--- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, "robert502738" <pete_appleby@...> wrote:
>
> How do you "just unclip the cover"  as the hand book says, on the number plate
lights , tried most thing and dont wont to break the cover, also tips on how to
get to the bulbs on the idicator side repeaters again book says "Slide forwords
or backwords and pull towards you" aint working for me
>
> Cheers Pete
>
hi,
my "favourit" Citroen garage mechanics changed mine and I watched them snap a
plastic lug off -and they then put a mastic tape on to stick it back
in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I believe you have to use a fine screw driver and try to sqeeze the sides in
-but wait for some of our forum experts to reply if you have timeto wait.

perhaps ok to drive IF YOU HAVE 2 BULBS IN THE UNIT.
.
Last week the idiots tried to remove the high stoplight on my estate and failed
--they were trying to use screw drivers to prize open the red cover before I
stopped them and said I would go to another garage.
I RETURNED NEXT DAY WITH A HAYNES MANUAL SHOWING THAT  THE SPLIT WINDOW OPENED,
WHERE 4 TORQ SCREWS HOLD THE TOP PLASTIC TRIM INCLUDING THE DIODE STOP BULB.
I HAD FORGOT MY REAR WINDOW WAS NOT OPENING ,AND AS I NEVER USED IT ,I NEVER HAD
IT FIXED.
,
There a lot of so called trained mechanics who I call cowboys to the annoyance
of a guy in France where I now live saying they all are trained etc..
FOR EXAMPLE SEEMY POST BELOW.

JUST spent 4 trips to the garage to get them to agree a low brake fluid was not
normal as they told me .
  FIRST TIME IN 8 YEARS that I used a can to top up as it was going down daily .
  Yhey say there is a small reservoir under the master cylinder which had
collected my leak!!!!!!!!!!
Master cylinder replaced for 400euro as I THINK YOU CANNOT REPLACE THE INSIDE
SEAL OF THE BOSCH CYLINDER.-UNLIKE OTHER TYPES.

How do you "just unclip the cover"  as the hand book says, on the number plate
lights , tried most thing and dont wont to break the cover, also tips on how to
get to the bulbs on the idicator side repeaters again book says "Slide forwords
or backwords and pull towards you" aint working for me

Cheers Pete

well ,I returned to the garage when an English trainee mechanic who speaks
fluent french translated for me the problem.
After only visiting them 4 times to tell them I was loosing a lot of fluid but
could not see any in car beneath footpedal master cylinder nor at the 4 wheels
cylinders,they found that the master was the problem.Claim a seal inside the
Bosch cylinder was leaking and it had to be replaced by a new unit.So I suppose
no maintenance seals on this make.Any one had this problem??
the brake fluid was overfilled to the neck of the reservoir and I was told this
would reduce eventually.!!!!!!!!!!
I do not think very qickly and have so far removed 20ml.!!!!!
ANOTHER CITROEN GARAGE WORKING AT IT'S BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

--- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, "freecorrectwrong" <freecorrectwrong@...> wrote:
>
> thanks will get my a straw-she ha splenty of wind!!!!!!!!!!!!!! no only joking
i know it is dangerous stuff to swallow etc.
> will ask main citroen garage in another town whether they have no maintenance
of slave cyclinders and whether the garage i used was correct-no use for current
problem but i have not paid the bill yet!!
>
> --- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, Richardomorris@ wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/11/2009 17:32:32 GMT Standard Time,
> > freecorrectwrong@ writes:
> >
> > IS  THERE ANY REASON WHY LEVEL SHOULD ONLY BE AT THE MAXIMUM LEVEL
> > MARKED??IF SO I  WILL TRY AND TAKE SOME OUT.
> > THANKS.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > So it doesn't spill out I think, a small syringe would work -  probably
> > only 20ml over though.
> >
> > ___________________________________________________________________________
> > Richard  Morris
> > C5 HPi Exclusive, 2CV6Spécial,  BertoneX1/9
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

Bright Sunshine - are you bragging, or abroad?!

Pete.




________________________________
From: CHRISTOPHER PARSONS <candkparsons@...>
To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 16 November, 2009 7:40:41
Subject: Re: [C5-L] Headlamps and rear lights not working

 
Thanks to Mike and Steve,

Problem now fixed - both bulbs had blown in the front and a reset
seems to have cured the rear (unless I made a mistake in the bright
sunshine)

Chris

On 15 Nov 2009, at 21:54, Mike Philpott wrote:

> Chris,
>
> There are two fuse boxes. One in the glove compartment and one under
> the
> bonnet to the right of the engine. Have you checked both?
>
> Mike
>
> christantom wrote:
> >
> >
> > My first post
> >
> > I have a 2003 2.2 HDi SX estate with automatic headlights. YEsterday
> > the headlights and rear lights stopped working automatically and
> > manually. Everything else is fine ie main beam works ok (flash and
> > with dipped lights selected on but not illuminated) , the fogs are
> ok,
> > brake lights ok . I can't find the fuse for the rear lights either
> >
> > Any thoughts
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> > ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -
> >
> >
> >
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.66/2504 - Release Date:
> 11/15/09 07:50:00
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks to Mike and Steve,

Problem now fixed - both bulbs had blown in the front and a reset
seems to have cured the rear (unless I made a mistake in the bright
sunshine)

Chris

On 15 Nov 2009, at 21:54, Mike Philpott wrote:

> Chris,
>
> There are two fuse boxes. One in the glove compartment and one under
> the
> bonnet to the right of the engine. Have you checked both?
>
> Mike
>
> christantom wrote:
> >
> >
> > My first post
> >
> > I have a 2003 2.2 HDi SX estate with automatic headlights. YEsterday
> > the headlights and rear lights stopped working automatically and
> > manually. Everything else is fine ie main beam works ok (flash and
> > with dipped lights selected on but not illuminated), the fogs are
> ok,
> > brake lights ok . I can't find the fuse for the rear lights either
> >
> > Any thoughts
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.66/2504 - Release Date:
> 11/15/09 07:50:00
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Chris,

There are two fuse boxes. One in the glove compartment and one under the
bonnet to the right of the engine. Have you checked both?

Mike

christantom wrote:
>
>
> My first post
>
> I have a 2003 2.2 HDi SX estate with automatic headlights. YEsterday
> the headlights and rear lights stopped working automatically and
> manually. Everything else is fine ie main beam works ok (flash and
> with dipped lights selected on but not illuminated), the fogs are ok,
> brake lights ok . I can't find the fuse for the rear lights either
>
> Any thoughts
>
> Chris
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.5.425 / Virus Database: 270.14.66/2504 - Release Date: 11/15/09
07:50:00
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My first post

I have a 2003 2.2 HDi SX estate with automatic headlights.  YEsterday the
headlights and rear lights stopped working automatically and manually. 
Everything else is fine ie main beam works ok (flash and with dipped lights
selected on but not illuminated), the fogs are ok, brake lights ok .  I can't
find the fuse for the rear lights either

Any thoughts

Chris

The fuel pump on my 2001 v6 makes a continuous droning noise,sometimes, on tick
over,outdoing the engine! And sometimes it makes no noise at all!I'm going to
change the filter, if I knew where it was! Can anyone tell me? And any ideas
about the noisy pump? Dave.

Just a thought,

You can buy a Teflon baking sheet to prevent roasts from sticking. Would
this make a good high temperature gasket material for the calipers?

Did the Xantia with copper grease, seemed to last OK.



Bob.



-----Original Message-----
From: C5-L@yahoogroups.com [mailto:C5-L@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
clifftoff
Sent: 13 November 2009 18:08
To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [C5-L] Re: 2002 C5 2.2 HDI Rear Disc and pad change





Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions.... Due to work the car is
still on the axle stands.

However I have bought 4 nice new shiny bolts to replace the tatty old
caliper bolts just taken off (eventually with lots of elbow grease!). I have
also just bought a replacement refurbed caliper from eurocarparts ready to
be put on this Sunday. Not only that but I have also bought a 12 x 1.25 tap
just incase i need to clear through any glue or even rethread the hole where
the caliper bolts onto.

Well we shall soon see!

Cliff

--- In C5-L@yahoogroups. <mailto:C5-L%40yahoogroups.com> com,
"luminousfleshgiant" <luminousfleshgiant@...> wrote:
>
>
> except that both the trailing arm and the caliper are aluminium alloy.
> the actual corrosion mechanism must be a bit more complex than a simple
galvanic reaction.
>
> other than that, there are some good DIY tricks in this thread.
>
> regards
> Paul
>
> --- In C5-L@yahoogroups. <mailto:C5-L%40yahoogroups.com> com, Tony Day
<tonyd@> wrote:
>
> > > Alloy caliper bolted to steel suspension arm, with no gasket spells
> > > corrosion between the 2 parts, so powerful it will cause the caliper
to
> > > misalign, causing pads to wear at an angle and if really severe cause
the
> > > caliper to touch the disc.
> > >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions.... Due to work the car is still on
the axle stands.

However I have bought 4 nice new shiny bolts to replace the tatty old caliper
bolts just taken off (eventually with lots of elbow grease!). I have also just
bought a replacement refurbed caliper from eurocarparts ready to be put on this
Sunday. Not only that but I have also bought a 12 x 1.25 tap just incase i need
to clear through any glue or even rethread the hole where the caliper bolts
onto.

Well we shall soon see!

Cliff

--- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, "luminousfleshgiant" <luminousfleshgiant@...>
wrote:
>
>
> except that both the trailing arm and the caliper are aluminium alloy.
> the actual corrosion mechanism must be a bit more complex than a simple
galvanic reaction.
>
> other than that, there are some good DIY tricks in this thread.
>
> regards
> Paul
>
> --- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, Tony Day <tonyd@> wrote:
>
> > > Alloy caliper bolted to steel suspension arm, with no gasket spells
> > > corrosion between the 2 parts, so powerful it will cause the caliper to
> > > misalign, causing pads to wear at an angle and if really severe cause the
> > > caliper to touch the disc.
> > >
>

HI,

Has someone already experienced changing the drivers door handle for Citroen C5
2001. I want to change it by myself as I already purchased the handle and it
cost 68e (They gave the whole part as dont have only handle that I broke). Now I
want to avoid the extra 50 euros and do it myself. Are there any instructuions
available somewhere? Any guidance will be appreciated.

Best Regards

Majid

thanks will get my a straw-she ha splenty of wind!!!!!!!!!!!!!! no only joking i
know it is dangerous stuff to swallow etc.
will ask main citroen garage in another town whether they have no maintenance of
slave cyclinders and whether the garage i used was correct-no use for current
problem but i have not paid the bill yet!!

--- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, Richardomorris@... wrote:
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/11/2009 17:32:32 GMT Standard Time,
> freecorrectwrong@... writes:
>
> IS  THERE ANY REASON WHY LEVEL SHOULD ONLY BE AT THE MAXIMUM LEVEL
> MARKED??IF SO I  WILL TRY AND TAKE SOME OUT.
> THANKS.
>
>
>
>
> So it doesn't spill out I think, a small syringe would work -  probably
> only 20ml over though.
>
> ___________________________________________________________________________
> Richard  Morris
> C5 HPi Exclusive, 2CV6Spécial,  BertoneX1/9
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

fluid expansion due to heat

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: freecorrectwrong
   To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 5:31 PM
   Subject: [C5-L] Re: brake liquid level low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!---help please.



   WELL CHECKED CAR WHEN I GOT HOME ANDD LET IT SETTLE DOWN.

   I NOTICED THE"COWBOY MECHANICS" DO NOT KNOW BASIC THINGS---BEFORE I COMPLAINED
LEVEL LOW AS DUE TO LOSS OF FLIUD.

   NOW IT HAS BEEN FILLED RIGHT UP TO THE NECK -ABOVE MAXIMUM LEVEL AND THEY
MANAGED TO PUSH INTO THE BRAKE FLUID TANK THE SMALL FILTER INSIDE THE
CAP.!!!!!!!!!!!!

   IS THERE ANY REASON WHY LEVEL SHOULD ONLY BE AT THE MAXIMUM LEVEL MARKED??IF
SO I WILL TRY AND TAKE SOME OUT.
   THANKS.

   --- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, Richardomorris@... wrote:
   >
   >
   >
   > In a message dated 10/11/2009 11:09:42 GMT Standard Time,
   > freecorrectwrong@... writes:
   >
   > WOW !!--THAT IS AN EXPENSIVE FUEL PUMP-I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT A FUEL PUMP
   > WOULD BE CHEAPER THAN A MASTER CYLINDER FOR A CITROEN C5.
   > LET'S HOPEMINE DOES NOT STOP!!!
   >
   > There are two fuel pumps - one in the tank (low lift 3bar pressure) and
   > the high pressure one to the fuel rail (80bar). Guess which one went! I
   > think the diesel pumps are about the same cost, but not as troublesome - I
   > expect the diesel is more lubricating.
   > The main dealer that fitted it charges 55â,¬ an hour.
   >
   >
   >
   > __________________________________________________________
   > Richard Morris
   > C5 HPi Exclusive, 2CV6Spécial, BertoneX1/9
   >
   >
   >
   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
   >





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 10/11/2009 17:32:32 GMT Standard Time,
freecorrectwrong@... writes:

IS  THERE ANY REASON WHY LEVEL SHOULD ONLY BE AT THE MAXIMUM LEVEL
MARKED??IF SO I  WILL TRY AND TAKE SOME OUT.
THANKS.




So it doesn't spill out I think, a small syringe would work -  probably
only 20ml over though.

___________________________________________________________________________
Richard  Morris
C5 HPi Exclusive, 2CV6Spécial,  BertoneX1/9




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

WELL CHECKED CAR WHEN I GOT HOME ANDD LET IT SETTLE DOWN.

I NOTICED THE"COWBOY MECHANICS" DO NOT KNOW BASIC THINGS---BEFORE I COMPLAINED
LEVEL LOW AS DUE TO LOSS OF FLIUD.

NOW IT HAS BEEN FILLED RIGHT UP TO THE NECK -ABOVE MAXIMUM LEVEL AND THEY
MANAGED TO PUSH INTO THE BRAKE  FLUID TANK THE SMALL FILTER INSIDE THE
CAP.!!!!!!!!!!!!

IS THERE ANY REASON WHY LEVEL SHOULD ONLY BE AT THE MAXIMUM LEVEL MARKED??IF SO
I WILL TRY AND TAKE SOME OUT.
THANKS.

--- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, Richardomorris@... wrote:
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/11/2009 11:09:42 GMT Standard Time,
> freecorrectwrong@... writes:
>
> WOW  !!--THAT IS AN EXPENSIVE FUEL PUMP-I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT A FUEL PUMP
> WOULD BE  CHEAPER THAN A MASTER CYLINDER FOR A CITROEN C5.
> LET'S HOPEMINE DOES NOT  STOP!!!
>
> There are two fuel pumps  - one in the tank (low lift 3bar pressure)  and
> the high pressure one to the fuel rail (80bar). Guess which one went! I
> think the diesel pumps are about the same cost, but not as troublesome - I
> expect the diesel is more lubricating.
> The main dealer that fitted it charges 55€ an hour.
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________________________
> Richard  Morris
> C5 HPi Exclusive, 2CV6Spécial,  BertoneX1/9
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

In a message dated 10/11/2009 11:09:42 GMT Standard Time,
freecorrectwrong@... writes:

WOW  !!--THAT IS AN EXPENSIVE FUEL PUMP-I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT A FUEL PUMP
WOULD BE  CHEAPER THAN A MASTER CYLINDER FOR A CITROEN C5.
LET'S HOPEMINE DOES NOT  STOP!!!

There are two fuel pumps  - one in the tank (low lift 3bar pressure)  and
the high pressure one to the fuel rail (80bar). Guess which one went! I
think the diesel pumps are about the same cost, but not as troublesome - I
expect the diesel is more lubricating.
The main dealer that fitted it charges 55€ an hour.



___________________________________________________________________________
Richard  Morris
C5 HPi Exclusive, 2CV6Spécial,  BertoneX1/9



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

well whatever the cost I had to have it done as I only have 1 car and live in
the countryside in France--transport like buses is non-existant in many parts of
France.
Work done and the master cylinder was charged at365EURO LESS 10% =328EUROAND 1
HOUR LABOUR AT42EURO, ALSO  FLUID 25EURO .
TOTAL COMPLETE 395EURO.
NOT TOO BAD WHEN YOU CONSIDER  UK COSTS I ASSUME.
I ALSO NEEDED A STOP DIODE  WHICH COST 56EURO.

WOW !!--THAT IS AN EXPENSIVE FUEL PUMP-I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT A FUEL PUMP WOULD BE
CHEAPER THAN A MASTER CYLINDER FOR A CITROEN C5.
LET'S HOPEMINE DOES NOT STOP!!!
I HAVE HAD THE CAR SINCE NEW AND APART FROM SERVICES AND NATURAL WEAR AND TEAR
PARTS REPLACED SUCH AS BRAKE PADS,DISCS AND TYRES AND PARTICLE FILTER EACH
50000MILES AS IT IS A 2.2 DIESEL ,THIS IS FIRST UNEXPECTED COST.
WHEN AN ENGLISH MECHANIC RETURNS TO GARAGE NEXT WEEK I WILL GET A TRANSLATION OF
WHAT WAS WRONG WITH THE MASTER CYLINDER.
THE HAYNES MANUAL SAID THEY DID NOT AT THE TIME OF PRINTING BELIEVE THEIR WAS A
REPAIR KIT FOR THE CYLINDER.

--- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, Richardomorris@... wrote:
>
>
>
> In a message dated 09/11/2009 21:07:23 GMT Standard Time,
> freecorrectwrong@... writes:
>
> THANKS  FOR THE JOKES BUT CAR SAFETY IS MORE IMPORTANT -ESPECIALLY
> BRAKES.P.S. I  ALREADY HAVE A BREAK---WELL THAT IS NAME FOR AN ESTATE IN 
FRANCE.
>
>
>
>
> When my C5's fuel pump died in France last month the garage would  only
> order the part (€700!!) after I said that yes I wanted them to order  and
fit
> it at that cost.
> I'd do as neil says and ask the dealer.
>
> ___________________________________________________________________________
> Richard  Morris
> C5 HPi Exclusive, 2CV6Spécial,  BertoneX1/9
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

In a message dated 09/11/2009 21:07:23 GMT Standard Time,
freecorrectwrong@... writes:

THANKS  FOR THE JOKES BUT CAR SAFETY IS MORE IMPORTANT -ESPECIALLY
BRAKES.P.S. I  ALREADY HAVE A BREAK---WELL THAT IS NAME FOR AN ESTATE IN 
FRANCE.




When my C5's fuel pump died in France last month the garage would  only
order the part (€700!!) after I said that yes I wanted them to order  and fit
it at that cost.
I'd do as neil says and ask the dealer.

___________________________________________________________________________
Richard  Morris
C5 HPi Exclusive, 2CV6Spécial,  BertoneX1/9



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

THANKS FOR THE JOKES BUT CAR SAFETY IS MORE IMPORTANT -ESPECIALLY BRAKES.P.S. I
ALREADY HAVE A BREAK---WELL THAT IS NAME FOR AN ESTATE IN FRANCE.

--- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, "CGAT" <cgat@...> wrote:
>
> YOU MIGHT GET BLED DRY
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: CGAT
>   To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:18 PM
>   Subject: Re: [C5-L] Re: brake liquid level low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!---help
please.
>
>
>
>   MAYBE THEY'LL GIVE YOU A PRICE BRAKE :)
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: freecorrectwrong
>   To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:09 PM
>   Subject: [C5-L] Re: brake liquid level low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!---help please.
>
>   MY CAR IS IN GARAGE FOR 4TH VISIT AS BRAKE FLUID IS BEING LOST SOMEWHERE AND
THEY HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO FIND WHERE FROM .I SAW THEM AT LAST STRIPPING OUT THE
MASTER CYLINDER WHICH THEY STATE HAS A DEFECT AND IT MAY HAVE TO BE CHANGED BY A
COMPLETE NEW UNIT AS THERE IS NO REPAIR KITS ACCORDING TO THE HAYNES
MANUAL.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>   I RETURN TOMORROW TO COLLECT IT.
>   WHAT IS LABOUR TIME FOR SUCH A JOB AND I ASSUME TO BLEED THE SYSTEM SO I AT
LEAST DO NOT GET SCREWED!. SOME ONE SAID ON C5 DATA DISC THAT IT IS R&I 1.O
HOUR.
>   -WHAT DOES THE R AND I STAND FOR?? REPAIR AND INSPECT???
>
>   THANKS --
>
>   P.S.ANY IDEA ON COST OF NEW CYLINDER ALSO??
>   THANKS.
>
>   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

YOU MIGHT GET BLED DRY
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: CGAT
   To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:18 PM
   Subject: Re: [C5-L] Re: brake liquid level low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!---help
please.



   MAYBE THEY'LL GIVE YOU A PRICE BRAKE :)

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: freecorrectwrong
   To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:09 PM
   Subject: [C5-L] Re: brake liquid level low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!---help please.

   MY CAR IS IN GARAGE FOR 4TH VISIT AS BRAKE FLUID IS BEING LOST SOMEWHERE AND
THEY HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO FIND WHERE FROM .I SAW THEM AT LAST STRIPPING OUT THE
MASTER CYLINDER WHICH THEY STATE HAS A DEFECT AND IT MAY HAVE TO BE CHANGED BY A
COMPLETE NEW UNIT AS THERE IS NO REPAIR KITS ACCORDING TO THE HAYNES
MANUAL.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
   I RETURN TOMORROW TO COLLECT IT.
   WHAT IS LABOUR TIME FOR SUCH A JOB AND I ASSUME TO BLEED THE SYSTEM SO I AT
LEAST DO NOT GET SCREWED!. SOME ONE SAID ON C5 DATA DISC THAT IT IS R&I 1.O
HOUR.
   -WHAT DOES THE R AND I STAND FOR?? REPAIR AND INSPECT???

   THANKS --

   P.S.ANY IDEA ON COST OF NEW CYLINDER ALSO??
   THANKS.

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

MAYBE THEY'LL GIVE YOU A PRICE BRAKE :)

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: freecorrectwrong
   To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:09 PM
   Subject: [C5-L] Re: brake liquid level low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!---help please.





   MY CAR IS IN GARAGE FOR 4TH VISIT AS BRAKE FLUID IS BEING LOST SOMEWHERE AND
THEY HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO FIND WHERE FROM .I SAW THEM AT LAST STRIPPING OUT THE
MASTER CYLINDER WHICH THEY STATE HAS A DEFECT AND IT MAY HAVE TO BE CHANGED BY A
COMPLETE NEW UNIT AS THERE IS NO REPAIR KITS ACCORDING TO THE HAYNES
MANUAL.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
   I RETURN TOMORROW TO COLLECT IT.
   WHAT IS LABOUR TIME FOR SUCH A JOB AND I ASSUME TO BLEED THE SYSTEM SO I AT
LEAST DO NOT GET SCREWED!. SOME ONE SAID ON C5 DATA DISC THAT IT IS R&I 1.O
HOUR.
   -WHAT DOES THE R AND I STAND FOR?? REPAIR AND INSPECT???

   THANKS --

   P.S.ANY IDEA ON COST OF NEW CYLINDER ALSO??
   THANKS.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

SHOULDN'T YOU GET THE PRICE BEFORE GIVING THE OK FOR THE WORK???


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: CGAT
   To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:15 PM
   Subject: Re: [C5-L] Re: brake liquid level low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!---help
please.



   ASK THE DEALER?

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: freecorrectwrong
   To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:09 PM
   Subject: [C5-L] Re: brake liquid level low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!---help please.

   MY CAR IS IN GARAGE FOR 4TH VISIT AS BRAKE FLUID IS BEING LOST SOMEWHERE AND
THEY HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO FIND WHERE FROM .I SAW THEM AT LAST STRIPPING OUT THE
MASTER CYLINDER WHICH THEY STATE HAS A DEFECT AND IT MAY HAVE TO BE CHANGED BY A
COMPLETE NEW UNIT AS THERE IS NO REPAIR KITS ACCORDING TO THE HAYNES
MANUAL.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
   I RETURN TOMORROW TO COLLECT IT.
   WHAT IS LABOUR TIME FOR SUCH A JOB AND I ASSUME TO BLEED THE SYSTEM SO I AT
LEAST DO NOT GET SCREWED!. SOME ONE SAID ON C5 DATA DISC THAT IT IS R&I 1.O
HOUR.
   -WHAT DOES THE R AND I STAND FOR?? REPAIR AND INSPECT???

   THANKS --

   P.S.ANY IDEA ON COST OF NEW CYLINDER ALSO??
   THANKS.

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

ASK THE DEALER?


   ----- Original Message -----
   From: freecorrectwrong
   To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:09 PM
   Subject: [C5-L] Re: brake liquid level low!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!---help please.





   MY CAR IS IN GARAGE FOR 4TH VISIT AS BRAKE FLUID IS BEING LOST SOMEWHERE AND
THEY HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO FIND WHERE FROM .I SAW THEM AT LAST STRIPPING OUT THE
MASTER CYLINDER WHICH THEY STATE HAS A DEFECT AND IT MAY HAVE TO BE CHANGED BY A
COMPLETE NEW UNIT AS THERE IS NO REPAIR KITS ACCORDING TO THE HAYNES
MANUAL.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
   I RETURN TOMORROW TO COLLECT IT.
   WHAT IS LABOUR TIME FOR SUCH A JOB AND I ASSUME TO BLEED THE SYSTEM SO I AT
LEAST DO NOT GET SCREWED!. SOME ONE SAID ON C5 DATA DISC THAT IT IS R&I 1.O
HOUR.
   -WHAT DOES THE R AND I STAND FOR?? REPAIR AND INSPECT???

   THANKS --

   P.S.ANY IDEA ON COST OF NEW CYLINDER ALSO??
   THANKS.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

MY CAR IS IN GARAGE FOR 4TH VISIT AS BRAKE FLUID IS BEING LOST SOMEWHERE AND
THEY HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO FIND WHERE FROM .I SAW THEM AT LAST STRIPPING OUT THE
MASTER CYLINDER WHICH THEY STATE HAS A DEFECT AND IT MAY HAVE TO BE CHANGED BY A
COMPLETE NEW UNIT AS THERE IS NO REPAIR KITS ACCORDING TO THE  HAYNES
MANUAL.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I RETURN TOMORROW TO COLLECT IT.
WHAT IS LABOUR TIME FOR SUCH A JOB AND I ASSUME TO BLEED THE SYSTEM SO I AT
LEAST DO NOT GET SCREWED!. SOME ONE SAID ON C5 DATA DISC   THAT IT IS R&I 1.O
HOUR.
-WHAT DOES THE R AND I STAND FOR??      REPAIR AND INSPECT???

THANKS --

P.S.ANY IDEA ON COST OF NEW CYLINDER ALSO??
THANKS.

except that both the trailing arm and the caliper are aluminium alloy.
the actual corrosion mechanism must be a bit more complex than a simple galvanic
reaction.

other than that, there are some good DIY tricks in this thread.

regards
Paul

--- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, Tony Day <tonyd@...> wrote:

> > Alloy caliper bolted to steel suspension arm, with no gasket spells
> > corrosion between the 2 parts, so powerful it will cause the caliper to
> > misalign, causing pads to wear at an angle and if really severe cause the
> > caliper to touch the disc.
> >

On Sunday 08 November 2009 22:40:01 Bill.Sparnon2l wrote:
> Hi everyone, I have done this job a few times here is my experience.
>
> Alloy caliper bolted to steel suspension arm, with no gasket spells
> corrosion between the 2 parts, so powerful it will cause the caliper to
> misalign, causing pads to wear at an angle and if really severe cause the
> caliper to touch the disc.
>
>
>
> Best to replace pads and disc at this stage, but you have to sort out the
> corrosion between caliper and suspension arm.
>
>
>
> The two bolts will be viciously tight but can be removed by working in and
> out, trying to get a little wd40 in the threads if you can, use a breaker
> bar and an impact socket.
>
>
>
> You can pull the caliper away from the arm when bolts removed but do the
> job right and detach the brake line. Bleeed later.
>
>
>
> The corrosion is best chipped off with a small chisel, don't bother trying
> to rub it away, if you chip if off it comes off like a scab YUK
>
>
>
> Ream out the caliper bolt holes so the bolts will go back in, I used copper
> grease.
>
>
>
> NB keep the caliper together when removed or it will split, use a g clamp
> or similar, if it splits, no worry, but make sure you renew the rubber o
> ring with the right o ring of theright size and construction.   Any
> hydraulic company will supply.
>
>
>
> Next time if refit a caliper I will introduce a gasket between caliper and
> suspension arm to try and stop corrosion.
>
>
>
> It really is a nasty bit of design by citroen.
>
>
>
> Let me know if you want any further info.
>
>
>
> bill

The corrosion is caused by an electroylytic action between the steel and
alloy, in theory copper slip containing copper which is a conductor could
make the problem worse.
This problem is well known in the marine world and there is a product called
Durolac which is used as a sealant between steel and alloy bits on boats
available from Marine Chandlers, this should work well applied between the
caliper and hub and on the bolt threads.
Citroen also currently recommend coating the faces with a sealant can't
remember what it's called though.
I have also heard of people making a heavy gauge polythene gasket to fit
between the caliper and hub. Basically anything that will act as an
electrical insulator under all normal climatic conditions should work, paper
may not be so good if it can take up moisture, particularly salty moisture
and then there could be conduction through the paper.
As an objective you are trying to make the caliper electrically insulated from
the hub.

tonyd

Hi everyone, I have done this job a few times here is my experience.

Alloy caliper bolted to steel suspension arm, with no gasket spells
corrosion between the 2 parts, so powerful it will cause the caliper to
misalign, causing pads to wear at an angle and if really severe cause the
caliper to touch the disc.



Best to replace pads and disc at this stage, but you have to sort out the
corrosion between caliper and suspension arm.



The two bolts will be viciously tight but can be removed by working in and
out, trying to get a little wd40 in the threads if you can, use a breaker
bar and an impact socket.



You can pull the caliper away from the arm when bolts removed but do the job
right and detach the brake line. Bleeed later.



The corrosion is best chipped off with a small chisel, don't bother trying
to rub it away, if you chip if off it comes off like a scab YUK



Ream out the caliper bolt holes so the bolts will go back in, I used copper
grease.



NB keep the caliper together when removed or it will split, use a g clamp or
similar, if it splits, no worry, but make sure you renew the rubber o ring
with the right o ring of theright size and construction.   Any hydraulic
company will supply.



Next time if refit a caliper I will introduce a gasket between caliper and
suspension arm to try and stop corrosion.



It really is a nasty bit of design by citroen.



Let me know if you want any further info.



bill

   _____

From: C5-L@yahoogroups.com [mailto:C5-L@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Yuting
Wan
Sent: 08 November 2009 09:33
To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [C5-L] Re: 2002 C5 2.2 HDI Rear Disc and pad change





The way to remove the Loctited screws is to heat them up with a high
power soldering iron first and then remove them. I'm surprised copper
grease is still being used to resolve the noise problem. In my C5
case, after returning from Citroen service, the copper grease effect
only lasts a few days, the noise comes back. The proper way to resolve
it is to smear polymer called brake quiet or a Rolls Royce invented
sealant called Hylermar. The polymer may be more effective as it's
thicker but you have to remove the pads to do it. The Hylermar is
easier as you can spray on to the gap between the pad and the
cylinder, but it lasts shorter as it's thinner. For the other make of
cars, the polymer has already been applied onto the brake pads before
hand by OEM.
Tim
On 08/11/2009, at 8:12 PM, johnduguk wrote:

> You're lucky the bolts came out. Sometimes they have to be drilled
> because they are put in with locktite + years of corrosion. Some
> guys pass a drill through the hole before replacing them to get rid
> of the loctite on the sides of the hole. The reason why the
> caliper is rubbing on the new disc is because a layer of corrosion
> has formed between the two differing metals. The steel of the arm
> and the alloy of the caliper. Use a scraper to remove the deposit
> from the caliper. It's quite hard. Afterwards smear with
> copperslip.
>
> By now one would think that Citroen would have stopped this problem
> arising, because it has been happening since 1988 on BXs and Xantias.
>
>
>
> --- In C5-L@yahoogroups. <mailto:C5-L%40yahoogroups.com> com, "clifftoff"
<clifftoff@...> wrote:
>>
>> What a nightmare! After recently buying the car, the rear nearside
>> wheel starting to make a metal rubbing noise. So i decided to take
>> off the wheel and check the brake pads. I found that they had worn
>> down to the metal! The disc was in a poor condition so bought 2 new
>> discs and pads.
>>
>> Anyone done this before??
>>
>> I finally managed to remove the caliper bolts after a few curse
>> words! took off the disc, cleaned up the area, greased and put the
>> new disc on.
>>
>> Then went to put on the caliper but not so easy! The caliper bolts
>> had to be knocked through with a hammer and to try and line up the
>> caliper inline to put the bolts through is a tricky job. Anyhows I
>> tighted up the caliper but it is catching the disc. It almost looks
>> as if there may have been gasket of somesort or spacer inbetween
>> the caliper and the vehicle. I say this because you loosen the
>> caliper a little and the disc spins freely. I ran Citroens parts
>> dept today to see if they list a part or whether he can see a
>> gasket on his drawing but he couldn't.
>>
>> Any ideas?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Frustrated Cliff with car up on axle stands!
>>
>
>
>
>
>



Internal Virus Database is out of date.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.423 / Virus Database: 270.14.40/2471 - Release Date: 10/31/09
07:53:00




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The way to remove the Loctited screws is to heat them up with a high
power soldering iron first and then remove them. I'm surprised copper
grease is still being used to resolve the noise problem. In my C5
case, after returning from Citroen service, the copper grease effect
only lasts a few days, the noise comes back. The proper way to resolve
it is to smear polymer called brake quiet or a Rolls Royce invented
sealant called Hylermar. The polymer may be more effective as it's
thicker but you have to remove the pads to do it. The Hylermar is
easier as you can spray on to the gap between the pad and the
cylinder, but it lasts shorter as it's thinner. For the other make of
cars, the polymer has already been applied onto the brake pads before
hand by OEM.
Tim
On 08/11/2009, at 8:12 PM, johnduguk wrote:

> You're lucky the bolts came out.   Sometimes they have to be drilled
> because they are put in with locktite + years of corrosion.   Some
> guys pass a drill through the hole before replacing them to get rid
> of the loctite on the sides of the hole.   The reason why the
> caliper is rubbing on the new disc is because a layer of corrosion
> has formed between the two differing metals.  The steel of the arm
> and the alloy of the caliper.   Use a scraper to remove the deposit
> from the caliper.   It's quite hard.   Afterwards smear with
> copperslip.
>
> By now one would think that Citroen would have stopped this problem
> arising, because it has been happening since 1988 on BXs and Xantias.
>
>
>
> --- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, "clifftoff" <clifftoff@...> wrote:
>>
>> What a nightmare! After recently buying the car, the rear nearside
>> wheel starting to make a metal rubbing noise. So i decided to take
>> off the wheel and check the brake pads. I found that they had worn
>> down to the metal! The disc was in a poor condition so bought 2 new
>> discs and pads.
>>
>> Anyone done this before??
>>
>> I finally managed to remove the caliper bolts after a few curse
>> words! took off the disc, cleaned up the area, greased and put the
>> new disc on.
>>
>> Then went to put on the caliper but not so easy! The caliper bolts
>> had to be knocked through with a hammer and to try and line up the
>> caliper inline to put the bolts through is a tricky job. Anyhows I
>> tighted up the caliper but it is catching the disc. It almost looks
>> as if there may have been gasket of somesort or spacer inbetween
>> the caliper and the vehicle. I say this because you loosen the
>> caliper a little and the disc spins freely. I ran Citroens parts
>> dept today to see if they list a part or whether he can see a
>> gasket on his drawing but he couldn't.
>>
>> Any ideas?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Frustrated Cliff with car up on axle stands!
>>
>
>
>
>
>

Hi,

I put a wire brush to all parts including this and scrubbed away a lot of dirt
and corrosio and then gave it a quick clean. I think i might have to put
something like a couple of washers or make a gasket to solve the problem. I am
yet to take off the off side to see if this is the same!

will keep posted

Cliff

--- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, John Smart <smartpeple@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Did you remove the corrosion that builds up between the caliper and the
suspension arm due to their being dissimilar metals?
>
> This jacks out the caliper and causes uneven pad wear and eventually the disc
to rub on the caliper.
>
> Some people have even had sufficient jacking for the wheel to rub on the
caliper.
>
> There is no gasket between the caliper and the suspension arm. However, I have
found the best cure/prevention for the corrosion is to fit a gasket of polythene
or similar to break the electrical circuit that causes the corrosion.
>
> The alternative of greasing etc to keep out moisture always seems to fail
after a time.
>
> There is a potential issue with temperature from the brakes and using a
plastic gasket, however after 50K miles  I have had no problems and gasket is
still as new.
>
>
> Regards
>
> John
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: clifftoff <clifftoff@...>
> To: C5-L@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sat, November 7, 2009 7:12:27 PM
> Subject: [C5-L] 2002 C5 2.2 HDI Rear Disc and pad change
>
>
> What a nightmare! After recently buying the car, the rear nearside wheel
starting to make a metal rubbing noise. So i decided to take off the wheel and
check the brake pads. I found that they had worn down to the metal! The disc was
in a poor condition so bought 2 new discs and pads.
>
> Anyone done this before??
>
> I finally managed to remove the caliper bolts after a few curse words! took
off the disc, cleaned up the area, greased and put the new disc on.
>
> Then went to put on the caliper but not so easy! The caliper bolts had to be
knocked through with a hammer and to try and line up the caliper inline to put
the bolts through is a tricky job. Anyhows I tighted up the caliper but it is
catching the disc. It almost looks as if there may have been gasket of somesort
or spacer inbetween the caliper and the vehicle. I say this because you loosen
the caliper a little and the disc spins freely. I ran Citroens parts dept today
to see if they list a part or whether he can see a gasket on his drawing but he
couldn't.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frustrated Cliff with car up on axle stands!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

You're lucky the bolts came out.   Sometimes they have to be drilled because
they are put in with locktite + years of corrosion.   Some guys pass a drill
through the hole before replacing them to get rid of the loctite on the sides of
the hole.   The reason why the caliper is rubbing on the new disc is because a
layer of corrosion has formed between the two differing metals.  The steel of
the arm and the alloy of the caliper.   Use a scraper to remove the deposit from
the caliper.   It's quite hard.   Afterwards smear with copperslip.

By now one would think that Citroen would have stopped this problem arising,
because it has been happening since 1988 on BXs and Xantias.



--- In C5-L@yahoogroups.com, "clifftoff" <clifftoff@...> wrote:
>
> What a nightmare! After recently buying the car, the rear nearside wheel
starting to make a metal rubbing noise. So i decided to take off the wheel and
check the brake pads. I found that they had worn down to the metal! The disc was
in a poor condition so bought 2 new discs and pads.
>
> Anyone done this before??
>
> I finally managed to remove the caliper bolts after a few curse words! took
off the disc, cleaned up the area, greased and put the new disc on.
>
> Then went to put on the caliper but not so easy! The caliper bolts had to be
knocked through with a hammer and to try and line up the caliper inline to put
the bolts through is a tricky job. Anyhows I tighted up the caliper but it is
catching the disc. It almost looks as if there may have been gasket of somesort
or spacer inbetween the caliper and the vehicle. I say this because you loosen
the caliper a little and the disc spins freely. I ran Citroens parts dept today
to see if they list a part or whether he can see a gasket on his drawing but he
couldn't.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frustrated Cliff with car up on axle stands!
>