>Turns out my friend got me a couple of  rear fender skirts from the
>same '67.  (I like to call those "slabs", but I'll try to use the
>proper terms).
>
>Will the '67 skirts fit my '68??  That would be great because one of
>mine is pretty rough.
>

If you are going to use proper terms you need to get one of these books.
What you call "slabs" or fender skirts is referred to in proper Cadillacise
as "Shield, Rear Fender Wheel Opening," :-)  Just kidding,  main thing we
know what the other is talking about.

Yes the fender skirts for '67 and '68 have the same part number.

Glen
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At 05:06 PM 3/24/98 -0500, Jil wrote:
>> >Saw a sign on a Mazda 323: "16 Valves"
>> >Strange. Can you get away with less?
>> >
>
>When cars first started coming out with everything but their owner's
>manuals written on the side of them, I got out the lettering kit and did
>some work on the back of my 455-powered, 4-barrel carbed 1976 Buick:
>
>16 VALVE, MULTI VENTURI FUEL SYSTEM
>
>I had a few people tell me, in rather awed tones, that they never heard
>of an older car having such a thing ...

LOL!!  Jil, as a former owner of a similar Buick (a '74), I got a particular
kick out of this one.

Actually, you can make a lot of jaws drop these days just by translating 455
cubes, or say 472 or 500 for a Caddy, into liters.  When you consider your
typical 4 cylinder rice burner is about 2 liters, eight liters sounds to
them like you have more than one engine!!

Smooth sailing,

FRANK PERCH
Captain and Dockmaster of the Land Yacht Marina
perches@...
landyacht9@...
http://www.voicenet.com/~perches/landycht.html

"And you may find yourself . . . behind the wheel of a LARGE AUTOMOBILE"

			 -- Talking Heads, "Once in a Lifetime"

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>... although I
>don't think there are any 4- or 6-cylinders that use less than 4 valves
>per cylinder any more, although I could be wrong ...)
>
Yep: Buick's acclaimed 3.8 V-6, for one; it soldiers on in the Olds
Intrig*e...

Back to Caddies,,,

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Wasn't the geo metro a 3 cylinder?

-----Original Message-----
From: Rabbit [mailto:rabbit@...]
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 1998 2:07 PM
To: Cml@...
Subject: [Cml] 16 Valves (Was:Re: Ron'parts {3}


> >Saw a sign on a Mazda 323: "16 Valves"
> >Strange. Can you get away with less?
> >

When cars first started coming out with everything but their owner's
manuals written on the side of them, I got out the lettering kit and did
some work on the back of my 455-powered, 4-barrel carbed 1976 Buick:

16 VALVE, MULTI VENTURI FUEL SYSTEM

I had a few people tell me, in rather awed tones, that they never heard
of an older car having such a thing ...

Jil
Canada
(By the way, a 3-cylinder Pontiac Firefly/Geo Metro/whatever they call
those things in your neck of the woods have 12, I believe ... although I
don't think there are any 4- or 6-cylinders that use less than 4 valves
per cylinder any more, although I could be wrong ...)
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Dear CML'ers,
     I signed up for 5MB free at XOOM.  Also I Believe Yahoo offers and
Recycler
probably lots more.  Right now I want to keep my site at AOL, but use the free
webstorage offered to put up car-related animation on my website.  Because the
animation takes lots MB space, this free storage is perfect.  I wrote my html
on my AOL website to "go get" the animated gifs at these free storage spaces.
In this way I can use the free storage offered and avoid the moniker/logo
scenario.  Maybe some of you can use in this manner.

Michael J. Morton
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/rokmort/cars.html">Great 50's Cars and Parts!
</A>
41 Cadillac Convertible
56 El Dorado Biarritz
60 Cadillac "62" Convertible
and 7 caddy parts cars...
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Hi Alex,
Sorry fr the delay in getting back to you. Just today got the info that
may be of help to you.
The manufactuer that packages the clips in question is Motor Mite. They
package the fastners in quanities of two per unit.
The two splash shield retainers that PEP Boys carries are.....#45510 to
cover GM products 1984-78 (somewhat larger than the next)...#45522 used
on GM/Ford/Chrys. (no particular year) This is the one that I used on my
78 Seville.
No steel fastners available. Since plastics are being widely used as
replacements, it is probably doubtful you`ll find steel fastners. Unless
of course you happen to locate some NOS.
Hope Ive been of some help to you.....

Regards,
Warren...78 Seville Elegante,91 Brougham

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No quick fix.. Special trick paint will NOT create a miricle finish..
If you do a half way job.. expect a halfway finish..
I would be suprised if you could even get enough oil/dirt off the engine
in the compartment to do a paint job that would stick.. Pull
the valve covers off and try painting them after a quick once over
with chemtool.. If the finish ends up looking like what you want..
OK.. I don't recommend painting over old paint.. since it will usually
look like crap.. If you are going to the trouble to take half the engine
apart.. just pull the heads and repaint them.. New Head gaskets aren't
that
expensive.. Otherwise.. Just live with it..
In my first 5 years of Old car ownership.. I tried every product / quick
fix I could.. since I didn't have the resources to do it right..
I wasted a bunch of time and ended up having to do everything over.. 6
times
before I gave up and did it right..

Sorry for the frank talk.. but I've been there.
thanks
Bill




Chris M. wrote:
>
> At 08:31 AM 3/24/98 -0800, Bill McKenna wrote:
> >As self appointed Media blasting expert of the list.. I'd say..
> >DON'T DO IT..  I don't recommend blasting any part without taking it
> >completely apart.. THe sand/beads/ etc. will ruin any machnical parts
> >they get into.
> >And they go everywhere.. <snip<
>
> OK! Duly noted...engine media blasting is OUT! Thanks :)
>
> Now for the next question of the day....just today I rec'd in the mail
> a catalog from the POR-15 folks. They have an engine painting kit
> that is brushed on as opposed to spray on.
>
> Anyone ever try to brush paint the engine enamel? Were the results
> good enough to look like it was factory sprayed (or close), or does it
> come out looking like a cheap suit?
> It sure sounds easier than masking/removing everything for a spray
> job.
> Also, I have a good quality airless electric sprayer. Has anyone
> ever tried one of these for automotive uses such as engines, underhood
> parts, etc.? It would seem that the quality would be better than
> what you get from a can...but I've never tried it.
> I've had bad results (probably due to lack of experience) from anything
> I've sprayed from a can in the past. Runs, drips, etc.
> Although, an airless sprayer, come to think of it, is not too easy
> to use either if I recall :)
> Should I just chuck the whole idea and get a compressor style sprayer?
>
> The underhood portion of my car is in very good condition..the only reason
> I need to paint the engine is because the heads were blasted by the
> shop that did the top end rebuild, and are now starting to rust since
> they never painted them. One of the previous owners also thought it
> was cute to paint the valve covers black. These should be blue, no?
> Thanks!
> Chris M.
> '70 Deville Cnv.
>
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--
+-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
=   Bill McKenna {ISP Lab Engineer}  =
=   130 West Tasman Drive Bld `B'    =
=   San Jose, CA 95134-1706          =
=   Work: (408) 527-2786             =
=   Home: (510) 829-0245             =
=   Email: bmckenna@...        =
+-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+
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Joe & Angela Rakes wrote:
> WOW! The 98 juice hasn't been available here for years... 93 is about as
> good as it gets with regular pump gas. You can occasionally find 98-104
> octane gas sold as "racing fuel" for a significant cost premium.

I remember in Chemistry class working problems that showed mixing two
lower octane fuels would give a higher octane than the ingredients.  For
example, mixing 89 and 92 would give 98?  I had a friend with a Mustang
who did that and claimed it worked.  Not until I took that Chemistry
class did I understand why.  Now I've forgotten (along with everything
else I once knew)!

Does anyone know the details of this?  It's a lot harder to do now
'cause you have to have two transactions at the gas station with the new
style pumps.

Lance
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of them seemed to come from Texas."
Casino Royale. Chapter VII
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Hi Chris,

> Yes, I agree with that, but the offset is only a few degrees duct
> temperature, getting worse as outside temperature rises...benefit
> is the fact that R134A is cheap and readily available. I'll suffer
> a couple of degrees for the cost benefit.

I'm very particular about nearly every aspect of vehicle performance, and
despite living in Canada, A/C is especially important to me.  A 5 to 8 F
higher air discharge temperature on hot days is quite noticeable,
especially for someone who runs the A/C when the ambient temperature is
65 F and drives around with a digital temperature probe in one of the air
vents. <g>  Interestingly, I've never experienced a compressor failure,
and the worst leak rate noted (on cars without any obvious signs of
leakage) has been in the order of 1 pound in 7 years.

> I would stick with R12 also, but (1)it is much more expensive than R134a,
> (2)I have no ability to buy it, and (3)when completely refurbishing an a/c

Getting EPA certification is simple.  The cost is $19.95 and the test can
be performed online (information from George Goble's web site).

> If there are leaks (even thru the hoses) it will leak at a different
> rate for each gas, thus eventually destroying the blend percentages.
> To recharge a R406A system requires removal and disposal of ALL gas, and

While this is the ideal scenario, it appears that R-406a can be "topped
off" about 3 or 4 times.  Evaporation occurs over a wide temperature
range, so this inherent glide helps to compensate for slight changes
in composition, retaining acceptable performance.  Since smaller
molecules (R-22) will leak at a higher rate, it would then be necessary to
add a little pure R-22 to bring the pressure/temperature relationship back
in line.

> a fresh charge of new refrigerant. Not very efficient if you have only a
> small leak that needs recharging once every one or two years.

I'd consider that a fairly big leak! <g>  My '83 Olds used to lose its
charge every winter.  One of the crimped fittings showed signs of oil
leakage.  I sawed off the metal clamp, cut 1.5 inches off of the hose, and
rejoined everything with 2 screw-type hose clamps.  So far, no significant
amount has leaked out (2 years).

> Besides, R406A as of about 4 months ago was not that much less
> expensive than R12, so why bother with all of it's residual problems.

About a year ago, R-406a was about $10 Cdn. ($7 U.S.) a pound (25 lb
container); note that by weight, only 80% of a full R-12 charge is needed.
Since I already have a supply of R-12, my main reason for experimenting
with R-406a was for its improved heat transfer qualities.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@...       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

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At 08:51 AM 3/24/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Todd Fitzgerald wrote:
>
>>   Hi guys/gals,
>>
>>                I would be interested in knowing how people have
>> dealt with
>> the security aspect of their cars.
>> Obviously you can't keep your eye on your car 24 hours a day, but
>> you take
>> that risk of it being stolen.  I had a buddy get his 1961 series 62
>> stolen
>> from his work parking lot.  It was a beautiful car.. black, with
>> black and
>> white interior.  How do I avoid this situation happening to me!
>
>After the theft (and subsequent recovery) of my truck from in front of
>my house last year, I became a little more wary about auto security.
>Old Cadillacs are easy to get into and since the steering column does
>not lock, they are easy to hot-wire and drive away.

Curious.  I have always assumed the average urban car thief (Philadelphia
PA, here) is not particularly interested in a 35 year old Cadillac.  The
most frequently stolen cars are things like Accords, because an Accord can
be sold immediately to a chop shop due to the great demand for the parts.
Urban thieves wouldn't have the slightest idea  what to do with old Caddy
parts.  Also, geez, a big blue 63 Cad with huge tail fins is kinda conspicuous!!

What gives me fits is not parking on the street, but leaving it with a valet
parker.  I have a little note I leave in the car that I hope they read
before they put it into reverse when they want a forward gear, or vice
versa!  Your average parking valet has never seen a car with a PNDLR shift
pattern.

Smooth sailing,

FRANK PERCH
Captain and Dockmaster of the Land Yacht Marina
perches@...
landyacht9@...
http://www.voicenet.com/~perches/landycht.html

"And you may find yourself . . . behind the wheel of a LARGE AUTOMOBILE"

			 -- Talking Heads, "Once in a Lifetime"

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At 02:19 AM 3/23/98 -0500, Glen wrote:
>I will throw some gasoline on the fire here...
>
>My '68 Eldorado has the date code of 10B.
>
>Registration has the "Date first sold" as 11-15-67.
>
>VIN is H8128855.
>
>H = Fleetwood Eldorado
>8 = Model year 1968
>128855 is the 28,855th car built????  Must be for the entire Cadillac line.
> Still 28K cars built by the second week in October of '67?
>
>Parts book list things like "before V.I.No. 226905"  would that mean the
>126,905th car built?  (226905 minus 100000?)
>
>Glen
>

That all makes sense... Your car was built the second week (B) of October
(10), and was shipped & sold on November 11th. AFIK, Cadillacs have always
shared a common "sequencing" (wih the exception of some limited production
models). So yes, yours would likely have been the 28,855th car for that
model year. It's also failry common for the 6 digit sequencing number to
begin with a digit other than "0" (the 100000 you suggest).

Most of the US auto manufacturers have plant tooling changeovers in July or
August, with Job 1 / start of production for the new model year in August or
September. Then for the first couple of months, they get the line speed up &
build a bank of cars before "releasing" them to dealers. This ensures that
the old models will not be crowding the showrooms, and that there will be a
plentiful supply when the new models get there. This was especially true 30
years ago when the average family bought a new car every 2-3 years.

Cadillac Joe
-with-
Margarita, the '74 Eldo convertible
-and-
Dulcinea, the '77 Seville

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Hi there,
I've finally got back into my Hotmail site after downloading over 1,000
messages which kept freezing up my computer so it's good to be able to
read all the up-to-date messages and comments that everyone has!! You
all missed a great Mardi Gras here in New Orleans, the weather was
perfect!!
Anyhow, I noticed today that the headliner on my 78 Seville is starting
to look a little blotchy, there are no tears or rips and the headliner
hoops seem to be doing their job OK. Does anyone have any suggestions on
the best way to clean the headliner without endangering it.
Thanks,
John Emery.

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At 10:37 AM 3/24/98 -0600, Chris wrote:
>At 04:09 PM 3/23/98 -0500, Kevin wrote:
>>R-134a does not perform as well because it has a low critical temperature.
>
>Yes, I agree with that, but the offset is only a few degrees duct
>temperature, getting worse as outside temperature rises...benefit
>is the fact that R134A is cheap and readily available. I'll suffer
>a couple of degrees for the cost benefit.
>
>>R-134a systems use either a POE or PAG lubricant.
>
>ONLY use POE (ester) oil in R12 system conversions...if the results
>are not satisfactory, residual POE oil in the system is compatible
>with R12...you can go back to R12 without having to flush the system.
>But it is advisable to at least drain the compressor oil when going
>back..that's easy to do.
>
>>Personally, I'd stick with R-12, or use a non-flammable, mineral oil
>>compatible substitute like R-406a. In fact, I converted my '80 Fleetwood
>>to R-406a when I replaced the accumulator last year.  R-406a is a blend of
>>3 well known gases (R-22, R-142b, isobutane; 55%/41%/4%).
>
>I would stick with R12 also, but (1)it is much more expensive than R134a,
>(2)I have no ability to buy it, and (3)when completely refurbishing an a/c
>system, it is probable that you will have a leak(s) on the first try.
>With R134a, the loss is only about $18 for an average size caddy.
>
>Regarding R406A, I looked at that extensively. The problem with that
>gas is that the 3 gases in the blend have various molecular structures.
>If there are leaks (even thru the hoses) it will leak at a different
>rate for each gas, thus eventually destroying the blend percentages.
>To recharge a R406A system requires removal and disposal of ALL gas, and
>a fresh charge of new refrigerant. Not very efficient if you have only a
>small leak that needs recharging once every one or two years.
>Besides, R406A as of about 4 months ago was not that much less
>expensive than R12, so why bother with all of it's residual problems.
>
>The real answer is to stick with R12 if you are POSITIVE you have no
>leaks....and convert to R134A if you are not sure. When all leaks
>are eliminated, go to an a/c shop and have them charge it with R12
>if the performance with R134A is not to your liking.
>
>This, of couse, is IMHO :)
>Chris M.
>
>

Last summer, R12 around here was going for about $45 per pound!! At 3-1/2 to
4 lbs in an old car, that's an expensive charge. And you can't get it
(legally) to do yourself... So you have to pay someone else, even though you
have the tools & know how at home. I needed a "top up" until I replaced the
engine (starting soon!!), and got the last can from a friend on whose shelf
it had been sitting for years. Still had the $1.19 price tag on it!! What a
friend: He gave it to me for free! I kept the empty can as a souvenir, and
had ice-cold air throughout the summer. But I'll be converting to R134a this
spring with the new engine & A/C system. At $5 per pound, I can afford to
"lose" some.

BTW, I read an article a couple of years ago (don't remember where) that
discussed the BTU output of automotive air conditioners. They're more
impressive then most people think. The average automotive A/C system from
20-30 years ago put out something like 30-35 thousand BTU's per hour!! But
think about it: they can cool a LARGE black car down from 150°F to 75°F in a
matter of minutes... I haven't seen a home HVAC system that can do that...

The point of this is that most of the old A/C systems are over designed,
especially the ones with A6 compressors. I've noticed that in some of the
R12 to R134a conversion literature, they recommend replacing the condenser
(n front of the radiator) with a "serpentine" type... Well, guess what kind
all of the old cars (that I've seen) have? You guessed it. The newer cheaper
cars have a crossflow type, which has much less heat transfer capacity. So
those vehicles suffer more from the less efficient R134a refrigerant. All of
the A/C folks I've talked to have told me I wouldn't notice a difference
between R12 & R134a in an old car. Most of them also told me (as others have
suggested here) to use the ester oil rather than the PAG type.

When we have a couple of 90°F+ days here this summer, I'll let everyone know
how successful the conversion is (was). :-)

Cadillac Joe
-with-
Margarita, the '74 Eldo convertible
-and-
Dulcinea, the '77 Seville

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Hi CML
Found this article about the recently discussed "Mr Ed"
http://www.classicar.com/articles/dreamart/dreamart.htm
Regards,
Allan Levinson
Sydney, Australia
Pink 1959 Coupe de Ville
http://members.tripod.com/~cool59
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>I've heard that on several of the higher performance new cars (including
>Cadillac's Northstar system), premium is the recommended grade, if not
>"required". Is this correct?
>
>Cadillac Joe
>

That's correct.  My Lincoln Mark VIII with the 32 valve, 4 cam V8 requires
premium, and the late model Cadillacs that I've driven also required
premium.  I always run premium in my old Cadillacs too, though the '50 would
probably do just fine on regular (87 octane).


Gary McKinney
St. Albans, West Virginia
'50 Series 62 Coupe    '66 Eldorado
http://www.GeoCities.com/CapeCanaveral/4246
gmck@...

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At 07:44 AM 3/24/98 -0500, you wrote:
>  Hi guys/gals,
>
>               I would be interested in knowing how people have dealt with
>the security aspect of their cars.
>Obviously you can't keep your eye on your car 24 hours a day, but you take
>that risk of it being stolen.  I had a buddy get his 1961 series 62 stolen
>from his work parking lot.  It was a beautiful car.. black, with black and
>white interior.  How do I avoid this situation happening to me!
>
>  Regards,
>
>            Todd
>
>
>1960, 6229
>
I give my german sheperd access to my garage to keep guard of my car. he`s
tied but has adoor to come in the garage.

mike

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At 07:01 PM 3/23/98 -0500, you wrote:
>At 02:39 PM 3/22/98 PST, Chris wrote:
>>     I filled my Cadillac up the other day at my gas station for
>>$1.009/gallon, and that's what my concern is. Should I spend the extra
>>twenty cents per gallon and go with the Supreme? When I had my
>>Continental, I put regular into the 460, even though I knew an engine of
>>that size and age should be fed higher octane gas. It seemed to run
>>fine, it got the same eight mpg with either grade. Would it be better to
>>use Supreme in an '83 HT4100? I have always just assumed newer cars
>>don't need it. Also, can somebody tell me what IMHO means?
>>
>>
>
>It probably varies by car and driving habits, but I've always run premium
>gas in my older cars. I've tried regular & mid-grade, and have found that I
>get sufficiently better mileage to offset the extra cost. Then I get the
>slight performance improvements for free. Running premium lets me tune the
>cars a little hotter (slight advance on the timing)...
>
>I've heard that on several of the higher performance new cars (including
>Cadillac's Northstar system), premium is the recommended grade, if not
>"required". Is this correct?
>
>Cadillac Joe


It is required in supercharged buicks.

MIKE
64 series 62

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>On another note, has anyone ever sand or media blasted an engine in
>the car? I have a good compressor, so I was thinking of buying a
>sand blasting attachment. I've never used a sand blaster before, and
>was curious as to the level of flying debris in an open area. Is it
>feasable to do this in a garage and/or on the driveway, or will my
>nieghbors call the fire department?
>Thanks,
>Chris M.
>

We sand blasted several parts of my '50.  My recommendation:  DON'T SAND
BLAST, unless you've got the personal protective equipment to do it, such as
hood, air supplied breathing devices, etc.  Also, the mess is unreal.  There
is STILL sand in places that I can't get out, and the mess that the blasting
made in the shop was unbelievable.  Plus, sand is largely silica, which, if
deposited in human lungs, can lead to silicosis.  Not a pretty sight, trust me!

>
Gary McKinney
St. Albans, West Virginia
'50 Series 62 Coupe    '66 Eldorado
http://www.GeoCities.com/CapeCanaveral/4246
gmck@...

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At 06:59 AM 3/24/98 +0100, Rik wrote:
>
>>I've heard that on several of the higher performance new cars (including
>>Cadillac's Northstar system), premium is the recommended grade, if not
>>"required". Is this correct?
>
>
>
>I have always used unleaded 98 octane in my STS. I have never tried anything
>less. The owner's manual says: "only use premium fuel". 98 has always worked
>fine with the car. My 72, 75 and 76 get 95 octane unleaded and my 59 and 66
>use 98 octane leaded, which is still available until 2000.
>
>Regards,
>
>Rik
>
>

WOW! The 98 juice hasn't been available here for years... 93 is about as
good as it gets with regular pump gas. You can occasionally find 98-104
octane gas sold as "racing fuel" for a significant cost premium.

Does anyone know if the European ratings are comparable to the US ratings?

Cadillac Joe
-with-
Margarita, the '74 Eldo convertible
-and-
Dulcinea, the '77 Seville

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Leaded may still be available until 2000, but woe are us who live in
California where it was outlawed a few years ago!  The highest octane
that is now available in unleaded is 92! Most people here in the older
cars use the supreme unleaded (92) and add lead additives to each tank
refil...those old cars nead lead.

Tomm Wells

1959 Coupe De Ville
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At 08:31 AM 3/24/98 -0800, Bill McKenna wrote:
>As self appointed Media blasting expert of the list.. I'd say..
>DON'T DO IT..  I don't recommend blasting any part without taking it
>completely apart.. THe sand/beads/ etc. will ruin any machnical parts
>they get into.
>And they go everywhere.. <snip<

OK! Duly noted...engine media blasting is OUT! Thanks :)

Now for the next question of the day....just today I rec'd in the mail
a catalog from the POR-15 folks. They have an engine painting kit
that is brushed on as opposed to spray on.

Anyone ever try to brush paint the engine enamel? Were the results
good enough to look like it was factory sprayed (or close), or does it
come out looking like a cheap suit?
It sure sounds easier than masking/removing everything for a spray
job.
Also, I have a good quality airless electric sprayer. Has anyone
ever tried one of these for automotive uses such as engines, underhood
parts, etc.? It would seem that the quality would be better than
what you get from a can...but I've never tried it.
I've had bad results (probably due to lack of experience) from anything
I've sprayed from a can in the past. Runs, drips, etc.
Although, an airless sprayer, come to think of it, is not too easy
to use either if I recall :)
Should I just chuck the whole idea and get a compressor style sprayer?

The underhood portion of my car is in very good condition..the only reason
I need to paint the engine is because the heads were blasted by the
shop that did the top end rebuild, and are now starting to rust since
they never painted them. One of the previous owners also thought it
was cute to paint the valve covers black. These should be blue, no?
Thanks!
Chris M.
'70 Deville Cnv.

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>
>But you know one really annoying feature of both sites? It's that da##
>extra browser window that pops up every da** time you go back...
>  You get to test yourself on how fast you can line up on the "X" and
>click it away, but MAN it's annoying!!
>
>
I know about that annoying feature at geocities.   Used to have that feature
on my site.
Fixed by putting in one little code for a geoguide, makes for more pleasant
webpage cruising.  Now if everyone would use that code..............

Just my 2 cents (all the cents I have, or I'd own that 81 Coupe Deville
right now).

Adam Armstrong

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Todd Fitzgerald wrote:
>
>   Hi guys/gals,
>
>                I would be interested in knowing how people have dealt with
> the security aspect of their cars.
> Obviously you can't keep your eye on your car 24 hours a day, but you take
> that risk of it being stolen.  I had a buddy get his 1961 series 62 stolen
> from his work parking lot.  It was a beautiful car.. black, with black and
> white interior.  How do I avoid this situation happening to me!
>
>   Regards,
>
>             Todd

One thing you might consider is a battery kill switch.  It hooks into
the battery cable and has a knob that you turn, which will stop the flow
of current to the starter.  Some of them have a removable knob, so that
if anyone does see you do this, they can't turn the power back on.  I
know there's a company that advertises in Cars & Parts that sells them.
We use them at the car dealership for cars that are going to sit in the
showroom for a while.

Jil
Canada
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Normally
> I would buy a 1-2-3 year old vehicle and save big on the initial depreciation,
> but I had thought about leasing the Regal. I can get a black with grey leather
> interior supercharged Regal for $300 a month for 36 months...
>
> Anyways, enough about Buicks, at least publically.
>
> Craig M. Seman
> Charlotte, NC!

Yes, but always keep this in mind ... my husband helped build it.

A scary thought ... ;-)

Rabbit
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---Glen Houlton  wrote:

> According to the '71 Master Parts Book the part numbers are the same
for
> the lower center bar and both the end bars (I assume this is what
you mean
> by pods).  The upper center bar carries a different number but that
maybe
> just a minor difference in the mounting ears for the grill above or
below
> this bar.

Thanks.  That is exactly what I meant by pods.

Turns out my friend got me a couple of  rear fender skirts from the
same '67.  (I like to call those "slabs", but I'll try to use the
proper terms).

Will the '67 skirts fit my '68??  That would be great because one of
mine is pretty rough.


Mike Harker
'68 deVille 4-door
Toronto, Canada
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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> >Saw a sign on a Mazda 323: "16 Valves"
> >Strange. Can you get away with less?
> >

When cars first started coming out with everything but their owner's
manuals written on the side of them, I got out the lettering kit and did
some work on the back of my 455-powered, 4-barrel carbed 1976 Buick:

16 VALVE, MULTI VENTURI FUEL SYSTEM

I had a few people tell me, in rather awed tones, that they never heard
of an older car having such a thing ...

Jil
Canada
(By the way, a 3-cylinder Pontiac Firefly/Geo Metro/whatever they call
those things in your neck of the woods have 12, I believe ... although I
don't think there are any 4- or 6-cylinders that use less than 4 valves
per cylinder any more, although I could be wrong ...)
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All,
	 Just wanted to introduce myself and provide an update on
some info I saw posted.

First the useful info:
The phone number Cadillac Joe gave for Helm Publications Division
is still correct 800 782 4356. They only carry the Fisher Body
manuals for 1970 and later though, I didn't get definite
availability on the shop/repair manuals.
FYI, FAXON also carries orig and reproduction manuals, their
phone number is 800 458 2734.
I've also contacted Walter Miller by email to check on availability
and saw shop manuals on Caddy Daddy's price list.
http://www.caddydaddy.com/
So far I haven't found anyone offering a shop manual for a 68
though for less than US $69. I saw where Rik suggested that
the cost should be around $35 and Dave Morgan on his web page
said about the same. I'm wondering if anyone knows of a lower
price source (than $69) for a decent reprint. (I know I'm probably
not gathering much sympathy from those of you in Europe who have to
pay shipping and face longer deliveries, my apologies. At the
moment though every extra dollar spent means waiting that much longer
to buy repair parts I need.)

Thanks to Cadillac Joe, Ruben, and Bernie Daily who all contributed
possible sources.


Now the self serving intro and rambling about my caddy dreams:
I have a 1968 Fleetwood Brougham which is in driveable and restorable
condition. It's a "sea green" color, which was absolutely gorgeous
when it was new (judging by the inside of the trunk) but now has
a cheap paint job over it that makes it look dull. I seem to be in
competition with this car to keep it on the road because as I repair
items other items malfunction. Nevertheless, I enjoy the car and since
I brought it home last May my 5 year old and 3 year old sons have
loved it. My long term plan is for it to serve as a little bit
more comfortable and classy family car than our traditional
mini-van. Unfortunaley, the list of items to repair to bring
it up to spouse standards is larger than my current budget. Eventually
though it will carry us all across country from Austin to
California or Michigan to visit relatives.

Best regards,
Dan Lutes
68 Fleetwood
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I will add my $.02 worth in here about security and the older Cadillacs.
The 30's and 40's have an armored cable from the ignition switch that is
a little more difficult to hot wire than later models.  Add this to the
fact that most people don't know where the starter switch is and the fact
that the perpetrator has to find the battery cut off switch and the car
is very obvious; there are few thieves that would risk tampering with it.


  O yea; if one does and doesn't know where the switch to turn off the
model T ignition coil he will get a shock of his life right on his
keester, when he tries to start the car.  What about a key job down the
side of the car you ask?  An other Model T coil hooked to the frame and a
short ground wire dragging the ground will discourage that in a hurry.
Does a good job on dogs whose aim happens to land on metal.

Security --- I have no problems.


On Tue, 24 Mar 1998 08:51:50 -0800 Dave Morgan <d_morgan@...> writes:
>Todd Fitzgerald wrote:
>
>>   Hi guys/gals,
>>
>>                I would be interested in knowing how people have
>> dealt with
>> the security aspect of their cars.
>> Obviously you can't keep your eye on your car 24 hours a day, but
>> you take
>> that risk of it being stolen.  I had a buddy get his 1961 series 62
>> stolen
>> from his work parking lot.  It was a beautiful car.. black, with
>> black and
>> white interior.  How do I avoid this situation happening to me!
>
>After the theft (and subsequent recovery) of my truck from in front of
>my house last year, I became a little more wary about auto security.
>Old Cadillacs are easy to get into and since the steering column does
>not lock, they are easy to hot-wire and drive away.
>
>I installed an alarm system in my '63 and added electric locks at the
>same time.  The alarm and locks operate from the remote and the alarm
>has a starter kill feature, so even if a thief did get in the car, it
>would take him/her a lot longer to bypass the starter kill.  The car
>also has a flashing LED which lets a potential thief know that the car
>is armed (and so is the owner).  Usually that is enough to send a
>crook onto an easier target.  An ounce of prevention is a good idea
>but if someone wants your particular car bad enough, they will take it
>(usually at gunpoint at an stop light).  Most of the car theft in my
>area is simply people who need transportation over to Springfield to
>buy more drugs.
>
>A "Club" type device on the steering wheel is also a fair deterrent.
>I keep one of those on the truck now.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Dave
>
>
>--
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Dave Morgan
>Eugene, Oregon USA
>Dave's Cadillac Page: http://www.efn.org/~d_morgan/cads.html
>Dave's Self Serving Web Page: http://www.efn.org/~d_morgan
>The World's Smallest Motorcycle
>Shop:http://www.efn.org/~d_morgan/wsmcs.html
>
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>
>

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At 12:37 23/03/98 PST, you wrote:
>>Hi CML,
>>The other day I mentioned Tripod now give 5mb free, well now Geocities
>give
>>6mb free!
>>Regards,
>>Allan
>
>But you know one really annoying feature of both sites? It's that da##
>extra browser window that pops up every da** time you go back...
>  You get to test yourself on how fast you can line up on the "X" and
>click it away, but MAN it's annoying!!
>
>Actually it will minimise if you click anywhere in the window. A "premium
member" can pay extra to avoid the popups appearing on the screen.

Regards,
Allan Levinson
Sydney, Australia
Pink 1959 Coupe de Ville
http://members.tripod.com/~cool59
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At 07:44 AM 3/24/98 -0500, you wrote:
>  Hi guys/gals,
>
>               I would be interested in knowing how people have dealt with
>the security aspect of their cars.

>  Regards,
>
>            Todd
>
I installed an Avital Champion alarm system in my 77 Seville 6 1/2 years ago
and the performance has been flawless.  Cost was about $150.  Installed
would have been $300.  I enjoy the convenience of the doors unlocking
automatically and the remote trunk release.



***********************************************
* Scott Yoder                                 *
* Alpha Chi Lambda Chapter President 1997-98  *
* Awarded "Most Distinguished Chapter" 1997   *
* Phi Theta Kappa International Honor Society *
* MiraCosta College                           *
* Oceanside, California                       *
* CSEA Bylaws & Procedures Committee member   *
* Telephone:  760-724-4849                    *
* Email:  calcman@...         *
* 77 Seville                                  *
* Step One:  10-26-92                         *
***********************************************

God feeds even the little birds, but he doesn't throw the food in their
nests. He makes them get off their butt and go get it.

Give a man a fish, and he will eat for a day.
Teach him to fish, and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day.

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