OK, got the clutch tool from Greer (quick shipping!). The nut on the
clutch sprocket broke loose with about 60-70 ft/lbs. Which means that it
was probably only tightened to about 50-60 ft/lbs. But I'm stuck trying
to get the engine sprocket off. The nut's off but the sprocket is on there!

The books says to tap it with a lead hammer. I've got a hard rubber
mallet, but its not doing anything. So I'm trying a standard steel
hammer, but only rapping lightly to shock/break the sprocket - no luck.

I assume that the admonition to use a lead hammer is because hitting the
sprocket too hard with a standard hammer will damage something
(bearings?). But since I'm not having any luck, I'm wanting to do more
than just 'tap' on that sprocket.

Can I give it a pretty firm hit without hurting anything?

What harm will I do if I hit it too hard with a standard hammer??

Thanks much,
Marty

m.kolina wrote:
>
>
> Yes, there is a seal on the main shaft bushing in the clutch basket.
> But, I'm planning to 're-open' the tranny to the primary while I've got
> everything apart (and replace that bushing). My opinion is that, for me,
> the negatives of a closed tranny slightly outweigh the positives. But
> that's another thread. Right now I'm expecting the clutch tool in the
> next few days, then I'll pull the clutch basket and get a better read on
> the immediate problem.
>
> Marty
>
> Tim Hedden wrote:
> >
> >
> > You stated that the transmission and the primary were sealed from each
> > other.. It is super important that the clutch basket be sealed where
> > it meets the main shaft !!! If not the oil from the transmission will
> > wick out aong the shaft and over fill the primary leaving the
> > transmission empty...
> > I have seen this happen twice with two different bikes. One seized the
> > tranmision up. Sealed bearings are a must but sealing the clutch
> > basket near the bearing is not necessary.
> >
> > Tim.
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: m.kolna <m.kolina@... <mailto:m.kolina%40att.net>
> <mailto:m.kolina%40att.net>>
> > To: VirtualIndian@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:VirtualIndian%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:VirtualIndian%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2009 12:02:48 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Virtual Indian] Water transfer decals - now clutch play
> >
> > Thanks Bill and John,
> >
> > As soon as I get the Greer tool I'll have the clutch sprocket off. This
> > tranny was 'rebuilt' for me, but with a badly worn gear set. I assume
> > the bearings were replaced with new sealed bearings, since the guy who
> > did the work sealed the tranny/primary.
> >
> > I don't know what type of bearing he used, but I'm assuming that I may
> > be able to see some marking when I get the clutch basket off.
> >
> > How can I tell if the bearing is in backward?
> >
> > I tried to shim for proper main shaft end-play (.005-.01) when I
> > assembled the unit, but I've just checked, and its about .02 now. I'll
> > correct that. I wonder if that could be the problem, or contributing to
> > the problem?
> >
> > There were already grooves in the inner primary from a loose chain at
> > some time in the past with a prior owner, but they do seem deeper now,
> > and I did have a lot of metal on the magnetic drain plug. So I'm pretty
> > sure the chain was rubbing.
> >
> > Thanks much,
> > Marty
> >
> > Bill Rowe wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I was the one that asked about the bearings, I just got done pulling a
> > > 7207 that was in backward. This allowed the clutch basket to
> travel out
> > > too far and rub inside the primary case. Real important to get this
> > > right with your spacing correctly on the 7207. All the play should be
> > > inward , and that is taken up with correct spacers on the main shaft.
> > > You have to hold the basket in the bearing, and push the play
> outward to
> > > set the spacing correctly. A bearing in backward would make it seem
> > > like the basket is wobbly and not tight, and the only pressure holding
> > > it in is the spring tension on the kicker ratchet gear on the
> other side
> > > of the main shaft. Also make sure that the special washer on the
> basket
> > > nut is thick enough to cover the threads. I bought one of the thin new
> > > tab less ones and found that it barely covered too the threads, and
> > > thought the nut might be real close on bottoming out on the
> threads and
> > > not the bearing. Any fresh marks in the primary case from rubbing ?
> > > Dirtbag
> > >
> > > John Welch wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Marty,
> > > > I think someone asked if you had the 6000 series or 7000 series
> > > > bearing on the transmission clutch side. Your answer could help
> with a
> > > > solution but I must have missed it.
> > > > If the bearing is a 6000 (6207) series, then excessive clutch basket
> > > > end play is probably a loose nut. If it is the 7000 (7207)
> series then
> > > > excessive play is probably main shaft thrust washers not
> properly set
> > > > although a loose nut can contribute as well..
> > > > Indian used the 7000 series up to '51 and then went to the 6000
> series
> > > > for '52/53. I personally use the 6000 series in all years as it has
> > > > better axial tolerances.
> > > > Axial play in the 7000 series is reliant on a preload that, in this
> > > > case, is present only when the clutch is engaged. When released, the
> > > > end play relies on the main shaft thrust washers being correct and
> > > > should not exceed about '010"
> > > > This all assumes the bearing is not worn and is tight in the case
> > > housing
> > > > John
> > > >
> > > > On Jun 30, 2009, m.kolna <m.kolina@att. net <mailto:m.kolina%
> > 40att.net>
> > > > <mailto:m..kolina% 40att.net> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Tim,
> > > >
> > > > Here's the latest... I've got the lid off the tranny, and I can
> > feel the
> > > > 'rocking' movement of the clutch sprocket inside on the sprocket
> nut.
> > > > The nut does not seem to have come loose, but its hard to get a
> wrench
> > > > (even the 'special' wrench), or chisel on that nut at a good
> angle to
> > > > either tighten or loosen it with the engine/tranny in the frame.
> I was
> > > > getting ready to pull the engine until someone pointed me to this
> > Greer
> > > > tool:
> > > > http://www.jerrygre ersengineering. com/part_ view.php?
> part_id=11403
> > > <http://www.jerrygre ersengineering. com/part_ view.php?
> part_id=11403>
> > > > <http://www.jerrygre ersengineering. com/part_ view.php?
> > part_id=11403
> > > <http://www.jerrygre ersengineering. com/part_ view.php?
> part_id=11403>>
> > > > It allows you to hold the nut with the wrench, and then put a socket
> > > > handle on the sprocket tool, to turn the sprocket to tighten or
> loosen
> > > > the nut.
> > > > I talked with Todd at Greer this morning, and he says the problem
> > sounds
> > > > like I may not have gotten the nut tight enough. He says the bushing
> > > > would have to be *really* worn to be the cause of the problem.
> He also
> > > > says that they're able to tighten the sprocket/nut down to 100
> ft/lbs
> > > > with this tool. When I get the tool, I'm going to see how many
> > ft/lbs it
> > > > takes to break the nut loose, and then be sure to torque it down
> > tight,
> > > > and see if that fixes the problem.
> > > >
> > > > So, if the type of end-play that you're experiencing is the same
> > type of
> > > > 'rocking' of the clutch hub that I'm seeing, be sure the clutch
> > hub nut
> > > > in the tranny is *tight*.
> > > >
> > > > After I get the tool and have a chance to go further into this,
> > I'll let
> > > > you know what happens.
> > > >
> > > > Marty
> > > >
> > > > j
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > No virus found in this incoming message.
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> > > > Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.1/2212 - Release Date:
> > > 07/01/09 05:53:00
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
>