>
>   Stan
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




___________________________________________________________
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Stan,

You can email this chap direct and ask him questions and get prices for
parts etc.

NAKAHARA [nakahara@...]

He is a car parts supplier in Japan and can source all the relevant parts.
He is competitive and delivery is quick. You will need to provide him with
the chassis number of your car.

I have used him on a couple of occasions and was very pleased with the
service.

Good luck.

Regards,

Jeffrey



   -----Original Message-----
   From: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com [mailto:legacyb4@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Stan
   Sent: 21 February 2007 13:01
   To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [B4] B4 Blitzen Bumper Damage!!!


   Hi all,

   Need help!

   Last week, driving to work early in the morning (before the gritters
   arrived), I spun off the road and over the kerb and hit a brick wall,
   which amazingly only tore off part of the left front bumper and no
   other piece of the bofy work. No other cars involved too and it was
   low speed collision. The car then spun around and to make matters
   worse I backed into a post which damaged the ream bumper too!!

   As many of you know, the bumpers are the parts which make the Blitzen
   distinctive and now they are both shot. I think they are really
   replacement jobs.

   So, I did the honest things and contacted my dealer who then
   contacted his agent guy in Japan. I am looking at pretty much a £
   1000 for each bumper and £ 300 for shipping......

   I have actually sourced a supplier of mouldings in New Zealand that
   will do this for around £ 1000 all in, but delivery is long (1 month
   atleast).

   Anyway, my question is does anyone know of any bumper specialist here
   in the UK that supply these items (I know I'll be looking at imported
   items, but looking at getting these a bit cheaper). Also, if there
   are any other moulding specialists or even contacts in Japan that i
   could deal with direct for other quotes.

   (I'll post the photos, but don't know how)...

   Any help welcome (still haven't done my Edutek remap yet, but that
   will come eventually).

   Thanks,

   Stan






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I got a [Blitzen [2002]] wheel via http://www.neweraparts.com/ and was happy
with the price, responsiveness and service.  They do some second hand parts too
which would be just the ticket.  Might be worth a try, but it's a long shot and
the chances are you'll end up paying full price for new parts from Subaru Japan.

I guess you've run into a key disadvantage of an imported special edition - my
commiserations with that.  However you'll have a fresh unscratched bumper for
your trouble, which is more than I can say :D

--Ruben
Ruben Bartelink | +353 86 885 2399

-------- Original Message --------
> From: "Stan" <stnlryralph@...>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 5:05 AM
> To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: WH4L-SPAM-LOW [B4] B4 Blitzen Bumper Damage!!!
>
> Hi all,
>
> Need help!
>
> Last week, driving to work early in the morning (before the gritters
> arrived), I spun off the road and over the kerb and hit a brick wall,
> which amazingly only tore off part of the left front bumper and no
> other piece of the bofy work. No other cars involved too and it was
> low speed collision. The car then spun around and to make matters
> worse I backed into a post which damaged the ream bumper too!!
>
> As many of you know, the bumpers are the parts which make the Blitzen
> distinctive and now they are both shot.  I think they are really
> replacement jobs.
>
> So, I did the honest things and contacted my dealer who then
> contacted his agent guy in Japan.  I am looking at pretty much a £
> 1000 for each bumper and £ 300 for shipping......
>
> I have actually sourced a supplier of mouldings in New Zealand that
> will do this for around £ 1000 all in, but delivery is long (1 month
> atleast).
>
> Anyway, my question is does anyone know of any bumper specialist here
> in the UK that supply these items (I know I'll be looking at imported
> items, but looking at getting these a bit cheaper).  Also, if there
> are any other moulding specialists or even contacts in Japan that i
> could deal with direct for other quotes.
>
> (I'll post the photos, but don't know how)...
>
> Any help welcome (still haven't done my Edutek remap yet, but that
> will come eventually).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Stan
>
>
>
> The Legacy B4 Mailing List
>  [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/legacyb4/]
>
> apexJapan - Japanese Auto News for the Rest of Us
>  [http://www.apexjapan.com/]
>
> Translate international websites with Babelfish!
>  [http://babelfish.altavista.com/]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Hi all,

Need help!

Last week, driving to work early in the morning (before the gritters
arrived), I spun off the road and over the kerb and hit a brick wall,
which amazingly only tore off part of the left front bumper and no
other piece of the bofy work. No other cars involved too and it was
low speed collision. The car then spun around and to make matters
worse I backed into a post which damaged the ream bumper too!!

As many of you know, the bumpers are the parts which make the Blitzen
distinctive and now they are both shot.  I think they are really
replacement jobs.

So, I did the honest things and contacted my dealer who then
contacted his agent guy in Japan.  I am looking at pretty much a £
1000 for each bumper and £ 300 for shipping......

I have actually sourced a supplier of mouldings in New Zealand that
will do this for around £ 1000 all in, but delivery is long (1 month
atleast).

Anyway, my question is does anyone know of any bumper specialist here
in the UK that supply these items (I know I'll be looking at imported
items, but looking at getting these a bit cheaper).  Also, if there
are any other moulding specialists or even contacts in Japan that i
could deal with direct for other quotes.

(I'll post the photos, but don't know how)...

Any help welcome (still haven't done my Edutek remap yet, but that
will come eventually).

Thanks,

Stan

I will need to see if I still have the box etc   Trac Art in Ashford Kent
installed it for me   they are always very helpful re these bits although they
mainly do mad supras

regards
nick
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: GLYNN SARGEANT
   To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 9:37 AM
   Subject: Re: [B4] b4 rsk dump valve


   hi nick thanks for your help can you tell me the model of the dv you bought
please so i can be sure of buying the correct fitment for my rsk, where did you
purchase it from because ive contacted several suppliers and they say they have
no records for fitment of that car regards

   ----- Original Message ----
   From: Nick Martin <nick.martin13@...>
   To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, 8 February, 2007 5:06:17 PM
   Subject: Re: [B4] b4 rsk dump valve

   I have the blitz one
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: glynn883
   To: legacyb4@yahoogroup s.com
   Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:58 AM
   Subject: [B4] b4 rsk dump valve

   hi i have just purchased a 2000 b4 rsk twin turbo and i want to fit a
   dump valve does anybody know which one will fit ???

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




   __________________________________________________________
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at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes.
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   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hi nick thanks for your help can you tell me the model of the dv you bought
please so i can be sure of buying the correct fitment for my rsk, where did you
purchase it from because ive contacted several suppliers and they say they have
no records for fitment of that car regards


----- Original Message ----
From: Nick Martin <nick.martin13@...>
To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, 8 February, 2007 5:06:17 PM
Subject: Re: [B4] b4 rsk dump valve

I have the blitz one
----- Original Message -----
From: glynn883
To: legacyb4@yahoogroup s.com
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:58 AM
Subject: [B4] b4 rsk dump valve

hi i have just purchased a 2000 b4 rsk twin turbo and i want to fit a
dump valve does anybody know which one will fit ???

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








___________________________________________________________
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at
the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes.
http://uk.rd.yahoo.com/evt=44106/*http://mail.yahoo.net/uk

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have the blitz one
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: glynn883
   To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:58 AM
   Subject: [B4] b4 rsk dump valve


   hi i have just purchased a 2000 b4 rsk twin turbo and i want to fit a
   dump valve does anybody know which one will fit ???





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hi i have just purchased a 2000 b4 rsk twin turbo and i want to fit a
dump valve does anybody know which one will fit ???

Hi folks, just thought I would let anybody who was interested know how I
have gone with troubleshooting the low and erratic boost problems on my BG5.
Just to recap, boost was weird, you could hear the primary screaming
it's guts out, but no boost, it was like there was a major leak
somewhere, although I couldn't find one.
Also, the secondary kept trying to come in, then out, then in, then out,
you get the picture :-)

So this is what I have done.
Reset ECU, obviously, then using three boost gauges, I plumbed them all
up, one to manifold pressure, one to secondary pressure, one used in
various positions to check functionality of all valves and lines.
Everything seem to be working right, DUH !
Still frustrated as hell, I kept looking, digging deeper and deeper,
even pressure testing the exhaust actuator on the secondary, and other
various sensors and solenoids. Stripped the solenoid box down, cleaned
them, checked cabling and hoses. I checked for cracks, leaks, and
everything else.
In desperation I did the unthinkable, removed the intercooler, warning,
don't do this unless you are a fool, or have way to much time on your
hands to get the damn pipes back on the turbos !
After removing such item, I found a larger than expected amount of gunge
buildup around the pipe that connects between the intercooler and the
exit of the primary turbo, and the intercooler valve for the secondary
turbo. Upon closer inspection, and whilst cleaning the valve for the
secondary turbo, I noticed that it was in the open position, and it
should have by default been in the closed position when their is no
vacuum present. This I believe was the first problem. So I cleaned it
out, and gave it a bit of serious exercise with the air compressor
(warning, don't apply too much pressure or it will break !, and no I
didn't break it !). After inspecting the pipe from the primary to the
intercooler, I now suspect that it was problem number 2, I don't think
it was a snug fit on the turbo outlet, and believe that it was leaking
boost, hence all the gunge buildup. It took me 3 hours to get the
intercooler back on, as the pipes are quite hard at 10 years old, so are
a bugger to fit back on. Once she was back together, another ECU reset
was done, and a test drive done. Instantly I could tell that the car was
going better, it had more low down power, but primary turbo noise was
noticeably louder. After warming it up a bit I opened it up and found
that it was going heaps better, up to .8bar with the standard boost
controller. Now normally I was running 1.2 bar, but even after fitting
the bleed valve back on, I could not get more that .8 bar, still much
better than I was getting, and the car doesn't hesitate at all now. I
think that problem number 3 has now surfaced, and believe that for the
time that the pipe coming off the primary was loose, that it has spent a
considerable amount of time overboosting, and now has leaky seals.
PReviously I could get 18psi out of it in short bursts, now I couldn't
manage even 12, and that was with the wastegate disconnected !.

So whilst I now have a much better performing car, it looks like I need
to get the turbo rebuilt, but maybe that means doing the mod of putting
the compressor wheel from the spare secondary in to the primary, should
be an interesting result from what I have been told !

Anyways, take it easy.

Regards
Paul

Suggest one other thing to do:

THere is a flexible tube that is to the immediate right of the climate
control unit in the centre console/dashboard (on the 99-03 models) It
pulls air from the car interior through a small vent that you can see
below the temperature control knob.  If the tube is disconnected, then
the system will not pick up the 'right' air temperatures, and would
cause problems with either the A/C or heater.

Once you have access the the control unit (in the same way as
replacing the radio), just ensure that the tube is in place.  It is a
little tricky to put the control system back in place and bolted down
while ensureing that the tube is in place, but not too difficult.

Regards


--- In legacyb4@yahoogroups.com, "jwjamesonuk" <jwjamesonuk@...> wrote:
>
> If you have the heater set to 'Auto' you are reliant on certain
> sensors in the car that are used to determine the actual outside
> temp. One of these sensors is near the windscreen (inside the car)
> and can get confused if it is a sunny day - so it kicks in the cold
> air fans.
>
> I find that the air vents that blow out at chest level always blow
> cold air, so if you want heat in the car use the 'mode' button to
> switch to the footwell fans instead.
>
> Alternatively, just turn the required temperature up - I quite often
> go up to 29-30 on long journeys!!
>

Hey Paul,
Any luck? I've been wracking my brain for possible causes and spoken to a few a
people but we all have no idea. As you have said, there must be a significant
leak of manifold pressure. Was it you that had boost gauges setup to read the
boost off each turbo? (I still can't get my head around how that works but never
mind  ) Do you think you could have dropped a coil? Or blown a piston ring?
Guess you'd have noticed smoke from the exhaust if there was something like
that. Inadequate fuel pressure? My fuel pump died at 150k. Blocked injector?
I hate not knowing things!!
Have a good weekend.... hopefully not too much of it is under the car!
Cheers
Steve


----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Julian <paul@...>
To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:15:42 AM
Subject: Re: [B4] Howdy !

Shucks Steve, you're just too nice :-)
How the hell are you anyway ?

Good suggestions, but I think I have ruled that out because when you are
cruising along in say 4th or 5th at about 2500 or 3000rpm then apply a
reasonable amount of throttle but no WOT, the primary does boost right
up to 1bar, but the engine doesn't respond with the usual amount of power.
It's weird actually, you can here the turbos singing their song, but the
engine just doesn't go, it's like there's some massive leak somewhere of
manifold pressure, but I can't find or hear anything.
I'm thinking of taking off the intercooler and having a looksee
underneath, just in case that damn bypass pipe might have come loose.
I thought I found it the other day when I found the pipe from the
secondary to the intercooler was a bit loose, but it made no difference.
It really seems like it's a solenoid or something the way the ECU tries
to bring in the secondary to early, then drops it, then brings it in,
etc, etc.

Regards
Paul

Steve wrote:
>
> Hi Paul,
> You're the guru we'd all ask these sorts of questions! I had a few
> ideas at the start of your email but sounds like you've tried
> everything already!! Sounds like you're probably not having the
> secondary turbo kick in at 3000rpm but that you have a wastegate
> issue. I'd start with testing or swapping out the (primary on our MY)
> wastegate as it's probably getting stuck open.
> Good luck and let us know how it goes.
> Cheers
> Steve
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Paul Julian <paul@redrocksolutio ns.net
> <mailto:paul% 40redrocksolutio ns.net>>
> To: legacyb4@yahoogroup s.com <mailto:legacyb4% 40yahoogroups. com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 12:25:03 AM
> Subject: [B4] Howdy !
>
> Hi Guys, long time no talk !
>
> I hope everybody I have spoken to here over the past 5 years is great !,
> and of course everybody I haven't spoken to !
>
> I still have my BG5, now with 220k on the clock, and about 12 track days
> down also...
>
> I have a small problem I would like to throw in the ring and see if
> anybody has any suggestions, I have tried everything I can think of to
> fix this sucker, but to no avail
> Here's the problem.
> Whether the engine is hot or cold this problem occurs.
> Normally, when the engine is running nice, I pull about 1.2bar, smoothly
> and consistently, have done for 5 years now.
> Recently however, the engine has decided to try and bring the second
> turbo in about 3000rpm, with the foot planted, and of course it doesn;t
> work, so it throws back to the primary then back to the secondary, and
> bouces between until engine revs get over 4k, when it does this the
> primary is lucky to boost up to about .5bar. If you rev the engine up
> past 4000rpm, the secondary comes in OK as per normal, but I still only
> get .5bar.
> Sometimes, after doing nothing at all, it goes fine, bang, up to 1.2bar
> and away you go. Then all of a sudden it will go like crap again.
> I have tried ECU resets, different fuel, octane booster, direct plumbing
> the primary wastegate, new plugs, checking for leaks as best I can,
> checked for leaky secondary blow off valve (primary already non
> standard), and keep hitting brick walls. I also replaced the O2 sensor a
> while back for something else, so not sure there.
> The ECU also throws codes 21 (Water Temp, which is fine), 65
> (Differential pressure line), and 66 (twin turbo system) which it's
> always thrown every now and then.
>
> I pass this over to the other gurus and look forward to any constructive
> suggestions.
>
> Now my kids are older I'm wanting to drive my car more, but it's just
> not playing ball !
>
> Thanks and Regards
>
> Paul
> (TwinTurboSubaru)
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail. yahoo.com <http://mail. yahoo.com>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

--
Regards

Paul Julian
paul@redrocksolutio ns.net
Phone: 0403 345 166
Fax: 02 4572 2460

RedRock Solutions
<http://www.redrocks olutions. net/>

IT Solutions
Novell, Microsoft
Consulting, Networking
Hardware, Software

Rock Solid IT Solutions for your Business

This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and are intended
solely for the use of the individual or entity to which they were addressed. If
you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the
email to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this email in
error, and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this
email is strictly prohibited. All emails are checked for viruses upon leaving
RedRock Solutions, but you are hereby advised to maintain you own virus
protection, and not to rely on this email being free from viruses. If you
received this email in error, please immediately notify the sender, or
webmaster@redrockso lutions.net






________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Cheap talk?
Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
http://voice.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Shucks Steve, you're just too nice :-)
How the hell are you anyway ?

Good suggestions, but I think I have ruled that out because when you are
cruising along in say 4th or 5th at about 2500 or 3000rpm then apply a
reasonable amount of throttle but no WOT, the primary does boost right
up to 1bar, but the engine doesn't respond with the usual amount of power.
It's weird actually, you can here the turbos singing their song, but the
engine just doesn't go, it's like there's some massive leak somewhere of
manifold pressure, but I can't find or hear anything.
I'm thinking of taking off the intercooler and having a looksee
underneath, just in case that damn bypass pipe might have come loose.
I thought I found it the other day when I found the pipe from the
secondary to the intercooler was a bit loose, but it made no difference.
It really seems like it's a solenoid or something the way the ECU tries
to bring in the secondary to early, then drops it, then brings it in,
etc, etc.

Regards
Paul

Steve wrote:
>
> Hi Paul,
> You're the guru we'd all ask these sorts of questions! I had a few
> ideas at the start of your email but sounds like you've tried
> everything already!! Sounds like you're probably not having the
> secondary turbo kick in at 3000rpm but that you have a wastegate
> issue. I'd start with testing or swapping out the (primary on our MY)
> wastegate as it's probably getting stuck open.
> Good luck and let us know how it goes.
> Cheers
> Steve
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Paul Julian <paul@...
> <mailto:paul%40redrocksolutions.net>>
> To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com <mailto:legacyb4%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 12:25:03 AM
> Subject: [B4] Howdy !
>
> Hi Guys, long time no talk !
>
> I hope everybody I have spoken to here over the past 5 years is great !,
> and of course everybody I haven't spoken to !
>
> I still have my BG5, now with 220k on the clock, and about 12 track days
> down also...
>
> I have a small problem I would like to throw in the ring and see if
> anybody has any suggestions, I have tried everything I can think of to
> fix this sucker, but to no avail
> Here's the problem.
> Whether the engine is hot or cold this problem occurs.
> Normally, when the engine is running nice, I pull about 1.2bar, smoothly
> and consistently, have done for 5 years now.
> Recently however, the engine has decided to try and bring the second
> turbo in about 3000rpm, with the foot planted, and of course it doesn;t
> work, so it throws back to the primary then back to the secondary, and
> bouces between until engine revs get over 4k, when it does this the
> primary is lucky to boost up to about .5bar. If you rev the engine up
> past 4000rpm, the secondary comes in OK as per normal, but I still only
> get .5bar.
> Sometimes, after doing nothing at all, it goes fine, bang, up to 1.2bar
> and away you go. Then all of a sudden it will go like crap again.
> I have tried ECU resets, different fuel, octane booster, direct plumbing
> the primary wastegate, new plugs, checking for leaks as best I can,
> checked for leaky secondary blow off valve (primary already non
> standard), and keep hitting brick walls. I also replaced the O2 sensor a
> while back for something else, so not sure there.
> The ECU also throws codes 21 (Water Temp, which is fine), 65
> (Differential pressure line), and 66 (twin turbo system) which it's
> always thrown every now and then.
>
> I pass this over to the other gurus and look forward to any constructive
> suggestions.
>
> Now my kids are older I'm wanting to drive my car more, but it's just
> not playing ball !
>
> Thanks and Regards
>
> Paul
> (TwinTurboSubaru)
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com <http://mail.yahoo.com>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

--
Regards

Paul Julian
paul@...
Phone: 0403 345 166
Fax: 02 4572 2460

RedRock Solutions
<http://www.redrocksolutions.net/>

IT Solutions
Novell, Microsoft
Consulting, Networking
Hardware, Software

Rock Solid IT Solutions for your Business

This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and are intended
solely for the use of the individual or entity to which they were addressed. If
you are not the intended recipient or the person responsible for delivering the
email to the intended recipient, be advised that you have received this email in
error, and that any use, dissemination, forwarding, printing, or copying of this
email is strictly prohibited. All emails are checked for viruses upon leaving
RedRock Solutions, but you are hereby advised to maintain you own virus
protection, and not to rely on this email being free from viruses. If you
received this email in error, please immediately notify the sender, or
webmaster@...

Hi Paul,
You're the guru we'd all ask these sorts of questions! I had a few ideas at the
start of your email but sounds like you've tried everything already!! Sounds
like you're probably not having the secondary turbo kick in at 3000rpm but that
you have a wastegate issue. I'd start with testing or swapping out the (primary
on our MY) wastegate as it's probably getting stuck open.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Cheers
Steve


----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Julian <paul@...>
To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 12:25:03 AM
Subject: [B4] Howdy !

Hi Guys, long time no talk !

I hope everybody I have spoken to here over the past 5 years is great !,
and of course everybody I haven't spoken to !

I still have my BG5, now with 220k on the clock, and about 12 track days
down also...

I have a small problem I would like to throw in the ring and see if
anybody has any suggestions, I have tried everything I can think of to
fix this sucker, but to no avail
Here's the problem.
Whether the engine is hot or cold this problem occurs.
Normally, when the engine is running nice, I pull about 1.2bar, smoothly
and consistently, have done for 5 years now.
Recently however, the engine has decided to try and bring the second
turbo in about 3000rpm, with the foot planted, and of course it doesn;t
work, so it throws back to the primary then back to the secondary, and
bouces between until engine revs get over 4k, when it does this the
primary is lucky to boost up to about .5bar. If you rev the engine up
past 4000rpm, the secondary comes in OK as per normal, but I still only
get .5bar.
Sometimes, after doing nothing at all, it goes fine, bang, up to 1.2bar
and away you go. Then all of a sudden it will go like crap again.
I have tried ECU resets, different fuel, octane booster, direct plumbing
the primary wastegate, new plugs, checking for leaks as best I can,
checked for leaky secondary blow off valve (primary already non
standard), and keep hitting brick walls. I also replaced the O2 sensor a
while back for something else, so not sure there.
The ECU also throws codes 21 (Water Temp, which is fine), 65
(Differential pressure line), and 66 (twin turbo system) which it's
always thrown every now and then.

I pass this over to the other gurus and look forward to any constructive
suggestions.

Now my kids are older I'm wanting to drive my car more, but it's just
not playing ball !

Thanks and Regards

Paul
(TwinTurboSubaru)



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If you have the heater set to 'Auto' you are reliant on certain
sensors in the car that are used to determine the actual outside
temp. One of these sensors is near the windscreen (inside the car)
and can get confused if it is a sunny day - so it kicks in the cold
air fans.

I find that the air vents that blow out at chest level always blow
cold air, so if you want heat in the car use the 'mode' button to
switch to the footwell fans instead.

Alternatively, just turn the required temperature up - I quite often
go up to 29-30 on long journeys!!

If you have the heater set to 'Auto' you are reliant on certain
sensors in the car that are used to determine the actual outside
temp. One of these sensors is near the windscreen (inside the car)
and can get confused if it is a sunny day - so it kicks in the cold
air fans.

I find that the air vents that blow out at chest level always blow
cold air, so if you want heat in the car use the 'mode' button to
switch to the footwell fans instead.

Alternatively, just turn the required temperature up - I quite often
go up to 29-30 on long journeys!!

Hi Guys, long time no talk !

I hope everybody I have spoken to here over the past 5 years is great !,
and of course everybody I haven't spoken to !

I still have my BG5, now with 220k on the clock, and about 12 track days
down also...

I have a small problem I would like to throw in the ring and see if
anybody has any suggestions, I have tried everything I can think of to
fix this sucker, but to no avail
Here's the problem.
Whether the engine is hot or cold this problem occurs.
Normally, when the engine is running nice, I pull about 1.2bar, smoothly
and consistently, have done for  5 years now.
Recently however, the engine has decided to try and bring the second
turbo in about 3000rpm, with the foot planted, and of course it doesn;t
work, so it throws back to the primary then back to the secondary, and
bouces between until engine revs get over 4k, when it does this the
primary is lucky to boost up to about .5bar. If you rev the engine up
past 4000rpm, the secondary comes in OK as per normal, but I still only
get .5bar.
Sometimes, after doing nothing at all, it goes fine, bang, up to 1.2bar
and away you go. Then all of a sudden it will go like crap again.
I have tried ECU resets, different fuel, octane booster, direct plumbing
the primary wastegate, new plugs, checking for leaks as best I can,
checked for leaky secondary blow off valve (primary already non
standard), and keep hitting brick walls. I also replaced the O2 sensor a
while back for something else, so not sure there.
The ECU also throws codes 21 (Water Temp, which is fine), 65
(Differential pressure line), and 66 (twin turbo system) which it's
always thrown every now and then.

I pass this over to the other gurus and look forward to any constructive
suggestions.

Now my kids are older I'm wanting to drive my car more, but it's just
not playing ball !

Thanks and Regards

Paul
(TwinTurboSubaru)

So I've just bought a 1994 B4 and I'm totally loving it. Lots of fun in
this car already.



I have the auto/tiptronic gearbox and it has a rocker switch  next to
the gearbox with vertically "AUTO, A/T, HOLD". (I think that's what it
said J)



What does this rocker switch. Any more power to be gained in any of the
other settings?



Also, any advice for using the tiptronic gearbox?



Cheers,

Lukas



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

When I got my 1999 B4 I had the opposite problem. Blew warm okay but not
cold.



Not sure if it's related but the dealer had to refreeze the system and
then it was fine!



I guess you can always wear another jumper?





From: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com [mailto:legacyb4@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scoobyspecb
Sent: Monday, 11 December 2006 11:17 a.m.
To: legacyb4@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [B4] B4 heater problem



When i set the heater in my 1999 B4 to say 23 degrees it sometimes
blows cool air out.Sometimes its fine though!.Anyone had a similar
problem with theirs?.I suppose it could be a sticking thermostat but
just wondered if anyone had a particular issue with a B4 doin this that
was caused by something different.
Thanks
scoobyspecb (formerly mountainmile on here)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In legacyb4@yahoogroups.com, "scoobyspecb" <scoobyspecb@...> wrote:
>
> When i set the heater in my 1999 B4 to say 23 degrees it sometimes
> blows cool air out.Sometimes its fine though!.Anyone had a similar
> problem with theirs?.I suppose it could be a sticking thermostat but
> just wondered if anyone had a particular issue with a B4 doin this
that
> was caused by something different.
> Thanks
> scoobyspecb  (formerly mountainmile on here)
>
I meant to say....I havent noticed any coolant loss or temperature
guage displaying anything unusual(It sits just below half way   ALWAYS!
which is something ive always found a little odd as any other cars i
ever had always crept up at least a little if i was in traffis etc
before the fan came on)

When i set the heater in my 1999 B4 to say 23 degrees it sometimes
blows cool air out.Sometimes its fine though!.Anyone had a similar
problem with theirs?.I suppose it could be a sticking thermostat but
just wondered if anyone had a particular issue with a B4 doin this that
was caused by something different.
Thanks
scoobyspecb  (formerly mountainmile on here)

Just checking on the state of the list.

Cheers.

Hi Stan,
   Have a 2001 tiptronic, which I ECUtek'd in Jan this year.  We only  have 90
Octane, and car was JDM - so needed 98RON.  Pre ECUtek car  was sluggish
especially when hot, after car is sweet - MUCH more  drivable, the VOD is not
noticable etc.  With 90 Octane, went from  185 WHP to 215 WHP, and good increase
in torque.
   Really, really recommend this - no impact on the engine.  Hoped  for better
fuel economy, but too much fun now to drive sedately.
   One note - plan to change your fuel pump to get better flow, as original
sometimes cannot keep up.
   Good luck!
   Simon

stnlryralph <stnlryralph@...> wrote:
Guys,

   My first post and a novice with Scoobies I have to admit....I have
   fancied the B4 for ages and eventually waited it out until I saw the
   one I liked.  I have a Silver 2000, Blitzen with 40 k miles.  Only
   one owner in the UK who serviced the car religiously....something I
   need to follow up with....point on this later.

   Anyway, after 1 month of I must say pretty good driving pleasure
   (especially handling), I have observed the void in power in between
   turbos.  I have read all over the place that the remap is the way to
   go and I've even seen a local specialist who will do it for £ 650.  I
   just want to know how worth it is it?  How many people on the list
   have actually had this done.  I expect there's a downside with
   increase engine wear etc, but the performance gain must make up for
   it???  If a re-map is done, does this really smooth out the valley
   and what HP gain should ypou be looking to achieve...I run with V-
   power 99.

   Sorry for the long message, but hoping to get some good feedback
   guidance......this is a great car as it is now, just want to improve!!

   Stan






---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
  Everyone is raving about the  all-new Yahoo! Mail.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Guys,

My first post and a novice with Scoobies I have to admit....I have
fancied the B4 for ages and eventually waited it out until I saw the
one I liked.  I have a Silver 2000, Blitzen with 40 k miles.  Only
one owner in the UK who serviced the car religiously....something I
need to follow up with....point on this later.

Anyway, after 1 month of I must say pretty good driving pleasure
(especially handling), I have observed the void in power in between
turbos.  I have read all over the place that the remap is the way to
go and I've even seen a local specialist who will do it for £ 650.  I
just want to know how worth it is it?  How many people on the list
have actually had this done.  I expect there's a downside with
increase engine wear etc, but the performance gain must make up for
it???  If a re-map is done, does this really smooth out the valley
and what HP gain should ypou be looking to achieve...I run with V-
power 99.

Sorry for the long message, but hoping to get some good feedback
guidance......this is a great car as it is now, just want to improve!!

Stan