----- Original Message -----

From: Mark Thompson

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2005 8:17 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Roll centers

Duncan did say that the longer wishbones was only had a slight effect.I guess it simply reduces the amount of roll of the main chassis slightly I relation to the wheels?  I think Ill take 6mm of the rear uprights, as I can always reduce it back to 3mm with a spacer. Do you think the 6mm value is a guestimate ? Any chance of a quick overview of the work you have done, and does it require extensive modifications?

thanks

 

Mark

----- Original Message -----

From: Beale Family

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 10:41 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Roll centers

Mark

 

As I've said before on the forum, this mod works well.  I do have the longer wishbones, as you say, but those of you who know anything about roll centres and how to change them will know that changing the length of the wishbones has a minimal effect on roll centre position.  Consequently my car, despite longer wishbones also used to suffer dreadful lift off oversteer.  It happened so quickly you had absoulutely no chance of catching it.

 

Duncan had seen my car pirouetting and suggested the change.  I used a 3mm change instead of 6mm and it cured the problem.  Why did such a small change work?This is because a small vertical change to the hub upright pivot points or to the chassis pick up points has a dramatic effect on roll centre position.  The problem the G33 has in it's standard form is the relationship of the roll centre heights front to back.

 

Of course the changes also affect camber change in roll and bump/droop and it will also affect scrub.  I've comprehensively modelled both the the front and rear suspension geometry on the G33.  The rear suspension in particular (as I've said before on this forum) is pretty awful.  In my view Ginetta did good live rear axle set-ups, but never got the hang of IRS set-ups on their road cars.  However, if you are prepared to put the time and effort in, you can improve it.

 

 

Graham

 

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Mark Thompson

To: Ginetta

Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 4:34 PM

Subject: [GinettaG33] Roll centers

Having had a long chat with Duncan about the cars evolution, we have not missed much anything not listed. What was interesting however was a bit more on the roll center problem. There was around 6 cars made with longer wishbones (Graham Beales car being the only UK one) to try and reduce the effect of the incorrect roll centers. The problem shows up as  the car starts to slide under power, and when you take the power off, it carries on going sideways, or more often pirouetting down the road as most of us have found out. The modification of removing 6mm off the casting under the rose joint from the top of the rear uprights, to lower the rear roll center, and adding a 6mm spacer under the top front rose joint greatly improves things, but was only ever done on demostrator, whist production cars remained untouched ! As its a relatively simple modification anyone doing a suspention rebuild, this might be a good idea to do this at the same time. All the suspension angles and bump steer point would have to be reset afterwards. Ill do it if I have enough time after the interioir is re sorted.

 

Mark

 

 

---

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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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Whilst taking care of my beloved G33, I treated her to some Hammerite
Waxoyl last weekend. Whilst I got most of it done there was a little
bit to finish so I  bought a refill tin and topped up the original
cannister. Its one of those where you pump up the pressure with a hand
pump built into the can and then spray the stuff on. Anyway, whilst
pumping up the pressure the f**kin thing went bang and exploded !! The
handle whipped back and smashed into my hand, fractured my index
finger in 3 places. Did end up with a nice even spread of Waxoyl over
the garage walls/door/floor/face and a nice dent in the rear of the
car. As it has a pressure relief valve built into it it should never
have blown up the way it did. I suppose I'm lucky in a way, could have
been much worse.

Anybody ever tried to take on any companies for compensation ??!!

Taken a couple of snaps with my phone camera and got a witness  (whos
got a lovely sheen to their hair).

Simon.

----- Original Message -----

From: Beale Family

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 10:41 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Roll centers

Mark

 

As I've said before on the forum, this mod works well.  I do have the longer wishbones, as you say, but those of you who know anything about roll centres and how to change them will know that changing the length of the wishbones has a minimal effect on roll centre position.  Consequently my car, despite longer wishbones also used to suffer dreadful lift off oversteer.  It happened so quickly you had absoulutely no chance of catching it.

 

Duncan had seen my car pirouetting and suggested the change.  I used a 3mm change instead of 6mm and it cured the problem.  Why did such a small change work?This is because a small vertical change to the hub upright pivot points or to the chassis pick up points has a dramatic effect on roll centre position.  The problem the G33 has in it's standard form is the relationship of the roll centre heights front to back.

 

Of course the changes also affect camber change in roll and bump/droop and it will also affect scrub.  I've comprehensively modelled both the the front and rear suspension geometry on the G33.  The rear suspension in particular (as I've said before on this forum) is pretty awful.  In my view Ginetta did good live rear axle set-ups, but never got the hang of IRS set-ups on their road cars.  However, if you are prepared to put the time and effort in, you can improve it.

 

 

Graham

 

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Mark Thompson

To: Ginetta

Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 4:34 PM

Subject: [GinettaG33] Roll centers

Having had a long chat with Duncan about the cars evolution, we have not missed much anything not listed. What was interesting however was a bit more on the roll center problem. There was around 6 cars made with longer wishbones (Graham Beales car being the only UK one) to try and reduce the effect of the incorrect roll centers. The problem shows up as  the car starts to slide under power, and when you take the power off, it carries on going sideways, or more often pirouetting down the road as most of us have found out. The modification of removing 6mm off the casting under the rose joint from the top of the rear uprights, to lower the rear roll center, and adding a 6mm spacer under the top front rose joint greatly improves things, but was only ever done on demostrator, whist production cars remained untouched ! As its a relatively simple modification anyone doing a suspention rebuild, this might be a good idea to do this at the same time. All the suspension angles and bump steer point would have to be reset afterwards. Ill do it if I have enough time after the interioir is re sorted.

 

Mark

 

 

---

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.11/191 - Release Date: 12/2/2005

----- Original Message -----

From: Mark Thompson

To: Ginetta

Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 4:34 PM

Subject: [GinettaG33] Roll centers

Having had a long chat with Duncan about the cars evolution, we have not missed much anything not listed. What was interesting however was a bit more on the roll center problem. There was around 6 cars made with longer wishbones (Graham Beales car being the only UK one) to try and reduce the effect of the incorrect roll centers. The problem shows up as  the car starts to slide under power, and when you take the power off, it carries on going sideways, or more often pirouetting down the road as most of us have found out. The modification of removing 6mm off the casting under the rose joint from the top of the rear uprights, to lower the rear roll center, and adding a 6mm spacer under the top front rose joint greatly improves things, but was only ever done on demostrator, whist production cars remained untouched ! As its a relatively simple modification anyone doing a suspention rebuild, this might be a good idea to do this at the same time. All the suspension angles and bump steer point would have to be reset afterwards. Ill do it if I have enough time after the interioir is re sorted.

 

Mark

 

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Perry C. Antoniou

To: Mark Thompson ; GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 6:40 PM

Subject: [GinettaG33] G33 lights

Hi Guys,

 

The G33 front light lenses are one of two items :-

 

1. The smaller stubbier one is Renault 5

 

2. The longer slimmer one is late Lotus Elan (M100 ?) but the Isuzu engined model

 

This is 100% confirmed from my sources......................quicker than anyone at Ginetta or their dealers can answer you !

 

Perry

 

-----Original Message-----
From: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Keith Crocker
Sent: 25 October 2005 22:36
To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Brake fittings

Hello John,

I have found the following on mine !
Res to master cyl copper pipe ends are 7/16 UNF male and female.
The flexi braided hoses to the calipers use a 3/8 unf for -3 hose bulkhead
fitting and M10 X1.0 convex seat .57 under the hex into the caliper and an
M10X1.0 banjo arrangement on the front.

If memory serves me right !

Cheers
Keith



----- Original Message -----
From: "johnny_wlh" <j7wlh@...>
To: <GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 8:17 PM
Subject: [GinettaG33] Brake fittings


>I have to remake some brake lines on my car. I'm off to the car
> restoration show at Stoneleigh on Sunday and will hopefully pick up
> some brass brake fittings. Are the fittings on the 33 metric or
> imperial, or a mixture of both? I assume that the fittings onto the
> brake calipers are metric as they are relatively modern Ford items.
>
> Also, can anyone answer the query about the origin of the front lamps
> as per the previous post, as one of mine is none too clever?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/147 - Release Date: 24/10/2005
>
>



--
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/147 - Release Date: 24/10/2005

Hello John,

I have found the following on mine !
Res to master cyl copper pipe ends are 7/16 UNF male and female.
The flexi braided hoses to the calipers use a 3/8 unf for -3 hose bulkhead
fitting and M10 X1.0 convex seat .57 under the hex into the caliper and an
M10X1.0 banjo arrangement on the front.

If memory serves me right !

Cheers
Keith



----- Original Message -----
From: "johnny_wlh" <j7wlh@...>
To: <GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 8:17 PM
Subject: [GinettaG33] Brake fittings


>I have to remake some brake lines on my car. I'm off to the car
> restoration show at Stoneleigh on Sunday and will hopefully pick up
> some brass brake fittings. Are the fittings on the 33 metric or
> imperial, or a mixture of both? I assume that the fittings onto the
> brake calipers are metric as they are relatively modern Ford items.
>
> Also, can anyone answer the query about the origin of the front lamps
> as per the previous post, as one of mine is none too clever?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/147 - Release Date: 24/10/2005
>
>



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/147 - Release Date: 24/10/2005

----- Original Message -----

From: nicktowe

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, October 17, 2005 12:51 PM

Subject: [GinettaG33] New G33 Owner - some questions

Hello All

I have just bought my first G33, but it came without a handbook, so I
have been wondering about basic things like tyre pressures, oil
viscosity for engine, gearbox and diff.

If any one has any knowledge of thses things, I would love to benefit.

Also - just how much do they leak in the wet?

I am thinking of fitting a removable steering wheel (if I get the
right size I might be able to tell what speed I am doing between 20 &
140 mph), so I need to know what type of steering column the car has,
Ford Fiesta has been mentioned to me.

Thanks

Nick

----- Original Message -----

From: Paul Edwards

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 4:33 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Brake Master Cylinders

Hi Graham

 

You're ok; checked & mine are 0.70 too.  

 

Well done in Champ - with those results your car seems pretty well developed, you don't need mine!    If it doesn't sell, I may join the Champ fun myself in a year or so.

 

Paul

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Paul Edwards

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 24, 2005 9:07 AM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Brake Master Cylinders

Hi Graham

 

Hope rest of season went well for you.  If you want to keep a little more of your hard-earned, the ref. for the kit for the 0.75 Girling cylinders is SP2102, £12.02 from any good local motor factor.  I had mine done earlier in the year.

 

PS still running no a/r bar, but rear grip was certainly improved at TyCroes with rear camber increased to -2.5, so quite neutral now.   We're selling her though, despite the wins, after 14 yrs I fancy a change!

 

Paul Edwards

Hi Simon

Being a Cossie G33, my bonnet came with small holes already in roughly the
right positions, but I opened them up to just a little less than the vent
size to maximise cooling.  I have no extra bracing on the bonnet.  Sikaflex
is available in tubes (like you buy silicon sealer) and you then put the
tube in a gun to use it.  It has the consistency of putty and is a cross
between a sealer, a filler and a glue.  You can get it at your local Brown
Brothers and the like.  You squirt it on the underside of the vent, then
press it onto the bonnet and leave it there for a few hours with some heavy
objects to hold it down.

Sikaflex is not easy to spray over (I do my own spraying).  I did my G33 in
cellulose and it was difficult getting a primer to 'take' on the Siaflex.  I
expect there are  primers that would do the job properly.  I also suspect if
I'd sprayed using 2-pack I would not have had this problem.  However, I'm
not set up to do this.  You will probably find after use, as the bonnet
flexes, the paint will crack around the vent, at the interface between the
bonnet and the vent.  Don't know what the answer is here.  Probably best to
ask a professional body shop to see how they would do it.  They would
probably know the proper primer too.

My car is functional rather than concourse!  The vents look good though.


Graham



----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon B" <simon.blatcher@...>
To: <GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 6:13 PM
Subject: [GinettaG33] Bonnet Vents


Graham,

Regarding bonnet vents, I managed to get a pair of Cosworth vents.
When you cut holes in the bonnet did you have to think about giving
any extra bracing to the bonnet ?? Has it lost any of its
rigidity ?? Was just sticking them on with Sikaflex enough ??
(Sorry, don't know what Sikaflex is !!, sounds like its the glue
equivalent of gaffer tape !!)

Regards,

Simon.

P.S. Any of you guys spray cars for a living ??!!

--- In GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com, "Beale Family" <beale@o...> wrote:
>
> Simon
>
> They look like the same vents I have.  If so, they are Escort
Cosworth
> bonnet vents.  They are available from Ford, they were about £70 a
pair.
> Beware of cheap imitations as they usually are look-a-likes that
are not
> actually vents, i.e.they have no slots cut in them.  To fit them,
you then
> have to remove the bottom few millimetres of the moulding to get
them to
> flex, as the G33 bonnet is curved.  I suppose you could try
heating them up
> to shape them, but I didn't want to risk it.  Then stick them on
with
> Sikaflex.  I copied the idea from the white G33 RHD Cosworth
powered race
> car that lived at the Sheffield works for a while, many years
ago.  In fact,
> I copied quite a lot from that car!  Shame it got written off.
>
> My car produces a lot of underbonnet heat due to the turbocharger,
so the
> vents were essential, not just cosmetic.
>








Yahoo! Groups Links

If you are going to start cutting holes in the bonnet cut the holes smaller
than needed ( a series of drill holes, that can then be joined) , and use a
flap wheel to remove the excess.(You need a breathing mask as glassfibre
dust is really nasty stuff). Any other tools will cause the gel coat to
fracture and leave a rough edge. Note the power bulge on the G33 is far from
central on the bonnet, so arrange the air vents so they look correct over
any exact measurements down a center line.  If you need to curve plastic,
dip it in (very) hot water  fo a few minutes to soften it, but do proceed
with extreme caution and you should not do any damage. Hot air guns are too
harsh. I cant pass comment on vents on the top of the bonnet, but Ive not
had to reinforce the area around mine on the side as they just fit in
between two metal bracing bars already fitted by Ginetta.

Mark
---- Original Message -----
From: "Simon B" <simon.blatcher@...>
To: <GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 6:13 PM
Subject: [GinettaG33] Bonnet Vents


Graham,

Regarding bonnet vents, I managed to get a pair of Cosworth vents.
When you cut holes in the bonnet did you have to think about giving
any extra bracing to the bonnet ?? Has it lost any of its
rigidity ?? Was just sticking them on with Sikaflex enough ??
(Sorry, don't know what Sikaflex is !!, sounds like its the glue
equivalent of gaffer tape !!)

Regards,

Simon.

P.S. Any of you guys spray cars for a living ??!!

--- In GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com, "Beale Family" <beale@o...> wrote:
>
> Simon
>
> They look like the same vents I have.  If so, they are Escort
Cosworth
> bonnet vents.  They are available from Ford, they were about £70 a
pair.
> Beware of cheap imitations as they usually are look-a-likes that
are not
> actually vents, i.e.they have no slots cut in them.  To fit them,
you then
> have to remove the bottom few millimetres of the moulding to get
them to
> flex, as the G33 bonnet is curved.  I suppose you could try
heating them up
> to shape them, but I didn't want to risk it.  Then stick them on
with
> Sikaflex.  I copied the idea from the white G33 RHD Cosworth
powered race
> car that lived at the Sheffield works for a while, many years
ago.  In fact,
> I copied quite a lot from that car!  Shame it got written off.
>
> My car produces a lot of underbonnet heat due to the turbocharger,
so the
> vents were essential, not just cosmetic.
>








Yahoo! Groups Links











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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/123 - Release Date: 10/6/2005

Forgive me if this has been covered previously. The tyres on my G33
are coming up for renewal and the exact replacements are now
unavailable. These are currently Bridgestones 215x50,15" ZR and I
would like to replace them with the same size. I can only find Dunlop
SP Sports available, does anyone know any different? I cover approx.
2500 miles per year mainly road use with very occasional track day use.

Graham,

Regarding bonnet vents, I managed to get a pair of Cosworth vents.
When you cut holes in the bonnet did you have to think about giving
any extra bracing to the bonnet ?? Has it lost any of its
rigidity ?? Was just sticking them on with Sikaflex enough ??
(Sorry, don't know what Sikaflex is !!, sounds like its the glue
equivalent of gaffer tape !!)

Regards,

Simon.

P.S. Any of you guys spray cars for a living ??!!

--- In GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com, "Beale Family" <beale@o...> wrote:
>
> Simon
>
> They look like the same vents I have.  If so, they are Escort
Cosworth
> bonnet vents.  They are available from Ford, they were about £70 a
pair.
> Beware of cheap imitations as they usually are look-a-likes that
are not
> actually vents, i.e.they have no slots cut in them.  To fit them,
you then
> have to remove the bottom few millimetres of the moulding to get
them to
> flex, as the G33 bonnet is curved.  I suppose you could try
heating them up
> to shape them, but I didn't want to risk it.  Then stick them on
with
> Sikaflex.  I copied the idea from the white G33 RHD Cosworth
powered race
> car that lived at the Sheffield works for a while, many years
ago.  In fact,
> I copied quite a lot from that car!  Shame it got written off.
>
> My car produces a lot of underbonnet heat due to the turbocharger,
so the
> vents were essential, not just cosmetic.
>

Johnny - as Keith says, a number of suspects!   There is one spectacularly
stupid bit of design in this system, which is that an all-steel cable is
laid in a small trough along the top of the sill, in line with the handle,
with no drain.  So IF the sill ever gets wet (!) the trough holds water for
ages and corrodes the outer and inner cable.

At least replacement with a plastic-sleeved type is not difficult, just
needing the carpet to be stuck back down!

Paul

Hi John,

I would also suspect the cable, catch or the press button/lock is sticking.
I would start by taking the panel off from under the rear wheel arch to gain
access to the catch workings, from here you can see what is sticking, plus
you can lube the catch workings/press button and also you are at the highest
point to spray something down the cable.

I will have to pop in on my way home from work one evening if thats OK.

Keith.

----- Original Message -----
From: "johnny_wlh" <j7wlh@...>
To: <GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 8:47 PM
Subject: [GinettaG33] Doors


> Got home from the successful MOT pass last night and when I tried to
> shut the drivers door it wouldn't stay shut, the latch refusing to
> catch. The pull up handle on the sill sems as if it won't quite sit
> down properly, so presumably the cable is sticking or something.
>
> Any guidance as to door catch repairs would be wlecome, before I take
> off the inspection panel/tear up the carpet.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/119 - Release Date:
> 04/10/2005
>
>



--
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/119 - Release Date: 04/10/2005

Keith

I was looking again at the rod end stuff and realised I've implied the rod
ends are made by RESB.  They are not.  RESB are just a supplier of a number
of manufacturers types of rod ends, including NMB, Rose (that's where the
term rose joint comes from), National and Tescubal.  Mine are made by NMB, a
Japanese company.  John Handley (Bearings) Ltd mergred with RESB, so they
are one of the same thing, a UK supplier of rod ends and spherical bearings
(RESB - get it!).

Sorry for the confusion.


Graham




----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Crocker" <keithcrocker@...>
To: <GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Knocking noise............well, more of a clonk
really.


> Hi Simon,
>
> I think we all agree that the Ginetta diff location method is a bad bit of
> engineering !
>
> I would suggest the following steps:
> First checking that all the bolts that go into the Diff are tight.
> Then the Prop to Diff flange bolts.
>
> Check that the rear mounting bracket is not cracked through the two small
> bolt holes at the top of the diff, this is the normal weak point.
> These two small bolts can easily strip their threads in the diff.
>
> Both the rear and front brackets can be removed without taking the diff
> out,
> by disconnecting the drive/prop shafts and Petrol tank with a lot of man
> handling !
>
> I have had both rear and front brackets break over the years and designed
> a
> replacement setup based on the Cosworth one but have not fitted it yet.
>
> Due to the mentioned access constraints I have been forced to repair and
> stengthen the existing ones by adding extra plating to weak points and
> putting steel helicoils in the two small bolt holes.
>
> Since I had RollCentre make and fit a Roll over bar I now have the
> required
> access from the top below the humps due to cutting the panel they cover
> out
> for fitment ! So perhaps one day I shall weld in the extra mounting
> bracket.
>
> P.S.
>
> Can anyone recommend were to get some replacement steering rose joints
> from
> and what strength they should be ?
>
> Keith.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Simon B" <simon.blatcher@...>
> To: <GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 3:57 PM
> Subject: [GinettaG33] Knocking noise............well, more of a clonk
> really.
>
>
>> Does anybody have any idea why when I pull away from standstill I get
>> a 'clonk'noise and then soemtimes again when I put it into second and
>> lift the clutch ?? Does it mean I've got a  bit of play in the diff ??
>> If so what is the remedy ?? No expensive answers please............
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/116 - Release Date:
>> 30/09/2005
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/116 - Release Date: 30/09/2005
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

----- Original Message -----

From: Paul Edwards

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 24, 2005 9:07 AM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Brake Master Cylinders

Hi Graham

 

Hope rest of season went well for you.  If you want to keep a little more of your hard-earned, the ref. for the kit for the 0.75 Girling cylinders is SP2102, £12.02 from any good local motor factor.  I had mine done earlier in the year.

 

PS still running no a/r bar, but rear grip was certainly improved at TyCroes with rear camber increased to -2.5, so quite neutral now.   We're selling her though, despite the wins, after 14 yrs I fancy a change!

 

Paul Edwards

---

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----- Original Message -----

From: Perry C. Antoniou

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 9:42 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Hi Graham,

 

I know my price ranges are out of most peoples budgets, but we are talking about top spec stuff that will last forever.  The Avo's on my G33 lasted best part of only 12,000 miles hard driving; this is not good.  The Custom Built Alloy Bodied Leda units will last forever.  This also included the correct springs as well as the correct rose joints with the super douper inserts and all the Nylatron bushes.  There are 24 settings hard to soft for bump !  All the bells and whistles as they say.

 

Pardon my ignorance, I always thought rose joints/spherical bearings are one and the same thing ?  I've always called them Rose Joints, but maybe they are spherical bearings...............especially for £700 !  I did stick with the nylon bushings at the chassis end of the wishbones...............not to clear but remember Vegatune mentioning something about this being OK as the wishbones are unequal length.  The Nylatron bushings were a must; there needs to be some give in a hard suspension setup.  The original bushes are Triumph one's arn't they ?

 

My G34 is the same, but OHLINS dampers and springs with external gas cylinders; they look the part and are also alloy bodied and anodised and the G34 handles like it's on rails straight out of the box.  There was a little modifiation I had to do to the rear leading link arms to stop her kicking out, but this was sorted in a couple of hours work.  Volvo did their homework with the suspension on the G34, so I don't have to !

 

BUT REALISTICALLY I suspect you could now get some decent GAZ units ( I rate them ) and a decent set of springs that will be as good as the setup I have for less than £1,000.  I see them all the time now in various car magazines; Coilovers seem to be the fashion and rising sales trends seems to have made the prices drop............even Leda units.

 

The G33 is a drivers car and worth every penny; yes you may get a 355 overtake you; but you will give it some hard work for it to do so........................try some nitrous and see nothing ever keep up with you !

 

And yes I drag raced the G33 for a couple of years in the Euro Challenge and had a pretty good consitant late 10 second 1/4 mile time.......................got the bug so bad I now have a real doorslammer dragster................and use more nitrous than every dentist in North London !

 

The G33 is still mid rebuild; it shoudl have been finished a couple of years ago but then the G34 and Sunbeam Lotus have materialised ( amongst other cars ! )

 

Are you ever in London ?

 

Perry

 

 

----- Original Message ----

From: Beale Family

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 9:49 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Perry

 

Thanks for your contribution.  £3.5k is a bit out of my price range!  £700 on rose joints would be pretty pointless if you stayed with metalastic bushes at the other end, so I guess you went to nylon to replace them, or rose joints both ends?  Which was it, if you don't mind me asking?  This is something I've been considering for a while and will probably take the plunge on the rear suspension during the obligatory racers 'winter re-build' either using rose joints or spherical bearings.

 

For what it's worth, my G33 regularly outperforms many supercars, including Ferraris and Porches, at the sprints and hillclimbs I compete in.  So do many of the other Ginettas.  Subarus and Mitsubishi EVOs are also regularly embarrassed, unless it's wet!  Fun isn't it!

 

From what both you and Mark have said, it sounds like the rollbar is probably worth a try as the top speeds on hillclimbs and sprints are rarely in excess of 100mph in roadgoing class and the current set-up I have is very stable at speed, so a tad more instability won't hurt if it means it stays a little flatter through the twisty bits.

 

I agree that the spring rates and therefore, wheel frequencies are all wrong on the standard set up.  I also agree that ride height is important.  I have analysed both front and rear suspension camber change in bump/droop/roll and the rear suspension is particularly sensitive to changes in ride height.

 

I still have the AVO dampers and have not experimented with others, but I know a couple of other G33 pilots have, to good effect.

 

Thanks again for your help.  Are you the guy who drag raced his G33?

 

 

Graham

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Perry C. Antoniou

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 9:28 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Hi Guys,

 

Mine had a factory fitted one but I have now removed it.  It worked hard at low speeds into corners, but found it made the car slightly twitchy at very high speeds.  Once removed going into corners felt a little more body roll as if it was going to oversteer but the high speed driving felt much more controlled.  BUT I then had all the standard AVO's and springs all changed to custom build Leda's and had the suspension all re-setup and adjusted by Vegantune and even without the anti-roll bar it goes into corners hard, no understeer, no body roll and I feel confident at all speeds and not frightented to push it hard on the bends and keep the power through.  I believe the original suspension setup was pooh on the G33, even though all the right things were there it did not have the correct springs and dampers and ride settings. I understand that most people to not have my budget, it cost me over £3500 and £700 of that was using the right type of rose joints, but when serious money and the right people are used, then the G33 can be made to handle like it's on rails.  I now drive a G33 that handles like the best of the supercars.

 

Funny thing though.............I have a Sunbeam Lotus and common knowledge was to remove the front anti-roll kit and fit a rear anti-roll kit...................which I duly did soon after buying it.  This makes all Sunbeam Lotus' cars handle like no other.............about as good as my G33.............no understeer and no oversteer, just pure FIGHT THE STEERING WHEEL sideways cornering.

 

Perry

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Beale Family

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 10:24 PM

Subject: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Hello G33 fans.  I wonder if you can help?  I am interested to know who has tried a front anti-roll bar on their G33.  If you have one fitted, a photograph showing how it fits would be useful.  Also the diameter of the bar would also be useful information.  How has the handling changed?  Or has it always been on the car?

 

I do not use one at present.  Judging by the photographs of my car at various rounds of the GOC Speed Championship, it adopts some pretty extreme roll angles at times, despite the wheel rates and damping being about right.  Strikes me increased roll resistance would help.  Of course, it is usual with RWD cars to go for a front anti-roll bar, but inceasing roll resistance at the front (whilst keeping rear roll resistance constant) will reduce oversteer (usually a good thing) but by how much?  Hence my interest in the diameter of the roll-bars in use out there.  Too much and understeer will result.

 

Of course, you could give me a taste of my own medicine here and refuse to tell me the details, on the basis that I don't always reveal the details of my mods!  I will understand, as I can see it from your point of view.

 

But if you can help, I would appreciate it.

 

 

Graham

----- Original Message -----

From: Paul Edwards

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, September 24, 2005 9:07 AM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Brake Master Cylinders

Hi Graham

 

Hope rest of season went well for you.  If you want to keep a little more of your hard-earned, the ref. for the kit for the 0.75 Girling cylinders is SP2102, £12.02 from any good local motor factor.  I had mine done earlier in the year.

 

PS still running no a/r bar, but rear grip was certainly improved at TyCroes with rear camber increased to -2.5, so quite neutral now.   We're selling her though, despite the wins, after 14 yrs I fancy a change!

 

Paul Edwards

----- Original Message -----

From: Mark Thompson

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 8:33 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

The factory fit one I had was 17mm Diameter. I know the factory did try various different thickness' but when I asked Duncan Campbell about the track testing, nothing was that conclusive as a miracle cure.

 

Mark

----- Original Message -----

From: Beale Family

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 9:49 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Perry

 

Thanks for your contribution.  £3.5k is a bit out of my price range!  £700 on rose joints would be pretty pointless if you stayed with metalastic bushes at the other end, so I guess you went to nylon to replace them, or rose joints both ends?  Which was it, if you don't mind me asking?  This is something I've been considering for a while and will probably take the plunge on the rear suspension during the obligatory racers 'winter re-build' either using rose joints or spherical bearings.

 

For what it's worth, my G33 regularly outperforms many supercars, including Ferraris and Porches, at the sprints and hillclimbs I compete in.  So do many of the other Ginettas.  Subarus and Mitsubishi EVOs are also regularly embarrassed, unless it's wet!  Fun isn't it!

 

From what both you and Mark have said, it sounds like the rollbar is probably worth a try as the top speeds on hillclimbs and sprints are rarely in excess of 100mph in roadgoing class and the current set-up I have is very stable at speed, so a tad more instability won't hurt if it means it stays a little flatter through the twisty bits.

 

I agree that the spring rates and therefore, wheel frequencies are all wrong on the standard set up.  I also agree that ride height is important.  I have analysed both front and rear suspension camber change in bump/droop/roll and the rear suspension is particularly sensitive to changes in ride height.

 

I still have the AVO dampers and have not experimented with others, but I know a couple of other G33 pilots have, to good effect.

 

Thanks again for your help.  Are you the guy who drag raced his G33?

 

 

Graham

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Perry C. Antoniou

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 9:28 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Hi Guys,

 

Mine had a factory fitted one but I have now removed it.  It worked hard at low speeds into corners, but found it made the car slightly twitchy at very high speeds.  Once removed going into corners felt a little more body roll as if it was going to oversteer but the high speed driving felt much more controlled.  BUT I then had all the standard AVO's and springs all changed to custom build Leda's and had the suspension all re-setup and adjusted by Vegantune and even without the anti-roll bar it goes into corners hard, no understeer, no body roll and I feel confident at all speeds and not frightented to push it hard on the bends and keep the power through.  I believe the original suspension setup was pooh on the G33, even though all the right things were there it did not have the correct springs and dampers and ride settings. I understand that most people to not have my budget, it cost me over £3500 and £700 of that was using the right type of rose joints, but when serious money and the right people are used, then the G33 can be made to handle like it's on rails.  I now drive a G33 that handles like the best of the supercars.

 

Funny thing though.............I have a Sunbeam Lotus and common knowledge was to remove the front anti-roll kit and fit a rear anti-roll kit...................which I duly did soon after buying it.  This makes all Sunbeam Lotus' cars handle like no other.............about as good as my G33.............no understeer and no oversteer, just pure FIGHT THE STEERING WHEEL sideways cornering.

 

Perry

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Beale Family

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 10:24 PM

Subject: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Hello G33 fans.  I wonder if you can help?  I am interested to know who has tried a front anti-roll bar on their G33.  If you have one fitted, a photograph showing how it fits would be useful.  Also the diameter of the bar would also be useful information.  How has the handling changed?  Or has it always been on the car?

 

I do not use one at present.  Judging by the photographs of my car at various rounds of the GOC Speed Championship, it adopts some pretty extreme roll angles at times, despite the wheel rates and damping being about right.  Strikes me increased roll resistance would help.  Of course, it is usual with RWD cars to go for a front anti-roll bar, but inceasing roll resistance at the front (whilst keeping rear roll resistance constant) will reduce oversteer (usually a good thing) but by how much?  Hence my interest in the diameter of the roll-bars in use out there.  Too much and understeer will result.

 

Of course, you could give me a taste of my own medicine here and refuse to tell me the details, on the basis that I don't always reveal the details of my mods!  I will understand, as I can see it from your point of view.

 

But if you can help, I would appreciate it.

 

 

Graham

---

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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.3/106 - Release Date: 9/19/2005

----- Original Message ----

From: Beale Family

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 9:49 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Perry

 

Thanks for your contribution.  £3.5k is a bit out of my price range!  £700 on rose joints would be pretty pointless if you stayed with metalastic bushes at the other end, so I guess you went to nylon to replace them, or rose joints both ends?  Which was it, if you don't mind me asking?  This is something I've been considering for a while and will probably take the plunge on the rear suspension during the obligatory racers 'winter re-build' either using rose joints or spherical bearings.

 

For what it's worth, my G33 regularly outperforms many supercars, including Ferraris and Porches, at the sprints and hillclimbs I compete in.  So do many of the other Ginettas.  Subarus and Mitsubishi EVOs are also regularly embarrassed, unless it's wet!  Fun isn't it!

 

From what both you and Mark have said, it sounds like the rollbar is probably worth a try as the top speeds on hillclimbs and sprints are rarely in excess of 100mph in roadgoing class and the current set-up I have is very stable at speed, so a tad more instability won't hurt if it means it stays a little flatter through the twisty bits.

 

I agree that the spring rates and therefore, wheel frequencies are all wrong on the standard set up.  I also agree that ride height is important.  I have analysed both front and rear suspension camber change in bump/droop/roll and the rear suspension is particularly sensitive to changes in ride height.

 

I still have the AVO dampers and have not experimented with others, but I know a couple of other G33 pilots have, to good effect.

 

Thanks again for your help.  Are you the guy who drag raced his G33?

 

 

Graham

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Perry C. Antoniou

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 9:28 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Hi Guys,

 

Mine had a factory fitted one but I have now removed it.  It worked hard at low speeds into corners, but found it made the car slightly twitchy at very high speeds.  Once removed going into corners felt a little more body roll as if it was going to oversteer but the high speed driving felt much more controlled.  BUT I then had all the standard AVO's and springs all changed to custom build Leda's and had the suspension all re-setup and adjusted by Vegantune and even without the anti-roll bar it goes into corners hard, no understeer, no body roll and I feel confident at all speeds and not frightented to push it hard on the bends and keep the power through.  I believe the original suspension setup was pooh on the G33, even though all the right things were there it did not have the correct springs and dampers and ride settings. I understand that most people to not have my budget, it cost me over £3500 and £700 of that was using the right type of rose joints, but when serious money and the right people are used, then the G33 can be made to handle like it's on rails.  I now drive a G33 that handles like the best of the supercars.

 

Funny thing though.............I have a Sunbeam Lotus and common knowledge was to remove the front anti-roll kit and fit a rear anti-roll kit...................which I duly did soon after buying it.  This makes all Sunbeam Lotus' cars handle like no other.............about as good as my G33.............no understeer and no oversteer, just pure FIGHT THE STEERING WHEEL sideways cornering.

 

Perry

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Beale Family

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 10:24 PM

Subject: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Hello G33 fans.  I wonder if you can help?  I am interested to know who has tried a front anti-roll bar on their G33.  If you have one fitted, a photograph showing how it fits would be useful.  Also the diameter of the bar would also be useful information.  How has the handling changed?  Or has it always been on the car?

 

I do not use one at present.  Judging by the photographs of my car at various rounds of the GOC Speed Championship, it adopts some pretty extreme roll angles at times, despite the wheel rates and damping being about right.  Strikes me increased roll resistance would help.  Of course, it is usual with RWD cars to go for a front anti-roll bar, but inceasing roll resistance at the front (whilst keeping rear roll resistance constant) will reduce oversteer (usually a good thing) but by how much?  Hence my interest in the diameter of the roll-bars in use out there.  Too much and understeer will result.

 

Of course, you could give me a taste of my own medicine here and refuse to tell me the details, on the basis that I don't always reveal the details of my mods!  I will understand, as I can see it from your point of view.

 

But if you can help, I would appreciate it.

 

 

Graham

----- Original Message -----

From: Beale Family

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 6:28 PM

Subject: [GinettaG33] Brake Master Cylinders

Hello again

 

Anyone know the bore size of the brake master cylinders on the G33 please?  Time for an overhaul and I want to order the seal kits.

 

Thanks in anticipation.

 

 

Graham

----- Original Message -----

From: Beale Family

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 9:49 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Perry

 

Thanks for your contribution.  £3.5k is a bit out of my price range!  £700 on rose joints would be pretty pointless if you stayed with metalastic bushes at the other end, so I guess you went to nylon to replace them, or rose joints both ends?  Which was it, if you don't mind me asking?  This is something I've been considering for a while and will probably take the plunge on the rear suspension during the obligatory racers 'winter re-build' either using rose joints or spherical bearings.

 

For what it's worth, my G33 regularly outperforms many supercars, including Ferraris and Porches, at the sprints and hillclimbs I compete in.  So do many of the other Ginettas.  Subarus and Mitsubishi EVOs are also regularly embarrassed, unless it's wet!  Fun isn't it!

 

From what both you and Mark have said, it sounds like the rollbar is probably worth a try as the top speeds on hillclimbs and sprints are rarely in excess of 100mph in roadgoing class and the current set-up I have is very stable at speed, so a tad more instability won't hurt if it means it stays a little flatter through the twisty bits.

 

I agree that the spring rates and therefore, wheel frequencies are all wrong on the standard set up.  I also agree that ride height is important.  I have analysed both front and rear suspension camber change in bump/droop/roll and the rear suspension is particularly sensitive to changes in ride height.

 

I still have the AVO dampers and have not experimented with others, but I know a couple of other G33 pilots have, to good effect.

 

Thanks again for your help.  Are you the guy who drag raced his G33?

 

 

Graham

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Perry C. Antoniou

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 9:28 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Hi Guys,

 

Mine had a factory fitted one but I have now removed it.  It worked hard at low speeds into corners, but found it made the car slightly twitchy at very high speeds.  Once removed going into corners felt a little more body roll as if it was going to oversteer but the high speed driving felt much more controlled.  BUT I then had all the standard AVO's and springs all changed to custom build Leda's and had the suspension all re-setup and adjusted by Vegantune and even without the anti-roll bar it goes into corners hard, no understeer, no body roll and I feel confident at all speeds and not frightented to push it hard on the bends and keep the power through.  I believe the original suspension setup was pooh on the G33, even though all the right things were there it did not have the correct springs and dampers and ride settings. I understand that most people to not have my budget, it cost me over £3500 and £700 of that was using the right type of rose joints, but when serious money and the right people are used, then the G33 can be made to handle like it's on rails.  I now drive a G33 that handles like the best of the supercars.

 

Funny thing though.............I have a Sunbeam Lotus and common knowledge was to remove the front anti-roll kit and fit a rear anti-roll kit...................which I duly did soon after buying it.  This makes all Sunbeam Lotus' cars handle like no other.............about as good as my G33.............no understeer and no oversteer, just pure FIGHT THE STEERING WHEEL sideways cornering.

 

Perry

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Beale Family

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 10:24 PM

Subject: [GinettaG33] Front Anti-Roll Bar

Hello G33 fans.  I wonder if you can help?  I am interested to know who has tried a front anti-roll bar on their G33.  If you have one fitted, a photograph showing how it fits would be useful.  Also the diameter of the bar would also be useful information.  How has the handling changed?  Or has it always been on the car?

 

I do not use one at present.  Judging by the photographs of my car at various rounds of the GOC Speed Championship, it adopts some pretty extreme roll angles at times, despite the wheel rates and damping being about right.  Strikes me increased roll resistance would help.  Of course, it is usual with RWD cars to go for a front anti-roll bar, but inceasing roll resistance at the front (whilst keeping rear roll resistance constant) will reduce oversteer (usually a good thing) but by how much?  Hence my interest in the diameter of the roll-bars in use out there.  Too much and understeer will result.

 

Of course, you could give me a taste of my own medicine here and refuse to tell me the details, on the basis that I don't always reveal the details of my mods!  I will understand, as I can see it from your point of view.

 

But if you can help, I would appreciate it.

 

 

Graham

---

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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.3/106 - Release Date: 9/19/2005

----- Original Message -----

From: Mark Thompson

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 7:56 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Gearbox oil

Found this on the RPI site after some digging around on the LT77 box. The D suffix box is from the SD1. There are subsiquent E,F,G suffix boxes still being used by the MOD. Everyone else seems to be using the R380 box thats a much better replacement, but retails around £1200. Aparently it bolts in wothout too much problem.

 

 

Whining or Growling in forward gears

This is normally noticed in all gears except 4th which will remain quiet because it is the only gear that is 'Straight through'. All other gears make use of the layshaft, and as the bearing damage problem is normally in the layshaft area, the 4th gear will be the only quiet gear to select. A good indicator that things need attention.

As this gearbox evolved, Rover made a few modifications, none of which cured the problems. The 'D' suffix box is by far the strongest, but as strength was not the problem this seemed a little inappropriate to us. Also, they changed their mind three times as to what Transmission Oil to use. In the first instance it was [I believe] EP80 (or perhaps 90) but this transmission oil is very thick when cold and did not allow easy selection of 2nd or 3rd gear until the transmission was warmer.

The second recommendation was Castrol TQF. This was far better for the gear changes, however, as it is an auto transmission fluid some problems were encountered with its lubrication qualities and many gearboxes failed.

The third recommendation (and I have heard of none since) was to use Castrol SMX, although I believe this is, in fact, still an auto fluid, it is a synthetic fluid. We have been recommending this ourselves over the past 7 or 8 years and I have had no bad findings on its us

The noise in my box is only just perceptable (27000 miles only), so I hope that a change to Castrol SMX will keep things sweet for a bit longer. Im not pulling the engine out or spending £1200 just for this !

 

Mark

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Keith Crocker

To: GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2005 9:09 PM

Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Gearbox oil

Mark,

You are right about the ATF, it was only used to stop bulking before the box was warmed through, especially the change to second.

 

Some people I know use 20/50 engine oil as recommended by some tuners.

My brother uses Redline MTL which is a fully synth gearbox oil but expensive. An alternative is a fully synth 75W80 which some racers use.

I have only used Dexron II myself.

If it is a bearing as suspected I'm not sure if any of the above will help too much.

 

Hope this helps,

Keith.

----- Original Message -----

From: Mark Thompson

To: Ginetta

Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2005 8:40 PM

Subject: [GinettaG33] Gearbox oil

Anyone using EP80 in the G33 gearbox over the recomended Automatic transmision fluid as recomended in the manual. I reckon the ATQ is a bit thin for this application, and I assume it was used to make the gear shift easier ? My noise from the footwell is definately a bearing in the box, so I want to try a thicker oil to keep it quiet for the time being.

 

Mark

---

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Simon

It is indeed a turbocharged engine (260bhp).  I don't know if there are any
other surviving RHD Cosworth G33s left.

Does anyone know?


Graham



----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon B" <simon.blatcher@...>
To: <GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Light Blue G33


> Thanks Graham,
>
> Yes !! Thats where they're from, thought I'd recoginsed them from
> somewhere
> !!
>
> Look good on a bonnet of a G33.
>
> Is yours one of the G33 cosworths then if its a turbo jobby ??!!
>
> Regards,
>
> Simon.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Beale Family" <beale@...>
> To: <GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 10:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [GinettaG33] Light Blue G33
>
>
>> Simon
>>
>> They look like the same vents I have.  If so, they are Escort Cosworth
>> bonnet vents.  They are available from Ford, they were about £70 a pair.
>> Beware of cheap imitations as they usually are look-a-likes that are not
>> actually vents, i.e.they have no slots cut in them.  To fit them, you
>> then
>> have to remove the bottom few millimetres of the moulding to get them to
>> flex, as the G33 bonnet is curved.  I suppose you could try heating them
>> up
>> to shape them, but I didn't want to risk it.  Then stick them on with
>> Sikaflex.  I copied the idea from the white G33 RHD Cosworth powered race
>> car that lived at the Sheffield works for a while, many years ago.  In
>> fact,
>> I copied quite a lot from that car!  Shame it got written off.
>>
>> My car produces a lot of underbonnet heat due to the turbocharger, so the
>> vents were essential, not just cosmetic.
>>
>>
>> Graham
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Simon B" <simon.blatcher@...>
>> To: <GinettaG33@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 11:02 PM
>> Subject: [GinettaG33] Light Blue G33
>>
>>
>>> Who's is the light blue G33 in the photos from Rockingham ?? What are
>>> the bonnet vents you have used ?? What are they from ??
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Simon.
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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