Have you looked at a map, LOTS of good places to live with in 30 miles. although
I am not a local. Be midful that the 91 freeway is REALLY bad traffic almost
everyday! I would suggest living as close to work as possible for peace of mind!

Scott
San Diego
Super Stalker #80
 


--- On Tue, 11/10/09, Mike Shirk <shirk_mike@...> wrote:


From: Mike Shirk <shirk_mike@...>
Subject: [Locost_North_America] Corona ca?
To: "Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com"
<Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 10, 2009, 1:21 PM


 



I am looking at interviewing for a job in corona ca, are there any family
friendly communities within 30 minutes drive? I ask here because I've seen some
posts by people that live near Aircraft Spruce..... Thanks in advance.

Mike











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

At 11:26 AM 10/11/2009, you wrote:
>tvrvixen1970 wrote: you guys crack me up with your euphemisms. "brit-car
>system" "MG mechanism"  Is it that hard to admit that, just like me, you
>are using a Lucas windshield wiper system?
>
>
>
>Shhh, we don't want to wake the Prince of Darkness!  :-)
>
>Ed

Definitely must not say the name of the evil one

Dave

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am looking at interviewing for a job in corona ca, are there any family
friendly communities within 30 minutes drive?  I ask here because I've seen some
posts by people that live near Aircraft Spruce..... Thanks in advance.

Mike

Proof that the time-held vintage racing expression, "Just because you
can afford it, doesn't mean you can drive it," is still valid.

Each video is just under 2 minutes in length.

Day 1:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGwWJ2zNqYg&NR=1

Day 2 with more "action":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aD0qML2VhE&NR=1&feature=fvwp






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

tvrvixen1970 wrote: you guys crack me up with your euphemisms. "brit-car
system" "MG mechanism"  Is it that hard to admit that, just like me, you
are using a Lucas windshield wiper system?



Shhh, we don't want to wake the Prince of Darkness!  :-)

Ed

you guys crack me up with your euphemisms.  "brit-car system"  "MG mechanism"

Is it that hard to admit that, just like me, you are using a Lucas windshield
wiper system?

Don

--- In Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com, "butter_art" <butter_art@...>
wrote:
>
> Me too - Brit-car system.  I have an MG "mechanism".  Easy to shorten but
trouble making the two speeds work with a switch that matches the rest of the
ones in my dash.
>
> --- In Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com, Ed <lotusracer@> wrote:
> >
> > nate clowar wrote: What has everyone here used? I've been looking at hot
> > rod and vw units and they're all about $200.
> > >
> > I've got a typical Brit-car system that actually came out of a Lotus
> > Elan.  Had to make it narrower, but that was easy.
> >
> > Ed
> >
>

If I blow on them they go inside the meter and are not connected to each
other.  Thet are 1/4"dia. , parallel to each other, and point rearwards
parallel to the throttle body and underneath it  KW

--- On Mon, 11/9/09, kiwi74usa1 <kiwi74usa1@...> wrote:

From: kiwi74usa1 <kiwi74usa1@...>
Subject: [Locost_North_America] Re: another question about 4AG-E w/TVIS
To: Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 9, 2009, 9:31 PM







 









       Keith. They are coolant lines. There is a wax cavity inside which when the
warm water get to it, allows an air passage to open up and drop the fast idle. 
I didn't hook mine up in the 16 valve at first and it wouldn't idle under about
2500 revs.  Hooked them up and had no more problems.  Now with the 20 valve, it
doen't have them.

Graham

www.earleymotorspor ts.com



--- In Locost_North_ America@yahoogro ups.com, Keith Williams <williamsk1936@
...> wrote:

>

> Not these.  They are independant of each other and both flow into the
throttle body.  They are parallel to each other, 1/4" dia. and lie just under
the meter body. ?????????

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Snap ringed u-j should be rebuildable.  They ones they claim not rebuildable are
staked.  But there are methods of rebuilding them as well.  See:

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/Staked_Instructions.htm.

  Also your drivehsaft service is probably going to want the u-joints center to
center for a measurement.  Usually flange to flange doesn't mean much to them.

Already got mine done but the benevolent folks I used charged me $135.  But that
did include a new tube.

Larry in Omaha


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Keith Williams
   To: locost north america
   Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 5:59 PM
   Subject: [Locost_North_America] I AM COMMITTED (or probably should be)



   I dropped the engine in to measure for  a driveshaft.  I wish I had used
something other than stock  4AG-E mounts.  The ones with the horizontal bolt
looked pretty good.  I had to remove the oil filter, alternator, and exhaust
manifold to put it in and then install the mount on one side and nut it so I
could pull the engine up to rock it to put in the other.  I might have  had an
easier time beneath it
        At any rate I chopped a 4 X 12-1/2" hole in my pretty hood to clear the
plenum.  It only sticks through an inch, max.  Now the question---Where can I
find a ready-made "speed bump" to cover it?   I wish I had the nerve, ability,
and English wheel to just whop a proper bulge in it.
        My driveshaft measurement is 26" from rear flange to tranny casting.  The
84 Corolla shaft will cut down nicely.  In Coffeyville the service is $40.  Is
that about right?  My U-joints have wire snap rings in them.  Since there is a
kit available, aren't they rebuildable unlike I have read.?  Cheers    Keith
Williams

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I used a wiper setup from Specialty Power windows. And it was about $200. I
bought the basic kit and when I was done getting it to work with the Miata
column switch, I only had one speed, but that should be adequate. The more
expensive unit they sell might work better.

Someone posted a link to another site, months ago that sold what appeared to be
the same setup for about half the price. Also, if you could find compatible
Lucas parts from british cars, that would work as well, but would likely not be
any cheaper.

For what it's worth...

Bill Bernard

--- On Mon, 11/9/09, nate clowar <nate@...> wrote:

From: nate clowar <nate@...>
Subject: [Locost_North_America] 2 speed wipers.
To: Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 9, 2009, 7:15 PM

What has everyone here used? I've been looking at hot rod and vw units and
they're all about $200.


Thanks,
--
-nate
www.clowar.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here is where to get them.
www.driveshaftsuperstore.com  Part# 430-10

Graham.
www.earleymotorsports.com

Keith. They are coolant lines. There is a wax cavity inside which when the warm
water get to it, allows an air passage to open up and drop the fast idle.  I
didn't hook mine up in the 16 valve at first and it wouldn't idle under about
2500 revs.  Hooked them up and had no more problems.  Now with the 20 valve, it
doen't have them.
Graham
www.earleymotorsports.com

--- In Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com, Keith Williams <williamsk1936@...>
wrote:
>
> Not these.  They are independant of each other and both flow into the throttle
body.  They are parallel to each other, 1/4" dia. and lie just under the meter
body. ?????????
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Russ. Where is your filler neck in comparison with the thermostat?  It sounds
like air in the system.  If your filler neck sits low, jack the front of the car
up so it sits higher, leave the radiator cap off and let it go through it's heat
cycle.  That is let the thermostat open and close a few times. Once it does that
and has found it's level, top it up and put the cap back on.  It may blow some
coolant out while it is purging but that is ok.  That is the way I get the air
out of my 20 valve and once done, I have never had an overheating problem and
that includes racing it 100 degree weather.

Graham.
www.earleymotorsports.com

>
> I have been having an overheating problem lately that I want to try to figure
out what is happening. I'll set the stage for you all so we are on the same
page. My Se7en has a Ford xflow Kent 1300cc motor. My water temp gauge sensor is
in the intake manifold water preheat jacket. The 195deg thermostat is new (Less
than 500 miles) and I pre-tested it in boiling water before I put it in. The
last two weekends I've gone out for a drive and the temperature gauge starts out
at 0deg. After a few miles the temperature starts to rise and does not stop
rising until it gets to about 230deg and then drops quickly to about 140deg. The
car continues to operate at 140deg to 180deg the rest of the drive and all is
well. It does not do this all the time. It only happens on a cold motor and not
on every cold startup.  To me it sounds like the thermostat is sticking or
hanging up. What do you all think? If it is sticking, I feel it is time to
replace it again. Are there any thermostats out there that are a better quality
that my Auto Quest stats?
>

Was trying to remember what toyota that engine came in.  It's been 10yrs since
Ive worked on those.
The only diagram I could come up with is this one:
http://www3.telus.net/public/corym/yota.bmp
Not much help really.  The only thing that uses large vacuum hoses on that
vintage toyota were usually brake booster, and the idle-up valve for the A/C. I
don't remember if those went to the tbody or the intake though.
Good luck.
   Cory



--- In Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com, Keith Williams <williamsk1936@...>
wrote:
>
> What do the (2) 1/4"  tubes under the air meter(throttle) do and what to hook
to them.?  They seem to flow into the air meter  Thanx   KW
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I paid $200 complete for my custom driveshaft with Rockford driveline
u-joints I had already aquired.  It's almost too pretty to use.
http://eyeballbuddy.home.mchsi.com/driveshaft.jpg

Ed


Scott Kilborn wrote:
> I'd agree - $40 is a bargain.  I paid around $130, but they did an
> awesome job.  Welds looks factory, balanced perfectly, and painted
> black.  I'd have paid $200 (but don't tell them that!).  I ended up
> having to replace my front yoke as I changed to an early (83) Toyota
> tranny that had a different spline count.  I used the Rockford Driveline
> u-joints to change the yoke.  They worked well, but I'm wasn't overly
> impressed by their snap ring/groove setup.  Seemed a little weak, but
> hasn't fallen out yet.
>
> ScottInIowa

I'd agree - $40 is a bargain.  I paid around $130, but they did an
awesome job.  Welds looks factory, balanced perfectly, and painted
black.  I'd have paid $200 (but don't tell them that!).  I ended up
having to replace my front yoke as I changed to an early (83) Toyota
tranny that had a different spline count.  I used the Rockford Driveline
u-joints to change the yoke.  They worked well, but I'm wasn't overly
impressed by their snap ring/groove setup.  Seemed a little weak, but
hasn't fallen out yet.

ScottInIowa

nate clowar wrote:
> If you find a place with ready-made speed bumps let me know, though I'd like
> an english wheel to try to make some myself. ;)
>
> $40 sounds pretty good, to me. I ended up having a new one made as my
> u-joints weren't rebuildable, and re-using the old parts didn't seem like
> the best option. I think it came to just over $200.
>
>
> -n
>
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 1:59 PM, Keith Williams <williamsk1936@...>wrote:
>
>
>> I dropped the engine in to measure for  a driveshaft.  I wish I had used
>> something other than stock  4AG-E mounts.  The ones with the horizontal bolt
>> looked pretty good.  I had to remove the oil filter, alternator, and exhaust
>> manifold to put it in and then install the mount on one side and nut it so I
>> could pull the engine up to rock it to put in the other.  I might have  had
>> an easier time beneath it
>>      At any rate I chopped a 4 X 12-1/2" hole in my pretty hood to clear
>> the plenum.  It only sticks through an inch, max.  Now the question---Where
>> can I find a ready-made "speed bump" to cover it?   I wish I had the nerve,
>> ability, and English wheel to just whop a proper bulge in it.
>>      My driveshaft measurement is 26" from rear flange to tranny casting.
>> The 84 Corolla shaft will cut down nicely.  In Coffeyville the service is
>> $40.  Is that about right?  My U-joints have wire snap rings in them.  Since
>> there is a kit available, aren't they rebuildable unlike I have read.?
>> Cheers    Keith Williams
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>

Me too - Brit-car system.  I have an MG "mechanism".  Easy to shorten but
trouble making the two speeds work with a switch that matches the rest of the
ones in my dash.

--- In Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com, Ed <lotusracer@...> wrote:
>
> nate clowar wrote: What has everyone here used? I've been looking at hot
> rod and vw units and they're all about $200.
> >
> I've got a typical Brit-car system that actually came out of a Lotus
> Elan.  Had to make it narrower, but that was easy.
>
> Ed
>

nate clowar wrote: What has everyone here used? I've been looking at hot
rod and vw units and they're all about $200.
>
I've got a typical Brit-car system that actually came out of a Lotus
Elan.  Had to make it narrower, but that was easy.

Ed

What has everyone here used? I've been looking at hot rod and vw units and
they're all about $200.


Thanks,
--
-nate
www.clowar.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I may spring for enough steel to stick an English wheel together.  The 8" cast
iron caster wheel that Wholesale Tool sells would be fine for the bottom one
and  about any self-aligning ball bearing wold serve as the upper.   Even if I
really screw up some ally, I don't have to use it and there is always styrofoam
and FRP.   Making the cover for my headlight and wiper wands from graphite sort
of re-assured me.   Thanx for answering.   Keith

--- On Mon, 11/9/09, nate clowar <nate@...> wrote:


From: nate clowar <nate@...>
Subject: Re: [Locost_North_America] I AM COMMITTED (or probably should be)
To: Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 9, 2009, 6:04 PM


If you find a place with ready-made speed bumps let me know, though I'd like
an english wheel to try to make some myself. ;)

$40 sounds pretty good, to me. I ended up having a new one made as my
u-joints weren't rebuildable, and re-using the old parts didn't seem like
the best option. I think it came to just over $200.


-n



On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 1:59 PM, Keith Williams <williamsk1936@...>wrote:

>
>
> I dropped the engine in to measure for  a driveshaft.  I wish I had used
> something other than stock  4AG-E mounts.  The ones with the horizontal bolt
> looked pretty good.  I had to remove the oil filter, alternator, and exhaust
> manifold to put it in and then install the mount on one side and nut it so I
> could pull the engine up to rock it to put in the other.  I might have  had
> an easier time beneath it
>      At any rate I chopped a 4 X 12-1/2" hole in my pretty hood to clear
> the plenum.  It only sticks through an inch, max.  Now the question---Where
> can I find a ready-made "speed bump" to cover it?   I wish I had the nerve,
> ability, and English wheel to just whop a proper bulge in it.
>      My driveshaft measurement is 26" from rear flange to tranny casting.
> The 84 Corolla shaft will cut down nicely.  In Coffeyville the service is
> $40.  Is that about right?  My U-joints have wire snap rings in them.  Since
> there is a kit available, aren't they rebuildable unlike I have read.?
> Cheers    Keith Williams
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> 
>



--
-nate
www.clowar.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

If you find a place with ready-made speed bumps let me know, though I'd like
an english wheel to try to make some myself. ;)

$40 sounds pretty good, to me. I ended up having a new one made as my
u-joints weren't rebuildable, and re-using the old parts didn't seem like
the best option. I think it came to just over $200.


-n



On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 1:59 PM, Keith Williams <williamsk1936@...>wrote:

>
>
> I dropped the engine in to measure for  a driveshaft.  I wish I had used
> something other than stock  4AG-E mounts.  The ones with the horizontal bolt
> looked pretty good.  I had to remove the oil filter, alternator, and exhaust
> manifold to put it in and then install the mount on one side and nut it so I
> could pull the engine up to rock it to put in the other.  I might have  had
> an easier time beneath it
>      At any rate I chopped a 4 X 12-1/2" hole in my pretty hood to clear
> the plenum.  It only sticks through an inch, max.  Now the question---Where
> can I find a ready-made "speed bump" to cover it?   I wish I had the nerve,
> ability, and English wheel to just whop a proper bulge in it.
>      My driveshaft measurement is 26" from rear flange to tranny casting.
> The 84 Corolla shaft will cut down nicely.  In Coffeyville the service is
> $40.  Is that about right?  My U-joints have wire snap rings in them.  Since
> there is a kit available, aren't they rebuildable unlike I have read.?
> Cheers    Keith Williams
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>



--
-nate
www.clowar.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I dropped the engine in to measure for  a driveshaft.  I wish I had used
something other than stock  4AG-E mounts.  The ones with the horizontal bolt
looked pretty good.  I had to remove the oil filter, alternator, and exhaust
manifold to put it in and then install the mount on one side and nut it so I
could pull the engine up to rock it to put in the other.  I might have  had an
easier time beneath it
     At any rate I chopped a 4 X 12-1/2" hole in my pretty hood to clear the
plenum.  It only sticks through an inch, max.  Now the question---Where can I
find a ready-made "speed bump" to cover it?   I wish I had the nerve, ability,
and English wheel to just whop a proper bulge in it.
     My driveshaft measurement is 26" from rear flange to tranny casting.  The
84 Corolla shaft will cut down nicely.  In Coffeyville the service is $40.  Is
that about right?  My U-joints have wire snap rings in them.  Since there is a
kit available, aren't they rebuildable unlike I have read.?  Cheers    Keith
Williams




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

When building a composite aircraft several years ago I had very good luck
with a table made with a 2 X 12 frame and melamine coated particle board
top. Once the table was in my family room I screwed the legs to the floor
used a precision level and a floor jack to level the top. I bought a cheap
laser level from Harbor Freight and shot corner to corner and adjusted until
they measured within .010". It was a few bucks extra to get that kind of
accuracy and it was probably a bit of OCD but fuselage and wings built on
that table were straight and true. The only thing I'd change is to go to a 2
X 4 rectangular tubing frame. When the latest airplane project is done
that's how I'll build the table for my 7's frame. I'll just put it in the
garage this time so I have the MIG close at hand.
Two other tips I've used for rigging wings. Make cheap level system with
1/4" vinyl tubing and pole stands made from 1 X 2's. You can use T's for
drip irrigation tubing and add as many stands as you want. When you fill the
tubing with water dyed red you have a level system that is completely
independent of the floor.
If you want to temporarily attach or fix something to a spot on a concrete
floor use Bondo. I used both these to attach a leveled LongEZ fuselage to
the floor of my hangar and set the wings for drilling the attachment
fittings. Plane flew straight and true first time out. The Bondo popped
loose with light hammer blows and what small pieces that didn't came off
with a floor scraper.

Rick Girard

On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 9:47 AM, Holmes, John <john.holmes@...>wrote:

>
>
> Ernst,
>
> About the only important thing is to use 3/4" MDF for the top, not
> plywood, flake board or particle board. You will most likely be drawing
> on it and screwing alignment blocks to it and the MDF is way better for
> this that the other stuff. What you put it on isn't that important in
> my opinion.
>
> I used four or five 2x6's that I had about the shop laid over two
> collapsible saw horses. The saw horses were about 5 feet apart which
> minimized or eliminated sagging. The 2x6's weren't perfect, but where I
> could see a bow, I put the high side up. Put the MDF over that and then
> leveled it by squeezing the legs of the saw horses together at the low
> corners. My personal opinion is that your cutting and welding will make
> a bigger difference in your frame than your build surface. When you go
> to attach the suspension points, most of your frame imperfections get
> factored out anyway.
>
> If I were to do it again, I would do the same thing. Anything else just
> seems like wasted effort. BTW, my car has been on the road since
> December 2005.
>
> John
>
> ========================================
>
> 1a. Making the Chassis
> Posted by: "rx7world"
> Date: Sat Nov 7, 2009 4:05 pm ((PST))
>
> I am at the build the flat surface stage, I see two ways one
> using metal 2x4's in the center, and another that says use straight
> timber in the center, I assume treated is out of the question because of
> as it dry's it changes, my partner is insisting on wood I want the
> metal, really just want to do it right, as I plan to make many of these.
> Please any advise. Thanks Ernst
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

It's a 1988 GT-S Corolla (AE92) Thanx Cory

--- On Mon, 11/9/09, Cory <chevroletc1070@...> wrote:

From: Cory <chevroletc1070@...>
Subject: [Locost_North_America] Re: another question about 4AG-E w/TVIS
To: Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 9, 2009, 8:15 AM







 









         Give me year/make/model and I will try and find a vacuuum diag for you.



--- In Locost_North_ America@yahoogro ups.com, Keith Williams <williamsk1936@
...> wrote:

>

> What do the (2) 1/4"  tubes under the air meter(throttle) do and what to hook
to them.?  They seem to flow into the air meter  Thanx   KW

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Russ,

I think what you are seeing is expected behavior.  230 seems a bit high,
but the overshoot is normal.  At least that is what my car does.  I
think it just takes a bit longer for the hot water to circulate to the
thermostat and then there is a delay as the thermostat heats up.  The
drop is so sudden that I wonder if the thermostat is sticking, but it's
brand new.

I have a real over-heating problem.  With constant driving at 65mph, the
engine slowly continues to heat.  This weekend I did a full flush and
got out a lot of rust particles and small flakes.  I'm trying some
Prestone flushing agent now (have to drive the car for ~6 hours which
means several weeks for me) to see if it really does anything with the
rust or if it's just a detergent.

John

=================================

	 2a. Over heating AGAIN!!!!!
	     Posted by: "Russ"
	     Date: Sat Nov 7, 2009 7:14 pm ((PST))

	 I have been having an overheating problem lately that I want to
try to figure out what is happening. I'll set the stage for you all so
we are on the same page. My Se7en has a Ford xflow Kent 1300cc motor. My
water temp gauge sensor is in the intake manifold water preheat jacket.
The 195deg thermostat is new (Less than 500 miles) and I pre-tested it
in boiling water before I put it in. The last two weekends I've gone out
for a drive and the temperature gauge starts out at 0deg. After a few
miles the temperature starts to rise and does not stop rising until it
gets to about 230deg and then drops quickly to about 140deg. The car
continues to operate at 140deg to 180deg the rest of the drive and all
is well. It does not do this all the time. It only happens on a cold
motor and not on every cold startup.  To me it sounds like the
thermostat is sticking or hanging up. What do you all think? If it is
sticking, I feel it is time to replace it again. Are there any
thermostats out there that are a better quality that my Auto Quest
stats?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ernst,

About the only important thing is to use 3/4" MDF for the top, not
plywood, flake board or particle board.  You will most likely be drawing
on it and screwing alignment blocks to it and the MDF is way better for
this that the other stuff.  What you put it on isn't that important in
my opinion.

I used four or five 2x6's that I had about the shop laid over two
collapsible saw horses.  The saw horses were about 5 feet apart which
minimized or eliminated sagging.  The 2x6's weren't perfect, but where I
could see a bow, I put the high side up.  Put the MDF over that and then
leveled it by squeezing the legs of the saw horses together at the low
corners.  My personal opinion is that your cutting and welding will make
a bigger difference in your frame than your build surface.  When you go
to attach the suspension points, most of your frame imperfections get
factored out anyway.

If I were to do it again, I would do the same thing.  Anything else just
seems like wasted effort.  BTW, my car has been on the road since
December 2005.

John

========================================

	 1a. Making the Chassis
	     Posted by: "rx7world"
	     Date: Sat Nov 7, 2009 4:05 pm ((PST))

	 I am at the build the flat surface stage, I see two ways one
using metal 2x4's in the center, and another that says use straight
timber in the center, I assume treated is out of the question because of
as it dry's it changes, my partner is insisting on wood I want the
metal, really just want to do it right, as I plan to make many of these.
Please any advise.  Thanks Ernst




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Give me year/make/model and I will try and find a vacuuum diag for you.


--- In Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com, Keith Williams <williamsk1936@...>
wrote:
>
> What do the (2) 1/4"  tubes under the air meter(throttle) do and what to hook
to them.?  They seem to flow into the air meter  Thanx   KW
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Not these.  They are independant of each other and both flow into the throttle
body.  They are parallel to each other, 1/4" dia. and lie just under the meter
body. ?????????




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

They aren't connected.  They just flow into the throttle bod somewhere.  KW

--- On Sun, 11/8/09, Cory <chevroletc1070@...> wrote:


From: Cory <chevroletc1070@...>
Subject: [Locost_North_America] Re: another question about 4AG-E w/TVIS
To: Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, November 8, 2009, 6:31 PM


 



Not sure the details of this setup, but generally they are for coolant into the
throttle body to prevent it from icing up. Blow into one tube on the tbody and
it should just come out the other tube. Not really required on most play cars
and even rob a little power from warming up the air going into the engine. In
other words, cap them off and forget about them unless you play on driving in
near freezing temps with high humidity.

Cheers,
Cory


--- In Locost_North_ America@yahoogro ups.com, Keith Williams <williamsk1936@
...> wrote:
>
> What do the (2) 1/4"  tubes under the air meter(throttle) do and what to hook
to them.?  They seem to flow into the air meter  Thanx   KW
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>   Not sure the details of this setup, but generally they
> are for coolant into the throttle body to prevent it from
> icing up.

Not icing - they control your fast idle.  They tend to gum up and become
problematic.  If it just plain won't idle low, it's stuck.

It will run fine with the valve thingie removed and plated off.  Just be
prepared to do a 2-step on the gas until it will idle on its own.

Greg "turning high-maintenance parts into low-maintenance parts since bolts
could be removed" Wellwood
Kelowna BC Canada
http://www.gwellwood.com

Not sure the details of this setup, but generally they are for coolant into
the throttle body to prevent it from icing up.  Blow into one tube on the tbody
and it should just come out the other tube.  Not really required on most play
cars and even rob a little power from warming up the air going into the engine. 
In other words, cap them off and forget about them unless you play on driving in
near freezing temps with high humidity.

Cheers,
   Cory


--- In Locost_North_America@yahoogroups.com, Keith Williams <williamsk1936@...>
wrote:
>
> What do the (2) 1/4"  tubes under the air meter(throttle) do and what to hook
to them.?  They seem to flow into the air meter  Thanx   KW
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>