Got the 500 up & running last week, but now I've noticed it won't idle faster with the choke open. In fact, opening the choke lever usually won't let it start at all...usually I have to give it gas manually until it warms up. I can mess with the idle screw and have it idle faster, but then once it warms up I have to turn the screw back down in order to have it idle/run @ 1300 or so. That screw is supposed to be a set it & forget it kinda thing...I shouldn't have to touch it every morning when I go to start it up in order to get the idle revs up when the choke is open.
I checked the idle lever on the carbs, and the wire is threaded thru fine and the cable is held by the small screw as far back as the cable will allow and still hold it.
Once it's warm it runs/idles fine @ 1300, or wherever I set it.
Thought maybe you guys might have an idea where to start looking/thinking...could a true carb synch (instead of the bench synch it now has) fix this?
Got the 500 up & running last week, but now I've noticed it won't idle faster with the choke open. In fact, opening the choke lever usually won't let it start at all...usually I have to give it gas manually until it warms up. I can mess with the idle screw and have it idle faster, but then once it warms up I have to turn the screw back down in order to have it idle/run @ 1300 or so. That screw is supposed to be a set it & forget it kinda thing...I shouldn't have to touch it every morning when I go to start it up in order to get the idle revs up when the choke is open.
I checked the idle lever on the carbs, and the wire is threaded thru fine and the cable is held by the small screw as far back as the cable will allow and still hold it.
Once it's warm it runs/idles fine @ 1300, or wherever I set it.
Thought maybe you guys might have an idea where to start looking/thinking...could a true carb synch (instead of the bench synch it now has) fix this?
--- In VF500F@yahoogroups.com, "Scott" <sscheffing@...> wrote:
>
> Well, out comes the engine to replace the head gaskets. I have a repair
manual that I will be following but any DIY tips or experiences would be
helpful. No longer see the head gaskets available on Bike Bandit--any advice
other than local Honda dealer? Enjoy your turkeys!
>
The head gaskets are NLA from Honda and unfortunately are a bit tough to find.
There are several companies that make aftermarket options though.
I've noted a few in our Database.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/VF500F/database?method=reportRows&tbl=5
Hope this is of help!
Well, out comes the engine to replace the head gaskets. I have a repair manual
that I will be following but any DIY tips or experiences would be helpful. No
longer see the head gaskets available on Bike Bandit--any advice other than
local Honda dealer? Enjoy your turkeys!
A bike does not develop a timing problem after sitting a while. Trust me, you described the classic gummy carb symptoms almost perfectly. You might get away with gas additive but if I were you, I'd clean the jets. If you are anywhere near WPB, FL I'll do it for ya. $500 is absolutely highway robbery.
FWIW... My dad had rigged a tire pressure valve stem
to a radiator cap for testing radiators after he soldered
them. This may be of some use. So might a basketball
or hand pump, to help avoid over pressuring, and a gauge
for low pressure. maybe a reason to finally buy one for
front shocks for a modern bike, or your kid's basketball.
In a message dated 11/18/09 5:20:43 AM, sirepair@... writes:
Try a 2nd layer of heat shrink tubing.....
If you grind and replace the seal, use some JB Weld or the likes to hold the new seal in place. Make sure the surface area around the seal is free of paint and oil and use the JB Weld to recreate the retaining lip.
Ohhhhhh! I was thinking JB Weld AROUND the outside diameter of the seal, and trying to figure out how it held that way once it slid back in. I like your way of thinking! Any danger of the seal falling back INSIDE the engine if it's not held tight?
2nd layer of heat shrink: coming right up! I guess the idea here is just to compress/tighten that seal rubber until it holds tight.
Subject: [VF500F] Re: water and oil---uhhh...together
Further review(and a cooling system test) indicates that the cooling system does maintain 15lbs of pressure for almost fifteen seconds, (engine cold). My manual indicates holding pressure for six seconds is a "pass."
So, bike runs very good, plugs look very good, passes cooling pressure test. But I still have water in oil.
I guess my next step will be to pressurize each cylinder and see if I can get bubbles into radiator. Has anyone devised a test for the water pump? Do not see any signs of external water leakage at pump housing. Thanks.
--- In VF500F@yahoogroups.com, Noël Auger <noel.auger@...> wrote: > > Scott, > > Since the engine overheated, it could be one of the head gaskets, rather than the water pump. > A cooling system pressure test should bring you some more data. > Please tell us what comes next. > Noël > P.S. Could be a stuck thermostat (primary cause) ... > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Scott > To: VF500F@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 3:14 AM > Subject: [VF500F] water and oil---uhhh...together > > > > Just brought home a new (to me) VF. Owner did tell me that on his last oil change, shop indicated there was water in the oil. After starting and riding around, temp went up--way up. Switch for cooling fan was not operating, so it seems clear that he cooked it. > > When I had it running it was smoking so there is some water seemingly getting in the cylinders, but it really does run crisp. Spark plugs all look very nice--no clear clue here. > > Have not done a cylindeer leak down test yet, or a cooling system test yet. Have heard from a pal that the water pump can fail and introduce water into the engine. Could too high a coolant temp./pressure challenge the seals of an old water pump? > > Looks like the head gaskets are N/A from Honda, nor are available on Bike Bandit. > > Any clues, comments or help would be appreciated. thanks, scott >
If you grind and replace the seal, use some JB Weld or the likes to hold the new seal in place. Make sure the surface area around the seal is free of paint and oil and use the JB Weld to recreate the retaining lip.
Put the just-soaked carbs back on the 85 model just now, and all seems right with the VF500 world for once. Runs. Idles. Moves in a forward direction under it's own power. No longer slow on the uptake with the gas, and no longer slow to fall back to normal RPMs. It's been bench-synched, so I'd still like to fine synch it on the sticks later this week after I put some miles on it. These will be my first miles on it at all after working on it for 3+ weeks.
Alas, all is not perfect. I had some oil leaking, which I thought was the head cover gaskets. Fixed them, and then thought it was from the clutch pushrod seal per Pat. Tried the heat shrink method, and apparently it's still leaking from there (oil only on the collector part of the header on the left side right near the kickstand.)
I bought the Honda replacement seal for the pushrod, but all the tech could advise me to do was split the cases to install it, same as Jamie. Excellent advice, but I'm not up for jumping in on that with only 13K on the clock for such a small repair if I can help it yet.
Here's my question: If you've done the "grind & install seal from the outside" trick could you give me some tips? Specifically the grinding and how you keep the seal in it's place after the lip is gone. Oh...and if it fixed the leak after all was said & done? Maybe there's another way to seal/tighten the old seal without doing the R&R?
Subject: [VF500F] Re: water and oil---uhhh...together
Further review(and a cooling system test) indicates that the cooling system does maintain 15lbs of pressure for almost fifteen seconds, (engine cold). My manual indicates holding pressure for six seconds is a "pass."
So, bike runs very good, plugs look very good, passes cooling pressure test. But I still have water in oil.
I guess my next step will be to pressurize each cylinder and see if I can get bubbles into radiator. Has anyone devised a test for the water pump? Do not see any signs of external water leakage at pump housing. Thanks.
--- In VF500F@yahoogroups.com, Noël Auger <noel.auger@...> wrote: > > Scott, > > Since the engine overheated, it could be one of the head gaskets, rather than the water pump. > A cooling system pressure test should bring you some more data. > Please tell us what comes next. > Noël > P.S. Could be a stuck thermostat (primary cause) ... > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Scott > To: VF500F@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 3:14 AM > Subject: [VF500F] water and oil---uhhh...together > > > > Just brought home a new (to me) VF. Owner did tell me that on his last oil change, shop indicated there was water in the oil. After starting and riding around, temp went up--way up. Switch for cooling fan was not operating, so it seems clear that he cooked it. > > When I had it running it was smoking so there is some water seemingly getting in the cylinders, but it really does run crisp. Spark plugs all look very nice--no clear clue here. > > Have not done a cylindeer leak down test yet, or a cooling system test yet. Have heard from a pal that the water pump can fail and introduce water into the engine. Could too high a coolant temp./pressure challenge the seals of an old water pump? > > Looks like the head gaskets are N/A from Honda, nor are available on Bike Bandit. > > Any clues, comments or help would be appreciated. thanks, scott >
Further review(and a cooling system test) indicates that the cooling system does
maintain 15lbs of pressure for almost fifteen seconds, (engine cold). My manual
indicates holding pressure for six seconds is a "pass."
So, bike runs very good, plugs look very good, passes cooling pressure test. But
I still have water in oil.
I guess my next step will be to pressurize each cylinder and see if I can get
bubbles into radiator. Has anyone devised a test for the water pump? Do not see
any signs of external water leakage at pump housing.
Thanks.
--- In VF500F@yahoogroups.com, Noël Auger <noel.auger@...> wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> Since the engine overheated, it could be one of the head gaskets, rather than
the water pump.
> A cooling system pressure test should bring you some more data.
> Please tell us what comes next.
> Noël
> P.S. Could be a stuck thermostat (primary cause) ...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott
> To: VF500F@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 3:14 AM
> Subject: [VF500F] water and oil---uhhh...together
>
>
>
> Just brought home a new (to me) VF. Owner did tell me that on his last oil
change, shop indicated there was water in the oil. After starting and riding
around, temp went up--way up. Switch for cooling fan was not operating, so it
seems clear that he cooked it.
>
> When I had it running it was smoking so there is some water seemingly
getting in the cylinders, but it really does run crisp. Spark plugs all look
very nice--no clear clue here.
>
> Have not done a cylindeer leak down test yet, or a cooling system test yet.
Have heard from a pal that the water pump can fail and introduce water into the
engine. Could too high a coolant temp./pressure challenge the seals of an old
water pump?
>
> Looks like the head gaskets are N/A from Honda, nor are available on Bike
Bandit.
>
> Any clues, comments or help would be appreciated. thanks, scott
>
Put the just-soaked carbs back on the 85 model just now, and all seems right with the VF500 world for once. Runs. Idles. Moves in a forward direction under it's own power. No longer slow on the uptake with the gas, and no longer slow to fall back to normal RPMs. It's been bench-synched, so I'd still like to fine synch it on the sticks later this week after I put some miles on it. These will be my first miles on it at all after working on it for 3+ weeks.
Alas, all is not perfect. I had some oil leaking, which I thought was the head cover gaskets. Fixed them, and then thought it was from the clutch pushrod seal per Pat. Tried the heat shrink method, and apparently it's still leaking from there (oil only on the collector part of the header on the left side right near the kickstand.)
I bought the Honda replacement seal for the pushrod, but all the tech could advise me to do was split the cases to install it, same as Jamie. Excellent advice, but I'm not up for jumping in on that with only 13K on the clock for such a small repair if I can help it yet.
Here's my question: If you've done the "grind & install seal from the outside" trick could you give me some tips? Specifically the grinding and how you keep the seal in it's place after the lip is gone. Oh...and if it fixed the leak after all was said & done? Maybe there's another way to seal/tighten the old seal without doing the R&R?
Just brought home a new (to me) VF. Owner did tell me that on his last oil change, shop indicated there was water in the oil. After starting and riding around, temp went up--way up. Switch for cooling fan was not operating, so it seems clear that he cooked it.
When I had it running it was smoking so there is some water seemingly getting in the cylinders, but it really does run crisp. Spark plugs all look very nice--no clear clue here.
Have not done a cylindeer leak down test yet, or a cooling system test yet. Have heard from a pal that the water pump can fail and introduce water into the engine. Could too high a coolant temp./pressure challenge the seals of an old water pump?
Looks like the head gaskets are N/A from Honda, nor are available on Bike Bandit.
Any clues, comments or help would be appreciated. thanks, scott
From the symptoms, it looks like what happened to mine.
I would think "needle jets" (aka "main jets holders").
The tiny radial holes in there could be clogged.
Please note that is only a theory of my own, built from the fact that the more I rode the bike, the best it was (idle, return to idle, no more stalling at stops, ... ).
BTW, for a long stop/storage, the carbs' bowls should be emptied by idling the engine witn the fuel tap off until the engine dies starved so the bowls are about empty and there would be no deposits from fuel remains.
--- In VF500F@yahoogroups.com, "giulakian" <giulakian@...> wrote: > > Hi everyone, I'm new here. I have an 86 model and want to do a carb service on my own by removing the carbs and soaking them in a solution overnight. The quote I got from the bike shop was around $500. How long does it take to get the carbs off the bike? How difficult is it? I just have my Craftsman automotive tools and a car ramp to work with. Thanks! >
Pat: thanks.
Noel: the bike sat in storage for six months and, after leaving storage, has been used daily for the past three months. The symptoms are not as bad as they were just after the bike left storage, but are still kind of there: hard to start sometimes, engine dies sometimes at stoplights, and the bike seems underpowered overall. I'm thinking it might be a timing problem instead.
If it your first time and the carbs have have never been off or havent been off for some time get ready for some frustration and some foul language. I just did my 85 this spring. Took me 3 hours, but because of my inexperience by the 5 time i took them off and put them on i got it down to 30 minutes. But that is just getting them on the bench. Good luck it will be a learning experience, just do and enjoy. I would suggest having them ultrasonically cleaned, those idle circuits are REAL small. Float levels are critical. I still have a flat spot around 6500, gets through it pretty quick. Just do it and enjoy.
Just brought home a new (to me) VF. Owner did tell me that on his last oil
change, shop indicated there was water in the oil. After starting and riding
around, temp went up--way up. Switch for cooling fan was not operating, so it
seems clear that he cooked it.
When I had it running it was smoking so there is some water seemingly getting in
the cylinders, but it really does run crisp. Spark plugs all look very nice--no
clear clue here.
Have not done a cylindeer leak down test yet, or a cooling system test yet.
Have heard from a pal that the water pump can fail and introduce water into the
engine. Could too high a coolant temp./pressure challenge the seals of an old
water pump?
Looks like the head gaskets are N/A from Honda, nor are available on Bike
Bandit.
Any clues, comments or help would be appreciated. thanks, scott
--- In VF500F@yahoogroups.com, "giulakian" <giulakian@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone, I'm new here. I have an 86 model and want to do a carb service on
my own by removing the carbs and soaking them in a solution overnight. The quote
I got from the bike shop was around $500. How long does it take to get the carbs
off the bike? How difficult is it? I just have my Craftsman automotive tools and
a car ramp to work with. Thanks!
>
Pat: thanks.
Noel: the bike sat in storage for six months and, after leaving storage, has
been used daily for the past three months. The symptoms are not as bad as they
were just after the bike left storage, but are still kind of there: hard to
start sometimes, engine dies sometimes at stoplights, and the bike seems
underpowered overall. I'm thinking it might be a timing problem instead.
Great post, definitely one for the highlight reel!
Jon H
From: Patrick O'Bryant <sirepair@...> To: VF500F@yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, November 16, 2009 10:06:56 AM Subject: Re: [VF500F] Servicing Carbs
I would suggest that you get a Honda service manual, if possible, or at least a Clymer manual to start with.
To remove the carbs: Remove upper faring, seat, side panels, fuel tank, air box cover, air filter and then air box. Drink beer.
Loosen all 8 carb boot clamps. Using a screwdriver or the likes, attempt to work the carb assy off of the engine. Apply liberal amounts of cursing as necessary. Drink another beer.
Put band-aid on busted knuckle. Pry some more. Drink another beer.
Throw away cheap screwdriver that is now bent to hell. Find big-honkin pry bar and pry some more. Put band-aid
on 2nd busted knuckle. Send wife out for more beer.
Put compress on fore head that is bleeding from being hit by pry bar when carb assy "popped" off. Remove throttle cables and choke
cable. Drink another beer and take some tylenol.
Hopefully it will go easier than this!!
Unless absolutely necessary, LEAVE THE CARB BODIES MOUNTED ON THE PLATE! You can remove the bowls, floats, jets, slides, etc all while the bodies are on the plate. There are several small springs and stuff in the linkage and a few o-rings on the fuel pipes that are easily lost/damaged if the bodies are removed.
Cleaning the carbs is as with any other carb. Attention to detail is necessary.
Inspect the carb boots (isolators?) and note that there is a top and bottom and proper "clocking" position for the boots.
When re-installing the carbs, I've found that by placing the boots in some hot water just prior to installation will help soften the rubber. You also may want to use some type of lube (silicone spray) to make installation easier.
IIRC I put 2 of the carb boots on the rear carbs, the other 2
on the front cylinders then work like above until the carbs have been returned to their rightful homes.
DON'T FORGET TO REATTACH THE CABLES *BEFORE* PUTTING THE CARBS BACK ON (DAMHIK!!)
Hope this helps! Pat O'Bryant
--- On Sun, 11/15/09, giulakian <giulakian@yahoo. com> wrote:
From: giulakian <giulakian@yahoo. com> Subject: [VF500F] Servicing Carbs To: VF500F@yahoogroups. com Date: Sunday, November 15, 2009, 7:34 PM
Hi everyone, I'm new here. I have an 86 model and want to do a carb service on my own by removing the carbs and soaking them in a solution overnight. The quote I got from the bike shop was around $500. How long does it take to get the carbs off the bike? How difficult is it? I just have my Craftsman automotive tools and a car ramp to work with. Thanks!
__________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
I would suggest that you get a Honda service manual, if possible, or at least a Clymer manual to start with.
To remove the carbs: Remove upper faring, seat, side panels, fuel tank, air box cover, air filter and then air box. Drink beer.
Loosen all 8 carb boot clamps. Using a screwdriver or the likes, attempt to work the carb assy off of the engine. Apply liberal amounts of cursing as necessary. Drink another beer.
Put band-aid on busted knuckle. Pry some more. Drink another beer.
Throw away cheap screwdriver that is now bent to hell. Find big-honkin pry bar and pry some more. Put band-aid on 2nd busted knuckle. Send wife out for more beer.
Put compress on fore head that is bleeding from being hit by pry bar when carb assy "popped" off. Remove throttle cables and choke cable. Drink another beer and take some tylenol.
Hopefully it will go easier than this!!
Unless absolutely necessary, LEAVE THE CARB BODIES MOUNTED ON THE PLATE! You can remove the bowls, floats, jets, slides, etc all while the bodies are on the plate. There are several small springs and stuff in the linkage and a few o-rings on the fuel pipes that are easily lost/damaged if the bodies are removed.
Cleaning the carbs is as with any other carb. Attention to detail is necessary.
Inspect the carb boots (isolators?) and note that there is a top and bottom and proper "clocking" position for the boots.
When re-installing the carbs, I've found that by placing the boots in some hot water just prior to installation will help soften the rubber. You also may want to use some type of lube (silicone spray) to make installation easier.
IIRC I put 2 of the carb boots on the rear carbs, the other 2 on the front cylinders then work like above until the carbs have been returned to their rightful homes.
DON'T FORGET TO REATTACH THE CABLES *BEFORE* PUTTING THE CARBS BACK ON (DAMHIK!!)
Hope this helps! Pat O'Bryant
--- On Sun, 11/15/09, giulakian <giulakian@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: giulakian <giulakian@yahoo.com> Subject: [VF500F] Servicing Carbs To: VF500F@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, November 15, 2009, 7:34 PM
Hi everyone, I'm new here. I have an 86 model and want to do a carb service on my own by removing the carbs and soaking them in a solution overnight. The quote I got from the bike shop was around $500. How long does it take to get the carbs off the bike? How difficult is it? I just have my Craftsman automotive tools and a car ramp to work with. Thanks!
I would suggest that you get a Honda service manual, if possible, or at least a Clymer manual to start with.
To remove the carbs: Remove upper faring, seat, side panels, fuel tank, air box cover, air filter and then air box. Drink beer.
Loosen all 8 carb boot clamps. Using a screwdriver or the likes, attempt to work the carb assy off of the engine. Apply liberal amounts of cursing as necessary. Drink another beer.
Put band-aid on busted knuckle. Pry some more. Drink another beer.
Throw away cheap screwdriver that is now bent to hell. Find big-honkin pry bar and pry some more. Put band-aid on 2nd busted knuckle. Send wife out for more beer.
Put compress on fore head that is bleeding from being hit by pry bar when carb assy "popped" off. Remove throttle cables and choke
cable. Drink another beer and take some tylenol.
Hopefully it will go easier than this!!
Unless absolutely necessary, LEAVE THE CARB BODIES MOUNTED ON THE PLATE! You can remove the bowls, floats, jets, slides, etc all while the bodies are on the plate. There are several small springs and stuff in the linkage and a few o-rings on the fuel pipes that are easily lost/damaged if the bodies are removed.
Cleaning the carbs is as with any other carb. Attention to detail is necessary.
Inspect the carb boots (isolators?) and note that there is a top and bottom and proper "clocking" position for the boots.
When re-installing the carbs, I've found that by placing the boots in some hot water just prior to installation will help soften the rubber. You also may want to use some type of lube (silicone spray) to make installation easier.
IIRC I put 2 of the carb boots on the rear carbs, the other 2
on the front cylinders then work like above until the carbs have been returned to their rightful homes.
DON'T FORGET TO REATTACH THE CABLES *BEFORE* PUTTING THE CARBS BACK ON (DAMHIK!!)
Hope this helps! Pat O'Bryant
--- On Sun, 11/15/09, giulakian <giulakian@...> wrote:
From: giulakian <giulakian@...> Subject: [VF500F] Servicing Carbs To: VF500F@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, November 15, 2009, 7:34 PM
Hi everyone, I'm new here. I have an 86 model and want to do a carb service on my own by removing the carbs and soaking them in a solution overnight. The quote I got from the bike shop was around $500. How long does it take to get the carbs off the bike? How difficult is it? I just have my Craftsman automotive tools and a car ramp to work with. Thanks!
Hi everyone, I'm new here. I have an 86 model and want to do a carb service on
my own by removing the carbs and soaking them in a solution overnight. The quote
I got from the bike shop was around $500. How long does it take to get the carbs
off the bike? How difficult is it? I just have my Craftsman automotive tools and
a car ramp to work with. Thanks!
Hi All,
Anyone out there have a spare rear wheel hub (a.k.a. final driven flange
42610-KE7-000) for a VF500F that is taking up too much room on the workbench or
in the parts bin - that you would be willing to part with?
Many thanks!
ni noel, for ref. are you coming up with 19mm from the machined part of the swingarm (below the chain adjuster) to the face of the sprocket + 7mm for the thickness of the sprocket = 26mm to the mounting face? many thx!
From: Noël Auger <noel.auger@...> To: VF500F@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sun, November 8, 2009 11:28:57 AM Subject: Re: [VF500F] dimension check

Sorry for the late answer.
Been out for Saturday and Sunday.
That's hard to say, since the sprocket is on the wheel.
What I can tell is that the sprocket is 7 mm thick.