Bill, with all due respect, I have to disagree with you again.... On the
contrary, I feel I have learned a lot on this subject. I am certainly not
trying to move into your field. I need to give you some figures and they
pretty much speak for them selves. The ZDDP in SF or SG oils was running
about 0.15 ....Thru each classification the ZDDP has been reduced gradually (as
Gov. mandated) until it has ended up in Class. M oils at 0.008 or something
like that..... This is what all the uproar is about. It is about the problems
developing in the older non-roller cam motors before the nineties when nearly
all went roller cam.... According to what I have read, the oil is not actually
lubing the flat tappet when it is on the cam lobe as the oil is all squeezed
out. This spot is lubed by the Phosphorous itself....take away the phosphorous
and the wear begins......Check out the pictures of ruined early mustang cams and
tappets on the internet....they sorta speak for themselves too.... This is why
there are ZDDP additives (Lucas and Eastwood)....What you are saying is sorta
like all the arguments passed around some years back saying that we will never
miss the lead that was taken outa gasoline... Well We did end up missing it in
older cars and bikes and the same deal is going on with the oil. To keep on
saying all is OK and fine in view of all the evidence to the contrary reminds me
of someone being a bit stubborn, maybe..... Might want to check with Lloyd and
ask him if his Hi Tech modified flat head motors are simple....same with the OMC
modified of his. Don't think cooking oil is what he uses......I have a lot of
money in my flat head motors as well as my Vanguards.... I am going to give them
the benefit of the doubt and use the SF/SG oils as has been strongly suggested..
Carl----- Original Message -----
From: wpredock@...
To: CushmanGroup@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: [CushmanGroup] Engine oil variations





hate to be blunt, but i don't think you learned to much. never try to be
an expert out of your field. i work with lubrication every day so i have to
stay on top of it. to each his own. every one has to use what makes them
feel best. who cares what is right for the motor. the cushman engine is as low
tech as you can get. it would probably do fine on cooking oil. i have to g
o with the oil engineers and my own experience building all kinds of
motors. and watching wear patterns on various parts. that's my job as a
machinist. i have to work with aircraft tolerance day in and day out with all
grades
of surface finishes. bill


In a message dated 7/4/2009 6:28:27 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
csharley@... writes:

I hate to disagree with you to, Bill, but check out all the sources on the
internet...all the technical writings and there are plenty...check with the
Porsche Club of America, Ask Jack Rousch, the NHRA, and others....Might
want to check with Cummins Diesel as well....I know you said the same thing
back in the winter but I have done a lot of learning since then.......Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: _wpredock@..._ (mailto:wpredock@...)
To: _CushmanGroup@CushmanGroupCus_ (mailto:CushmanGroup@yahoogroups.com)
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: [CushmanGroup] Engine oil variations

darn carl i hate to disagree with you again on this oil thing. there is
still plenty of zddp in the new oils.you aren't going to hurt the flat
tappets
in a flat head cushman. the spring pressure is next to nothing. the ones
that are having problems are race engines with hp engines with flat
tappets. they run extreme valve spring pressures. there are still alot of
new
cars and motorcycles that have flat tappets. my gold wing has flat tappets
and
it calls for 10w -30 oil. i use mobil1 10w-30 in every thing i own
including the flat head cushmans i had. never had an oil related
problem.the new
oils contain a minimum of 800 ppm of zddp this is only down about 300ppm
from
the old oils.the new slicker moly more than makes up for it. folks need to
catch up with the new hi tech era. these new oils are so superior to the
old crap and it gets better all the time. it won't be long thick oil won't
even be available for automotive use. low viscosity oils just cool and
lubricate better. you got to get out of that old school thinking and enter
the
new hi tech world. old wives tales aren't worth the powder to blow them
up.
bill

In a message dated 7/4/2009 10:51:23 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
_csharley@..._ (mailto:csharley@...) writes:

Ok, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now you can call me
an expert here too if you desire.....Multigraan expert here too if you de
and here is myOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now
you
can call me an expert here too if you desire.....Multigra<WBR>de oils are
OK
in Cushman flatheadsOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two
bits....now you can call me an expert here too if you
desire.....Multigra<WBR>de
oils are OK in Cushman flatheads...<WBR>.where you are, it needs to be at
least 20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be sure the oil put
in
your cushman is either SF or SG in classification.<WBR>...Now these are
obsolete oil classifications except for motorcycle and antique car
oils....the
SF and SG oOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now you
can call me an expert here too if you desire.....Multigra<WBR>de oils are
OK
in Cushman flatheads...<WBR>.where you are, it needs to be at least
20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be sure the oil put in your
cushman
is either SF or SG in classification.<WBR>...Now these are obsolete oil
classifications except for motorcycle and antique car oils....the SF and
SG
oils are needed here because they still contain the proper amount of ZINK
to
protect the older flat Tappet cam enginesOk, Rocky, you asked for it and
here is my two bits....now you can call me an expert here too if you
desire.....Multigra<WBR>de oils are OK in Cushman flatheads...<WBR>.where
you are,
it needs to be at least 20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be
sure the oil put in your cushman is either SF or SG in
classification.<WBR>...Now these are obsolete oil classifications except
for motorcycle and
antique car oils....the SF and SG oils are needed here because they still
contain the proper amount of ZINK to protect the older flat Tappet cam
engines....antique stuff does not havOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here
is my two
bits....now you can call me an expert here too if you
desire.....Multigra<WBR>de oils are OK in Cushman flatheads...<WBR>.where
you are, it needs to
be at least 20-50.....Now it goes beyond that. You need to be sure the oil
put in your cushman is either SF or SG in classification.<WBR>...Now these

are obsolete oil classifications except for motorcycle and antique car
oils....the SF and SG oils are needed here because they still contain the
proper
amount Ok, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now you can
call mOk, Rocky, you asked for it and here is my two bits....now yoOk,
Rocky,
you asked for it and her
----- Original Message -----
From: Rocky in Arizona
To: _CushmanGroup@To:
_CushmanGroup@<WBR>Cushma_CushmanGroup@CushmanGroupCus_
(mailto:CushmanGroup@yahoogroups.com) )
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: [CushmanGroup] Engine oil variations

Thanks. Good to know others are using multi-grades.
The Chevy 235, 6 cylinder engine. Cotton wick seals around the
crankshaft--crankshaft--<WBR>The Chevy 235, 6 cylinder

In 1954, every 4th car sold was a Chevy. Wish it'd stayed that way.
Appreciate the oil info, Paul, thank you.

Rocky

--- On Sat, 7/4/09, PV-Ents <__pv-ents@embarqmail_pv_
(mailto:_pv-ents@...) -_
(mailto:_pv-ents@...-_ (mailto:pv-ents@...) ) > wrote:

From: PV-Ents <__pv-ents@embarqmail_pv_ (mailto:_pv-ents@...) -_
(mailto:_pv-ents@..._ (mailto:pv-ents@...) ) >
Subject: Re: [CushmanGroup] Engine oil variations
To: _CushmanGroup@To: _CushmanGroup@<WB_CushmanGroup@CushmanGroupCus_
(mailto:CushmanGroup@yahoogroups.com) )
Date: Saturday, July 4, 2009, 12:18 AM

After the Insulation Fiassco?? No way "Jose".. Not with a 10' Pole..

I will say this much..Summer I use 20/50 grade. Winter same thing.."Fl
Winters"

NY winters 5w/20.. In every thing I run.. Did My First Chevy Valve Job in
1940..ASE certified. AP certified..

Paul

----- Original Message -----

From: Rocky in Arizona

To: cushmangroup@ yahoogroups. com

Sent: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 20:04:44 -0400 (EDT)

Subject: [CushmanGroup] Engine oil variations

I just put a quart of new Castrol Edge oil in my engine. It claims 8 times
better lubrication than Mobil1 on their ad on the yahoomail page from
which I just clicked away.

The guy who recently worked on my scoot put 30 wt oil in there. I asked
him if it were non-detergent and he said no. I don't recall his entire
comments, but it was like this is just a non-fancy basic oil.

He said that multi-grades and esp. synthetics are not good for Cushmans in
that the oil pump does not do well in getting them up and into the
necessary spots.

I would be interested in what others think about using multi-grades and
synthetics and what they might think about Castrol's claim.

Rocky in AZ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]