Thanks a lot for your input guys.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!
Regards /Henrik



--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "AJ Turner" <aj-turner@...>
wrote:
>
> OK Henrik,
>
> According to the manual, you need SAE 10W-20 fork oil.
>
> When re-filling the forks:
>
> 1) do this WITHOUT the spring in place
> 2) hold them straight up (vertical) and slowly add oil
> 3) slide the fork up and down inside the slider as you go to
evenly
> distribute the oil
> 4) with the fork fully lowered into the slider, fill them until
the level is
> 133mm from the top edge of the fork
> 5) now you can replace the spring and close the forks by replacing
the top
> bolt
>
> Good luck!
>
> AJ Turner
> '96 Merlot BBBB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Henrik" <trippletrophy@...>
>
>
> >Thanks for the reply.  here is the 5 last digits  76534.
> >its a -99  triple
>

I am taking classes for my masters and need to do a reseach project.
I have decided to buck the trend in motorcycle research.  Most studies
I have reviewed focus on the risks and dangers.  I would like to ask
this group why they ride.  I have a informed consent form and a 10
question questionnaire.  I will not post them until I recieve approval
from the moderators of the group. To sum, this is an honest research
project and all responses will be held in confidence.  Any help the
group could give would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you for the
consideration of this project.

Hey Mark,

So you're saying that the bike handles much better lowered, but that
you can only use the center stand?

best, Leon

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "MARK BAGSHAW" <mclbiker@...> wrote:
>
> I FITTED A 'STANDARD' LOWERED HAGON SHOCK WITH THEIR PROGRESSIVE FORK
> SPRINGS [20MM I THINK] THEN LOWERED THE FRONT BY 10MM THROUGH THE YOLKS.
> YOU CANNOT USE THE MAIN STAND BUT I DONT HAVE A PROBLEM ON CORNERS,
> NEITHER DO I HANG ABOUT. THESE CHANGES CONVINCED ME TO KEEP THE BIKE,
> AS I CAN KNOW MOVE THE BIKE AROUND A LOT EASIER.
>

Because it is FUN!
   Research Complete - you have passed with flying colors.



tlikr2000 <yooper@...> wrote:
           I am taking classes for my masters and need to do a reseach project.
I have decided to buck the trend in motorcycle research. Most studies
I have reviewed focus on the risks and dangers. I would like to ask
this group why they ride. I have a informed consent form and a 10
question questionnaire. I will not post them until I recieve approval
from the moderators of the group. To sum, this is an honest research
project and all responses will be held in confidence. Any help the
group could give would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for the
consideration of this project.






---------------------------------
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mark
With a standard Hagon...do you mean the standard shock without the remote
pre-load
adjutment?

Can you access the pre-load adjustment thats on top of the shock?  Easy to get
to?



Leon

I think what Mark is saying is that the center stand is to long and will not
work once the
bike is lowered.  I had mine cut & re-welded so it now works fine.


The bike is soooo much nicer lowered...handling all around is better


--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "L.C.S." <LCSnews@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Mark,
>
> So you're saying that the bike handles much better lowered, but that
> you can only use the center stand?
>
> best, Leon
>
> --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "MARK BAGSHAW" <mclbiker@> wrote:
> >
> > I FITTED A 'STANDARD' LOWERED HAGON SHOCK WITH THEIR PROGRESSIVE FORK
> > SPRINGS [20MM I THINK] THEN LOWERED THE FRONT BY 10MM THROUGH THE YOLKS.
> > YOU CANNOT USE THE MAIN STAND BUT I DONT HAVE A PROBLEM ON CORNERS,
> > NEITHER DO I HANG ABOUT. THESE CHANGES CONVINCED ME TO KEEP THE BIKE,
> > AS I CAN KNOW MOVE THE BIKE AROUND A LOT EASIER.
> >
>

I left the long original message below as it has been a LONG time!!!

OK...the problem has been fixed, but took a lotm of searching to find.
  It was the fuel petcock all the time.  2 dealers cleaned out the tank
and lines, a coil and plug wire was replaced all to no avail.  They
rebuilt the petcock and it took care of the problem.

I have been without the bike since Oct 17.  The delay has been the
fact that I bought the bike from a dealer on Thursday Oct 12 and it
crapped out on Oct 13.  The dealer had me drop it off to them on the
17th and they had it until Nov 10 and did NOTHING!!!  It took some
ugly conversation to get them to send it out to a Triumph dealer to
look at it.  They had it for 3 weeks on top of that (Thanksgiving and
parts ordering slowed their process, but they were working on it).

Thought I would pass it on...

Y'all have a great Christmas and New Year!

Mark Jensen
2001 Triumph Trophy 1200

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <mark@...> wrote:
>
> Bear with me on this as it is a bit of a long story.
>
> I purchased a 2001 Trophy 1200 last Thursday and was going on a 1,000
> mile ride leaving friday am from Dallas.  I had ridden about 300 miles
> and it was running flawless.  It stared to sputter and I realized I
> needed to go on reserve.  It has not run the same since.
>
> It will sputter and cough excessively at 1-3000 rpm and stalls at
> idle.  It runs fine at 4000 rpm or better.
>
> This bike runs great when started cold.  The problem does not begin
> until it is warmed up.  It seems to be running rich and choking itself
> out.  Mileage dropped from 40 to less than 30 mpg after the problem
began.
>
> I took it to a dealer inn Kerrville, Texas (Yamaha/Suzuki dealer) and
> they cleaned and flushed the tank (it was a mess), removed and cleaned
> out the carbs and valve (also a mess), and cleaned the air filter.
>
> We started it with fresh gas and it ran great...until warmed up when
> it was the same.  I nursed it back to Dallas, but struggled when I was
> in towns and hitting street lights, etc.  After about 220 of the 300
> mile return trip it just died on me and I coasted to the side of the
> road.  It did this 2 other times and it was fixed by opening the gas
> cap and letting air in.  It would then start and run as earlier (still
> bad at <4000 rpm).
>
> Any ideas???  The shop in Kerrville was great and they really wanted
> me to leave the bike as they wanted to fix it.  I needed to get home
> and since they were closed on Sunday and Monday it would have been a
> problem requiring a 300 mile trip back to get it.  i am also going
> back to the dealer I bought it from as they assured me it was ready
to go.
>
> Thanks for any help!
>
> Mark Jensen
>

The new moniker for the Kaw is "The World's Fastest Luggage"

taylorrguk <rgtay@...> wrote:  Just picked up this week's Motorcycle
News (UK), which has a big splash
claiming Triumph are resurrecting the big sport tourer project from 2-3
years ago, to challenge the Kawa GTR1400. To be more touring than hyper-
sport orientated this time. The only photos are repeats of old ones.
"No comment" from the factory.

Richard T.



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The  bike is soooo much nicer lowered...handling all around is  better


This must be different than the lowering method of reversing the axle cams.
As I have found that this mod turns the bike into a pile of shite.
Let me list the ways....
1. grinds everything down low, almost for no reason...stay away from speed
bumps or loose parts.
2.kinks the front brake lines
3.allows rocks and debris to be thrown directly into the oil cooler, even
with the extended front fender.
4.Steers like a battleship in corners.
5.no centerstand
I will be returning the bike to stock this winter.
dave



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Due to taking the bike off the centre stand with the chain and lock
still around the front wheel and forks (I'm putting it down to a
senior moment!) I have had to replace the cracked front mud guard.
I thought it would be easy enough job to do without removing the
front wheel. Well I had one hellva time with the two bolts holding
the mud guard in place! The problem was the rubber coated nuts inside
the mud guard. As you unscrewed the bolts, the rubber coated nuts
would start turning. I managed to get one of them out using a small
mole grip but the other one proved to be a right SOB! In the end I
had to snap the mud guard so I could access it.
Now I have placed the new one in position, greased the bolts well but
find the rubber coated nuts still move as I tighten the bolts! :-(
Has anyone done this job before and if so, what advice can you give
me?

On a side note, I took the new Tiger out for a test run yesterday.
Nice bike, excellent riding position, smooth gears and bags of torque
from the engine.I was surprised how light it was considering the size
of it. The route took us through a build up area, dual carriage way
and country roads covered in wet leaves and the bike didn't throw a
wobble once. On the dual carriage way we got up to 80 mph and my
upper body wasn't blasted by the wind although I did feel some
pressure on my exposed legs but nothing which worried me.
Negative points: I have short legs and long body (5'8 tall) so I
wasn't 100% happy at junctions or stopping on roundabouts. I did ask
if the seat could be lowered but was told no, you have to buy an
aftermarket seat to do this :-(
The pedal for the rear brake seemed quite low (had to really push
your foot forward to feel it) and talking to others who also rode the
new Tiger, I'm not alone in spotting this. Not much room either to
adjust it either.
Would I trade in my Trophy 900 for one? I was very tempted but at the
moment the love affair with my Trophy is as strong as ever ;-)
Cheers,
Bob

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "L.C.S." <LCSnews@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Mark,
>
> So you're saying that the bike handles much better lowered, but that
> you can only use the center stand?

Just the opposite.
Wihe bike significantly lowered, you canNOT use the centrestand
(unless you're a weightlifting champion?)

Richard T

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "bmillard7291"
<bmillard7291@...> wrote:
>

> On a side note, I took the new Tiger out for a test run yesterday.


Where? - didn't think demos were in the shops yet?

Richard T

I discarded the rubber nuts. I used a through bolt, washer and nut. Easy
enough.

Ken


----- Original Message -----
From: "bmillard7291" <bmillard7291@...>
To: <TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 6:32 PM
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] front mudguard



> Now I have placed the new one in position, greased the bolts well but
> find the rubber coated nuts still move as I tighten the bolts! :-(
> Has anyone done this job before and if so, what advice can you give
> me?

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <mwj1107@...> wrote:
> OK...the problem has been fixed, but took a lotm of searching to find.
>  It was the fuel petcock all the time.  2 dealers cleaned out the tank

Glad you got your bike back, hopefully, the weather will warm up a
little for you to get some riding in.  Did 850 trouble free miles over
thanksgiving.  Rode my buddies '01 K1200 LT for a bit, and could'nt
wait to get back on the Trophy!

Mike in Rowlett
'01 plat BBBB

Hi Steve,

I've only just bought my first Trophy a week and a half ago (a '98
1200), and i've only just discovered this site, but i've been having
very similar trouble to yourself.  My soloutions may not work for you,
but then again they might!!

We thought it may have been a carb issue at first, so they were whipped
off, cleaned and blown through, and refitted.  The plugs were also
replaced.  Same problem.  We then noticed that pistons 2 and 3 (the
same ones as yours) were behaving very lazily, if at all.  These are
both fed by the same coil, so that was replaced, and things got better,
if not altogether perfect.

Today i took her for a blast up the A470 from Cardiff towards the
Brecons, and lost my dipped and main beam lights on the way - not
good.  Pulling into a petrol station to fuel up, she died on me
altogether.  The clues are getting bigger!!  :)  I needed a jump start
to get going again, and whilst on the A470 at 80-ish, she behaved
flawlessly, but as soon as i got back into town and the riding was stop-
start-stop, she cut out, and both me and the bike suffered the
indignity of being taken back to the workshop in the back of his
Transit....

A few multimeter readings later, and it is very much looking like the
voltage regulator / recifier is faulty (hopefully that and not the
alternator!!) and is fooling the charging circuit into thinking the
battery is fully charged when it isn't.  Certainly the battery was as
flat as a a witches'.... :)

Like i said, it may be of no help to you at all, but having read of
your symptoms, which were broadly similar to mine, i thought i'd post
my own diognosis :)

All the best from the newbie,

Greg

Thanks Ken, I will give that a go.
Cheers,
Bob

Richard,
I was told that they had the bike in on the Wednesday but only started
doing the road tests on the Friday. I went to my usual Triumph dealer
which is Bevan's in Cardiff.
Cheers,
Bob

Greg,
Just read your message and noticed you travelled from Cardiff. Have you
been out with the Bevan's RAT group yet? Next ride out is on the 9th if
your interested.
Cheers,
Bob

Hi all, i've just joined this group after buying my first Triumph -
a '98 Trophy 1200 in British Racing Green - a week and a half ago.

The mirrors on mine are pretty useless, having gone all "floppy", and
once i go past about 55mph they simply fold back against the fairing
leaving me with no decent view behind.  There also appears to be no way
of tightening them up, mostly due to some "repairs" caried out on them
by the previous owner.

Can anyone recommend a decent breaker (i'm in the UK) where i may be
able to get hold of a replacement set which will stay in position once
i've adjusted them to give me a decent view of what's going on behind
me??!

Many thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer :)

Greg

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the reply, great to hear from you.  I've been into Bevans
a couple of times this past week (it's literally just around the
corner from me, i live in Grangetown) but haven't been out with their
RAT Group as of yet.  What time will you be starting out on the 9th?
I'm on nights at work this week, finishing at 7 on Saturday morning,
but if it's not a mega-early start i could likely still make it if
it's 10 in the morning or later - i'll have coffee on an intravenous
drip!!

Thanks again for the message, looking forward to hearing from you :)

Greg

>
>  Greg,
> Just read your message and noticed you travelled from Cardiff. Have
you
> been out with the Bevan's RAT group yet? Next ride out is on the
9th if
> your interested.
> Cheers,
> Bob
>

Theres a fix in the FAQ...basicially drill them out and bolt them
down in place for the nubs.  I have two with some moderate scratches
that I could part with.  I just replaced mine and they  were $121
US.  ouch

> Hi all, i've just joined this group after buying my first Triumph -
> a '98 Trophy 1200 in British Racing Green - a week and a half ago.
>
> The mirrors on mine are pretty useless, having gone all "floppy",
and
> once i go past about 55mph they simply fold back against the
fairing
> leaving me with no decent view behind.  There also appears to be no
way
> of tightening them up, mostly due to some "repairs" caried out on
them
> by the previous owner.
>
> Can anyone recommend a decent breaker (i'm in the UK) where i may
be
> able to get hold of a replacement set which will stay in position
once
> i've adjusted them to give me a decent view of what's going on
behind
> me??!
>
> Many thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer :)
>
> Greg
>

Many thanks Phil, i'll try that this week :)

Greg

Hi Greg,
Try here for the mirrors: http://www.triumph-ant.co.uk/
This is I pick up some parts for the bike (like the mudguard!).
Sandy, the owner also keeps in stock indicators for the Trophy.
Bought a new custom seat from him recently (Friday) and noticed he
had several bikes there for sale including two lovely looking
Thunderbirds :-)

Bevan's RAT group: Just pasted in the latest details of the next ride
out below.

9th December: Following the success of the 2005 Pack ride to
Bethlehem, there will be another to get those Christmas cards posted
early for Christmas, with the Bethlehem postmark on the envelope. A
pub lunch will be taken on the return journey (with a big log burner
to warm you through!). We will leave Bevans shop at 9 a.m. sharp.

Here's a link to the Bevan's website:
http://www.bevanmc.co.uk/home.asp
There's a list of the 2007 rideout's in the RAT section. Hope to meet
you on one of them!

It's a small world Greg! I live in Fairwater but was born in
Grangetown :-)
Cheers,
Bob

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the reply, and the link to Triumph-ant, i'll have to try
and get up there in the next week or two and see what they've got,
being as how they're so close  :)

I'll likely give this Saturday's ride-out a miss Bob, as i wont be
back in from a 12 hour shift at work until about 7 on Saturday
morning, but i'd love to try and catch up with you all on one in the
New Year if possible :)

I'll email you off-board Bob, maybe we can meet up for a sharpener or
two sometime over the approaching festive period :):):)

Greg

>
> Hi Greg,
> Try here for the mirrors: http://www.triumph-ant.co.uk/
> This is I pick up some parts for the bike (like the mudguard!).
> Sandy, the owner also keeps in stock indicators for the Trophy.
> Bought a new custom seat from him recently (Friday) and noticed he
> had several bikes there for sale including two lovely looking
> Thunderbirds :-)
>
> Bevan's RAT group: Just pasted in the latest details of the next
ride
> out below.
>
> 9th December: Following the success of the 2005 Pack ride to
> Bethlehem, there will be another to get those Christmas cards
posted
> early for Christmas, with the Bethlehem postmark on the envelope. A
> pub lunch will be taken on the return journey (with a big log
burner
> to warm you through!). We will leave Bevans shop at 9 a.m. sharp.
>
> Here's a link to the Bevan's website:
> http://www.bevanmc.co.uk/home.asp
> There's a list of the 2007 rideout's in the RAT section. Hope to
meet
> you on one of them!
>
> It's a small world Greg! I live in Fairwater but was born in
> Grangetown :-)
> Cheers,
> Bob
>

--An engineer friend, with a long-term Guzzi and his'n'hers Triumph
Adventurers, tried this on the rubber buffers holding the rear lamp,
but found the repair did not last well. He found the exact same
fixings in the R.S. Compoments cataloque at £4 each, booked them to
his work, so has not got a part number.I have the same fault on my
trophy, with the 'clocks' wobbling around, will look into it.  Urco

- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "AJ Turner" <aj-turner@...>
wrote:
>
> Welcome to the list and to the wonderful world of Trophys ;-)
>
> What's going on with your instrument cluster is that the entire
thing
> is attached via small rubber buffer type screws.  The "head" of the
> screw on one or both ends has come apart form the rubber buffer.
>
> Your rear tail-brake lamp assembly is also mounted on these same
> rubber buffers.
>
> You should be able to access the mounts by merely removing the nose
> cowling.  You'll see small nuts holding the buffer screws.
>
> I merely used JB Weld to re-attach the head of the screw to the
rubber
> again, let it set well, and then re-used them.
>
> Your instrument cluster will stop jiggling and rattling around!
>
> AJ Turner
> '96 Merlot BBBB
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "James Lyne" <jameslyne@>
wrote:
> >
> >
> > My instruments have come loose...  The speedo and other clocks
seem
> > to have lost their screw on the left hand side as you look at
them.
> > They are loose and vibrate quite a bit.  My question before I
remove
> > a couple of hours worth of plastic is this...  Can I get to them
from
> > beneath, and what sort of screw or bolt do I need to have handy
to
> > fix them back.
> >
>

I don't know if you can buy JB Weld in Europe,  but I'm sure there is some
type of similar epoxy product sold there.

JB Weld will glue anything to anything and will hold like iron.  I did this
repair once, several years ago and have never had a problem with them since.

AJ Turner
'96 Merlot BBBB


----- Original Message -----
From: "urco" <bobbiesthere@...>


--An engineer friend, with a long-term Guzzi and his'n'hers Triumph
Adventurers, tried this on the rubber buffers holding the rear lamp,
but found the repair did not last well.

- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "AJ Turner" <aj-turner@...>
wrote:
>
> I merely used JB Weld to re-attach the head of the screw to the
rubber
> again, let it set well, and then re-used them.

I knocked a drill off my workbench last night, and the bit scratched
the right-side bag.  What's the best way to touch up something like
that?  I have one of the Triumph touch up paint things, but I usually
end up making a mess with it.

The previous owner of mine (or his mechanic) replaced three of mine
with a piece of rubber hose, with a screw rubbing thru the hose full-
length to the instrument panel connection.  Unfortunately, he
overtightened one of them and it pulled the plastic tube out of the
instrument panel (cracked it off the backside).  The whole setup is
doomed to failure, you can't (shouldn't) use rubber in shear like that,
the i.p. should be supported underneath.

--- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "oioiuo" <creative502000@...>
wrote:
>
> Mark
> With a standard Hagon...do you mean the standard shock without the
remote pre-load
> adjutment?
>
> Can you access the pre-load adjustment thats on top of the shock?
Easy to get to?
>
>
>
> Leon
>
> I think what Mark is saying is that the center stand is to long and
will not work once the
> bike is lowered.  I had mine cut & re-welded so it now works fine.
>
>
> The bike is soooo much nicer lowered...handling all around is better
>
>
> --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "L.C.S." LCSnews@ wrote:
> >
> > Hey Mark,
> >
> > So you're saying that the bike handles much better lowered, but that
> > you can only use the center stand?
> >
> > best, Leon
> >
> > --- In TriumphTrophy@yahoogroups.com, "MARK BAGSHAW" <mclbiker@>
wrote:
> > >
> > > I FITTED A 'STANDARD' LOWERED HAGON SHOCK WITH THEIR PROGRESSIVE
FORK
> > > SPRINGS [20MM I THINK] THEN LOWERED THE FRONT BY 10MM THROUGH THE
YOLKS.
> > > YOU CANNOT USE THE MAIN STAND BUT I DONT HAVE A PROBLEM ON
CORNERS,
> > > NEITHER DO I HANG ABOUT. THESE CHANGES CONVINCED ME TO KEEP THE
BIKE,
> > > AS I CAN KNOW MOVE THE BIKE AROUND A LOT EASIER.
> > >
> >
>

In a message dated 12/3/2006 8:45:37 PM GMT Standard Time,
tlcoulter@... writes:




I knocked a drill off my workbench last night, and the bit scratched
the  right-side bag. What's the best way to touch up something like
that? I have  one of the Triumph touch up paint things, but I usually
end up making a  mess with it.






smear filler over the offended area, sand until smooth, maybe filler  primer,
rub again, then colour coat rub again and last the clear coat
Finish use rubbing compound and T Cut
With all the rub downs its VITAL you put detergent in the water to keep the
grease from hands off the surface. You will not reseist touching it.
If its BRG use Fruit Green Ford

Cofion  (Regards in Welsh)

John Bonnewell Secretary _Blue Knights Wales 1_ (http://www.bkwales1.co.uk/)
(Charter Member)  Riedio y balchder
Welsh Guards Association.
British Legion Riders Branch.  Support our Troops
Triumph M/C  Owners Club




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hello everyone

I have had my 99 trophy 900 for three weeks (lovely to ride), and twice the
engine has just died for no apparent reason. After a few moments it stars
again and Im on my merry way. The mechanic at Eddies Leeds could not give
me a clue, so is there anyone out there who has had the same problem and
cured it. Its managable around town
but on the motorway it could cause a serious accident.

regards,  Pete
--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/engine-cuts-out-tf2752059.html#a7676683
Sent from the Triumph Trophy mailing list archive at Nabble.com.