--- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, Jim Alexander
<jamesalexander@...> wrote:
>****

David, I was just wondering why is a pass thru a must have?  I have
never had one and just wondered how you use it.

John

****
> David,
>
> On the newer Bounder Diesels there is some pass thru storage, but not
on
> the slide out.
>
> The storage for the slide out travels out with the main slide, so pass
> through is not possible for those. Oh I guess it would be possible,
> but not likely.
>
> You might want to get the opportunity to check out a newer (2008 /
2010)
> diesel Bounder at a dealer or a show to see the configuration of the
> storage.
>
> Jim Alexander
>
> David McCollum wrote:
> > Were there any Bounder diesels made with the living room slide and
pass-thru storage?
> > I was looking to upgrade from my gas unit to a diesel, but the
pass-thru storage is a must have for us.
> > David McCollum
> > Ardenada Brussels Griffons
> > 1999 Bounder 34V on Chevy Chassis
> >
> >
> >
>

once again thanks for your insight i will check into the numbers on the
headlight.

--- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, Richard Marvin <earthskyandwater@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Kevin: I,m going to give you some home work. Look at the head light
assembly, at the bottom there should be some numbers. The letters and numbers
look some thing like this.
>         HBE         92       HR     SAE        TYC  20-3074
           3V   10HR     RH
>
> The SAE number LIKE  TYC 20-3074 will be the key to the manufacture, Google
or Yahoo this number and it should lead you to the info. you are looking for.
>    There should be someone on the web that can supply what you are looking
for.
> Hope this gets you started. let me know.
>       Dick....
>  
>
> --- On Sun, 11/15/09, KEVIN <kevintanis@...> wrote:
>
> From: KEVIN <kevintanis@...>
> Subject: [bounder_diesel] replacing headlights
> To: bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, November 15, 2009, 10:24 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       hey guys i want to replace the headlights on my 02 Expedition. i know i
can buy them from fleetwood but i find most of the headlights in these
motorhomes are from other vehicles. my expedition and the providence share the
same headlights does anybody know what they came out of? for exanple the
discovery uses ford superduty lights and turn signals but i dont know on mine.
>
>
>
> any help would be appreciated. ..Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hi Kevin: I,m going to give you some home work. Look at the head light assembly,
at the bottom there should be some numbers. The letters and numbers look some
thing like this.
        HBE         92       HR     SAE        TYC  20-3074  
         3V   10HR     RH

The SAE number LIKE  TYC 20-3074 will be the key to the manufacture, Google or
Yahoo this number and it should lead you to the info. you are looking for.
   There should be someone on the web that can supply what you are looking
for.
Hope this gets you started. let me know.
      Dick....
 

--- On Sun, 11/15/09, KEVIN <kevintanis@...> wrote:

From: KEVIN <kevintanis@...>
Subject: [bounder_diesel] replacing headlights
To: bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, November 15, 2009, 10:24 AM







 









       hey guys i want to replace the headlights on my 02 Expedition. i know i
can buy them from fleetwood but i find most of the headlights in these
motorhomes are from other vehicles. my expedition and the providence share the
same headlights does anybody know what they came out of? for exanple the
discovery uses ford superduty lights and turn signals but i dont know on mine.



any help would be appreciated. ..Kevin

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hey guys i want to replace the headlights on my 02 Expedition. i know i can buy
them from fleetwood but i find most of the headlights in these motorhomes are
from other vehicles. my expedition and the providence share the same headlights
does anybody know what they came out of? for exanple the discovery uses ford
superduty lights and turn signals but i dont know on mine.

any help would be appreciated...Kevin

Kelly: They maybe made by Haldex or Meritor. I had to change out the front valve
for the air brakes and it was made by Meritor. FYI the part number on that one
is RKN24003.
  A call to Frightliner Service might be the fastest route, with the last part
of the Vin #
  Dick...

--- On Sat, 11/14/09, mckellyb <mckellyb@...> wrote:

From: mckellyb <mckellyb@...>
Subject: [bounder_diesel] Re: On-board air system problem
To: bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, November 14, 2009, 4:40 PM







 









       It's definitely coming from the purge valve area, so that's likely it!



Thanks for the directions on removal.  Now...to hunt down parts.  I can't
imagine anyone but maybe a Freightliner shop having it.



I see what I'm digging into next weekend.



Thanks,



Kelly



--- In bounder_diesel@ yahoogroups. com, Richard Marvin <earthskyandwater@ ...>
wrote:

>

> Hi Kelly; There are two valves and it sounds like you need to work on the
Purge Valve. This one is accessible from under neath with out removing the
filters. Getting a rebuild kit would be a good idea as the unit is about 10
years old

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I just went from Google Chrome to an independently-tweaked version of it,
because Shockwave crashes Google 99.9% of the time on this admittedly old PC.

SWIron, if anybody is wondering.  The 3.0 release, not the beta.  Hey, I'm a
risk-taker, but only to a certain degree when it comes to my interwebz
access...yo.

Kelly

Yep, that's the area it's in!

Okay, purge valve parts...I'm guessing a Freightliner shoppe?

I can't imagine they're commonly found items.

At least it sounds like it's easy to access!

Thanks,

Kelly

--- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, Richard Marvin <earthskyandwater@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Kelly; There are two valves and it sounds like you need to work on the
Purge Valve. This one is accessible from under neath with out removing the
filters. Getting a rebuild kit would be a good idea as the unit is about 10
years old

Boy what a response!  We will print off all of these suggestions and take it
from there.

   Thank you all for the great suggestions.  Since it is raining, we will have to
wait to try all of the suggestions. Will keep you posted as to what we find.

Loren Hartman

Boy what a response!  We will print off all of these suggestions and take it
from there.

   Thank you all for the great suggestions.  Since it is raining, we will have to
wait to try all of the suggestions. Will keep you posted as to what we find.

Loren Hartman

Hi Kelly; There are two valves and it sounds like you need to work on the Purge
Valve. This one is accessible from under neath with out removing the filters.
Getting a rebuild kit would be a good idea as the unit is about 10 years old
    1 Remove the three hex head screws, they are holding the retainer /
shield. It looks like a triangle.
    2 Remove the large snap ring.

    3 Using pliers,pull out the purge valve assembly.

    4 Clean everything well, a syn. type lub. might work the best. you do not
want anything that will degrade the O rings. Clean everything well, the valve
and the bore.

    5 lubricate the piston bore.
 
    6 reverse steps 3 to 1
   
    7 Tighten to 40 to 55 in lbs.

Now,, I know that you will release all the air pressure, but then if the valve
is not closing that should not be a problem.
   The other valve is the turbo-saver valve and is inside the filter assembly.
A new kit should have new O rings, purge valve, and snap ring.

This is in section 42.11 of my shop manual
   You are working close to the heater/ assembly, but that should not have to
be removed

   Dick   

--- On Sat, 11/14/09, mckellyb <mckellyb@...> wrote:

From: mckellyb <mckellyb@...>
Subject: [bounder_diesel] On-board air system problem
To: bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, November 14, 2009, 11:30 AM







 









       There is a canister behind the left-rear wheel which is the pass-through
area of the air compressor system on the Freightliner chassis.



This canister regulates pressure via a blow-off valve, that PSSTTSSS you hear
when the system is properly pressurized.



When first started, beginning with -0- PSI, there is a valve on the bottom of
the tank which isn't yet closed, and it makes a very fast PST-PST-PST- PST
sound.  It closes shortly after starting the engine, allowing the compressor to
build pressure in the system.



However, mine has just started sticking 'open', so the system can't build
pressure.  I've had this happen one other time, but touching the valve closed it
and all was well.



Ideas?



Oh, and no, I've not ever replaced the dessicant... I know, I know.  I fear this
is related in some degree to being in a much more humid climate than we've been
for the past several years, and this may be the "hey, your dessicant is soaked,
bonehead" noise.



However, we plan in being in Vegas a month from now, and that doesn't leave a
whole bunch of time for fixin' stuff.  For now, in fact, I'm going to have to
pass on headlight replacement.  No matter, we were going to travel at a more
leisurely pace this time around.  No 20-hour trips, this time.  Two overnights,
somewhere... at least on the way there.



Thanks!



Kelly

'99 39Z, 117K, soon to break the 120K mark

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

There is a canister behind the left-rear wheel which is the pass-through area of
the air compressor system on the Freightliner chassis.

This canister regulates pressure via a blow-off valve, that PSSTTSSS you hear
when the system is properly pressurized.

When first started, beginning with -0- PSI, there is a valve on the bottom of
the tank which isn't yet closed, and it makes a very fast PST-PST-PST-PST sound.
It closes shortly after starting the engine, allowing the compressor to build
pressure in the system.

However, mine has just started sticking 'open', so the system can't build
pressure.  I've had this happen one other time, but touching the valve closed it
and all was well.

Ideas?

Oh, and no, I've not ever replaced the dessicant...I know, I know.  I fear this
is related in some degree to being in a much more humid climate than we've been
for the past several years, and this may be the "hey, your dessicant is soaked,
bonehead" noise.

However, we plan in being in Vegas a month from now, and that doesn't leave a
whole bunch of time for fixin' stuff.  For now, in fact, I'm going to have to
pass on headlight replacement.  No matter, we were going to travel at a more
leisurely pace this time around.  No 20-hour trips, this time.  Two overnights,
somewhere...at least on the way there.

Thanks!

Kelly
'99 39Z, 117K, soon to break the 120K mark

--- Ed wrote:
> It may be the water filter itself.  Time for a new one.
> ------------

I travel with a "universal alarm system" that lets me know in no uncertain terms
when a filter (or anything else <g>) needs changing.  I use the system from Jim
Worden http://www.covesystemsinc.com/welcome.html that filters out to 0.2
microns before going through a carbon taste filter, much better that the bottled
water people buy.  A slightly decreasing drop in pressure will occur from day
one -- but I don't see it because of the regulator being after the filters.

Bob H.

It may be the water filter itself.  Time for a new one.
Ed
Sent from my BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: "rheiges" <bob.heiges@...>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 15:20:01
To: <bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [bounder_diesel] Re: Water pressure

--- Loren wrote:
> Where is the incoming water pressure regulator located?
> --------------

An interesting question because the answer will vary -- and people have not
arrived at THEIR solution without thought and reasoning.

Unlike Jim, my regulator is AFTER the dual filter system I use, just before it
connects to the city water inlet of the Bounder.  I figure the regulated
pressure is to protect the plumbing of the Bounder, not the external stuff I can
readily see and replace.  From the faucet to the filters I simply buy a strong
white hose with nylon reinforcing that can handle any pressure that might come
along.  Putting pressure through the filters helps maintain flow through them
even as they become slightly 'clogged'.  It also means that filtered water is
running through the pressure regulator -- so I don't get the clogging there that
Kelly wrote about. With the regulator after the filters, the pressure in the
motorhome is constant, even after a couple of months of filtering.

Bob H.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- Loren wrote:
> Where is the incoming water pressure regulator located?
> --------------

An interesting question because the answer will vary -- and people have not
arrived at THEIR solution without thought and reasoning.

Unlike Jim, my regulator is AFTER the dual filter system I use, just before it
connects to the city water inlet of the Bounder.  I figure the regulated
pressure is to protect the plumbing of the Bounder, not the external stuff I can
readily see and replace.  From the faucet to the filters I simply buy a strong
white hose with nylon reinforcing that can handle any pressure that might come
along.  Putting pressure through the filters helps maintain flow through them
even as they become slightly 'clogged'.  It also means that filtered water is
running through the pressure regulator -- so I don't get the clogging there that
Kelly wrote about. With the regulator after the filters, the pressure in the
motorhome is constant, even after a couple of months of filtering.

Bob H.

Loren and Rita,

The pressure regulator is one that you would be placing in the line on
the faucet connection for the city water before attaching your hose or
filter.   If you are not doing that, there is no pressure regulator.

The problem with the inexpensive regulators that you buy from Camping
World, a campground store or Walmart is that they can easily get plugged
up and kill your pressure and it can happen from one connection to the
next.

While on a trip, I went from one campground to the next and pressure was
drastically reduced at the next campground.   I figured out it was the
pressure regulator I was putting in line.     I bought another one from
the store at that campground and everything was fine.

I have since switched to a more expensive regulator and have not had
that happen again.

Jim Alexander

hrtmnrt wrote:
>   Thanks to all for your suggestions.  Looks like it's time for us to go to
work.  We will keep you posted.
>
>   One question.  Where is the incoming water pressure regulator located?
>
>   Thanks again.
>
> Loren and Rita Hartman
> 2007 38V
>
>

Thanks to all for your suggestions.  Looks like it's time for us to go to
work.  We will keep you posted.

   One question.  Where is the incoming water pressure regulator located?

   Thanks again.

Loren and Rita Hartman
2007 38V

Loren:

You might also make sure that, if you have a fill valve for filling your tank
from city water, the valve is fully closed.  You could be losing pressure into
the water tank (which, under some conditions, could blow up your water tank!).

Carl D.




--- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, "hrtmnrt" <rita_har@...> wrote:
>
>   Hi All
>
>   We have watched and learned for years but now have our own problem.  We have
poor water pressure.  Our outside faucet (from the park) has good pressure, but
inside the coach just a trickle.  Any ideas where to start looking?
>
> Loren and Rita Hartman
> 2007 38V
> 2003 Saturn Wagon toad
>

Hi Loren; I Would check to see if the screen filters in the water hoses, or at
where the City Water input line feed is clogged, ( the ones that trap out things
like sand)
   Check the filters at the faucets to see if they are clogged. They are
aerators and have some fine screen in them. 
   Then there is the anti-siphon valve is blocking the line at the city water
connection on the RV. see the link below to see what one looks like. behind it
and out of sight is a flapper valve that can cause problems.
   This link was sent to me by Fred C.

http://www.tweetys.com/citywaterflangepolarwhite.aspx
  
 Hope this helps,,

  Dick..



--- On Fri, 11/13/09, hrtmnrt <rita_har@...> wrote:

From: hrtmnrt <rita_har@...>
Subject: [bounder_diesel] Water pressure
To: bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, November 13, 2009, 3:39 PM







 









         Hi All



We have watched and learned for years but now have our own problem.  We have
poor water pressure.  Our outside faucet (from the park) has good pressure, but
inside the coach just a trickle.  Any ideas where to start looking?



Loren and Rita Hartman

2007 38V

2003 Saturn Wagon toad

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Check the anit-siphon plastic diaphragm thing at the coach's shore water
connection, too.

Over time, they wear/crack, and a sideways one really hoses things up.

Get it...hoses....

Hey, it's Friday.

Also, if you have a pressure "regulator" which is one of those $7 screw-on
types, take it out of the equation and see if that's the problem.

Reminds me, before we go to Vegas, I need to get another pressure, but not
volume, regulator from Lowe's, but those suckers are like $50, and I can just
put water in the on-board tank every other day.

Vegas water pressure is close to 100 PSI out of the tap.  Blows coach pipes
apart a couple times per year.

Kelly

>
> > Subject: [bounder_diesel] Water pressure
> >
> > Hi All
> >
> > We have watched and learned for years but now have our own problem.  We have
> > poor water pressure.  Our outside faucet (from the park) has good pressure,
> > but inside the coach just a trickle.  Any ideas where to start looking?
> >
> > Loren and Rita Hartman
> > 2007 38V
> > 2003 Saturn Wagon toad
> >
> >
> >

Loren and Rita

As a start... check the hose screens.  I have also had problems with the
anti siphon devices at the park's tap being a problem with the hose screen.
Had to take the screen out of the hose.  Also check the screen at the coach.

--
Dale
00 36s  07 Wrangler 4dr Ragtop

> From: hrtmnrt <rita_har@...>
> Reply-To: bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 20:39:12 +0000
> To: bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bounder_diesel] Water pressure
>
> Hi All
>
> We have watched and learned for years but now have our own problem.  We have
> poor water pressure.  Our outside faucet (from the park) has good pressure,
> but inside the coach just a trickle.  Any ideas where to start looking?
>
> Loren and Rita Hartman
> 2007 38V
> 2003 Saturn Wagon toad
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> ------------- Bounder Diesel Forum -----------------
>
> Note: To change delivery method, send email to:
>
> DIGEST, where many posts are combined into one email:
>         bounder_diesel-digest@yahoogroups.com
>
> NO EMAIL,(Web Only) for when you are on the road:
>         bounder_diesel-nomail@yahoogroups.com Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Hi All

   We have watched and learned for years but now have our own problem.  We have
poor water pressure.  Our outside faucet (from the park) has good pressure, but
inside the coach just a trickle.  Any ideas where to start looking?

Loren and Rita Hartman
2007 38V
2003 Saturn Wagon toad

David,

On the newer Bounder Diesels there is some pass thru storage, but not on
the slide out.

The storage for the slide out travels out with the main slide, so pass
through is not possible for those.   Oh I guess it would be possible,
but  not likely.

You might want to get the opportunity to check out a newer (2008 / 2010)
diesel Bounder at a dealer or a show to see the configuration of the
storage.

Jim Alexander

David McCollum wrote:
> Were there any Bounder diesels made with the living room slide and pass-thru
storage?
>  I was looking to upgrade from my gas unit to a diesel, but the pass-thru
storage is a must have for us.
>  David McCollum
> Ardenada Brussels Griffons
> 1999 Bounder 34V on Chevy Chassis
>
>
>

I just dropped off my Bounder with Williams RV in Chesapeake, VA. He said that
recaulking my entire roof would cost around $250. That seems reasonable. I have
a known leak that if left alone would surely cost me a lot in damages so I felt
better leaving the repair to someone with experience. Also he has a garage to do
the work in and the weather conditions here might not allow me to get it done.
We are on our second day of a November Noreaster. I guess it's as good of time
as any to get a leak fixed. I will update as to how it went.
Russell
1994 36J

--- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, jlharr Harris <jlharr@...> wrote:
>
>
> No I do not remove the old caulk but if you have a leak, you may want to and
replace it with a more modern product. About once a year inspection on our
rubber roof has so far kept up dry.
>
>
>
> To: bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com
> From: russellmbelue@...
> Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 23:51:46 +0000
> Subject: [bounder_diesel] Re: Taking Bounder to RV service person for
maintenance
>
>
>
>
>
> Do you remove the old caulk first. I believe the caulking to be the source of
a leak in our motorhomes bathroom.
> Thank you,
> Russell Belue
> 1994 36J
>
> --- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, jlharr Harris <jlharr@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Most of us do that ourselves. Camping World sells products for different
type of roofs and you just inspect it and caulk any suspicious spots. Look at
all the seams and the caulk around the roof attachements such as vents and pipes
and add it there if you see any cracks or spots that don't appear complete
> >
> > Jerry
> >
> > 2005 Bounder 38N
> >
> >
> >
> > To: bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com
> > From: russellmbelue@
> > Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 23:20:59 +0000
> > Subject: [bounder_diesel] Taking Bounder to RV service person for
maintenance
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Has anyone ever taken their RV to a service person to get the caulk/sealant
on the roof replaced? How much did it or should it cost? What is the proper
procedure should I decide to do it myself?
> > Thank you,
> > Russell Belue
> > 1994 Bounder 36 J
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Were there any Bounder diesels made with the living room slide and pass-thru
storage?
 I was looking to upgrade from my gas unit to a diesel, but the
pass-thru storage is a must have for us.
 David McCollum
Ardenada Brussels Griffons
1999 Bounder 34V on Chevy Chassis




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bob H.,
If you or Judy are on Facebook, add me as a friend(Robert Lindsey) and you will
be able to see the lot in Quartzsite and our lot in Cascade.
Bob L.

Bob
Like I told Kelly, it is 1st come 1st served on the spare site. The rates for
FHU with 50A are very low at "Camp Lindsey". There are 2 units setting here now
visiting us. I went out yesterday and got the parts to add a 3rd 50A hookup and
there is water for the 3rd site, but no sewer. If you have a macerator pump,
then you would have sewer also. LOL. Email me and I'll give you our phone
number, if you have lost it. would be nice to see you and Judy again. There is
all the trail riding you want, right from the lot here. Kelly, same goes for
you, if you want our phone number.
Bob & Betsy

--- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, "rheiges" <bob.heiges@...> wrote:
>
> Bob, Judy and I will be going through Qsite in December heading west, then in
March heading back east.  Judy is usually good for about 3 days at a stretch in
the BLM area E. of town -- but this year we may stay longer to try out the new
Jeep toad.
>
> We are in Ocala right now, waiting for TS Ida to go up I-75 to Atlanta before
we do.  I fought more than enough gusty winds yesterday coming up from Ft
Lauderdale.
>
> Bob H.
> http://map.datastormusers.com/user1.cfm?user=3681
>
> --- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, "b.lindsey" <B.Lindsey@> wrote:
> >
> > Kelly,
> > Most of the vendors will be here by the end of the year, so it may be
worthwhile to stop and look for something specific like you are. You can either
dry camp for free on both the E and W side of town, or if our spare site is open
then, you can have FHU's. We tell people it is 1st come 1st served for our spare
site here, LOL. Did you ever sell your lot in LV?
> > Bob L.
> >
> > --- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, "mckellyb" <mckellyb@> wrote:
> > >
> > > "If by chance you can get here around the middle of Jan,"
> > >
> > > Yeah...there's this whole work thing which gets in the way.  I consider
myself quite lucky, though I'm paying for it, monetarily, to get X-Mas through
New Years, off.
> > >
> > > I should have done Quartzite while we were in Vegas all winter, but I
never really thought about it.  Well, I thought about it one year, but never was
motivated enough.  Young and foolish....
> > >
> > > Kelly
> > >
> >
>

I have had an ASUS netbook for a few months, now.  I was really doubtful, being
the 'big screen' queen!  But, I love it.  We have 2 almost new desktops with big
screens.  But, the netbook, I love it.  I was doubtful about not having a CD/DVD
drive, but I am surprised at how much I don't need it.  I copy all my programs
to a 'thumb' drive, and install from there.  I don't install anything on the
little guy that I don't need to use, so it is really fast.  (I used to install
everything I thought I'd use-what a waste.)  It has super long battery life,
Windows XP, really portable (mostly because of the battery life).  I really
don't use the desktops, except to update hubby's favorites.  I would like to
have another one of the little guys, then hubby would know how great they are-he
can't tell because I never let him use 'my' computer.

I use Photoshop, Street Atlas, and Google Earth mostly, for your
information-and, the netbook runs all very fast.

Boni

Bob, Judy and I will be going through Qsite in December heading west, then in
March heading back east.  Judy is usually good for about 3 days at a stretch in
the BLM area E. of town -- but this year we may stay longer to try out the new
Jeep toad.

We are in Ocala right now, waiting for TS Ida to go up I-75 to Atlanta before we
do.  I fought more than enough gusty winds yesterday coming up from Ft
Lauderdale.

Bob H.
http://map.datastormusers.com/user1.cfm?user=3681

--- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, "b.lindsey" <B.Lindsey@...> wrote:
>
> Kelly,
> Most of the vendors will be here by the end of the year, so it may be
worthwhile to stop and look for something specific like you are. You can either
dry camp for free on both the E and W side of town, or if our spare site is open
then, you can have FHU's. We tell people it is 1st come 1st served for our spare
site here, LOL. Did you ever sell your lot in LV?
> Bob L.
>
> --- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, "mckellyb" <mckellyb@> wrote:
> >
> > "If by chance you can get here around the middle of Jan,"
> >
> > Yeah...there's this whole work thing which gets in the way.  I consider
myself quite lucky, though I'm paying for it, monetarily, to get X-Mas through
New Years, off.
> >
> > I should have done Quartzite while we were in Vegas all winter, but I never
really thought about it.  Well, I thought about it one year, but never was
motivated enough.  Young and foolish....
> >
> > Kelly
> >
>

I believe you when you say it's a mess, LOL. We always stop there for a week or
so in the spring, on our way back to Idaho and saw it this past sprig in the
melt down stage. Will be there again in April 2010, so will see if it has
completely melted by then.
Bob L.

--- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, "mckellyb" <mckellyb@...> wrote:
>
> -- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, "b.lindsey" <B.Lindsey@> wrote:
> >
> > Kelly,
>  We tell people it is 1st come 1st served for our spare site here, LOL. Did
you ever sell your lot in LV?
> > Bob L.
> >
>
> That's mighty gracious!  Thanks!  I'll have to see what's up as the time draws
closer.  As it is, all I've thought about is what needs to be packed up and left
here, in the cars.  We'll be toadless, which isn't the end of the world.  We're
planning on renting a car in Vegas, but otherwise, we'll be on bicycle or foot.
>
> We haven't sold the Vegas site, yet, but unlike some there, it was purchased
with disposable income, and we'll wait to sell it to someone who isn't pinching
their pennies.
>
> That town is a mess, honestly.
>
> Kelly
>

No I do not remove the old caulk but if you have a leak, you may want to and
replace it with a more modern product. About once a year inspection on our
rubber roof has so far kept up dry.



To: bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com
From: russellmbelue@...
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 23:51:46 +0000
Subject: [bounder_diesel] Re: Taking Bounder to RV service person for
maintenance





Do you remove the old caulk first. I believe the caulking to be the source of a
leak in our motorhomes bathroom.
Thank you,
Russell Belue
1994 36J

--- In bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com, jlharr Harris <jlharr@...> wrote:
>
>
> Most of us do that ourselves. Camping World sells products for different type
of roofs and you just inspect it and caulk any suspicious spots. Look at all the
seams and the caulk around the roof attachements such as vents and pipes and add
it there if you see any cracks or spots that don't appear complete
>
> Jerry
>
> 2005 Bounder 38N
>
>
>
> To: bounder_diesel@yahoogroups.com
> From: russellmbelue@...
> Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 23:20:59 +0000
> Subject: [bounder_diesel] Taking Bounder to RV service person for maintenance
>
>
>
>
>
> Has anyone ever taken their RV to a service person to get the caulk/sealant on
the roof replaced? How much did it or should it cost? What is the proper
procedure should I decide to do it myself?
> Thank you,
> Russell Belue
> 1994 Bounder 36 J
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]