Hi all,

The CEL came on in my 2002 TDI earlier this week after a night of freezing
temperatures.

It started up alright; I noticed the light later in the morning while driving.

I called up Auto Zone to make sure they had an OBD computer available and the
guy there said that they haven't had them for several months, that the state of
CA no longer allows them to lend them out to customers.

So my husband brought the car to our trusted mechanic to read the code for a
flat fee and, while he didn't write down the code number from the computer, came
back and said that the 4th glow plug is not working.

I realize this isn't much to go on, but does it sound like I should just replace
the 4th glow plug, or is it best to replace all the glow plugs at once while I'm
at it?

Any thoughts and/or opinions appreciated,

Rosannah

Why would anyone expect the owners manual to tell you about using a
floor jack?

There are usually suspension mounting points that can be jacked on.


iluvtwm wrote:
>
> These are great links, thank you. The owners manual is useless.
>
> JD
>
> --- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com <mailto:VW-TDI%40yahoogroups.com>, Asa
> Bour <bourea@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Please see these two threads at the TDI Club for jack pad
> installation instructions or other approaches:
> >
> > http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=57971&highlight=jack+pad
> <http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=57971&highlight=jack+pad>
> >
> > http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=74613&highlight=jack+pad
> <http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=74613&highlight=jack+pad>
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Asa
> >
> > The fastest and easiest way to buy or sell a TDI Diesel Volkswagen Car
> >
> > got tdi?
> >
> > http://gottdi.com <http://gottdi.com>
> >
> > > To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com <mailto:VW-TDI%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > From: iluvtwm@...
> > > Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:39:00 +0000
> > > Subject: [VW-TDI] Re: Jack points
> > >
> > > This is great, although I don't see where these pads go. I'm a bit
> thick headed, so please pardon my ignornace.
> > > The factory jack has a ridge that the rocker panel edge sits in,
> but these are round and flat.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com <mailto:VW-TDI%40yahoogroups.com>,
> Asa Bour <bourea@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > JD,
> > > >
> > > > You probably want to install the Jack Pad kit from ECS:
> > > > http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--TDI/Search/Jack/
> <http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--TDI/Search/Jack/>
> > > >
> > > > Another option would be to use ramps.
> > > >
> > > > Hope this helps,
> > > > Asa
> > > >
> > > > The fastest and easiest way to buy or sell a TDI Diesel
> Volkswagen Car
> > > >
> > > > got tdi?
> > > >
> > > > http://gottdi.com <http://gottdi.com>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com <mailto:VW-TDI%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > From: iluvtwm@
> > > > > Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:29:27 +0000
> > > > > Subject: [VW-TDI] Jack points
> > > > >
> > > > > Friends,
> > > > > I have a 2009 TDI Sportwagon with 5k mi, and last night
> decided to rotate my tires. I quickly found out that the supplied jack
> is the pitts, and had could not get it high enough to get any stands
> under the car.
> > > > > So, if I use a hydraulic jack, which one should I purchase,
> and where can you attach it other than the suggested flimsy lip under
> the door? Same for the stands; there is so much plastic covering under
> the car, I couldn't see any sturdy structural members to place a stand
> anyway! The only metal I see, is the suspension, and that seems to be
> very delicate with lots of aluminum parts.
> > > > > Am I relegated to taking it to the tire shop for rotation?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > > JD
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ------------------------------------
> > > > >
> > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > __________________________________________________________
> > > > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
> > > >
>
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFES\
RP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1
>
<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFE\
SRP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1>
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > __________________________________________________________
> > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
> >
>
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFES\
RP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1
>
<http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFE\
SRP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1>
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>

These are great links, thank you. The owners manual is useless.

JD

--- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com, Asa Bour <bourea@...> wrote:
>
>
> Please see these two threads at the TDI Club for jack pad installation
instructions or other approaches:
>
> http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=57971&highlight=jack+pad
>
> http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=74613&highlight=jack+pad
>
> Thanks,
> Asa
>
> The fastest and easiest way to buy or sell a TDI Diesel Volkswagen Car
>
> got tdi?
>
> http://gottdi.com
>
> > To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
> > From: iluvtwm@...
> > Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:39:00 +0000
> > Subject: [VW-TDI] Re: Jack points
> >
> > This is great, although I don't see where these pads go. I'm a bit thick
headed, so please pardon my ignornace.
> > The factory jack has a ridge that the rocker panel edge sits in, but these
are round and flat.
> >
> >
> > --- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com, Asa Bour <bourea@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > JD,
> > >
> > > You probably want to install the Jack Pad kit from ECS:
> > > http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--TDI/Search/Jack/
> > >
> > > Another option would be to use ramps.
> > >
> > > Hope this helps,
> > > Asa
> > >
> > > The fastest and easiest way to buy or sell a TDI Diesel Volkswagen Car
> > >
> > > got tdi?
> > >
> > > http://gottdi.com
> > >
> > >
> > > > To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
> > > > From: iluvtwm@
> > > > Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:29:27 +0000
> > > > Subject: [VW-TDI] Jack points
> > > >
> > > > Friends,
> > > > I have a 2009 TDI Sportwagon with 5k mi, and last night decided to
rotate my tires. I quickly found out that the supplied jack is the pitts, and
had could not get it high enough to get any stands under the car.
> > > > So, if I use a hydraulic jack, which one should I purchase, and where
can you attach it other than the suggested flimsy lip under the door? Same for
the stands; there is so much plastic covering under the car, I couldn't see any
sturdy structural members to place a stand anyway! The only metal I see, is the
suspension, and that seems to be very delicate with lots of aluminum parts.
> > > > Am I relegated to taking it to the tire shop for rotation?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > JD
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
> > >
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFES\
RP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
>
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFES\
RP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Please see these two threads at the TDI Club for jack pad installation
instructions or other approaches:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=57971&highlight=jack+pad

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=74613&highlight=jack+pad

Thanks,
Asa

The fastest and easiest way to buy or sell a TDI Diesel Volkswagen Car

got tdi?

http://gottdi.com

> To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
> From: iluvtwm@...
> Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:39:00 +0000
> Subject: [VW-TDI] Re: Jack points
>
> This is great, although I don't see where these pads go. I'm a bit thick
headed, so please pardon my ignornace.
> The factory jack has a ridge that the rocker panel edge sits in, but these are
round and flat.
>
>
> --- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com, Asa Bour <bourea@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > JD,
> >
> > You probably want to install the Jack Pad kit from ECS:
> > http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--TDI/Search/Jack/
> >
> > Another option would be to use ramps.
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> > Asa
> >
> > The fastest and easiest way to buy or sell a TDI Diesel Volkswagen Car
> >
> > got tdi?
> >
> > http://gottdi.com
> >
> >
> > > To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
> > > From: iluvtwm@...
> > > Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:29:27 +0000
> > > Subject: [VW-TDI] Jack points
> > >
> > > Friends,
> > > I have a 2009 TDI Sportwagon with 5k mi, and last night decided to rotate
my tires. I quickly found out that the supplied jack is the pitts, and had could
not get it high enough to get any stands under the car.
> > > So, if I use a hydraulic jack, which one should I purchase, and where can
you attach it other than the suggested flimsy lip under the door? Same for the
stands; there is so much plastic covering under the car, I couldn't see any
sturdy structural members to place a stand anyway! The only metal I see, is the
suspension, and that seems to be very delicate with lots of aluminum parts.
> > > Am I relegated to taking it to the tire shop for rotation?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > JD
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
> >
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFES\
RP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFES\
RP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

There should be some info in the owners manual as to jack points.  I would buy
a floor jack--most any will do--actually, I would buy two, so you can jack up
two corners of the car at the same time.  I am not familiar with the 09s but
there are a number of places where you can jack.

Do you have a TDI guru yet?  I would find out who your local TDI expert is, and
pay them a visit.  Or go to a TDI get-to-gether and find out lots of
information.

Shawn Upton, KB1CKT

--- On Wed, 11/18/09, iluvtwm <iluvtwm@...> wrote:

From: iluvtwm <iluvtwm@...>
Subject: [VW-TDI] Jack points
To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, November 18, 2009, 8:29 AM







 









       Friends,

I have a 2009 TDI Sportwagon with 5k mi, and last night decided to rotate my
tires. I quickly found out that the supplied jack is the pitts, and had could
not get it high enough to get any stands under the car.

So, if I use a hydraulic jack, which one should I purchase, and where can you
attach it other than the suggested flimsy lip under the door? Same for the
stands; there is so much plastic covering under the car, I couldn't see any
sturdy structural members to place a stand anyway! The only metal I see, is the
suspension, and that seems to be very delicate with lots of aluminum parts.

Am I relegated to taking it to the tire shop for rotation?



Thanks

JD

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This is great, although I don't see where these pads go. I'm a bit thick headed,
so please pardon my ignornace.
The factory jack has a ridge that the rocker panel edge sits in, but these are
round and flat.


--- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com, Asa Bour <bourea@...> wrote:
>
>
> JD,
>
> You probably want to install the Jack Pad kit from ECS:
> http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--TDI/Search/Jack/
>
> Another option would be to use ramps.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Asa
>
> The fastest and easiest way to buy or sell a TDI Diesel Volkswagen Car
>
> got tdi?
>
> http://gottdi.com
>
>
> > To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
> > From: iluvtwm@...
> > Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:29:27 +0000
> > Subject: [VW-TDI] Jack points
> >
> > Friends,
> > I have a 2009 TDI Sportwagon with 5k mi, and last night decided to rotate my
tires. I quickly found out that the supplied jack is the pitts, and had could
not get it high enough to get any stands under the car.
> > So, if I use a hydraulic jack, which one should I purchase, and where can
you attach it other than the suggested flimsy lip under the door? Same for the
stands; there is so much plastic covering under the car, I couldn't see any
sturdy structural members to place a stand anyway! The only metal I see, is the
suspension, and that seems to be very delicate with lots of aluminum parts.
> > Am I relegated to taking it to the tire shop for rotation?
> >
> > Thanks
> > JD
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
>
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFES\
RP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

JD,

You probably want to install the Jack Pad kit from ECS:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--TDI/Search/Jack/

Another option would be to use ramps.

Hope this helps,
Asa

The fastest and easiest way to buy or sell a TDI Diesel Volkswagen Car

got tdi?

http://gottdi.com


> To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
> From: iluvtwm@...
> Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:29:27 +0000
> Subject: [VW-TDI] Jack points
>
> Friends,
> I have a 2009 TDI Sportwagon with 5k mi, and last night decided to rotate my
tires. I quickly found out that the supplied jack is the pitts, and had could
not get it high enough to get any stands under the car.
> So, if I use a hydraulic jack, which one should I purchase, and where can you
attach it other than the suggested flimsy lip under the door? Same for the
stands; there is so much plastic covering under the car, I couldn't see any
sturdy structural members to place a stand anyway! The only metal I see, is the
suspension, and that seems to be very delicate with lots of aluminum parts.
> Am I relegated to taking it to the tire shop for rotation?
>
> Thanks
> JD
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MFES\
RP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You should be able to find a spot for each jack stand as I rotate my tires on my
2000 Jetta TDI.



Be careful, I have a noticeable dent on the left side where the bottom corner of
the door meets the fender.



I use a standard 3 ton hydraulic jack and jack stands I bought at K-mart.



Good luck,



George in STL

2000 Jetta TDI

170,000 miles



To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
From: iluvtwm@...
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:29:27 +0000
Subject: [VW-TDI] Jack points





Friends,
I have a 2009 TDI Sportwagon with 5k mi, and last night decided to rotate my
tires. I quickly found out that the supplied jack is the pitts, and had could
not get it high enough to get any stands under the car.
So, if I use a hydraulic jack, which one should I purchase, and where can you
attach it other than the suggested flimsy lip under the door? Same for the
stands; there is so much plastic covering under the car, I couldn't see any
sturdy structural members to place a stand anyway! The only metal I see, is the
suspension, and that seems to be very delicate with lots of aluminum parts.
Am I relegated to taking it to the tire shop for rotation?

Thanks
JD






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Friends,
I have a 2009 TDI Sportwagon with 5k mi, and last night decided to rotate my
tires. I quickly found out that the supplied jack is the pitts, and had could
not get it high enough to get any stands under the car.
So, if I use a hydraulic jack, which one should I purchase, and where can you
attach it other than the suggested flimsy lip under the door? Same for the
stands; there is so much plastic covering under the car, I couldn't see any
sturdy structural members to place a stand anyway! The only metal I see, is the
suspension, and that seems to be very delicate with lots of aluminum parts.
Am I relegated to taking it to the tire shop for rotation?

Thanks
JD

I have asked about converting the old TDI to the newer TDI canister before. 
They said that the mounts are totally different and you can not put the newer
canister on the old TDI block.  Why would you want to?  If you have ever changed
oil on the older style TDI you know what a pain it is to get the spin on filter
out from the top, and there is not enough room to remove from the bottom because
of the engine subframe going across under the oil filter.  There is barely
enough room after you move the A/C line a little & remove a hose holder, to
scrap the filter by the fan schroud.  If we could put a canister on it, it would
be just as easy as the newer TDI.

My method of is unscrew the oil filter what ever the easiest way is for you (I
use a rubber strap wrench, just don't over tighten the oil filter or it won't
take it off).  Then insert a finger into the the center of the oil the filter
(make sure the oil is not too hot or you will get burned), then hold the A/C
line out the way with your other hand, and pull up hard with the hand with your
finger in the filter while you slide it pass the hoses, filter housing, & fan
shroud.  It is a messy job, but it works.  Then fill about 3/4 or more of the
new filter with oil (not completely full so you don't spill any).  I have to tip
the filter at a slight angle to get in in & mounted, using my finger in the
middle of the filter again, until it is in position to spin it on.  Don't over
tighten the oil filter, or you may have a time getting it off when the next time
comes.  All my TDI's seems to form a very tight seal on the oil filter, or cap,
after they have ran for a while even if you don't tighten them super tight (by
hand of course).  They don't seem to need a wrench to tighten or you might never
get them off the next time (I had to buy three different types wrenches before I
found one that could get my canister cap off my newer TDI after I put it on hand
tight).


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Tad
   To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 6:46 PM
   Subject: Re: [VW-TDI] Oil filter problems recommendation?



   How would one go about using a cartridge instead of a canister?? Other than
   getting a new car that is?

   I also have the cartridge-style,and from what I've seen all of the German
   OEM brands (Mann, Mahle, etc) are equivalent.

   On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 1:41 PM, F.Kennon Smith
<mr.solstar@...>wrote:

   > My TDI uses cartridge filter for oil, not the canister (type cartridge
   > that screws on)! Try Pureoil cartridge not canister! main thing
   > change often the filter! shop price some times Mann or Bosh are less
   > expensive!
   >
   >
   >
   > On Nov 10, 2009, at 10:45 AM, johnspeth wrote:
   >
   > > Can anyone recommend a good oil filter brand other than Bosch for my
   > > 1998 Jetta TDI? I've used Bosch filters for the entire life of my
   > > car but I'm fed up with the slipperyness of the filter when it gets
   > > the least bit oily (usually when removing it and oil drips down the
   > > side).
   > >
   > > Fram makes crappy filters but they have that nice grippy rubber
   > > coating that makes screwing the filter on and off easy. Are there
   > > any high quality oil filters for a 98 TDI with grippy features?
   > >
   > > Or how about some DIY formulation that I can paint on (like sand and
   > > varnish or something similar)?
   > >
   > > Thanks, JJS.
   > >
   > >
   >
   >
   >
   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
   >
   >
   >
   > ------------------------------------
   >
   > Yahoo! Groups Links
   >
   >
   >
   >

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

No offense to anyone intended but it shouldn't be an unsolvable problem.
  Either the electrical duty cycle isn't getting to the valve, the valve
isn't properly modulating the vacuum, there isn't sufficient vacuum
available due to leaking or pump issues, the vacuum pot on the turbo isn't
working properly, or the wastegate isn't flowing enough... maybe clogged
with soot?

In any case, too much boost is bad for longevity of the turbo and the
engine, so it'd be better to resolve the issue than defeat the safety.
although I guess with 200k you don't have that much to lose.

On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 4:59 PM, <wfs1@...> wrote:

> John and Tom,
>
> I have a 97 Passat wagon w/ 201 K that had the same problem, the only thing
> my mechanic
> could find was that the turbo was making to much boost for some unknown
> reason and this
> made the computer go into limp mode.  This usually happened going up hill
> when the engine
> approached 3000 rpm.  I also looked into the N75 valve and found that it
> was working.  I
> searched the web and I found a fuel cut eliminator at this website
> http://www.3barracing.com/
> it is a simple device that installs in the hose from the manifold to the
> computer and adjusts
> the boost signal to the computer to a level so that the engine does not go
> into limp mode.  I
> have had this installed now for several years and after finding the right
> adjustment on the
> device my engine no longer goes into limp mode.  Also the best time to make
> th boost
> adjustments is during the winter because the air is more dense.
>
> Bill
>
> On 9 Nov 2009 at 15:46, kartracer12001 wrote:
>
> >
> > My 96 does the same thing... (250,000 miles)
> > I replaced the hose that went from the manifold to the computer. (You can
> find the computer tucked in with the wiper arm assembly, under the "brittle"
> plastic that you have to remove on the passenger side.
> > It still does it. It does it when you pull hard and long. Especially over
> 3000 rpm, going up a hill, going through the hears. You know when it happens
> because it lays over and the gas peddle gives little response. And, yes,
> off/on restart does the trick.
> >
> > Dying to know what it is...
> >
> > John
> > --- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com, "shockts" <shockts@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Howdy all,
> > > My old trusty 96 passat wagon w/ 204K on it has an intermittent turbo
> failure.  Always works when cold but goes out once underway.  If I pull
> over, shut the car down and restart, turbo is back for a while.  Obviously
> it's working when it works but something is causing it to go out.  Any
> thoughts?
> > >
> > > Thanks much,
> > > tom in WI
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Moot Point, why change systems, as mine is a 1.9 ,and yours is
different! you'll have to shop around!







On Nov 10, 2009, at 5:46 PM, Tad wrote:

> How would one go about using a cartridge instead of a canister??
> Other than
> getting a new car that is?
>
> I also have the cartridge-style,and from what I've seen all of the
> German
> OEM brands (Mann, Mahle, etc) are equivalent.
>
> On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 1:41 PM, F.Kennon Smith <mr.solstar@...
> >wrote:
>
> > My TDI uses cartridge filter for oil, not the canister (type
> cartridge
> > that screws on)! Try Pureoil cartridge not canister! main thing
> > change often the filter! shop price some times Mann or Bosh are less
> > expensive!
> >
> >
> >
> > On Nov 10, 2009, at 10:45 AM, johnspeth wrote:
> >
> > > Can anyone recommend a good oil filter brand other than Bosch
> for my
> > > 1998 Jetta TDI? I've used Bosch filters for the entire life of my
> > > car but I'm fed up with the slipperyness of the filter when it
> gets
> > > the least bit oily (usually when removing it and oil drips down
> the
> > > side).
> > >
> > > Fram makes crappy filters but they have that nice grippy rubber
> > > coating that makes screwing the filter on and off easy. Are there
> > > any high quality oil filters for a 98 TDI with grippy features?
> > >
> > > Or how about some DIY formulation that I can paint on (like sand
> and
> > > varnish or something similar)?
> > >
> > > Thanks, JJS.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Just get a 3-point wrench.


F.Kennon Smith wrote:
>
> yes that too will work!
>
> On Nov 10, 2009, at 11:40 AM, Norman Leong wrote:
>
> >
> > Why don't you just get some vegetable rubber band thingees, you
> > know, the *fat* rubber bands that you get from the grocery store,
> > and just stick it on the end before you try and take the filter off
> > so you (or your wrench) have something to grab onto?
> >
> >
> >
> > To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com <mailto:VW-TDI%40yahoogroups.com>
> > From: johnspeth@... <mailto:johnspeth%40yahoo.com>
> > Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 16:45:56 +0000
> > Subject: [VW-TDI] Oil filter problems recommendation?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Can anyone recommend a good oil filter brand other than Bosch for my
> > 1998 Jetta TDI? I've used Bosch filters for the entire life of my
> > car but I'm fed up with the slipperyness of the filter when it gets
> > the least bit oily (usually when removing it and oil drips down the
> > side).
> >
> > Fram makes crappy filters but they have that nice grippy rubber
> > coating that makes screwing the filter on and off easy. Are there
> > any high quality oil filters for a 98 TDI with grippy features?
> >
> > Or how about some DIY formulation that I can paint on (like sand and
> > varnish or something similar)?
> >
> > Thanks, JJS.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________________
> > Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
> > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
> <http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/>
> > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
> <http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/>
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.704 / Virus Database: 270.14.58/2493 - Release Date: 11/09/09
14:40:00
>
>

John and Tom,

I have a 97 Passat wagon w/ 201 K that had the same problem, the only thing my
mechanic
could find was that the turbo was making to much boost for some unknown reason
and this
made the computer go into limp mode.  This usually happened going up hill when
the engine
approached 3000 rpm.  I also looked into the N75 valve and found that it was
working.  I
searched the web and I found a fuel cut eliminator at this website
http://www.3barracing.com/
it is a simple device that installs in the hose from the manifold to the
computer and adjusts
the boost signal to the computer to a level so that the engine does not go into
limp mode.  I
have had this installed now for several years and after finding the right
adjustment on the
device my engine no longer goes into limp mode.  Also the best time to make th
boost
adjustments is during the winter because the air is more dense.

Bill

On 9 Nov 2009 at 15:46, kartracer12001 wrote:

>
> My 96 does the same thing... (250,000 miles)
> I replaced the hose that went from the manifold to the computer. (You can find
the computer tucked in with the wiper arm assembly, under the "brittle" plastic
that you have to remove on the passenger side.
> It still does it. It does it when you pull hard and long. Especially over 3000
rpm, going up a hill, going through the hears. You know when it happens because
it lays over and the gas peddle gives little response. And, yes, off/on restart
does the trick.
>
> Dying to know what it is...
>
> John
> --- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com, "shockts" <shockts@...> wrote:
> >
> > Howdy all,
> > My old trusty 96 passat wagon w/ 204K on it has an intermittent turbo
failure.  Always works when cold but goes out once underway.  If I pull over,
shut the car down and restart, turbo is back for a while.  Obviously it's
working when it works but something is causing it to go out.  Any thoughts?
> >
> > Thanks much,
> > tom in WI
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

How would one go about using a cartridge instead of a canister??  Other than
getting a new car that is?

I also have the cartridge-style,and from what I've seen all of the German
OEM brands (Mann, Mahle, etc) are equivalent.

On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 1:41 PM, F.Kennon Smith <mr.solstar@...>wrote:

> My TDI uses cartridge filter for oil, not the canister (type cartridge
> that screws on)!  Try Pureoil cartridge not canister! main thing
> change often the filter! shop price some times Mann or Bosh are less
> expensive!
>
>
>
> On Nov 10, 2009, at 10:45 AM, johnspeth wrote:
>
> > Can anyone recommend a good oil filter brand other than Bosch for my
> > 1998 Jetta TDI? I've used Bosch filters for the entire life of my
> > car but I'm fed up with the slipperyness of the filter when it gets
> > the least bit oily (usually when removing it and oil drips down the
> > side).
> >
> > Fram makes crappy filters but they have that nice grippy rubber
> > coating that makes screwing the filter on and off easy. Are there
> > any high quality oil filters for a 98 TDI with grippy features?
> >
> > Or how about some DIY formulation that I can paint on (like sand and
> > varnish or something similar)?
> >
> > Thanks, JJS.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

yes that too will work!




On Nov 10, 2009, at 11:40 AM, Norman Leong wrote:

>
> Why don't you just get some vegetable rubber band thingees, you
> know, the *fat* rubber bands that you get from the grocery store,
> and just stick it on the end before you try and take the filter off
> so you (or your wrench) have something to grab onto?
>
>
>
> To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
> From: johnspeth@...
> Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 16:45:56 +0000
> Subject: [VW-TDI] Oil filter problems recommendation?
>
>
>
>
>
> Can anyone recommend a good oil filter brand other than Bosch for my
> 1998 Jetta TDI? I've used Bosch filters for the entire life of my
> car but I'm fed up with the slipperyness of the filter when it gets
> the least bit oily (usually when removing it and oil drips down the
> side).
>
> Fram makes crappy filters but they have that nice grippy rubber
> coating that makes screwing the filter on and off easy. Are there
> any high quality oil filters for a 98 TDI with grippy features?
>
> Or how about some DIY formulation that I can paint on (like sand and
> varnish or something similar)?
>
> Thanks, JJS.
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

My TDI uses cartridge filter for oil, not the canister (type cartridge
that screws on)!  Try Pureoil cartridge not canister! main thing
change often the filter! shop price some times Mann or Bosh are less
expensive!



On Nov 10, 2009, at 10:45 AM, johnspeth wrote:

> Can anyone recommend a good oil filter brand other than Bosch for my
> 1998 Jetta TDI? I've used Bosch filters for the entire life of my
> car but I'm fed up with the slipperyness of the filter when it gets
> the least bit oily (usually when removing it and oil drips down the
> side).
>
> Fram makes crappy filters but they have that nice grippy rubber
> coating that makes screwing the filter on and off easy. Are there
> any high quality oil filters for a 98 TDI with grippy features?
>
> Or how about some DIY formulation that I can paint on (like sand and
> varnish or something similar)?
>
> Thanks, JJS.
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Get the Amsoil bypass oil filtration system and never touch the system unless
the lab analysis indicates that it is time for an oil change.



Pays for itself in the 25,000 miles that you will go w/out an oil change.





Sincerely,



George in STL

2000 Jetta TDI

170,000 miles

Haven't had an oil change in 24,000 miles and approaching 3 years!

> To: vw-tdi@yahoogroups.com
> From: t4mv@...
> Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 09:40:01 -0800
> Subject: RE: [VW-TDI] Oil filter problems recommendation?
>
>
> Why don't you just get some vegetable rubber band thingees, you know, the
*fat* rubber bands that you get from the grocery store, and just stick it on the
end before you try and take the filter off so you (or your wrench) have
something to grab onto?
>
>
>
> To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
> From: johnspeth@...
> Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 16:45:56 +0000
> Subject: [VW-TDI] Oil filter problems recommendation?
>
>
>
>
>
> Can anyone recommend a good oil filter brand other than Bosch for my 1998
Jetta TDI? I've used Bosch filters for the entire life of my car but I'm fed up
with the slipperyness of the filter when it gets the least bit oily (usually
when removing it and oil drips down the side).
>
> Fram makes crappy filters but they have that nice grippy rubber coating that
makes screwing the filter on and off easy. Are there any high quality oil
filters for a 98 TDI with grippy features?
>
> Or how about some DIY formulation that I can paint on (like sand and varnish
or something similar)?
>
> Thanks, JJS.
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Have you tried pulling codes anyway?  Could be that there is one stored that
doesn't turn on the light for some reason.

As I understand it, you have to crack open the ECU to replace the internal
hose.

Here's the N75 valve itself...
http://tdiparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=451
<http://tdiparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=451>On my Golf
it's mounted high on the firewall with 3 vacuum hoses and a power connector.
  Not sure about the Passat.  There's a similar valve that controls the EGR,
so don't get them confused.

<http://tdiparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=451>It controls
the turbo wastegate, which is internal to the turbo, but actuated by a
vacuum pot mounted on the turbo... in other words the N75 controls vacuum to
the pot on the turbo, which in turn opens the wastegate to control boost.
  Leaks or malfunction anywhere in the system would inhibit boost control,
leading to limp mode.

<http://tdiparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=451>Here's a cool
diagram of the vacuum system - from a different version of the car
unfortunately, but I think the basic structure is the same.
http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii219/avaly21/MAF%20VW%20Passat/?action=view&\
current=turbo_tdi_N75_N18_N239m_EGR_VNT_Act.jpg

<http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii219/avaly21/MAF%20VW%20Passat/?action=view\
&current=turbo_tdi_N75_N18_N239m_EGR_VNT_Act.jpg>Clean
or replace?  Cleaning is cheaper but replacement is more reliable. :)

On Tue, Nov 10, 2009 at 5:58 AM, kartracer12001
<John-Ferreira@...>wrote:

>
> I know this is strange - but I do NOT get a check engine light.
>
> So - there is a hose INSIDE the ECU?
> HOW do I get to THAT?
>
> Also - You mentiond a valve and wastegate. A way to identify them?
> and
> Clean or replace?
>
> Thanks in advancxe
> John
> --- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com, Tad <tadc@...> wrote:
> >
> > Oops it's usually called "limp mode"... although I think it should give
> you
> > a check engine light.  Autozone will read the code for free if you don't
> > have a scan tool.
> >
> > Here's a good page about troubleshooting it:
> > http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/multi/limpmodetdi.htm
> >
> > <http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/multi/limpmodetdi.htm>Good
> luck!
> >
> > On Sun, Nov 8, 2009 at 5:32 PM, Tad <tadc@...> wrote:
> >
> > > If it comes back with a restart, it's probably the computer going into
> > > 'safe mode'.  Either over or underboosting, or the computer thinks it
> is due
> > > to a sensor issue.
> > >
> > > I believe the 96 Passat has the manifold pressure sensor in the ECU
> itself,
> > > connected with a long 'vacuum' hose that gets brittle with age and
> leaks,
> > > resulting in the exact symptoms you describe.  That's probably the
> easiest
> > > thing to check.
> > >
> > > On Sun, Nov 8, 2009 at 5:08 PM, shockts <shockts@...> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Howdy all,
> > >> My old trusty 96 passat wagon w/ 204K on it has an intermittent turbo
> > >> failure.  Always works when cold but goes out once underway.  If I
> pull
> > >> over, shut the car down and restart, turbo is back for a while.
>  Obviously
> > >> it's working when it works but something is causing it to go out.  Any
> > >> thoughts?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks much,
> > >> tom in WI
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ------------------------------------
> > >>
> > >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Why don't you just get some vegetable rubber band thingees, you know, the *fat*
rubber bands that you get from the grocery store, and just stick it on the end
before you try and take the filter off so you (or your wrench) have something to
grab onto?



To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
From: johnspeth@...
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 16:45:56 +0000
Subject: [VW-TDI] Oil filter problems recommendation?





Can anyone recommend a good oil filter brand other than Bosch for my 1998 Jetta
TDI? I've used Bosch filters for the entire life of my car but I'm fed up with
the slipperyness of the filter when it gets the least bit oily (usually when
removing it and oil drips down the side).

Fram makes crappy filters but they have that nice grippy rubber coating that
makes screwing the filter on and off easy. Are there any high quality oil
filters for a 98 TDI with grippy features?

Or how about some DIY formulation that I can paint on (like sand and varnish or
something similar)?

Thanks, JJS.





_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Can anyone recommend a good oil filter brand other than Bosch for my 1998 Jetta
TDI?  I've used Bosch filters for the entire life of my car but I'm fed up with
the slipperyness of the filter when it gets the least bit oily (usually when
removing it and oil drips down the side).

Fram makes crappy filters but they have that nice grippy rubber coating that
makes screwing the filter on and off easy.  Are there any high quality oil
filters for a 98 TDI with grippy features?

Or how about some DIY formulation that I can paint on (like sand and varnish or
something similar)?

Thanks, JJS.

I know this is strange - but I do NOT get a check engine light.

So - there is a hose INSIDE the ECU?
HOW do I get to THAT?

Also - You mentiond a valve and wastegate. A way to identify them?
and
Clean or replace?

Thanks in advancxe
John
--- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com, Tad <tadc@...> wrote:
>
> Oops it's usually called "limp mode"... although I think it should give you
> a check engine light.  Autozone will read the code for free if you don't
> have a scan tool.
>
> Here's a good page about troubleshooting it:
> http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/multi/limpmodetdi.htm
>
> <http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/multi/limpmodetdi.htm>Good luck!
>
> On Sun, Nov 8, 2009 at 5:32 PM, Tad <tadc@...> wrote:
>
> > If it comes back with a restart, it's probably the computer going into
> > 'safe mode'.  Either over or underboosting, or the computer thinks it is due
> > to a sensor issue.
> >
> > I believe the 96 Passat has the manifold pressure sensor in the ECU itself,
> > connected with a long 'vacuum' hose that gets brittle with age and leaks,
> > resulting in the exact symptoms you describe.  That's probably the easiest
> > thing to check.
> >
> > On Sun, Nov 8, 2009 at 5:08 PM, shockts <shockts@...> wrote:
> >
> >> Howdy all,
> >> My old trusty 96 passat wagon w/ 204K on it has an intermittent turbo
> >> failure.  Always works when cold but goes out once underway.  If I pull
> >> over, shut the car down and restart, turbo is back for a while.  Obviously
> >> it's working when it works but something is causing it to go out.  Any
> >> thoughts?
> >>
> >> Thanks much,
> >> tom in WI
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

N75 is the wastegate control solenoid that I mentioned earlier.

It's worth a try to clean it if you are tight on bucks right now.

On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 10:52 AM, JameyBidwell <jameybidwell@...>wrote:

> Tom, this sounds a lot like an N-75 valve failure, not a turbo failure.
> These are notorious on 96's, and while I agree it's a good idea to check
> and/or replace the 3 hoses that connect to it, it's worth testing the
> valve, too.  If it fails, the ECU thinks there's overboost, and cuts
> back on the feed rate.  If you're losing power especially when you're
> trying to accelerate,  there's a pretty good chance this is your
> culprit.  The valve looks like a relay with 3 hoses attached to it and
> is mounted on the firewall.  I think I paid about $50 for mine from Impex.
>
> 'Best,
> Jamey
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Tom, this sounds a lot like an N-75 valve failure, not a turbo failure.
These are notorious on 96's, and while I agree it's a good idea to check
and/or replace the 3 hoses that connect to it, it's worth testing the
valve, too.  If it fails, the ECU thinks there's overboost, and cuts
back on the feed rate.  If you're losing power especially when you're
trying to accelerate,  there's a pretty good chance this is your
culprit.  The valve looks like a relay with 3 hoses attached to it and
is mounted on the firewall.  I think I paid about $50 for mine from Impex.

'Best,
Jamey

Brian - unfortunately we're talking apples and oranges here because the 96
Passat has a wastegate turbo, so no VNT and no adjustable rod.

You do have a point though - it might not be an issue with the
pressure-sensing side of the system (as we've been discussing)... a vacuum
leak in the wastegate control system (or a buggered control solenoid) could
cause a real (as opposed to false-alarm) overboost situation, resulting in
limp mode.  If I'm not mistaken a lack of vacuum control of the wastegate
would result in unlimited boost (rather than an absence of boost as with a
VNT turbo).

There could also be a failure in the vacuum pot that actuates the wastegate
on the turbo, or perhaps even a soot-clogged wastegate, although I've never
heard of that happening on a TDI.

For that matter, a failure or leak anywhere in the vacuum system (likely in
a car this old) could play havok with the boost control.

For those experiencing this issue, you really should get it solved sooner
rather than later, as pushing excessive boost isn't a recipe for longevity
of the engine or turbo.

On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 9:44 AM, Brian Bowman <hbbowman@...> wrote:

> John,
>
> Your intermittent issue "when you pull hard and long. Especially over 3000"
> causing the engine to go into limp mode is exactly what happened to me.  The
> fix was straight forward in the end, but I do not see anyone else ever
> mentioning this.
>
> I have a 2003 Golf TDI.  My vnt actuator failed and I replaced it.  The
> actuator has a rod that connects to the vnt on the turbo.  When boost is
> needed the actuator pulls the rod down such that the vnts in the turbo move
> to speed up the generation of boost.
>
> When I replaced the actuator, the length of the rod was too short.  Thus,
> the turbo tended to over boost because the actuator was always positioning
> the vnt in a more aggressive position.  The connection of the rod to the vnt
> on the turbo can be adjusted.  It is a threaded rod with nuts connecting it
> to the vnt.
>
> By trial and error, you can adjust the effective length of the rod until
> the limp mode never happens and you still get a timely response by the
> turbo.
>
> Since you replaced the vacuum line to solve the primary issue, was the
> actuator adjusted when the vacuum line was in early stage of failure?  Or
> could something have hit the rod to produce a small bend that would
> effectively shorten it?
>
> Regardless, this worked for me but I don't see anyone else in this group or
> tdiclub.com discussing it.  When I do occasionally see someone having the
> problem, have provide this message.
>
> Brian
>
> --- On Mon, 11/9/09, kartracer12001 <John-Ferreira@...> wrote:
>
> From: kartracer12001 <John-Ferreira@...>
> Subject: [VW-TDI] Re: intermittent turbo failure 96 passat tdi
> To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, November 9, 2009, 9:46 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> My 96 does the same thing... (250,000 miles)
>
> I replaced the hose that went from the manifold to the computer. (You can
> find the computer tucked in with the wiper arm assembly, under the "brittle"
> plastic that you have to remove on the passenger side.
>
> It still does it. It does it when you pull hard and long. Especially over
> 3000 rpm, going up a hill, going through the hears. You know when it happens
> because it lays over and the gas peddle gives little response. And, yes,
> off/on restart does the trick.
>
>
>
> Dying to know what it is...
>
>
>
> John
>
> --- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups. com, "shockts" <shockts@... > wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Howdy all,
>
> > My old trusty 96 passat wagon w/ 204K on it has an intermittent turbo
> failure.  Always works when cold but goes out once underway.  If I pull
> over, shut the car down and restart, turbo is back for a while.  Obviously
> it's working when it works but something is causing it to go out.  Any
> thoughts?
>
> >
>
> > Thanks much,
>
> > tom in WI
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

John,

Your intermittent issue "when you pull hard and long. Especially over 3000"
causing the engine to go into limp mode is exactly what happened to me.  The
fix was straight forward in the end, but I do not see anyone else ever
mentioning this. 

I have a 2003 Golf TDI.  My vnt actuator failed and I replaced it.  The
actuator has a rod that connects to the vnt on the turbo.  When boost is needed
the actuator pulls the rod down such that the vnts in the turbo move to speed up
the generation of boost. 

When I replaced the actuator, the length of the rod was too short.  Thus, the
turbo tended to over boost because the actuator was always positioning the vnt
in a more aggressive position.  The connection of the rod to the vnt on the
turbo can be adjusted.  It is a threaded rod with nuts connecting it to the
vnt.

By trial and error, you can adjust the effective length of the rod until the
limp mode never happens and you still get a timely response by the turbo. 

Since you replaced the vacuum line to solve the primary issue, was the actuator
adjusted when the vacuum line was in early stage of failure?  Or could
something have hit the rod to produce a small bend that would effectively
shorten it? 

Regardless, this worked for me but I don't see anyone else in this group or
tdiclub.com discussing it.  When I do occasionally see someone having the
problem, have provide this message.

Brian

--- On Mon, 11/9/09, kartracer12001 <John-Ferreira@...> wrote:

From: kartracer12001 <John-Ferreira@...>
Subject: [VW-TDI] Re: intermittent turbo failure 96 passat tdi
To: VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 9, 2009, 9:46 AM







 











My 96 does the same thing... (250,000 miles)

I replaced the hose that went from the manifold to the computer. (You can find
the computer tucked in with the wiper arm assembly, under the "brittle" plastic
that you have to remove on the passenger side.

It still does it. It does it when you pull hard and long. Especially over 3000
rpm, going up a hill, going through the hears. You know when it happens because
it lays over and the gas peddle gives little response. And, yes, off/on restart
does the trick.



Dying to know what it is...



John

--- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups. com, "shockts" <shockts@... > wrote:

>

> Howdy all,

> My old trusty 96 passat wagon w/ 204K on it has an intermittent turbo failure.
Always works when cold but goes out once underway.  If I pull over, shut the car
down and restart, turbo is back for a while.  Obviously it's working when it
works but something is causing it to go out.  Any thoughts?

>

> Thanks much,

> tom in WI

>

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kennon - I'd love to hear the 'reasoning' behind your recommendations.

John/Tom - There's actually a small length of tube *inside* the ECU, which
can suffer from the same leakage problems and may need attention.

Are you guys getting a check-engine light or no?  If so what's the code?

If you hook up a Vagcom and log the actual vs requested boost during a long
hillclimb, it should give you an idea what is causing the ECU to go into
limp mode.

On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 7:46 AM, kartracer12001 <John-Ferreira@...>wrote:

>
> My 96 does the same thing... (250,000 miles)
> I replaced the hose that went from the manifold to the computer. (You can
> find the computer tucked in with the wiper arm assembly, under the "brittle"
> plastic that you have to remove on the passenger side.
> It still does it. It does it when you pull hard and long. Especially over
> 3000 rpm, going up a hill, going through the hears. You know when it happens
> because it lays over and the gas peddle gives little response. And, yes,
> off/on restart does the trick.
>
> Dying to know what it is...
>
> John
> --- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com, "shockts" <shockts@...> wrote:
> >
> > Howdy all,
> > My old trusty 96 passat wagon w/ 204K on it has an intermittent turbo
> failure.  Always works when cold but goes out once underway.  If I pull
> over, shut the car down and restart, turbo is back for a while.  Obviously
> it's working when it works but something is causing it to go out.  Any
> thoughts?
> >
> > Thanks much,
> > tom in WI
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My 96 does the same thing... (250,000 miles)
I replaced the hose that went from the manifold to the computer. (You can find
the computer tucked in with the wiper arm assembly, under the "brittle" plastic
that you have to remove on the passenger side.
It still does it. It does it when you pull hard and long. Especially over 3000
rpm, going up a hill, going through the hears. You know when it happens because
it lays over and the gas peddle gives little response. And, yes, off/on restart
does the trick.

Dying to know what it is...

John
--- In VW-TDI@yahoogroups.com, "shockts" <shockts@...> wrote:
>
> Howdy all,
> My old trusty 96 passat wagon w/ 204K on it has an intermittent turbo failure.
Always works when cold but goes out once underway.  If I pull over, shut the car
down and restart, turbo is back for a while.  Obviously it's working when it
works but something is causing it to go out.  Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks much,
> tom in WI
>

First thought is new 2009 Passat Wagon/ TDI , #2 new turbo, #3 rebuild
turbo with repair Kit ,#4 salvage turbo-------and so on!      there is
not a quick fix!







On Nov 8, 2009, at 7:08 PM, shockts wrote:

> Howdy all,
> My old trusty 96 passat wagon w/ 204K on it has an intermittent
> turbo failure. Always works when cold but goes out once underway. If
> I pull over, shut the car down and restart, turbo is back for a
> while. Obviously it's working when it works but something is causing
> it to go out. Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks much,
> tom in WI
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Oops it's usually called "limp mode"... although I think it should give you
a check engine light.  Autozone will read the code for free if you don't
have a scan tool.

Here's a good page about troubleshooting it:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/multi/limpmodetdi.htm

<http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_how_to/multi/limpmodetdi.htm>Good luck!

On Sun, Nov 8, 2009 at 5:32 PM, Tad <tadc@...> wrote:

> If it comes back with a restart, it's probably the computer going into
> 'safe mode'.  Either over or underboosting, or the computer thinks it is due
> to a sensor issue.
>
> I believe the 96 Passat has the manifold pressure sensor in the ECU itself,
> connected with a long 'vacuum' hose that gets brittle with age and leaks,
> resulting in the exact symptoms you describe.  That's probably the easiest
> thing to check.
>
> On Sun, Nov 8, 2009 at 5:08 PM, shockts <shockts@...> wrote:
>
>> Howdy all,
>> My old trusty 96 passat wagon w/ 204K on it has an intermittent turbo
>> failure.  Always works when cold but goes out once underway.  If I pull
>> over, shut the car down and restart, turbo is back for a while.  Obviously
>> it's working when it works but something is causing it to go out.  Any
>> thoughts?
>>
>> Thanks much,
>> tom in WI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]