I mean the letters that spell out AVION that is over both the front
and back windows of the trailer

Are you talking about the travelcader decals? I have a few that are in brand new
shape to sell.

Terry Bone
1957 Avion R26 #904


--- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, "ventport49" <brusnak@...>
wrote:
>
> I have a 1964 T21 and need the Avion logos that go above the front and back
windows.  Are they available and if so where do I get them?  Thanks Brian
>

Ron,

Be careful when working under the trailer.  If there has been a small
leak for some time then the plywood or mounts under a tank could be
rotten and the tank could fall on you if you are under it.

Cheers,

      Rol

1978 Avion 30R
1987 Avion 34X
1985 GMC Suburban 3/4 2WD 454 Automatic
Gavilan, New Mexico

Mark,

I have a set of photos in our photo pages with captions on how I
replaced the stack vent on my Avion. Look under "vent repair."
Replacement vent caps are available widely on the internet and at RV
places like Camping World.

Cheers,

    Rol

I found one on eBay and several others through bing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BARGMAN-L-66-LOW-PROFILE-LOCK-W-KEYS-NEW-DISCONTI\
NUED_W0QQitemZ390115263955QQihZ026QQcategoryZ50069QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.\
m444QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DCRX%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DSI%252BUA%252BLM%252BLA%26otn\
%3D5%26ps%3D63

Bloody expensive though.

Chris
1968 T-28

--- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Pfiffner"
<madrone1@...> wrote:
>
> I just replaced the Bargman L-66 door lock on my '61 Tourist. The original
lock with 45 years of wear is sloppy but still works. If anyone would like to
have the old one before I throw it away it can be had for shipping cost.
>
> Steve
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hello Ron,
I had a leak in my gray tank. (Note in my case that I have Alko Axles) Backed
the trailer up on long stacked 2 X 8 boards (for working room underneath).
Allowed the rear axle to back off the end of the boards. Removed the wheels off
of the third axle and then loosened the 4 bolts that hold the axle to the frame.
Removed the front bolts on the axle that allowed it to swing back and free.
Removed the belly pan and had access to the gray water tank. Had to cut the
pipes that fed into the tank and remove the tank. My leak was where the hard
line from the galley into the top of the tank with a 90 deg. fitting. Replaced
the fitting and some of the pipe and used rubber slip plumbing couplings to tie
back into the drain pipes.
My best guess that my problem was caused by road vibration over time with those
hard fittings. I think that by using the rubber couplings that will allow enough
flex that it will keep stress off of those tank fittings.

Alex
'90 R2500 Suburban 7.4L
'90 Avion 34V
Cummins-Onan P4300ie
Reese Dual Cam HD
Prodigy
--- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, "texasxpsd" <norton.ron@...>
wrote:
>
> Anyone in the Houston area willing to give me some info or someone who could
work on this problem????
>
> --- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, "texasxpsd" <norton.ron@>
wrote:
> >
> > Our new to us is leaking grey water.  I looked under the street side twin
bed and there is a 2" black pipe coming from the front down the side of the
fresh water tank.  You can only see about 10" of the black pipe, but when there
is water in the grey tank, water is running on the under side of the pipe and
drips into floor then runs out of trailer around the fresh water tank drain.
> >
> > It appears that the grey water tank is forward of fresh water tank over the
axles.  How is the best way to view the tank and drain pipe to determine where
the leak is?
> >
> > Ron
> > 1983 - 34V
> >
>

_Click  here: 1964 avaon camper_
(http://huntington.en.craigslist.org/rvs/1460704644.html)  $1500

This one almost got by me due to the spelling error

Camilla
H-24
KY









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have a 1964 T21 and need the Avion logos that go above the front and back
windows.  Are they available and if so where do I get them?  Thanks Brian

Hi Ron.



The leak could be coming from anywhere.  It could be a leaking pipe joint or a
crack in the tank or anything in between.  You may find the leak may not even
be associated with the gray water tank.



In my opinion, the best way to go to identify where the leak is located is to
remove the belly pan under the tank.  Then give the tank and associated
plumbing a good visual inspection.  My bet is you will be able to
determine what is causing the leak fairly quickly. 



If you find the tank is cracked there are repair kits available for various
types of plastic.  Search the archives for information about plastic tank
repair.



If you find the piping is leaking,  you should find everything you need to
repair the leak at your local big box or hardware store.



Bill 1987 Avion 30P

Ocala, Florida 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Anyone in the Houston area willing to give me some info or someone who could
work on this problem????

--- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, "texasxpsd" <norton.ron@...>
wrote:
>
> Our new to us is leaking grey water.  I looked under the street side twin bed
and there is a 2" black pipe coming from the front down the side of the fresh
water tank.  You can only see about 10" of the black pipe, but when there is
water in the grey tank, water is running on the under side of the pipe and drips
into floor then runs out of trailer around the fresh water tank drain.
>
> It appears that the grey water tank is forward of fresh water tank over the
axles.  How is the best way to view the tank and drain pipe to determine where
the leak is?
>
> Ron
> 1983 - 34V
>

It is a 26 ft LeGrand! [a trim level available in 25ft, 28ft or 31ft that year]

http://my.execpc.com/~drg/avionrem.html#Models

Steve
'61 Tourist 20


On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 7:01 PM, Mark <mobtinario@...> wrote:
> Hi all,
> PS  Anyone have an idea as to what model a 1977 rear bath LeGrand 26' is?
 Thanks.  MRO

Hi all,

Well, I started work on repairing the PO diasease on my new-to-me trailer.  I am
thinking it is going to be require a lot of intensive care to bring it back to
what it was originally.

Just to make it into a tin tent is going to take a lot of work.

It is hard to know where to start except one does have to make sure there are no
gaping holes in the roof to allow liquid sunshine into the interior.

To that end I have several holes to fix.

The front air vent has been replaced by a Max Air(?) white plastic dome type of
vent.  I don't know how they are supposed to be mounted normally but mine has
been stuck on the top of the vent curb with silicone.

The rear vent got hit by a tree branch that came off in a storm recently.  So
that vent lid is toast.

The round vent in the bathroom has no lid of any kind. To keep the weather out a
round plastic bumper sticker had been stuck on the ceiling.

The two vent stacks have no tops.

Probably the worst hole is where the stock reefer vent used to be.  The reefer
was taken out and the roof vent was removed.  The vent was replaced by spray
foam on the inside and some sort of tar like roof seal on the roof.  All of
which is now weathered and not keeping the weather out very well.

Of course the side vent for the reefer is still there and to in order to keep
the weather out a piece of 1" thick foam is standing up in front of the vent to
block the weather out.

While it would be nice to turn on the furnace to warm the interior up once the
worst holes in the roof are all sealed up I can't.  I assume the stock location
for the furnace is somewhere just to the rear of where the reefer was and just
about over the fender well.  All that is in that space now is empty space with a
big hole in the side of the trailer.  That hole is covered (not very well I
might add) by a piece of lexan.

Fortunately I have a shop with a space high enough to get the trailer out of the
weather so nothing is getting wet right now.

I now just need to find the time to get things closed up fairly quickly because
my wife expects to be able to sleep in it Thanksgiving weekend.

Short term I am going to get a piece of sheet aluminum and put it over the hole
where the reefer vent was.

For the vents without lids I am going to get some lexan for the outside and
crossbar for the inside with a long bolt or all-thread to hold the lexan down. 
Put some gummy putty around the curb and that should be good until I can get
some proper replacements.

The vent stacks will have to wait until later so some duct tape will have to do
(I don't plan on using any of the plumbing right away).

The holes in the side will require some spray foam to fill up the space where
the insulation should be.  The piece of lexan on the side should be able to go
back but it will need better fasteners and better gummy putty to seal things up.
I am thinking putty tape will be about as good as anything.

Or course, in order to not get a ticket, I will need to go around and get the
lights working properly.  I am thinking most need their grounds cleaned up or
new bulbs.  The one that will be a challenge is the left turn signal.  The
taillight works but the turn/stop doesn't.  Short term I am going to run a new
wire directly from the trailer plug in along the outside of the body back to the
taillight.

So much of the wiring has been butchered up I have no idea as to what has been
messed up and where it may be messed up.

So, if anyone wants to know what I am doing while I am resting, my response is
taking care of my 15-month daughter.

I suppose the bottom line is if it were easy everyone would want to do it.

Mark O.
Winlock, WA
1965 IHC D1200 Travelall 4X4 SV304 4-speed 4.09 gears
1977 Avion LeGrand 26'

PS  Anyone have an idea as to what model a 1977 rear bath LeGrand 26' is? 
Thanks.  MRO

Our new to us is leaking grey water.  I looked under the street side twin bed
and there is a 2" black pipe coming from the front down the side of the fresh
water tank.  You can only see about 10" of the black pipe, but when there is
water in the grey tank, water is running on the under side of the pipe and drips
into floor then runs out of trailer around the fresh water tank drain.

It appears that the grey water tank is forward of fresh water tank over the
axles.  How is the best way to view the tank and drain pipe to determine where
the leak is?

Ron
1983 - 34V

I don't think Airstream and Avion used the same model Bargman.

Steve


On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 2:55 PM, brokawblake <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> Thanks Terry.
>
> --- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, Terry Tyler
<tylerbears@...> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Guy,
>>
>> Suggest you give call to Oasis RV (1-800-658-5863) in Tucson, AZ
>> (http://www.oasisrv.com/). They restore vintage Airstreams. Many
>> 1960s Airstreams came standard with Bargman locks.

Thanks Terry.

--- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, Terry Tyler <tylerbears@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Guy,
>
> Suggest you give call to Oasis RV (1-800-658-5863) in Tucson, AZ
> (http://www.oasisrv.com/). They restore vintage Airstreams. Many
> 1960s Airstreams came standard with Bargman locks.
>
> I have driven up to the front gate at Oasis with my Airstream, walked
> in with the broken Bargman in hand, watched while the man behind the
> service desk pulled out a tray of parts and Bingo, he had the exact
> part that was broken in my lock. I then re-assembled my lock, slipped
> it into my Airstream's door, tightened it up - and we were good to go.
>
> As an aside, one Friday when I limped into a tire dealer in Ohio on
> three wheels (one wheel had come loose and rolled by me - my fault
> for not checking it after I had replaced the rubber on that wheel), I
> called Oasis at 5 pm for "hub studs." The hub studs on that wheel
> were buggered past salvage from the wheel slopping around before it
> went rolling.
>
> Oasis knew exactly which hub studs I needed, they had them in stock,
> they took the hub studs to FedEx who shipped them "next day" and I
> received them 10 am Saturday morning (17 hours later). Not too shabby.
>
> If I'm in a bind on a weekday and really, really need parts after 5
> pm EST, I'll call Oasis and gladly eat the shipping bill.
>
> Maybe Oasis can help you,
>
> Terry
> 1989 32' Airstream
> 1967 22' Airstream
> 1963 22' Airstream
> East Greenbush, NY
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Excuse me? If I remember someone took me up on the offer back then and
I mailed it to them.

Steve


On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 2:50 PM, brokawblake <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> I betcha $50 that lock ends up on ebay.

I betcha $50 that lock ends up on ebay.



--- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, brokawblake <no_reply@...>
wrote:
>
> THIS SUCKS!
> I'm the one who asked for help in the first place. Know everybody's glomming
on to a part that I needed in the first place.
> Pirates.
>
>
>
> --- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, brokawblake <no_reply@>
wrote:
> >
> > Can anybody help a fella out with a Bargman l-66 lock?
> > All I really need is the outside handle but will buy the whole lock at a
reasonable price.
> > I have tried everywhere.
> > If not, does anybody have any clever ideas as to what I should do?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Blake 1963 avion h-24
> > 2003 Toyota Tundra
> >
>

THIS SUCKS!
I'm the one who asked for help in the first place. Know everybody's glomming on
to a part that I needed in the first place.
Pirates.



--- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, brokawblake <no_reply@...>
wrote:
>
> Can anybody help a fella out with a Bargman l-66 lock?
> All I really need is the outside handle but will buy the whole lock at a
reasonable price.
> I have tried everywhere.
> If not, does anybody have any clever ideas as to what I should do?
>
> Thanks,
> Blake 1963 avion h-24
> 2003 Toyota Tundra
>

That post if you notice is years old now, I no longer have the lock, sorry.

Steve
'61 Tourist 20



On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 2:40 PM, brokawblake <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> Please don't throw it away. I'l gladly pay for shipping.
> Just let me know what you want me to do.
>
> --- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Pfiffner"
<madrone1@...> wrote:
>>
>> I just replaced the Bargman L-66 door lock on my '61 Tourist. The original
lock with 45 years of wear is sloppy but still works. If anyone would like to
have the old one before I throw it away it can be had for shipping cost.
>>
>> Steve

Please don't throw it away. I'l gladly pay for shipping.
Just let me know what you want me to do.

--- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Pfiffner"
<madrone1@...> wrote:
>
> I just replaced the Bargman L-66 door lock on my '61 Tourist. The original
lock with 45 years of wear is sloppy but still works. If anyone would like to
have the old one before I throw it away it can be had for shipping cost.
>
> Steve
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Bill and Chris,

As far as I know the addition of metric designations began in '79. If someone
knows of metric designations on trailers older than that, please pass the info
along to the group.

Gene
1979 28 J
Birmingham, AL

This is where I got mine.

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Bargman_L_66_p/vts-170.htm

--- In avioncampingandrestoration@yahoogroups.com, brokawblake <no_reply@...>
wrote:
>
> Can anybody help a fella out with a Bargman l-66 lock?

Blake,

If you have all the pieces of the handle it is likely a good welder
could repair it.  Try at an aviation repair facility - welding and
repairing aluminum castings is very common in that industry.


      Rol

1978 Avion 30R
1987 Avion 34X
1985 GMC Suburban 3/4 2WD 454 Automatic
Gavilan, New Mexico

Mark,

Well, you certainly do have a lot of questions!  I hope you have fun
fixing up your "new" Avion.


Regardless of whether your brake light is triggered by a pressure switch
or pedal switch the way to get proper braking is by using a proper brake
controller, such as the Prodigy.  A good one will sense the deceleration
of the tow vehicle and apply the proper braking to the trailer.

It will also have a hand control permitting you to apply brakes to the
trailer independently.  This can be helpful if you get into a swerving
situation to straighten out the rig, or want to have the trailer hold
you back going down a hill.

If you can add a sensor to the braking system that provides brake
pressure information to the controller that might be helpful too, but
that is not common, apparently.


Some electrical diagrams are available in the model year manuals
available possibly on this site's file library, but more likely on the
site www.silveravion.com and on Dr. G's site available from a link on
the front page of the silver avion site.

That will also tell you where to look for the furnace and other system
components.


Cheers,

      Rol

1978 Avion 30R
1987 Avion 34X
1985 GMC Suburban 3/4 2WD 454 Automatic
Gavilan, New Mexico

Can anybody help a fella out with a Bargman l-66 lock?
All I really need is the outside handle but will buy the whole lock at a
reasonable price.
I have tried everywhere.
If not, does anybody have any clever ideas as to what I should do?

Thanks,
Blake 1963 avion h-24
2003 Toyota Tundra

Hi Chris.



7.9 meters is equivalent to 25.9186 feet or nominally 26 feet.



The Meter is a unit of length used in the Metric system.  One meter equals
39.37 inches.  The metric system is not necessarily French however, it is used
throughout most of world. 



My 1987 Avion 30P came from the factory with a decal next to the door that
reads, 9.1 Metres.  So, indeed Avion did use metric dimensions to advertise the
length of their trailers.



Bill 1987 Avion 30P (9.144) Meters 

Ocala, Florida


 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello,



Well, I went and picked up my new-to-me Avion over the weekend.  Five miles
short of 500 miles for the round trip.  So I had a good 250 miles for the first
time towing the Avion.



Based on that trip I have a some observations about towing an Avion.



First, it is as if the trailer isn't even back there.  My Travelall barely
noticed the added weight.



Second, the PO took everything out from the front wall to the bathroom wall. 
When I say everything, I mean everything back to the side walls.  The PO
replaced what was taken out by some cut down kitchen cabinets for the sink and
stove and mounted it over the curb side fender well, made a bench to allow for a
single twin bed over the street side fender well, made a closet in front of the
twin bed, and put in a futon frame for a double bed in front.  In other words,
there is virtually no weight forward of the axles.  As a consequence the trailer
does try to wag the dog more than it should.



Third, the PO installed near new take off car tires--great condition with lots
of tread but not much in the way of side wall strength.  I am sure they
contributed to the "wag the dog" problems I was having.



Fourth, since I have a pressure activated brake light switch the electric brakes
are going to be a little hard to adjust to brake correctly.  Unless I install a
modern style brake light switch that is activated off of the brake pedal itself
I am thinking that whatever else I do the trailer brakes are never going to come
on before the Travelall brakes.



Of course now that I have the trailer home I am going to be spending time and
$$$ trying to fix the PO diasease.  The first thing I need to fix is one of the
roof vents.  It is broken and missing a big piece.  Having a gaping hole in the
roof might be okay in AZ but here in the wet NW it tends to let in a lot of
liquid sunshine.



The second thing is to figure out the electrics.  On the front wall and on the
street side wall there are places where wires have been cut off flush with the
walls.  I am thinking most are 12-volt lines but I don't want my toddler to find
out which ones are hot and which ones that aren't.  Knowing what was what and
where sure would be helpful to give me an idea at what I am looking.



The third thing is to figure out the plumbing.  The pressure pump is
disconnected from both the electric and plumbing lines.  As to what is there and
what works I have no idea at this time.  And with the kitchen moved from street
side to curb side I have no idea as to what I might be finding.



The fourth thing is to figure out is the gas system.  So far, all I have found
that uses gas is the stove.  The reefer is an all electric apartment model and
it is currently just sitting on the floor.  No idea if there is a furnace still
in the trailer since I haven't noticed a thermostat.



In the final analysis the outside of the trailer is in much better condition
than what I expected.  It even came with a full set of OEM hubcaps.  The
interior is not as good as what I had hoped but outside of the obvious hole in
the roof it doesn't appear as if it has ever been wet inside, it smells nice,
and the floor is solid throughout.



Did I get a good deal on a used trailer?



I think so and more importantly my wife thinks so as well.



Mark O.

Winlock, WA

1965 IHC D1200 Travelall 4X4 SV304 4-speed 4.09 gears

1977 Avion LeGrande 26'

I haven't done it myself. I'm told it is fairly easy with an electric heat gun /
paint stripper. I have one. Could give it a try if/when the rain stops.

7.9 meters is what in English? Avions were never made in French measures. The
length is usually in the model number.

Chris Currie
#13 Chemainus Gardens RV Park, Chemainus

1968 Avion T-28
1987 Hyundai Pony
1992 Ford F-250

_1968 21'  AVION CAMPER TRAILER_
(http://westernmass.en.craigslist.org/rvs/1456512544.html)   cheap!

Camilla
62 H-24
KY


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

http://www.webspawner.com/users/vintageavions/

I have posted a statement concerning a former graduate student of
mine, Ernest Zah, on my Bob's Link (click the link at the bottom of my
web-page entitled "Bob's View")  You can access my web-page by
clicking the above URL.

This statement is the second topic on Bob's View.  Just thought you
might be interested.

   Robert (Bob) Muncy.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]