FROM THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

Hey everyone im really interested in the type 3 squarebacks and im
really excited about starting a project. Any suggestions about where to
start and how to make a mean squareback let me know.

Well today is the second day it has been out on the road and the first
time it has been home for several months.  Right now it is just running
it and getting some of the road bugs from the engine and what ever else
we can find and still have some minor electric problems to solve. The
next major thing is the sanding and buffing.  Though it seems like when
you get one little project done there is another one staring you in the
face.  Well as they say one thing at a time.

Go to...http://vealesvwshop.homestead.com/BEFOREANDAFTER.html

Here you will see the latest.

I just posted some photos of my 71 bus.  If you want to see more in
processes photos of my but go to...

http://vealesvwshop.homestead.com/INPROCESS.html

It has been a year and a half adventure so far.

Ed Tieman

When I started working on my bus I used PB Blaster on all bolts and
nuts only had one screw head bust off.  Oh by the way a tourch helps.



-- In fweem@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <dragnetadam12@...> wrote:
>
> O.K., so you are trying to unbolt something on your car, BUT the head
> of the bolt breaks off (and unless you're one of the few who owns one
> of the newer Mexican Bugs, your car will be at least 28 years old.
I've
> been there too). Of course, you may have to drill and tap if the
> remainder of the bolt is flush with the surface, but if there's at
> least 1/4 inch sticking out, you can grind the "sides" of the bolt
flat
> with a Dremel, then you can back it out with an adjustable wrench.
This
> trick may work with studs as well.
>
> Joe
>
> Your Moderator And Proud Owner Of A '72 Super Beetle
>

If I find any post that remotely mentions joining Grouply, the poster
will be IMMEDIATELY banned from the group. This will be your only
warning. I have seen too many posts about joining Grouply and has heard
the horror stories afterwards. So I will nip it in the bud.

Joe

Your Moderator And Proud Owner Of A '72 Super Beetle

hello! wow, thats a hell of an engine u got there..... well, u might
have surplus parts or parts u r not using anymore..... send it  to me
here in the philippines..... i have a 67 vw beetle that needs restoration.

thanks & god bless







--- In fweem@yahoogroups.com, "Huck Finn" <softplugu@...> wrote:
>
> This is my 1967 Bug. It has taken me 4 years to get it on
> the street. The picture was taken at Bug In #32 in Southern
> California.
> I am running a 2007cc stroker motor with dual Dellorto's, Engle 120
> cam and DPR 78.4mm Crank. 90.5 pistons. Brothers Machining Heads. Car
> came out of a horse barn and was completely rusted out from
> horse "poop" and water. Body off
> restoration included new heater channels and floor panels. Much
> credit
> goes to my friend "RJ" for his help.
>

O.K., so you are trying to unbolt something on your car, BUT the head
of the bolt breaks off (and unless you're one of the few who owns one
of the newer Mexican Bugs, your car will be at least 28 years old. I've
been there too). Of course, you may have to drill and tap if the
remainder of the bolt is flush with the surface, but if there's at
least 1/4 inch sticking out, you can grind the "sides" of the bolt flat
with a Dremel, then you can back it out with an adjustable wrench. This
trick may work with studs as well.

Joe

Your Moderator And Proud Owner Of A '72 Super Beetle

O.K., so you want to replace the hood springs with the newer hood
struts on your Bug, but the springs are loaded and there are no spring
compressors that small or thin. To keep the spring from popping out and
have something fly into your eye, get a piece of plywood or a 2X8 that
is at least 18" long. Lay the hood hinge flat on the plywood/2X8. Place
2 nails on one side of the spring ( towards you, inside the coils) at
the top and bottom of the spring. Place another nail on the opposite
side of the spring (away from you) in the middle. This will act a a
spring compressor. Now use a hacksaw or jigsaw with a metal cutting
blade and cut the hinge pin holding the spring and spring shaft onto
the hinge. Now once the hinge is removed, pull the one nail on the side
of the spring away from you out. Now hit the spring with the hammer out
of it's place. Whatever flying objects should fly away from you. And
now you are ready to install the hood struts. That's my tip for now.

Joe

Your Moderator And Proud Owner Of A '72 Super Beetle

Too many toys force the sale of this cool running driving project
roadster see pictures at www.BUYTSM.com

thanks!
Steve

Hi I am Alexander in DC (fweem 73) and I am a New owner of a 1973
Beetle and trying to ID it for restoration purposes. It runs quite
well and looks okay (crummy recent Earl Scheib-type paint job) Also
it has a recently replaced engine.

How do I ID this engine and body type?

Thanks in advance for many more questions to follow!

Alexander in DC (FWEEM 73)

Hey there, what's happening. O.K., you stop off at the souvenir stand
or novelty shop, and you buy a liscense-plate sized plaque of your
favorite sports team, rock band, etc., but you live in a State that
requires a front liscense plate as well as a rear plate (yeah, we're
talking about you, New Jersey). Don't fret. If you have a '67-earlier,
you can mount your personal plate either on the left or right side
(under the headlight , on the bumper of course), and mount the legal
plate on the opposite side. '68-laters can do this too (you will need
to purchase a second liscense plate mounting bracket). Just make sure
the legal plate is visible by law enforcement. Not many vehicles allow
this, but all air-cooled VW's do. Well that's your tip from the
moderator.


Joe

Your Moderator, And Proud Owner Of A '72 Super Beetle

I've been trying to figure out the defogger wiring diagram I have for
my '70' Bug manual transmission. I see the defogger relay, but don't
know where to find it on the car. I see a black wire going from the
relay to the bulb on the center gauge at 8 o'clock (two squiggly lines
on the gauge signifying??) A white wire going to the element on the
back window...and another white wire going to the regulator. From the
toggle switch, I see a black wire going to the bulb on the gauge, and
the "hot"? black going from the toggle to the fuse box in the trunk
(looks like the fourth blade over?) My problem is: 1)I'm not sure
where the relay is located; 2) I'm not sure if the bulb at 8:30 on the
gauge with the squiggly two lines is the bulb because one of the wires
is black, but the other is blue/white. Any help would be greatly
appreciated. pd

I've been trying to figure out the defogger wiring diagram I have for
my '70' Bug manual transmission.  I see the defogger relay, but don't
know where to find it on the car. I see a black wire going from the
relay to the bulb on the center gauge at 8 o'clock (two squiggly lines
on the gauge signifying??) A white wire going to the element on the
back window...and another white wire going to the regulator.  From the
toggle switch, I see a black wire going to the bulb on the gauge, and
the "hot"? black going from the toggle to the fuse box in the trunk
(looks like the fourth blade over?)  My problem is: 1)I'm not sure
where the relay is located; 2) I'm not sure if the bulb at 8:30 on the
gauge with the squiggly two lines is the bulb because one of the wires
is black, but the other is blue/white.  Any help would be greatly
appreciated.  pd

Hey there guys. Did anybody check out the new Sprite commercial? It
features 2 Bugs (a yellow and a green one). Unfortunately, the very
same commercial features 2 sumo wrestlers with a nerd getting his head
sandwiched by the sumo wrestlers. Anyhoo, getting to see aircooled
VW's in action is always cool. Later.

Joe

Your Moderator And Proud Owner Of A '72 Super Beetle

Hey there to all my partners in crime. I'd like to wish everybody a
happy holiday season. Whether it is Festivus, Channukah, Christmas, or
you just don't have a holiday, just have fun.


Joe

Your Moderator And Proud Owner Of A '72 Super Beetle

As everyone of you are all aware, Hurricane Katrina left a devastating
mark in Louisiana. My thoughts to all the families that have lost
everything (including loved ones). It will take a long time to clean
up, so I will be posting a link to the Red Cross so they will be able
to receive help. Thank you, take care, and America The Beautiful.

Joe

Your Moderator and Proud (But Concerned) Owner Of A '72 Super Beetle


http://www.redcross.org

>>I have a VW 1600 Dual port engine that does not have a mechanical
fuel pump, but is not fuel injectd??? The engine code is AJ 023946,
which I am informed is a 75 vintage or later engine, which should be
injected. The heads are not FI heads though, so I am thinking that
it was coverted to use a carb. Any information that you can give me
would be greatly appreciated. Also, if you can sugest a good engine
book/manual that would be helpful.<<

First off, I would like to apologize for keeping you waiting for
your post to go on the board (I was on vacation and went to San
Francisco. It is very nice there and there are loads of air-cooled
VW's there). Now to your post. AJ engines were produced in late '74
for The '75 model year (so there shouldn't be a provision for a
mechanical fuel pump). It is also possible that the previous owner
replaced the heads when converting to carb (though it would not be
necessary). With F.I. heads, there are provisions for sensors cast
into the head (I would rather machine a F.I. head for bigger valves
so I could keep the sensor provisions or get Type III heads). Some
good books out there, there's of course The Bentley Manual,
also "How To rebuild Your Air-Cooled Volkswagen Engine" by Tom
Wilson, and there's Rick Higgins' "Bug Me Video" series (volume II
deals with engine rebuilds). Hope that helps.

Joe

Your Moderator And Proud Owner Of A '72 Super Beetle

I have a VW 1600 Dual port engine that does not have a mechanical fuel
pump, but is not fuel injectd??? The engine code is AJ 023946, which
I am informed is a 75 vintage or later engine, which should be
injected. The heads are not FI heads though, so I am thinking that it
was coverted to use a carb. Any information that you can giv me would
be greatly appreciated. Also, if you can sugest a good engine
book/manual that would be helpful.

Thanks...

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There are 2 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. chassis rust
From: "jhillm"
2. Re: chassis rust
From: "Joe"


Message: 1
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2005 06:41:01 -0000
From: "jhillm"
Subject: chassis rust

Huck Finn, that is a gorgeous bug! Hello group, my name is Jim from
Pittsburgh, PA and I own a 1974 Super Beetle. This was my first car
and the car has been in my family since it was almost new. It just
keeps getting handed down. The question I have for you guys is how
much chassis rust is too much? The pans and heater channels appear to
be ok(both fixed a while ago), with the exception of some surface rust
on the bottom. The problem lies in the ends of the vehicle. It was
tapped in the rear, which didn't hurt the body, but the damage is
noticeable when viewing from underneath (crumpled). The front has
what looks to be salt damage with parts just falling apart. I know it
is impossible to tell without actually looking at it, but I am looking
for some guidance. I rent a one stall garage, so taking the body off
and having a separate rolling chassis in the same space isn't an
option for me at this time. I have paid too much rent for storing it
over the years and have decided to either fix it up or sell it cheap.
Not an easy decision for me, especially when the body is in pretty
good shape overall and the engine seems OK. Any suggestions are
appreciated.
Sincerely Yours,
Jim Hillmar

>>Huck Finn, that is a gorgeous bug!  Hello group, my name is Jim
from Pittsburgh, PA and I own a 1974 Super Beetle.  This was my
first car and the car has been in my family since it was almost
new.  It just keeps getting handed down.  The question I have for
you guys is how much chassis rust is too much?  The pans and heater
channels appear to be ok(both fixed a while ago), with the exception
of some surface rust on the bottom.  The problem lies in the ends of
the vehicle. It was tapped in the rear, which didn't hurt the body,
but the damage is noticeable when viewing from underneath
(crumpled).  The front has what looks to be salt damage with parts
just falling apart.  I know it is impossible to tell without
actually looking at it, but I am looking for some guidance.  I rent
a one stall garage, so taking the body off and having a separate
rolling chassis in the same space isn't an option for me at this
time.  I have paid too much rent for storing it over the years and
have decided to either fix it up or sell it cheap.
Not an easy decision for me, especially when the body is in pretty
good shape overall and the engine seems OK.  Any suggestions are
appreciated.<<

Well Jim:

If you can see the street through the floorpan, then that is too
much rust. If stuff is falling off (as you described), then that is
too much rust. But don't fret. There are replacement segments for
your problem, and any chassis can be straightened. Are you willing
to do the work yourself or have a shop do it for you? If it's your
framehead, then you can get replacements anywhere (especially CIP1
and Mid America Motorworks). If it's the pan havles, then believe it
or not, they are the easiest to replace. Hope that helps.

Joe

Proud Owner of A '72 Super Beetle

Huck Finn, that is a gorgeous bug!  Hello group, my name is Jim from
Pittsburgh, PA and I own a 1974 Super Beetle.  This was my first car
and the car has been in my family since it was almost new.  It just
keeps getting handed down.  The question I have for you guys is how
much chassis rust is too much?  The pans and heater channels appear to
be ok(both fixed a while ago), with the exception of some surface rust
on the bottom.  The problem lies in the ends of the vehicle. It was
tapped in the rear, which didn't hurt the body, but the damage is
noticeable when viewing from underneath (crumpled).  The front has
what looks to be salt damage with parts just falling apart.  I know it
is impossible to tell without actually looking at it, but I am looking
for some guidance.  I rent a one stall garage, so taking the body off
and having a separate rolling chassis in the same space isn't an
option for me at this time.  I have paid too much rent for storing it
over the years and have decided to either fix it up or sell it cheap.
  Not an easy decision for me, especially when the body is in pretty
good shape overall and the engine seems OK.  Any suggestions are
appreciated.
           Sincerely Yours,
              Jim Hillmar

Back in the early 70's someone said that the original Herbie(a '63
Standard model) had a "...full-blown Poesche engine"(and Porsche
transaxle) which allowed for its amazing performance in the original
movie.
  Note: The "new Beetle" is NOT a Volkswagen any more than the Morris
Minor 1000 is one, as a matter of fact the Morris is more along the
lines of what would constitute a VW than the re-badged Audi is. Both
the Morris Minor and the Audi Golf-based new beetle mock the shape of
the Volkswagen body and have front-mounted water cooled in-line fours.


  --- In fweem@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <dragnetadam12@a...> wrote:
> Hey there fweemers. I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I'm
> looking forawrd to the movie "Herbie Fully Loaded" this weekend.
> Although the writing may be lousy, the really important thing is we
> see our favorite Bug back in action. In some of the clips, Herbie
now
> sports a new engine (displacement unknown, though still air-cooled)
> with dual Webers and a Bosch alternator in place of the 40hp. At
least
> they are using a '63 Bug (though I would be O.K. with a Super
Beetle)
> instead of the faux New Beetle (which would be blasphemous). Anyhoo,
> if you go then I'm looking forward to any comments. Take care.
>
> Joe
>
> Proud Owner Of A '72 Super Beetle

Hey there fweemers. I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I'm
looking forawrd to the movie "Herbie Fully Loaded" this weekend.
Although the writing may be lousy, the really important thing is we
see our favorite Bug back in action. In some of the clips, Herbie now
sports a new engine (displacement unknown, though still air-cooled)
with dual Webers and a Bosch alternator in place of the 40hp. At least
they are using a '63 Bug (though I would be O.K. with a Super Beetle)
instead of the faux New Beetle (which would be blasphemous). Anyhoo,
if you go then I'm looking forward to any comments. Take care.

Joe

Proud Owner Of A '72 Super Beetle

The following fweem poll is now closed.  Here are the
final results:


POLL QUESTION: Lowered Type 1 with flat black paint
jobTricked Out How???

CHOICES AND RESULTS
- Lowered Type 1 with flat black paint job loud exhaust, 2 votes, 28.57%
- restoration stock height original color interior and pea shooter exhaust, 3
votes, 42.86%
- Lifted Upright sting baja fenders caged engine, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Airbaged slick paint job and more chrome than you know what to do with, 2
votes, 28.57%

INDIVIDUAL VOTES
- Lowered Type 1 with flat black paint job loud exhaust
      - jdegca@...
      - dragnetadam12@...
- restoration stock height original color interior and pea shooter exhaust
      - ottojay54@...
      - markwalters@...
      - psychedelicbus2003@...
- Lifted Upright sting baja fenders caged engine
- Airbaged slick paint job and more chrome than you know what to do with
      - rokurmen@...
      - redstriper05@...


For more information about this group, please visit
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fweem

For help with Yahoo! Groups, please visit
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/

This is my 1967 Bug. It has taken me 4 years to get it on
the street. The picture was taken at Bug In #32 in Southern
California.
I am running a 2007cc stroker motor with dual Dellorto's, Engle 120
cam and DPR 78.4mm Crank. 90.5 pistons. Brothers Machining Heads. Car
came out of a horse barn and was completely rusted out from
horse "poop" and water. Body off
restoration included new heater channels and floor panels. Much
credit
goes to my friend "RJ" for his help.

Santa Monica 9am. Cruise down Route 66.

>>I was wondering about if there's any difference between VW type 34
and type 14 headlight rims. I want to buy a pair for my 1969 VW 345.<<

Don't hold me to it, but I think there's no difference between
headlight rims on the Type III and Type I Ghias. You could ask The
Samba. They would be better at answering your question.

Joe

Your Moderator And Proud Owner of A '72 Super Beetle

http://www.thesamba.com

Enter your vote today!  A new poll has been created for the
fweem group:

Lowered Type 1 with flat black paint
jobTricked Out How???

   o Lowered Type 1 with flat black paint job loud exhaust
   o restoration stock height original color interior and pea shooter exhaust
   o Lifted Upright sting baja fenders caged engine
   o Airbaged slick paint job and more chrome than you know what to do with


To vote, please visit the following web page:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fweem/surveys?id=1711452

Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are
not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups
web site listed above.

Thanks!