Charles, I am getting emails from the yahoo group here that should be
going there.  Que pasa?  Shiny Mike.





On Sep 14, 2005, at 6:35 PM, jtsjf wrote:

> I heard a rumor that Giulio Carcano has passed away, joining Tonti and
> most recently,
> Todero.
> Raise a glass of your favorite beverage for the man who designed the
> "loopframe" as well
> as the Guzzi V8 racer.
>
> Let's see-the so called big block motor has been in production from
> 1967- 2005...that's a
> hell of a legacy for a great, great motorcycle.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Thanks for setting this up.. I prefer this layout to the Topica way of
doing things..

one thing though, my full e-mail address appears when I post, but I
noticed other people have an edited version of theirs?? just wondered
how to do this, I've searched through 'membership settings'and cant
see an option to do this??

Thanks
Neil.

Hi Dave,

The reason that I remove the pinion carrier is because there is
either an o-ring or a gasket between the pinion carrier and the
drive body (I can't remember which is there, as they vary from model
to model - may even be both with that style rear drive). Anyway, I
remove the pinion carrier so I don't bake the gasket/o-ring in the
oven.

The purpose of heating the rear drive is to get the outer race of
the needle bearing to drop out of the case. The aluminum case
expands more quickly when heated than the steel race. Therefore, if
you heat the unit up, you have a good chance of getting the race to
just drop right out by the force of gravity! This technique has
worked really well for me. As for the brass ring...it is a loose fit
and simply drops right in/out without any heating necessary.

One more thing I forgot to mention yesterday...the job is a little
easier if you drive out the steel spacer from the middle of the rear
drive housing. This is the spacer through which the axle is
inserted. Just use a suitable driver (correctly sized socket or an
actual driver) to drive it out from the outside of the box.

Regards,

Greg Bender

--- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, david kasakitis
<dkasakitis@y...> wrote:
> Greg, thanks much.  That doesn't seem like a difficult job.  One
question though, do I need to be removing the bearing carrier
holding the pinion to do the work described or can I let this in
place.
>
> By the way, I have both of Pete's 'articles' and can't find the
heating repair process you are referring to.  From what I gather you
heat the drive box so that the brass/copper ring washer comes out
easily.
>
> Thanks, Dave K.
>
> Greg Bender <greg@t...> wrote:
> Hi Dave,
>
> Yes, the small outer seal is the one that is inside the drive box.
I
> only refer to it as the "outer" seal because it is further out
from
> the center line of the motorcycle. The large inner seals do tend
to
> be a little more problematic. But, on a bike as old as ours, the
> small outer one should be addressed, too. Here are the abbreviated
> steps:
>
> 1. Remove rear drive from bike (drain the oil from it, too).
> 2. Remove the flange. Throw away the bendy tabs and replace them
> with schnoor washers (all the new models use them, so no problem
> there).
> 3. Remove the crown wheel/hub assembly from the flange. It should
> just pull out, but may be a little stuck.
> 4. Remove the seal from the flange and install the new one. Take
> care to ensure the mating surfaces are smooth and I always grease
> both surfaces. While you are at it, remove both flange gaskets and
> the flange shim - replace the gaskets and reuse the shim.
> 5. Remove the staked screw and plate that prevent the outer race
of
> the needle bearing from walking out of the housing.
> 6. Remove the needle bearing.
> 7. Remove the pinion carrier. This should simply pull out but it
> might be a little stubborn. Patience and a rubber mallot go a long
> way.
> 8. At this point, you should have an empty rear drive except for
> outer race of the needle bearing, the small inner seal, and the
> copper ring washer that separates the two. If you are extremely
> lucky, you will be able to pull the race out with your fingers
> (insert laughter here). Now, you could try and pull the race out,
> and I've done that, but the easiest trick is the heating technique
> that Pete Roper talks about. The first time I just heated the oven
> to 400 degrees F and set it on a cookie sheet. Dropped right out
> after 10 or 20 minutes. It stunk up the house something fierce and
> the wife was none to pleased. Now I use a Betty Crocker Roaster
> Oven - bought it at Home Depot for $30 around Christmas time.
Works
> like a charm!
> 9. reassembly is generally the reverse of disassembly, but take
care
> to install the inner seal in the correct direction - the 'open'
part
> of the seal should face you as you insert the seal.
>
> I've probably forgotten a few details, so just inquire away. Rest
> assured that since you are not re-shimming the rear drive, there
is
> very little that you can mess up unless you start gouging things,
> using giant sledgehammers, etc. If you run into trouble, don't
> hesistate to ask as a number of the board members have tackled
this
> job quite successfully.
>
> Regards,
>
> Greg Bender
>
>
> --- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, david kasakitis
> <dkasakitis@y...> wrote:
> > Greg,
> > The small outer seal is the one IN the drive box?  I was going
to
> order this but a service guy at Harper's indicated the flange seal
> is the one most problematic.
> >
> > I did get to your site for some tips but I can't seem to find
any
> step by step instructions for doing the rebuild.  I've read both
> of "Pete's" articles and neither provides step by step
instructions,
> especially are regards heating to remove a bearing.  Can you focus
> my search?
> >
> > Thanks, Dave K.
> >
> >
> > Greg Bender <greg@t...> wrote:
> > Hi Dave,
> >
> > While you are at it, I would replace the small, outer seal as
well
> > as the large inner seal. I've never used a seal driver to seat
> them.
> > I install mine flush...but then I also clean up the mating
> surfaces
> > with a scotchbrite pad, too. I've got a how-to on my website:
> >
> > http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe_rear_drive.htm
> >
> > In my experience, the results are far more favorable when all of
> the
> > gaskets, o-rings, and seals are replaced in the rear drive. And,
> > since you are not re-shimming anything, the job is TONS simpler.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Greg Bender
> >
> > --- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, "dkasakitis"
> > <dkasakitis@y...> wrote:
> > > Folks, I just purchased a restored 1970 Embassador with
12Kmi.
> > The
> > > previous owner put a rear seal when he restored it.  I had it
> > 200mi
> > > before it leaked like the Exxon Valdez all over the rim, the
> > entire
> > > right side of the tire, and 1/3 of the tread on the right
side.
> I
> > have
> > > a new seal on order as I've been told this is the most likely
> > culprit.
> > > The shop manual isn't specific about replacement.  I have
> several
> > > questions.
> > >
> > > 1. Is a seal driver necessary?  In years past on dirt bikes I
> just
> > > tapped the seal in with a hammer against a small block of wood
> and
> > just
> > > carefully worked my way around the seal.
> > >
> > > 2. Does the seal get installed flush with the highest part of
> the
> > > flange, i.e., I could span a segment of the seal with a block
of
> > wood
> > > and tap until the wood is stopped by the flange.
> > >
> > > Thanks (and thanks to Charlie for his advice on dissassembly).
> > > DaveK.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > SPONSORED LINKS
> > Moto guzzi motorcycles
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> >
> >
> >     Visit your group "Loopframe_Guzzi" on the web.
> >
> >     To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >  Loopframe_Guzzi-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >     Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! for Good
> >  Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>     Visit your group "Loopframe_Guzzi" on the web.
>
>     To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  Loopframe_Guzzi-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>     Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com

Looks like the one Harpers do???
http://www.harpermotoguzzi.com/seats2.htm

Neil

--- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <eldomike@n...> wrote:
> sorry, item number is 4575695901
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Mike
>   To: Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 7:33 AM
>   Subject: [Loopframe_Guzzi] Bike on Ebay....Passanger seat
>
>
>   Anybody know where he might have got the passanger seat??
>
>   http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moto-Guzzi-Eldorado-850-1973-Moto-
Guzzi-
>   Eldorado-not-Ambassador-or-
>   harley_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6713QQitemZ4575695901QQrdZ1
>
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
>   YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>     a..  Visit your group "Loopframe_Guzzi" on the web.
>
>     b..  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>      Loopframe_Guzzi-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>     c..  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
of Service.
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------

----- Original Message -----

From: Mike

To: Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 7:33 AM

Subject: [Loopframe_Guzzi] Bike on Ebay....Passanger seat

Anybody know where he might have got the passanger seat??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moto-Guzzi-Eldorado-850-1973-Moto-Guzzi-
Eldorado-not-Ambassador-or-
harley_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6713QQitemZ4575695901QQrdZ1

Anybody know where he might have got the passanger seat??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moto-Guzzi-Eldorado-850-1973-Moto-Guzzi-
Eldorado-not-Ambassador-or-
harley_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6713QQitemZ4575695901QQrdZ1

Hi Dave,

Yes, the small outer seal is the one that is inside the drive box. I
only refer to it as the "outer" seal because it is further out from
the center line of the motorcycle. The large inner seals do tend to
be a little more problematic. But, on a bike as old as ours, the
small outer one should be addressed, too. Here are the abbreviated
steps:

1. Remove rear drive from bike (drain the oil from it, too).
2. Remove the flange. Throw away the bendy tabs and replace them
with schnoor washers (all the new models use them, so no problem
there).
3. Remove the crown wheel/hub assembly from the flange. It should
just pull out, but may be a little stuck.
4. Remove the seal from the flange and install the new one. Take
care to ensure the mating surfaces are smooth and I always grease
both surfaces. While you are at it, remove both flange gaskets and
the flange shim - replace the gaskets and reuse the shim.
5. Remove the staked screw and plate that prevent the outer race of
the needle bearing from walking out of the housing.
6. Remove the needle bearing.
7. Remove the pinion carrier. This should simply pull out but it
might be a little stubborn. Patience and a rubber mallot go a long
way.
8. At this point, you should have an empty rear drive except for
outer race of the needle bearing, the small inner seal, and the
copper ring washer that separates the two. If you are extremely
lucky, you will be able to pull the race out with your fingers
(insert laughter here). Now, you could try and pull the race out,
and I've done that, but the easiest trick is the heating technique
that Pete Roper talks about. The first time I just heated the oven
to 400 degrees F and set it on a cookie sheet. Dropped right out
after 10 or 20 minutes. It stunk up the house something fierce and
the wife was none to pleased. Now I use a Betty Crocker Roaster
Oven - bought it at Home Depot for $30 around Christmas time. Works
like a charm!
9. reassembly is generally the reverse of disassembly, but take care
to install the inner seal in the correct direction - the 'open' part
of the seal should face you as you insert the seal.

I've probably forgotten a few details, so just inquire away. Rest
assured that since you are not re-shimming the rear drive, there is
very little that you can mess up unless you start gouging things,
using giant sledgehammers, etc. If you run into trouble, don't
hesistate to ask as a number of the board members have tackled this
job quite successfully.

Regards,

Greg Bender


--- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, david kasakitis
<dkasakitis@y...> wrote:
> Greg,
> The small outer seal is the one IN the drive box?  I was going to
order this but a service guy at Harper's indicated the flange seal
is the one most problematic.
> 
> I did get to your site for some tips but I can't seem to find any
step by step instructions for doing the rebuild.  I've read both
of "Pete's" articles and neither provides step by step instructions,
especially are regards heating to remove a bearing.  Can you focus
my search?
> 
> Thanks, Dave K.
>
>
> Greg Bender <greg@t...> wrote:
> Hi Dave,
>
> While you are at it, I would replace the small, outer seal as well
> as the large inner seal. I've never used a seal driver to seat
them.
> I install mine flush...but then I also clean up the mating
surfaces
> with a scotchbrite pad, too. I've got a how-to on my website:
>
> http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe_rear_drive.htm
>
> In my experience, the results are far more favorable when all of
the
> gaskets, o-rings, and seals are replaced in the rear drive. And,
> since you are not re-shimming anything, the job is TONS simpler.
>
> Regards,
>
> Greg Bender
>
> --- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, "dkasakitis"
> <dkasakitis@y...> wrote:
> > Folks, I just purchased a restored 1970 Embassador with 12Kmi. 
> The
> > previous owner put a rear seal when he restored it.  I had it
> 200mi
> > before it leaked like the Exxon Valdez all over the rim, the
> entire
> > right side of the tire, and 1/3 of the tread on the right side. 
I
> have
> > a new seal on order as I've been told this is the most likely
> culprit. 
> > The shop manual isn't specific about replacement.  I have
several
> > questions.
> >
> > 1. Is a seal driver necessary?  In years past on dirt bikes I
just
> > tapped the seal in with a hammer against a small block of wood
and
> just
> > carefully worked my way around the seal.
> >
> > 2. Does the seal get installed flush with the highest part of
the
> > flange, i.e., I could span a segment of the seal with a block of
> wood
> > and tap until the wood is stopped by the flange.
> >
> > Thanks (and thanks to Charlie for his advice on dissassembly).
> > DaveK.
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Moto guzzi motorcycles
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>     Visit your group "Loopframe_Guzzi" on the web.
>  
>     To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  Loopframe_Guzzi-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>  
>     Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>            
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! for Good
>  Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Hi Dave,

Yes, the small outer seal is the one that is inside the drive box. I
only refer to it as the "outer" seal because it is further out from
the center line of the motorcycle. The large inner seals do tend to
be a little more problematic. But, on a bike as old as ours, the
small outer one should be addressed, too. Here are the abbreviated
steps:

1. Remove rear drive from bike (drain the oil from it, too).
2. Remove the flange. Throw away the bendy tabs and replace them
with schnoor washers (all the new models use them, so no problem
there).
3. Remove the crown wheel/hub assembly from the flange. It should
just pull out, but may be a little stuck.
4. Remove the seal from the flange and install the new one. Take
care to ensure the mating surfaces are smooth and I always grease
both surfaces. While you are at it, remove both flange gaskets and
the flange shim - replace the gaskets and reuse the shim.
5. Remove the staked screw and plate that prevent the outer race of
the needle bearing from walking out of the housing.
6. Remove the needle bearing.
7. Remove the pinion carrier. This should simply pull out but it
might be a little stubborn. Patience and a rubber mallot go a long
way.
8. At this point, you should have an empty rear drive except for
outer race of the needle bearing, the small inner seal, and the
copper ring washer that separates the two. If you are extremely
lucky, you will be able to pull the race out with your fingers
(insert laughter here). Now, you could try and pull the race out,
and I've done that, but the easiest trick is the heating technique
that Pete Roper talks about. The first time I just heated the oven
to 400 degrees F and set it on a cookie sheet. Dropped right out
after 10 or 20 minutes. It stunk up the house something fierce and
the wife was none to pleased. Now I use a Betty Crocker Roaster
Oven - bought it at Home Depot for $30 around Christmas time. Works
like a charm!
9. reassembly is generally the reverse of disassembly, but take care
to install the inner seal in the correct direction - the 'open' part
of the seal should face you as you insert the seal.

I've probably forgotten a few details, so just inquire away. Rest
assured that since you are not re-shimming the rear drive, there is
very little that you can mess up unless you start gouging things,
using giant sledgehammers, etc. If you run into trouble, don't
hesistate to ask as a number of the board members have tackled this
job quite successfully.

Regards,

Greg Bender


--- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, david kasakitis
<dkasakitis@y...> wrote:
> Greg,
> The small outer seal is the one IN the drive box?  I was going to
order this but a service guy at Harper's indicated the flange seal
is the one most problematic.
>
> I did get to your site for some tips but I can't seem to find any
step by step instructions for doing the rebuild.  I've read both
of "Pete's" articles and neither provides step by step instructions,
especially are regards heating to remove a bearing.  Can you focus
my search?
>
> Thanks, Dave K.
>
>
> Greg Bender <greg@t...> wrote:
> Hi Dave,
>
> While you are at it, I would replace the small, outer seal as well
> as the large inner seal. I've never used a seal driver to seat
them.
> I install mine flush...but then I also clean up the mating
surfaces
> with a scotchbrite pad, too. I've got a how-to on my website:
>
> http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe_rear_drive.htm
>
> In my experience, the results are far more favorable when all of
the
> gaskets, o-rings, and seals are replaced in the rear drive. And,
> since you are not re-shimming anything, the job is TONS simpler.
>
> Regards,
>
> Greg Bender
>
> --- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, "dkasakitis"
> <dkasakitis@y...> wrote:
> > Folks, I just purchased a restored 1970 Embassador with 12Kmi.
> The
> > previous owner put a rear seal when he restored it.  I had it
> 200mi
> > before it leaked like the Exxon Valdez all over the rim, the
> entire
> > right side of the tire, and 1/3 of the tread on the right side.
I
> have
> > a new seal on order as I've been told this is the most likely
> culprit.
> > The shop manual isn't specific about replacement.  I have
several
> > questions.
> >
> > 1. Is a seal driver necessary?  In years past on dirt bikes I
just
> > tapped the seal in with a hammer against a small block of wood
and
> just
> > carefully worked my way around the seal.
> >
> > 2. Does the seal get installed flush with the highest part of
the
> > flange, i.e., I could span a segment of the seal with a block of
> wood
> > and tap until the wood is stopped by the flange.
> >
> > Thanks (and thanks to Charlie for his advice on dissassembly).
> > DaveK.
>
>
>
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Moto guzzi motorcycles
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>
>     Visit your group "Loopframe_Guzzi" on the web.
>
>     To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  Loopframe_Guzzi-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>     Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! for Good
>  Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.

I heard a rumor that Giulio Carcano has passed away, joining Tonti and most
recently,
Todero.
Raise a glass of your favorite beverage for the man who designed the "loopframe"
as well
as the Guzzi V8 racer.

Let's see-the so called big block motor has been in production from 1967-
2005...that's a
hell of a legacy for a great, great motorcycle.

Dav e, for some reason this wound up in our mailb ox.  ? Maybe it has
something to do with the site being new.

Michael Ittner





On Sep 14, 2005, at 9:08 AM, david kasakitis wrote:

> Greg,
> The small outer seal is the one IN the drive box?  I was going to
> order this but a service guy at Harper's indicated the flange seal is
> the one most problematic.
>  
> I did get to your site for some tips but I can't seem to find any step
> by step instructions for doing the rebuild.  I've read both of
> "Pete's" articles and neither provides step by step instructions,
> especially are regards heating to remove a bearing.  Can you focus my
> search?
>  
> Thanks, Dave K.
>
>
> Greg Bender <greg@...> wrote:
>> Hi Dave,
>>
>> While you are at it, I would replace the small, outer seal as well
>> as the large inner seal. I've never used a seal driver to seat them.
>> I install mine flush...but then I also clean up the mating surfaces
>> with a scotchbrite pad, too. I've got a how-to on my website:
>>
>> http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe_rear_drive.htm
>>
>> In my experience, the results are far more favorable when all of the
>> gaskets, o-rings, and seals are replaced in the rear drive. And,
>> since you are not re-shimming anything, the job is TONS simpler.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Greg Bender
>>
>> --- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, "dkasakitis"
>> <dkasakitis@y...> wrote:
>> > Folks, I just purchased a restored 1970 Embassador with 12Kmi. 
>> The
>> > previous owner put a rear seal when he restored it.  I had it
>> 200mi
>> > before it leaked like the Exxon Valdez all over the rim, the
>> entire
>> > right side of the tire, and 1/3 of the tread on the right side.  I
>> have
>> > a new seal on order as I've been told this is the most likely
>> culprit. 
>> > The shop manual isn't specific about replacement.  I have several
>> > questions.
>> >
>> > 1. Is a seal driver necessary?  In years past on dirt bikes I just
>> > tapped the seal in with a hammer against a small block of wood and
>> just
>> > carefully worked my way around the seal.
>> >
>> > 2. Does the seal get installed flush with the highest part of the
>> > flange, i.e., I could span a segment of the seal with a block of
>> wood
>> > and tap until the wood is stopped by the flange.
>> >
>> > Thanks (and thanks to Charlie for his advice on dissassembly).
>> > DaveK.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> SPONSORED LINKS
>> Moto guzzi motorcycles Yahoo! for Good
> Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
>
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Moto guzzi motorcycles
>
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>  ▪   Visit your group "Loopframe_Guzzi" on the web.
>  
>  ▪   To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  Loopframe_Guzzi-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>  
>  ▪   Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
>
>

Hi Dave,

While you are at it, I would replace the small, outer seal as well
as the large inner seal. I've never used a seal driver to seat them.
I install mine flush...but then I also clean up the mating surfaces
with a scotchbrite pad, too. I've got a how-to on my website:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe_rear_drive.htm

In my experience, the results are far more favorable when all of the
gaskets, o-rings, and seals are replaced in the rear drive. And,
since you are not re-shimming anything, the job is TONS simpler.

Regards,

Greg Bender

--- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, "dkasakitis"
<dkasakitis@y...> wrote:
> Folks, I just purchased a restored 1970 Embassador with 12Kmi. 
The
> previous owner put a rear seal when he restored it.  I had it
200mi
> before it leaked like the Exxon Valdez all over the rim, the
entire
> right side of the tire, and 1/3 of the tread on the right side.  I
have
> a new seal on order as I've been told this is the most likely
culprit. 
> The shop manual isn't specific about replacement.  I have several
> questions.
>
> 1. Is a seal driver necessary?  In years past on dirt bikes I just
> tapped the seal in with a hammer against a small block of wood and
just
> carefully worked my way around the seal.
>
> 2. Does the seal get installed flush with the highest part of the
> flange, i.e., I could span a segment of the seal with a block of
wood
> and tap until the wood is stopped by the flange.
>
> Thanks (and thanks to Charlie for his advice on dissassembly).
> DaveK.

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Moto guzzi motorcycles

Hi Dave,

While you are at it, I would replace the small, outer seal as well
as the large inner seal. I've never used a seal driver to seat them.
I install mine flush...but then I also clean up the mating surfaces
with a scotchbrite pad, too. I've got a how-to on my website:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe_rear_drive.htm

In my experience, the results are far more favorable when all of the
gaskets, o-rings, and seals are replaced in the rear drive. And,
since you are not re-shimming anything, the job is TONS simpler.

Regards,

Greg Bender

--- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, "dkasakitis"
<dkasakitis@y...> wrote:
> Folks, I just purchased a restored 1970 Embassador with 12Kmi.
The
> previous owner put a rear seal when he restored it.  I had it
200mi
> before it leaked like the Exxon Valdez all over the rim, the
entire
> right side of the tire, and 1/3 of the tread on the right side.  I
have
> a new seal on order as I've been told this is the most likely
culprit.
> The shop manual isn't specific about replacement.  I have several
> questions.
>
> 1. Is a seal driver necessary?  In years past on dirt bikes I just
> tapped the seal in with a hammer against a small block of wood and
just
> carefully worked my way around the seal.
>
> 2. Does the seal get installed flush with the highest part of the
> flange, i.e., I could span a segment of the seal with a block of
wood
> and tap until the wood is stopped by the flange.
>
> Thanks (and thanks to Charlie for his advice on dissassembly).
> DaveK.

Hi Paul,

You mentioned on the Topica list that the original throttle cables
(single Tomaselli sp?) that there was an adjuster built into the cable
itself. I guess I've never seen one of these. Do you have a picture?

Regards,

Greg Bender

Folks, I just purchased a restored 1970 Embassador with 12Kmi.  The
previous owner put a rear seal when he restored it.  I had it 200mi
before it leaked like the Exxon Valdez all over the rim, the entire
right side of the tire, and 1/3 of the tread on the right side.  I have
a new seal on order as I've been told this is the most likely culprit.
The shop manual isn't specific about replacement.  I have several
questions.

1. Is a seal driver necessary?  In years past on dirt bikes I just
tapped the seal in with a hammer against a small block of wood and just
carefully worked my way around the seal.

2. Does the seal get installed flush with the highest part of the
flange, i.e., I could span a segment of the seal with a block of wood
and tap until the wood is stopped by the flange.

Thanks (and thanks to Charlie for his advice on dissassembly).
DaveK.

Mine is broken and has a missing cable barrel on the inside. MG has
none, and if anyone has a spare I would be happy to purchase it from
you.

Thanks.

Keith

Probably just something I did wrong. Thanks for your efforts Charlie!

We have 30mb of space total. Good ideas Paul!

--- In Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <customguzzi@c...>
wrote:
> That's what I figured, hence limiting it to one picture only
shouldn't take
> up to much. Then after the project you can just delete your folder
and send
> a nice new pic of you and your bike to EldoMike for posting on his
site. :)
>
> Paul
>
>   _____
>
> From: Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mike
> Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 7:18 PM
> To: Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Loopframe_Guzzi] Project Bikes Album
>
>
> I'm pretty sure that the photo image size on these list is pretty
small...
>
> EldoMike

----- Original Message -----

From: customguzzi7374

To: Loopframe_Guzzi@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 6:03 PM

Subject: [Loopframe_Guzzi] Project Bikes Album

Ok, here is an idea. I just made a project bikes album and under it
another titled "Elvira" for my 73 project. Just thought I would post a
current status pic for anyone interested to see. Maybe we can use this
so folks can show what they have been up to recently. No need to post
hundreds of pics as I'm sure we're limited on storage space here, but
as you progress you can update the photo in your folder.

Just an idea.

Paul

Ok, here is an idea. I just made a project bikes album and under it
another titled "Elvira" for my 73 project. Just thought I would post a
current status pic for anyone interested to see. Maybe we can use this
so folks can show what they have been up to recently. No need to post
hundreds of pics as I'm sure we're limited on storage space here, but
as you progress you can update the photo in your folder.

Just an idea.

Paul

I'd like to welcome everyone to the "new" Loop List, hopefully it will
work better than with our previous host.

I've altered the settings at Ray's request for the Members area (note
to self: never set up a new list when you're tired), also those of the
Database and several others. Have created a "Tune-up Quick Reference"
table (thanks for the idea Greg B.) using Guzziology as the source.

More to come...

Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/

16-year-olds and sport bikes are a bad combination, in
my opinion. My 16-year-old son wants to ride, and I'm
inclined to guide him towards a dual-sport for
starters, something like a Yamaha XT250.

Guzzi should make a dual-sport from the Breva!

-Mike (69 ambo, 77 vert)

--- vmsmith45 <vmsmith45@...> wrote:

> Thanks for setting up the list here. Although I'm a
> relatively new
> member of the "loop-list", I've enjoyed the banter
> and especially the
> tech tips from other members.
>
> I'll post a pic of my Eldo, and the interesting
> story of how it came
> to me when I've got a bit more time. Just wish it
> hadn't been in for a
> clutch job this past weekend because I would have
> loved to taken it to
> the IMOC rally in Sturbridge, which was a very nice
> event. My 16 yr.
> old daughter got "bitten" by the Moto-bug while we
> were there -
> although she was looking at the Ducati sport bikes.
> LOL.
>
> Mark Bernardo
> '73 Eldo
> Whitinsville, MA
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>


M.Jones, associate editor, Journal for the Study of Religions and Ideologies
(http://hiphi.ubbcluj.ro/JSRI/)

"The heart has its reasons which reason does not know." -Blaise Pascal
"With man, instinct and reason avoid each other with adversity, yet, by
repudiating each other they lure each other to reach mutual correction." -Lucian
Blaga

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Hey, Charlie, I have been accumulating the ingredients
to make one of your devices to simplify inflating
drum-brake tires, and this week I put it all together.
Such a simple (and cheep) solution: thanks for the
idea!!

-Mike (69 ambo, 77 vert)


M.Jones, associate editor, Journal for the Study of Religions and Ideologies
(http://hiphi.ubbcluj.ro/JSRI/)

"The heart has its reasons which reason does not know." -Blaise Pascal
"With man, instinct and reason avoid each other with adversity, yet, by
repudiating each other they lure each other to reach mutual correction." -Lucian
Blaga

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

hey all,

just posted a pic of my '73 Eldo. To make a long story short, my Dad
bought this bike 2nd hand back in '73, owned it for a number of years,
but was forced to sell it due to some financial setbacks. \

About 1990 or so, he was hunting for another Eldo, found one in the
"want advertiser", and called. As he was talking to the owner, the man
on the other end suddenly asked, "Is this Frank Bernardo?". My Dad,
very surprised said, "Yes, it is".  "Frank, this is John, this is YOUR
bike!"
Needless to say, he bought it back!

In 1995, my dad passed away from pancreatic cancer. After his funeral,
my   mother decided that my brother, Jerry Bernardo <yes, the former
host of Motoworld 2>, should get the Eldo, and that I'd get the
pickup. Both my brother and I knew that it should have been the other
way around, but who's going to argue with their mom after their dad
has just passed away?? Jerry had 4 bikes in his garage already, but we
both knew to just accept it.

Jerry shipped the Eldo to California, where he lives. As time passed,
he had a local "guzzista" named Buck go through the Eldo. The bike was
completely restored, just short of removing the motor from the frame.
It was completely gone through, and $3,000.00 later, you can see what
it looked like on the posted pic (Guzzi in CA).  My brother Jerry is a
custom painter first (and a TV host 2nd) and did the repaint himself.
(For more about Jerry, go to www.fahq.com)

In the spring of 2004, Jerry called and said he'd been thinking about
the Eldo. Before he could even finish, I jumped in - "If you're
thinking about selling Dad's Eldo, you better be talking to me!!" I
nearly shouted.

"No", he said. "You know I bought that Yamaha Roadstar last year, so I
was thinking I'd GIVE you back the Guzzi".  Well, to be honest, I was
FLOORED!! After thanking him relentlessly for about 5 minutes, he
said, "If you don't stop thanking me, I'm NOT going to send it!!". LOL

Anyway, we made arrangements, and it was shipped back to the east
coast in early May. With my kids looking on, the truck driver and I
broke down the shipping crate and rolled the Eldo out. I was amazed to
discover that it only had 37,860 original miles on it. After putting
some fuel in, Dad's bike fired up on the first try.

So here's to my Dad, who's watching his oldest ride his machine, my
brother, for the greatest gift one bro could give another, and to my
son, who's already got his eye on it!!!

Mark Bernardo
73' Eldo
Whitinsville, MA

Thanks for setting up the list here. Although I'm a relatively new
member of the "loop-list", I've enjoyed the banter and especially the
tech tips from other members.

I'll post a pic of my Eldo, and the interesting story of how it came
to me when I've got a bit more time. Just wish it hadn't been in for a
clutch job this past weekend because I would have loved to taken it to
the IMOC rally in Sturbridge, which was a very nice event. My 16 yr.
old daughter got "bitten" by the Moto-bug while we were there -
although she was looking at the Ducati sport bikes. LOL.

Mark Bernardo
'73 Eldo
Whitinsville, MA

Hey!

HA thought you'd try to move the list to ditch me huh? Gonna have to
be more creative than that!

As it turns out I already had a "profile" set up, just had to find
my password. I think I set this up for a waterbuffalo list that just
didn't work for me..... I never got into setting it up to recieve
messages via email.  think I did that this time.
It also looks as though we can post pix somehow? I recken I'll figure
it soon. Whole lot of fancy stuff...everything is blinking and
flashing at me, I think I feel a seizer comming on.......

Kev

Thanks for all the work you do for the list, Charlie.
JW