Carl, my dear fellow, if you carefully read what I wrote on Mobil1 motorcycle
oil, you saw that the PRODUCT MANAGER FOR THE MOBIL1 MOTORCYCLE OIL said that
the Mobil1 motorcycle oils are less lubricous than the car formulas. 
 
In whom do you think I am gonna' put my faith on the difference between
Mobil1 car oil vs. Mobil1 motorcycle oil??  You or the Mobil1 product manager?? 
 
That product manager would say you are all wet on that score, Carl, but I don't
want to be that harsh on you, as I think you've been thrown in the dog house
enough these past 36 hours, so I won't say it. 
 
Rocky in AZ
 


--- On Sat, 7/4/09, carl <csharley@...> wrote:


From: carl <csharley@...>
Subject: Re: [CushmanGroup] Re: Engine oil variations
To: CushmanGroup@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, July 4, 2009, 6:09 PM








Rocky, the current car oils (Mobil One included), all contain additives which
are called friction modifiers (I think molybdenum disulfide is one)..This term
friction modifier is some sort of a contradiction. .....according to some of the
tech stuff I have read the main thrust of car oils today is basically two
things....reduce emissions and improve gas mileage. The sole function for the
best lubrication possible leading to great longevity has sorta gone by the
wayside..... some of these friction modifiers cause wet clutches to slip on some
powerful bike engines. if car oils are used.... Taking all the modifiers out
doesn't make the bike oils less lubricious because the ZDDP (Zink dithio
diphosphate) which they still contain makes the bike oil even more lubricious
than car oils....Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: Rocky Rocheux
To: CushmanGroup@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 5:48 PM
Subject: [CushmanGroup] Re: Engine oil variations

Rocky here all,
Just as a side note, when they brought out the then new Mobil1 for motorcycles,
I phoned 1-800-ASK-MOBIL. I ended up talking to the product manager for the new
motorcycle version. I asked him the difference. The thing that still stays with
me from that chat was that the Mobil1 m/cycle oil was less lubricous because the
car version could make clutches slip. Yes in many bikes the crankcase oil also
lubes a wet clutch. I had already been using the car version in all my bikes and
at the time I had a 1400cc Suzuki Intruder and indeed it did make that clutch
chatter (which is a kind of slipping I guess), but that would only happen if I
really "got on it." I figured since I don't do high power burnouts as a matter
of course, I would stay with the car versions.

Bill, I am not by any stretch Carl's defender, but did you read that page on
Roush oils? It seemed pretty interesting.

I will call Castrol's chat line next week 800-748-7788 and ask their wizards
their take on all this.

Thanks for listening.
Rocky in AZ

--- In CushmanGroup@ yahoogroups. com, wpredock@... wrote:
>
> darn carl i hate to disagree with you again on this oil thing. there is
> still plenty of zddp in the new oils.you aren't going to hurt the flat tappets
> in a flat head cushman. the spring pressure is next to nothing. the ones
> that are having problems are race engines with hp engines with flat
> tappets. they run extreme valve spring pressures. there are still alot of new
> cars and motorcycles that have flat tappets. my gold wing has flat tappets and
> it calls for 10w -30 oil. i use mobil1 10w-30 in every thing i own
> including the flat head cushmans i had. never had an oil related problem.the
new
> oils contain a minimum of 800 ppm of zddp this is only down about 300ppm from
> the old oils.the new slicker moly more than makes up for it. folks need to
> catch up with the new hi tech era. these new oils are so superior to the
> old crap and it gets better all the time. it won't be long thick oil won't
> even be available for automotive use. low viscosity oils just cool and
> lubricate better. you got to get out of that old school thinking and enter the
> new hi tech world. old wives tales aren't worth the powder to blow them up.
> bill
>
>
> In a message dated 7/4/2009 10:51:23 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
> csharley@... writes:
>
>
>
>
>
> Ok, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now you can call me
> an expert here too if you desire.....Multigra Ok, Rocky, you asked for it
> and here is myOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now you
> can call me an expert here too if you desire.....Multigra <WBR>de oils are OK
> in Cushman flatheadsOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two
> bits....now you can call me an expert here too if you desire.....Multigra
<WBR>de
> oils are OK in Cushman flatheads... <WBR>.where you are, it needs to be at
> least 20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be sure the oil put in
> your cushman is either SF or SG in classification. <WBR>...Now these are
> obsolete oil classifications except for motorcycle and antique car oils....the
> SF and SG oOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now you
> can call me an expert here too if you desire.....Multigra <WBR>de oils are OK
> in Cushman flatheads... <WBR>.where you are, it needs to be at least
> 20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be sure the oil put in your
cushman
> is either SF or SG in classification. <WBR>...Now these are obsolete oil
> classifications except for motorcycle and antique car oils....the SF and SG
> oils are needed here because they still contain the proper amount of ZINK to
> protect the older flat Tappet cam enginesOk, Rocky, you asked for it and
> here is my two bits....now you can call me an expert here too if you
> desire.....Multigra <WBR>de oils are OK in Cushman flatheads... <WBR>.where
you are,
> it needs to be at least 20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be
> sure the oil put in your cushman is either SF or SG in
> classification. <WBR>...Now these are obsolete oil classifications except for
motorcycle and
> antique car oils....the SF and SG oils are needed here because they still
> contain the proper amount of ZINK to protect the older flat Tappet cam
> engines....antique stuff does not havOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is
my two
> bits....now you can call me an expert here too if you
> desire.....Multigra <WBR>de oils are OK in Cushman flatheads... <WBR>.where
you are, it needs to
> be at least 20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be sure the oil
> put in your cushman is either SF or SG in classification. <WBR>...Now these
> are obsolete oil classifications except for motorcycle and antique car
> oils....the SF and SG oils are needed here because they still contain the
proper
> amount Ok, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now you can
> call mOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now yoOk, Rocky,
> you asked for it and her
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rocky in Arizona
> To: _CushmanGroup@ CushmanGroupCus_ (mailto:CushmanGroup@ yahoogroups. com)
> Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 11:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [CushmanGroup] Engine oil variations
>
> Thanks. Good to know others are using multi-grades.
> The Chevy 235, 6 cylinder engine. Cotton wick seals around the
> crankshaft-- The Chevy 235, 6 cylinder engine. Cotton w
>
> In 1954, every 4th car sold was a Chevy. Wish it'd stayed that way.
> Appreciate the oil info, Paul, thank you.
>
> Rocky
>
> --- On Sat, 7/4/09, PV-Ents <_pv-ents@.. ._
> (mailto:pv-ents@ ...) > wrote:
>
> From: PV-Ents <_pv-ents@.. ._ (mailto:pv-ents@ ...) >
> Subject: Re: [CushmanGroup] Engine oil variations
> To: _CushmanGroup@ CushmanGroupCus_ (mailto:CushmanGroup@ yahoogroups. com)
> Date: Saturday, July 4, 2009, 12:18 AM
>
> After the Insulation Fiassco?? No way "Jose".. Not with a 10' Pole..
>
> I will say this much..Summer I use 20/50 grade. Winter same thing.."Fl
> Winters"
>
> NY winters 5w/20.. In every thing I run.. Did My First Chevy Valve Job in
> 1940..ASE certified. AP certified..
>
> Paul
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Rocky in Arizona
>
> To: cushmangroup@ yahoogroups. com
>
> Sent: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 20:04:44 -0400 (EDT)
>
> Subject: [CushmanGroup] Engine oil variations
>
> I just put a quart of new Castrol Edge oil in my engine. It claims 8 times
> better lubrication than Mobil1 on their ad on the yahoomail page from
> which I just clicked away.
>
> The guy who recently worked on my scoot put 30 wt oil in there. I asked
> him if it were non-detergent and he said no. I don't recall his entire
> comments, but it was like this is just a non-fancy basic oil.
>
> He said that multi-grades and esp. synthetics are not good for Cushmans in
> that the oil pump does not do well in getting them up and into the
> necessary spots.
>
> I would be interested in what others think about using multi-grades and
> synthetics and what they might think about Castrol's claim.
>
> Rocky in AZ
>
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