I'm not in any way in the dog house, Rocky. I am not employed by any oil co and
I can support what I want. Ole Bill got all muffed up because I threw some
facts and tech stuff from the internet back at him and all he could do was to
say "don't try to be an expert out of your field"....Heck, I don't have a field.
He said he does though. All I want to be is a very well informed person on
subjects that interest me. I am very much informed about oils and have hept up
with them for ever. I also try to keep up with what the "real" oil experts
have to say....especially the ones who are not on the oil CO pay roles. On the
back of every can of oil is some sort of hot line...call it and you will be told
how good their product is and all that it is good for.... As for Mobil One, a
while back lots of Bikers, Lloyd included, used the Mobil 15-50 car
oil....worked like a charm. Then, as per mandate, they took nearly all the
ZDDP out of it. The ones in the know dropped its use immediately. When I
suggest to use only an SF/SG oil in your bike or Cushman that is info taken
from hours of studying oil Tech articles.....Bill says "cooking oil" is OK for
Cushmans. Have you considered taking that advice? As for Mobil One Bike
oil, it is hard to find and the most expensive of the Bunch....only one place I
know of sells it here. It is easier to find Amsoil Bike oil here... In fact
Amsoil 10-40 Bike oil is what I use in my Halfabusa (Suzuki Burgman)....this oil
is probably the best there is or will ever be. (check it out as to all the tests
and specs)...no kidding....trouble used to be the way you had to purchase
it....now Amsoil is selling case lots to participating bike stores...runs about
$11 a quart unless slightly discounted ...the Mobil One Bike oil is even
slightly higher and not near as good according to the tests. Mobil One oil
used to be at the top of the heap for synthetics and such....they thought they
were the best....now they have lots of competition in cars, trucks, and
bikes....they have lost a bunch of ground in the market....wonder what they
might tell you? As for Castrol, go to the British Castrol web site and they
show all the car and bike oils they produce for the various age motors....they
make products for older cars and bikes with lots of ZDDP in it. ( just like
what the US calls SF/SG oils)...none of the variation oils by Castrol are sold
in this country. Castrol came on strong in this country back in the late 50s
with the sports car market....all the VW dealers of that time sold it as
well...some even poo pooed castrol...said not as good as good ole ESSO
oils....Castrol took over the US Bike market sometime in the later 60s....If
you like Castrol, then, as I suggested earlier, use Castrol 4T petroleum bike
oil....it is SG.....so much for oils....I need to go sand blast a couple of step
thru frames...I will dig up an article written by a former Oil Co chemist from
Houston who is a big bike enthusiast.....His article puts it to you straight
without any hype or BS....I'll get it on here later.....Carl....
----- Original Message -----
From: Rocky in Arizona
To: CushmanGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 2:19 AM
Subject: Re: [CushmanGroup] Re: Engine oil variations





Carl, my dear fellow, if you carefully read what I wrote on Mobil1 motorcycle
oil, you saw that the PRODUCT MANAGER FOR THE MOBIL1 MOTORCYCLE OIL said that
the Mobil1 motorcycle oils are less lubricous than the car formulas.

In whom do you think I am gonna' put my faith on the difference between Mobil1
car oil vs. Mobil1 motorcycle oil?? You or the Mobil1 product manager??

That product manager would say you are all wet on that score, Carl, but I
don't want to be that harsh on you, as I think you've been thrown in the dog
house enough these past 36 hours, so I won't say it.

Rocky in AZ


--- On Sat, 7/4/09, carl <csharley@...> wrote:

From: carl <csharley@...>
Subject: Re: [CushmanGroup] Re: Engine oil variations
To: CushmanGroup@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, July 4, 2009, 6:09 PM

Rocky, the current car oils (Mobil One included), all contain additives which
are called friction modifiers (I think molybdenum disulfide is one)..This term
friction modifier is some sort of a contradiction. .....according to some of the
tech stuff I have read the main thrust of car oils today is basically two
things....reduce emissions and improve gas mileage. The sole function for the
best lubrication possible leading to great longevity has sorta gone by the
wayside..... some of these friction modifiers cause wet clutches to slip on some
powerful bike engines. if car oils are used.... Taking all the modifiers out
doesn't make the bike oils less lubricious because the ZDDP (Zink dithio
diphosphate) which they still contain makes the bike oil even more lubricious
than car oils....Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: Rocky Rocheux
To: CushmanGroup@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 5:48 PM
Subject: [CushmanGroup] Re: Engine oil variations

Rocky here all,
Just as a side note, when they brought out the then new Mobil1 for
motorcycles, I phoned 1-800-ASK-MOBIL. I ended up talking to the product manager
for the new motorcycle version. I asked him the difference. The thing that still
stays with me from that chat was that the Mobil1 m/cycle oil was less lubricous
because the car version could make clutches slip. Yes in many bikes the
crankcase oil also lubes a wet clutch. I had already been using the car version
in all my bikes and at the time I had a 1400cc Suzuki Intruder and indeed it did
make that clutch chatter (which is a kind of slipping I guess), but that would
only happen if I really "got on it." I figured since I don't do high power
burnouts as a matter of course, I would stay with the car versions.

Bill, I am not by any stretch Carl's defender, but did you read that page on
Roush oils? It seemed pretty interesting.

I will call Castrol's chat line next week 800-748-7788 and ask their wizards
their take on all this.

Thanks for listening.
Rocky in AZ

--- In CushmanGroup@ yahoogroups. com, wpredock@... wrote:
>
> darn carl i hate to disagree with you again on this oil thing. there is
> still plenty of zddp in the new oils.you aren't going to hurt the flat
tappets
> in a flat head cushman. the spring pressure is next to nothing. the ones
> that are having problems are race engines with hp engines with flat
> tappets. they run extreme valve spring pressures. there are still alot of
new
> cars and motorcycles that have flat tappets. my gold wing has flat tappets
and
> it calls for 10w -30 oil. i use mobil1 10w-30 in every thing i own
> including the flat head cushmans i had. never had an oil related problem.the
new
> oils contain a minimum of 800 ppm of zddp this is only down about 300ppm
from
> the old oils.the new slicker moly more than makes up for it. folks need to
> catch up with the new hi tech era. these new oils are so superior to the
> old crap and it gets better all the time. it won't be long thick oil won't
> even be available for automotive use. low viscosity oils just cool and
> lubricate better. you got to get out of that old school thinking and enter
the
> new hi tech world. old wives tales aren't worth the powder to blow them up.
> bill
>
>
> In a message dated 7/4/2009 10:51:23 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
> csharley@... writes:
>
>
>
>
>
> Ok, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now you can call me
> an expert here too if you desire.....Multigra Ok, Rocky, you asked for it
> and here is myOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now you
> can call me an expert here too if you desire.....Multigra <WBR>de oils are
OK
> in Cushman flatheadsOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two
> bits....now you can call me an expert here too if you desire.....Multigra
<WBR>de
> oils are OK in Cushman flatheads... <WBR>.where you are, it needs to be at
> least 20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be sure the oil put in
> your cushman is either SF or SG in classification. <WBR>...Now these are
> obsolete oil classifications except for motorcycle and antique car
oils....the
> SF and SG oOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now you
> can call me an expert here too if you desire.....Multigra <WBR>de oils are
OK
> in Cushman flatheads... <WBR>.where you are, it needs to be at least
> 20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be sure the oil put in your
cushman
> is either SF or SG in classification. <WBR>...Now these are obsolete oil
> classifications except for motorcycle and antique car oils....the SF and SG
> oils are needed here because they still contain the proper amount of ZINK to
> protect the older flat Tappet cam enginesOk, Rocky, you asked for it and
> here is my two bits....now you can call me an expert here too if you
> desire.....Multigra <WBR>de oils are OK in Cushman flatheads... <WBR>.where
you are,
> it needs to be at least 20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be
> sure the oil put in your cushman is either SF or SG in
> classification. <WBR>...Now these are obsolete oil classifications except
for motorcycle and
> antique car oils....the SF and SG oils are needed here because they still
> contain the proper amount of ZINK to protect the older flat Tappet cam
> engines....antique stuff does not havOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is
my two
> bits....now you can call me an expert here too if you
> desire.....Multigra <WBR>de oils are OK in Cushman flatheads... <WBR>.where
you are, it needs to
> be at least 20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be sure the oil
> put in your cushman is either SF or SG in classification. <WBR>...Now these
> are obsolete oil classifications except for motorcycle and antique car
> oils....the SF and SG oils are needed here because they still contain the
proper
> amount Ok, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now you can
> call mOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now yoOk,
Rocky,
> you asked for it and her
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rocky in Arizona
> To: _CushmanGroup@ CushmanGroupCus_ (mailto:CushmanGroup@ yahoogroups. com)
> Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 11:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [CushmanGroup] Engine oil variations
>
> Thanks. Good to know others are using multi-grades.
> The Chevy 235, 6 cylinder engine. Cotton wick seals around the
> crankshaft-- The Chevy 235, 6 cylinder engine. Cotton w
>
> In 1954, every 4th car sold was a Chevy. Wish it'd stayed that way.
> Appreciate the oil info, Paul, thank you.
>
> Rocky
>
> --- On Sat, 7/4/09, PV-Ents <_pv-ents@.. ._
> (mailto:pv-ents@ ...) > wrote:
>
> From: PV-Ents <_pv-ents@.. ._ (mailto:pv-ents@ ...) >
> Subject: Re: [CushmanGroup] Engine oil variations
> To: _CushmanGroup@ CushmanGroupCus_ (mailto:CushmanGroup@ yahoogroups. com)
> Date: Saturday, July 4, 2009, 12:18 AM
>
> After the Insulation Fiassco?? No way "Jose".. Not with a 10' Pole..
>
> I will say this much..Summer I use 20/50 grade. Winter same thing.."Fl
> Winters"
>
> NY winters 5w/20.. In every thing I run.. Did My First Chevy Valve Job in
> 1940..ASE certified. AP certified..
>
> Paul
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Rocky in Arizona
>
> To: cushmangroup@ yahoogroups. com
>
> Sent: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 20:04:44 -0400 (EDT)
>
> Subject: [CushmanGroup] Engine oil variations
>
> I just put a quart of new Castrol Edge oil in my engine. It claims 8 times
> better lubrication than Mobil1 on their ad on the yahoomail page from
> which I just clicked away.
>
> The guy who recently worked on my scoot put 30 wt oil in there. I asked
> him if it were non-detergent and he said no. I don't recall his entire
> comments, but it was like this is just a non-fancy basic oil.
>
> He said that multi-grades and esp. synthetics are not good for Cushmans in
> that the oil pump does not do well in getting them up and into the
> necessary spots.
>
> I would be interested in what others think about using multi-grades and
> synthetics and what they might think about Castrol's claim.
>
> Rocky in AZ
>
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