I can take some pictures since mine are out and apart... I will try to do so
over the weekend.
.
DaveP

On Fri, Jul 10, 2009 at 5:13 PM, <whickey@...> wrote:

> Jim,
>
> Since I don't have any windows or the aluminum for a guide, could you
> give me a sketch of the placement of the sliders and the original size of
> the aluminum track? Is it just a single u channel and the sliders allow the
> window to pass or was it a double u? I can fabricate. but some rough
> sketches would be a help. Thanks in advance
>
> Tom
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Sibb
> To: C-Car@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 11:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [C-Car] Driver's window replacement advise needed
>
>
>
>
>
> Dave, I replaced all the windows in my car for less than that price! The
> biggest problem was finding the 3/16 plexi. Everyone had 1/4" and 1/8" but
> the 3/16" was hard to find around here.
> I did finally find it, I am not shure if it was plexi. or what, but it was
> UV rated to withstand sunlight. A half sheet, enough to make all four
> windows cost me $40. The material cuts very nice with a bandsaw, very little
> chipping,then finished to size with a belt sander,and polished the exposed
> edges with a buffing wheel.
> I had a lot of trouble trying to remove the aluminum strips but finally
> found the secret. Take a small propane torch and heat the strip, it will
> then pull off very easily.
> The touchy part is making and installing the guidance splines in the
> correct place. Again the material was the problem. The splines in my car are
> .080" thick. I solved this by running a scrap from the windows thru my
> thickness planer to the .080 desired thickness, then cut the strips to
> size.(if you dont have a planer you could start with some 1/8" material and
> sand it down.
> Taking the measurments from the old window, clamp a straight edge along
> the new one and apply acetone to the strip and lay it down against the
> straight edge. Acetone is the very best welding agent for this
> application,just be shure not to slop any on the new glass, as it will
> instantly and permanently mark the surface.
> As far as those expensive holes, Wow. This material drills beautifully,
> The only caution here is to back up the window with a smooth board to
> prevent chipping on breakthrough.
> My windows look great, and slide smoothly. I was even able to find an
> almost identical wetherstripping material at a shop that makes and repairs
> aluminum house windows and doors.
> Good luck with your project.
> Jim, in Quincy Ill.
>
>
>
> --- On Tue, 7/7/09, DaveP <dcpyatt@...> wrote:
>
> From: DaveP <dcpyatt@...>
> Subject: [C-Car] Driver's window replacement advise needed
> To: C-Car@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, July 7, 2009, 11:08 PM
>
> I took the broken driver's window to the glass shop today to get plexi
> cut.... it will be $45-50 to get the slider cut and edge-polished from a
> tracing they made of the passenger window. We will be drilling the two holes
> for the lock, as they said it would be $5 a hole. (slow and patient, I know)
>
> What I need to figure out is how to get the aluminum slider trim off of
> the old plexi and how to reattach it to the new window... we used super glue
> before for the thin plexi slider guide.
>
> Any ideas before we try something stupid?
>
> Also, does anyone have a tracing of the correct rear window on a
> Comuta-Car? Mine does not follow the shape of the seal at all, it is more of
> a trapezoid that one of the previous owners screwed to the body on the lower
> corners! She has been freed of those screws and the hatch swings freely
> again, albeit without a gas cylinder. (Plexi is a lot lighter and more
> flexible than auto plate glass)
>
> Thanks for your help!
> DaveP in Ohio
>
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