2002 Emerald Green Trophy 1200.  6500 miles, Russell day-long seat w/
backrest, Throttlemeister, Starcom intercom, factory side cases, Nelson-
Rigg tank and tail bags. $6200 Located in Sarasota, FL.  email for pics.

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Greg  Andrews"
<gandrews2@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Craig,
> The Keihin carbs have a non-moveable clip, so the only way to lift
the
> needles is to put small washers or a spacer under each clip. It's
> always a good idea to sync the carbs after doing engine or carb
work.
> It smoothes out the engine and gets better fuel mileage. Do you
have a
> carb syncronizing setup? I bought mine from Motion Pro #08-0010.
Any
> decent shop should sell them. I think it was under $50 US.
>
> Sounds like Rob has also experimented with his carbs. My two
Trophys
> both have Mikuni carbs, but I also have a set of Keihin carbs off
a
> wrecked Trophy. I toyed with the idea of changing the carbs to
Keihin
> in search of better fuel mileage.
>
> > Greg, thanks for your help. It sounds like a worthwhile idea to
re-jet and tune. I hit a kangaroo the other night. Thought I would
just miss him, but the tail hit the bike at front mudguard and front
fairing. Broke both sides and around the headlight. The only good
thing is that I wobbled to a stop and didn't come off. My wife keeps
reminding me how lucky I was, but as usual all I can is the bloody
damage!  So the bike is apart getting some repairs. I'm doing the
valve clearances and then will go on and do the carbs. Cheers, Craig
from OZ.

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Rob Sherman" <robsherm@...>
wrote:
>
> As Greg stated, Keihins have no clips on the needles. I just went
down
> to my local hardware store and bought some brass washers that
looked
> like they would work. They in fact worked great! I also drilled out
> the caps on the mixture screws and set them all to 2.5 turns out.
And
> you definitely want to sync the carbs when you're done. I's pretty
> easy with a set of carb sticks.
>
> I haven't put a CO meter on it to dial in the idle mixture but it
runs
> so good now I don't see an immediate need.
>
> Good Luck and feel free to email me with any questions.
>
> Rob
> Rob, thanks for the advice. I had a misadventure which I have
relayed at a reply to Greg. I will have plenty of opportunity to
fiddle with things! Thanks again, Craig from OZ.

Hello all,

I have a question for those of you who may have bought
parts form the UK for your Trophy's, specifically
larger pieces liek fairings or plastics. How were the
items shipped and what were the costs?

Thanks,
Renae


      
________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Shape Yahoo! in your own image.  Join our Network Research Panel today!  
http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7

I've been informed by Storz that they no longer offer a conversion kit for a
Trophy.If you get tired of looking at yours,let me know,and I'll send you a
check. ~Tim

Bud Izen wrote:
>
> I think an easy way to "move the handlebars back" is to put a Storz
> handlebar conversion kit on top of your GenMars, then purchase a new set
> of bars. Beware that if you use any set of bars more radical (i.e. more
> pullback) than the Storz GP touring bars, you will have to change the
> throttle cable, brake line, and clutch line. Speaking from experience.
> NOTE that Storz used to list their bar conversion kit incorrectly. I think
> they list Trophies up to '98. Before I bought mine, I called them. The
> nice lady I spoke with told me if they didn't work, I got get my money
> back. I like companies that back up their products like that. Anyway, the
> conversion kit worked just great on my '99. I bought the recommended GP
> bars and didn't have to change anything else. When I installed a MUCH more
> radical set of bars with a LOT more rise and pullback, then I had to
> change everything. Last year I returned everything to stock (long story),
> but I don't plan to sell the conversion kit or GP bars, just in case I get
> tired of the stock setup (again) or in case my aging body gets tired of
> leaning forward on long trips.Bud Izen'99 Platinum 900Turner Oregon
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/moving-handlebars-back-tf3813795.html#a10920933
Sent from the Triumph Trophy mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

The following TriumphTrophy poll is now closed.  Here are the
final results:


POLL QUESTION: Many thanks to all members who answered via email concerning
their Trophy.
Our leader pointed out why not use the poll (thanks Ken!)so here it is.
Due to the set up of the poll, I have kept things simple. Just 900 or 1200 and
basic colour.
The poll will close on the 1st June and a copy of the results sent out to all
members.
It will be interesting to see if most members own the 1200 or the 900 and the
favourite colour!
Cheers,
Bob


CHOICES AND RESULTS
- 900, 21 votes, 15.00%
- 1200, 49 votes, 35.00%
- Green, 19 votes, 13.57%
- Silver, 16 votes, 11.43%
- Red, 11 votes, 7.86%
- Blue, 20 votes, 14.29%
- Other, 4 votes, 2.86%



For more information about this group, please visit
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TriumphTrophy

For help with Yahoo! Groups, please visit
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/

In a message dated 6/1/2007 6:30:07 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com writes:





The following TriumphTrophy poll is now closed. Here are the
final  results:

POLL QUESTION: Many thanks to all members who answered via  email concerning
their Trophy.
Our leader pointed out why not use the poll  (thanks Ken!)so here it is.
Due to the set up of the poll, I have kept  things simple. Just 900 or 1200
and basic colour.
The poll will close on  the 1st June and a copy of the results sent out to
all members.
It will be  interesting to see if most members own the 1200 or the 900 and
the favourite  colour!
Cheers,
Bob


CHOICES AND RESULTS
- 900, 21 votes,  15.00%
- 1200, 49 votes, 35.00%
- Green, 19 votes, 13.57%
-  Silver, 16 votes, 11.43%
- Red, 11 votes, 7.86%
- Blue, 20 votes,  14.29%
- Other, 4 votes, 2.86%






Must have used his Trophy computer to determine the %s.  Looks like a  total
of 70 votes totaling 50%.  Not many red ones even though they are the
fastest.?   hmmmmmmmmmmmm?

21 divided by 70 =15%
49 divided by 70 = 35%
------------------------------------
equals                   50%   right on



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jjack am very interested please e-mail me some more info to my  home e-
mail, king6750@... thanks, Chris

  In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "jjack602" <jjack602@...> wrote:
>
> 2002 Emerald Green Trophy 1200.  6500 miles, Russell day-long seat w/
> backrest, Throttlemeister, Starcom intercom, factory side cases,
Nelson-
> Rigg tank and tail bags. $6200 Located in Sarasota, FL.  email for
pics.
>

Vanson Leather Jacket, Size 46, Blue/Black/White $225 Shipped

This is a very thick, high-quality, motorcycle jacket from Vanson
Leathers. Padded elbows and shoulders. Small pocket on the inside.
Originally purchased for $475 new. Still in great condition. All
zippers and velcro work perfectly. Made in USA (Boston, Mass).
$225 Shipped in Continental USA (immediately) Paypal is accepted.

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12099

http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12100

Matt_Kas at cox.net

Tel: 602-481-7487

Phoenix area, Arizona

I've received a couple of notes directly from other members concerned with
Storz availability. So, I did a quick and dirty Google search and came up
with something that should work.

The conversion kit is made by SW-MOTHECH, who offer them for a variety of
bikes. http://sw-motech.de

Here's the link to the product info including pictures.

http://www.mo-tech
de/produkt/?produkt_id=466&PHPSESSID=839d0140d5804b4115ba7af69a502a52

SW-MOTECH is in Denmark, although the web gives you the option to display
the language in "Englisch".

Here's a link to someone who sells them (Twisted Throttle) in RI.

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/342/217/

  The usual warnings apply. I have no ties to either company, nor is this any
type of recommendation. Do further research before sending anyone your money


Great Bay Motorcycles supossedly makes or made some type of handlebar
conversion kit. Here's a link to them. http://www.greatbaymotorcycles
com/catalog/catalog1.asp

I also found a link to these guys, but not much info. http://www
streetfightersinc.com/HandleBarRiserKits.htm


I hope that helps. And no, I have no interest in selling either my Storz
conversion kit or the GP bars. I converted back to stock because I thought I
would be using my sports car for long distance rides, but when it came down
to actually doing it,  I couldn't do it. Maybe in a few years.... In the
meantime, I'm considering putting the Storz setup back on for use with their
GP bars that don't require me to change anything else.

If anyone has any other questions, I'm always glad to help.


Bud Izen

503-743-2657 (home phone)
503-569-3825 (cell)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 31/05/2007 23:29:28 GMT Daylight Time,
mattham111@... writes:

I  think you would find the Cruz products as good as Snap-on Craftsmen  etc.
Matt


_BWG3COY@..._ (mailto:BWG3COY@...)   wrote:



Thats cool I may invest in some of that stuff myself.
Thanks Matt
JB



John Bonnewell Reidio y Balchder.Reprobate and General Ner'do well
of  Sir Gar
Royal Saddle Sniffer to HRH Prince Owain Glyndwr.
Snorer Farter  and Skidmarketeer.
Rides anything he can get his grubby hands  on.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I noticed that I have an oil leak from the left fork tube.  I am in the
process of moving and don't have the time to devote to fix it (I think
so anyway).  Has anyone replaced a fork seal? Any tips/suggestions.
Although I know I should not ride it, can I still?  When the tube
compresses, it returns with oil coating the shaft.  I noticed when I
went to clean the bike after a 500 mile ride, that oil did run down
onto the brake caliper so I know I have lost some oil already.  Thanks
for your help.

any chance a broken alt bolt would shut off the engine?

starting to think it may have been something else.
like the cam chain. expecting the worst.

1. Any wrecked bikes around with a good 900 or even 1200
(+comp and coils) engine?

2. Anybody know if the '95 900's had the newer or the
older problematic sprag clutch setup?

Thanks,
Lowell

That's a lot of leakage!  Have you added oil recently (maybe
overfilled?) Getting on the brakes is the only concern;  except for
that I'd ride it as-is til you have the time and place to repair it.

On Sat Jun 2, 2007  "Bud Izen" budizen@...
<mailto:budizen@...?Subject=%20Re%3A%20Moving%20handlebars%20back>
wrote:

<The conversion kit is made by SW-MOTHECH, who offer them for a variety of
bikes. http://sw-motech.de <http://sw-motech.de>>

<SW-MOTECH is in Denmark, although the web gives you the option to display
the language in "Englisch".>

Bud,

I doubt if the product offered by Motech is suitable for Trophys from
'98. They mention Tigers as the Tiger is about the best sold model in
Germany. That is what .de stands for instead of Denmark (.dk). Germany
is Triumphs main market in Europe while Denmark is a small country where
motorcycling is far to expensive to ride Triumphs. ;-)

Henk,

off for a one week trip to Londen tonight. 8-)     Will I see that
sunset red BBBB at Piccadilly again? :-\

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "tlikr2000" <yooper@...> wrote:
>
> I noticed that I have an oil leak from the left fork tube.
<Snip>
  Any tips/suggestions.

Fix it before it gets to the brakes!
Oil loss from the leg will have little effect on the suspension, but
it will eventually run into the caliper reducing the braking
efficiency to approx 60% or less! Hence any sign of leakage is an
immediate MoT failure (in the UK, or whatever you call your annual
roadworthiness test where you live?)
Seals are relatively straightforward to change, but you must also cure
the cause of the failure, which is usually damage to the chrome on the
fork leg. The smallest of pits can allow a rust blob to grow which
then tears the seal, and will also tear the new one if you don't fix it.
The dealer way is to replace or re-chrome the fork leg.
The cheapskate way is to rub down the rust blob and grind out the
'nick' with a fine carborundum stick, degrease with a good solvent,
fill the pit with superglue, then rub smooth again with fine wet&dry
paper, used wet. You might still see the mark, but shouldn't be able
to feel it with a fingernail. Then renew the seal, refill with correct
grade & quantity of oil & away you go.
If you've not changed fork seals before, it's vital you read the
section in a Haynes or similar manual before you start!

Richard T.

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com wrote:
>
>
> The following TriumphTrophy poll is now closed.  Here are the
> final results:


>
> CHOICES AND RESULTS
> - 900, 21 votes, 15.00%
> - 1200, 49 votes, 35.00%

Eh?
So what are the other 50% riding?

"Lies, damn lies, and statistics!"

:-)
Richard T

I've got a Corbin seat,and I just got the small cruiser.12"x18".It fits like
a glove.~Tim

lgl12356 wrote:
>
> figuring on getting an Airhawk seat pad.
>
> Which size are you people using?  The squarish
> type or the older "protective" tongue type?
>
> Thanks,
> Lowell
>
>
>
>

--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/which-Airhawk--tf3817043.html#a10942140
Sent from the Triumph Trophy mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

Hi Lowell,
Do you mean the engine won't turn over?  You could easily check the
tension on the cam chain.  If the tension is all gone the chain is
probably off and down around the crankshaft sprocket.  First take the
hex bolt off the cam chain spring plunger. Take the spring out.  Then
undo the smaller bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner.  Pull it
out and see how many click are left on the ratchet mechanism that
puts tension on the cam chain.  No clicks left, oops, something wrong
with the cam chain.
If the cam chain tension has many clicks to go. Yep, it could be the
alternator bolt is stuck in the clutch. Hence, no turn over.
Hopes this helps, Anybody else got any ideas?
Greg Andrews
'95 900 Nightshade
222,000 miles, getting close to needing a third cam chain.

"lgl12356" <lglamb@...> wrote:

> any chance a broken alt bolt would shut off the engine?
> starting to think it may have been something else.
> like the cam chain. expecting the worst.
>
> 2. Anybody know if the '95 900's had the newer or the
> older problematic sprag clutch setup?
>
> Thanks,
> Lowell
>

Changing Fork seals is kind of a crappy job, but doable in a day if
you have all the parts in hand and the piston tool made and ready.
Getting the forks off the bike is the easy part, cracking loose the
piston bolt in the bottom of the forks is a bear. Like the other
poster said, it is very important you read the Haynes first.
I did my seals this spring. Tips I would recommend:
After you make the 30mm-nut-on-rod tool, I bolted my bench vice to
the floor, clamped the ground flat end of the rod in it, and had at
it with a breaker bar. Put a cloth around the rod and the top of your
vice to keep oil out of it and to prevent your sliders from falling
down and banging into bare metal. It took a lot of effort to break
mine loose. Other tip would be to spend the $75 on the Triumph
bushing/seal driver tool. I putzed around with PVC pipe and other
stuff trying to make something suitable, but nothing really worked
and just wasted lots of time. Out of frustration and no time, I ended
up tapping everything in place with a flattened screwdriver, working
my way round and going very slowly. Primitive and crude, but it
worked and I have no leaks. I will definately spend the money for the
tool next time. Whatver you do, take care not to scratch or damage
your chromed sliders, replacements are $$$$ if you ruin it. I bought
all the parts from Bike Bandit, no dealers anywhere near me.
  You need to fix them, oiling up your brakes is dangerous and it
ruins the pads, and my forks bottomed out during a hard stop when
they got low on oil, that can cause a crash.

What's the spec for riveting the soft link? I've installed a DID chain
and have the MotionPro Jumbo tool, but can't find the spec for
mushrooming the link. Nothing on DID's packaging or web site and I've
looked thru the Haynes and Owners booklet but can't find the spec. I am
assuming about 5-6mm? Or just do it until it looks good without
crushing the o-rings or making a tight spot?
Thanks for you help!

Joe

Is it possible to do the valves without a tool? Or is it just too much
of a PITA without it? I saw the home-brew version in the FAQ, 'spose I
could go that way if I must, but would rather spend my time getting my
daily commuter back on the road rather than spending a day cobbling
something together.
Thanks for your help!

Joe

If you don't mind removing the camshafts ;)



On Mon, 2007-06-04 at 03:28 +0000, blorf100 wrote:
> Is it possible to do the valves without a tool? Or is it just too much
> of a PITA without it? I saw the home-brew version in the FAQ, 'spose I

You can do it with out the tool, just pull the cams.



Gary





   _____

From: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of blorf100
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 11:28 PM
To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Shimming the Valves.



Is it possible to do the valves without a tool? Or is it just too much
of a PITA without it? I saw the home-brew version in the FAQ, 'spose I
could go that way if I must, but would rather spend my time getting my
daily commuter back on the road rather than spending a day cobbling
something together.
Thanks for your help!

Joe





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Gary, I still need to do my Trophy.  I should have it back together
this week.  Kevin

I will be at Americade on Thursday and Friday, will anyone from here
still be there then?  I plan to try to get into the experienced rider
class with MANYS if there is room on Fri.
I don't have much time for the gathering.  KW Dix

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Greg  Andrews" <gandrews2@...>
wrote:
>
  You could easily check the
> tension on the cam chain.  If the tension is all gone the chain is
> probably off and down around the crankshaft sprocket.  First take the
> hex bolt off the cam chain spring plunger. Take the spring out.  Then
> undo the smaller bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner.  Pull it
> out and see how many click are left on the ratchet mechanism that
> puts tension on the cam chain.

Specific to this text, just where is this "spring plunger"?
I know the part, even have one laying around somewhere, but
looking at the engine, couldn't figure out where it goes.
Under the valve cover somewhere?

I'm guessing the tensioner thing pulls out thru the head?
At least, unless you can pull out bits and pieces of it from
behind the timing sensor cover and cam inspection port, like
on mine?  :(


To the topic at large, I was thinking I may need a new engine,
or at least head.  Issues known so far, Cam Tensioner thing
destroyed.  Pulled chunks out of little inspection port, along
with some metal sand.  Chain got loose enuf to destroy timing
sensor.  Shards of fine copper wire all over behind timing cover.

All my fault, was too obsessed with possible alt bolt replacement
to even think about looking behind timing cover, even when it was
just a 2 minute job right in front of me.


1. Main concern now is if Cam Chain slipped a cog, and if it was
enuf to kill the valves.  Engine does turn over, and was running
strong right up to when the sensor was smashed.  Guessing initial
check would be compare timing marks to lobe position.

2. Secondary concern is, I was getting an intermittent engine/oil
warning lamp just before catastrophy struck.  Was only a couple
miles from target destination so figured to wait and check when
I got there.  Oops.  So now I wonder if there's ground up bits
of plastic and metal from the tensioner clogging up various oil
channels, or the pump, or at least the pickup screen.  Specific
question is, does the engine need to come out to take the sump
off to check/clean?


Oh, and determined alt bolt is bad afterall.  Turns out it's
easier to check than to talk about.  Still don't think I'll
attempt the fix myself, unless someone has the holddown tools
to loan.

Thanks all, for past, present and future.  Now off to search on
how to take off the gas tank.  Had it down to muscle memory on
my '79 Bonneville but haven't done it yet on the Trophy.

Lowell
-Oh, and a shout out to the PB Trophy on Rt 36 in East Central
Illinois last Monday or Tuesday.  There's a member in Decatur,
although the name escapes me at the moment, was it you?

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "blorf100" <blorf100@...> wrote:
>
> What's the spec for riveting the soft link? I've installed a DID chain
> and have the MotionPro Jumbo tool, but can't find the spec for
> mushrooming the link.

Joe,

There are two separate operations involved.  The first is pressing the
outer plate on until you have the same clearance (or compression on
the link O-ring) as the surrounding links.  Just use a set of feelers
to find the clearance of the surrounding links, then check as you
press the master link side plate on, until it is about the same.  Too
tight and you can crush the O-ring, and too loose, it might not seal.
  The Motion Pro tool makes it easy to control and get just right.  You
might position the link on the rear of the sprocket for this, to get
easy access and to help hold the chain while you work on it.

Once the plate is pressed on properly, change the tool over to the
spherical peen end, and then just peen the end of the rivits until
they are lightly mushroomed.  You don't need much.  You can see the
tip of the rivits swell if you look from the side.  If you get too
aggressive, you can actually crack the end tip of the rivit.  So you
are not looking to visually flatten the whole end - just expand the
hollow tip of the rivit outward so you can see it has definitely
expanded.

The first times the hardest, but you'll see it as you go.  The rivit
only needs modest expansion to hold the plate on.

Good luck.

Rick Hartwick
00 Trophy 900

Kevin,



We just need to find a time we are both off, still willing to help.



How much damage was there to the bike, you said something about the shock
but never heard any more.



Gary





   _____

From: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com [mailto:TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of K W Dix
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:29 AM
To: TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Shimming the Valves.



Gary, I still need to do my Trophy. I should have it back together
this week. Kevin





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Well, after getting the body damage repaired I found the rear mono shock had
been badly damaged from the roof.  The nitrogen and oil charge was gone from
the speed   and weight of the impact of the roof, I guess.

I've sent the shock back to Dave Quinn to be ret'd to England for repair or
replacement.  And I'm going to put the old shock back on for the time being.

I have to get it back together to get to Americade.

Kevin



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]