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240 Ignition problem   Message List  
Reply | Forward Message #10738 of 10928 |
Re: [OzHotVolvos] 240 Ignition problem





Frank,

You could be exactly on the money. 

I am pretty sure the auxiliary air valve is on the fritz, as it won't close up when warm and doesn't open up much, even out of the freezer, hence it has to run really rich to keep an even idle speed.

It's drinking fuel at twice the rate.

The cold start valve doesn't know what to do, because the sensor is also not operating correctly?!?!?!?!

The good news is that it's going into Voldat tomorrow night for a Friday morning shakedown.

Then I can get on with the fun stuff.

I picked up a Ford AU Watts Link for $5 on ebay. I will make the existing end links adjustable with L/R hand high tensile tie rod bolts and similarly the Watts link, and splice them together.

I have a design I'm working on, to mount a diff-centre bracket. 

I have seen some very simple ones for late model Mustangs, using u bolts on the axle tubes, but that is a bit agricultural. 

I'm considering a webbed right angle bracket bolted to the side of the diff carrier, utilising the bolt holes on the right hand side (viewed from the rear), or welding a mount the the diff housing cover plate as has been done by others.

This will allow for some lowering capacity, maintaining good geometry.

The front is a whole other story!





 



Regards

Stephen P. Taranto


TELEPHONE        Fixed Line     : +61 (0) 3 9787 2149                 POST               : P.O.Box 457, Mt.Eliza, Victoria 3930, Australia
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Wed Jul 8, 2009 8:36 am

taranto_stephen
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Message #10738 of 10928 |
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I have been having this intermittent ignition fault. Originally I thought it was a fuel problem. Vapourisation or something. Blocked fuel filter. It began with...
stephen taranto
taranto_stephen
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Apr 1, 2009
9:58 am

I've been going through something similar for the past few months with my '85 740. Would cut out whilst driving, or wouldn't start some days, or just after...
johnno
volvonaut
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Apr 1, 2009
12:11 pm

The first few symptoms you describe sound like a bad fuel accumulator. I changed mine out for one from a wreckers and it fixed the issues fine. What you...
Frank Csapo II
fcsapo77
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Apr 1, 2009
12:15 pm

I would have said fuel system too (had it not been for the dash lights), but there was no coughing or spluttering and it just cut out dead while driving. I did...
stephen taranto
taranto_stephen
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Apr 1, 2009
12:40 pm

I guess the first thing is to work out whether its electrical or fuel. Easier said than done. Make a short lead (10 cm or so) with a male spade connector on...
Steve Abbott
stevejabb
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Apr 1, 2009
9:40 pm

Frank, You could be exactly on the money. I am pretty sure the auxiliary air valve is on the fritz, as it won't close up when warm and doesn't open up much,...
Taranto Stephen
taranto_stephen
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Jul 8, 2009
8:36 am

Stephen, For a 240 you need you need to say if K-Jet or efi LH system. If K-jet the cold start injector, easy to check (they need that bit extra even when...
Anthony Hyde
tosh1e
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Apr 1, 2009
10:26 pm

It's a '85 mechanical injection. The basic symptoms are: Starts and runs normally from cold. When it stops the battery light comes on for a bit then goes out. ...
stephen taranto
taranto_stephen
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Apr 2, 2009
1:29 am

Any chance that it is a faulty ignition switch or power supply to same? I can't figure out where else there is a confluence of dash lights and ignition. ...
Stephen Coutts-Smith
couttsy22
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Apr 2, 2009
1:33 am

Just pulled the cold start lead and the one with the diaphram thingy near it and tried to start it cold. It started and ran. No effect in dash lights. I guess...
stephen taranto
taranto_stephen
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Apr 2, 2009
2:46 am

My '85 740 has 'mechanical' (CIS) injection too, but it still has an ECU; it just controls other engine things, but not electronic injection - '86 onwards have...
johnno
volvonaut
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Apr 2, 2009
1:58 am

An 85 model, a rare one year B230E version with hall sensor ignition, a crossover model with EFI the next year. I own one. The first prime suspect is the...
Anthony Hyde
tosh1e
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Apr 2, 2009
2:51 am

With a Breaker type distributor? Where is the sensor? Have swapped in a second hand Alternator from 244DL a few years ago! Could be a problem!?!?!?...
stephen taranto
taranto_stephen
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Apr 2, 2009
3:40 am

http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Electrical-Ignition1.html#Hall%20Switch%20Distributor%20Connector That may well be the problem. I will check there next....
stephen taranto
taranto_stephen
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Apr 2, 2009
6:42 am

http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Electrical- That just about sounds like the thing, although the model is different, the principle should be the same I...
stephen taranto
taranto_stephen
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Apr 2, 2009
6:10 am

Try something simple like retension all the fuse holder ends, and give the fuses a rotate. Their not the most reliable type of fuse and will do what you...
Peter Norris
knuts2au
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Apr 2, 2009
9:36 am

I'll try that too. I just cleaned out all the Hall sensor connections and the cold start connections and the fuel sensor connection on the manifold. so far so...
stephen taranto
taranto_stephen
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Apr 2, 2009
9:57 am

Stopped three times today, which means it started three times too, which in it self is infuriating. I have sprayeed all the connections with brake cleaner in a...
stephen taranto
taranto_stephen
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Apr 3, 2009
1:46 am

Stephen This is where we all need a parts car next door to substitute bits. Things are getting difficult. Have you been able to substitute another fuel relay? ...
Anthony Hyde
tosh1e
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Apr 3, 2009
5:05 am

So far, having cleaned all the electrical connections to fuel and distributer with brake cleaner, the 240 has not stopped or failed to start. I even gave the...
stephen taranto
taranto_stephen
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Apr 4, 2009
12:16 am

Saturday: Going ok. Only two incidents of stopping and failing to restart. But, runnung really well otherwise. Sunday: Not so good. First drive erratic idle...
stephen taranto
taranto_stephen
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Apr 5, 2009
11:26 pm
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