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----- Original Message -----

From: musicwhims

To: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 6:32 AM

Subject: [Xebra_EV] INVITE TO DISCUSS 37 MILE DISTANCE ZAP VIDEO AND IN UNCENSORED FORUM !

 

INVITING YOU TO DISCUSS THE NEW CIRCUIT THAT GIVES MORE MILES AND CHALLENGING ANY "QUALIFIED" WITNESSES TO COME SEE THE DEMO IN PERSON (east of Orlando FLarea).  

Please don't respond in this forum but instead goto the other forum listed below.

 

VIDEO YouTube - ELECTRIC ZAP CAR SETS NEW DISTANCE RECORDS 37 miles between recharges: Video0189.3GP   or use :    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNlvgZfqF3E

 

Since we were censored for being it being supposedly impossible to achieve this amazing distance and increased speed,  a temporary location has been created to discuss this and other performance enhancing techniques.  You WON"T be censored unless you use derogatory language against another user (or the inventor).  Feel free to DIS someone's idea's but don't DIS the person personally.  thanks.

 

UNCENSOREDZAPXEBRA : UNCENSORED ZAP XEBRA DISCUSSION GROUP http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/UNCENSOREDZAPXEBRA/

  Just to make sure the Official Claim is:  "Get approx double distance, laps, or speed, or time out of batteries in which the pack is the same or less volume and weight using same as stock technology/chemisty (meaning if you are using lead acid as the stock then we of course would also use lead acid to get the higher miles and/or higher speeds).  IE if you go on long journey and can only carry x amount of weight in batteries this will be the one for you.  For example in the toy trains using alkaine batteries we get double the laps for same battery load (weight and volume) or you can go faster, or a combination of more speed and more distance. 

 

 

www.InventPeace.com and clik on the battery circuit link

 

 

 

IN GOOD WE TRUST !

Thanks for the info


--- In Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com, "Al Lehmann" <a.lehmann@...> wrote:
>
> This link might give you more info about the company....
>
> http://www.gfulu.com/en/6.htm
>

thanks for the info.


--- In Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com, "Al Lehmann" <a.lehmann@...> wrote:
>
> This link might give you more info about the company....
>
> http://www.gfulu.com/en/6.htm
>

yep
--
Sean Rarey
GPEV
www.gpev.us

> Thanks, Sean, and, Metalana, nope, mine is early 2008 and fiberglass.
> Sean, I assume that you mean the LED Side Markers (Item #: ledv168), yes?
>
> Bye for now!
> Bruce
>
>

Thanks, Sean, and, Metalana, nope, mine is early 2008 and fiberglass.
Sean, I assume that you mean the LED Side Markers (Item #: ledv168), yes?

Bye for now!
Bruce

Have you noticed if there seems to be a change to the stability of the vehicle?
I was thinking the heavy lead acid pack being close to the rear axle might help
keep the zap from tipping over, and the lighter lithium pack could make
cornering a little more challenging...of course I'd still do the conversion
anyway :-)

Does anyone have a link or info on the Chinese gas vehicles that the Zap is made
from?

We use these for side markers/signals.  They look good, are super low draw
& really bright.
--
Sean Rarey
GPEV
www.gpev.us

> Mine is a 2008, and the front turn signals face front, so are not visible
> from the side. I'm thinking about adding another pair to the side fronts,
> and wiring them in would be easy. But I'm wondering if cutting an opening
> in the fiberglass body for them could potentially get me into hat water.
>
> Thanks!
> Bruce
>
>

Mine is a 2008, and the front turn signals face front, so are not visible from
the side. I'm thinking about adding another pair to the side fronts, and wiring
them in would be easy. But I'm wondering if cutting an opening in the fiberglass
body for them could potentially get me into hat water.

Thanks!
Bruce

I brought my front adjustment down on the PK, and it stoped that anoying bounce.
Those springs are way to hard.  I got a spring kit from bela, but havent had the
time to install yet.

Roy


--- In Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com, Ray Wells <raywingit@...> wrote:
>
> Mine bounces due to it sitting for too long (2 weeks) and the tyre gets a flat
spot. The effect may be worse in cold weather.  I agree with putting weight up
front to soften the ride. I stuck a 100Ah AGM in the front passenger foot-well
as a band-aid to help battery #1 and the road doesn't come up through the
steering column as hard.
>
> --- On Thu, 11/19/09, Metalana1 <metalana1@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: Metalana1 <metalana1@...>
> Subject: Re: [Xebra_EV] Bouncing when accellerating
> To: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, November 19, 2009, 8:19 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> If it just started. I think I would be checking the tire for ply separation.
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Corin <my.ev.conversion@...>
> To: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, November 19, 2009 10:28:01 AM
> Subject: [Xebra_EV] Bouncing when accellerating
>
>  
>
> The front of my 2008 hatchback has started bouncing pretty bad when
> accelerating, usually between the 5-10mph range. I'm not sure if it's due
> to the colder weather or not, but it didn't used to do it this bad a few
> months ago. I'm not talking vibration, I'm meaning that the spring
> compression seems to be in a nice rhythm that gives some good bounce, even
> on perfectly smooth roads.
>
> I figure my spring needs to be adjusted, but would it need to be tightened
> or loosened? I figure I'm going to have to experiment, but wanted to get
> input first.
>
> Also, what's the best way to adjust this spring on the 2008 hatchback? I'm
> assuming that I have to adjust the two stainless steel rings at the bottom
> of the spring, and not the nut at the top, right? What kind of tool works
> best for this, and can I adjust this without compressing the spring first to
> release the pressure on the rings?
>
> ~ Corin
>

----- Original Message -----

From: Corin

To: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 10:28 AM

Subject: [Xebra_EV] Bouncing when accellerating

 

The front of my 2008 hatchback has started bouncing pretty bad when
accelerating, usually between the 5-10mph range. I'm not sure if it's due
to the colder weather or not, but it didn't used to do it this bad a few
months ago. I'm not talking vibration, I'm meaning that the spring
compression seems to be in a nice rhythm that gives some good bounce, even
on perfectly smooth roads.

I figure my spring needs to be adjusted, but would it need to be tightened
or loosened? I figure I'm going to have to experiment, but wanted to get
input first.

Also, what's the best way to adjust this spring on the 2008 hatchback? I'm
assuming that I have to adjust the two stainless steel rings at the bottom
of the spring, and not the nut at the top, right? What kind of tool works
best for this, and can I adjust this without compressing the spring first to
release the pressure on the rings?

~ Corin

----- Original Message -----

From: Corin

To: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 10:31 AM

Subject: [Xebra_EV] Replace charge cover with non-locking one?

 

Has anyone replaced their "gas cap" cover with a non-locking one?
Particularly I'm hoping to find one like my ICE has that you push in to
close, and push in to pop open (if that makes any sense). Ideally it would
be one that fits the exact holes of the current one, and would be a material
that I could paint to match the body.

If anyone knows of such a part that fits nicely, please let me know.
Otherwise I'll start my search for one and report back if I find one that
works.

~ Corin

As I recall, I replaced my original 55 watt bulb with an old-style auto
headlight using just 35watts....works fine...saving a little of the
drain....but will go LED when that option is available...

- Don Stephens, '06 V84X PK
..............................................

> Prev.Message From royvonrogers, Th, Nov.19, 2009
> Subject: [Xebra_EV] Re: Center DRL question
>
> Let me tell you all what I did (doing).  I found some led lights
> at Pep Boys, they are two rectancular lights that were meant to
> go for behind grille lighting.  They have tape backing so you can
> stick them to the body.  They have two lighting choices, full on
> and back and fort chasing.  I have stuck them right above the
> plastic grill on the PK, so I can run the wires directly between
> the grille and hood without drilling hole.
>
> I have mounted them but not hooked them up yet, I will later when
> I get time.  But the way I'm going to hook them up is...going to
> use a Bosh 20amp relay, you can get in any auto store.  Going to
> cut the  wire going to center normal running light and hook to
> relay, when I turn on ignition switch it will light the led
> lights using the NC position on relay, when I turn on the
> dashlights, it will turn on the relays NO position putting the
> center light back in the original connection.
>
> To cap it up....daylight will use leds, night time when one turns
> on the dash light, will use normal running light.  Please note,
> do not cut the other high beam wire, you not going to turn it on
> during the day, and can be left connected as is.
>
> So to the OP, put your halegon light back in, and do as I
> described above to save power. - Roy

Has anyone replaced their "gas cap" cover with a non-locking one?
Particularly I'm hoping to find one like my ICE has that you push in to
close, and push in to pop open (if that makes any sense).  Ideally it would
be one that fits the exact holes of the current one, and would be a material
that I could paint to match the body.

If anyone knows of such a part that fits nicely, please let me know.
Otherwise I'll start my search for one and report back if I find one that
works.

~ Corin

The front of my 2008 hatchback has started bouncing pretty bad when
accelerating, usually between the 5-10mph range.  I'm not sure if it's due
to the colder weather or not, but it didn't used to do it this bad a few
months ago.  I'm not talking vibration, I'm meaning that the spring
compression seems to be in a nice rhythm that gives some good bounce, even
on perfectly smooth roads.

I figure my spring needs to be adjusted, but would it need to be tightened
or loosened?  I figure I'm going to have to experiment, but wanted to get
input first.

Also, what's the best way to adjust this spring on the 2008 hatchback?  I'm
assuming that I have to adjust the two stainless steel rings at the bottom
of the spring, and not the nut at the top, right?  What kind of tool works
best for this, and can I adjust this without compressing the spring first to
release the pressure on the rings?

~ Corin

Hello
I'm looking for some information  on the black Curtis controller that is in my
2006 sd.  Where can I find the maximum current?  And what are the specifications
on the accessory battery?  It looks like a small motorcycle battery but I can't
see the voltage or amperage.
Thanks

Nataly

In this album is a picture of how I mounted the led's.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Xebra_EV/photos/album/2005196827/pic/list

Roy


--- In Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com, "royvonrogers" <royvonrogers@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Let me tell you all what I did (doing).  I found some led lights at Pep Boys,
they are two rectancular lights that were meant to go for behind grille
lighting.  They have tape backing so you can stick them to the body.  They have
two lighting choices, full on and back and fort chasing.  I have stuck them
right above the plastic grill on the PK, so I can run the wires directly between
the grille and hood without drilling hole.
>
> I have mounted them but not hooked them up yet, I will later when I get time. 
But the way I'm going to hook them up is...going to use a Bosh 20amp relay, you
can get in any auto store.  Going to cut the  wire going to center normal
running light and hook to relay, when I turn on ignition switch it will light
the led lights using the NC position on relay, when I turn on the dashlights, it
will turn on the relays NO position putting the center light back in the
original connection.
>
> To cap it up....daylight will use leds, night time when one turns on the dash
light, will use normal running light.  Please note, do not cut the other high
beam wire, you not going to turn it on during the day, and can be left connected
as is.
>
> So to the OP, put your halegon light back in, and do as I described above to
save power.
>
> Roy
>
>
>
>
> --- In Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com, "Don Lewis" <don@> wrote:
> >
> > A standard headlight also works fine in the place of the "motorcycle light".
> > The same hi/lo beam light used in the older cars. I did not check but I bet
> > they are less expensive.
> >
> >
> >
> > Don Lewis
> >
> > Small Planet "E" Vehicles
> >
> > 724 Main St
> >
> > Longmont, CO 80501
> >
> > 720-224-9748 (C)
> >
> > www.smallplanetearth.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
> > Of AlainM
> > Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 7:18 PM
> > To: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Xebra_EV] Center DRL question
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I only just learned that DRL = day running light (or something close to
> > that).
> >
> > My DRL has burnt out so a standard motorcycle H4 bulb replacement is
> > recommended.
> >
> > Here is my question:
> >
> > Why isn't there an LED replacement for the DRL? If it is constantly on and
> > draws so much power ( enough to burn ourselves on against the lens) surely
> > ("... stop calling me Shirley...") this is the best place to put LEDs?
> >
> > In fact, wouldn't an oscillating LED be the best DRL?
> >
> > It isn't used for illumination of the road but to draw attention for safety,
> > right?
> >
> > I am really curious why the DRL isn't a low powered LED and, if any lights
> > needed to be highpowered non-LED options, the outside, manually switched,
> > lights aren't the ones?
> >
> > Any one have thoghts and wisdom to share?
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Alain
> >
>

Let me tell you all what I did (doing).  I found some led lights at Pep Boys,
they are two rectancular lights that were meant to go for behind grille
lighting.  They have tape backing so you can stick them to the body.  They have
two lighting choices, full on and back and fort chasing.  I have stuck them
right above the plastic grill on the PK, so I can run the wires directly between
the grille and hood without drilling hole.

I have mounted them but not hooked them up yet, I will later when I get time. 
But the way I'm going to hook them up is...going to use a Bosh 20amp relay, you
can get in any auto store.  Going to cut the  wire going to center normal
running light and hook to relay, when I turn on ignition switch it will light
the led lights using the NC position on relay, when I turn on the dashlights, it
will turn on the relays NO position putting the center light back in the
original connection.

To cap it up....daylight will use leds, night time when one turns on the dash
light, will use normal running light.  Please note, do not cut the other high
beam wire, you not going to turn it on during the day, and can be left connected
as is.

So to the OP, put your halegon light back in, and do as I described above to
save power.

Roy




--- In Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com, "Don Lewis" <don@...> wrote:
>
> A standard headlight also works fine in the place of the "motorcycle light".
> The same hi/lo beam light used in the older cars. I did not check but I bet
> they are less expensive.
>
>
>
> Don Lewis
>
> Small Planet "E" Vehicles
>
> 724 Main St
>
> Longmont, CO 80501
>
> 720-224-9748 (C)
>
> www.smallplanetearth.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
> Of AlainM
> Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 7:18 PM
> To: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Xebra_EV] Center DRL question
>
>
>
>
>
> I only just learned that DRL = day running light (or something close to
> that).
>
> My DRL has burnt out so a standard motorcycle H4 bulb replacement is
> recommended.
>
> Here is my question:
>
> Why isn't there an LED replacement for the DRL? If it is constantly on and
> draws so much power ( enough to burn ourselves on against the lens) surely
> ("... stop calling me Shirley...") this is the best place to put LEDs?
>
> In fact, wouldn't an oscillating LED be the best DRL?
>
> It isn't used for illumination of the road but to draw attention for safety,
> right?
>
> I am really curious why the DRL isn't a low powered LED and, if any lights
> needed to be highpowered non-LED options, the outside, manually switched,
> lights aren't the ones?
>
> Any one have thoghts and wisdom to share?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alain
>

----- Original Message -----

From: CyberFembot

To: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 10:50 PM

Subject: Re: [Xebra_EV] Center DRL question

 



OR...

You could just buy one of these...

 

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-x-White-68-LED-H4-SMD-Fog-Light-Bulbs-12V-Car-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45ef54a2a2QQitemZ300368044706QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

If that look interesting to you I've got a couple extra that I bought, they seem to last a LONG time so if you want one of my unused ones...

I'm happy to share for a small fee... $5 + shipping... $10 should cover priority mail to you.

 

Let me know...

 

halzucati@comcast.net

 

 - H

 

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Metalana1

To: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 9:39 PM

Subject: Re: [Xebra_EV] Center DRL question

 

Alain,

That is a good idea. The law calls for a head light so I suppose one could replace it with an LED and replace the two outside lights with 9004 bulbs for nighttime driving. You will have to remove the chrome covers from your inner headlight to use these bulbs. I used 2057 LED auto bulbs built into the old headlight socket to replace my outside lights.  I think I will put one of them in the center light and 9004's on the outside since most of my driving is during the daytime.

Take your old bulb and carefully remove the glass using a rag and pliers being careful not to distort the base of the bulb. buy a pair of 2057 LED bulbs available from most auto parts stores. A 2057 is a tail and brake light bulb so you can wire it to work as high and low beam on the center light. I used regular right stuff gasket maker ( it was available ) to set the bulb in the socket after soldering the three small lead wires between the bulb and socket. I would recomend clear silicon in the future as the right stuff leaves a black ring between the bulb and socket. You could use your oscillating LED I suppose even though I am not familiar with it. ( like we don't draw enough attention as it is? LOL)

Dave

---

From: AlainM <alainmillar@yahoo.com>
To: Xebra_EV@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, November 16, 2009 6:17:45 PM
Subject: [Xebra_EV] Center DRL question

 

I only just learned that DRL = day running light (or something close to that).

My DRL has burnt out so a standard motorcycle H4 bulb replacement is recommended.

Here is my question:

Why isn't there an LED replacement for the DRL? If it is constantly on and draws so much power ( enough to burn ourselves on against the lens) surely ("... stop calling me Shirley...") this is the best place to put LEDs?

In fact, wouldn't an oscillating LED be the best DRL?

It isn't used for illumination of the road but to draw attention for safety, right?

I am really curious why the DRL isn't a low powered LED and, if any lights needed to be highpowered non-LED options, the outside, manually switched, lights aren't the ones?

Any one have thoghts and wisdom to share?

Cheers,

Alain