Thanks for your reply LDW.

Unfortunately, in the UK, lights must show steady.

I can see the Indicator Relay up behind the headlamps. I am being a lazy A not
wishing to fetch off the fairing and put it all back again just to read a number
off the side of the Indicator Relay (assuming there is a number).

I agree Tony! If the low speed air mix was correct before it tipped
over why would it not still be correct. We are talking about a "tip over"
not a major crash here. I'd look for something simple that could have been
dislodged easily like the side stand switch or the clutch switch. I bought a
new battery because I thought I had a low voltage problem and it turned out
that the connector to the clutch switch was not replaced correctly after I
cleaned the contacts! DOH!
MY BAD!

Ed J.
2001 Triumph Trophy 1200
Indian Harbour Beach, FL 32937
Cell - 321/795-4387

-----Original Message-----
From: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Tony
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 8:14 PM
To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: STRANGE PROBLEM AFTER TIP OVER........

I think that people have lost sight of the original post in which it said
"intermittent cut out" not misfire.   This is electrical and sounds
identical to my cutting out problem, which turned out to be a dirty kill
switch.   In this case, however, it could be any of the electrical
connections or components that form the 'ground' line to the ignition
module.  The quick solution to prove this, as I found on mine, was to pull
up the connection that has the little loopback on it, where the optional
alarm would fit.  Connect a suitable wire between the wire on the igniter
side of the connector and the battery negative terminal.   Start the bike
and see if it still has the intermittent cut out.   If it doesn't, then you
know for sure that somewhere along that circuit that provides that ground
signal to the igniter module there is either a broken device or dislodged
connection.  You can use the wire trick to short out each of the components
in that loop to eliminate each one at a time.
I did upload a drawing some time back, that I did of the complete ignition
circuit, but can't find the link to it. However, you should be able to trace
it through if you have a Haynes Manual, except their drawing is far more
complex than mine was.

Tony
Chelmsford, UK

Tony:

My guess is electrical (as Ed suggested),  a missing or split vac cap, boot, or
a line. Nothing internal to a carb.

Bob Clark

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi all, can anyone help me with this. Both my low beams went out at the same
time I'm assuming its a relay not a bulb problem. Is that correct? Also one of
my lenses has a fog or film on the inside, can I get the lens out or off to
clean the inside,is there a vapor seal that's been comprmised? If so how do I
fix it? Also several post's in the past have mentioned the vacume line to
petcock coming off #3carb. mine comes of of #1,bike runs great should I change
it?(If it's not broke don't fix it comes to mind) Thanks in advance.
Scott Haley
Saint Augustine Fl.
'03 BBBB

Hi Scott, Yes, it is a relay. There are 3 relays clustered to the left and below
the speedometer. The 5 prong relay runs both high and low beams. One 4 prong
relay runs the low beams, and the other 4 prong relay runs the high beam. The
number for the 4 prong is: 4RA 003 510-08 some are made in Spain some made in
Germany. If you can, mount the relays with the prongs facing down.
You will have to remove the left side fairing to get at the relays. They are
tightened down with one 7mm hex head screw. Take the 4 prong relay to an auto
parts store.  They can matched a relay much cheaper than what Triumph will
charge.
I don't know about the fogged lens.
Having the petcock vacuum run off of carb #1 is fine. They are all the same.
Greg Andrews

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "haleys55" <scotthaley623@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all, can anyone help me with this. Both my low beams went out at the same
time I'm assuming its a relay not a bulb problem. Is that correct? Also one of
my lenses has a fog or film on the inside, can I get the lens out or off to
clean the inside,is there a vapor seal that's been comprmised? If so how do I
fix it? Also several post's in the past have mentioned the vacume line to
petcock coming off #3carb. mine comes of of #1,bike runs great should I change
it?(If it's not broke don't fix it comes to mind) Thanks in advance.
> Scott Haley
> Saint Augustine Fl.
> '03 BBBB
>

Hiya Scott and Greg,

Yes the double light lens unscrews from the rear of the unit. I had one crack
with a stone and just replaced the lens that I bought from flea bay. I recall I
had to take the whole front fairing off to do this though.

HTH
BOAT 96 BBBB Merlot Red. SCOTLAND

From: Greg
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 4:53 PM
To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Headlight issues


Hi Scott, Yes, it is a relay. There are 3 relays clustered to the left and below
the speedometer. The 5 prong relay runs both high and low beams. One 4 prong
relay runs the low beams, and the other 4 prong relay runs the high beam. The
number for the 4 prong is: 4RA 003 510-08 some are made in Spain some made in
Germany. If you can, mount the relays with the prongs facing down.
You will have to remove the left side fairing to get at the relays. They are
tightened down with one 7mm hex head screw. Take the 4 prong relay to an auto
parts store. They can matched a relay much cheaper than what Triumph will
charge.
I don't know about the fogged lens.
Having the petcock vacuum run off of carb #1 is fine. They are all the same.
Greg Andrews

--- In mailto:TriumphTrophy%40yahoogroups.com, "haleys55" <scotthaley623@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi all, can anyone help me with this. Both my low beams went out at the same
time I'm assuming its a relay not a bulb problem. Is that correct? Also one of
my lenses has a fog or film on the inside, can I get the lens out or off to
clean the inside,is there a vapor seal that's been comprmised? If so how do I
fix it? Also several post's in the past have mentioned the vacume line to
petcock coming off #3carb. mine comes of of #1,bike runs great should I change
it?(If it's not broke don't fix it comes to mind) Thanks in advance.
> Scott Haley
> Saint Augustine Fl.
> '03 BBBB
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Steve, The relay you need to after is located below and between the head
lights. There are two relays located there. The top one is a 4 prong, I think it
runs the heated grips??? The lower one is a 3 prong, that's the one that runs
the left and right blinkers. I replaced mine years ago with a relay from Kisan.
It lets you set how many flashes before it stops.
I found that coming in from the right side worked better. You might be able to
get after it from below, nope the headlight fairing frame is in the way.
Greg Andrews


"stevec1200brg"  wrote:
which Indicator Relay is fitted to my Y2K 1200 trophy?
I am about to order a replacement from
http://www.turnalarm.com/
A loud bleeping indicator noise might pause a Pedestrian at the kerb.
Thank in advance
Steve C

Pending receipt of payment, looks like the seat is sold!  Thanks everyone
for the interest!

There was one person that contacted me, user name:

francois YAHOO

that I tried to reply back to, but the email message came back saying the
address was not valid.  Sorry about that Francois.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "JimB" <trophyfour@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all:
> Tipped the 02 Trophy 1200 over at a dead stop a few weeks back (foot or pant
leg got caught on something and couldn't free it up quick enough). Faring got a
small crack by the mounting bolt hole and my foot was caught under the peg area,
however.....the bike developed a strange, very intermittent, cutting out at low
speed (one good "hiccup") or a stall with the clutch pulled in or neutral. The
dealer checked it high and low, got it to do it only once and tried richening
the carbs a bit and was quite sure that the problem was solved. Rode it home
and, you guessed it, a stall and later a low speed cut-out. Can anybody think of
what a tip-over could do that would cause this?? Very weird.......
>            Thanks in advance for any help:  Jim
>
Thanks all for the replies. I've tried checking the sidestand and clutch
switches with if running in gear, and there was no way to make it cut out. I'm
ruling out water in the carbs because it's covered some miles since it was
tipped and it runs beautifully on the highway. I've got to ride it a bit and
keep note of just where and when it does it, I guess. If anyone has any more
ideas, I'll be very happy to try them out.
              Thanks again to all:  Jim

Low speed hickups - could that correspond to large movements of the handlebars?

Not one ruling out anything.....
A2



--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "JimB" <trophyfour@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "JimB" <trophyfour@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all:
> > Tipped the 02 Trophy 1200 over at a dead stop a few weeks back (foot or pant
leg got caught on something and couldn't free it up quick enough). Faring got a
small crack by the mounting bolt hole and my foot was caught under the peg area,
however.....the bike developed a strange, very intermittent, cutting out at low
speed (one good "hiccup") or a stall with the clutch pulled in or neutral. The
dealer checked it high and low, got it to do it only once and tried richening
the carbs a bit and was quite sure that the problem was solved. Rode it home
and, you guessed it, a stall and later a low speed cut-out. Can anybody think of
what a tip-over could do that would cause this?? Very weird.......
> >            Thanks in advance for any help:  Jim
> >
> Thanks all for the replies. I've tried checking the sidestand and clutch
switches with if running in gear, and there was no way to make it cut out. I'm
ruling out water in the carbs because it's covered some miles since it was
tipped and it runs beautifully on the highway. I've got to ride it a bit and
keep note of just where and when it does it, I guess. If anyone has any more
ideas, I'll be very happy to try them out.
>              Thanks again to all:  Jim
>

has your battery levels dropped?

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "a2 - inoperative emessages" <adeux60@...>
wrote:
>
> Low speed hickups - could that correspond to large movements of the
handlebars?
>
> Not one ruling out anything.....
> A2
>
>
>
> --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "JimB" <trophyfour@> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "JimB" <trophyfour@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello all:
> > > Tipped the 02 Trophy 1200 over at a dead stop a few weeks back (foot or
pant leg got caught on something and couldn't free it up quick enough). Faring
got a small crack by the mounting bolt hole and my foot was caught under the peg
area, however.....the bike developed a strange, very intermittent, cutting out
at low speed (one good "hiccup") or a stall with the clutch pulled in or
neutral. The dealer checked it high and low, got it to do it only once and tried
richening the carbs a bit and was quite sure that the problem was solved. Rode
it home and, you guessed it, a stall and later a low speed cut-out. Can anybody
think of what a tip-over could do that would cause this?? Very weird.......
> > >            Thanks in advance for any help:  Jim
> > >
> > Thanks all for the replies. I've tried checking the sidestand and clutch
switches with if running in gear, and there was no way to make it cut out. I'm
ruling out water in the carbs because it's covered some miles since it was
tipped and it runs beautifully on the highway. I've got to ride it a bit and
keep note of just where and when it does it, I guess. If anyone has any more
ideas, I'll be very happy to try them out.
> >              Thanks again to all:  Jim
> >
>

Hello All and especially Tony and A2,

Well, we (MLT and I) only managed a 12 mile bimble through the lanes around
Stroud, Bisley, Foston's Ash, Slad and back to Stroud following a Carb'
Synchronisation procedure this afternoon but we are very happy to report that
there is now no sign of the 'Coughs & Splutters' OR the low rpm hesitation
caused by fiddling with the Pilot Air Screws during recent Carb' strip and
examine - (no cleaning required).

The weather was really hot and muggy so I didn't go further or very quickly as I
was only wearing a helmet, m'bike jeans, tea-bag jacket and the lightest of
gloves but acceleration, over-run and idling tests were without fault for once -
in a very long time.

The volume of traffic meant that I was able to let the Coolant Temp' indication
rise until the needle was pointing directly 'UP' i.e. Vertical, if you like,
about 2/3rds of the way towards the 'RED' Zone. At which point the Fan came on
for a minute or two, until the indication dipped a bit lower, when it went off
again. Nothing wrong there then.

For those who would prefer a potted history, MLT's Coughs & Splutters case notes
are as follows:-
1) #2 HT Lead Plug Cap Retention Spring in-effective, evidence of micro-arcing
2) Ignition Sensor red wire insulation cracked where it entered Coil Body -
'Signal' shorting to engine case under certain conditions
3) Fuel Tank Overflow/Internal Venting Pipe partially blocked by some organic
matter
4) Fuel Tap Diaphragm worn-out and floppy
5) Kill Switch intermittent/dirty contacts

All of the above are not what you would expect to find on the list of normal
causes but I think it is No.5 that takes the biscuit for me.
I should have thought of it myself but it was a prompt from Tony that got me
thinking. Thanks Mate!

A longer Test Run will be on the cards this weekend, Yippee!

Cheers
Gordon
'92 MkI BBB Oxford Blue (aka My Lady Tracey)
'96 MkII BBB BRG (aka My Lady Sharon)
Stroud, Gloucestershire, U.K.

there is no vapour seal but I dont think you can split them apart either to
clean the silvered face (one of mine is pitted but I couldnt see a quick fix so
have ignored it. I did rinse them out as one did seem to have an oily internal
film. I guess getting the heat of the lights back into it will clear most of it
though.

A2




--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Greg" <gandrews@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Scott, Yes, it is a relay. There are 3 relays clustered to the left and
below the speedometer. The 5 prong relay runs both high and low beams. One 4
prong relay runs the low beams, and the other 4 prong relay runs the high beam.
The number for the 4 prong is: 4RA 003 510-08 some are made in Spain some made
in Germany. If you can, mount the relays with the prongs facing down.
> You will have to remove the left side fairing to get at the relays. They are
tightened down with one 7mm hex head screw. Take the 4 prong relay to an auto
parts store.  They can matched a relay much cheaper than what Triumph will
charge.
> I don't know about the fogged lens.
> Having the petcock vacuum run off of carb #1 is fine. They are all the same.
> Greg Andrews
>
> --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "haleys55" <scotthaley623@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all, can anyone help me with this. Both my low beams went out at the same
time I'm assuming its a relay not a bulb problem. Is that correct? Also one of
my lenses has a fog or film on the inside, can I get the lens out or off to
clean the inside,is there a vapor seal that's been comprmised? If so how do I
fix it? Also several post's in the past have mentioned the vacume line to
petcock coming off #3carb. mine comes of of #1,bike runs great should I change
it?(If it's not broke don't fix it comes to mind) Thanks in advance.
> > Scott Haley
> > Saint Augustine Fl.
> > '03 BBBB
> >
>

talking of water and countersteering......

I will always feel sorry for my mate who was desperate to ride my bike....... So
- dry evening I hand over the keys..... about 20 miles later it starts to rain
right on a long sweeping bend on a dual carriageway - it threw it down and the
car mists up and we can barely see - (I am in the car in front with his Mrs who
can't make up her mind which lane she is in) and I am cringing about my mate
hitting this corner wet at 70mph and his first wet bend ever!!!!! Relief when he
made the bend..... and then stuffed it into the back of his own car WHAM......

Still no worries - he divorced her and we are still mates...(he then bought a
"full on" Ducati and never did tell me how that faired)
A2


--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "slovcan" <slovcan@...> wrote:
>
> A2 - WATERMAN - that is a great name! This water in the fuel thing is
bordering on revelation, especially with the widespread use of ethanol these
days. Keep the reminders coming.
>
> I concur. This is a logical result of a tipover.
>
> One other revelation for a lot of folks when it is brought to their attention
(and they realize they have been doing it all along) is COUNTERSTEERING. A
subject for another thread, though.
>
> Cheers,
> Glenn
>
> --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "a2 - inoperative emessages" <adeux60@>
wrote:
> >
> > Silly to make the carbs richer......For a misfire?!
> >
> > I'm with Ed that you have disturbed something electrical. However before
checking every switch and tying down every connector - just consider that
tipping the bike over might have lifted any water in the tank and into the
carbs. Thus simply release the 4 screws below the carb bowls and let some fuel
run out hopefully dropping any water droplets at the same time.
> > once you have just clean fuel you can be sure of any diagnosis.
> > Waterman
> > A2
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "JimB" <trophyfour@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello all:
> > > Tipped the 02 Trophy 1200 over at a dead stop a few weeks back (foot or
pant leg got caught on something and couldn't free it up quick enough). Faring
got a small crack by the mounting bolt hole and my foot was caught under the peg
area, however.....the bike developed a strange, very intermittent, cutting out
at low speed (one good "hiccup") or a stall with the clutch pulled in or
neutral. The dealer checked it high and low, got it to do it only once and tried
richening the carbs a bit and was quite sure that the problem was solved. Rode
it home and, you guessed it, a stall and later a low speed cut-out. Can anybody
think of what a tip-over could do that would cause this?? Very weird.......
> > >            Thanks in advance for any help:  Jim
> > >
> >
>

Hey Mike,
    I know they had them in the last few years. Try calling them
they're very friendly and helpful. Which is more than I can say for
my final, and absolutely last choice for doing any kind of business
with as they are the biggest assholes I've ever had the misfortune of
coming across I've ever known in the motorcycle industry, with the
possible exception of that steroid laden old fuck at Orange County
Choppers.
     I got my dream bike in 1995. It is a 1200cc BRG Triumph Trophy.
The problem came with the position of the bars being so low and
forward. I tried Glen Mars, and they were a God-send. Any relief was
appreciated. But, with those stock bars, there was only so much to be
done. A couple of years went by, and I was in so much pain. One nite
on the road, I thought of Matt Capri's big Daytona Race bike. I
remembered it had handlebars! He only used a bike for racing and
tuning foe a couple of years, and he knows everybody, so i went to
see him to ask who did that kind of work to build me a conversion,
like the one he had on his '95 racer. He laughed and said, "You ain't
going to believe this, but I had two of those things made so I'd have
a spare for the racer. I was digging around in some old boxes, and
came across the back-up set. He practically gave it to me, and then
gave me a set of what looked like "Ape Hangers" compared to what I
had been used to riding for several years. I had to make up some new
plumbing, but that wasn't a big deal. When I got on it to ride, it
felt so strange. Just like the first time you grabbed onto a pair of
tall bars. these were actually only about six inches taller, which
put about an overall height diff of about 8 inches! It just felt too
weird. I wasn't sure about appexing corners. It felt like I was
hanging off more than I  had ever had to before. As it turned out
within a week or two it all felt perfectly natural. I could hang off
inside and forward, to add more weight bias to the front. Call up
Saeng, and talk to them. If they aren't doing it, they will possibly
put you in touch with the right people. To tell you the truth, I
don't think it would be too hard to use a strong set of "U" bolts,
and make an adapter plate. With the judicious use of a few aluminum
washers (shims), you could easily mount a set of bars onto anything.
Keep looking, they're out there!
   Kindest regards,
     Poppa Jack
On May 30, 2012, at 5:08 PM, Mike Stephenson wrote:

> I found the Saeng web site: http://www.saeng.com/home.php
>
> they show no bar risers.
>
> So the So. Bay Triumph one off customs is not an option...that's
> out...
>
> Storz I tried calling - but did after they closed so emailed.
>
> I emailed Rox - nothing available from them.
>
> Pending hearing back from Storz, looking more and more like Gen Mar. I
> have used their products in past and liked them - though the Storz
> set up
> would allow more options.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Greg Andrews Said; " I don't know about the fogged lens."

I used "Mequiar's Plastx Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish" and cleared the
lens right up. DO NOT USE IT ON THE HEADLIGHT REFECTOR HOWEVER! It will
remove the silver. [You can guess how I know! (;-)] I also used it on my
Honda Civic headlights after wet sanding them with 2000 grit wet or dry with
lots of water. Made them look like new again. Cost me about $10 and the kits
to do this are $40-$60! [Got the tip from a kid working at Advance Discount
Auto.]

Ed J.
2001 Triumph Trophy 1200
Indian Harbour Beach, FL 32937
Cell - 321/795-4387


-----Original Message-----
From: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Greg
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 11:54 AM
To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Headlight issues

Hi Guys, Just got in from a good run out tonight BUT the last 7 miles were done
with the tickover turned up real high as the throttle cable broke. I seem to
remember a post where someone said its a bugger of a job to fit a replacement so
wandered if anyone has any tips to make it easier when i get the new one. Many
thanks in advance Jubba 92 dark blue 1200

Thanks John.

Tony
Chelmsford, UK


--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "John Wilkinson" <davidjohn.wilkinson@...>
wrote:
>
>
> You will get the kit from Sprint Manufacturing.
> Part No 442.
> Is advertised at £28 but I think there is VAT & delivery to go on as I seem to
remember paying around £35 in total.
>
> Good luck.
>
> John.
>
> --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "lovemytrophy" <tony.mitchell51@> wrote:
> >
> > OK, so the next question is, where do I get this kit?  Is it a Triumph
dealer only order, or can I find it on the web somewhere?
> >
> > Tony
> > Chelmsford, UK
> >
> >
> > --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "gordon4046" <gordon.smith29@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Tony & John,
> > >
> > > The Piston in this kit has a seal bonded to the outer circumference and
that's the bit that wears, hence the leak.
> > > But there is also a fitting gasket which sits between the Slave Cylinder
and the Engine Case. This usually comes off undamaged but should be replaced if
damaged or 'soaked' in Hydraulic Oil.
> > >
> > > Cheers Chaps
> > >
> > > Gordon
> > >
> > > --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "John Wilkinson"
<davidjohn.wilkinson@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > You will find that the slave cylinder is actually designed to leak!
> > > > There is a cut out in the bottom to allow fluid to run out in the event
that the piston seal fails - as it appears yours has.
> > > > This is a safeguard to prevent the fluid from pushing past the clutch
operating rod seal and getting into your engine oil.
> > > > This is explained in the Haynes manual.
> > > > As per my previous post (where I mistakenly called it the Master
Cylinder) the solution is a new slave cylinder overhaul kit - consisting of a
seal and a spring - which will set you back £35!
> > > >
> > > > Easy job to do - take off slave cylinder (3 bolts) and pump clutch until
cylinder pops out.
> > > > Replace seal & spring ensuring that seal is the right way round, then
re-fit and bleed the clutch.
> > > > Should be all done in 30 minutes, assuming that the clutch bleeds OK.
> > > >
> > > > Good luck.
> > > >
> > > > John.
> > > >
> > > > --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "lovemytrophy" <tony.mitchell51@>
wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes, Gordon, I had understood that.   The bit on the side of the
crankcase isn't really a slave cylinder, more like a small version of the brake
caliper, as it works on the same principle.   The leak seems to be all around
the edge where the gasket or 'O' ring sits.  So from the remark in your reply, I
take it the kit is just a new gasket/'O' ring.
> > > > >
> > > > > Tony
> > > > > Chelmsford, UK
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "gordon4046" <gordon.smith29@>
wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > John & Tony
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Sorry to be pedantic - but the Master Cylinder is the one on the
Handlebar, the one on the side of the engine casing is the Slave Cylinder...
> > > > > > Yes, the kit is expensive for what you get.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I would make sure the Slave Cylinder attachment bolts (3 off) are
all done up correctly (evenly) and check the Clutch Hose Banjo bolt for
tightness and check 'condition' of hose as well.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hope it's not too serious though.
> > > > > > (That's what you get for going off and enjoying yourself..)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Cheers
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Gordon
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, John Wilkinson
<davidjohn.wilkinson@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > It is probably clutch fluid leaking from the master cylinder. I had
exactly the same problem.
> > > > > >  A new seal kit will solve it and it is a doddle to fit though you
will need to bleed clutch afterwards.
> > > > > > Kit is about £35 which seems very expensive when you see what you
get!
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Good luck.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:45 PM, lovemytrophy
<tony.mitchell51@>wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > > On the back of all the other problems that I have sorted out, I
now have a new problem to bug me. I'm getting fluid leaking down the side of the
engine casing, around where the hydraulic clutch pipe is attached and it is all
over the side where the engine oil viewing window is. The fluid is clear, but
does have a kind of oily smell. I suspect that it's Clutch hydraulic fluid as it
seems to originate around the little box that is attached to the side of the
engine casing. clutch is still working fine though.
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

It's possible also that after a tip over one of the HT leads may have slipped
slightly.   Mine was running absolutely great at the weekend - remember in a
previous post, I said that I had tightened up all ht connections - well, come
this week and starting at work after my shifted at 10pm. it was intermittently
running on three pots.  When it did that, I heard the unmistakeable sound of HT
arcing, so the vibration of the thrashing that it had at the weekend has shaken
something loose again.   Nice job for tomorrow if the rain holds off.   I want
to get it all opened up to access the leads, then wait until it gets dark and go
out and start it up.   With it being dark, I should have no difficulty in seeing
where the arcing is taking place.   Then I get to fix it on Sunday.   Gordon
gave me a link to the PVL leads that can be bought from Sprint Manufacturing, so
I may well replace all four leads with brand new PVL ones.

Tony
Chelmsford, UK


--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Johnson" <edljohnson2@...> wrote:
>
>  I agree Tony! If the low speed air mix was correct before it tipped
> over why would it not still be correct. We are talking about a "tip over"
> not a major crash here. I'd look for something simple that could have been
> dislodged easily like the side stand switch or the clutch switch. I bought a
> new battery because I thought I had a low voltage problem and it turned out
> that the connector to the clutch switch was not replaced correctly after I
> cleaned the contacts! DOH!
> MY BAD!
>
> Ed J.
> 2001 Triumph Trophy 1200
> Indian Harbour Beach, FL 32937
> Cell - 321/795-4387
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Tony
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 8:14 PM
> To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: STRANGE PROBLEM AFTER TIP OVER........
>
> I think that people have lost sight of the original post in which it said
> "intermittent cut out" not misfire.   This is electrical and sounds
> identical to my cutting out problem, which turned out to be a dirty kill
> switch.   In this case, however, it could be any of the electrical
> connections or components that form the 'ground' line to the ignition
> module.  The quick solution to prove this, as I found on mine, was to pull
> up the connection that has the little loopback on it, where the optional
> alarm would fit.  Connect a suitable wire between the wire on the igniter
> side of the connector and the battery negative terminal.   Start the bike
> and see if it still has the intermittent cut out.   If it doesn't, then you
> know for sure that somewhere along that circuit that provides that ground
> signal to the igniter module there is either a broken device or dislodged
> connection.  You can use the wire trick to short out each of the components
> in that loop to eliminate each one at a time.
> I did upload a drawing some time back, that I did of the complete ignition
> circuit, but can't find the link to it. However, you should be able to trace
> it through if you have a Haynes Manual, except their drawing is far more
> complex than mine was.
>
> Tony
> Chelmsford, UK
>

Lube it with a dry lube eg a silicone additive etc or leave it dry. if the
routing works then mimic it exactly. I have managed it with just the tank off
but you have to get a clip off the lower adjuster and then replace it - luckily
this then means the lower adjuster nuts don't have to be tightened. Set the
adjustment (free length of cable exactly the same) at the bottom or you won't be
able to adjust it sufficiently at the top requiring you restart.
Finally leave an 1/8 of slack or the bike won't start. Can't remember any more
except when you know what to expect it is actually easy. Except the handlebar
which is a serious handful of bits so study it carefully and release the master
brake clamp to give you manoeuvring space.
Good luck
A2

I think it should have the adjuster nuts at the bottom half way up the thread.

?????   Read my post again Bob.

Tony
Chelmsford, UK


--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "apsllp@..." <apsllp@...> wrote:
>
> Tony:
>
> My guess is electrical (as Ed suggested),  a missing or split vac cap, boot,
or a line. Nothing internal to a carb.
>
> Bob Clark
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Good luck seeing the arcing........otherwise going back to the shop moving the
pilots after the tip over - maybe I was harsh in that perhaps dirt was dislodged
and partially blocked the pilot jets.
A2


--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Tony" <tony.mitchell51@...> wrote:
>
> It's possible also that after a tip over one of the HT leads may have slipped
slightly.   Mine was running absolutely great at the weekend - remember in a
previous post, I said that I had tightened up all ht connections - well, come
this week and starting at work after my shifted at 10pm. it was intermittently
running on three pots.  When it did that, I heard the unmistakeable sound of HT
arcing, so the vibration of the thrashing that it had at the weekend has shaken
something loose again.   Nice job for tomorrow if the rain holds off.   I want
to get it all opened up to access the leads, then wait until it gets dark and go
out and start it up.   With it being dark, I should have no difficulty in seeing
where the arcing is taking place.   Then I get to fix it on Sunday.   Gordon
gave me a link to the PVL leads that can be bought from Sprint Manufacturing, so
I may well replace all four leads with brand new PVL ones.
>
> Tony
> Chelmsford, UK
>
>
> --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Johnson" <edljohnson2@> wrote:
> >
> >  I agree Tony! If the low speed air mix was correct before it tipped
> > over why would it not still be correct. We are talking about a "tip over"
> > not a major crash here. I'd look for something simple that could have been
> > dislodged easily like the side stand switch or the clutch switch. I bought a
> > new battery because I thought I had a low voltage problem and it turned out
> > that the connector to the clutch switch was not replaced correctly after I
> > cleaned the contacts! DOH!
> > MY BAD!
> >
> > Ed J.
> > 2001 Triumph Trophy 1200
> > Indian Harbour Beach, FL 32937
> > Cell - 321/795-4387
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Tony
> > Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 8:14 PM
> > To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: STRANGE PROBLEM AFTER TIP OVER........
> >
> > I think that people have lost sight of the original post in which it said
> > "intermittent cut out" not misfire.   This is electrical and sounds
> > identical to my cutting out problem, which turned out to be a dirty kill
> > switch.   In this case, however, it could be any of the electrical
> > connections or components that form the 'ground' line to the ignition
> > module.  The quick solution to prove this, as I found on mine, was to pull
> > up the connection that has the little loopback on it, where the optional
> > alarm would fit.  Connect a suitable wire between the wire on the igniter
> > side of the connector and the battery negative terminal.   Start the bike
> > and see if it still has the intermittent cut out.   If it doesn't, then you
> > know for sure that somewhere along that circuit that provides that ground
> > signal to the igniter module there is either a broken device or dislodged
> > connection.  You can use the wire trick to short out each of the components
> > in that loop to eliminate each one at a time.
> > I did upload a drawing some time back, that I did of the complete ignition
> > circuit, but can't find the link to it. However, you should be able to trace
> > it through if you have a Haynes Manual, except their drawing is far more
> > complex than mine was.
> >
> > Tony
> > Chelmsford, UK
> >
>

Jack

I got an email back from Storz saying they stopped producing them a few
years ago.  No word ever came back from Saeng - but I ended up finding a
used set of GenMars from LDW - so I am all set!

Mike

On Fri, Jun 1, 2012 at 4:13 PM, Jack Byers <jackbyers@...> wrote:

> Hey Mike,
>   I know they had them in the last few years. Try calling them
> they're very friendly and helpful. Which is more than I can say for
> my final, and absolutely last choice for doing any kind of business
> with as they are the biggest assholes I've ever had the misfortune of
> coming across I've ever known in the motorcycle industry, with the
> possible exception of that steroid laden old fuck at Orange County
> Choppers.
>    I got my dream bike in 1995. It is a 1200cc BRG Triumph Trophy.
> The problem came with the position of the bars being so low and
> forward. I tried Glen Mars, and they were a God-send. Any relief was
> appreciated. But, with those stock bars, there was only so much to be
> done. A couple of years went by, and I was in so much pain. One nite
> on the road, I thought of Matt Capri's big Daytona Race bike. I
> remembered it had handlebars! He only used a bike for racing and
> tuning foe a couple of years, and he knows everybody, so i went to
> see him to ask who did that kind of work to build me a conversion,
> like the one he had on his '95 racer. He laughed and said, "You ain't
> going to believe this, but I had two of those things made so I'd have
> a spare for the racer. I was digging around in some old boxes, and
> came across the back-up set. He practically gave it to me, and then
> gave me a set of what looked like "Ape Hangers" compared to what I
> had been used to riding for several years. I had to make up some new
> plumbing, but that wasn't a big deal. When I got on it to ride, it
> felt so strange. Just like the first time you grabbed onto a pair of
> tall bars. these were actually only about six inches taller, which
> put about an overall height diff of about 8 inches! It just felt too
> weird. I wasn't sure about appexing corners. It felt like I was
> hanging off more than I  had ever had to before. As it turned out
> within a week or two it all felt perfectly natural. I could hang off
> inside and forward, to add more weight bias to the front. Call up
> Saeng, and talk to them. If they aren't doing it, they will possibly
> put you in touch with the right people. To tell you the truth, I
> don't think it would be too hard to use a strong set of "U" bolts,
> and make an adapter plate. With the judicious use of a few aluminum
> washers (shims), you could easily mount a set of bars onto anything.
> Keep looking, they're out there!
>  Kindest regards,
>    Poppa Jack
> On May 30, 2012, at 5:08 PM, Mike Stephenson wrote:
>
> > I found the Saeng web site: http://www.saeng.com/home.php
> >
> > they show no bar risers.
> >
> > So the So. Bay Triumph one off customs is not an option...that's
> > out...
> >
> > Storz I tried calling - but did after they closed so emailed.
> >
> > I emailed Rox - nothing available from them.
> >
> > Pending hearing back from Storz, looking more and more like Gen Mar. I
> > have used their products in past and liked them - though the Storz
> > set up
> > would allow more options.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> List guidelines: PLEASE NO grumpy replies, or replies which merely add
> agreement to a previous post. If a reply is only relevant to the original
> writer, please REPLY DIRECT to that person. No SPAM, no adult-oriented
> topics, and no postings of a political or commercial nature are allowed,
> except for personal items for sale/wanted. Please trim old messages to a
> minimum when replying.
>
>
> Post message: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
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>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Sad to say this tends to happen at least twice a year. Generally triggered
by sudden pounding vibration such as potholes and the like. Fwiw, I believe
it's a current surge issue. When an element breaks it can cause a sharp
short duration current spike. Which tends to blow the other bulb at the
same moment that the filiment breaks loose in the failing bulb. This issue
is even worst on systems running on the high end of the regulator safe
voltage range. Which is my case. Now, knock on wood but since I installed a
headlight modulator I have yet to blow a bulb. And its likely that the
newly installed modulator in series acts as a current limiter. Plus the
bulbs should run cooler at least during the daylight. So, hopefully this
will prove to be an unforeseen benefit of using this system.
I will say that it seems like the percentage of cagers who take notice has
greatly improved. From about 30% before to close to 75% now.

Hope this helps.

Samuel Crider
96 BBBB PB
New Orleans

On Jun 1, 2012 11:03 AM, "Brian Easton" <jb.easton@...> wrote:

Hiya Scott and Greg,

Yes the double light lens unscrews from the rear of the unit. I had one
crack with a stone and just replaced the lens that I bought from flea bay.
I recall I had to take the whole front fairing off to do this though.

HTH
BOAT 96 BBBB Merlot Red. SCOTLAND

From: Greg
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 4:53 PM
To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Headlight issues



Hi Scott, Yes, it is a relay. There are 3 relays clustered to the left and
below the speedometer...

--- In mailto:TriumphTrophy%40yahoogroups.com, "haleys55" <scotthaley623@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi all, can...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




------------------------------------

List guidelines: PLEASE NO grumpy replies, or replies which...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi John, It is tricky getting it disconnected from the carbs. Don't be surprised
if you have to take the carbs off.
Greg

"johnbarrett41"  wrote:
Hi Guys, Just got in from a good run out tonight BUT the last 7 miles were done
with the tickover turned up real high as the throttle cable broke. I seem to
remember a post where someone said its a bugger of a job to fit a replacement so
wandered if anyone has any tips to make it easier when i get the new one. Many
thanks in advance Jubba 92 dark blue 1200

First if you haven't already done so. Cut off the two wires on the alarm
jumper header and solder them together. Do so before attempting to
troubleshoot any futher. Then if needed rework all of the frame ground
points. Plus, relocate the grounds under the front nose back to the  main
frame. If it still persist, cut off and replace the primary connectors at
the coils.

As for fuel related, mabee some stuff from the carb/tank bottom finally got
stirred up. Possiably lodging in a low speed cavity somewhere or in one of
the carb fuel inlet tee screens. If they still exist.

Most all of the preventive stuff I addressed all at one time during the
post purchase tuneup. But beforehand had the same low speed problems.
Soldering the alarm jumper cured my low speed cutout issue.

Samuel Crider
96 BBBB PB
New Orleans

On Jun 1, 2012 5:36 PM, "a2 - inoperative emessages" <adeux60@...>
wrote:


Good luck seeing the arcing........otherwise going back to the shop moving
the pilots after the tip over - maybe I was harsh in that perhaps dirt was
dislodged and partially blocked the pilot jets.
A2



--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Tony" <tony.mitchell51@...> wrote:
>
> It's possible also t...

> --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Johnson" <edljohnson2@> wrote:
> >
> > I agree Tony! If...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Friends,
    I've just been so anxious to get up that way and shake a few
hands. I'm trying to figure out a way to have my cake and eat it too.
Maybe my little Sister has the right idea. She and her husband are a
good day's ride to Crater Lake. She and her hubby are leaving
bellingham on the 3rd, and taking a week to get there. Perhaps I
could visit up you folks way, like maybe meet at a nice camp spot, or
I could pitch my tiny tent out of the way for a nite on the way up. I
could get my riding partner in Forestville to pack up, and meet me
where ever I'm meeting you all. Then he and I can ride on from there
to Crater Lake (actually it's in Prospect,Or.) The Union Creek Resort
on hwy. 62, just before the Lake. (866)560-3565, for all their info.
"unioncreekoregon.com". I'm curious to see how long it takes to get
there from the Sac. area. Has anybody ridden that before? Anyhow, I'm
just thinking outloud, and getting excited to get out of here again.
We have the renovation almost totally complete. We have to hang a few
more pictures, and keep pounding away at that pile of old junk in the
garage. I tossed out about ten pairs of Levis that are too big for me
now, and found three pair that I'd stashed away when they got too
small, back in the 70's. Bell bottoms! I've lost almost 90 pounds
now, over the last three years. My bike really notices the
difference. It would cost me a bundle to take that much weight off
the bike! Hahahahaha!!!
   Kindest regards,
     Poppa Jack

Hey John,
   I've heard it mentioned that we should zip-tie a second new cable
along the route of the new cable. I've not had to wrestle one of
these in place, as I have had it replaced when I replace the air-
filter at a major service. I guess the good part would be that the
cable is already routed when you're trying to fix your bike on the
side of the road..
   Kindest regards,
   Poppa Jack
On Jun 1, 2012, at 5:24 PM, Greg wrote:

> Hi John, It is tricky getting it disconnected from the carbs. Don't
> be surprised if you have to take the carbs off.
> Greg
>
> "johnbarrett41" wrote:
> Hi Guys, Just got in from a good run out tonight BUT the last 7
> miles were done with the tickover turned up real high as the
> throttle cable broke. I seem to remember a post where someone said
> its a bugger of a job to fit a replacement so wandered if anyone
> has any tips to make it easier when i get the new one. Many thanks
> in advance Jubba 92 dark blue 1200
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "haleys55" <scotthaley623@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all, can anyone help me with this. Both my low beams went out at the same
time I'm assuming its a relay not a bulb problem. Is that correct?

Scott,

Everyone's advice is correct, except that the normal relays you can buy in any
parts store in the US won't work, even though they are physically the same. 
They are wired differently internally.

Someone had posted a detailed description of this problem a year or two ago, and
described in detail how to re-arrange the wires coming into the relay so the
more common relay would work.  Anyone remember that?  If anyone can find it, it
is probably worth putting into the FAQ or files section.

Rather than remove the side fairing for these types of repairs, I just remove
the fairing nose.  It is easy and quick to do, and will give you full access to
all the electricals.  Just have a nice soft old blanket ready on the bench to
lay the nose on once removed, and pad the front fended with cloth when putting
it back on, as you will need to hold it with your knees and the fender while
re-attaching the wires.

I think I did something similar except I find that there are two types of relay
and it is random what you will get if you go into a store unless they have both
types.  The important point is the schematic on the relay as well as the pin
layout.

Someone did publish the exact equivalent. But in my haste I just released the
pins out of the bike plug and rearranged them so they matched the schematics.
Easy enough as you will have

Low amps
relay plus (signal from switch)
Relay neg

higher amps
Power
Earth or ground

Also if you do this buy a spare relay or two that matches the bike or arrangent
you have settled on and store them in the headlight - orientated so as not to
fill with water too.

A2



--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "rick" <rhartwick@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "haleys55" <scotthaley623@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all, can anyone help me with this. Both my low beams went out at the same
time I'm assuming its a relay not a bulb problem. Is that correct?
>
> Scott,
>
> Everyone's advice is correct, except that the normal relays you can buy in any
parts store in the US won't work, even though they are physically the same. 
They are wired differently internally.
>
> Someone had posted a detailed description of this problem a year or two ago,
and described in detail how to re-arrange the wires coming into the relay so the
more common relay would work.  Anyone remember that?  If anyone can find it, it
is probably worth putting into the FAQ or files section.
>
> Rather than remove the side fairing for these types of repairs, I just remove
the fairing nose.  It is easy and quick to do, and will give you full access to
all the electricals.  Just have a nice soft old blanket ready on the bench to
lay the nose on once removed, and pad the front fended with cloth when putting
it back on, as you will need to hold it with your knees and the fender while
re-attaching the wires.
>