Hi Mark,
     Yes I've got a complete stock system. The mufflers have some rust
but not too much. They're yours for the cost of the shipping. If
you're interested. Would you like to see some pics?

Bill

Hi Folks,
    I've been building up quite an inventory of spare parts for 1300's.
I've been thinking that since restoring and customizing these sixes is
a passion of mine. I'd like to open this group as a conduit for
exchanging parts.

If you need it just ask the group. If I've got it, what do you have to
offer in exchange.

Here's what I have just from memory:

A complete rear swing arm and pumpkin in fine shape.

At least three sets of throttle bodies with throttle position sensors,
pressure regulators and injectors.

Two sets of carbs, just take offs, may need rebuilds, may not.

An engine block, in fine shape.

A complete head that I rebuilt myself as a spare.

A spare computer from an 85 Voyager.

A spare igniter from an 85 Voyager.

The idea is that restoring and enjoying these bikes shouldn't be
expensive.

What do you think?

Bill

OK Then,
    The e-mail addresses will stay displayed. I think that this is
better because we'll be able to use the "poll" function and members
will be able to post just by sending an e-mail to the group.

I also changed some of your preferences for how often you get e-mails
from the group. If you had chosen individual e-mails, I changed it to
"daily digest". I'll set this as the group default. If you really want
to receive every posting as an individual message you can change your
own setting back and I'll leave it alone.
  Thanks

Bill

Hey Folks,

Well the MSF is at it again. They are apparently not going to be
satisfied till they succeed in carving the US up into for profit
motorcycle training franchises. On Dec 15th 06 the MSF filed suit
against Team Oregon for infringement of their training program.

For those of you who are not familiar, Team Oregon has been rated as
the best motorcycle training program in the USA by the NHSTA. (
National Highway Safety something or other.) The MSF's plan to divide
the US into for profit training franchises was exposed two years ago
by the Motorcycle Consumer News.

The president of the MSF is also the president of the MIC ( Motorcycle
Industry Council ). This guy Michael Bouche ( not sure of the exact
spelling ) has actually testified against States using rider
registration fees to subsidize rider training. For sometime afterward
no one could fathom why he would do such a thing, till it came out
that the MIC wants to use rider safety as a cash cow. If the various
states would just stop subsidizing rider training then the
entrepreneurs who have already bought the franchises from the MSF can
be more competitive in the market place.

Various other States ( Colorado for one )have considered adopting the
Team Oregon program but backed off when the MSF threatened to sue them
as well.
I don't know about you guys but I've just about had enough of this
type of capitalism ( I could have said BULLSHIT, but I didn't ).

Before the flaming starts, I must say that I'm in no way demeaning the
efforts and commitment of the thousands of trainers that work every
day to refine and improve the skills of US riders, with an eye to
making the sport safer in the long run. I'm only pointing out that the
MSF is a Business Interest Corporation. According to their by-laws,
the MSF's purpose is to promote and foster the interests of the
manufacturers through rider training.

I'm following this lawsuit closely and will continue to post updates here.

Bill

KZCSI

--- In KawaSixes@yahoogroups.com, "Bill" <kzcsi@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
>     I presently have the settings for this group set up to display
> your E-Mail addresses in the messages that you post. When set this way
> members are able to post by email without visiting the Yahoo group
> site. I'm also told that this is the only way we can use the "Polls"
> function.
>
> Are you OK with this?
>
> I can change it to hide the addresses but once I do we can't go back.
> I'd like to make the regulars over at the KZ1300 group feel at ease
> and that group is set up to hide the addresses.
>
> Please let me know how you feel.
>
> Bill
> KZCSI
>


I've got no problem with my e.mail addy showing in my posts.
but if others are uncomfortable with it, thats cool too.

Don't matter to me Do what you think is best.

Thanks for your efforts!

Vance

--- In KawaSixes@yahoogroups.com, "Bill" <kzcsi@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
>     I presently have the settings for this group set up to display
> your E-Mail addresses in the messages that you post. When set this way
> members are able to post by email without visiting the Yahoo group
> site. I'm also told that this is the only way we can use the "Polls"
> function.
>
> Are you OK with this?
>
> I can change it to hide the addresses but once I do we can't go back.
> I'd like to make the regulars over at the KZ1300 group feel at ease
> and that group is set up to hide the addresses.
>
> Please let me know how you feel.
>
> Bill
> KZCSI
>

Hey Guys,
     I presently have the settings for this group set up to display
your E-Mail addresses in the messages that you post. When set this way
members are able to post by email without visiting the Yahoo group
site. I'm also told that this is the only way we can use the "Polls"
function.

Are you OK with this?

I can change it to hide the addresses but once I do we can't go back.
I'd like to make the regulars over at the KZ1300 group feel at ease
and that group is set up to hide the addresses.

Please let me know how you feel.

Bill
KZCSI

Hey Vance,
     Don't worry about being off topic. Unless you want to tell me
about Biker Chicks. I think that that story is a great addition to the
site.

  Even though I'm a Kaw guy and I've had an H1. I'd probably rather
have a water buffalo than a Kaw triple.

Thanks for contributing.

Bill
KZCSI

Hi Bill,
   In regards to power the RE5 is about like the GT750. Its better
suited for the hiway than in the city. They sometimes smoke a lot when
started but, after they warm up they are pretty clean. Cleaner than a
two stroke but not cleaner than a four.
   Rotaries get lousy gas mileage and I think the RE5 would have been
more successful if it were not introduced during the begining of the
energy crisis.
   Norton manufactured rotary bikes too and they were available up
until the mid 90's.
http://sameerkumar.blogspot.com/2006/08/remembering-rotary-norton-f1.html
   I have posted the RE5 story written by Sam Costanzo for those
interested in the insiders view of what happend to the RE5. Sam worked
with Suzuki back in the 70's and trained dealerships when the rotary
was introduced.
   Anyway, sorry about the off topic discussion but I have found that
most people that enjoy 6's like rotaries too.
   Vance

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the KawaSixes
group.

   File        : /RE5Story.txt
   Uploaded by : suz_re5a <W_Vance_Stanley@...>
   Description :

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KawaSixes/files/RE5Story.txt

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

suz_re5a <W_Vance_Stanley@...>

Hi Clyde,

Now that Suzuki rotary is a rare bike. I've never seen one in person.
Does it run fairly clean? How's it for power?

Bill
KZCSI

Hi Joe,
     I looked into the Nology coils but decided against them when the
engineer at Nology warned me that the ignition system on the KAW
wasn't current limited and that that might lead to over heating of the
coils.

Course all this predicting isn't nearly as valuable as the field
testing going on right here!

I ended up with the Dynas because they're relatively bullet proof. As
you can see I ended up moving two of them because they're too large
for the stock location.

Glad your Nology coils are working for you.

Bill
KZCSI

Hi Clyde,

   Thanks for the Information and glad to meet you. Yep, My favorite
other bike is my 76 Suzuki RE5.  However, I am very protective of it
and don't like to take it anywhere I can't keep an eye on it. I am
more comfortable riding my KZ1300 and in all honesty the KZ is more
fun to ride period. The KZ does not get the attention the RE5 does
but, I'm working on that.

   Again thanks for the Info!

   Vance

Here is a picture of my RE5. I need to polish and rebuild my front
forks but the bike is mostly restored.

http://inter-canem-et-lupum.com/P1010211.JPG

Bill,

I was able to fit the coils in the stock location.  I
used the Nology coils and had to fabricate some simple
mounting brackets.  The installation was pretty easy.
Of course, I had to remove the ballast resistor.

-Joe

--- Bill <kzcsi@...> wrote:

> Hi Joe,
> I asked about the pan because the 79's had a problem
> with the
> crankshaft because the oil pan was configured in
> such a way that the
> oil pickup could run dry during hard running. They
> changed the pan in
> 80 at least that's what I understand.
>
> Were you able to fit the new coils into the stock
> location?
>
> Thanks
> Bill
>
>
>




________________________________________________________________________________\
____
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Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
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--- In KawaSixes@yahoogroups.com, "suz_re5a" <W_Vance_Stanley@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Clyde,
>
>  I could probaly do some internet research on this but I thought I
> would ask first. Do you notice any difference with the Voyager fan
> Settup? I also have the APE tensioner but, I am using accel coils with
> no ballest resistor. Its been said the accel coils are not ideal for
> the 1300 but they have worked well for me and many others - at least I
> have not heard any stories of burned up igniters using the accel
> coils.  I am also interested in the larger oil pan but, I am worried I
> would not be able to use my near perfect exhaust system. My bike is
> still a work in progess and I wish I had the chrome engine covers like
> you have. As it stands I am going to try and polish up all these
> pieces. Hopefully, the KZ1300 engine covers will polish up......
>
>    Vance




Gald to meet you,
           Yeah I can honestly say that the 6 blade fan made a slight
difference in the cooling, but there are 2 other things I did that
made even a bigger difference, I did install a manual fan switch, and
I fabricated Stainless Steel "scoops" that I mounted using the same
bolts as the debris screen on the front of the radiator. These "scoops
help a great deal in funneling air into the core of the radiator,
gonna take the camera to the bike tomorrow and get pics if I can post
them I will or maybe I can get'em out by e.mail. The manual fan switch
is simple enough, I as all 1300 riders keep a very close eye on the
temp gauge, when in traffic or any other slow speed situation I just
flip it on, that gives the cooling system a bit of a head start. When
traffic picks up and moves the fan gets switched off. I also have
noticed that with the extra air flow thru the radiator core ( via the
fab'ed air "scoops" ) I find myself using the manual switch a bit less.
    Lots of folks using the accel coils and I cant say I've heard
anything bad, with the help of a bunch of friends that ride 1300's and
some research I found that the honda used a coils bearing the id # of
AW-82 and the Kaw coils bearing the ZC0006 number had the right
readings to work when tring to remove that ballast resistor.
     As for the chrome side covers vs polished aluminum, I kinda like
the polished over the chrome tho the chrome ones clean up a TON faster!

Anyways....hope some of my ramblings helped..Good Luck

                              Clyde

P.S. does the suz_re5a ID mean u got a rotary suzuki?






> --- In KawaSixes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <clyde_1300@> wrote:
> >
> > Hey everybody,
> > Figured I'd do a bit of backround here, Mark "Clyde" Thompson,
> > Streator Illinois.
> > I've got a 1980 KZ 1300 B2, with too many miles to mention, done a ton
> > of mods to the old girl and have a couple more in the works.
> > 6 blade Voyager fan blade and motor
> > Stainless Steel Radiator Scoops
> > A.P.E. Manual cam chain Adjuster
> > Yamaha 6 way adjustable handlebars
> > Voyager large oil pan
> > removed fresh air injection system and shaved the reeds from the cam
> cover
> > chrome covers all round except for the alt cover  (cracked the chrome
> > one....argghhh)
> > Passenger running boards ( via honda goldwing )
> > Vacuum fuel petcock (1980 Kz 1000)
> > Honda coils AW-82 (proper resistance for removing ballast resistor)
> > Stainless Steel Windscreen bezel
> > 95/100 Watt xenon blue headlight bulb
> > Wider more comfy Vayager driver pegs
> > Oh yeah even managed to find the room for a 45 watt x 4 speaker
> > Kenwood am-fm-cd.
> > Anyways if I can be of any help drop me a line....I'm sure I'm gonna
> > have some hair brained ideas you folks can help me with....(or talk me
> > out of ).
> >
> > Clyde
> >
>

Hi Joe,
I asked about the pan because the 79's had a problem with the
crankshaft because the oil pan was configured in such a way that the
oil pickup could run dry during hard running. They changed the pan in
80 at least that's what I understand.

Were you able to fit the new coils into the stock location?

Thanks
Bill

--- In KawaSixes@yahoogroups.com, "Bill" <kzcsi@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Clyde,
>     Sure sounds like you've been working on that 1300 for a long time.
> Can you put a picture of her up in the photos section? Do you get to
> lay down a lot of miles every year?
>
>  I've been riding Kaws since I picked up an H1 in 1972. I've owned my
> KZ900 since it was new and am impressed with how the 1300 is the same
> engine with two more cylinders and liquid cooling.
>
> Welcome to the group.
>
> Bill
>
Yeppers,
     I dont think there is one single assembly on that bike that I
haven't reduced to a pile of parts and returned it to service, some
assemblies a couple more times than others.
     I really never was a Kaw guy having had Yamaha's and the
occasional Suzuki...UNTIL....I bought this 1300, I was sold from then
on and dont believe I will ride anything else, as I said I've had it
since early 96, the cool thing is my b2 carries what I consider a low
frame # 0000184 Kaw started at 0000001, so I guess it would be the
183rd b2 ever made.
     I'm gonna work on the pics it is in winter tear down mode at the
moment. My yearly mileage is all over...some years are better than
others, best year just shy of 14,000 miles...worse year just 26
miles..... mostly due to the opening of our new business, BUT I'm
gonna fix that lack of miles this year!

Thanks Bill.... Glad to be here.

Hi Bill,

It has about 52,000 miles on it.  Oil pan is stock.  I
just put aftermarket coils in it and it runs MUCH
better.  I ran it late in the fall after about three
years of sittle idle.   I am going to try leaning the
mains this spring as it seems to run a little rich on
top.

Have there been issues with the oil pan?  (I'm
wondering why you asked...)
-Joe


--- Bill <kzcsi@...> wrote:

> No problem Joe,
>    Glad to have you aboard. How many miles have you
> got on your 13?
> Does it still have the stock oil pan?
>
> Bill
>
>




________________________________________________________________________________\
____
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
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http://games.yahoo.com/games/front

Hi Clyde,

  I could probaly do some internet research on this but I thought I
would ask first. Do you notice any difference with the Voyager fan
Settup? I also have the APE tensioner but, I am using accel coils with
no ballest resistor. Its been said the accel coils are not ideal for
the 1300 but they have worked well for me and many others - at least I
have not heard any stories of burned up igniters using the accel
coils.  I am also interested in the larger oil pan but, I am worried I
would not be able to use my near perfect exhaust system. My bike is
still a work in progess and I wish I had the chrome engine covers like
you have. As it stands I am going to try and polish up all these
pieces. Hopefully, the KZ1300 engine covers will polish up......

    Vance
--- In KawaSixes@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" <clyde_1300@...> wrote:
>
> Hey everybody,
> Figured I'd do a bit of backround here, Mark "Clyde" Thompson,
> Streator Illinois.
> I've got a 1980 KZ 1300 B2, with too many miles to mention, done a ton
> of mods to the old girl and have a couple more in the works.
> 6 blade Voyager fan blade and motor
> Stainless Steel Radiator Scoops
> A.P.E. Manual cam chain Adjuster
> Yamaha 6 way adjustable handlebars
> Voyager large oil pan
> removed fresh air injection system and shaved the reeds from the cam
cover
> chrome covers all round except for the alt cover  (cracked the chrome
> one....argghhh)
> Passenger running boards ( via honda goldwing )
> Vacuum fuel petcock (1980 Kz 1000)
> Honda coils AW-82 (proper resistance for removing ballast resistor)
> Stainless Steel Windscreen bezel
> 95/100 Watt xenon blue headlight bulb
> Wider more comfy Vayager driver pegs
> Oh yeah even managed to find the room for a 45 watt x 4 speaker
> Kenwood am-fm-cd.
> Anyways if I can be of any help drop me a line....I'm sure I'm gonna
> have some hair brained ideas you folks can help me with....(or talk me
> out of ).
>
> Clyde
>

Hi Clyde,
     Sure sounds like you've been working on that 1300 for a long time.
Can you put a picture of her up in the photos section? Do you get to
lay down a lot of miles every year?

  I've been riding Kaws since I picked up an H1 in 1972. I've owned my
KZ900 since it was new and am impressed with how the 1300 is the same
engine with two more cylinders and liquid cooling.

Welcome to the group.

Bill

Hey everybody,
Figured I'd do a bit of backround here, Mark "Clyde" Thompson,
Streator Illinois.
I've got a 1980 KZ 1300 B2, with too many miles to mention, done a ton
of mods to the old girl and have a couple more in the works.
6 blade Voyager fan blade and motor
Stainless Steel Radiator Scoops
A.P.E. Manual cam chain Adjuster
Yamaha 6 way adjustable handlebars
Voyager large oil pan
removed fresh air injection system and shaved the reeds from the cam cover
chrome covers all round except for the alt cover  (cracked the chrome
one....argghhh)
Passenger running boards ( via honda goldwing )
Vacuum fuel petcock (1980 Kz 1000)
Honda coils AW-82 (proper resistance for removing ballast resistor)
Stainless Steel Windscreen bezel
95/100 Watt xenon blue headlight bulb
Wider more comfy Vayager driver pegs
Oh yeah even managed to find the room for a 45 watt x 4 speaker
Kenwood am-fm-cd.
Anyways if I can be of any help drop me a line....I'm sure I'm gonna
have some hair brained ideas you folks can help me with....(or talk me
out of ).

Clyde

No problem Joe,
    Glad to have you aboard. How many miles have you got on your 13?
Does it still have the stock oil pan?

Bill

Bill, Sorry, I added my photo on your coils album.  You can delete at will.

Thanks
-Joe

I wrote this article a couple of years ago for KZRider.com. I'm
reposting it here just to generate some traffic.

  Written by KZCSI
Saturday, 12 November 2005
     One of the most common tasks associated with bring an older bike
back from the dead is figuring out how to deal with the varnish and
rust left over from years of neglect. After cleaning many gas tanks,
I've finally settled on this method as working best for me. I'm sure
there will be refinements and improvements, of which I'll write more
about as they evolve. Also, I'm looking forward to trying lye for tank
cleaning.
Thanks for the interest.
Bill
KZCSI
Cleaning a gas tank.

     Why do fuel tanks attract moisture?

     Here's why it happens. You park the bike with a quarter tank of
fuel probably during the day when it's warmer. That night the
temperature drops and as the air inside the tank cools it becomes less
able to hold moisture so some of the water vapor condenses. Now this
amount of water is insignificant and over night or even a couple of
weeks won't usually be a problem. But over a longer period of time,
usually months, the tank will breath in every time it cools. That new
moisture will condense then when the day warms up the tank will breath
out the air that gave up some of it's moisture yesterday. That night
as things cool down the tank will take a new breath of damp air and
the process starts over again.

      What to do if you find rust in your tank.
     Is the tank leaking? If it is either Pour 15 or Kreem will solve
the problem. Pick one and follow the prep instructions carefully.
     If the tank is still holding fuel, I like to check the quality of
the steel at critical locations before I go further. To do so, I use a
popsickle stick and test the areas adjacent to the seams. Set the tank
down and run the popsickle stick along the seams using moderate
pressure. Find the lowest part of the tank and test this area as well.
If the popsickle stick can't push a hole through the steel there's no
need for epoxy sealers. Great, you're bucks ahead and your bike will
be worth more as well. As a collector, I've learned to always check
the gas tank, not only for rust but to see if the previous owner has
had the tank sealed. I judge a sealed tank as hurting the value of a
bike more than a rusty tank.
     If the popsickle stick reveals soft areas but doesn't actually
puncture a hole, It's still a good idea to go with a sealer as the
cleaning process may well cause the tank to leak after all.

     There are plenty of methods used to clean gas tanks.
     I've used sand with steel nuts and kerosene and tumbled them for
hours. I gave up on abrasive methods because they take too much time
and the sand is too difficult to clean out when finished.
     I've used mild acid preperations such as Naval Jelly. These I gave
up on because they don't really attack the rust enough to get rid of
heavy build ups of scaly rust.
     I tried the electric method, using a battery charger and a steel
rod. I'm not sure this one accomplishes much. It didn't touch the
scale and getting at the top of the tank is tough.
     I've read about using sodium hydroxide ( lye ). It's supposed to
be a good method because it doesn't erode the base metal. I'm looking
forward to an opportunity to try it out.
     Most recently, I've settled on a muratic acid wash followed by a
dose of phosphoric acid as the best method, mostly because it always
gets the job done and doesn't require a lot of physical effort.
     To do the job you first have to decide if the tank has scaly rust
or just surface rust. If the rust hasn't gotten to the point where
it's scaly you can skip the 1/4" nuts, referred to later.
     First, flush out any oily varnish that may be coating the lower
regions of the tank with acetone or any of those engine degreasers. If
you choose the engine degreaser flush the tank with water.
     Remove the fuel level sensor. Seal it's opening with GOOD duct tape.
     Remove the petcock and seal it up with an appropriate plug or
capped section of hose.
     Dump 30 or so 1/4" nuts into the tank.
     Pour in a pint or so of muriatic acid. Seal up the fill spout with
GOOD duct tape.
     While wearing gloves, old clothes and safety goggles. Agitate the
tank for 10 to fifteen minutes. During this time you can monitor the
pressure in the tank by watching the duct tape bulging at the fill
hole. If too much pressure develops, carefully vent it by peeling the
tape back than reseal and keep shaking.
     Next pick a piece of concrete that you don't particularly care
about. Remove the tape from the sender opening and fill hole and flush
the tank with cold water. The acid that has not already been consumed
will neutralize itself on the concrete. You're still wearing goggles
and gloves right?
     Now dry off the openings and reseal them with GOOD duct tape. This
time pour in a pint of naval jelly, or milk stone remover or tile haze
remover. These are all phosphoric acid formulations. Phosphoric acid
is not as aggressive as muriatic acid and therefore is mostly a waste
of time if you're trying to really remove rust. What phosphoric acid
will really do well is leave the inside of the tank coated with iron
phosphate, which is somewhat rust resistant. For this step you do not
need much agitation. Just tumble the tank over several times and let
it set for a half hour or so and then tumble it again. After about two
hours of this go back to the concrete slab and open the tank and flush
it out thoroughly, THOUROUGHLY.
     Now bring it back in the shop and secure a blowdryer to the fill
hole and force dry the tank. This may take two hours. Position the
tank in different orientations during this process to make sure that
no seam holds water. Once it's really dry you're done. If you skip the
phosphoric acid step the inside of the tank will flash rust before you
can get it dried out.
     I've probably cleaned ten tanks with the method I described and
never damaged the exterior paint or eaten through the steel.

Good luck.
KZCSI

OK Folks, We are now four! A good Welcome to Jeff our newest. Jeff's
from down under, hey I'm needing a vacation way down South.

If the list owner over at the KZ1300 group ever get's it sorted out I
will close this place down.

In the mean time I'm the proud owner of two Kawasaki sixes. One of
which is displayed on the home page of this group. The other one is a
work in progress. I'm determined to make a street cruiser out of a
fuel injected Voyager. Hey I'm half way there. ( check out the pics in
the Photos section) If I could just fine a new rear disk.

Thanks for trying to help.

Bill
KZCSI

Hey Folks,
     I can see over at the KZ1300 group that Motoluverinus and
Wanghuali have become the most regular posters.

They'll never show their faces over here! At least not for more than
one post which'll then will soon be gone.

KZCSI

KZ1300
6/18/05 I bought this 1300, my first, two years ago, from a fellow in
Ohio and had it shipped to Oregon. When it arrived it was equipped
with a fairing but the bags and trunk were gone.
     I wanted to outfit it like a Z1300, the European naked six, to
that end, I put a six into one exhaust system on it before I ever
started it up. In retrospect that may have been a mistake because I
had no base line against which to judge the bike's performance. Sure
enough I encountered mixture problems, but before delving into the
carburetors I decided to be sure the ignition wasn't at least part of
the problem. 1300's are notorious for running hot, hot enough even to
vapor lock the carburetors. Unfortunately before all that hot air can
even get to the carburetors it has to flow around and past the coils
which are shoehorned in between the cam cover and the upper frame
tubes. Stories about broken down ignition coils are common on this
bike. One of the symptoms of a weak coil can be reduced secondary
voltage. I already knew that I disliked the stock coil setup because I
very nearly could not get the upper radiator hose back on when I was
going through the cooling system before I ever got it running. So now
I had a mission, I was going to replace the stock coils with
aftermarket units and solve the space problem at the same time.
     It was at KZ1300.com that I read an article by Bob Bezilla who
described how to fit a General Motors coil pack for a six cylinder
Buick to a Kawasaki 1300.  This was the first setup I tried, here's a
pic of that installation. I had to mold the bottom of the seat to get
enough clearance for the wire caps.
GM coil pack in the tool tray. (Check for pics in the Photos section.)
The most attractive part of this modification is how neatly the coil
pack fits into the tool tray freeing up that space above the valve
cover. Unfortunately, that's the end of the good fit. Once I made the
swap I was pleased to see that my 1300 seemed to like the new coils.
However, as I learned more about coils and ignition systems I came to
realize that the GM coil pack was a terrible fit at least
electronically. The stock coils read 1.7 ohms and are fitted in series
with a 200 watt 1.7 ohm ballast resistor for a total primary
resistance of 3.4 ohms. That means that half of the power consumed by
the ignition system goes up in heat with the other half used to
generate the secondary voltage for the spark. No wonder the stock
systems broke down easily. I had checked the GM coil pack and found
that it had .8 ohms of primary resistance, once I added the stock 1.7
ohm ballast resistor, I was right there at 2.5 ohms. It was only after
I had finished with the whole installation that I realized that the
lowered primary resistance might well cause my very valuable igniter
to go up in smoke. I could, of course, add another ballast resistor
and while that would give me the resistance that the ignition system
was used to seeing, it would also result in three quarters of the
primary energy being converted to heat. With only one quarter of the
primary voltage being used for spark I would likely end up with less
spark than I started with. I needed better modification, one that gave
me a hotter spark and freed up the space above the valve cover.
     I did a bunch of research looking for aftermarket coils that might
be smaller than the stock units or might fit as well in the tool tray
as the GM coil pack, no such luck, they're all larger than the stock
units. I checked them all Nology, Dyna, Accel and others, all of them
are larger than the stock coils. The tech department a Nology told me
to look elsewhere as their coils were rated at 3 ohms but depended on
an igniter that was current limited which the old Kaws were not. I
eventually settled on the Dyna DC1-1 which is a twin output coil rated
at 3 ohms. They sell for $155.00 per pair, yes that's right I had to
buy four coils to outfit my 1300. The folks at Dyna said that their
DC1-1 was the right coil for the job and could take the heat. So, I
started over, this time with a set and a half of Dyna 3 ohm coils.
While these are larger than the stock coils and not nearly a neat and
compact as the GM coil pack, they are almost exactly what the stock
igniter wants resistance wise, plus all the primary voltage goes to
making spark.

     There was no chance of mounting them in the stock location but I
was able to mount one where the top coil used to fit and I put the
other two back in the tool tray, where I had previously mounted the
coil pack.


Not quite a cute as the coil pack but still a lot more serviceable
than the stock setup. I made the wires long enough so that I can lift
the pair of coils and lay them on the tank to get at the air filter
and battery. Here's another pic of the whole setup. (PIcs in the
photos section.)

A few more details such as putting all the primary wires in a loom and
I'm going to call this modification done. Oh by the way it runs great!
Starts right up! Plenty of hot spark and when I need to remove the
valve cover I don't have to touch the coils.

Thanks

KZcsi

Hi folks,
     I've not put this site up here in order to take over anything. I'm
only offering to solve the spam problem over at the KZ1300 group. If
even a few of you join this group, I'll post a link over there
directing folks here and they'll all end up here eventually.

Welcome

Bill
Kzcsi