I have a IH3414 loader backhoe that has some lean
mixture problems, lean surge, backfire, rough idle and
running. These problems go away with the choke part way
closed. I believe the previous owner changed carbs and
put a new one on. Does anybody have info on zenith
one barrel downdraft carbs. Any help is appreciated.
Paul

I saw a message on the old board about how to overhaul box for 200 Canadian
dollars, assume this was 20? ( could buy most of tractor for 200 in the UK) How?
details please.

Presume it does, what number have you got? assume you have the Tractor number
and not engine or other number?

B250: On the lower panel there are a number of
holes/cutouts and forms. The lower left is for the fuel
cutoff/bowl, centre the stop button, BUT what are the the
lower right "keyhole" athe the right of centre formed
clip for???

Hello all! Thanks to lylo for keeping a place for
dialogue going. I have a 1960 B414D ser# 2300 and some
that is converted to negative ground. Whoever did the
conversion used a Mitsubishi alternator AG2035T3 which has
been awful to replace. I finally found an auto supply
with 3 or 4 cross reference books to identify this
thing. Does anyone have a reference for this conversion?
I would like to replace this odd alternator with a
common one but the plug and connectors are anything BUT
common. Any help would be much appreciated. <br>Doug from
Southwestern Ontario.

Thanks for the information, but I have five digits in my serial number on my
tractor.  Does that mean that my tractor is newer?  IHfarmerDave

B-275 <br>Year Serial Number<br>1959 501<br>1960 1720<br>1961 3415

Somebody was looking for these ??<br>B-275 <br>Year Serial Number<br>1959
501<br>1960 1720<br>1961 3415<br>Has anybody got similar for B250 ?

My b275 has a small hole on the left side of the
steering column,below the steering wheel. You can use a
squirt can to put oil in it. I used 30weight motor oil
in mine. it made a big difference in steering.

I have owned a B-275 since the mid-70's. I would
like to find out exactly what year it was made. Does
anyone have any serial number listings? It was nice to
see a website just for the British made
Internationals! IHfarmerDave

A farmer once told me that if you can get the
steering wheel off, check if there is room to pour gear
oil between the felt bushing and the steering shaft.
We are overhauling two steering boxes off b414's and
if the seal at the pitman arm is not leaking badly,
I think gear oil is the best to use. One of the
steering boxes had a grease zerk welded close to the wheel
but it did not travel past the first bearing. The
other steering box was full of grease at the pitman arm
shaft but still did not lubricate the top worm shaft
bearing nor the bushings on the pitman arm shaft, thus
grooving the shaft. If your steering box is very sloppy I
would recommend overhauling this winter to avoid more
serious damage to internal parts. I can describe in
detail how to do this if anyone is interested. Without
replacing any shafts, it will cost around $200CAN. <br>
<br>Regards,<br>&lt;droogieca&gt;

It depends on how much water. If it is a lot, the
only thing I can think of is the filler plug. Maybe it
was not tightened properly at some point in time and
rainwater seeped in. If it is not a lot, then it is
probably condensation. According to my brother-in-law who
used to be a JD tractor mechanic, it is not uncommon
in tractors to develop condensation over the years.

Glad this is now up and running. The old site was
very useful. I recently bought a B275 that has water
in the hydraulic system. Hydraulics seem to work OK,
and I'm going to drain and replace the fluid. Anybody
have any clues how that water got in there to begin
with? Could it be condensation? Rainwater? Any help
will be appreciated. Thanks.

ON THE STEERING BOX, ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE NEAR THE TOP? SO I GUESS IT IS HIDDEN
UNDER THE TANK

Where is the filler for the steering box on the
B-275? (I know, I should get a manual) Using my tractor
a lot, and the steering is sounding like it's
lacking lubrication, have greased all the points on the
linkages, but can't seem to find a way to lubricate the
box.

I have a B250 and the ITC manual. I also has some
JENSEN inc reprint manuals specific to B250 and the Blue
Ribbon 275 data as a patch. The B275 is basically
derived from the B250. Engine BD144, tin work,
transmission, hence the castings and hydraulics all the same.
Fundamental differences are the dual clutch giving the live
PTO, the enhanced gearbox giving more ratios and the
steering box with single drop arm and hence front tie bar
on the B275. So other than the steering difference
you can generally treat the B250 as a simplified, or
base model version.

I'm glad to see this club started up.I really
enjoyed getting some good information on the forum.I was
sorry to see it go down , but I can understand why.I
hope I can be of assistance in the future. Regards,
Bill

My older ITC shop manual (copyright 1979) covers
B-275, B-414-354-364-384-424-444-2424-2444, both diesel
and gas aka petrol.<br><br>The newer ed INTERNATIONAL
HARVESTER (FARMALL) IH-201 COLLECTION apparently (I don't
have a copy), from the ITC website description covers:
International Harvester <br>Models 100, 130, 140, 200, 230,
240, 404, 2404,<br>Models 330, 340, 504, 2504
<br>Models B-275, B-414, 354, 364, 384, 424, 444,
2424,2444<br><br>Item ID: IH-201 ISBN: 0-87288-369-8<br>Price:
$29.95<br><br>The internet address for intertec generally
is<br>www.itshopmanuals.com.<br><br>For the IHC tractors (good place to compare
model
similarity)
is<br><a href=http://www.intertecsales.com/IntertecBooks/Products.asp?GRPID=15
target=new>http://www.intertecsales.com/IntertecBooks/Products.asp?GRPID=15</a><\
br><br>As I have said before the good thing about the ITC
manual is it helps you to make good guesses about what
is similar and different amongst these B-series
models (there are yet other IHC B models it seems) Worth
it just for that comparison especially if you are
looking for parts. One thing you have to notice on both
these lists is that neither includes the B250 some of
our club participants have. Makes me wonder if it is
totally different beast but haven't seen one (B250 that
is) "in the flesh" so can't be sure, can someone help
here...?<br>Lyle

I have a B-414 with a cracked block and would
like to know if a B-275 block will iterchange and if
the head and other parts will fit. I'm haveing a hard
time finding a B-414 block.Any info will
help.<br>Thanks

Any source for these ? Have finally cleaned off 43 years of grim, after  2 years
of ownership and repainted. Be nice to finish the job off.

Is it possible to change the seal without
splitting the engine off? I did all the others, Axle, PTO
etc, but forgot about this one. From the manual the
front shaft to clutch disengages/unbolts, is there
enough room to pull the gearbox shaft end off and
replace seal?

hi everybody. i'm sure going to miss the old
site, alot of good info for all to use. i have a 63
b-275 and use it for skidding and hauling firewood with
a 12000 lb farmi skidding winch. this tractor has
been able to pull any tree out of my woods with not
much more than an idle to run the pto. put a new fuel
pump in yesterday, the pump lasted about three hours
before it quit, with the tractor about 1/2 mile back in
the woods. it pays to buy genuine ihc parts,the pump
i bought was half the price of oem pump but spent
three hrs walking in and out of the woods for tools and
finally the old pump which i rebuilt from the parts from
the new pump. After i bled the whole fuel system from
the tank to the injecters and she fired right up and
ran like a champ.the old pump just had stripped
threads on the out flow side so i swapped the body off
the new pump and started and ran fine.

Thank you. I hope everybody makes the transition
from the old club. I have had my B414 for two days
now.Bush hogged with it yesterday. Someone in church gave
it to me. Never thought I would be able to own such
a nice tractor. Doesn't have power steering , but
the steering is tight. I'll be here more often!
Thanks again. George

I believe the B-250 and B-275 are quite different beasts and there is not much
similar in the steering, perhaps someone else could verify/clarify this?

According to the ITC manual the B-414 was a Lucas
for both generator and starter, and for both gas and
diesel. You can surely get new ones from your Case/IHC
dealer, but consider having them rebuilt--I had my
starter rebuilt for $75 Can / $50 US and it works great.

Have B414 Diesel Ser # 16825. I need a
starter,grill,hood,and generator. Any help? Did this tractor have a
Lucas or Delco-Remy starter? I can hardly believe there
is a club like this. Many thanks to you the host!
George

Yes I have a series of manuals, reprints from
Jensen and an Intertec, as well as a very friendly
(IH)Case dealer. There seems two problems, one the common
mode slack and general backlash. New rod ends, wheel
bearings and shaft shims have sorted that. Now left with
the differential slop, second problem. This is a
bigger problem on B250 as dual drop arm and no tie rod.
The trunnion bushes are shot and dealer cannot
identify part. There are NO SHIMS on the box sides ??
Looks like weld repair/machine column foot and bush the
rocker shaft end to suit together with self made
trunnion bearings. I note there is an adjuster pad and
bolt, but have not seen any reference as to setting
procedure?<br>What was the ball joint part number you used?

This was posted on the lylo forum way back on May
08, 1998 by HWallace:<br><br>I too had trouble with
excess play in the steering gear. Like you, the trouble
seemed to originate in<br>the steering gear box. On
closer inspection, however, I found a little play in a
whole bunch of<br>places that added up to a big
problem. The worst area was the front axel pivot bushings,
whick I<br>replaced. I also replaced the tie rod ends &
drag link ends. The rod ends were obtained from
the<br>local CIH dealer. (The CIH part number cross reference
system is a horror story in itself I will<br>share at
another time) I was able to get an "after market"
maintenance manual for my baby, that<br>has helped a lot. If
you like I will send you the publisher & name. One of
the things it explained to<br>me, is that there is a
way to compensate for wear in the steering gear box,
by removing some<br>shims. I did that, & it helped,
but there is a badly worn section in the worm gear at
centre position<br>that I can't adjust out. I'm going to
pursue the India thing to try & get one. The way she
steers<br>right now is pretty good, certainly good enuf to plant
or run down a paved road without shimmy,<br>but in
my zeal to adjust for the wear in the worm gear, I
made her a little stiff at both extremes of<br>the
steering wheel position

Welcome everyone interested in these great old
tractors. A particularly warm hello to those who formerly
participated in the discussions over on lylo.com, which is due
for "re-construction" RSN. So don't be shy to keep up
the great exchanges of information, parts info, and
other tips, here at yahoo clubs on these made in
Britain (hence the "B") IHC tractors. <br>Cheers<br>Lylo

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