Hello,

I have a special tool in my kit for the square head bolts on my
sidevalve.  However, the rear end of the tool is round, so I can't use
the troque wrench w/ it.  A normal socket either doesn't fit, or
doesn't pass the holes on the side of the head.  Any ideas, to be able
to torque the head bolts properly, using a common torque wrench?

Thanks,
Gui

Thanks George, It is a float problem on the right carb, the float needle looks
like a
finish nail and thats on a brand new carb (r75 reproduction) . I did not know
the
tolerance limit on a chang for the cyl bore I didn't think that it was that
large.  I will
measure the piston tommorow  and let you know the size.



--- In cjmechanicalhelp@yahoogroups.com, george baker <geo46er@y...> wrote:
> Hi Mike,
>      Generally speaking one would measure a cylinder
> in three or four spots on the X and Y axis. Usually a
> difference of more than .002 inch would indicate time
> for re-bore. However, we are not talking high tech
> here and as long as its running I'd say run er till
> shes blows.
>      Sounds as if you've got a float/needle problem on
> the right side. Try turning the petcock off and see if
> it clears up just before it runs out of gas.
>
>                                justa thought,
>                                      G.B.
> PS. Could you tell me the piston pin diameter??
>
>
> --- mchlranft <mchlranft@y...> wrote:
> >
> > does anyone know if this is to far out of norm.
> > diameters = Rt cyl, 3 o'clock/9 o'clock
> > position 3.056", 6/12 o'clock.  3.063, rim of cyl.
> > 3.071 6/12 o'clock, 3.060" 3/9
> > o'clock.  thats .011 out of round,
> > lft. cyl. 3.055 3/9 o'clock , 3.068 6/12 o'clock,
> > thats .013
> > 'out of round.  rim 3.070 6/12 o'clock , 3.068 3/9
> > o'clock. I have out of round
> > cylenders, This engine  has only 700 km on it ,
> > starts easy and runs ok , except for
> > current carb problems , I can turn the mixture
> > needle in all the way on the right cyl
> > and it still blows black smoke , have new carbs
> > coming but would like to ride in the
> > mean time.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com

Hi Mike,
      Generally speaking one would measure a cylinder
in three or four spots on the X and Y axis. Usually a
difference of more than .002 inch would indicate time
for re-bore. However, we are not talking high tech
here and as long as its running I'd say run er till
shes blows.
      Sounds as if you've got a float/needle problem on
the right side. Try turning the petcock off and see if
it clears up just before it runs out of gas.

                                justa thought,
                                      G.B.
PS. Could you tell me the piston pin diameter??


--- mchlranft <mchlranft@...> wrote:
>
> does anyone know if this is to far out of norm.
> diameters = Rt cyl, 3 o'clock/9 o'clock
> position 3.056", 6/12 o'clock.  3.063, rim of cyl.
> 3.071 6/12 o'clock, 3.060" 3/9
> o'clock.  thats .011 out of round,
> lft. cyl. 3.055 3/9 o'clock , 3.068 6/12 o'clock,
> thats .013
> 'out of round.  rim 3.070 6/12 o'clock , 3.068 3/9
> o'clock. I have out of round
> cylenders, This engine  has only 700 km on it ,
> starts easy and runs ok , except for
> current carb problems , I can turn the mixture
> needle in all the way on the right cyl
> and it still blows black smoke , have new carbs
> coming but would like to ride in the
> mean time.
>
>
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

does anyone know if this is to far out of norm.  diameters = Rt cyl, 3 o'clock/9
o'clock
position 3.056", 6/12 o'clock.  3.063, rim of cyl. 3.071 6/12 o'clock, 3.060"
3/9
o'clock.  thats .011 out of round,
lft. cyl. 3.055 3/9 o'clock , 3.068 6/12 o'clock, thats .013
'out of round.  rim 3.070 6/12 o'clock , 3.068 3/9 o'clock. I have out of round
cylenders, This engine  has only 700 km on it , starts easy and runs ok , except
for
current carb problems , I can turn the mixture needle in all the way on the
right cyl
and it still blows black smoke , have new carbs coming but would like to ride in
the
mean time.

Hi everyone,

I just added a parts diagram folder in the files folder.  I have converted all
22 pages into a
PDF file.

I hope you find this useful.

Fred Balanay
San Jose, California

Some of us don't use the metric system, how about some spec's in
inches, lbs, gallons, ounces, PSI and so on. I sure I'm not the only
one without metric feeler gauges.
Cheers, Dan

Preparation before Start

Gasoline filling

Although the CJ750 can use low octane fuels (80 RON minimum), the motorcycle is
tuned to operate with a minimum of 90RON, it is therefore recommended to use the
highest-octane leaded fuel available at the pumps. Before starting, always first
check
gasoline and oil levels. Refill if levels are low. Refill gasoline directly
through the filter
to gasoline tank. The gasoline level should be 15-20mm below the edge of filler
port.
Should the motorcycle need to be operated on a lower RON fuel, the ignition
timing
must be adjusted to allow operation without engine detonation (pinking).

Oil filling

  The oil level should be maintained between the upper and lower mark lines of
the oil dipstick.. To measure oil level correctly, the threaded plug on the
dipstick must not be screwed in. The oil inside gearbox and rear drive casing
should
be filled to start of the plug threads.

  Before oil filling, check the oil drain plugs are correctly tightened.

  Check tyre pressures, connection of the sidecar to main frame, battery
electrolyte levels and that no fuel or oil leaks are apparent.




  Engine Starting

There are two kinds of starting devices for the engines listed in this manual.
One is
the kickstarter and the other is the starter motor. The engine can be started on
completion of the above preparation.

The following steps should be taken for "cold" engine starting.

  Turn on the gasoline control lever. This lever has three positions. The down
position is the normal "Running" position and up is the "Reserve" position.
(When the
lever is in the Reserve position the motorcycle has a further range of
approximately
20 km). When the motorcycle is not in operation the lever should be set to the
left
position which is "OFF".

Set the foot gear shift lever to neutral gear position between gear positions
No.1 and No.2 .

Check to see whether the gear lever is at neutral position by stepping lightly
depressing the kickstarter . If the wheels do not move, the neutral gear
position is
set. If the wheels move forward, the neutral gear position is not set. The
engine can
be started only with the kickstarter if the neutral gear position is properly
set.

  Press down the button attached on the float chamber cover until the gasoline
spills out from the float chamber cover of the carburetor.

  Close the air valve approximately by half (1/2).

  Twist the throttle fully open and then return it to a 1/8 open position.

  Operate the kick starter 4-5 times to turn the crankshaft over. The cylinders
will
then be pre-charged with fuel/air mixture and lubricating oil supplied to
running
surfaces.
  Switch on the ignition switch. (Turn the key counterclockwise for daytime
riding
and clockwise for night riding).

Press the kickstarter down slightly by foot to make the brake block insert into
the ratchet wheel of the starting gear (No free travel is felt). The motorcycle
can then
be started by operating the kickstarter fully through its travel.

If the starter motor is used, first set the gearshift lever to neutral position.
  or hold the clutch lever with left hand to fully disengage the clutch. Press
the
starting button with right hand and crank the engine over for not more than 3
seconds. Interval between starter motor operations should not be less than 2
seconds. If after three attempts the motorcycle has not started, wait 1 minute
before
repeating the procedure.

  Reversing the motorcycle (with sidecar)

For reverse driving, operate as follows:

Stop the motorcycle.

Set the gearshift to neutral

Apply the reverse lever to the reverse position.

Reverse the motorcycle.

  Engine Shutdown

  To shutdown the engine, close the throttle, then switch off the ignition
switch.

  After engine shutdown, remove the ignition key and set the gasoline control
knob to the OFF position.




 

CJ750 motorcycles require the correct running in procedure to ensure   optimum
performance and durability. It is well worth taking extra care during   the
first 3000
km of operation to ensure that moving parts are given the   opportunity to bed
in
properly. Try and avoid freeway driving during the   first two phases of the
running in
schedule if possible. When riding on a   freeway during the break in period,
avoid
maintaining the same load and RPM   for extended distances. During the run in
period
it is good practice to   continuously increase speed slowly to the maximum speed
allowable, and then   slowly decelerate repeating this in a continuous cycle.
Incorrect
running in   can result in to reduced performance and engine life, as well as
higher
fuel   and oil consumption.



Running in can be divided into three phases -



Phase

Required operating conditions

0 - 500 Km



Light load and low RPM operation

500- 2000 Km



Moderate Load and moderate RPM operation

2000 - 3000 km



Normal operation but avoiding  full load or high RPM operation



Recommended maximum speeds during the first two phases are –



Maximum Speed (Km/h)

Break in distance (Km/h)



0 - 500

500 - 2000

Gear - 1st

15

15

- 2nd

30

35

- 3rd

40

50

- 4th

60

70



  In order to assist you in limiting the load and speed during the     running in
period,
the caps of the two carburetors are provided with stop     screws (see Fig.2).
These
stops limit the height of throttle valve. After     each phase of the running in
period,
the stop screw should be cut off at     the slotted position as shown alongside.





Although the top screw does help to limit load and speed, it is still  
necessary to take
care and operate the motorcycle carefully in running in   period. Long distance
driving
is not advisable during the 0 to 500-km   running-in period to avoid build up of
excessive engine temperatures. The   maximum allowable cylinder head temperature
is 180 degree Celsius. The engine   oil must be checked daily and must be
replaced at
500km.

On completion of running-in period, re torque the cylinder head bolts   with a
hot
engine.



  (Note: Use of synthetic oils is not recommended, during   the running in
period).

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the cjmechanicalhelp
group.

   File        : /General info/General Info cj 750
   Uploaded by : mchlranft <mchlranft@...>
   Description : general

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cjmechanicalhelp/files/General%20info/General%20In\
fo%20cj%20750

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

mchlranft <mchlranft@...>

Engine

Depending on the model, the CJ750 motorcycle is equipped with either a twin-
cylinder side valve "Flathead" engine, or an Over Head Valve (OHV), four-stroke,
air-
cooled engine. Both of these engines use the original BMW "boxer engine" design
principle. The horizontally apposed cylinder arrangement ensures proper cooling
and
easy serviceability.

750 cc Sidevalve engine fitted to  M1M models

750 cc OHV engine fitted to M1S   models

During hot weather operation it is important to observe the engine, powertrain
and
the running gear to ensure that overheating does not occur. Under normal
operating
conditions overheating will not occur after the motorcycle has been run-in,
unless
however, the machine is fully loaded and operating under high engine RPM for
extended periods. As a guideline, the temperature of the cylinder heads should
not
exceed 180°C-220°C.



The crankgear incorporates the cylinders, the pistons with piston rings and
pins, the
connecting rods with bearings and the crankshaft with the flywheel.



The engine cylinders are identical in design and interchangeable. A gasket and
o-ring
are fitted between the cylinder and the crankcase. When mounting the left-hand
cylinder, see that the holes in the gasket are in line with the oil feed and
drain back
holes crankcase.



Piston, piston rings and piston pins. Engine pistons have four milled groves
(sidevalve) or three milled grooves (OHV) for the piston rings. The piston is
connected
to the connecting rod by means of a floating gudgeon pin, which is retained by
circlips. When installing new piston rings the ring gap clearance must be
checked and
if necessary adjusted to 0.3mm to 0.4mm. Piston to bore clearance should be set
to
0.07mm.



Crankshaft and connecting rod. The engine crankshaft and connecting rod assembly
are of a multi-piece design with the crankshaft and (conrod big end) running on
roller
bearings. The piston gudgeon pin runs on a brass bush in the conrod small end.
Servicing of the crank is not recommended unless the correct equipment to verify
crank accuracy is available. It is generally cheaper to replace the crankshaft
and
connecting rods as a unit in the cases of severe damage.



Crankcase. The crankcase accommodates the cylinders, the timing gear and
auxiliary
mechanisms, as well as serving as the oil reservoir with the oil pan. The engine
is
provided with forced ventilation of the crankcase. The breather is located in
the
timing gear cover.  The crankcase ventilation system is routed to the air
cleaner.



  Valve Timing Gear

The valve timing gear controls the intake of the fuel/air mixture into the
cylinders
and waste gas exhausted into the atmosphere. The intake and the exhaust valves
are
interchangeable on sidevalve engines, but not on OHV engines. The camshaft
rotates
in two bearings inside the engine crankcase, a ball bearing at the front and a
bronze
blind bushing at the rear.

Correct valve timing is obtained by aligning the mark grooves on the timing
gears.
This must be carefully observed during disassembly and reassembly of the engine.



Valve adjustment. It is very important to adjust the valves properly. Valves are
adjusted with a cold engine. The clearance should be 0.1-mm cold or 0.07mm hot.
In
service, the clearances will change due to bedding-in of valvetrain components.

It is important to readjust the clearances after grinding or partial disassembly
of the
valve mechanism. For this purpose, put a pan under the cylinder head, take off
the
head cap and drain off accumulated oil. Turn the crankshaft using the kick
lever.
When the intake valve begins to close, set the clearance for the exhaust valve,
and
when the exhaust valve begins to open, set the intake valve clearances. Check
the
clearance between the larger end of the rocker arm and the valve stem. If the
clearance happens to be larger or smaller than specification, slacken off the
locknut
and by turning the adjusting bolt in or out, set the required clearance with a
feeler
gauge. Lock the adjusting bolt with the locknut and then check the clearance
again. In
the course of running in, check valve clearances after 500 km and again at 3000
Km.
Readjust clearances on the cold engine only.



Engine maintenance. During everyday preventive maintenance, clean the engine
from
mud and dust paying special attention to the cooling fins, fouling of the
cooling fins
will reduce the engine cooling. Check engine crankcase, cylinders and cylinder
heads
for leaks of oil and fuel.



Oil Filtration

The CJ750 is not fitted with the modern disposable oilcartridge type filter but
utilises
a oil slinger type centrifugal filter which is integrated  with the crankshaft.
The oil
slingers will only require servicing at approximately 70 000km. The servicing of
the
slingers requires the removal and dis-assembly of the crankshaft. This is a
specialist
procedure and should preferably be carried out by a motorcycle dealer with the
necessary expertise.



Oil Consumption

If oil consumption exceeds 500ml per 500 km, replace the piston rings.

Note:  Facts about oil consumption.

Petrol engines depend upon oil to lubricate cylinder walls, pistons and piston
rings.
With each stroke of the piston a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder walls
and on the
combustion stroke it is burned away by the combustion flame. If an engine burns
just
one drop of oil on every firing stroke, it would use approximately 200ml oil per
kilometer.Consumption of this amount is unheard of in the internal combustion
engine but all engines do however use some oil to prevent rapid engine wear.

The rate of oil consumption depends upon the quality and viscosity of the oil in
the
crankcase, the engine r/min, the temperature and the amount of dilution and
oxidization in the crankcase.High speed operating conditions will greatly
accelerate
oil consumption due to the inability of the piston rings to scavenge the oil
completely
at higher r/min and high engine temperatures. It has been proved in tests that
an
internal combustion engine uses seven times the quantity of oil at 100 km/h than
it
does at 60 km/h.

Modern engine manufacturers consider oil consumption of up to 2,0 liters per
1000
km during the first 10 000 km to be considered normal, as it can take up to 10
000
km for the piston rings to bed in to the cylinder walls. Consumption should then
drop
to approximately 1 litre per 1000 km.

Bearing in mind that the design of the CJ 750 has its origins in the pre-war
era,
similar oil consumption to this is could be considered to be normal for a CJ750.

It must also be borne in mind however that the total crankcase capacity of the
CJ 750
is a little less than 2 liters and it is therefore imperative that the oil
levels be checked
on a regular basis. Recommended that a daily check on the oil level be
performed,
and that the oil level be checked during every fuel stop on a long distance
trip.



Powertrain

The power transmission of the motorcycle is comprised of the clutch, gearbox,
propeller shaft and the final drive.



Clutch

The clutch transmits torque from the engine to the gearbox, and allows dis-
engagement of the engine from the gearbox during shifting of the gears, and when
braking to a stop. The clutch allows smooth starting of the motorcycle from
rest, as
well as protecting the powertrain against damage when the engine speed or drive
wheel speed is suddenly changed. The clutch is of dry double-disk design.

The clutch release mechanism is controlled by means of the lever on the left
grip of
the handle bar. With the clutch lever released, the engine is engaged to the
gearbox.
When the clutch lever is squeezed, the engine is disengaged from the gearbox.

Use the clutch lever for starting from rest and for gear shifting. Under heavy
traffic
conditions avoid slipping the clutch excessively, as this will cause heavy wear
of the
disks. When stopped for any length of time (e.g., a traffic light), it is best
to shift into
neutral and release the clutch lever. Holding the clutch in for long periods
will cause
excessive heating and wear.



Clutch adjustment. The clutch control lever (located on the handle bar) should
have a
5 - 8 mm play. This play is measured at the lever end. The normal play of the
lever
ensures full engagement and disengagement of the clutch. If the play is smaller
than
specified, the clutch slips. With excessive play, the clutch drags, i.e. the
disengagement is incomplete. Use the adjusting screw on the clutch control cable
to
adjust the play.



Gearbox with Reverse Gear

The principal parts of the gearbox are the split box with covers, clutch shaft
and main
shaft with gears and shift sleeves, the gear shift mechanism, the kick starter
and the
reverse gear engagement mechanism.



Shafts. The clutch shaft is installed in the ball and roller bearings. The shaft
is made
integral with the gear rims of the 1 st , 2 nd and 3 rd gears. The gear of the 4
th gear
is fixed on a segment key. The main shaft is set on two ball bearings. The
pinions of
the 1 st , 2 nd , 3 rd and 4 th gears rotate freely over the splines outer
surface. Two
sleeves are set on the splines of the main shaft, the gears are connected with
the
shaft by means of the gearshift sleeve. Involute teeth are threaded on the outer
surface of the engagement sleeve of the 1 st and 2 nd gears. The gears are
lubricated
through labyrinth cavities in the casing, axial and radial bores in the shaft.
The gear
of the kick-starter has an additional small rim. The intermediate gear is
installed on
the neck of the bracket that travels in the longitudinal direction of the shaft.
Bronze
bushings are pressed into the gear holes of the kick-starter, intermediate and 1
st
gear of the main shaft.



The kick-starter consists of shaft with pawl, the kick lever, return spring and
kick-
starter gear. The shaft is supported by the bushings provided in the gearbox
casing.



The gear shift mechanism . Gearshifting is performed in sequence. Downshifts are
made by pushing down front of the gearshift lever, while upshifts are made by
pushing down on the rear of the gearshift lever arm.



The reverse gear engagement mechanism consists of quadrant with a shaft with the
reverse gear engagement lever secured on it, together with an intermediate gear
set
on the bracket. The intermediate gear travels along the shaft, from the reverse
gear
engagement quadrant. When the reverse gear is engaged, the intermediate gear
travels with the bracket along the shaft and connects the small rim of the
starting
gear with the rim of the sleeve engaging the 1 st and 2 nd gears on the main
shaft.
The reverse gear must be engaged from neutral. When the reverse gear engagement
lever is returned to its initial position, the gear shift mechanism is set into
the neutral
position.



  DRIVESHAFT

The driveshaft incorporates a flexible joint, the driveshaft and the universal
joint. The
flexible joint is a rubber-coupling sleeve. The propeller shaft is aligned by
means of
the ball end of the main shaft that enters the socket in the front end of the
propeller
shaft.



Brakes

Brakes should be "bedded in" during the initial running in period. Speeds during
this
period should not exceed 70 km/h with sidecar attached, 90 km/h without sidecar
(see "Speeds Recommended for Running-in" table).

Follow bedding in procedures carefully. Make approximately 100 stops using 75%
of
full braking power. This can be done over several periods and need not be done
in
one session. Choose an area with clean, dry pavement and no obstructions. Travel
in
a straight line and apply both the hand (front) brake as well as the foot (rear)
brake.After burnishing the brake shoes, adjust your brakes on each wheel to
reduce
the gap between shoes and drums. This procedure will ensure maximum braking
performance during the running-in period and is essential before raising your
top
speed, after your CJ750 has been carefully run in.

Hi all,
Regarding the tyre pressures given in this document, I had never heard
of tyre pressure measured in "atmospheres" so I looked up my conversion
tables and found that 22 psi (pounds per square inch) is equal to 152
KPa (KiloPascals) and 36 psi = 248 KPa.
The 150 and 250 marks on your tyre gauge should be close enough.
I guess this means that one "atmosphere" must equal 100 KPa.

Phil
<><

Phil Smith
IT Teacher - Elementary campus
International Christian School, Hong Kong
International Christian School E-mail: SmithP@...
International Christian School Web site: http://www.ics.edu.hk
International Christian School Intranet: http://school.ics.edu.hk
Doctor Disk E-mail: doctordisk@...
MSN Messenger: 9Dragons
Web-site: http://www.drdisk.com.hk
Testimony: http://www.drdisk.com.hk/PhilSmith/about.htm
Motorbikes: http://www.drdisk.com.hk/motorbikes.htm (under construction)
Weather: http://www.drdisk.com.hk/cyclones.htm


-----Original Message-----
From: cjmechanicalhelp@yahoogroups.com
To: cjmechanicalhelp@yahoogroups.com
Date: 19 Mar 2005 12:33:19 -0000
Subject: [cjmechanicalhelp] New file uploaded to cjmechanicalhelp

>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> This email message is a notification to let you know that
> a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the cjmechanicalhelp
> group.
>
>   File        : /CHANG JIANG MOTORCYCLE DATA.doc
>   Uploaded by : gardebledg <gardebledg@...>
>   Description : all gaps, oils and air pressure infos
>
> You can access this file at the URL:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cjmechanicalhelp/files/CHANG%20JIANG%20MO
> TORCYCLE%20DATA.doc
>
> To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files
>
> Regards,
>
> gardebledg <gardebledg@...>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Hi,

  Just sent a file with often asked stuff.
  REGARDS
  GERALD

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the cjmechanicalhelp
group.

   File        : /CHANG JIANG MOTORCYCLE DATA.doc
   Uploaded by : gardebledg <gardebledg@...>
   Description : all gaps, oils and air pressure infos

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cjmechanicalhelp/files/CHANG%20JIANG%20MOTORCYCLE%\
20DATA.doc

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

gardebledg <gardebledg@...>

I am going to send files to this group soon. I'll send them with
power point and/or microsoft office. So if you do not have it yet,
please get it !
  REGARDS
  GERALD

Hi All , I attempted to post 2 pdf files but they froze up yahoo, I wil try
another
format on sat. I posted a carb file in pictures but it is empty,

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the cjmechanicalhelp
group.

   File        : /CJ-MntSchd.txt
   Uploaded by : bulletrider234 <utitt@...>
   Description : Maintenance Schedule

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cjmechanicalhelp/files/CJ-MntSchd.txt

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

bulletrider234 <utitt@...>

Sorry, the maintenance schedule came up warped.
In my email it looks good though...
Will try to correct it later... maybe with a file attached or so...
No time now... must go...

;-)

Uwe

Hi guys,

Here the numbers that I stole off the web.
NOTE: all should valid for the OHV engine, but I have no idea if that
numbers work for SV too (or are correct AT ALL).
If you find wrong numbers, or hav any addtional info, PLEASE (with
sugar on top)let me know!

Cheers

Uwe





1) MISC DATA:
Clearance     140 mm  (5.6")
Track        1170 mm  (3' 10")
Wheelbase    1420 mm  (5')
Height       1000 mm  (3' 5")
Width        1500 mm  (5' 2")
Length       2400 mm  (8' 4")
Dry weight   340kg    (770 lbs)

2) ENGINE
Volume       746 cm^3
Bore          78 mm
Stroke        78 mm
Compression   8:1
Fuel          24 l (5.5 gal.) Regular (87 Octane)
Engine oil    2 l (2.2 qrt.)  20W50
Intake valve  0.10 mm       (0.004")
Exhaust valve 0.15 mm       (0.006")
Ign. Pnt. gap 0.4 - 0.45 mm (0.016" - 0.018")
Ign. timing   0.5 - 1.0 mm  (0.02" - 0.04") before TDC
Carburator    28 mm         (1.1")
Carb. Mainjet 0.93 mm       (0.037")

3) DRIVE TRAIN
Transmission    740 g (26 oz) 20W50 or 80W90
Final Drive     140 g (5 oz)  20W50 or 80W90
Clutch          2 Plate Dry
Tire size       3.5/3.75 x 19
Tire press.     1900 hPA (28 PSI) front/ 2100-3100 hPA (30-45 PSI)
rear
Wheel bearings  NAPA 6204-2RS, Fafnir 204 PP, Koyo 62042RSC3

4) ELECTRIC
Battery       12V, 28 Ah
Turn Signals  #1176 front, #1103 rear
Tail Light    #1176
Head Light    #6014 or #6024
Speedometer Light     NAPA part 1813
Sidecar Running Light NAPA part 17131
Solid State Regulator Niehoff WA 709 (for 1974-6 Porsche 911 and 914)
                       Standard Motor Parts (SMP) VR124
                       (Black wire goes to ground, green wire to black
                       wire on bike, red wire connects to black/white
                       wire on bike)

5) OTHER SPARE PARTS
Petcock Honda CB-550 (or potentially other '70s Honda)

6) TORQUES
Cyl. Heads                   29-33 Nm   21.4-24.4 ft.lbs
Flywheel screws              22-25 Nm   16-18.5 ft.lbs
Cylinder base                38-42 Nm   28-30 ft.lbs

Top shock abs. pinch bolt    21-30 Nm   16-22 ft.lbs
Bottom shock abs. pinch bolt 36-50 Nm   26.5-37 ft.lbs
Bearing nut                  30-34 Nm   22-25 ft.lbs

Oil pump bolt                16-18 Nm   12-14 ft.lbs
Engine sump                   8-10 Nm   6-7.5 ft.lbs
Final drive case nuts        14-18 Nm   10-13 ft.lbs

Pinion bearing nut             7-9 Nm    5-7 ft.lbs
Reverse gear lever           22-28 Nm   16-21 ft.lbs
Steering head nut            14-16 Nm   10-12 ft.lbs

Conversions: 1 Nm = 0.738 ft.lbs, 1 ft.lbs = 1.35 Nm

7) MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Part             Qty    Action        Lube         Intervall
                                                    PDI   1k  3k  5k
Alternator       1      Lube          Cal Grease    *             *
rear bearing

Wheel bearing    6      Clean/grease  Cal grease    *             *

Steering head    2      Clean/grease  Cal grease    *             *
bearing

Distributor      1      Lube          20W50         *         *   *
felt

Clutch/Break     2      Lube          Cal grease    *         *   *
cable

Crankcase        1      Oil change    20W50         *    *    *   *

Gearbox          1      Oil change    80W90         *    *    *   *

Sidecar torque   1      Clean/Lube    Cal grease    *         *   *
bar

Sidecar univers. 1      Clean/Lube    Cal grease    *         *   *
joint

Sidecar spring   2      Clean/Lube    Cal grease    *         *   *
plate

Final Drive      1      Lube change   80W90         *    *    *   *

Break camshaft   2      Clean/Lube    Cal grease    *             *

Front fork oil   2      Drain/Fill    ATF           *             *
                        (100 ml each)

Throtle twist    1      Clean/grease  Cal grease    *             *
grip

Air cleaner      1      Clean/Lube    20W50         *         *   *

Speedo cable     1      Lube          Cal grease    *             *

Foot break       1      Lube          Cal grease    *             *
linkage

Hi guys,

Sorry, I can't contribute much, since I don't have my CJ (OHV) yet,
but I am confident this will change during the next month or so.
I collected a few numbers (valve clearance, point gaps, ...) from the
web, that seemed useful enough to make it into my notebook. I will
set up a copy later.

Cheers

Uwe

Thanks again Gerald, I have a note book that I have been filling
with what ever information I can find, ths will be a great help.
Even small details are needed.
Dan

I've found my old strobe timing light.  Does anyone know the dynamic
timing at ?rpm for an OHV engine.  I've set it static but it would
be nice if I could set it up dynamically.

Paul Gardner

Thanks Gerald, a great idea!

Yes, thanks Greald.  Great idea.  I like the title "Chang Jiang Shop
Manual" ... if we all work diligently we shall soon have one.

Excellent idea, G.

All the best,

Dan
http://changjiangunlimited.com

Hi Gerald, Thank you for starting this group and inviting me to oin it means a
lot to
me.