Just thinking out loud, but why not at the back of the van?
My
Audi V8 oil cooler was visible if you looked straight at the back of the
van - so 1/2 of it was below the body and the other half above. Lots
of air flow there and in the years that I had it there no trauma from
rocks or the like.
David Marshall VW Adventure
Driver and BMW Adventure Rider
HasenWerk http://www.hasenwerk.ca
On Tue, February 2, 2010 07:24,
thewestfaliaman wrote: > Tried that one the white Syncro on my
site - there just is no room to move > the radiator. If you want
the intercooler radiator to cool efficiently, it > HAS to be in
the high-pressure airstream, i.e. the nose of the van, >
somewhere. > > Karl > www.westyventures.com > > --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "David"
<dphelps17@...> wrote: >> >> Does anyone have
any good ideas for an air/water intercooler radiator >> that
doesnt show? I purchased the 26x7x2 radiator from frozenboost.com >> to mount on the lower grill but I've decided I want it hidden. I am >> running AC so there isnt much room behind the gril. Has
anyone ever >> moved the radiator back slightly and used a
1" thick radiator in front >> of the AC condensor to cool
the intercooler? They sell a 24x12x1 unit >> that may work. > > > >
I am thinking of deleting the left side rear window of my van and replacing it with sheet metal, like a cargo van. Then I want to use this as the area for perforations (a/c connection, water filler, etc) instead of making holes in the body. I have often thought that this would be a good place to add an air scoop, essentially extending from the stock location forward, and then building some duct work for a larger intercooler radiator inside the cabin, within the cabinetry above the engine compartment. Just a thought at this point. I haven't mocked anything up yet. I always thought that window in a westy was kind of a waste since it's mostly covered with cabinets. I will be building my own interior, so I see that rear quarter area as a good place for these kinds of "extras"
734.891.1416 MOBILE 248.246.8031 OFFICE 248.246.1159 FAX
GONTINA BUILDING & DESIGN
22967 WOODWARD AVENUE #203 FERNDALE, MI 48220
-----Original Message----- From: TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com [mailto:TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David Marshall Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 1:01 PM To: TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [TDI-conversion] Re: Air water intercooler radiator
Just thinking out loud, but why not at the back of the van?
My Audi V8 oil cooler was visible if you looked straight at the back of the van - so 1/2 of it was below the body and the other half above. Lots of air flow there and in the years that I had it there no trauma from rocks or the like.
David Marshall VW Adventure Driver and BMW Adventure Rider
HasenWerk http://www.hasenwerk.ca
On Tue, February 2, 2010 07:24, thewestfaliaman wrote: > Tried that one the white Syncro on my site - there just is no room to move > the radiator. If you want the intercooler radiator to cool efficiently, it > HAS to be in the high-pressure airstream, i.e. the nose of the van, > somewhere. > > Karl > www.westyventures.com > > --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dphelps17@...> wrote: >> >> Does anyone have any good ideas for an air/water intercooler radiator >> that doesnt show? I purchased the 26x7x2 radiator from frozenboost.com >> to mount on the lower grill but I've decided I want it hidden. I am >> running AC so there isnt much room behind the gril. Has anyone ever >> moved the radiator back slightly and used a 1" thick radiator in front >> of the AC condensor to cool the intercooler? They sell a 24x12x1 unit >> that may work. > > > >
No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2662 - Release Date: 02/01/10 12:37:00
"I have seen Karl's set up. very cool but I still want something that > doesn't show at all."
that's easy if you put the IC radiator where the spare tire is.
which means the spare has to go somewhere else.
so far, I don't think there is the combination of .....
AC is retained,
spare tire is in stock location,
IC radiator doesn't show anywhere.
Karl's thing looks factory, no kidding.
you wouldn't even notice it, integrated into the upper center portion of the fiberglass bumper.
It's a long thin IC , like 20 inches long, 4 inches thick, 5 inches tall, something like that.
gorgeously integrated.
Having the IC radiator horizontal where the spare tire was ...
I have two thoughts on that ...
one, I 'suppose' the air flow through and out of it is all right .
two....it's vulnerable to rocks and whatnot off road.
Karl's deal solves all those issues,.......I wouldn't even say it 'shows' and anytime you can make something slick enough to look factory, and it meets all the requirements of a good design ...that is the goal as far as I am concerned, factory looking and factory working.
Like a good manufacturer would do it.
Now "That" impresses me.
I'm big on this too - nothing sticks out, hangs down, or is any way vulnerable under the van, on the sides, or on the top, like a manufacturer would do it.
Remember those oil coolers people hung off the rear side of there old air-cooled Buses ?.
those always gave me a laugh -- hit that against a tree, or a pole, or trucks sideswipes the van and hits that thing - likely you are dead in the water right there. That ain't good design. No manufacturer would turn out a vehicle with that vulnerability on it.
Karl's thing is totally artful, functional, and elegant. - If you believe in water cooled IC's.
I could well imagine the heat soak and recovering time could be 'less direct' than with an air IC.
Some experiments would be in order to determine that.
Subject: Re: [TDI-conversion] Re: Air water intercooler radiator
I went the water-cooled route and I don't think I would do it again. I had a PWD 4x6" bullet intercooler and it worked for most applications, but going up a long hill it did become heat soaked and took a long time to recover.
The Golf IV intercooler that I have in my TriStar with a fan constantly blowing on it works just as well.
If I was to do it all again with water cooled I would look at a radiator that would go where the spare tires is supposed to be and use copper or aluminium line where ever possible to offer as much heat loss as possible.
This spring if I get enough time I am going to use the first 10 sections of a logging truck intercooler on my TriStar in the same position where I had my Audi V8 oil cooler on my former camper. Short pipes between the turbo and intercooler, always in the wind and very efficient!
David Marshall VW Adventure Driver and BMW Adventure Rider
HasenWerk http://www.hasenwerk.ca
On Tue, February 2, 2010 05:52, David wrote: > I have seen karls set up. very cool but I still want something that > doesn't show at all. > > --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" > <ScottDaniel@...> wrote: >> >> one of our good guys, Karl M , made a super nice intercooler radiator >> integrated into a front fiberglass bumper. >> I saw it, super slick. Kept AC too. >> I think there are pics on his site of it . >> And he's real proud of the temp drops they are seeing with it too. >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: David >> To: TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com >> Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 7:42 PM >> Subject: [TDI-conversion] Air water intercooler radiator >> >> >> >> Does anyone have any good ideas for an air/water intercooler radiator >> that doesnt show? I purchased the 26x7x2 radiator from frozenboost.com >> to mount on the lower grill but I've decided I want it hidden. I am >> running AC so there isnt much room behind the gril. Has anyone ever >> moved the radiator back slightly and used a 1" thick radiator in front >> of the AC condensor to cool the intercooler? They sell a 24x12x1 unit >> that may work. >> Thanks >> >> Dave >> > > >
I'm listening out loud - hehe! I've thought of this rear locating
scenario but haven't come across a core the right config to fit. Nor
one big enough that I thought would handle the job. Where exactly
did you locate the oil cooler?
On Feb 2, 2010, at 12:00 PM, David Marshall wrote:
> Just thinking out loud, but why not at the back of the van?
>
> My Audi V8 oil cooler was visible if you looked straight at the
> back of the van - so 1/2 of it was below the body and the other
> half above. Lots of air flow there and in the years that I had it
> there no trauma from rocks or the like.
>
>
Herman recently posted something about locating his IC radiator up in the
luggage rack of his Westy. He had some preliminary pics of the pipes:
http://tinyurl.com/yexmpwj
I'd be curious to know how he's routing the lines--perhaps up through the
b-pillar?
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dphelps17@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any good ideas for an air/water intercooler radiator that
doesnt show? I purchased the 26x7x2 radiator from frozenboost.com to mount on
the lower grill but I've decided I want it hidden. I am running AC so there
isnt much room behind the gril. Has anyone ever moved the radiator back slightly
and used a 1" thick radiator in front of the AC condensor to cool the
intercooler? They sell a 24x12x1 unit that may work.
> Thanks
>
> Dave
>
It was on the "center to passenger side" of the rear wall
section of the engine compartment. I didn't have an exhaust that
went across the back so there was lots of room there.
Building
a radiator like that wouldn't be hard. I have a few logging truck
intercoolers here that are larger and thicker than a T3 radiator!
The end caps are alu, so I just cut three or four rows off of it, weld the
ends closed / install a pipe fitting and away I go. I guess it is
quite common for them to get sticks and rocks thru them, so I can get them
for the price of the scrap aluminium.
David Marshall VW Adventure Driver and BMW Adventure Rider
HasenWerk http://www.hasenwerk.ca
On Tue, February 2, 2010 10:36,
Michael Buck wrote: > I'm listening out loud - hehe! I've
thought of this rear locating > scenario but haven't come across a
core the right config to fit. Nor > one big enough that I thought
would handle the job. Where exactly > did you locate the oil
cooler? > > On Feb 2, 2010, at 12:00 PM, David Marshall
wrote: > >> Just thinking out loud, but why not at the
back of the van? >> >> My Audi V8 oil cooler was
visible if you looked straight at the >> back of the van - so
1/2 of it was below the body and the other >> half above. Lots
of air flow there and in the years that I had it >> there no
trauma from rocks or the like. >> >> > >
There is really only one area of true high pressure air, and that is in the
frontal area, this is where the best cooling will take place. The spare tire
well, side scoops, etc get air flow but not necessarily high pressure, and fans
doing the work are really making a system no better than an air/air system.
Prior to going with the setup I installed in the white Syncro (pics are on my
site), I found a radiator made in Europe that would have fit perfectly behind
the upper grille, out of sight. The 'but': they were sold out and no more plans
to make more. IIRC, it was about 27" long, 5" tall, and 1.5" or 2" thick. I'm
sure a good radiator fabrication shop could make one to our specs for $400 (I
found someone who could), a lot less if we had a group of folks that wanted the
same thing. ;-)
Karl
www.westyventures.com
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, Michael Buck <michaelbuck@...> wrote:
>
> I'm listening out loud - hehe! I've thought of this rear locating
> scenario but haven't come across a core the right config to fit. Nor
> one big enough that I thought would handle the job. Where exactly
> did you locate the oil cooler?
High pressure is not what is necessary for flow or cooling, but rather pressure differential. While it is certainly easy to get a good pressure differential when you start with a high pressure such as the nose of a vehicle, it is not impossible to do so when going from a not quite as high pressure to a lower pressure (negative pressure behind the vehicle).
Andrew
On Tue, Feb 2, 2010 at 3:34 PM, thewestfaliaman <groups@...> wrote:
There is really only one area of true high pressure air, and that is in the frontal area, this is where the best cooling will take place.
Great idea. Keep us posted. Love to see it. You should start a kit.
Scott Greiner,
Mesa, AZ.
From: Timothy Risk <timrisk@...> To: TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tue, February 2, 2010 11:17:34 AM Subject: RE: [TDI-conversion] Re: Air water intercooler radiator
I am thinking of deleting the left side rear window of my van and replacing it with sheet metal, like a cargo van. Then I want to use this as the area for perforations (a/c connection, water filler, etc) instead of making holes in the body. I have often thought that this would be a good place to add an air scoop, essentially extending from the stock location forward, and then building some duct work for a larger intercooler radiator inside the cabin, within the cabinetry above the engine compartment. Just a thought at this point. I haven't mocked anything up yet. I always thought that window in a westy was kind of a waste since it's mostly covered with cabinets. I will be building my own interior, so I see that rear quarter area as a good place for these kinds of "extras"
734.891.1416 MOBILE 248.246.8031 OFFICE 248.246.1159 FAX
GONTINA BUILDING & DESIGN
22967 WOODWARD AVENUE #203 FERNDALE, MI 48220
-----Original Message----- From: TDI-conversion@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:TDI- conversion@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of David Marshall Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 1:01 PM To: TDI-conversion@ yahoogroups. com Subject: Re: [TDI-conversion] Re: Air water intercooler radiator
Just thinking out loud, but why not at the back of the van?
My Audi V8 oil cooler was visible if you looked straight at the back of the van - so 1/2 of it was below the body and the other half above. Lots of air flow there and in the years that I had it there no trauma from rocks or the like.
David Marshall VW Adventure Driver and BMW Adventure Rider
On Tue, February 2, 2010 07:24, thewestfaliaman wrote: > Tried that one the white Syncro on my site - there just is no room to move > the radiator. If you want the intercooler radiator to cool efficiently, it > HAS to be in the high-pressure airstream, i.e. the nose of the van, > somewhere. > > Karl > www.westyventures. com > > --- In TDI-conversion@ yahoogroups. com, "David" <dphelps17@.. .> wrote: >> >>
Does anyone have any good ideas for an air/water intercooler radiator >> that doesnt show? I purchased the 26x7x2 radiator from frozenboost. com >> to mount on the lower grill but I've decided I want it hidden. I am >> running AC so there isnt much room behind the gril. Has anyone ever >> moved the radiator back slightly and used a 1" thick radiator in front >> of the AC condensor to cool the intercooler? They sell a 24x12x1 unit >> that may work. > > > >
No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2662 - Release Date: 02/01/10 12:37:00
Technically correct, but will never achieve nearly as much in the rear. Not even
half, I'd bet.
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew .Libby" <libbybapa@...> wrote:
>
> High pressure is not what is necessary for flow or cooling, but rather
> pressure differential. While it is certainly easy to get a good pressure
> differential when you start with a high pressure such as the nose of a
> vehicle, it is not impossible to do so when going from a not quite as high
> pressure to a lower pressure (negative pressure behind the vehicle).
You've been busy! Very nice. Thanks for posting the photos.
Brent
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "kev_p_oh" <kevinpboh@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
> I finally got around to uploading pics of my project into the group's albums
here:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ya78wbc
>
> Would also like to take the opportunity to thank everyone on this forum for
past (and ongoing) help with this project. Before plunging into the conversion,
my mechanical experience quite literally consisted of an oil change here and
there, so kudos to the gurus for humoring me. Special thanks to Karl, Justin,
Brent, David M., David R., Scott, Zach (where is he, btw?), Mark, et al. No
doubt you all will recognize many of your own designs and innovations in my
vehicle...so credit where credit is due.
>
> My first trip out of the neighborhood was to the DMV to get it registered, the
2nd trip was a fully loaded cross country move from AZ to NY (note: not
recommended). Only problem encountered was some leaky intercooler hose
connections. Knock on wood :)
>
> Cheers,
> Kevin
>
> Some specs:
>
> -recipient: 1987 Vanagon Westfalia 2WD (one owner, ~276K(!!) miles)
>
> -donors: 1987 Syncro GL 7-passenger, 1998 Jetta TDI (~73K miles)
>
> -Syncro conversion: front end and subframe powercoated/POR15
>
> -'AHU' TDI motor installed at 50* w/ DV mounts, Syncro diesel tank, and Syncro
TD engine carrier bars
>
> -full electronic conversion w/ cruise control, MkIV pedal
>
> -upgraded Passat V6 oil cooler
>
> -Blackstone Saab intercooler w/ 10" fan
>
> -Donaldson FPG air cleaner
>
> -transaxle w/ rear locking diff, regeared to 1.18 3rd, 0.7 4th
>
> -Audi G60 dual piston front brakes upgrade
>
> -driveshaft decoupler (VC retained)
>
> -15" Audi alloys w/ 215/75R15 Kumho RoadVenture AT tires
>
> -Rocky Mountain Westy rear tube bumper
>
Congratulations on finishing your conversion. Well, are they are really ever
finished? How do you like the accel pedal location? Mine ended up in the same
spot. It is ok, but the cruise control does most of the work. I have a small
wood block on the floor to locate my heel. I am in the process of adapting the
stock accel pedal to work with the Golf pedal. I think it will work out easier
than I originally imagined. mark
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "trailnewt" <obrentharris@...> wrote:
>
> You've been busy! Very nice. Thanks for posting the photos.
> Brent
>
> --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "kev_p_oh" <kevinpboh@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> > I finally got around to uploading pics of my project into the group's albums
here:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/ya78wbc
> >
> > Would also like to take the opportunity to thank everyone on this forum for
past (and ongoing) help with this project. Before plunging into the conversion,
my mechanical experience quite literally consisted of an oil change here and
there, so kudos to the gurus for humoring me. Special thanks to Karl, Justin,
Brent, David M., David R., Scott, Zach (where is he, btw?), Mark, et al. No
doubt you all will recognize many of your own designs and innovations in my
vehicle...so credit where credit is due.
> >
> > My first trip out of the neighborhood was to the DMV to get it registered,
the 2nd trip was a fully loaded cross country move from AZ to NY (note: not
recommended). Only problem encountered was some leaky intercooler hose
connections. Knock on wood :)
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Kevin
> >
> > Some specs:
> >
> > -recipient: 1987 Vanagon Westfalia 2WD (one owner, ~276K(!!) miles)
> >
> > -donors: 1987 Syncro GL 7-passenger, 1998 Jetta TDI (~73K miles)
> >
> > -Syncro conversion: front end and subframe powercoated/POR15
> >
> > -'AHU' TDI motor installed at 50* w/ DV mounts, Syncro diesel tank, and
Syncro TD engine carrier bars
> >
> > -full electronic conversion w/ cruise control, MkIV pedal
> >
> > -upgraded Passat V6 oil cooler
> >
> > -Blackstone Saab intercooler w/ 10" fan
> >
> > -Donaldson FPG air cleaner
> >
> > -transaxle w/ rear locking diff, regeared to 1.18 3rd, 0.7 4th
> >
> > -Audi G60 dual piston front brakes upgrade
> >
> > -driveshaft decoupler (VC retained)
> >
> > -15" Audi alloys w/ 215/75R15 Kumho RoadVenture AT tires
> >
> > -Rocky Mountain Westy rear tube bumper
> >
>
Ha! Yes--I use the term 'completed project' in the loosest sense. I've actually
had most of these photos since last August, waiting to post them until I was
100% satisfied with everything, which clearly will never happen :)
And yes--I find the pedal is fine around town, but a serious knee killer on
longer trips. Cruise control is a must!
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "teamloxracing" <nospam@...> wrote:
>
> Congratulations on finishing your conversion. Well, are they are really ever
finished? How do you like the accel pedal location? Mine ended up in the same
spot. It is ok, but the cruise control does most of the work. I have a small
wood block on the floor to locate my heel. I am in the process of adapting the
stock accel pedal to work with the Golf pedal. I think it will work out easier
than I originally imagined. mark
>
> --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "trailnewt" <obrentharris@> wrote:
> >
> > You've been busy! Very nice. Thanks for posting the photos.
> > Brent
> >
> > --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "kev_p_oh" <kevinpboh@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi All,
> > > I finally got around to uploading pics of my project into the group's
albums here:
> > >
> > > http://tinyurl.com/ya78wbc
> > >
> > > Would also like to take the opportunity to thank everyone on this forum
for past (and ongoing) help with this project. Before plunging into the
conversion, my mechanical experience quite literally consisted of an oil change
here and there, so kudos to the gurus for humoring me. Special thanks to Karl,
Justin, Brent, David M., David R., Scott, Zach (where is he, btw?), Mark, et al.
No doubt you all will recognize many of your own designs and innovations in my
vehicle...so credit where credit is due.
> > >
> > > My first trip out of the neighborhood was to the DMV to get it registered,
the 2nd trip was a fully loaded cross country move from AZ to NY (note: not
recommended). Only problem encountered was some leaky intercooler hose
connections. Knock on wood :)
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Kevin
> > >
> > > Some specs:
> > >
> > > -recipient: 1987 Vanagon Westfalia 2WD (one owner, ~276K(!!) miles)
> > >
> > > -donors: 1987 Syncro GL 7-passenger, 1998 Jetta TDI (~73K miles)
> > >
> > > -Syncro conversion: front end and subframe powercoated/POR15
> > >
> > > -'AHU' TDI motor installed at 50* w/ DV mounts, Syncro diesel tank, and
Syncro TD engine carrier bars
> > >
> > > -full electronic conversion w/ cruise control, MkIV pedal
> > >
> > > -upgraded Passat V6 oil cooler
> > >
> > > -Blackstone Saab intercooler w/ 10" fan
> > >
> > > -Donaldson FPG air cleaner
> > >
> > > -transaxle w/ rear locking diff, regeared to 1.18 3rd, 0.7 4th
> > >
> > > -Audi G60 dual piston front brakes upgrade
> > >
> > > -driveshaft decoupler (VC retained)
> > >
> > > -15" Audi alloys w/ 215/75R15 Kumho RoadVenture AT tires
> > >
> > > -Rocky Mountain Westy rear tube bumper
> > >
> >
>
I should have my trans back Friday with a 1.14 and .70 4th. When running a
diesel input shaft, WBX clutch disc and VR6 pressure plate where does the
bellhousing usually need grinding? I have already removed the two tabs from the
PP.
Thanks
Dave
89 AHU westy in progress
IIRC, there's some variation among bellhousings... I used the VR6 PP as well,
and only had to grind down the tabs. In the archives you'll find other mention
having to grind off a bit of the bellhousing material as well...somewhere near
the cross shaft I believe. If your flywheel isn't already mounted, you might try
a mock up by bolting the pressure plate and clutch disk to it, and then hold it
up on the input shaft and rotate to see if there is any interference. -Kevin
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dphelps17@...> wrote:
>
> I should have my trans back Friday with a 1.14 and .70 4th. When running a
diesel input shaft, WBX clutch disc and VR6 pressure plate where does the
bellhousing usually need grinding? I have already removed the two tabs from the
PP.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave
> 89 AHU westy in progress
>
Like Kevin said this is somewhat variable depending on the bellhousing. One
place that often has to be ground down a very small amount is the nose of the
starter, specifically the end where the captive bushing sits, on the surface
facing the flywheel when installed. The best approach is to grind a little then
mate the trans/engine, and turn eng. over by hand. If free a full revolution,
install the starter, torque down and turn over by hand again. If bound, remove
starter and take a little bit more off the nose and repeat the process until you
verify that the engine spins free a complete 360* with the trans/starter/engine
all torqued down.
justin
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "kev_p_oh" <kevinpboh@...> wrote:
>
> IIRC, there's some variation among bellhousings... I used the VR6 PP as well,
and only had to grind down the tabs. In the archives you'll find other mention
having to grind off a bit of the bellhousing material as well...somewhere near
the cross shaft I believe. If your flywheel isn't already mounted, you might try
a mock up by bolting the pressure plate and clutch disk to it, and then hold it
up on the input shaft and rotate to see if there is any interference. -Kevin
>
> --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dphelps17@> wrote:
> >
> > I should have my trans back Friday with a 1.14 and .70 4th. When running a
diesel input shaft, WBX clutch disc and VR6 pressure plate where does the
bellhousing usually need grinding? I have already removed the two tabs from the
PP.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Dave
> > 89 AHU westy in progress
> >
>
As with most of my things, I'm a hack. So when I installed mine I ground tabs and put it together. When I first started it up, there was some metal on metal noise as the PP and BH sorted themselves out. lol Probably not advised but that's my story. I admire you all who are so forward thinking and cautious.
> > --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dphelps17@> wrote: > > > > I should have my trans back Friday with a 1.14 and .70 4th. When running a diesel input shaft, WBX clutch disc and VR6 pressure plate where does the bellhousing usually need grinding? I have already removed the two tabs from the PP. > > > > Thanks > > > > Dave > > 89 AHU westy in progress > > >
For those that want to see the front IC radiator we are talking about plus other
photos during the conversion AND after, start with this link to my Photo-Bucket
site. You should be able to go back and forward through the almost 70 photos.
More to come.
I left comments on all of the photos but for some reason, Photo Bucket dumped
them when I was done with selecting and adding comments.. Dang Software!!
http://tinyurl.com/yztuj35
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "thewestfaliaman" <groups@...> wrote:
>
> Technically correct, but will never achieve nearly as much in the rear. Not
even half, I'd bet.
>
> --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew .Libby" <libbybapa@> wrote:
> >
> > High pressure is not what is necessary for flow or cooling, but rather
> > pressure differential. While it is certainly easy to get a good pressure
> > differential when you start with a high pressure such as the nose of a
> > vehicle, it is not impossible to do so when going from a not quite as high
> > pressure to a lower pressure (negative pressure behind the vehicle).
>
Thanks for the responses. Is it still necessary to grind the end of the starter
down if you are using a Karl adapter plate that uses the MKIV TDI starter?
Thanks
Dave
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "Justin" <justin@...> wrote:
>
> Like Kevin said this is somewhat variable depending on the bellhousing. One
place that often has to be ground down a very small amount is the nose of the
starter, specifically the end where the captive bushing sits, on the surface
facing the flywheel when installed. The best approach is to grind a little then
mate the trans/engine, and turn eng. over by hand. If free a full revolution,
install the starter, torque down and turn over by hand again. If bound, remove
starter and take a little bit more off the nose and repeat the process until you
verify that the engine spins free a complete 360* with the trans/starter/engine
all torqued down.
>
> justin
>
> --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "kev_p_oh" <kevinpboh@> wrote:
> >
> > IIRC, there's some variation among bellhousings... I used the VR6 PP as
well, and only had to grind down the tabs. In the archives you'll find other
mention having to grind off a bit of the bellhousing material as
well...somewhere near the cross shaft I believe. If your flywheel isn't already
mounted, you might try a mock up by bolting the pressure plate and clutch disk
to it, and then hold it up on the input shaft and rotate to see if there is any
interference. -Kevin
> >
> > --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dphelps17@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I should have my trans back Friday with a 1.14 and .70 4th. When running
a diesel input shaft, WBX clutch disc and VR6 pressure plate where does the
bellhousing usually need grinding? I have already removed the two tabs from the
PP.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Dave
> > > 89 AHU westy in progress
> > >
> >
>
Thanks for posting those photos Curt. Any idea where that radiator came from?
The only ones I can find are 26" long and it looks like yours is a few inches
shorter than that.
Thanks
Dave
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "Curt" <jc-long@...> wrote:
>
> For those that want to see the front IC radiator we are talking about plus
other photos during the conversion AND after, start with this link to my
Photo-Bucket site. You should be able to go back and forward through the almost
70 photos. More to come.
>
> I left comments on all of the photos but for some reason, Photo Bucket dumped
them when I was done with selecting and adding comments.. Dang Software!!
>
> http://tinyurl.com/yztuj35
>
www.cxracing.com
BUT, they no longer list that model for whatever reason.
The type 118 at www.siliconeintakes.com is close, so perhaps that could be used?
Karl
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dphelps17@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for posting those photos Curt. Any idea where that radiator came from?
The only ones I can find are 26" long and it looks like yours is a few inches
shorter than that.
My starter adaptor plates use the TDi starter which has a self-supported gear.
These are only for conversions using a stock gasser bell housing coupled to a
Kennedy (or other) engine adaptor plate).
Karl
www.westyventures.com
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dphelps17@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the responses. Is it still necessary to grind the end of the
starter down if you are using a Karl adapter plate that uses the MKIV TDI
starter?
I have the type 118 from siliconeintakes.com down at my shop. It will work but
its slightly longer than the lower grill opening. I really dont want to cut the
sheet metal in front but I will have to if I end up using it.
Thanks
Dave
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "thewestfaliaman" <groups@...> wrote:
>
> www.cxracing.com
> BUT, they no longer list that model for whatever reason.
> The type 118 at www.siliconeintakes.com is close, so perhaps that could be
used?
>
> Karl
>
> --- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dphelps17@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for posting those photos Curt. Any idea where that radiator came
from? The only ones I can find are 26" long and it looks like yours is a few
inches shorter than that.
>
FWIW, Curt's van does have some minor sheetmetal trimming for the radiator to
fit in the opening. The stated dimensions were not quite accurate.
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dphelps17@...> wrote:
>
> I have the type 118 from siliconeintakes.com down at my shop. It will work
but its slightly longer than the lower grill opening. I really dont want to cut
the sheet metal in front but I will have to if I end up using it.
Same thing, much better price!
ebay 160401853547
--- In TDI-conversion@yahoogroups.com, "thewestfaliaman" <groups@...> wrote:
>
> I was mistaken - they DO actually still list that smaller radiator:
> ebay# 370330892540, or http://www.cxracing.com
folks, i just put a bunch of diesel stuff on ebay:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/handcracker/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=
items include serpentine / alternator brackets, canister air filter, seat
swivels, engine mounts... etc
not listed is an AHU longblock, running. 700$.
matt
moscow ID
"may the four winds blow you safely home"
Actually, come to think of it, I may be driving up to my cabin in Idaho
pretty soon, which would be convenient, save a lot on shipping a whole
bunch of heavy dirty parts.
Are you a mechanic? Could you help with a conversion?
Colin
Matthew wrote:
folks, i just put a bunch of diesel stuff on ebay:
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