Well I FINALY got my block and crank back from the machine shop. I
have had the engine blue printed to .0015" main bearing oil
clearance, .0015 rod clearance and .0035 piston to cylinder clearance
(This is according to the manufacture, JE)

I took the crank and rod/piston assembly to DYNOPRO and had it
balanced. The crank cam out to be completely ZEROED and the piston
rod assembly was only 1 gram difference. (Spec is within two grams)

So now I have a balanced and blue printed engine. The pistons are
10.5:1 JE pistons connected to Eagle rods. To seal the pistons are a
set of TOTAL SEAL rings that have a "no gap" second compression ring.
This works by having the main rings gap sealed by a second ring with
its gap 180 degrees apart from the top gap

I plastigauged all my bearing surfaces to verify the machine shops
work and measured piston and ring clearances.

The main bearing bed plate is held on by ARP stud set, but I had to
replace 4 of the studs with bolts from the windage tray. Windage tray
is to help with high RPM performance.

I decided to put a mechanical engine temp sender in the block at an
existing plugged hole in the block. I did have to drill it out and
tap it for the unit I chose to use. The tapped hole for the oil
pressure switch is gonna be used for a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

Cleaned up the block and painted. Assembled the crank, pistons/rods,
new melling oil pump, new water pump and just placed the head on to
see how things are looking. (SEE PICTURES IN THE PHOTOS SECTION OF
THE "RMNEON" YAHOO GROUP)

See previous posts for what has been done to the head.

I have installed the vacuum, oil pressure, water temp, and air/fuel
gauges and hooked up the first two until the new engine is dropped in.

The AUTOMETER two gauge pod for the A pillar looks and works great,
and the two gauge instrument cluster was also easy to install and
looks good too. (Pictures in PHOTOS; you know where)

Well that is it for now, I will not know if these upgrades are gonna
pay off until I break-in and a DYNO run.